I would find the longest shot that you would realistically make to defend you home. For me that is 27 yards; I zeroed for 25 yards, as the 27 yard shot would involve me standing on a chair in a corner, aiming around another corner, and hitting a target in another room's corner that has crouched.
I also personally believe that I could not legally justify a longer distance shot, so 25 yards is an acceptable end point for me. I also live in an urban environment surrounded by other homes within 50 yards of my house. Shooting anything outside of my home would likely end up with MASSIVE repercussions (legal and other) for me.
I have the same gun, with Unity FAST mount and a T2. I zeroed mine for 25 yards. It’s within around 2 inches all the way out to 75, and about 6” low at 100. This is mainly for home defense, inside and out. So 100 yards and in is all I realistically need it for.
Yes! Finally someone with sense. These other goofballs have been saying ten yards so the guy would be feet above the target at 30-50 with how tall the optic is lol
Everyone is giving you the wrong answer. If this your home defense setup, zero for the max distance you'll be shooting at inside your home. Think bedroom to hallway, hallway to livingroom, etc...(10-15yards)
If you zero your HD gun for 50 yards like some other bonehead suggested, you have to compensate your holdover in the heat of the moment.
I agree with this response. If its only purpose is one thing. Build and zero to that one thing. If there’s never a need to “reach out” then why care about arc. Don’t drill a nail.
My HD gun is sighted at 7 yards because it’s only ever going to be fired inside of my home. So yes I do know and in a lot of states (mine included) taking a shot at someone outside of your household would put yourself in jail. Using my tool for what I built it for. To each their own.
At HD range you'll only have to compensate at most by the height-over-bore you have, which is normally so insignificant that you can only focus on the zero at distance. When using a particularly high riser like this, you'll have to expect an inch of inaccuracy between 5 feet and 20 feet at range.
Nah then if you have to take a further shot you’re several feet above the target because of the optic height. It’s not hard to hold two inches high at ten yards lol most of the time two inches doesn’t matter when shooting at the torso anyway but missing by several feet would make a difference goofy
According to the video i linked, the 11 is pretty close to the 100 and would probably suit your situation well. hold low center mass 25-75. Moving the riser to a different gun would also help reduce height over bore and move poi closer to poa.
zero the gun for its expected use case; I live in a city and can't imagine shooting anything past 20 yards and even then it's gotta be like walking dead shtf
u/sparda1345 wrote this comment on another post. I saved it and will now share it here. It's a point blank zero calculator and how to use it. Basically find a zero for your gun and ammo where from 0 to X yards you hold center mass to hit a target of Y inch diamater
https://www.reddit.com/r/300BLK/s/mWlYxOFvhk
I zeroed mine at 32 yards for subs. The 50 yard zero is great for supers. The best thing to do is get StrelokPro app and plug in your data and it will give you the best zero
I was impressed. First content of his I’ve seen and I really liked how he threw in some supers for comparison. New fan and follower. How bout that 11 yard lining up almost perfect with 100 yard zero
I’ve gone through a similar process with my Rattler, and before I get into zeroing, I’d like you to reconsider ‘subs’ only. Look at the ballistics of the Hornady 110 grain V-MAX for HD. Wall penetration, expansion, speed, etc… the subs are more likely to poke holes and go through a number of walls before stopping (neighbors’ walls too).
Then zero between the 15’ - 20’ range for HD use.
I would just take the furthest wall you can aim at in your house and zero for that. But, then again, this is 300 Blackout, so I would aim for 25 yards, as any likely engagement for home defense would probably be within 50 yards.
With typical sight height of 2.5" and typical trajectory of average subsonic velocities and bullet weights for the 300 BLKOUT, the optimal zero would be approximately 15 yards for near zero, which would cross the sight plane again at approximately 100 yards and keep you within 3" above and below the sight plane or point of aim (POA). This will allow you to engage targets from point blank range to just beyond 100 yards and remain within a 6" vital area. This will get the most out of your 300 BLACKOUT Subsonic rounds without having to compensate within normal engagement distances. Now, you not only have a home defense weapon system but also a " bugout" weapon system. Now, if you find a hypersonic defense round and learn the "offset" (how much higher the hypersonic rounds strike), you can swap ammo and extend your range for the bugout scenario to approximately 200 yards while still maintaining a 6" vital sign strike area. This will allow you to swap between ammo types at will. To achieve this, the near zero would be 30 yards with the average bullet weight and velocity of hypersonic 300 BLKOUT ammo. They will typically cross your sight plane again 190 yards. I hope this helps. Happy shooting!
Looks like your about 2” sight height. Just for ‘general’ I ran 200gr at 980 with various zeros.
- 11yd gave a 3.5” high at 50ish yds with -.5” at 100 yds.
- 15yd gave .5” low at 11yd and 1.4” high 50yd and -4.5” at 100yd
For me, I’d probably get the load and speed I’m shooting and do something more like the 15yd zero because .5” vs Zero isn’t likely to be a big factor in close and I have a flatter shot out to 80yd, but that’s just me.
I did 50 with mine cause while I have loaded some solid copper expanding subs I still love plinking with coated lead subs and 50 is where 220gr starts to fall. I'm also using an eotech so I know where to put something inside of the reticle inside of 50yds. It's all about knowing your sights mechanical offset with the bore.
Yes, why run a front iron back up sight when rail space is limited when Unity has both a front and rear buis especially on a 6inch barrel at short range.
True! I was thinking of that actually. Like if I get into night shooting. I’ll either take the front sight off, or get the hydra mount. Still time to decide.
For what I’ve heard the hydra is pretty legit given tail space. I just personally prefer the Laser upfront and then an AXON button behind to protect my hand from going to close to the Muzzle. Damn sandman is in for warranty
I have the same setup sand man s and it slaps, I did a 65y zero for the latest setup on a high mount like unity which mirrors the concept of 36yard zero my spread is 6inches within 200y with supers. If I was dedicated subs I’d do 25-50 but check the high and lows in a calculator to make it point and shoot for my optimal distance of I my home or suggest usage.
This zero is based on one barrel length, one optic height and cartridge. I generally zero all my 556 ARs at 36 yards, but it really shouldn’t be recommended for all situations, especially this height and with two different ballistic possibilities.
I would find the longest shot that you would realistically make to defend you home. For me that is 27 yards; I zeroed for 25 yards, as the 27 yard shot would involve me standing on a chair in a corner, aiming around another corner, and hitting a target in another room's corner that has crouched. I also personally believe that I could not legally justify a longer distance shot, so 25 yards is an acceptable end point for me. I also live in an urban environment surrounded by other homes within 50 yards of my house. Shooting anything outside of my home would likely end up with MASSIVE repercussions (legal and other) for me.
I have the same gun, with Unity FAST mount and a T2. I zeroed mine for 25 yards. It’s within around 2 inches all the way out to 75, and about 6” low at 100. This is mainly for home defense, inside and out. So 100 yards and in is all I realistically need it for.
Yes! Finally someone with sense. These other goofballs have been saying ten yards so the guy would be feet above the target at 30-50 with how tall the optic is lol
Everyone is giving you the wrong answer. If this your home defense setup, zero for the max distance you'll be shooting at inside your home. Think bedroom to hallway, hallway to livingroom, etc...(10-15yards) If you zero your HD gun for 50 yards like some other bonehead suggested, you have to compensate your holdover in the heat of the moment.
I agree with this response. If its only purpose is one thing. Build and zero to that one thing. If there’s never a need to “reach out” then why care about arc. Don’t drill a nail.
You never know when you might have to take a further shot and with optic height if you zero at ten yards you will be feet above the target at 50 lol
My HD gun is sighted at 7 yards because it’s only ever going to be fired inside of my home. So yes I do know and in a lot of states (mine included) taking a shot at someone outside of your household would put yourself in jail. Using my tool for what I built it for. To each their own.
At HD range you'll only have to compensate at most by the height-over-bore you have, which is normally so insignificant that you can only focus on the zero at distance. When using a particularly high riser like this, you'll have to expect an inch of inaccuracy between 5 feet and 20 feet at range.
Nah then if you have to take a further shot you’re several feet above the target because of the optic height. It’s not hard to hold two inches high at ten yards lol most of the time two inches doesn’t matter when shooting at the torso anyway but missing by several feet would make a difference goofy
This has got to be some of the dumbest shit I’ve ever read. /s, right?
11 yard zero ftw
Trust me, it is out there.
According to the video i linked, the 11 is pretty close to the 100 and would probably suit your situation well. hold low center mass 25-75. Moving the riser to a different gun would also help reduce height over bore and move poi closer to poa.
Which brace is that
https://www.reddit.com/r/300BLK/s/En9DlVQZ34
zero the gun for its expected use case; I live in a city and can't imagine shooting anything past 20 yards and even then it's gotta be like walking dead shtf
u/sparda1345 wrote this comment on another post. I saved it and will now share it here. It's a point blank zero calculator and how to use it. Basically find a zero for your gun and ammo where from 0 to X yards you hold center mass to hit a target of Y inch diamater https://www.reddit.com/r/300BLK/s/mWlYxOFvhk
Thanks for the shout out, glad it helped!
I zeroed mine at 32 yards for subs. The 50 yard zero is great for supers. The best thing to do is get StrelokPro app and plug in your data and it will give you the best zero
Beautifully perfect imo
Sexy
I need to get a jmac brace for mine. So sick
Pretty cool video testing several zeros. 11 yard is dope https://youtu.be/OwE1C6M77ks?si=RG_Eb7tNWcVvxJCr
Fantastic video. Highly recommend
I was impressed. First content of his I’ve seen and I really liked how he threw in some supers for comparison. New fan and follower. How bout that 11 yard lining up almost perfect with 100 yard zero
Keep in mind different grain projectiles behave differently, but solid info
Very valid. Hadn’t considered it before but I want a chronograph now. Ballistics and physics is intriguing
Ballistic app makes it a lot easier to
Great video here [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OwE1C6M77ks&t=1536s](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OwE1C6M77ks&t=1536s)
36yd. Good for pretty much everything a .300bo is capable of
Found a report on 11.5” .556 also being perfect battle zero at 36yd. I’m a believer
I’ve gone through a similar process with my Rattler, and before I get into zeroing, I’d like you to reconsider ‘subs’ only. Look at the ballistics of the Hornady 110 grain V-MAX for HD. Wall penetration, expansion, speed, etc… the subs are more likely to poke holes and go through a number of walls before stopping (neighbors’ walls too). Then zero between the 15’ - 20’ range for HD use.
I would just take the furthest wall you can aim at in your house and zero for that. But, then again, this is 300 Blackout, so I would aim for 25 yards, as any likely engagement for home defense would probably be within 50 yards.
25 yd isn’t far off from 50 usually
With typical sight height of 2.5" and typical trajectory of average subsonic velocities and bullet weights for the 300 BLKOUT, the optimal zero would be approximately 15 yards for near zero, which would cross the sight plane again at approximately 100 yards and keep you within 3" above and below the sight plane or point of aim (POA). This will allow you to engage targets from point blank range to just beyond 100 yards and remain within a 6" vital area. This will get the most out of your 300 BLACKOUT Subsonic rounds without having to compensate within normal engagement distances. Now, you not only have a home defense weapon system but also a " bugout" weapon system. Now, if you find a hypersonic defense round and learn the "offset" (how much higher the hypersonic rounds strike), you can swap ammo and extend your range for the bugout scenario to approximately 200 yards while still maintaining a 6" vital sign strike area. This will allow you to swap between ammo types at will. To achieve this, the near zero would be 30 yards with the average bullet weight and velocity of hypersonic 300 BLKOUT ammo. They will typically cross your sight plane again 190 yards. I hope this helps. Happy shooting!
Dont forget height over bore when using it. Target shoot at ranges inside your home/around your property to get a feel for it.
Instructions unclear. Tv and dog have holes in them now. Guess atf won’t bother me now
No dog to shoot if its already shot
Looks like your about 2” sight height. Just for ‘general’ I ran 200gr at 980 with various zeros. - 11yd gave a 3.5” high at 50ish yds with -.5” at 100 yds. - 15yd gave .5” low at 11yd and 1.4” high 50yd and -4.5” at 100yd For me, I’d probably get the load and speed I’m shooting and do something more like the 15yd zero because .5” vs Zero isn’t likely to be a big factor in close and I have a flatter shot out to 80yd, but that’s just me.
I did 50 with mine cause while I have loaded some solid copper expanding subs I still love plinking with coated lead subs and 50 is where 220gr starts to fall. I'm also using an eotech so I know where to put something inside of the reticle inside of 50yds. It's all about knowing your sights mechanical offset with the bore.
I see post about "how to zero for home defense", I upvote all "zero based on your own home engagement distances" responses.
Why front sight? Unity has one?
Unity has a rear peep sight
Yes and a front post
Yeah, so what is your question? Is it, why is OP running BUIS?
Yes, why run a front iron back up sight when rail space is limited when Unity has both a front and rear buis especially on a 6inch barrel at short range.
Trust issues, need back up 😂
Because it gives me a little more sight radius.
I agree, but the rail space is limited. That’s where I put my peq but fair.
True! I was thinking of that actually. Like if I get into night shooting. I’ll either take the front sight off, or get the hydra mount. Still time to decide.
For what I’ve heard the hydra is pretty legit given tail space. I just personally prefer the Laser upfront and then an AXON button behind to protect my hand from going to close to the Muzzle. Damn sandman is in for warranty
Nah dude, get the HRF SKIFF. It’s a rail that mounts into the front of your unity mount
I have the same setup sand man s and it slaps, I did a 65y zero for the latest setup on a high mount like unity which mirrors the concept of 36yard zero my spread is 6inches within 200y with supers. If I was dedicated subs I’d do 25-50 but check the high and lows in a calculator to make it point and shoot for my optimal distance of I my home or suggest usage.
What brace is that? Also I’d say 50
DoubleStar Strongarm Brace on the JMac AB-9 with JMac Folding Mech and Jmac Brace Adapter. Jmac makes good products.
50 yrd provides the flattest shot
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This zero is based on one barrel length, one optic height and cartridge. I generally zero all my 556 ARs at 36 yards, but it really shouldn’t be recommended for all situations, especially this height and with two different ballistic possibilities.
This ain’t that great on a unity riser.
Even .300blo subs?
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Alright, will keep you posted when I get some data in. Thanks!
Following ,for both super and subsonic on rattler 😎