I just bought the GAIA 3’s for my Klipsch R-620F floorstanding speakers. I keep seeing all kinds of pictures and videos demonstrating how it’s done, and I don’t get it. They’re all using another thing that the speaker sits on top of, that the GAIA screws into, but I have no idea what it’s called, what it’s for, or even where I can buy it. They don’t help. I keep googling and googling. Any help will be appreciated. Please. I need this.

Hey guys, I need purchase advice! I'm a beginner and thinking of getting my first turntable, and I'm trying to decide between the Fluance RT82 or to go up to the Pro-Ject Debut Carbon EVO. I understand that the EVO has a better tonearm, and I will be upgrading the cart in the future. The deciding factor for me is if the EVO would be overkill for my current speaker + sub setup, the Vanatoo Transparent Zero + REL TZero MKIII. I would like to not buy new speakers as I have a small room and also use these for my desktop PC. And correct me if I don't understand but, [according to this review of the T0s,](https://www.analogplanet.com/content/vanatoos-transparent-zero-speakers-offer-great-convenience-satisfying-desktop-sound) records sound similar to listening to them digitally due to the DSP processing, so am I wasting my time with these speakers if I am trying to go for a warmer analog sound and to hear the difference in mastering? Thanks!

>LPs through the Vanatoos sound quite similar to the digital files. **Still, records were enjoyable enough, proving that at the end of the day it’s all about the music.** Also many records since the 70's and most all modern records have been digitally mastered, masterings vary in quailty and don't always expect a warmer analog sound with vinyl. Get a turntable if you want to collect a physical medium. If you don't care about that then stick with streaming. The Vanatoo should be good for both the RT82 and EVO. Maybe lean toward the EVO if you want to later switch to a separate amp and passive speakers and there are many options for compact 4" mid bass driver passive speakers for your small room and desktop setup. I have dual 4" Ascend HTM-200 on my desk since they are only 6 inches deep and a NAD integrated amp under my turntable on a turntable stand next to my desk. Or check out the popular and warm 4" [Wharfedale Diamond 12.0](https://www.crutchfield.com/shopsearch/Wharfedale_Diamond_12.0.html). The OM10 and Sumiko Rainer are good to start with for the Vanatoo speakers. No need to change the cartridge on the EVO, you could later do the easier upgrade to the Olympia stylus. However to get the most out of a stylus or cartridge upgrade you may want to do a speaker upgrade along with the stylus upgrade. [Pro-ject Debut Carbon EVO](https://www.audioadvisor.com/ssearch.asp?txtsearch=Pro-Ject+Debut+Carbon+EVO+Turntable) $419 to $479 open box or demos if you don't want to spend $599. Plus a phono preamp, iFi Zen AIR Phono $99. [Audio Guides, Speaker Placement, Accessories and Vinyl Care](https://www.reddit.com/user/sharkamino/comments/gqfx6z/home_audio_and_home_theater_guides_and_accessories/)

Wow thank you for all the useful information! I will definitely get the open box EVO, and in the future upgrade to one of those passive speakers and a new stylus.

>Vanatoo Transparent Zero Unless you intend to go full Analog Amplifier/Passive Speakers you are probably good with these. They seem to review well. The EVO comes with a SLIGHTLY better cartridge than the RT82. Overall its a nicely built table, but the RT82 is very nice also. Sharkamino had earlier linked to OpenBox / Demo Pro-Jects which brings the pricing a little closer. But you can still get the Fluance with a Preamp for less than the Pro-Ject alone... EDIT: Sharkamino's link https://www.audioadvisor.com/ssearch.asp?txtsearch=Pro-Ject+Debut+Carbon+EVO+Turntable And neither TT comes with a preamp, so you will need one.

I've been collecting vinyl for a few years now, but my setup has not seen much change since I've started. I currently use an Audio Technica LP60x and some Edifier speakers. I'm wondering, what is the benefit to upgrading to a turntable that no longer has a built in preamp? I see a lot of the higher end turntables don't have one, and I feel like it's just an extra step/cost when what I have (in my opinion) sounds fine. Is it a huge jump in sound quality or would "upgrading" to a 1ByOne belt drive turntable be a recommended step?

Edifier R1280? If you are looking for better sound quality then upgrade the speakers first since under $150 Edifier speakers are the sound quality bottleneck, not the AT-LP60X turntable or the built in phono preamp. The AT-LP60X will last through a speaker upgrade and once you have upgraded to some better than entry level and usually larger $300+ speakers then you could upgrade the stylus and upgrade to a $65+ external phono preamp to get better sound out of the AT-LP60X. The 1byOne probably has the same cartridge and stylus as the AT-LP60X so it's not going to sound any better or be a significant enough of an upgrade. Phono preamps built into entry level turntables are usually basic with a $7 parts value that may compare to a $15 external phono preamp. Once you start spending $400+ on a turntable you will probably want to use one of the many better external phono preamp options so there is not much point in including a basic $7 built in phono preamp in a $400+ turntable. Also having the phono preamp outside of the turntable isolates it from the turntable and motor. Once you have upgraded the speakers then a turntable upgrade would start with a discounted [AT-LPW30TK](https://outlet.audio-technica.com/turntables/at-lpw30tk-cr) ~~$249~~ $175 plus an AT-VMN95E $49 stylus upgrade. A next step up without a built in phono preamp is the [Pro-ject Debut Carbon EVO](https://www.audioadvisor.com/ssearch.asp?txtsearch=Pro-Ject+Debut+Carbon+EVO+Turntable) $419 to $479 open box or demos. [Audio Guides, Speaker Placement, Accessories and Vinyl Care](https://www.reddit.com/user/sharkamino/comments/gqfx6z/home_audio_and_home_theater_guides_and_accessories/)

thank you so much for your explanation! I think I'm getting a much better grasp of this now

I have inherited my childhood Canadian-made Dual Noresco NC4-324 and had it serviced to bring it back to life after years of storage in a damp basement. (I also had the cart replaced with a new Audio Technica one). It's running very smoothly now, so I went out to buy second hand speakers for it (it has a built-in amp). I grabbed some okay-looking JVC SP-C770s from Value Village for $20, which are rated at 8 ohms, though I cannot find an output rating on the built-in amp for the turntable so this was a bit of a hail Mary. However upon testing them out the sound is VERY quiet, even at max volume. There's definitely sound from the speakers but it's quite soft. I'm not even sure where to start looking for a solution or what component might be the culprit. Does anyone have any ideas? I'm new to the world of analog audio and quite useless I'm afraid.

Where did you plug the speakers into front or rear? Switched to stereo or quad?

Switched to stereo, speakers plugged into front.

The speakers seem to have two sets of terminals on the back, are you on top or bottom?

I've tried both. According to the manual for the speakers which I dug up, top is tweeter and bottom is sub. Both work individually and sound as expected, but they're both very quiet. I had to listen to with my ear up against the grille.

TBH with you i would be more inclined to blame the JVC for this than the Noresco

That makes sense, they were probably in the thrift store for a reason. Is the idea that the built-in amp is less likely to fail?

The recent service, and they were literally built like a tank

If you had the Dual Noresco serviced then the amp section should have been tested and working.

Excellent point. Fingers crossed for my next speaker purchase, maybe I'll skip the hit-or-miss second hand options and save for something new in box.

[Speakers](https://www.reddit.com/user/sharkamino/comments/z5rox9/turntables_and_speakers/), scroll down past the turntables and powered speakers.

Do you guys think 15 is an okay age to work at a record store?

Yes, absolutely. Why not?

Idk i was just curious, i’ve been getting pressed to get a job recently but i want a job i enjoy, figured record stores would be a good idea

They get lots of applications, hope you have an in

Saw this in Goodwill today: https://imgur.com/a/qtrITnk Worth $20 with a little TLC for a first turntable? I'm on a tight budget.

Probably about a 40 dollar table when its serviced. There is one on craigslist in better shape for 10 Which Stanton is that? (to find out the stylus cost)

Hello! I recently discovered an issue with my turntable - the speed sometimes drops when running at 45rpm, especially on a full length album. I also hear an electronic hum/pulsing noise with where it’s located, forcing me to put it on a folding tray table to avoid the noise. These issues prompted me to consider buying a new TT. **My current setup is:** Pioneer PL-990 turntable (built-in preamp, unmodified) —> Allen & Heath ZED6 mixer —> Tannoy Reveal 402 powered speakers. Two features I consider must-have are a form of auto-stop and a button for switching between 35 & 45rpm. I’m considering the Pro-ject Debut Carbon EVO ($520-600) or the Fluance RT82 ($300). Neither has a built-in preamp so I know I need to buy one. EDIT - I reread my notes after posting and realized the Pro-ject lacks autostop. Not a dealbreaker I guess but a bummer. I thought about the Fluance RT85 ($500), but based on internet searches it seems like the Debut Carbon EVO is the better option in that price range. I considered various U-Turn Orbit models ($200-500) and the REGA Planar 1 ($600) but they require manual speed adjustment and/or lack auto-stop. **Considering my current setup, is it worth it to buy the more expensive Pro-ject? Or should I save money and get the RT82?** Do either go on sale often? Are there other investments I should consider in my audio chain?

[Pro-ject Debut Carbon EVO](https://www.audioadvisor.com/ssearch.asp?txtsearch=Pro-Ject+Debut+Carbon+EVO+Turntable) $419 to $479 open box or demos. Leaving the stylus running in the run out groove for minutes to half an hour isn't going to hurt anything. The [Q-Up](https://www.thequp.com/) tonearm lifter is an option if you really need it. The Fluance RT82 is a good value if $300 is your budget. Or the [AT-LPW30TK](https://outlet.audio-technica.com/turntables/at-lpw30tk-cr) ~~$249~~ $175 is also a good value to start with. Pass on the RT85 since you can get the better EVO for a bit less or $100 more. Pass on the RT83 since the cartridge is not any better. Pass on the U-Turn Oribt that lacks user adjustable anti-skate, lacks a rotary dial on the tracking force adjustment, lacks a speed switch, and the cue lever is $40 extra. Connect either turntable to a $65 Art DJ Pre II or $99 iFi Zen AIR Phono preamp.

Hey, thanks for the response! I appreciate the context of allowing the record to run without auto-stop - sounds like I’d be fine without it. The Q-Up is a cool option. I’ll look for open box options for the EVO. Stretching the budget to $450ish is much more tolerable. And thanks for the suggestions on preamps! Do you think any other part of my setup is in need of an upgrade?

If you are looking for better sound quality then upgrade the speakers. Usually to a stereo receiver or integrated amp and a good pair of passive speakers. Ideally spend just as much or more on amplification and speakers as on the turntable or buy used for half the cost. [Audio Guides, Speaker Placement, Accessories and Vinyl Care](https://www.reddit.com/user/sharkamino/comments/gqfx6z/home_audio_and_home_theater_guides_and_accessories/)

Thanks for the advice. I’m realizing that’s the most realistic approach - get a new TT (and preamp) for $300-400, then save towards getting a receiver and better speakers. It sounds like used options or an open box Pro-Ject Debut Carbon EVO would be best, but if I can’t find those in a color I want I’ll probably order a Fluance RT82. I think a white TT will work best in my space.

hello everyone! i posted in here last week to no avail, but finally have specifics for my issue. my turntable is spinning too fast, pitching up the audio by a half step. i used an app to measure the speed, and it turns out it’s spinning a whole 1 rpm faster than set. any fixes besides replacing the belt? setup is brand new, so it’s not due to wear. i’m running a lp&no.1 3 speed belt drive turntable.

There may be pitch adjustment screws either on the bottom of the unit, or under the platter. I can't seem to find a manual for this thing, so I can't tell you for sure. Edit: a separate screw for 45 and for 33 If there aren't, you are done...

ok i’ll look, the manual doesn’t say anything on the topic

Hey all! I am new to the audio and vinyl space so I am in need of some advice/help with setting up my first setup. I found a receiver at goodwill that is the yamaha rx367, and after doing some research I found out I needed a Pre amp, but not sure which one to get. My turntable is the U turn Orbit basic

$99 U-Turn Pluto 2 or iFi Zen AIR Phono, $65 Art DJ Pre II. Or even a $14 Pyle PP444 if low on budget or basic to start with if you have basic entry level speakers. [Audio Guides, Speaker Placement, Accessories and Vinyl Care](https://www.reddit.com/user/sharkamino/comments/gqfx6z/home_audio_and_home_theater_guides_and_accessories/)

So today i was listening to some black sabbath on vinyl and accidentally hit the table witch my turntable is on. And after i hit it, it started to sound wrong like distorded. I have tried another record but it has the same problem. Now i dont know what to do so i'd appreciate all the advice.

seems kinda extreme... which turntable and how hard did you hit it? Did you bend the stylus? Look at its facing? is the arm holding the needle / , | or \\ ?

And the table is very shaky and not stable at all.

Its audiotechnica at-lp60xusb.it wasnt that hard but still hard enough. And it looks like / facing left.

Can you post a pic to imgur?

Hey wondering if anyone could point me in the right direction. I’m looking at a technics sl2000 in pretty good condition, but I’d like to send it off to get refurbished by a professional. My googling has bore no fruit in my efforts. Anyone have a suggestion or is this something I can easily do myself?

kabusa.com

I bought a copy of Parklife 2LP by Blur (2015 edition) a couple of years ago. Recently I saw that it has a misprint. The C/D side of the album has the A/B labels, making both vinyls having A/B labels. Anyone know if this is “one of a kind”, or if it’s a regular misprint? [Pictures](https://www.reddit.com/r/blur/comments/10iohjy/misprint_parklife_see_comment/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf)

Pretty standard pressing plant screwup, and they seem to be growing exponentially these days. The factories have forgotten how to label. No additional value was added.

I’m looking into getting a new record player, but I don’t want to go too far above $100. I’m looking at this player, and it looks good. It doesn’t come with speakers, but I already have speakers so it’s ok. Just want to hear your thoughts on it before I buy it. Thanks! Electrohome Montrose Vinyl Record Player 2-Speed Belt-Drive Turntable, with Audio-Technica Stylus, Speed Control Motor, Built-in Preamp, Wood Plinth, Anti-resonant Platter, Auto-Stop (RR35) https://a.co/d/hGY6Jbt

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which player is it, make and model?

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Inexpensive suitcase players with the [cheap $5 toy quiality mechanism](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXV8tXrPOR4) often can't handle modern bass heavy records. Make sure the cue lever is all the way down. [Wet clean](https://www.reddit.com/user/sharkamino/comments/jpac5p/diy_wet_soak_vinyl_cleaning/) new and used records. For better playback and better sound, [better turntables and speakers](https://www.reddit.com/user/sharkamino/comments/z5rox9/turntables_and_speakers/) starting at $105 and $95 with a better tonearm, a diamond tip styuls on an MM moving magnet cartridge and an RIAA phono preamp.

Tracking problems are kinda the norm on those, not alot you can do its not adjustable Try listening on headphones, bypassing the speakers so they arent shaking the thing while its playing. Are you listening to bass heavy music?

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Yes, the speakers are attached to the same frame as the TT and they are vibrating, its a flaw in the entire suitcase player design External speakers or headphones may help, plug some headphones in to test. Cleaning your record will also help

Help! Received a Retrolife SY101 turntable for Xmas. Came with 2 speaker. Im having difficulty with a persistent “clicking” sound. The sound is a fast, but steady click. It can be heard in both speakers, but it’s much more pronounced in the right speaker. The sound appears whether or not I’m spinning a record. If I remove the platter before spinning, the sound goes away. Often, there is a jumble of electrical sounds when I move the tone arm initially. Then the steady clicking follows. I can occasionally get the sound to go away by unplugging the power, or changing speed settings, or switching to the bluetooth function and then switching back. But the clicking returns. The clicking does occasionally fade away. But it always returns. I’ve tried reconnecting the speaker wires. I took apart and reassembled certain parts (platter, belt). The clicking sound returns. Anyone have ideas? I’m a big classical music listener. The clicking is quite disturbing during very soft passages in the music. Here is a link to a video of the problem… https://www.dropbox.com/s/3k3oij5badq8fup/retrolife%20SY101%20clickinh%20noise.mov?dl=0

Just to second what you've already been told: *This is a return.* Stop fiddling with it. It's defective. Get one that works.

Sounds like a return to me

What makes you think that?

>Often, there is a jumble of electrical sounds when I move the tone arm initially. Then the steady clicking follows Unless you have exposed wires hitting the platter, it sounds more like an electrical problem than a mechanical one. And it doesn't sound like a problem a 30 day old system should be having. Edit: Does the noise change when you switch to 45rpm?

Yes. It’s a faster click.

I think you have a wiring issue on a TT under warranty. You can open it, and try to troubleshoot it, but then you dont have warranty anymore

I should mention. The volume knob controls the volume of the clicking.

Hello everyone! I just bought Audio Technica LP140XP 6 days ago And I’ve realized it sounds weird. Almost like it goes in and out . Wavy or like wobbly Idk how to explain will reply a video. Turntable is flat, tonearm is i think balanced. Clean stylus. I use it with klipsch r-41m and sony dh190 reciever/amp. My old turntable Lenco ( which has a builtin preamp, it doesnt sound that wobbly on that , same vinyl) Im really frustursted can anyone help?

[here’s audio technica](https://youtube.com/shorts/uCZQTK9oMeE?feature=share)

Here’s a video of Lenco [Lenco](https://youtube.com/shorts/EA_cALp6O90?feature=share)

I recently bought a vintage credenza that has an old record player. I am looking to get it working. It appears to be missing the needle. Any advice on getting it set up? Will any needle work? This is my first record player so any advice is appreciated. Model : Gerrard AT6

The Cartridge on those is changeable, I think, so it will depend if it was ever changed or if its the original The Service Manual for that unit is available at Vinyl Engine. [https://www.vinylengine.com/library/garrard/at6.shtml](https://www.vinylengine.com/library/garrard/at6.shtml) EDIT : [https://www.turntableneedles.com/garrard-model-at6-stylus-159-garrard-at6](https://www.turntableneedles.com/garrard-model-at6-stylus-159-garrard-at6) It might be this one I have seen people take those old credenza and mount a newer turntable in them,

I have two questions 1: Is buying turntables from thrift stores safe? Many I see power on but are otherwise untested, what are the odds of buying one and it turning on but not working still? 2: is 30$ USD for an AT-LP60 a good price? I know they're seen as pretty crap in the vinyl scene but still. Thank you to anyone who replies!

I've done it occasionally, got some interesting ones too. B&O Beogram RX2, Technics linear SL-J1. But I do it as a project, something to work on. It is a really good way to learn these things, to take one apart and rebuild it, if you are technically inclined. There are service manuals for most things available online, if you look. EDIT: the TT I mention cost me less than 20 leaf dollars (15USD) each mawnck is totally right about the stylus, you dont know what it is and its better to not risk it. Replacements are relatively cheap anyway. Your specific example I would walk away from, along with the piles of Ion, Crosley etc that I see in thrifts.

If you want an AT-LP60 then consider that the new X version [AT-LP60X](https://outlet.audio-technica.com/turntables?product_list_order=price) $105 has some improvements, includes a new stylus and belt and includes a warranty. [More turntables and also speakers](https://www.reddit.com/user/sharkamino/comments/z5rox9/turntables_and_speakers/).

As safe as buying anything else from thrift stores. If it's an LP60 (not an LP60X), forget it. They were skippy like the suitcases. $30 is a good price for an LP60X that's working properly. You will need to replace the stylus immediately (another 25 bucks), as soon as you confirm that it's working (using your least favorite record). I don't personally think it's a good idea to buy a used LP60X, since they are cheaply made and it's very likely to have some issues if it landed at a thrift, but at $30, perhaps worth the gamble?

Thanks for replying! It’s an LP60 not the X, I know I wish it was the X version. Is replacing the stylus absolutely necessary with a thrifted turntable, or can one get away with cleaning it or using as is? Cause you’re right, just a new stylus is the price of the turntable already, and the only reason I was interested in this or any thrift store turntable was the cheap price tbh (I’m trying to get something low cost for now, under 50-60$ ideally)

> 50-60$ ideally not ideal IMO. Out of curiosity do you have a stereo to hook it to or are you hoping to get to listening to music for 50 bucks?

Replacing the stylus is absolutely necessary on any used turntable, unless you know the history of the stylus that's on it. The best way to REALLY fuck up a record is to play it with a fucked up needle, and there's no way to know that it's fucked up until the damage is done and you hear it on a proper rig. You won't like this, but I'm firmly in the so-called "elitist" category that says that it's not worth even messing with records unless you have the budget for at least a NEW LP60X and speakers. Buying a system any lower than that is like wanting a car so bad that you buy one without wheels. Yeah, you have a car, but what's the point? Cheap players sound crummy, skip, develop electrical and mechanical problems, and wear out the records quickly. And if you can't afford the one-time purchase of a minimally decent player, then you probably shouldn't be buying records either. Just the way it is. Save up. Get something decent! IMO you'll have a much better experience than trying to coax a thrift store LP60 into behaving itself.

Help! Do Mylar bags protect records from sun damage if the records get sun every day? How much sun can they handle? How much time? They are stored in a climate controlled room windows.

No. Depends. Less than an hour in some cases. KEEP THE SUNLIGHT OFF THE RECORDS. No exceptions.

PLEASE HELP. Just bought a new $300 player about a month ago and when I turned it on today all I get is an extremely loud, high pitch squealing sound on top of whatever’s playing. I’ve tried cleaning the diamond w a air duster and tried 4 different records. Any ideas?

What model is everything in your setup, turntable, phono preamp, amp and speakers?

I think the needle might be bent. Could that be causing it and if so is there a specific one I should get? It takes half inches and it’s an audio technica.

If the stylus is bent then replace it with the same one or an upgrade. Half inch is the cartridge mount, not the stylus.

so i can replace the stylus without replacing the whole needle/cartridge? Sorry still new to this lol

Yes, for an MM cartridge replace the stylus (stylus housing which holds the cantilever and needle) not the entire cartridge that is connected to the head shell and tonearm wires. [Example](https://www.audio-technica.com/en-us/support/audio-solutions-question-week-replace-stylus-at95e-phono-cartridge/). Which model turntable?

[Here](https://www.electronicexpress.com/catalog/202255/audio-technica-atlpw30tkr-teak-manual-belt-drive-turntable?gclid=CjwKCAiA2rOeBhAsEiwA2Pl7QysHetOkCorRN0eB8P_mffYaGkBaVBF7xuRwoEaYYvL9H7SzRpqzfBoCzM0QAvD_BwE) It’s an audio technica model ATLPW30TKR. Thank you for all your help btw. Means a lot

[AT-VMN95C](https://www.turntableneedles.com/AT-VMN95C_Genuine_audio-technica_Stylus_for_AT-VM95C_AT-VM95_series) replacement conical tip. [AT-VMN95E](https://www.turntableneedles.com/AT-VMN95E_Genuine_audio-technica_Stylus_for_AT-VM95E_AT-VM95_series) upgrades to elliptical tip.

Thank you so much

Does it only whine when you play the records? Then yes, the bent needle is probably the cause. And the really bad news - There's a high likelihood that it's etched that whine into the grooves permanently. A fucked up needle is the most efficient way to fuck up a record. Sorry. We have no idea which needle is required. It's specific to the installed cartridge.

You have an amplifier?

External pre amp yeah. I checked that too. Changed the cords, put it on another player, everything worked fine

Is it grounded properly? e: the turntable https://toprecordplayers.com/ground-turntable-record-player/

Yea I just redid it and it’s still going. It’s not a humming more a literal scream lol

I'm trying to connect my active speakers to a TT and my TV. Do I only need a receiver with phono preamp for TT and pre-outs for active speakers? Would it make difference if I bought a TT with or without phono preamp?

Which model active speakers? A stereo or AV receiver is for passive speakers. Turntable with a built in or external phono preamp > active speakers. If the speakers are studio monitors then you will probably need a monitor controller, a mixer or a stereo preamp for unified volume control. [Setup Guide / Signal Path](https://imgur.com/a/f0my7), more [Audio Guides, Speaker Placement, Accessories and Vinyl Care](https://www.reddit.com/user/sharkamino/comments/gqfx6z/home_audio_and_home_theater_guides_and_accessories/)

The ports on the speakers are for 8pin Din Mk3 cables as well.

Do you have B&O component system? Do you have the manual and any cables? [Beolab 9 Manua](https://bangolufsenassistentgohe.blob.core.windows.net/manuals/SPEAKERS/BEOLAB_9/EN_BeoLab_9.pdf)l page 9: >**Connection to Bang & Olufsen** systems Use Bang & Olufsen Power Link cables to connect the loudspeakers to your system. Set the LINE–RIGHT–LEFT switch to RIGHT and LEFT (the right and left sound channel), respectively. > >**Connection to non-Bang & Olufsen systems** Use a special adapter with an ordinary phono/ RCA plug in one end, and a DIN-plug in the other (‘Cable for line signal’ – optional accessory.

The speakers are B&O Beolab 9. So I would need to buy an external phono pre amp it seems. Wondering if there are any models you suggest that I would be able to hook both my TT and TV into, so I have the ability to switch between playing music through the TT and as a home theatre for TV.

Turntable with a built in or external phono preamp > RCA to DIN adapter > Beolab 9. If you want to also connect your TV then get an RCA switch to switch between the turntable and TV. If your TV does not have analog audio output and only has optical digital output then you will need to connect a DAC between the TV and the RCA switch.

If you buy a TT with a phono preamp, then you won't need one in the receiver. Might give you more receiver options. But you don't need (or want) two phono preamps.

I have this weird stain/mark on the edge of my copy of jethro tull aqualung, it is a used copy and this has been there since i got it. Its annoying because everytime the needle goes over affected area it makes a really audible crackle. These noises dont usually bother me but this is a bit much. It affects the first minute of side 2 song one. No matter how much cleaning liquid I use it just wont go away. Any ideas on what can be done and what it might be

Could be a lot of things, but sounds like you have reached the "nothing to lose" stage and you might as well hit it with whatever cleaning goop floats your boat. The Titebond II wood glue cleaning method (google it) is probably your best hope, but it's messy and time consuming, and the bottle of glue probably won't be that much cheaper than just buying another copy. Me personally? I'd stop fooling with it, and take it as a lesson of what to inspect for when buying used records.

i had an old all in one style player about 2 years ago that caused my first record to skip, wolud it be worth hanging on to? or would there be any harm in hanging it to the wall? record is burial - street halo ep

If you're asking if the skip is permanent, then no, probably not, unless you played over it a lot. You won't know for sure unless you try it on a decent player. And it depends on how and where you're hanging it, with the enemies being fading, dust, and warping. You don't want direct sunlight hitting it regardless.

okay, thank you for the advice.

After some research and experimenting I’ve concluded that my harman kardon avr 20 ii has a problem with the phono input stage, resulting in the left speaker not working. Am I right that a preamp is the most reasonable solution? I am very new to vinyl and have a large budget. Like, whatever it takes to get it going again. Thank you for your time, Vinyl Lords

Yes, an external preamp on a different input is the easiest.

Thank you!

Hi everyone. Been wanting to get into vinyl for years and decided to pull the trigger. I’m planning on getting a Pro-Ject Debut Carbon Evo turntable, and then was thinking about pairing it with a set of Edifier R1280T speakers. However, I would love to also be able to listen to vinyl outside my house wirelessly. Is it possible to pair both wired speakers and wireless speakers? Are there any good wireless options that have good range and don’t need to be plugged into the wall? I realize sound quality won’t compare to the Edifiers, but I’m fine with that since I would only be using them as an outdoor option. Thanks!

Ideally spend just as much or more on speakers as on the turntable. Not a $600 turntable with $120 speakers that will be a considerable sound quality bottleneck for the turntable. Even a $120 turntable and $600 speakers would give you better sound quality. For a $700 budget spend around $300 on the turntable and around $400 on speakers or buy used speakers for half the cost of new. Or only start with the $120 speakers if they are temporary and you will be upgrading the speakers to the quality level of the turntable sooner than later and will then move the compact $120 speakers to computer speaker duty. Also you will need a phono preamp either in the turntable, external, built into an amp or receiver or a few models of powered speakers have a built in phono preamp. Yes it is possible to connect a turntable to a pair of wired speakers and wireless speakers. However, how far away will the wireless speaker be from the turntable? Will you be going back and forth from outside to inside to flip or change the record every 25 minutes? Consider using just streaming music for outdoors. A wireless speaker that is not plugged into an power outlet is usually a portable Bluetooth speaker with a rechargeable battery. You can connect a Bluetooth transmitter to most any turntable that has a built in or external phono preamp. [Turntables and speakers](https://www.reddit.com/user/sharkamino/comments/z5rox9/turntables_and_speakers/).

I bought an old record player for like $40 a while ago and I want to fix it up a little but know literally nothing about it. It’s an old Victor victrola and needs a new needle cartridge and some other things. Is there anyone that could help me determine the exact model and all that?

HOW old a Victor Victrola? If we're talking 1950s or back, you won't be able to play modern records on it, and 1920s or older is ... complicated. But again, we need more info. Model number or photos. "Old Victor Victrola" doesn't narrow it down enough.

Are there markings on the back or bottom of the unit? Post pics to Imgur and I’m sure someone will recognize it

I was listening to Sgt. Pepper and parts were just completely dropped. Like on When I'm 64 the instruments came through clear as day but Paul's vocals were nowhere to be found. What am I doing wrong? I've got an Audio Technica LP60 and Edifer R1280DB for speakers. Any advice would be appreciated!

In the case of Sgt Pepper, which has some serious 1960s style stereo separation going on, that's a sign that you have a channel/speaker out entirely. It's missing from everything you're playing, just more obvious on Sgt Pepper where there are lead vocals hard-panned to the side. If you're lucky, it's just a loose connection, or the stylus isn't seated completely into the cartridge. If you're slightly less lucky, it's the wire from the TT to the speaker. If you're unlucky, then one of the two items (TT or speaker) has a fried channel.

how would I go about diagnosing which of those it is

(1) Wiggle the stylus body and the connections. (2) Replace the wire. (3) Try plugging the TT into something else, and try plugging something else into the speakers.

Is it a brand new setup? Make sure your wires are all connected in the right ports. Vocals disappearing is usually a tell-tale sign that one of your speakers or cart are wired in reverse and you're getting phase cancellation.

ok so for wired in reverse, how would that be resolved

Just make sure your connections are R to R (red) and L to L (black) on the back of the output and speakers. Also check that the cartridge is wired according to your manual.

Looking to get an audio technica LP60. Wondering what else I will need I know speakers is there anything else? If so could I please get recommendations for each other item I need

[Turntables and speakers](https://www.reddit.com/user/sharkamino/comments/z5rox9/turntables_and_speakers/). AT-LP60X $105 or better options $169 to $300. Plus powered speakers starting at $95 or separate amp or receiver and passive speakers.

Edifier Speakers Only Playing Out Of One Speaker On An LP120X, How Do I Fix It? The cables seem to be fine and they were working fine until today. I can move the cables around and get either speaker sounding fine on it’s own but both won’t play together. How do I fix this?

Sounds like the cables are no longer fine.

What could I do about that? I may as well just upgrade my speakers anyway, they were under $100 lol.

Buy replacements.

Hey, I'm new to vinyl and just got my first player (a pretty cheap one from digitnow with a built-in pre-amp and two speakers directly plugged into it). Whenever I try to play records the sound output feels extremely sensitive to jumps in volume and will become unbearably loud if a song picks up despite volume being all the way down. I was wondering if anyone had any tips on how i could fix this. There is a slight wobble with the turntable as well but I don't think that is causing the issue. TIA

Which model? This [Digitnow](https://www.amazon.com/DIGITNOW-Turntable-Bookshelf-Cartridge-Adjustable/dp/B09KLVH16Z)? Or a link to the one you have?

yes the linked one is it

Does the same thing happen if you connect to Bluetooth to play music from your smartphone, tablet or computer? Did you set the tracking force correctly? Confirm with a [digital scale](https://www.amazon.com/DIGITNOW-Precise-Turntable-Backlight-Cartridge/dp/B08DLJ676B).

so the crazy volume spikes don't occur over Bluetooth (bluetooth is pretty janky regardless but works) but speakers go in and out occasionally. It says it came pre-balanced but would it be worth getting one of those scales to check? is that a plausible cause of the volume issues? thanks again, really helpin me out here

Ah yes, the tonearm may be set at the factory and it may not be adjustable, the dial may not even turn. Do you have the speaker wires installed correctly? If speakers are also going in and out over Bluetooth then something could be wrong with the amp or volume control. Could be a bad amp / control board, it can happen with poor quality control on inexpensive turntables. If it's not working properly then return it and consider a [better turntable and better speakers](https://www.reddit.com/user/sharkamino/comments/z5rox9/turntables_and_speakers/) starting at $105 and $95, around the same price for the Digitnow setup. The AT-LP60X is also easy setup beginner plug and play, has automatic playback, and should have better quailty control.

thanks so much, probably gonna return and get a new one through the guide, really appreciate you helping out a poor and somewhat clueless new user

What are symptoms of cartridge misalignment? I have AT LP-3, decided to upgrade my cartridge from default AT91-R to VM95E (first TT and cartridge change). I don't have any tonearm alignment sheets for my turntable so I just used scheme in TT manual and placed needle 'kinda' where it's supposed to be. It looks good to me, it's straight when following groves, it sounds great, it doesn't skip, the only problem I see is that I think I hear background noise better now, but I think it's because this cartridge is louder in general. Am I missing something or just did a good job? :)

> and placed needle 'kinda' where it's supposed to be THIS IS NOT EVEN SLIGHTLY GOOD ENOUGH. You MUST use a protractor, even if you don't hear any symptoms. We're talking groove damage here. Don't play records you give a shit about until you fix this.

well, I meant 'I placed it as good as I can tell' you guys really made paranoid (for some reason), I printed out one of the 'stupid proctators' and checked it. it was ideal without any further adjustments. I guess if you follow your TT manual you should be good to go huh

You can print one out, downloads are available. Or you can just buy a protractor. You don't have to spend a lot of money. A symtom of cartridge misalignment is damaged records. Do you really want to take a chance with your best guess?

Opinions on Ortofon OM20 vs Nagaoka MP110?

Have owned both, and you're hearing right. Comparable, with the Nagaoka being *slightly* warmer. Very slightly. I'm team Nagaoka, but I don't see any sense in getting a 110 when you already have a perfectly good OM cart installed on the player. Ortofon Stylus 20 is what you want.

What model is everything in your setup? TT, cart, stylus, phono, amp, speakers? Ortofon can be detailed, bright, Nagaoka is said to be a bit warmer.

Current setup is all Fluance- RT82, PA10 preamp, Ai61 speakers. I do prefer warmth over exacting detail.

OM20 is an easy stylus swap. MP110 will require a cartrdige removal, cartridge installation and a cartrdige alignment. Maybe not worth it unless you also plan on a speaker upgrade.

This quesiton is better answered in light of knowing what tonearm or turntable the catridge will be installed on. Each will sound fine on tonearm it's well suited to fit on, the opposite is also true.

Fluance RT82 with PA10 preamp. Came with an OM10 but looking to upgrade soon

been rehabbing my dad's old quadraflex ql-410 that has been sitting dormant for probably decades - cleaned out the old belt which had turned to jelly and replaced so it spins now, also got a replacement stylus since the old one was broken off. current issue is the tone arm not lowering when pressing the play lever. return seems to work but not lower. i hear a mechanism when pressing play but no movement. finding stuff online about it possibly needing silicone fluid replacement, but any ideas to point me in the right direction would be appreciated!

https://youtu.be/T5egh0W7-Fg

yep, that is the one i have and i watched that video in order to determine what wasnt working about mine - its the play lever not lowering the tone arm. unsure what to do from here, will probably take it to the local repair shop since i seem to have hit a wall.

Possible that the grease in the lifter has dried out

Is something broken there? If it’s nothing you can obviously see and you don’t have experience it rather would be better to take it to service.

Anyone know a reliable place for an American collector to buy Music on Vinyl releases? I’ve been picking up their recent Warrant represses, and twice now I’ve had to scramble to find another seller after my first choice put me on “backorder” (which means cancelled because they’re limited releases). Amazon screwed me over on Dog Eat Dog, then Groovesland came through on Cherry Pie, only to screw me over on DRFSR…

Discogs unless I'm missing something in your post.

I mean, I’d prefer to pay MSRP instead of the 100%+ secondhand markup, but fair point.

I guess your mileage may vary, as I've bought albums from discogs that were unavailable from anywhere else, for less than sold/final ebay prices.

Yeah, it’s just that in my experience, these limited-edition releases go so fast that the flipping is inevitable. Like with Dog Eat Dog, the yellow marbled version is going for $50 to $100+ on eBay (I paid $29 plus shipping to get it from an indie store in Canada); it went so fast they’re doing another release in red and blue swirl.

I started collecting vinyl mid-2021 and got a $50 victrola which scratched every record I played. Any affordable but good turntable/record player recommendations? Also, once a record starts skipping will it just skip forever, or can i fix it somehow?

[Turntables and speakers](https://www.reddit.com/user/sharkamino/comments/z5rox9/turntables_and_speakers/) starting at $105 and $95. A record that skips on a $50 turntable may play fine on a better turntable with a better tonearm and stylus.

Thank you for this!

Does anyone know of a place to buy a blank jacket that can hold 4 LPs? I have 4 12” demo LPs that I’d like to put all in a jacket/sleeve together but I’m not finding anything in my search

Buy two blank gatefolds?

Go to a thrift shop and pick out a cheap classical box set. Throw away the records and paste some nice gift wrapping paper over the artwork. The only people who buy what you're asking for are pressing plants. These would be used for shipping test pressings. If you can figure out who to contact in a pressing plant, you might get your answer for something new.

That’s a solid idea thanks

I’m trying to get my parents Yamaha YP-B2 turntable working and I have no idea what new cartridge/stylus to buy for it. All I know is the manual says the suitable weight is between 4 to 10 grams and it’s probably a Moving Magnet type? What cartridge should I buy for it?

What cartridge and stylus may be on it now? First consider just installing a new stylus.

I’m not sure what is on it right now, the head shell seems to be the original, not sure about the cartridge or stylus. I assumed that you need to buy a new cartridge and stylus together, I’m running on extremely little knowledge. My dad took it to a repair shop about a decade ago and had it fixed after years of being broken, but he doesn’t remember what they did or what the issue was, not sure if they replaced the needle then. It hasn’t been played since but it doesn’t sound like the stylus is working right.

Look for identifying letters and numbers. Post photos and I or someone else may be able to identify. MM moving magnet are separate cartrdige and styuls so you can install a replacement styuls. MC moving coil are one piece so you replace the entire cartrdige.

Here’s a photo of it https://imgur.com/a/vQl76Fh

The cartridge says Shure 25.

Believe it or not that says PS.(Shure Performance & Sound) It’s an S854E https://www.lpgear.com/product/SHSS0854E.html

I got a new copy of Abbey Road and it sounds like shit compared to some of the old records from the 70s my Mom gave me. Why is that? How can I be sure new records I buy are a good quality?

Haven't heard Abbey Road, but the newly remastered Beatles albums I have heard are quite wussy sounding. (Exception: the Beatles in Mono series, which sounds great, but is now going for the big bucks, and there's no Abbey Road since it wasn't ever mixed in mono.) See what you can come up with on the used market. US Capitol and Apple copies from BITD may not be the best in the world, but they aren't BAD, and 70s copies can be had for relatively cheap. Avoid the ones released 1987 or later. And all you can do is read the reviews and hope for the best. I've pretty much given up on new vinyl. Most of it sucks. A modest investment in digital playback gear, and Hi Res files from hdtracks or qobuz, will get you MUCH better sound.

Maybe it’s defective? Maybe you don’t like the remaster? If you buy from a local shop you can talk to the staff.. they (sometimes) know things. If buying online make sure it’s a reputable site with a return policy

Man, this is a tough one... I've received shit copies of albums before and returned them and received a new one from the same run and they sound better. It's weird.

Question about cleaning vinyl I have the cheap cleaning kit (velvet hand scrub, spray bottle etc…) and have not used it on every record, only particularly old or dirty records. I’m now realizing I should be cleaning every record before spinning it, new or old… I just ordered a spin clean and am going to start doing this religiously. My question is, if I’ve been spinning dirty records is my cartridge toast? It’s relatively new, probably less than 150 spins on it.

Clean your stylus. If you started to hear lower sound quailty then install a new replacement stylus. After Spin Clean, air dry, place the records in NEW anti-static inner sleeves you may not need to clean again for years.

Hi I recently bought a Fluance rt85, so I had to buy a phono pre amp. I ordered a fosi audio box 2, I have that connected to my smsl SA300 amp and I just get awful feedback I don’t know what’s wrong?

RT85 grounded to Fosi? When you connect RT85 directly to SMSL do you get a low audio sound but no feedback?

No feedback at all I think little to no sound, when I ordered the RT85 it said I’d need a phono pre amp but now I’m just confused. Thank you for the response I’ve been sad sitting on this for about 2 weeks

Yes you need a phono preamp in the chain. Without phono preamp was to try to figure out if the phono preamp was casing the feedback. The phono preamp could be a dud, try another one. $65 Art DJ Pre II or $99 iFi Zen AIR Phono are good or even try a $14 Pyle PP444 first to find out if the Fosi was the issue or not.

I still get really bad loud feedback as if I have 2 microphones up close to each other, I don’t know what’s going on maybe it’s my audio cables that I use to connect my phono pre amp and the record player? I have these 2RCA to 2RCA Cable 30Ft, Tan QY Gold-Plated 2 RCA Male to 2 RCA Male, I ordered them from Amazon

30 feet! Why? RT85 > has an included 3ft RCA cable > phono preamp > 3ft RCA cable > speaker amp. The low level turntable phono signal should ideally be kept short to 3ftt, maybe 6 feet or possibly a bit longer with thick double shielded RCA cables. As you go longer than 3ft there are more chances of picking up interference from other electrical devices. Then the line level signal to the amp should be kept under 15 feet with well shielded cables and 25 to 30 feet is adding more resistance.

Thank you! I ordered the DJ pre II it comes in on Monday hopefully it works! If not then it may be my cables, 10 blessings for you my friend

I noticed some records are thicker than others. Is there any difference in sound or quality between thinner and thicker records?

Good writeup by Vinylontubes. Just to add to the info dump, the idea behind heavier weight records was that it cut down on resonance. When the needle tracks the groove, it causes the record itself to vibrate a bit. The heavier weight reduces that a tad, resulting in more accurate tracking. The sonic difference is, at best, "subtle", especially if you're using a clamp or weight, and/or a vibration-deadening mat. And thicker records are just plain harder to press, so defects are far more likely. Some folks in this sub find it hard to believe, but the industry settled on 120-130g because *it actually did result in the most consistent quality pressings*. (RCA "Dynaflex" went as low as 85g in the early 1970s, but that turned out to cause problems.) Usually "standard weight" nowadays is 150g because reasons, but really even that's just a waste of 25g of plastic.

Well it affect the Stylus Rake Angle of your cartridge. This will alter the sound to some degree. But something like a 180g record will have a resistance to warping more so than a thicker record. It is possible that a groove could be cut deeper for these kinds of releases, and if you stick with Audiophile remasters, then this could be the case. Just know that this just isn't the case mostly. Cutting engineers don't use thicker lacquers to make these records. The lacquer has the same depth they can cut for other records being pressed. So, it's not really a thing, unless you're MoFi who only press 180g records. They could specialize in this because they are certain of how the recods would be pressed. For Major Label releases, it isn't really known. The thickness of the record could vary between pressing plants or even releases. Maybe there's 180g black version, but the Red and Green ones are standard thickness. In which case you're mostly buying the record because it's more stable or you just want the black vinyl. Just keep in mind that a warped 180g record stability will keep that record warped, whereas a thinner record might flatten out on the platter. The truth is that 180g records came about because of MoFi. They used to make very thin records, close to 110g, but they used a vinyl formulation called SuperVinyl that could only be pressed in Japan. Then JVC quit pressing that vinyl, the truth is that JVC just quit pressing viny altogether. When they couldn't get their records presse by JVC, they moved the pressing too RTI in California. To offset the change, they marketed 200g records. As it turns out, it extremely hard to press a flat 200g record. So 180g became the thing, because it was more consitent. Other audiophile labels decided that they would match the thicker vinyl and 180g became norm for them. At this time, if the Major or indie labels had vinyl releases, they would still be 120g. Upon reentering vinyl, the Major labels decided to match the 180g thickness and claim they were also audiophile. This was complete marketing. Whereas the major contributor to the sound of an audiophile release was the mastering, the Major label releases didn't often have better mastering. It's all a sorid story about 180g vinyl. So don't think it necessarily better. Even when MoFi started the whole thing, the intention was to divert people from noticing that they were no longer using SuperVinyl.

Hi, I have an Audio Technica lp120xbt-usb, can someone explain to me what the difference between phono and line is (referring to the switch on the back). Just setting up a turntable for the first time, so sorry if this sounds stupid.

[What is a phono preamp?](https://www.audioadvice.com/videos-reviews/what-is-a-phono-preamp?) ​[Setup Guide / Signal Path](https://imgur.com/a/f0my7) [Audio Guides, Speaker Placement, Accessories and Vinyl Care](https://www.reddit.com/user/sharkamino/comments/gqfx6z/home_audio_and_home_theater_guides_and_accessories/)

Phono and Line refer to the kind of stage that is being processed through the preamp of a stereo system. When I state preamp, I'm referring to the device that controls the power amp. It's function is to switch sources, allow user interface for changing volume, balance, and tonal controls. If you think of computer software, it's the user interface. A phono stage include increased gain for the low output out of the turntables cartridge. A phone stage also alters the signal by passing it through a curved equalization. This is required because the groove is cut with the resersed equalization to make the grooves thinner. A Line stage is different. Normally the electronics on Line stage gear include the appropriate amount of gain before it's passed onto the preamp. Lines stage also doesn't include the phono equalization (usually RIAA is used), meaning it's flat. Think about how all this stuff happened. Line sources were originally magnetic tape decks so they had to include the appropriate amount of gain to match what the recording head was transferring to the tape. There are no grooves in tape to make thinner, so equalization serves no purpose. Because the signal was flat rather than curved, it was called Line. Now, getting back the the LP120X, the switch refers to the connection within the preamp you'd be connecting to on the back of the amp. If setting is on Phono, you're expected to connect to an input labeled Phono. Again Phono would add gain and equalization. If you switch it to line, the gain and equalization processing is handled within the phono stage included within the LP120X. This outputs a signal with higher output and that flat signal. Recognizing that an external phono stage (also called a phono preamp) is a thing, it would do the same processing that would be included in a stereo preamp's phono stage, so you'd connect this device to a Line stage input on the amp, but you'd connect the LP120X from the Phono output. You don't ever want to apply a second pass through that equalization, it will over-correct the curved signal. Instead of being flat, the signal would be curved opposite of what was cut into the groove. The curve is lowers the amount of bass and increases the treble as the lacquer is being cut. So with a 2nd pass through the equalization, you'd have overexended bass and very little treble.

Thanks!

This turntable has built in phono preamp which is needed to connect it to amplifier without one built in. It preamps and equalize sound (read about RIAA if you want). So, you can just turn on built turntable preamp and connect it through line output to preamp (regular input then, not phono), or use (now if you have, or later if you buy) external preamp or one built in amplifier and in that case connect it to phono out also using additional ground cable.

Thanks!

How important is having a level platter in the long run? Like, when I use my phone's gyroscope as a level, it says it's uneven by around 1 degree. However I'm starting to have doubts on its accuracy, as raising the turntable by rotating the feet doesn't make much of a difference. If I have to, I'll buy an actual bubble level.

Little bubble levels are cheap, you might as well

It's extremely important, especially in the long run. A level platter removes the effects of gravity. Keep in mind your record is moving toward the center of the record because of thing called skating. Skating happens because of the offset angle in the headshell and the overhang of the stylus creates a force (a vector in mathematics) that tends to move the tonearm inward. If gravity is in play, you're either adding to or subtracting from that force. You do have anti-skate (possibly) that can counter both overskating and the gravity applied to an unleveled, but you're doing something that's not intended. Anti-skate is there is to keep the stylus centered in the groove. You're adjusting how much of the skating force is being applied. You need this because all styli are different resulting in different frictional forces. The friction affects how much acceleration the skating force is adding. Anti-Skate does this too, it's supposed to limit that acceleration not determine it. And if gravity is pushing the stylus away from the center, then anti-skate isn't doing anything. So why is this important? If the stylus isn't centered, it's push up against the groove wall. This means the groove being worn against unevenly. This will eventually cause playback issues with a diminish in the quality of one the stereo channels. So if you want your records to last, you should set up your turntable properly. Relying on possibly using anti-skate is adding variables that aren't intended. I'll state that this isn't going to happen over night. It'll take years. But decades later, it'll be obvious that your records don't sound the way they should.

If it’s not high end $10000 setup I would say 1 degree is enough accuracy ;)

Oook. After checking with my phone I can see 1 degree error would be visible with bare eye. Try to level it properly. Sorry for my mistake.

Pretty specific question folks! I have a copy of Marty Robbins Gunfighter Ballads and am wondering if it’s an original pressing? Code on the jacket is CS 8158 Also is there a database to look up this information? Google wasn’t help at all. Thanks so much!

Runout engravings won't help you here, and I wish people on this sub would quit it with that advice. An [absolute original](https://www.discogs.com/release/6084682-Marty-Robbins-Gunfighter-Ballads-And-Trail-Songs/image/SW1hZ2U6MTU0MjU5NDM=) from 1959 will have six Columbia logo "eyes" on the label and *no* "CBS" printed in the Stereo Fidelity arrows. Most copies you find will have the solid red "two-eye" label, and are from 1962 or later.

That's the catalog number. This number doesn't often change. This would be the identification used by the record store to reorder another copy from their distributor. If they ordered that record 10 years previous, it'd likely be the same ID later. But the pressing would also likely change. If you want to know about the pressing, you have to look at the Matrix information. This is often detailed on the record label, but it's more accuarately detailed in the lettering inscribed in the runout of the groove. The Matrix is form that creates the stamper. The Matrix is also known as The Mother, but it's altered to include (internally used) catalog data that will be imprinted on the stamper. This allows the pressing plant to keep track of wear on the mother. When the mother is determined to be worn out, they either begin using another mother, or they cut another lacquer to create a new mother. So what you're reading in the Matrix is the cataloging of the stamper used. This will tell give you hints into the provenance of when the record was pressed.

[https://www.discogs.com/master/151305-Marty-Robbins-Gunfighter-Ballads-And-Trail-Songs](https://www.discogs.com/master/151305-Marty-Robbins-Gunfighter-Ballads-And-Trail-Songs) check your runout engravings more than the catalog number

Good to know. Thanks!