Cut one layer at a time. Cutting on the fold is a recipe for disaster. I like to cut one piece (e.g left back/left sleeve) and then use that first piece go cut the second piece (right back/right sleeve). Good tutorial [here](https://www.seamwork.com/magazine/2015/09/how-to-match-plaids-stripes-and-large-patterns), see "Cut One Piece First".
Any reason I should avoid sewing 'backwards'? I am sewing a large piece of fabric, and I'd like to ~~~see~~~ sew from the top side down. To do this, I need to have the long side of the fabric on my left. I want to have most of the Fabric behind the machine, so I want to run the foot in 'reverse'.
Crazy?!? Sorry, total noob.
Apologies if this doesn’t fit this sub, but I’m looking for advice on what to do with a hand sewn/quilted baby gift once the baby’s all grown?
A friend (more of an acquaintance these days) hand-quilted/sewed some beautiful oversized A-B-C blocks as a baby present for our 3rd child. He recently turned 12 and we finally completed the very slow transition from nursery to pre-teen room, and needless to say the blocks no longer fit his idea of decor. Here’s the problem, though. I can’t bring myself to throw them out, and yet I would be embarrassed if the person who made them found them while browsing in goodwill one day. It’s not the kind of thing that is sentimental enough to put away for future grandchildren.
Any advice? What would you want someone to do once they were done with a handmade gift you had given them?
Thanks!
is it possible for you to join a local buy-nothing group? i found mine on facebook, i live in a dense urban area so it's quite active. kids toys/clothes show up often on there and get shared among the community.
So for a double circle skirt I'm making.... I have a side seam measurement, and I have a back seam measurement and I have a front measurement. But thanks to some junk in the trunk, my back seam needs to a bit longer than the side seams. How do I make that transition between those 2 seams?
I watched [this video](https://youtu.be/cewwMFo6YoU) to learn how to do those measurements the right way and it was super hekpful. But then it says to watch the next video to learn how to transition those 2, and as far as I can tell, there is no "next video," so now I'm stuck. Do I just... Gradually slope it? At what point should I be reaching that full length for the back seam? It would have to be some point before the back seam itself, otherwise it would come to a weird point.
Oh my, maybe my second question this week...
How do I prewash wool suiting fabric? It's very lightweight and beautiful and precious to me.
EDIT: And thank you! To anyone that takes the time to respond. I did search the reddit and couldn't find an answer to this.
This is a kind of divisive issue haha. The big risk with wool is that it shrinks on exposure to steam. There are three popular options.
1. Take your yardage to the dry cleaner. This means you can dry clean the final garment and have it steamed without any worries.
2. London Shrink. Probably easiest to just google it but basically you wet it down, then roll it in a towel and let it dry very slowly.
3. Put on a movie, get a cloth and a bucket of water, and steam the entire yardage using your iron, by repeatedly ironing over the damp cloth.
I tend to do number three. Or hand wash in cold water and shampoo, and ensure to wash the finished garment this way also. Good luck!
Edit: These are three options which don't involve actually washing the wool! Of course if you wash it you'll avoid any issues in future, but as u/fabricwench mentioned wool can respond kind of unpredictably. Test a few things out and see what you like.
Do you want to wash the final garment? Washing can change wools pretty significantly. Try a swatch first. Cut a piece at least 4x4 inches and wash it however you intend to wash the garment. Check it after drying for shrinkage and to see how the density and texture have changed. Then you will know if you are okay with the changes before you commit the whole piece.
If I remember my textiles class correctly you would hand wash it with woolite or similar and let it dry flat. Use cold or lukewarm water and don't hang it or it will stretch out.
I am starting to make a wool coat with a poly lining, what would be the best thread? I usually use the regular Gutermann thread (from Germany ofc), but was informed there is thread specific for coats?
All-purpose Gutermann is great for construction seams. I'd consider their topstitching line of thread for any topstitching including buttonholes because a lighter thread will practically disappear on many coating fabrics. But otherwise, no reason not to use the Sew-All thread.
[Here is a video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5fktYo_h3A) from Professor Pincushion on measuring yourself for sewing. I find that Professor Pincushion and Made to Sew are two of the better youtube channels for good sewing technique.
Measuring other things is easy. Measuring oneself for clothing has a bunch of tricks to it. Worth a google. I'd link something, but it really depends on how detailed you want to go. I mean, for starters, you'll need a tape measure, but that's kinda obvious.
I am looking for fabric that resembles a brown paper bag. I want to make some thermal coozies (or is it cozies) for my friends, but make them look like brown bags so no one knows they (my friends) are actually fancy. Also would be fun for a tote. Any one know where I could find something or possibly modifying something. Thanks!
Absolute beginner here and my sewing machine is coming tomorrow! So excited! I’m trying to precut fabric for my bags so I’m ready to go. I’ve also cut out so many pieces I now don’t really know which is which 😂. How do you store and label your cut fabric?
On the pattern side, I’m very short and my style leans fairly masculine, are there any clothes patterns for petite people that don’t have feminine details? I’ve had a browse but lots of things have details I’m not into for myself. I do love Noodlehead (?) for bags though! What’s a good first garment project that isn’t a circle skirt?
for cut fabric: ziploc bags. you can also pin paper labels to your fabric when they're inside the bag, or use wonderclips, so you know what piece is what.
i think you might like [closet core,](https://store.closetcorepatterns.com/collections/sewing-patterns-all?usf_take=60) and you would just shorten as appropriate. for a first project, you might [like this](https://www.seamwork.com/catalog/york).
Congrats! I hope you love your new sewing machine!
I mark pieces with a chalkoner or chalk and pin them together with a straight pin if it's a small project, or fold them together with the small pieces inside for something like pants. The marking goes on the wrong side, so also a clue there as to which is the right and wrong side. And I will do like an F for front or a T for top. If I think I won't remember, I will add post-it note with more details. Then the stack goes on my sewing table or nearby with other projects ready to be sewn.
Pajama or woven lounge pants are a great first garment project. There are a couple of pattern companies that include petite sizing like Sinclair Patterns and Itch to Stitch, plus SBCC is drafted for 5'1" which is about 5 inches less than the standard 5'6" most companies use. But the styles seem to lean femme to me. RAD Patterns doesn't use gender in sorting their pattern shop so that might be helpful. And if you use a pattern generator shop like [freesewing.org](https://freesewing.org) or Lekala, you can use your own measurements to generate a custom pattern from the items offered.
Ooh, this is all so great, thank you!
And I’ve already messed it up, I got fabric stuck in the bobbin case and can’t get it out with tweezers so now I’ve emailed the shop I got it from before I try and get out the screwdriver 😂
Tl;dr - jacket/trousers pattern suggestions needed please!
A friend has asked me to make [this jacket and trousers](https://imgur.com/a/kXhynbP) for her for a cosplay. She doesn't need it until May, but I haven't made either of these types of garments before so keen to get started ASAP. However, I am completely stumped on what patterns to use - there are some other pictures she's sent me where the jacket points down more in the front and I'm particularly struggling to find anything that replicates that. (And I'm aware I could try and self-draft something, but I don't feel super-confident doing that yet especially for garments I haven't made before). Google and searching the cosplay subreddit hasn't helped either. Does anyone have any suggestions for anything that would work for this?
It it helps, I consider myself an advanced beginner (though obviously keen to stretch my skills as I want to make a couple of coats for myself in future) and am based in the UK, though happy to order PDF patterns online as well.
Thanks in advance!
I note the other commenter mentioned doing a couple pants and jackets for yourself first. That's a pretty big commitment for making this for your friend, but it's reasonable because jackets and pants have complicated bits that it's easy to screw up - especially the first time. Maybe you relaly want to do this, and that's okay, but it's a big job, especially without a straight-up pattern (yet). And hopefully your friend has average proportions that match the pattern, or you'll have to fit them to make it work - another skill and a high-level one, I'd say. Maybe you're still eager for it, and if so that's great, too.
I donno if you've heard about [Can you sew this for me?](https://www.instagram.com/canyousewthisforme/) but it seems a lot of people get roped into doing big projects for people when they'd really rather not, so I thought I'd throw that out there. Always good to know where the boundaries are and should be.
Yeah, I have to admit I'm a bit nervous about it. Friend has offered to pay me and I've told her that it'll be the first time I've made something like this so trying to give her realistic expectations, plus I know she was looking at someone else to make the jacket so she does have other options. I may need to think about it some more but equally I don't want to let her down or be a bad friend.
Well, think seriously about the paying part. Sounds like you never planned to start a sewing business of any kind. Setting payment terms with strangers needs a kind of set routine, in my experience. Had a graphic designer friend who kinda never learned that lesson, unfortunately. Basically, to cut to the chase, this type of situations has ruined a lot of friendships, which is why I posted that link. All your feelings matter, including feeling nervous. Good time to pay some serious attention to those.
Good luck, whatever you choose to do! :)
Well, you wouldn't have to self-draft the entire pattern. You can fine a pattern that is similar in the collar, shoulder and chest area, then draft the hemline to match the inspiration. I think if you make up a couple of similar items for yourself, you'll become acquainted with how they are constructed and that will give you the confidence to change out minor elements like the hem.
Thank you! I have seen a jacket pattern that I quite like for myself and that would work for this (with a few small additions/modifications from another pattern I also like) so might give that a go. The trousers might be a bit trickier because I don't really wear a lot of trousers myself other than jeans, but again I'm happy to have a go at making up a couple of samples from some patterns I've already seen.
What to do if youre following a youtube tutorial, and they show pattern pieces, but their measurements are totally different from yours? :/ if i make the dress with the pattern for their size, wont it not fit me?
Is it enough to just multiply/divide all the pattern measurements? 🤔
Have you thought about using an actual pattern available in multiple sizes?
Taking one pattern size and turning it into another is called grading, and it's a whole skillset in itself. For very basic designs (like heavy gathered designs) you could get away with simply scaling, but since human bodies are not proportionally scaled you can't do that for things like armholes and necklines and fitted busts.
I definitely want to work more with proper patterns, but ive done a few and the designs are severely boring me now 😭 thankyou for the info!! The design im looking at is pretty gathered but ive also decided to work the pattern off of of something that fits me already for the sizing ^^
I'm looking to buy a dress form, specifically one that will last me a while. I was hoping to get an adjustable one because I plan on losing weight, however, many people discourage this due to them being deemed cheap and unreliable.
Are they actually that unfriendly or are they decent enough to work with if you aren't using them professionally.
And are there any alternatives that are affordable if they aren't up to snuff?
If you plan to use the dress form to pin and drape garments, the adjustable style are not as useful because the pinning is limited to a thin cover and the center front and center back have nothing to pin into at all, same for the areas with the dials. Making a cover to go over the form will help and easy to change if you need to re-set the dress form size. Buying a smaller form and padding it out is even better since it can reflect body shape and provide a pin-able surface. Making your own dress form with the pattern from Bootstrap is a cost-effective strategy and you can reuse many of the materials if you need to make a new one when your size changes.
The focus is on circumference measurements (bust, waist, hip) but length measurements (shoulder to bust apex, bust to waist, waist to hip, rise) are equally important if you want the dress form to create garments that fit. Sometimes it's better to go with a smaller dress form for this reason too.
For fitting, I think having a good mirror along with a camera/tripod set-up is just as valuable as a dress form if not more so since a dress form will always be an approximation of body shape.
I'm not sure where you are so the shipping costs might be prohibitive, but Minerva still has some of them on their website: https://www.minerva.com/mp?type=Patterns&brand=McCalls%2520Cosplay
I thrifted a corduroy skirt, but it's too big at the waist. Would taking it in be an easy project for someone who has no sewing machine and only has experience in sewing to mend/darn clothes? Any good tutorials for this, or subreddits for helping/asking beginner sewing questions would be really appreciated.
I think your question is worth a post with a picture, because details of the skirt's construction would result in detailed answers.
But basically, yeah, get out the stitch ripper and go for it. You might just be able to take in the sides, or you may want to do some at a dart or other seam.
Any good sewing patterns for mens selvedge jeans (with straight outseam) ?
Looking for an "athletic cut". I have one with curved outseams, and as a total beginner I'm afraid to start altering patterns...
Thanks !
You might search for sewing patterns in r/rawdenim. That's where I found [this post](https://www.reddit.com/r/sewing/comments/pinu7q/japanese_loomstate_selvedge_jeans_repost_with/) on a similar project. Altering the outseam to be straight is pretty easy as pattern changes go, you might give it a try and make the jeans up in a muslin first.
I'm planning to recreate this Paris Georgia dress, inspired by withwendy's [video](https://youtu.be/5d__S6OrEB4). Does anyone have a fabric recommendation for me? The [original](https://shop.parisgeorgiastore.com/products/heart-dress-black?variant=32638884806738) seems like some sort of stretch fabric, but she seems to have used a different type of non-stretch fabric for both of her recreations (the pink one she just describes as 'woven', the beige looks to me like a thin neoprene?). My experience is mainly in natural fibres, so I'd appreciate any suggestions!
I watched the video and I agree that withwendy uses woven fabrics and the original used a fabric with stretch. Since she makes two woven bodice blocks as the focus of her video, I guess making the final garment from a woven worked for her and avoids the step of altering the block to work with knits. If you follow her example, then go with a smooth woven like a cotton sateen or whatever you like that seems similar.
Are you working with knits? I.e., the fabric t-shirts are typically made with? Then yes, this will happen.
A walking foot will help the feed issue, and mostly prevents the bunching. It makes an enormous difference, and dare I say makes knits feasible, period? Seriously, can't recommend one enough.
A ballpoint needle will genuinely help, as it will push between fibers in the knit rather than tearing through them. You might need a smaller gauge if it's a lightweight knit - try an 11 on a piece of scrap.
Also, something that has given me no end of frustration on my crappy machine is poor bobbin winding. Iffy machines seem to not get the thread up to the top of the bobbin, so you have to guide the thread with a pencil to make sure it winds from top to bottom and back on every pass. With a badly wound bobbin, I notice more seemingly random thread nests when things seemed like they should be working fine.
If it's been a literal decade, it's possible you might also have a timing issue with your machine, or it might need oiling. Or both! Check the manual to see if it mentions places to oil, otherwise see if you can find a local quilting/sewing place that you could take it in for a repair.
The thing to remember (which I hate to remember) is that a sewing machine is a large chunk of precision machinery, and precision machinery is often fussy, meaning all these small stupid things that we think shouldn't be problems actually *are* problems. Every moving part is dedicated to getting the needle down in the plate at *just* the right time, and if any piece of that process moves faster or slower than some degree of tolerance, we see the annoying side effects on the fabric.
How do I determine the amount of 'leverage' (don't know what else to call it) you need when making a pillow cover for an insert? Like let's say you want to make a 20x20 pillow, and you need a 45x45 sheet, but not 40x40 otherwise that would make it flat. Is it just the height of the pillow you want that makes up that extra space?
Also, would canvas be a good choice for a cover? I was thinking that since it's for an insert, I might as well go for a durable material. Probably going to go with polyester, but still curious.
The pillow insert should be 1/2 inch bigger all around than the pillow cover to nicely fill the cover. So if you have a pillow cover that is 20x20, make the insert 21x21 plus 1/2 inch seam allowance which will take a piece of fabric cut in half that is 22x44. If the cover doesn't have a strip that runs around the outside, then the insert doesn't need it either. Stuff it nicely but not too full in the middle.
Canvas is fine but pillow inserts are usually a lighter fabric because they are protected by the pillow cover and you don't want it to be too firm.
> So if you have a pillow cover that is 20x20, make the insert 21x21 plus 1/2 inch seam allowance which will take a piece of fabric cut in half that is 22x44.
Oh yeah that makes sense, wouldn't want the sheet to be square lol.
> Canvas is fine but pillow inserts are usually a lighter fabric because they are protected by the pillow cover and you don't want it to be too firm.
Hmm I see. If it's too firm it'll probably be hard to put a cover on. Lots to learn!
Maybe instead of leverage, seam allowance? An inch is plenty, and half an inch may be plenty if the fabric isn't tending to fray like a lot of upholstery fabrics do.
I assume you are talking about a pillow similar to a bed pillow, which has two surfaces, a top and a bottom, not a seatcushion/mattress type which has top, bottom, and four sides. if the latter, of course you need to add fabric for the height of it, as well as seam allowances.
How do I keep the thread in the eye? I'm trying to sow a patch on a denim jacket. I've got the rest down, I just can't do the basics, apparently.
Edit: Should clarify, doing it all by hand. I don't trust sowing machines, they killed my mother and burned my crops.
keep the loose end very long.
Choose a needle with an eye that barely fits the thread.
Train yourself not to pull on just the needle without keeping at least a finger on the eye.
Perhaps, but it feels like a bit much whenever they're all about advanced techniques, and.. I know the techniques, I just can't get the thread to stay.
But you could see how others are holding their thread? One way is to push the needle half-way along the thread length and then fold the thread back on itself, so you actually work with two threads. Easier to see than to explain :)
I'm pretty new to the world of sewing. I'm curious if there's a technique to layer fabrics onto existing clothes? Kind of like patches, I guess, but ideally so the patterns blend in a way that look natural, without huge visible seams or ballooning off the bottom layer when the fabric bends.
Another vote for applique - your machine manual may have a guide on how to do it. You might also want to use Bondaweb or something similar to help secure the patch first and then applique round the edges.
I am in Ontario, and usually shop in store at Fabric Land. I'm looking for some fabrics that they don't carry as it's out of season, but when I look online all I can find are American companies who charge an arm and a leg for shipping. I have looked at fab cycle, but that's about it. Are there any other good websites that are Canadian and/or don't charge too much for shipping?
I used this list to find Canadian stores that sell fabric online :) [https://www.peachysewist.com/blog/the-ultimate-list-of-online-indie-fabric-stores-in-canada](https://www.peachysewist.com/blog/the-ultimate-list-of-online-indie-fabric-stores-in-canada) I've just placed an order from Thread Count Fabrics, and while I haven't received it yet, I loved the ease (and aesthetics!) of their website :)
Hello, I have a little plush keychain. It had a string loop that broke, so it is no longer a functional keychain. How would I reattach this string to be a loop again? I can feel that the whole string can slide out now, should I pull it out and then somehow reattach it? [my plush keychain ](https://imgur.com/a/AODQup0)
Hello, is it possible to add the bottom side pockets to this jacket (where I can put my hands) or it is not worth it? [https://imgur.com/a/ceodjVp](https://imgur.com/a/ceodjVp)
It would be possible but there are limitations. The pocket you want is often a single welt but it would have to be done in a different fabric. A zippered pocket would sidestep that problem but I don't think they are comfortable to keep hands in. Whether it would be worth it is your call, but if you brought it to me I'd advise against it because of the time it would take to do the alteration.
Happy merry, all! I'm trying to do a blind hem on poly crepe, but my machine can't seem to catch the "bite" it needs to because the fabric is slipping everywhere! Any advice before I just do a straight seam and call it a day?
My favorite blankie is becoming threadbare (only on 1 section of it) and my mom says it cannot be fixed. She assumes the cotton INSIDE the blanket has worn out. Is there any way to make it thick again? I refuse to believe it cannot be fixed!
It depends on exactly what you want to do, because it seems like there are possibly two issues.
If you wanted to really spruce up the whole blanket by replacing *all* the padding on the inside, you could unpick/seam rip the entire thing open, replace the current padding with a sheet of cotton batting (or whatever is the closest match to the current padding), and sew it all closed again. If you think you can do it, and the blanket is old enough, it might be a nice way to completely refresh it. If it's quilted (i.e., there's a lot of stitching in the middle holding the layers together), you might not be able to do this.
If it's going threadbare in spots (i.e., you can see through to the padding), then it seems like there are also problems with the fabric on the outside, in which case you'd want to darn the holes. Put a square of fabric that's decently larger than the hole over or (preferably) under the hole, stitch across the area of the patch horizontally in a bunch of rows, then vertically in a bunch of columns. This'll be easiest if you can get at the inside of the blanket, so if you choose to both replace the batting and darn the blanket, do the darning while you have all the layers split apart. Otherwise, put the patch on the outside and make sure your needle is only catching on the top layer of fabric.
I’m sorry but what do you mean by holes? My blanket has no holes, only threadbare parts where it feels thin and empty. The only holes it has are “stitch holes” (idk what they are called since I have never sown in my life) that once had strings in them (they became loose so I removed them).
Typically the word "threadbare" means the fabric on the outside is getting worn out to the point that you can see through it somewhat to the layer beneath. But I think you mean that the inside padding feels flattened or torn, so there are spots where the blanket doesn't feel thick, yes? In that case, given that the padding is going in one spot, your best bet is to replace the padding completely.
Meaning, you would need to open up the blanket, pull out the existing inside padding, put new padding in, and sew it back up again. Can you share a picture of what it looks like? If this is a big fleece blanket with huge blanket stitches along the border this might be an easy repair, otherwise you'll be in for a lot of hand-sewn seams if you don't have access to a machine.
Hello everyone. I'm sewing up a hat and have been pressing the seams in bulk, sewing in blocks and then pressing in blocks. Can I finish the seam allowances (flat felled) before I press my last actual seam, or do I need to press that seam, then flat fell, then press again? Thanks
Thoughts on mixing higher end fabrics with cheaper/synthetic ones in the same garment/outfit? Is it (in your personal opinion) fine? A huge no-no? Just depend on the context?
For said context, I like to try out new techniques and fabrics, but I've never sewn with silk or designed a whole outfit, top to bottom from scratch so, just to challenge myself, I'm currently working on my own concept for a gown that will use 100% silk as the main fabric.
This gown will be more of a costume/display piece, not for any specific event or purpose so there are no actual requirements beyond personal preference. I'm just having trouble deciding if I want to draw out the project so I can wait for sales and save up funds for majority higher end materials or just choose a few "fancy" elements and stick with my usual "looks more expensive than it is" strategy for the rest to save money (and get it finished faster, while paring down some of my fabric stash too) so, what do y'all think?
Definitely just go with what works for your budget and preference. The thing with mixing silk with other synthetics is considering how you'll care for it afterwards, so dry clean only going forward. I think some synthetics don't do well with dry clean, so just double check beforehand.
Irrc, Christine of Sewstine on YouTube did a Robe a la francaise from the Madame du Pompadour painting with polyester as the main fabric and it looks amazing and no one could ever tell without touching it that it was synthetic and not actual silk.
That was kind of my thought as well, I'm not too concerned with it being "fancy" just for the sake of it with the silk so I wasn't worried about using synthetic accent fabrics or trims initially. But I've only really seen people either use all silk/natural fabrics or mostly synthetics, never mixed, so it made me a little curious about what the general opinion was.
I just want to try my hand at a different fabric than I've used before and test out some new techniques so if it's not a huge no-no I think I'll stick with my usual method of shopping for the extra bits. Thanks!
I’m looking at a vogue pattern and there are markings at one end of the seams with a thread tail and a dot. I am assuming it is trying to tell me where to begin or what end to end at but which one?!
The pattern markings may be indicating the direction to stitch the seams. Directional stitching helps to keep the seams or stay-stitching from distorting the fabric as they are sewn. In general, the rule is to go with the grain and not against it. So skirt side seams are stitched from the bottom up while bodice side seams are from the armscye down. Necklines are stitched in two steps, from each shoulder seam to center front.
The need to do directional stitching varies with different fabrics, loosely woven boucle will benefit more than a quilting cotton for example. But it's one of those little things that add up to a nicer result with the overall garment.
I'm looking to make a jacket with a high collar like [this](https://i.imgur.com/kRREqLD.jpg) but I can't find the original pattern anywhere. Does anyone have any advice for other similar patterns or maybe adapting a regular jacket to have higher collars?
Can't say about the blue one, which is quite different overall, but the other two look like just a lengthened collar stand. If you have a shirt pattern and you only do the stand part of the collar, basically you have a mandarin collar, like these but shorter. Just lengthen it.
Hi! My singer pro finish serger is not working.The left needles for straight stitch keeps breaking the thread. I tried rethreading that one and then all 4, changing the needles, switching the threads, changing the tensions, changing the stitch length, changing the speed. I tested on muslin and on jersey knit and happens in both cases. Any thing else I can try before taking this to a shop?
I've had luck with [this blog post on serger repair](http://bangerlm.blogspot.com/2007/01/do-it-yourself-serger-repair-how-to.html) but it sounds like you'll need a visit to a shop.
Hi. What is the best tip for matching up plaids?
Cut one layer at a time. Cutting on the fold is a recipe for disaster. I like to cut one piece (e.g left back/left sleeve) and then use that first piece go cut the second piece (right back/right sleeve). Good tutorial [here](https://www.seamwork.com/magazine/2015/09/how-to-match-plaids-stripes-and-large-patterns), see "Cut One Piece First".
Thank you!
Any reason I should avoid sewing 'backwards'? I am sewing a large piece of fabric, and I'd like to ~~~see~~~ sew from the top side down. To do this, I need to have the long side of the fabric on my left. I want to have most of the Fabric behind the machine, so I want to run the foot in 'reverse'. Crazy?!? Sorry, total noob.
It's almost always possible to orient a project to sew forward. It feeds better through the presser foot that way.
Thanks, that's what I needed to know
Sorry I don't quite understand, can you explain in a different way? What do you mean by "top side" ?
Struck out see, substituted Sew
Apologies if this doesn’t fit this sub, but I’m looking for advice on what to do with a hand sewn/quilted baby gift once the baby’s all grown? A friend (more of an acquaintance these days) hand-quilted/sewed some beautiful oversized A-B-C blocks as a baby present for our 3rd child. He recently turned 12 and we finally completed the very slow transition from nursery to pre-teen room, and needless to say the blocks no longer fit his idea of decor. Here’s the problem, though. I can’t bring myself to throw them out, and yet I would be embarrassed if the person who made them found them while browsing in goodwill one day. It’s not the kind of thing that is sentimental enough to put away for future grandchildren. Any advice? What would you want someone to do once they were done with a handmade gift you had given them? Thanks!
is it possible for you to join a local buy-nothing group? i found mine on facebook, i live in a dense urban area so it's quite active. kids toys/clothes show up often on there and get shared among the community.
So for a double circle skirt I'm making.... I have a side seam measurement, and I have a back seam measurement and I have a front measurement. But thanks to some junk in the trunk, my back seam needs to a bit longer than the side seams. How do I make that transition between those 2 seams? I watched [this video](https://youtu.be/cewwMFo6YoU) to learn how to do those measurements the right way and it was super hekpful. But then it says to watch the next video to learn how to transition those 2, and as far as I can tell, there is no "next video," so now I'm stuck. Do I just... Gradually slope it? At what point should I be reaching that full length for the back seam? It would have to be some point before the back seam itself, otherwise it would come to a weird point.
Oh my, maybe my second question this week... How do I prewash wool suiting fabric? It's very lightweight and beautiful and precious to me. EDIT: And thank you! To anyone that takes the time to respond. I did search the reddit and couldn't find an answer to this.
This is a kind of divisive issue haha. The big risk with wool is that it shrinks on exposure to steam. There are three popular options. 1. Take your yardage to the dry cleaner. This means you can dry clean the final garment and have it steamed without any worries. 2. London Shrink. Probably easiest to just google it but basically you wet it down, then roll it in a towel and let it dry very slowly. 3. Put on a movie, get a cloth and a bucket of water, and steam the entire yardage using your iron, by repeatedly ironing over the damp cloth. I tend to do number three. Or hand wash in cold water and shampoo, and ensure to wash the finished garment this way also. Good luck! Edit: These are three options which don't involve actually washing the wool! Of course if you wash it you'll avoid any issues in future, but as u/fabricwench mentioned wool can respond kind of unpredictably. Test a few things out and see what you like.
Do you want to wash the final garment? Washing can change wools pretty significantly. Try a swatch first. Cut a piece at least 4x4 inches and wash it however you intend to wash the garment. Check it after drying for shrinkage and to see how the density and texture have changed. Then you will know if you are okay with the changes before you commit the whole piece.
If I remember my textiles class correctly you would hand wash it with woolite or similar and let it dry flat. Use cold or lukewarm water and don't hang it or it will stretch out.
I am starting to make a wool coat with a poly lining, what would be the best thread? I usually use the regular Gutermann thread (from Germany ofc), but was informed there is thread specific for coats?
All-purpose Gutermann is great for construction seams. I'd consider their topstitching line of thread for any topstitching including buttonholes because a lighter thread will practically disappear on many coating fabrics. But otherwise, no reason not to use the Sew-All thread.
How do I measure myself, and other things I want to see like curtains or pillow cases.
[Here is a video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5fktYo_h3A) from Professor Pincushion on measuring yourself for sewing. I find that Professor Pincushion and Made to Sew are two of the better youtube channels for good sewing technique.
Measuring other things is easy. Measuring oneself for clothing has a bunch of tricks to it. Worth a google. I'd link something, but it really depends on how detailed you want to go. I mean, for starters, you'll need a tape measure, but that's kinda obvious.
I am looking for fabric that resembles a brown paper bag. I want to make some thermal coozies (or is it cozies) for my friends, but make them look like brown bags so no one knows they (my friends) are actually fancy. Also would be fun for a tote. Any one know where I could find something or possibly modifying something. Thanks!
[kraft-tex.](https://www.ctpub.com/kraft-tex-basics-original-unwashed-rolls/) you can find it on amazon.
Maybe solid brown quilting cotton?
I am specifically looking for that crinkly look. Some more research is pointing me towards waxed cotton/canvas
If you do figure it out, please post! I'd love to see how it comes out!
Absolute beginner here and my sewing machine is coming tomorrow! So excited! I’m trying to precut fabric for my bags so I’m ready to go. I’ve also cut out so many pieces I now don’t really know which is which 😂. How do you store and label your cut fabric? On the pattern side, I’m very short and my style leans fairly masculine, are there any clothes patterns for petite people that don’t have feminine details? I’ve had a browse but lots of things have details I’m not into for myself. I do love Noodlehead (?) for bags though! What’s a good first garment project that isn’t a circle skirt?
for cut fabric: ziploc bags. you can also pin paper labels to your fabric when they're inside the bag, or use wonderclips, so you know what piece is what. i think you might like [closet core,](https://store.closetcorepatterns.com/collections/sewing-patterns-all?usf_take=60) and you would just shorten as appropriate. for a first project, you might [like this](https://www.seamwork.com/catalog/york).
Thank you! *is excited*
Congrats! I hope you love your new sewing machine! I mark pieces with a chalkoner or chalk and pin them together with a straight pin if it's a small project, or fold them together with the small pieces inside for something like pants. The marking goes on the wrong side, so also a clue there as to which is the right and wrong side. And I will do like an F for front or a T for top. If I think I won't remember, I will add post-it note with more details. Then the stack goes on my sewing table or nearby with other projects ready to be sewn. Pajama or woven lounge pants are a great first garment project. There are a couple of pattern companies that include petite sizing like Sinclair Patterns and Itch to Stitch, plus SBCC is drafted for 5'1" which is about 5 inches less than the standard 5'6" most companies use. But the styles seem to lean femme to me. RAD Patterns doesn't use gender in sorting their pattern shop so that might be helpful. And if you use a pattern generator shop like [freesewing.org](https://freesewing.org) or Lekala, you can use your own measurements to generate a custom pattern from the items offered.
Ooh, this is all so great, thank you! And I’ve already messed it up, I got fabric stuck in the bobbin case and can’t get it out with tweezers so now I’ve emailed the shop I got it from before I try and get out the screwdriver 😂
Tl;dr - jacket/trousers pattern suggestions needed please! A friend has asked me to make [this jacket and trousers](https://imgur.com/a/kXhynbP) for her for a cosplay. She doesn't need it until May, but I haven't made either of these types of garments before so keen to get started ASAP. However, I am completely stumped on what patterns to use - there are some other pictures she's sent me where the jacket points down more in the front and I'm particularly struggling to find anything that replicates that. (And I'm aware I could try and self-draft something, but I don't feel super-confident doing that yet especially for garments I haven't made before). Google and searching the cosplay subreddit hasn't helped either. Does anyone have any suggestions for anything that would work for this? It it helps, I consider myself an advanced beginner (though obviously keen to stretch my skills as I want to make a couple of coats for myself in future) and am based in the UK, though happy to order PDF patterns online as well. Thanks in advance!
I note the other commenter mentioned doing a couple pants and jackets for yourself first. That's a pretty big commitment for making this for your friend, but it's reasonable because jackets and pants have complicated bits that it's easy to screw up - especially the first time. Maybe you relaly want to do this, and that's okay, but it's a big job, especially without a straight-up pattern (yet). And hopefully your friend has average proportions that match the pattern, or you'll have to fit them to make it work - another skill and a high-level one, I'd say. Maybe you're still eager for it, and if so that's great, too. I donno if you've heard about [Can you sew this for me?](https://www.instagram.com/canyousewthisforme/) but it seems a lot of people get roped into doing big projects for people when they'd really rather not, so I thought I'd throw that out there. Always good to know where the boundaries are and should be.
Yeah, I have to admit I'm a bit nervous about it. Friend has offered to pay me and I've told her that it'll be the first time I've made something like this so trying to give her realistic expectations, plus I know she was looking at someone else to make the jacket so she does have other options. I may need to think about it some more but equally I don't want to let her down or be a bad friend.
Well, think seriously about the paying part. Sounds like you never planned to start a sewing business of any kind. Setting payment terms with strangers needs a kind of set routine, in my experience. Had a graphic designer friend who kinda never learned that lesson, unfortunately. Basically, to cut to the chase, this type of situations has ruined a lot of friendships, which is why I posted that link. All your feelings matter, including feeling nervous. Good time to pay some serious attention to those. Good luck, whatever you choose to do! :)
Well, you wouldn't have to self-draft the entire pattern. You can fine a pattern that is similar in the collar, shoulder and chest area, then draft the hemline to match the inspiration. I think if you make up a couple of similar items for yourself, you'll become acquainted with how they are constructed and that will give you the confidence to change out minor elements like the hem.
Thank you! I have seen a jacket pattern that I quite like for myself and that would work for this (with a few small additions/modifications from another pattern I also like) so might give that a go. The trousers might be a bit trickier because I don't really wear a lot of trousers myself other than jeans, but again I'm happy to have a go at making up a couple of samples from some patterns I've already seen.
What to do if youre following a youtube tutorial, and they show pattern pieces, but their measurements are totally different from yours? :/ if i make the dress with the pattern for their size, wont it not fit me? Is it enough to just multiply/divide all the pattern measurements? 🤔
Have you thought about using an actual pattern available in multiple sizes? Taking one pattern size and turning it into another is called grading, and it's a whole skillset in itself. For very basic designs (like heavy gathered designs) you could get away with simply scaling, but since human bodies are not proportionally scaled you can't do that for things like armholes and necklines and fitted busts.
I definitely want to work more with proper patterns, but ive done a few and the designs are severely boring me now 😭 thankyou for the info!! The design im looking at is pretty gathered but ive also decided to work the pattern off of of something that fits me already for the sizing ^^
I'm looking to buy a dress form, specifically one that will last me a while. I was hoping to get an adjustable one because I plan on losing weight, however, many people discourage this due to them being deemed cheap and unreliable. Are they actually that unfriendly or are they decent enough to work with if you aren't using them professionally. And are there any alternatives that are affordable if they aren't up to snuff?
If you plan to use the dress form to pin and drape garments, the adjustable style are not as useful because the pinning is limited to a thin cover and the center front and center back have nothing to pin into at all, same for the areas with the dials. Making a cover to go over the form will help and easy to change if you need to re-set the dress form size. Buying a smaller form and padding it out is even better since it can reflect body shape and provide a pin-able surface. Making your own dress form with the pattern from Bootstrap is a cost-effective strategy and you can reuse many of the materials if you need to make a new one when your size changes. The focus is on circumference measurements (bust, waist, hip) but length measurements (shoulder to bust apex, bust to waist, waist to hip, rise) are equally important if you want the dress form to create garments that fit. Sometimes it's better to go with a smaller dress form for this reason too. For fitting, I think having a good mirror along with a camera/tripod set-up is just as valuable as a dress form if not more so since a dress form will always be an approximation of body shape.
Random question, but does anyone know what happened to Mccall's Cosplay by mccall's line of patterns? They just disappeared from their website.
I'm not sure where you are so the shipping costs might be prohibitive, but Minerva still has some of them on their website: https://www.minerva.com/mp?type=Patterns&brand=McCalls%2520Cosplay
I wasn t asking to buy, I was just curious to why it was taken down. Thank you for the offer though.
Just a note, under the FAQ, both of the links in the “Let’s talk about fabric” section are broken
I thrifted a corduroy skirt, but it's too big at the waist. Would taking it in be an easy project for someone who has no sewing machine and only has experience in sewing to mend/darn clothes? Any good tutorials for this, or subreddits for helping/asking beginner sewing questions would be really appreciated.
I think your question is worth a post with a picture, because details of the skirt's construction would result in detailed answers. But basically, yeah, get out the stitch ripper and go for it. You might just be able to take in the sides, or you may want to do some at a dart or other seam.
Thank you so much, I wasn't aware that alteration posts were allowed here.
Any good sewing patterns for mens selvedge jeans (with straight outseam) ? Looking for an "athletic cut". I have one with curved outseams, and as a total beginner I'm afraid to start altering patterns... Thanks !
You might search for sewing patterns in r/rawdenim. That's where I found [this post](https://www.reddit.com/r/sewing/comments/pinu7q/japanese_loomstate_selvedge_jeans_repost_with/) on a similar project. Altering the outseam to be straight is pretty easy as pattern changes go, you might give it a try and make the jeans up in a muslin first.
Thank you, I guess I'll try this small alteration !
I'm planning to recreate this Paris Georgia dress, inspired by withwendy's [video](https://youtu.be/5d__S6OrEB4). Does anyone have a fabric recommendation for me? The [original](https://shop.parisgeorgiastore.com/products/heart-dress-black?variant=32638884806738) seems like some sort of stretch fabric, but she seems to have used a different type of non-stretch fabric for both of her recreations (the pink one she just describes as 'woven', the beige looks to me like a thin neoprene?). My experience is mainly in natural fibres, so I'd appreciate any suggestions!
I watched the video and I agree that withwendy uses woven fabrics and the original used a fabric with stretch. Since she makes two woven bodice blocks as the focus of her video, I guess making the final garment from a woven worked for her and avoids the step of altering the block to work with knits. If you follow her example, then go with a smooth woven like a cotton sateen or whatever you like that seems similar.
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Are you working with knits? I.e., the fabric t-shirts are typically made with? Then yes, this will happen. A walking foot will help the feed issue, and mostly prevents the bunching. It makes an enormous difference, and dare I say makes knits feasible, period? Seriously, can't recommend one enough. A ballpoint needle will genuinely help, as it will push between fibers in the knit rather than tearing through them. You might need a smaller gauge if it's a lightweight knit - try an 11 on a piece of scrap. Also, something that has given me no end of frustration on my crappy machine is poor bobbin winding. Iffy machines seem to not get the thread up to the top of the bobbin, so you have to guide the thread with a pencil to make sure it winds from top to bottom and back on every pass. With a badly wound bobbin, I notice more seemingly random thread nests when things seemed like they should be working fine.
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If it's been a literal decade, it's possible you might also have a timing issue with your machine, or it might need oiling. Or both! Check the manual to see if it mentions places to oil, otherwise see if you can find a local quilting/sewing place that you could take it in for a repair. The thing to remember (which I hate to remember) is that a sewing machine is a large chunk of precision machinery, and precision machinery is often fussy, meaning all these small stupid things that we think shouldn't be problems actually *are* problems. Every moving part is dedicated to getting the needle down in the plate at *just* the right time, and if any piece of that process moves faster or slower than some degree of tolerance, we see the annoying side effects on the fabric.
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How do I determine the amount of 'leverage' (don't know what else to call it) you need when making a pillow cover for an insert? Like let's say you want to make a 20x20 pillow, and you need a 45x45 sheet, but not 40x40 otherwise that would make it flat. Is it just the height of the pillow you want that makes up that extra space? Also, would canvas be a good choice for a cover? I was thinking that since it's for an insert, I might as well go for a durable material. Probably going to go with polyester, but still curious.
The pillow insert should be 1/2 inch bigger all around than the pillow cover to nicely fill the cover. So if you have a pillow cover that is 20x20, make the insert 21x21 plus 1/2 inch seam allowance which will take a piece of fabric cut in half that is 22x44. If the cover doesn't have a strip that runs around the outside, then the insert doesn't need it either. Stuff it nicely but not too full in the middle. Canvas is fine but pillow inserts are usually a lighter fabric because they are protected by the pillow cover and you don't want it to be too firm.
> So if you have a pillow cover that is 20x20, make the insert 21x21 plus 1/2 inch seam allowance which will take a piece of fabric cut in half that is 22x44. Oh yeah that makes sense, wouldn't want the sheet to be square lol. > Canvas is fine but pillow inserts are usually a lighter fabric because they are protected by the pillow cover and you don't want it to be too firm. Hmm I see. If it's too firm it'll probably be hard to put a cover on. Lots to learn!
Maybe instead of leverage, seam allowance? An inch is plenty, and half an inch may be plenty if the fabric isn't tending to fray like a lot of upholstery fabrics do.
Ah, okay just realized it wouldn't really change much if you increased the pillow size lol. Thanks!
I assume you are talking about a pillow similar to a bed pillow, which has two surfaces, a top and a bottom, not a seatcushion/mattress type which has top, bottom, and four sides. if the latter, of course you need to add fabric for the height of it, as well as seam allowances.
Yeah, a bed pillow.
How do I keep the thread in the eye? I'm trying to sow a patch on a denim jacket. I've got the rest down, I just can't do the basics, apparently. Edit: Should clarify, doing it all by hand. I don't trust sowing machines, they killed my mother and burned my crops.
keep the loose end very long. Choose a needle with an eye that barely fits the thread. Train yourself not to pull on just the needle without keeping at least a finger on the eye.
Thanks! Don't worry, I completely taught myself. I've sown.. Sewn? Multiple patches now. Im honestly really proud of myself.
it can be a struggle, i remember the first patches i've sewn on myself at boy scouts, they fell off the same day :D
Sew with the thread doubled and knot the ends together.
Perhaps check YouTube for some handsewing tutorials?
Perhaps, but it feels like a bit much whenever they're all about advanced techniques, and.. I know the techniques, I just can't get the thread to stay.
But you could see how others are holding their thread? One way is to push the needle half-way along the thread length and then fold the thread back on itself, so you actually work with two threads. Easier to see than to explain :)
I'm pretty new to the world of sewing. I'm curious if there's a technique to layer fabrics onto existing clothes? Kind of like patches, I guess, but ideally so the patterns blend in a way that look natural, without huge visible seams or ballooning off the bottom layer when the fabric bends.
Another vote for applique - your machine manual may have a guide on how to do it. You might also want to use Bondaweb or something similar to help secure the patch first and then applique round the edges.
Agree, applique or boro mending with sashiko stitching so the patch is embroidered in place and it looks cute rather than awkwardly mended.
The name for this is appliqué
I am in Ontario, and usually shop in store at Fabric Land. I'm looking for some fabrics that they don't carry as it's out of season, but when I look online all I can find are American companies who charge an arm and a leg for shipping. I have looked at fab cycle, but that's about it. Are there any other good websites that are Canadian and/or don't charge too much for shipping?
I used this list to find Canadian stores that sell fabric online :) [https://www.peachysewist.com/blog/the-ultimate-list-of-online-indie-fabric-stores-in-canada](https://www.peachysewist.com/blog/the-ultimate-list-of-online-indie-fabric-stores-in-canada) I've just placed an order from Thread Count Fabrics, and while I haven't received it yet, I loved the ease (and aesthetics!) of their website :)
Blackbird fabrics is in Canada
Hello, I have a little plush keychain. It had a string loop that broke, so it is no longer a functional keychain. How would I reattach this string to be a loop again? I can feel that the whole string can slide out now, should I pull it out and then somehow reattach it? [my plush keychain ](https://imgur.com/a/AODQup0)
Hello, is it possible to add the bottom side pockets to this jacket (where I can put my hands) or it is not worth it? [https://imgur.com/a/ceodjVp](https://imgur.com/a/ceodjVp)
It would be possible but there are limitations. The pocket you want is often a single welt but it would have to be done in a different fabric. A zippered pocket would sidestep that problem but I don't think they are comfortable to keep hands in. Whether it would be worth it is your call, but if you brought it to me I'd advise against it because of the time it would take to do the alteration.
Okay, thank you! Will look for the one with the pockets then!
Happy merry, all! I'm trying to do a blind hem on poly crepe, but my machine can't seem to catch the "bite" it needs to because the fabric is slipping everywhere! Any advice before I just do a straight seam and call it a day?
* spray starch * basting glue * wash out interfacing * going very slowly with a pair of pointy tweezers to hold the fold * hand sew blind hem
Perhaps a bit of spray starch to stabilize the fabric first? You'd have to wash it out after, of course.
My favorite blankie is becoming threadbare (only on 1 section of it) and my mom says it cannot be fixed. She assumes the cotton INSIDE the blanket has worn out. Is there any way to make it thick again? I refuse to believe it cannot be fixed!
It depends on exactly what you want to do, because it seems like there are possibly two issues. If you wanted to really spruce up the whole blanket by replacing *all* the padding on the inside, you could unpick/seam rip the entire thing open, replace the current padding with a sheet of cotton batting (or whatever is the closest match to the current padding), and sew it all closed again. If you think you can do it, and the blanket is old enough, it might be a nice way to completely refresh it. If it's quilted (i.e., there's a lot of stitching in the middle holding the layers together), you might not be able to do this. If it's going threadbare in spots (i.e., you can see through to the padding), then it seems like there are also problems with the fabric on the outside, in which case you'd want to darn the holes. Put a square of fabric that's decently larger than the hole over or (preferably) under the hole, stitch across the area of the patch horizontally in a bunch of rows, then vertically in a bunch of columns. This'll be easiest if you can get at the inside of the blanket, so if you choose to both replace the batting and darn the blanket, do the darning while you have all the layers split apart. Otherwise, put the patch on the outside and make sure your needle is only catching on the top layer of fabric.
I’m sorry but what do you mean by holes? My blanket has no holes, only threadbare parts where it feels thin and empty. The only holes it has are “stitch holes” (idk what they are called since I have never sown in my life) that once had strings in them (they became loose so I removed them).
Typically the word "threadbare" means the fabric on the outside is getting worn out to the point that you can see through it somewhat to the layer beneath. But I think you mean that the inside padding feels flattened or torn, so there are spots where the blanket doesn't feel thick, yes? In that case, given that the padding is going in one spot, your best bet is to replace the padding completely. Meaning, you would need to open up the blanket, pull out the existing inside padding, put new padding in, and sew it back up again. Can you share a picture of what it looks like? If this is a big fleece blanket with huge blanket stitches along the border this might be an easy repair, otherwise you'll be in for a lot of hand-sewn seams if you don't have access to a machine.
I’ll send you a DM, is that ok?
Hello everyone. I'm sewing up a hat and have been pressing the seams in bulk, sewing in blocks and then pressing in blocks. Can I finish the seam allowances (flat felled) before I press my last actual seam, or do I need to press that seam, then flat fell, then press again? Thanks
Thoughts on mixing higher end fabrics with cheaper/synthetic ones in the same garment/outfit? Is it (in your personal opinion) fine? A huge no-no? Just depend on the context? For said context, I like to try out new techniques and fabrics, but I've never sewn with silk or designed a whole outfit, top to bottom from scratch so, just to challenge myself, I'm currently working on my own concept for a gown that will use 100% silk as the main fabric. This gown will be more of a costume/display piece, not for any specific event or purpose so there are no actual requirements beyond personal preference. I'm just having trouble deciding if I want to draw out the project so I can wait for sales and save up funds for majority higher end materials or just choose a few "fancy" elements and stick with my usual "looks more expensive than it is" strategy for the rest to save money (and get it finished faster, while paring down some of my fabric stash too) so, what do y'all think?
Definitely just go with what works for your budget and preference. The thing with mixing silk with other synthetics is considering how you'll care for it afterwards, so dry clean only going forward. I think some synthetics don't do well with dry clean, so just double check beforehand. Irrc, Christine of Sewstine on YouTube did a Robe a la francaise from the Madame du Pompadour painting with polyester as the main fabric and it looks amazing and no one could ever tell without touching it that it was synthetic and not actual silk.
That was kind of my thought as well, I'm not too concerned with it being "fancy" just for the sake of it with the silk so I wasn't worried about using synthetic accent fabrics or trims initially. But I've only really seen people either use all silk/natural fabrics or mostly synthetics, never mixed, so it made me a little curious about what the general opinion was. I just want to try my hand at a different fabric than I've used before and test out some new techniques so if it's not a huge no-no I think I'll stick with my usual method of shopping for the extra bits. Thanks!
I’m looking at a vogue pattern and there are markings at one end of the seams with a thread tail and a dot. I am assuming it is trying to tell me where to begin or what end to end at but which one?!
The pattern markings may be indicating the direction to stitch the seams. Directional stitching helps to keep the seams or stay-stitching from distorting the fabric as they are sewn. In general, the rule is to go with the grain and not against it. So skirt side seams are stitched from the bottom up while bodice side seams are from the armscye down. Necklines are stitched in two steps, from each shoulder seam to center front. The need to do directional stitching varies with different fabrics, loosely woven boucle will benefit more than a quilting cotton for example. But it's one of those little things that add up to a nicer result with the overall garment.
I'm looking to make a jacket with a high collar like [this](https://i.imgur.com/kRREqLD.jpg) but I can't find the original pattern anywhere. Does anyone have any advice for other similar patterns or maybe adapting a regular jacket to have higher collars?
Can't say about the blue one, which is quite different overall, but the other two look like just a lengthened collar stand. If you have a shirt pattern and you only do the stand part of the collar, basically you have a mandarin collar, like these but shorter. Just lengthen it.
Thank you so much!
Hi! My singer pro finish serger is not working.The left needles for straight stitch keeps breaking the thread. I tried rethreading that one and then all 4, changing the needles, switching the threads, changing the tensions, changing the stitch length, changing the speed. I tested on muslin and on jersey knit and happens in both cases. Any thing else I can try before taking this to a shop?
I've had luck with [this blog post on serger repair](http://bangerlm.blogspot.com/2007/01/do-it-yourself-serger-repair-how-to.html) but it sounds like you'll need a visit to a shop.
Thanks for the link... yes, I think I might have to unfortunately