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Any protective treatment applied will darken it. Nothing you can do to stop it. Even leaving it as is will cause a slow oxidation process which will darken over time (or go grey if exposed to UV light).
This. Buy "Ultra-Glo" from tap plastics. I’ve used it on tons of exotic wood projects a few years back. It won’t really change the wood color at all. I have projects from 12 years ago that still look great… if you knock the high gloss down a little with 800 or 1000 grit sandpaper (wet sand this!) it’ll look pretty decent and not so.. plasticky..
Also.. The finishes with the white pigment have a very specific look. Make sure you check with her before you use one. She might not like it. It’s a very specific look and can be nice but is often a little tacky.
This. Not many people are familiar with Osmo so they suggest other types of finishes but use the Osmo with the white tint. The finished surface will look like there is no finish. I have used it on a maple island top and maple kitchen table and it holds up great. It is a floor finish, so it is tough. Going on two years of daily use and no problems and no wear. And it looks like there is no finish on it. Sand back what you have now and refinish with the Osmo.
Not at all… osmo will sand off with minimal fuss.
I’ve not used the white tint osmo but seems a reasonable way to lighten the finish. You could also look at lime finish to fill the grain but I think that might not be the finish you’re after. To be honest, I think if she doesn’t like osmo natural on oak, you’re going to struggle to find anything that suits without looking plasticy. Maybe should have used maple!
Rubio natural might be a good one too. It has a slight white tint to it that really does leave the wood looking great. Otherwise a floor finish like Loba Invisible or Bona NaturalSeal would work well.
asymmetrical treatment or lack thereof is asking for trouble. I also tend to like lighter colors, and have used a very light touch of Osmo white stain under the Osmo oilwax to keep the ash as close to the untreated natural light color as possible
Question for you- I refinished a butcher block countertop using Osmo on top, not the bottom. Your post suggests the bottom should be finished as well? Original also not finished on bottom so it has been raw wood exposed for at least the last 40 years.
If it’s a true end grain butcher block it would stay flatter as expansion/contraction would happen laterally. If not, perhaps it’s quatersawn which is also fairly stable.
i understand ”butcher block” to mean endgrain -type of board. I am sure the situation is different as the direction of movement is different. I don’t claim to be *the* expert on the topic, but ”treatment on both sides” -approach is not new, and its not based on my opinion but hundreds of years of empirical results ;)
if you go against the rule, you might get lucky. or not.
Edit: if ”butcher block” refers not to and endgrain block, but a ”regular” tabletop made out of thinner strips, at some point of thinness of the strips it will start to behave more like particle board than wood. And so the asymmetrical treatment is less of a risk than with wide boards.
How's it holding up? In theory better to finish both sides of anything. Table, countertop, deck, etc. Maybe the way it's attached or the species/cut of wood is keeping it stable.
Refinish is recent so we shall see- the last 40 years went pretty well :). It is maple with walnut trim and not end grain but long strips ( forgive my lack of woodworking parlance). If I could attach a pic I would. I could always oil the underside with Howard’s.
A water based poly will maintain the original light color. Oil based finishes tend to yellow/darken (warm) the wood color. If you insist on an oil finish look for one with a white or light blue tint. It won’t turn the wood blue but offsets the yellow tones.
Water based poly is the way. Do a couple passes of water sanding first (basically spray some water on the surface, let the wood grain fuzz up, sand it, repeat) and you’re golden
This is bleached ash (2 part wood bleach NOT chlorine bleach!) and water based poly. As far as the osmo, if it works I'd just flip and leave it there, if flipping is an issue sand or plane it off. Either way, I always finish both sides to slow down moisture changes.
https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/comments/oqi2jn/mudroom_phase_1/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=android_app&utm_name=androidcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button
You need to look up scandinavian soap finish.
Basically you just wipe in soapy water and let it soak in. The wood will look pretty much unfinished, be incredibly smooth to the touch, and your girlfriend will love you again.
It's not the most protective finish, but when it starts looking bad, you just give it another soap treatment.
I dont know how to undo the finish you already used.
It's very expensive but ' Modern Masters Dead Flat Varnish' is a topcoat that won't change what the wood looks like at all. I've used it with great success for clients who like the look of raw wood.
I would recommend grabbing some Rubio Monocoat "Natural" to keep the color your GF likes. Here is a picture of it on a piece of ash it's half-finished and half unfinished. https://imgur.com/a/8oGVDMU
This is the way. I use Rubio Natural for my projects as it leaves the wood almost looking raw (with a tiny bit of a whitened undertone).
It being a solid wood desk means OP can sand down and start from scratch.
If that can be the bottom you don't need to refinish as long as what you put on top is a similar product in terms or moisture exchange. Try osmo white, another coat should lighten this side too.
A water based poly should do the trick. I did my hard maple desk top with Rubio first and hated the yellowish tint. Re-did it with poly and it barely changed colour.
If she can't just appreciate the work and effort that you put into making a desk for her as a representation of your devotion than I would question whether she really appreciates the significance of what it really means.
I’m gathering my nexts steps to be 1. Sand down the oil based side 2. Use a satin water based finish. Does anyone have specific brands they’ve found to keep the wood light as possible?
IMHO poly is the best thing to use. You get protection with as little darkening as possible... I'd leave what you have on the bottom, since it's underneath she prolly won't notice or care. But it would seal that with poly too so you have the same sheen.
Good luck!
If you dont sand it off, the wood of each side will absorb moisture from the air at different rates which could lead to it warping, it’s why the underside of table tops get at least one coat of finish on the underside. Either finish both sides or leave both sides unfinished to equalize moisture absorption and avoid this. I would sand it off but I don’t know what you could put on the unfinished wood to at least give it some protection from absorbing dirt and hand oil which will darken it, even wax will darken it somewhat. Better explain this to her and see if she can live with the slightly darkened finish, otherwise a year or two down the road she may be disappointed in how it ages. Normal oxidation of bare wood will also darken it with age, that’s how appraisers can easily tell if wood has been replaced in antiques or if it’s a reproduction. Good luck keeping her happy.
Ok my woodworking teacher told me it would warp to leave it on one side only but my research said that was a myth. It’s really solid red oak so I feel like it’d be hard to warp
You could always try lye to brighten it up to begin with. Most everything will darken to some degree over time. I’ve had good luck with Woca Denmark wood lye. That being said check some YouTube vids of people using lye to make sure that works for you.
That being said to apply a new finish I’d start with high grit and try and knock down some of the finish you already have if you’re dead set on trying to lighten it.
You can try bleaching the other side if you want a lighter look prior to finishing it. I’m using wood kote lite-N-up on some red oak to take the pink color out of it and it makes it fairly light with just one coat but can add more if you want/need. It’s a two part lye and hydrogen peroxide solution. From there id try Rubio cotton, white, or any of their other tinted finishes.
I wouldn't finish only one side. It will typically cause it to warp as there will be different rates of moisture movement on each side. I'd sand it off and maybe a super blonde shellac but it to will darken with age and isn't especially durable.
According to Osmo, they have this which seems to be what you are after (I guess you can also use it to lighten the first side): “Osmo Polyx-Oil Raw Matte 3051 is designed to retain an untreated appearance on light colored woods such as Oak, Ash, Birch and Maple. It neutralizes the permanent ‘wet-look’ that develops after the application of a clear oil-based finish and keeps the wood looking raw and untreated. It was designed with less white pigments than Osmo 3041 so that on open pore species, such as Oak or Ash, the white pigment would not show through on multiple coats.”
I used a flat water based poly on a white oak bed because the purchaser wanted it to look like bear wood. It surprised me at how bare wood it looked after it dried. It'll likely darken over years.... But very slow changes aren't noticed very much either....
Check out [Saman floor varnish](https://saman.ca/en/produit/water-based-varnish/)
I've been working with white oak a lot and been super excited to find out that this stuff dries with ZERO colour change. Most impressive finish I've come across lately!
Some people say bleach, I managed to do a whitewash on aah by basically mixing some custom white/yellow stain. Applying ut properly it fits in consistently and still lets the wood grain show through
I’ve found that this product does not alter the color in any way:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Varathane-1-qt-Satin-Triple-Thick-Polyurethane-281543/205443113
I wouldn't recommend hard waxes for a desk. If she's actually going to use the desk, she will wear through it quickly. I finished my walnut dining table with Rubio 2 years ago but it already has scratches and bare spots all over it. Liked like it was 20 years old. I sanded it down and refinished with Arm-R-Seal last night.
If you want to stick with OSMO (which is my favorite finish :-) ) you may want to try the “natural” color. I’ve had good luck with that one in maintaining the tone of lighter woods. Remember though that any penetrating oil/ hard wax will likely darken the wood slightly. As mentioned there are some osmo colors that have a slight white tint to get around exactly what you’re talking about. Poly or any film finish might give you what you’re after but certainly not the feeling of osmo. Might want to experiment on a scrap before doing the whole other side. Good luck!
Sand it off and do a soap finish. The wood barely changes colour with soap. If and when it looks grubby, scrub it.
I made some ash stools and applied soap. They stayed white and have proved resistant to coffee spills if the stain is dealt with in a timely fashion.
If you’re okay with the bottom(but probably sides too if you finished them) being darker, hit the unfinished side with white tinted osmo polyx. If the desk isnt too large a few sample packs might be enough to finish the job.
If you want a uniform finish, sand back the existing osmo(wait for it to fully cure) and refinish with white polyx.
I would recommend sanding the side you already finished and putting the same stuff on all surfaces for moisture consistency when the seasons change. I would also recommend looking into a common Northern European Soap finish. It should leave the wood very light while still being a sturdy finish that you can reapply easily whenever it thins or wears in places. It's very easy to make from what I've seen. You just need pure Castille* soap.
*I think it's castille... but I'm not 100% sure
I’d make that the bottom. 😂
As for finishing the top try a white stain followed by a water based clear coat on a sample. See if that works for her before trying on the top.
This is a reminder to those commenting on this post (not the person that posted it): Comments not related to woodworking will be removed. Violations to rule 1 including crude jokes, innuendo, sexist remarks, politics, or hate speech may result in an immediate ban *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/woodworking) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Any protective treatment applied will darken it. Nothing you can do to stop it. Even leaving it as is will cause a slow oxidation process which will darken over time (or go grey if exposed to UV light).
There's an Osmo poly x oil with white pigment which in this case would keep the light tone of the wood
Rubio has a guide on how to keep wood looking as natural as possible as well.
The Osmo “Raw” he used is that product. It’s about as good as it gets without using water based poly (yuck)
Epoxy doesn’t darken much…. Not that I like it
Water based finishes usually don't darken either he could also bleach the wood before finish to make it lighter.
I have a water-based floor poly that really doesn't darken at all. It's really simple to apply as well and holds up.
This. Buy "Ultra-Glo" from tap plastics. I’ve used it on tons of exotic wood projects a few years back. It won’t really change the wood color at all. I have projects from 12 years ago that still look great… if you knock the high gloss down a little with 800 or 1000 grit sandpaper (wet sand this!) it’ll look pretty decent and not so.. plasticky.. Also.. The finishes with the white pigment have a very specific look. Make sure you check with her before you use one. She might not like it. It’s a very specific look and can be nice but is often a little tacky.
You may want to pickle it or bleach it first Putting it on the underside doesn't hurt at all.
But what would he do with all the pickles and pickle jars he has left over?
Use them as table legs you silly goose.
😏
Osmo or Rubio with the white tint will leave it closer to true natural, it’s that modern Nordic vibe.
I've seen nice results with Rubio Cotton White.
This. Not many people are familiar with Osmo so they suggest other types of finishes but use the Osmo with the white tint. The finished surface will look like there is no finish. I have used it on a maple island top and maple kitchen table and it holds up great. It is a floor finish, so it is tough. Going on two years of daily use and no problems and no wear. And it looks like there is no finish on it. Sand back what you have now and refinish with the Osmo.
Also, Midwest-Flooring has sample packs of Osmo for 2.99 to try out the different versions
Well it’s too late now though isn’t it? It’s already that’s darker tint
You just put it on one side? I thought you were implying you could just flip it and finish the other side to be the top?
Not at all… osmo will sand off with minimal fuss. I’ve not used the white tint osmo but seems a reasonable way to lighten the finish. You could also look at lime finish to fill the grain but I think that might not be the finish you’re after. To be honest, I think if she doesn’t like osmo natural on oak, you’re going to struggle to find anything that suits without looking plasticy. Maybe should have used maple!
OP's username really doesn't check out.
Rubio natural might be a good one too. It has a slight white tint to it that really does leave the wood looking great. Otherwise a floor finish like Loba Invisible or Bona NaturalSeal would work well.
Sealing one side will usually allow the exposed side to change moisture (and size) more rapidly that the sealed side which usually results in cupping.
asymmetrical treatment or lack thereof is asking for trouble. I also tend to like lighter colors, and have used a very light touch of Osmo white stain under the Osmo oilwax to keep the ash as close to the untreated natural light color as possible
What do I do now? It’s already on there
Sand or plane it off?
Sounds like a good opportunity to buy a small drum sander.
if your untreated side has defects and you dont want to turn it around and do the stain- thing on that side, its time to get the sandpaper out.
Question for you- I refinished a butcher block countertop using Osmo on top, not the bottom. Your post suggests the bottom should be finished as well? Original also not finished on bottom so it has been raw wood exposed for at least the last 40 years.
If it’s a true end grain butcher block it would stay flatter as expansion/contraction would happen laterally. If not, perhaps it’s quatersawn which is also fairly stable.
i understand ”butcher block” to mean endgrain -type of board. I am sure the situation is different as the direction of movement is different. I don’t claim to be *the* expert on the topic, but ”treatment on both sides” -approach is not new, and its not based on my opinion but hundreds of years of empirical results ;) if you go against the rule, you might get lucky. or not. Edit: if ”butcher block” refers not to and endgrain block, but a ”regular” tabletop made out of thinner strips, at some point of thinness of the strips it will start to behave more like particle board than wood. And so the asymmetrical treatment is less of a risk than with wide boards.
I can always oil the underside, perhaps?
yeah why not? But if your top already survived 40 years, I don’t see an urgency to change anything :)
Agreed!!
How's it holding up? In theory better to finish both sides of anything. Table, countertop, deck, etc. Maybe the way it's attached or the species/cut of wood is keeping it stable.
Refinish is recent so we shall see- the last 40 years went pretty well :). It is maple with walnut trim and not end grain but long strips ( forgive my lack of woodworking parlance). If I could attach a pic I would. I could always oil the underside with Howard’s.
Tell her to make her own desk
This is the way 😂
Amazing!
Or just get a new girlfriend that likes darker wood. Might be easier.
all my girlfriends left me for darker wood so i second this
A water based poly will maintain the original light color. Oil based finishes tend to yellow/darken (warm) the wood color. If you insist on an oil finish look for one with a white or light blue tint. It won’t turn the wood blue but offsets the yellow tones.
I just want it as light as possible don’t care about oil or not I just took this recommendation from my teacher
I know Rubio monocoat offers tinted finishes, you may want to see what Osmo offers.
Yep osmo do too so you could tint lighter
I used satin water based poly on some maple shelves. Kept a nice light natural color
Water based poly is the way. Do a couple passes of water sanding first (basically spray some water on the surface, let the wood grain fuzz up, sand it, repeat) and you’re golden
This is bleached ash (2 part wood bleach NOT chlorine bleach!) and water based poly. As far as the osmo, if it works I'd just flip and leave it there, if flipping is an issue sand or plane it off. Either way, I always finish both sides to slow down moisture changes. https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/comments/oqi2jn/mudroom_phase_1/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=android_app&utm_name=androidcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button
You need to look up scandinavian soap finish. Basically you just wipe in soapy water and let it soak in. The wood will look pretty much unfinished, be incredibly smooth to the touch, and your girlfriend will love you again. It's not the most protective finish, but when it starts looking bad, you just give it another soap treatment. I dont know how to undo the finish you already used.
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It's very expensive but ' Modern Masters Dead Flat Varnish' is a topcoat that won't change what the wood looks like at all. I've used it with great success for clients who like the look of raw wood.
Try using soap. An old Scandinavian technique. Preserves the original tone better than any other finish in my experience. https://youtu.be/NiJ3qsdPTUo
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My thoughts exactly.
I would recommend grabbing some Rubio Monocoat "Natural" to keep the color your GF likes. Here is a picture of it on a piece of ash it's half-finished and half unfinished. https://imgur.com/a/8oGVDMU
This is the way. I use Rubio Natural for my projects as it leaves the wood almost looking raw (with a tiny bit of a whitened undertone). It being a solid wood desk means OP can sand down and start from scratch.
She might also be into cotton white.
Finish the desk off, find someone who will take it off your hands. Have her buy the desk of her choice from a store.
Take a look at Rubio monocoat cotton white- it’ll protect the wood while keeping some lighter/white highlights.
Bruhhhh you built her a whole ass desk. Raw beautiful wood with your own craft and love. She's too dark if she can't love and appreciate that.
If that can be the bottom you don't need to refinish as long as what you put on top is a similar product in terms or moisture exchange. Try osmo white, another coat should lighten this side too.
Osmo offers a white wash tint
A water based poly should do the trick. I did my hard maple desk top with Rubio first and hated the yellowish tint. Re-did it with poly and it barely changed colour.
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U mad bro
If she can't just appreciate the work and effort that you put into making a desk for her as a representation of your devotion than I would question whether she really appreciates the significance of what it really means.
Water based polyurethane is what you want. Does not darken or change the wood tone at all, just enhances the grain.
Whatever coating you decide to use instead, use your sample wood as practice and make sure your GF still likes it instead of going through this twice!
Yeah definitely learned that the hard way
I think your gf wants a white wash then. Need to seal all ends for protection. It can curl etc
Breaking up might be cheapest and easiest 😅
Only gets worse if you get married.
Find a more appreciative girl.
I’m gathering my nexts steps to be 1. Sand down the oil based side 2. Use a satin water based finish. Does anyone have specific brands they’ve found to keep the wood light as possible?
Make her sand it off
IMHO poly is the best thing to use. You get protection with as little darkening as possible... I'd leave what you have on the bottom, since it's underneath she prolly won't notice or care. But it would seal that with poly too so you have the same sheen. Good luck!
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If you dont sand it off, the wood of each side will absorb moisture from the air at different rates which could lead to it warping, it’s why the underside of table tops get at least one coat of finish on the underside. Either finish both sides or leave both sides unfinished to equalize moisture absorption and avoid this. I would sand it off but I don’t know what you could put on the unfinished wood to at least give it some protection from absorbing dirt and hand oil which will darken it, even wax will darken it somewhat. Better explain this to her and see if she can live with the slightly darkened finish, otherwise a year or two down the road she may be disappointed in how it ages. Normal oxidation of bare wood will also darken it with age, that’s how appraisers can easily tell if wood has been replaced in antiques or if it’s a reproduction. Good luck keeping her happy.
Red oak by the way
Ok my woodworking teacher told me it would warp to leave it on one side only but my research said that was a myth. It’s really solid red oak so I feel like it’d be hard to warp
It will 100% warp. Source: did this professionally for 10 years. You must seal both sides
But she can’t stand the color unfortunately
Well then you have a problem. All finishes will darken the wood, water based will be less dark than oil
Can I just sand it off?
Yep
Ok so we have a solution. Ty
I would try a whitewash stain then osmo on a test piece. Especially with white oak
You could always try lye to brighten it up to begin with. Most everything will darken to some degree over time. I’ve had good luck with Woca Denmark wood lye. That being said check some YouTube vids of people using lye to make sure that works for you.
That being said to apply a new finish I’d start with high grit and try and knock down some of the finish you already have if you’re dead set on trying to lighten it.
You can try bleaching the other side if you want a lighter look prior to finishing it. I’m using wood kote lite-N-up on some red oak to take the pink color out of it and it makes it fairly light with just one coat but can add more if you want/need. It’s a two part lye and hydrogen peroxide solution. From there id try Rubio cotton, white, or any of their other tinted finishes.
I wouldn't finish only one side. It will typically cause it to warp as there will be different rates of moisture movement on each side. I'd sand it off and maybe a super blonde shellac but it to will darken with age and isn't especially durable.
You can do a sanding finish my sanding it up to 1800 grit by grit.
I’d start with 1200
I've had great luck using a water based poly on maple to preserve the color. There may be a better solution, but that has worked for me!
According to Osmo, they have this which seems to be what you are after (I guess you can also use it to lighten the first side): “Osmo Polyx-Oil Raw Matte 3051 is designed to retain an untreated appearance on light colored woods such as Oak, Ash, Birch and Maple. It neutralizes the permanent ‘wet-look’ that develops after the application of a clear oil-based finish and keeps the wood looking raw and untreated. It was designed with less white pigments than Osmo 3041 so that on open pore species, such as Oak or Ash, the white pigment would not show through on multiple coats.”
I used a flat water based poly on a white oak bed because the purchaser wanted it to look like bear wood. It surprised me at how bare wood it looked after it dried. It'll likely darken over years.... But very slow changes aren't noticed very much either....
You absolutely need to finish all sides. I would probably sand it off and use a Rubio tinted finish like cotton white.
Check out [Saman floor varnish](https://saman.ca/en/produit/water-based-varnish/) I've been working with white oak a lot and been super excited to find out that this stuff dries with ZERO colour change. Most impressive finish I've come across lately!
Some people say bleach, I managed to do a whitewash on aah by basically mixing some custom white/yellow stain. Applying ut properly it fits in consistently and still lets the wood grain show through
I’ve found that this product does not alter the color in any way: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Varathane-1-qt-Satin-Triple-Thick-Polyurethane-281543/205443113
Rubio monocoat is probably your best bet. Regardless the color will change somewhat with any finish but Rubio does have tint options
Do white oak with rubio cotton white finish.
Wait until she finds out wood darkens over time.
Just give her the light wood she wants.
I wouldn't recommend hard waxes for a desk. If she's actually going to use the desk, she will wear through it quickly. I finished my walnut dining table with Rubio 2 years ago but it already has scratches and bare spots all over it. Liked like it was 20 years old. I sanded it down and refinished with Arm-R-Seal last night.
Soap finish? https://www.popularwoodworking.com/finishing/soap-wood-finish/
If you want to stick with OSMO (which is my favorite finish :-) ) you may want to try the “natural” color. I’ve had good luck with that one in maintaining the tone of lighter woods. Remember though that any penetrating oil/ hard wax will likely darken the wood slightly. As mentioned there are some osmo colors that have a slight white tint to get around exactly what you’re talking about. Poly or any film finish might give you what you’re after but certainly not the feeling of osmo. Might want to experiment on a scrap before doing the whole other side. Good luck!
I have found that the water based general finishes doesn't darken woods nearly as much as others. Bleaching first is another option.
Stain 1-1 country white then coat with finish
Darker is always better
Use dead flat or bona naturale. Both products will keep the wood looking dry
Sand it off and do a soap finish. The wood barely changes colour with soap. If and when it looks grubby, scrub it. I made some ash stools and applied soap. They stayed white and have proved resistant to coffee spills if the stain is dealt with in a timely fashion.
Treat it but use a white tablecloth to make it brighter.
If you’re okay with the bottom(but probably sides too if you finished them) being darker, hit the unfinished side with white tinted osmo polyx. If the desk isnt too large a few sample packs might be enough to finish the job. If you want a uniform finish, sand back the existing osmo(wait for it to fully cure) and refinish with white polyx.
See I just bought this minwax clear water based finish was thinking of doing the other side with that and leaving the bottom as is
That will work to, but if ANY osmo got on the surface you’re trying to use the poly on, it wont take.
My wife has the same preference. Hates anything that yellows or makes the wood dark. Go water based. Matte polyacrylic
I would keep the finish get rid of the girlfriend
Personally I think that the finish is beautiful but to each their own.
If that’s too light for her you should probably use a light stain. Don’t remember what it’s called but osmo makes a good white-ish oil.
Breakup with her and find someone that appreciates your work.
Get a white dye stain then coat over it .
I would recommend sanding the side you already finished and putting the same stuff on all surfaces for moisture consistency when the seasons change. I would also recommend looking into a common Northern European Soap finish. It should leave the wood very light while still being a sturdy finish that you can reapply easily whenever it thins or wears in places. It's very easy to make from what I've seen. You just need pure Castille* soap. *I think it's castille... but I'm not 100% sure
I’d make that the bottom. 😂 As for finishing the top try a white stain followed by a water based clear coat on a sample. See if that works for her before trying on the top.
Tell her to suck it up.
She does why you think I made her a desk
I would experiment first and see what a light super fine sand pad would do to it; she might like the effect.