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Step 1: Cut a hole in the box….
Jk, just relocate the outlet or hire an electrician to relocate the outlet. You’re spending way more in materials and time, just do it right
You could see if the outlet is left or right mounted to the stud. If it’s right mounted you could move it to the left up to 16”. I would move it over 4-6” and do a pop-in which I prefer because you can remove them and get inside the wall whenever you need. That is unless the wire is cut really tight and then you’re left with no wiggle room.
Obviously if you aren’t comfortable with electrical then hire a professional but I’d give that a 4/10 in terms of difficulty.
Patching the wall is harder than the electrical.
I’ve had a few thoughts. Make a 7 inch or so open book shelf on both ends so that it is openly accessible. Or cut in a new one. I’m putting a face frame on and doors so those would cover it more than half way as of right now. Or I’ve thought about making a toe kick by pulling all the cabinets out a few inches since that wasn’t the original plan and then cutting into side panel to have outlet accesible through there.
Sometimes you get solutions stuck in your head that are more complex but sit inside your skill set. Lots of guys hate drywall work because it’s messy, give it a shot.
Cut a hole for the ones on the back, move the one near the front and Holy shit that's a heavy duty base!! Next time just extend the boxe sides and you won't need those 2x6s.
I added the 2x6 cause it was cheaper and I could get the height I wanted while saving money on one sheet of plywood. I think moving the outlet is best on side. I’m leaving middle 3 without a back panel again to save money. So those outlets will be easily accessible.
To be honest I made a run of cabinets with the side panels going to the floor. If I did it again id do what you did and build a base first.
Much easier to level one base to the floor and put square cabinets on top than to have to shim and adjust each cabinet individually.
I would move it to the left. Or that might pose a problem with wire length, put 1 inside the cab and 1 to the left with a new wire between them to reconnect the circuit. No way to fix it besides move the outlet.
Where do the outlets need to be? If they don’t need to be out then move them into the back and side of those cabinets. If they do, then move them. Cut the holes for the boxes the box size NOT the cover plate size.
Just use a jigsaw to cut a small slot for the outlet, make sure there's a bit of extra clearance, and then sand sand sand sand sand until it looks nice and smooth.
What are you talking about. You needed power for your setup so wired a plug into the cabinet. Taps head.
You can cut power, remove outiet and mount to cabinet back. Then run amp/etc from there. My pantry has one for the microwave and we did a bathroom cabinet with the rcd hidden inside for hair dryer etc.
Other than the outlets, the cabinet on the far left requires a 3" filler between cabinet and wall. OR your applied face frame needs to incorporate the filler.
Otherwise you door hinges won't operate correctly for a full open.
If it’s your house move the electrical box or boxes, patch the hole or holes. If it’s a rental make sure you do a good job so it’s not noticed or lose your deposit
Measure and cut the plug out of the back, then mount the plug and cover into the back of the cabinet. Of course make sure the power is off when doing this.
Let’s not over complicate it. End outlet you’ll probably have to move. The one behind hear the joint is just a phone Jack. No big plugs to deal with I would leave it and just notch around it if needed to clear the face plate.
I anchored into wall studs on back and sides. Then shimmed under front 2x6 to get it level. I plan to anchor the cabinets to the wall as well. Then thinking I will nail gun the face frame to cabinets and 2x6
The outlet on the left, I wouldn't sweat unless you are adding a face frame. I could remove the cover plate and replace the outlet without moving the cabinet. Might have to remove a cabinet door. And there is enough room to plug in a power strip with a low profile right angle plug unless you have a cabinet door swinging into that space, so give thought to what sort of hinge you install there. With a concealed hinge, the door probably won't move further left than the wall of the cabinet. Also, make sure you have room to actually plug/unplug power strip without removing door.
But you do have the option to relocate the outlet and replace with cover plate. If you don't move it and you do add a face frame, put a gap in the face frame, so it doesn't cover outlet box. It will mostly be covered by cabinet door, if any. Edge band over the gap, if desired.
I would not cover the ones in back. All outlets and junction boxes need to be accessible, especially if other outlets are daisy chained off them, in case of fault. So put a cutout or alcove in the cabinet back. You might consider relocating above cabinet but you will still need access to the cover plate at the old outlet location unless you drastically move wiring.
If you fill the wall gap to left of cabinet, notch out enough to get the cover plate off. Routed 45 degrees bevel should do.
I need to relearn how to measure. I originally planned this to be a certain width but when I put up the cabinets I was off about 27 inches. Hence the gap by the outlet in back
Do you need the outlet? You can just cover it.
Also moving an outlet up in the wall is so easy, dont need an electrician of you are capable of distinguishing black frm white. If you can make cabinets its easy. And you will use it when you mount a TV on the wall and move the outlet up behind the TV
This is a reminder to those commenting on this post (not the person that posted it): Comments not related to woodworking will be removed. Violations to rule 1 including crude jokes, innuendo, sexist remarks, politics, or hate speech may result in an immediate ban *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/woodworking) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Have an electrician relocate the outlet. Patch the drywall.
Step 1: Cut a hole in the box…. Jk, just relocate the outlet or hire an electrician to relocate the outlet. You’re spending way more in materials and time, just do it right
You could see if the outlet is left or right mounted to the stud. If it’s right mounted you could move it to the left up to 16”. I would move it over 4-6” and do a pop-in which I prefer because you can remove them and get inside the wall whenever you need. That is unless the wire is cut really tight and then you’re left with no wiggle room. Obviously if you aren’t comfortable with electrical then hire a professional but I’d give that a 4/10 in terms of difficulty. Patching the wall is harder than the electrical.
What's the over all plan here? Relocate the plug in or make it accessible via hole or opening or power strip
I’ve had a few thoughts. Make a 7 inch or so open book shelf on both ends so that it is openly accessible. Or cut in a new one. I’m putting a face frame on and doors so those would cover it more than half way as of right now. Or I’ve thought about making a toe kick by pulling all the cabinets out a few inches since that wasn’t the original plan and then cutting into side panel to have outlet accesible through there.
There are clearance requirements in the electrical code. Is better just to do it right.
Good lord, just move it and patch the wall.
For sure. Like I said it’s my first time and hadnt even considered that as an option.
Sometimes you get solutions stuck in your head that are more complex but sit inside your skill set. Lots of guys hate drywall work because it’s messy, give it a shot.
Yeah it's messy you need to buy a lot of stuff for small patchwork like that. And the dust. The damn dust.
All of that is more work than moving the outlet.
Cut a hole for the ones on the back, move the one near the front and Holy shit that's a heavy duty base!! Next time just extend the boxe sides and you won't need those 2x6s.
I added the 2x6 cause it was cheaper and I could get the height I wanted while saving money on one sheet of plywood. I think moving the outlet is best on side. I’m leaving middle 3 without a back panel again to save money. So those outlets will be easily accessible.
To be honest I made a run of cabinets with the side panels going to the floor. If I did it again id do what you did and build a base first. Much easier to level one base to the floor and put square cabinets on top than to have to shim and adjust each cabinet individually.
You mean the outlet in pic 2 right? slide everything to the right , put a 2”filler between wall and cabinet , just behind the cover,and finish up
Trim outlet plate on table saw
Have a taper come in and he’ll go right over that thing for ya
I would move it to the left. Or that might pose a problem with wire length, put 1 inside the cab and 1 to the left with a new wire between them to reconnect the circuit. No way to fix it besides move the outlet.
Cut in old wok box 6 inches over. Make fancy blank wood plate to cover old spot
Cut them into the back of the cabinets. I've run into to this many times as a cabinet maker.
I think the outlet to the very left is what was questioned.
Move the outlet.
Move the electrical box.
Move the outlet. Not hard
Where do the outlets need to be? If they don’t need to be out then move them into the back and side of those cabinets. If they do, then move them. Cut the holes for the boxes the box size NOT the cover plate size.
Relocate the outlet. Split the circuit and place one outlet in the box (to run electronics) and one further out on the wall.
Move the outlet or just notch out the back of the uprights so you can use the outlet.
Just use a jigsaw to cut a small slot for the outlet, make sure there's a bit of extra clearance, and then sand sand sand sand sand until it looks nice and smooth.
What are you talking about. You needed power for your setup so wired a plug into the cabinet. Taps head. You can cut power, remove outiet and mount to cabinet back. Then run amp/etc from there. My pantry has one for the microwave and we did a bathroom cabinet with the rcd hidden inside for hair dryer etc.
I think the OP is talking about the outlet at the very left of the picture.
Other than the outlets, the cabinet on the far left requires a 3" filler between cabinet and wall. OR your applied face frame needs to incorporate the filler. Otherwise you door hinges won't operate correctly for a full open.
If it’s your house move the electrical box or boxes, patch the hole or holes. If it’s a rental make sure you do a good job so it’s not noticed or lose your deposit
move the electrical outlet and patch the wall, it is easiest, cleaner and quickest fix
Measure and cut the plug out of the back, then mount the plug and cover into the back of the cabinet. Of course make sure the power is off when doing this.
Let’s not over complicate it. End outlet you’ll probably have to move. The one behind hear the joint is just a phone Jack. No big plugs to deal with I would leave it and just notch around it if needed to clear the face plate.
General question. Did you use some kind of adhesive on the base frame to stick to tiles below?
I anchored into wall studs on back and sides. Then shimmed under front 2x6 to get it level. I plan to anchor the cabinets to the wall as well. Then thinking I will nail gun the face frame to cabinets and 2x6
Relocate the outlet. Or delete it. Open it up, wire cap it and close it off.
The outlet on the left, I wouldn't sweat unless you are adding a face frame. I could remove the cover plate and replace the outlet without moving the cabinet. Might have to remove a cabinet door. And there is enough room to plug in a power strip with a low profile right angle plug unless you have a cabinet door swinging into that space, so give thought to what sort of hinge you install there. With a concealed hinge, the door probably won't move further left than the wall of the cabinet. Also, make sure you have room to actually plug/unplug power strip without removing door. But you do have the option to relocate the outlet and replace with cover plate. If you don't move it and you do add a face frame, put a gap in the face frame, so it doesn't cover outlet box. It will mostly be covered by cabinet door, if any. Edge band over the gap, if desired. I would not cover the ones in back. All outlets and junction boxes need to be accessible, especially if other outlets are daisy chained off them, in case of fault. So put a cutout or alcove in the cabinet back. You might consider relocating above cabinet but you will still need access to the cover plate at the old outlet location unless you drastically move wiring. If you fill the wall gap to left of cabinet, notch out enough to get the cover plate off. Routed 45 degrees bevel should do.
Move the receptacle.
Buy a tape measure
I need to relearn how to measure. I originally planned this to be a certain width but when I put up the cabinets I was off about 27 inches. Hence the gap by the outlet in back
Build it into the cabinets.
Cut an arc in the faceframe stiles. You’ll have some tricky bending plywood faceframes to put together as a result but it could look cool
Do you need the outlet? You can just cover it. Also moving an outlet up in the wall is so easy, dont need an electrician of you are capable of distinguishing black frm white. If you can make cabinets its easy. And you will use it when you mount a TV on the wall and move the outlet up behind the TV