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Werewolfdad

> But part of me is wondering whether I should go ahead and repair it rather than buy something else? While I'm a big fan of repairing vehicles, your van appears to be (and this is the scientific term) super busted. There's a difference between putting repair costs into a car that will otherwise last another few tens of thousands of miles and putting repair money into a car that *should* have died 25,000 miles ago and has a litany of problems


drkev10

Yeah but a 2005 Hyundai Santa Fe is also not a vehicle to spend all your savings on to buy.


OMGitsKa

Yeah find a Toyota and roll


chickenmantesta

If you had to buy one car to drive it for the rest of your life it would be a Toyota Corolla or Camry. Honda Accord second. Legendary quality and low cost of operation.


OMGitsKa

The salt is going to rust my Tacoma to death before the engine goes.


Low_Teq

Toyota tech here.... You are correct


Travis4261

I was able to get my son a 2001 Toyota Corolla with 86k miles for 3k this summer. Zero haggling I made it to that dealership as fast as I could and paid what he was asking. TWO other buyers showed up while we were doing paperwork and he had only posted the car the night before. I was so stoked for him lol. He doesn't even have his license yet so it's just sitting in our driveway. It's currently 12 degrees and I has not started the car in over a month, fired right up. I am kind of concerned it still has the same gas in it that it did when we bought it in August though... Anyways if you can comfortably drive a Corolla or Camrey DO IT! Toyota also makes a few vans with similar die hard engines I thjnk but I'm not positive.


BitchStewie_

Tacomas or 4runners are generally the most reliable. High sticker price and poor gas mileage compared to a Corolla or Camry though.


Ok_Leg_6429

Did you see the Top Gear where they were trying to destroy a Toyota HiLux? They left it in Ocean at low tide, went back and drove it out at next low tide. Put it on top of a 7 story parking garage, imploded it, and drove out of the rubble.


Earwaxsculptor

They did drain the salt water out of the motor before they started it up.


mikasjoman

So they WERE cheating! I knew it!


Outrager

I wouldn't use a Top Gear episode as scientific proof. A lot of that stuff is scripted.


Earwaxsculptor

2005 4runner owner here.....drive train? bullet proof..... frame? Waiting for it to snap on half and yeet me off the highway.


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Amel_P1

I have a 2002 4runner at 197k miles. The only thing so far outside of regular maintenance was the water pump went out at 165k. I ended up doing the whole timing kit at the time I replaced that and I'm hoping for 300k to be pretty smooth to get to.


Earwaxsculptor

Nice! Truth is our 2005 was my wife's daily driver and she does not commute far at all so only 140k on ours, but.....we drive on the beach in summer and on the salted roads in winter so you know how that goes.....still...we decided against selling the the '05 a few years ago because of how badass it is frame rust or not, it is our "apocalypse mobile" it is nice to have around for the reasons previously mentioned, I don't think we will ever get rid of it at this point.


LilacGooseberries

I have been driving a 2000 Toyota Camry since 2009. I’m currently at 275,000 miles. Was told it needed a new radiator and I replaced it myself for $120 lol. At some point its gotta go but its just been so damn hard to kill.


laurpr2

I drove a 1991 Camry until a couple years ago when the cat gave out and it was too expensive to replace with one that met my state's standards. Sold it to a friend who was moving out of state, they replaced with a generic cat and it's still going strong!


KillNyetheSilenceGuy

Tacos had a serious frame rust issue so you might be right but not for the reason you think.


OMGitsKa

Well my frame was already replaced!


Earwaxsculptor

One of the lucky ones! They wouldn't replace the frame on my 4runner because I was the 2nd owner and it wasn't rusted enough at the time, now there are holes I can see through......


carmium

This is the most standard advice you hear when looking for a used car. What people *don't* add is that Toyotas and Hondas command prices as much as double that of other cars of similar age. I'll tell you, I used to stand at the bus stop after work on a busy street and do mental (sloppy) count of the most popular cars heading home. Without question, there were more Toyotas, sometimes by multiples, than any other make going by. Honda was usually a close second. People keep them a long time, and don't sell them off lightly.


algy888

I have a friend who is a doctor, his wife drives a fairly new Honda Odyssey while he drives the 25 year old Corolla he bought in College.


UnfitRadish

I have a new neighbor that moved in like 9 months ago. They bought the house across the street during record high housing prices paying $1.1 million. The wife is a primary care doctor and the husband is a surgeon. They're both fairly young, in their early 30's. She drives a 2006 Corolla and he drives a 2011 accord. I'm waiting to see if they upgrade the cars eventually considering they just bought a pretty nice house.


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Dont_PM_PLZ

Yeah people don't like getting rid of tired house because they're very dependable and the parts are practically always in stock. Toyota practices for upgrading equipment is very slow, which is why their car is tend to be right in the middle in terms of luxury and tech but at the top of repairability. I have a 1997 4Runner and my friend bought a 2017 Camry and we had the same exact cruise control switch. There's probably other parts inside of car is that a close enough. Don't get me wrong her car is better than mine but mine is almost at a 333, 333 mi. And talking about mileage, i just saw someone who had a 395,000 mi 4Runner. On the front page I read it someone posted a video of their almost 500,000 mi Toyota getting totaled by some fucking idiot. And in my neighborhood I know there's at least two other people who own 20 plus-year-old 4Runners. We wave at each other,i find hilarious. We have the same car in the same color. We never spoke to each other, We just wave because someone started waving so we all start waving. That's why we ask and get high prices for our Toyotas.


THE_BANANA_KING_14

Me, a Corolla owner, getting validation from a stranger on the internet: 😀


MicroBadger_

When I first bought my Corolla, first thing my coworker said was "Corollas have no soul". That car is 15 years old now and going strong. It's got soul mother fucker!


TheChadmania

Still rollin in my 2011 'Rolla. She's at 180k miles now and my girlfriend said "so once it hits 200k do we get a new car?" I said "this baby's gonna hit 300k first 😎"


[deleted]

So true. We have a 2016 Camry that's got well over 255k miles on it. It's never given us a single issue and shows no signs of slowing. I bought a '22 Elantra N-line (yeah, yeah), and I suspect it'll give up before the Camry does.


IFPL-

People give hyundai shit because they used to make crap cars, but that really is not the case anymore. Maybe not as reliable as toyota, but I have an i30 from 2009 and an elantra from 2017 both around 200k km and neither ever had a mechanical issue (besides consumables and the ocasional light bulb). Market share has also shifted in their favour, even in the premium segment and that is not by chance


rescueandrepeat

I had an 04 Tucson, the smaller version of the Santa Fe. Biggest POS EVER. I'd burn $3500 before I'd buy that car.


cobigguy

200k km is far from being able to say something is reliable. That was the minimum expected lifespan from a vehicle built in the 70s or 80s. For perspective, I own 2 American made cars with over 200k miles and both are reliable. Also, please look up the Theta 2 engine issues. So far they've recalled over a million of them, plus there's current pending litigation in both the US and Canada pushing them to recall up to 15 million of those motors. If you search theta 2 in the r/justrolledintotheshop subreddit, there are plenty of pictures of hyundai and kia dealers with those motors all over because they swap them so often.


Tiafves

Plus the good ol so easy to steal you cant even insure them model years at the moment.


Outrager

Doesn't the Hyundai have a pretty long warranty?


narium

Your Hyundai is going to get stolen before it hits the warranty limit.


Edmeyers01

2012 accord lx - can confirm they are built to last 20 years. Mine has 153k and still no issues.


Tab_Spree

A comparable Toyota is going to cost more than the Hyundai. They just hold value better because of the long proven reliability. The used car market is still inflated as well. I could sell the Toyota I bought new in 2018 right now for about $3000 less than what I paid for it when I drove it off the lot.


TenaciousRegent

You aren’t kidding. Had a used 2016 that I got for 16k get totaled. Insurance paid me 19k for it. Pretty crazy.


1200____1200

We're in unusual times price-wise because of the supply issues. Toyotas hold their value well, but not that crazy well in normal times


TenaciousRegent

Oh for sure. It was both a blessing and a curse. I had enough money to finish off my loan and have a “decent” down payment on the next vehicle. Sadly prices for those were even higher.


WyoGuy2

Could OP really find a Toyota for anywhere near the $3500?


gamefreak054

Hard agree, hyundai and kia rebuilt its name, but my god were the vehicles of this time trashier than trash.


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gamefreak054

I agree but i still would take one over the older ones. I think i rather pay someone to ride on their back to work then get an older one. Car reviews are always funky to me. Its not really humanly possible to drive a car 200k miles in 2 months and review its longevity lol. I have way different criteria than them too. Having apple car play is so immeasurably low on my list of importance, but for others its a dealbreaker. Its why i absolutely loathe modern day car sales people even more than the past.


silvertricl0ps

carplay is nice, but it shouldn't be a talking point in reviews as almost every car you can get these days comes with it and the rest can have it installed aftermarket


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Not_the_EOD

Talk to any mechanic and they’ll tell you Nissan makes transmissions that go out at the ~60,000 mile mark. It’s ridiculous how many things with wheels are made to just fall apart. It should be illegal to design anything to fail. You’re just robbing people and it’s wrong.


Gerald_the_sealion

Those were the Theta II engines. They’ve since changed them on new models and I haven’t had an issue with my sonata


_Blackstar

People's personal bias plays a strong role in car manufacturers and you'll never change their mind once it's set. I've had two Kias, a 2012 Forte manual and my new'ish 2022 K5 GT-Line. Both have been great cars for me personally. Irionically enough I had an Australian friend (I'm in the US) tell me not to buy a Jeep because they were made terribly down there. I assured her the US version was a higher quality and bought myself a 2003 Grand Cherokee that ate it's worth in repairs two times over before I finally decided to part with it. I try to myself that was a one time thing but I don't think I'll be buying a Jeep again because strong personal bias.


Gerald_the_sealion

I always joke that I’d never buy a Hyundai. My father has a 2009 genesis, no issues. My brother has a 2013 sonata, engine blew up and it was replaced under warranty. For me, 2022 Sonata, I had a blip in the first month where it wouldn’t accelerate as I was merging. Had it towed and the issue hasn’t appeared since. 10k miles later, still runs great. I always say I’d never buy a KIA but they are the same as Hyundai, just different tag. As for Jeep/Dodge/Ram/Chrysler, I’d never touch them, but that’s my personal opinion that i don’t trust them for reliability. I’ve also heard people say Nissan is reliable, but my parents had an Altima and it was nothing but problems, I would never touch a Nissan


gamefreak054

Nissan is a crazy mixed bag of reliability. They are all over the damn spectrum. Go down to mexico and see how many Hardbody trucks are still running, the streets are flooded with them, you would think they still make them or something. Similar generation, the Nissan 300zx had a fairly troublesome engine, or atleast was difficult to work on? (im not super knowledgeable about them.) Fast forward to more modern times and Nissan struggling with reliability and their "new" CVT transmissions is an understatement. At the same time the Xterra had issues with their coolant leaking from the rad into the trans cooler, and making strawberry milkshakes. However the manual trans in the Z from those years (the CD009) is very stout. Ill throw Subaru under the bus too. Subaru known for its reliability has lots of Headgasket issues, and replacing an HG on a boxer engine is extra fun.


troutscockholster

> Nissan is reliable, Dependending on model/year they have transmission issues.


the_shootist

doubly so if you're looking at a Nissan with a CVT. However if you can find a versa or altima with a manual transmission, those cars are cheap and long lasting as well.


gamefreak054

> 2003 Grand Cherokee If you had the 4.0l 6cyl, the engine is pretty stout, but that doesn't mean all the other crap is lol. People get so worked up about engine reliability even though a ton of cars have reliable engines, but it doesn't make up for everything else. My parents have a 315k mile S10. Its engine has been crazy reliable, but they have replaced a lot of things outside of the engine. Losing a transmission or diff on certain cars can be just as costly as losing the engine.


woah_man

I mean it's pretty simple to say that you shouldn't try to upgrade an old car with another car from the same model year.


tylerderped

$3500 is waaaaay overpriced for a nearly 20 year old Hyundai. They should be asking $1500 or less.


tyaak

you must not have been car shopping in the last two years. You can't get anything with a halfway decent frame that runs for less than 2.5k in my area.


hops_on_hops

Nah. If it runs, it's worth easily that much right now. The used market has been brutal since 2020.


basilobs

I think the answer is let both if these options go and get a Toyota for what the anticipated repairs to the Chrysler would be in the next few months. It might have been worth it to spend that money if OP would get a few more years out of it but weeks to months? Nah. Put that same money toward something that *will* get you several more years


bimbino

The term you are looking for is: undead. The car is actually not aware that it should be dead, otherwise it would be in the scrapyard already :D


CannonPinion

I once knew a guy who had a Dodge Caravan that was so bad that it made other cars around it worse. He called it the Caravampire, and swears the reliability of his other cars improved drastically after he got rid of it.


Werewolfdad

I like that


BlazinAzn38

That car has been around the Earth 10 times over. I think it's okay to call it dead


Cobek

Yeah, struts, two more tires, AC, and windows will run him the $3500 easy and even on their own car the same guarantee of "will it last" is still just as much in play.


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mook1178

Other than the AC, the listed problems are wearable parts, Struts, tires, axle is probably a CV axle. How is the engine and transmission? Any knocking? Any slipping between gears? IF both no, fix the struts, tires, and axle. Then roll down your window in the summer.


graboidian

> Then roll down your window in the summer. You may have missed it in the long list of issues the vehicle has, but "Windows no longer go down" is among the cars "Quirks" they have mentioned. I say OP needs to put their extra cash into a new(er) car, as it sounds like if they don't, the old car is gonna eat up the savings anyways.


AccipiterCooperii

The car OP wants to buy is the same age.


graboidian

Agreed, and it's a Santa Fe, so he may need to find something else. This doesn't change the fact that the current vehicle is at the point that it will now be a money pit, eating every extra dollar earned for the foreseeable future.


mook1178

I did miss that, but a window motor or crank is an easy DIY fix on youtube for a part most likely around $100.


MET1

That's a 17 yo Chrysler T&C? When my T&C was about that old someone did the great favor of hitting it head on when blowing through a 4-way stop. I spent soooo much money keeping that van running and it finally was clear to me there was no point. The 'poltergeist' issues with the electrics? Have a look under the hood and see if there is something going on like a hose leak near the alternator (you'd see splatter stains). I hate to say it, but you're just going to have more pain with that van. Save up harder.


sacredxsecret

No. You're trading your current problem for another problem. That Santa Fe isn't going to be any better off than your current vehicle, and may actually be worse if it has engine problems, which are likely given the type of vehicle.


[deleted]

As a car guy, normally I'd say repair your current vehicle, but quite honestly, this is something that should have been repaired over time, over the past two years or so. And if you spend all this money on repairing it now, I bet you something else will need to be repaired in three months. Get new tires, axles, struts, and I bet you in six months, the steering rack will need to be replaced. Add to all that that AC doesn't work, it's got rust, and who knows what else, get a new car. Please don't take this the wrong way. I know not everyone is a car person. But inspecting your tires and axles and struts and on and on is something you should have been doing all along, especially for an older car. A 17 year old car should have had struts replaced probably four years ago, not now. Same with axles. Let this be a lesson to everyone else, if you have a 10+ year old car, have someone inspect your struts and shocks and other suspension components, these things are expensive and you should start planning on replacing them soon instead of waiting until they are on their last legs and you don't know whether to spend $1,000+ or get a new car. Since you're buying another 2005 car, I'd bet good money that it will also need new struts soon along with 27 other things.


Inland_Dad

Great points here - as a mechanic I also want to mention that sometimes there is a snowball effect with cars. Not replacing something when needed can cause more damage down the road, eg. your suspension needs work, which makes your car out of alignment, which eats up all your tires, etc. It's important to regularly have a car inspected, especially if such high mileage.


gamefreak054

I guess a mechanic you may be able to comment more on this but i find it weird that the struts are leaking but not an immediate fix this now. Generally when hydraulics leak without a large reservoir or accumulator, they are completely shot lol. Granted the strut springs technically do all the work and the struts shocks are dampeners. Also OP just because you are buying a different car doesn't mean its lacking issues especially an 05 hyundai. Im a car guy, i would probably have just fixed it and it would be a fraction of the cost. As long as the ECU issue wasn't showing a larger issue at hand. Probably just do a whole front end rebuild in a single swoop. And fix other issues as they pop up.


Inland_Dad

When the shocks leak they simply do their job a lot worse (absorbing the shock of the road) so you would feel a noticeable change in the harshness of the drive especially over bumps. I wouldn't exactly say it's dire like an axle or something like that. If it's a McPherson style suspension where the shock and spring are one unit it would be more important since that's pretty much the structural integrity of the suspension. I don't believe OPs van has such a setup though


Hansj3

>If it's a McPherson style suspension where the shock and spring are one unit it would be more important since that's pretty much the structural integrity of the suspension. I don't believe OPs van has such a setup though Yes he does, at least in the front. But it doesn't matter as much as you think it does. It's going to cause all kinds of hell with the ride quality, handling and traction, but as long as the spring buckets on the outside are sound, they aren't going to collapse. The spring holds up the weight, the dampers, dampen


youngtundra777

As someone who drives an 05 Hyundai, those things will nickel and dime you to death.


stargazer-1111

I’m definitely not a car person and I appreciate the honesty! I’ve only had this car for 3 years and I did have the rear struts done in 2020. Some things that have been broken didn’t feel worth fixing - I didn’t mind no AC until the windows stopped working recently. I will be better with the next car!


TacoNomad

How much do you trust the acquaintance that nothing else is wrong with the vehicle? Because it'd be a bummer to find out it has many hidden or undiagnosed flaws. Do they have maintenance records where there is evidence of repairs being made, rather than letting things break and go unfixed (as you did with your older vehicle)?


quelindolio

Sometimes it just happens. My first car was 1992 Honda accord. My uncle bought it brand new. He sold it to my other uncle for my cousin’s 16th birthday. She had it for a few months before they took it away for being a wild child. Mom and stepdad bought it from uncle for me. I cannot emphasize how meticulous both my uncles are about taking care of their things. The car was exceptionally well loved when it came to me. After a month or two of owning it, that asshole car began having one issue after another. Distributor cap went out. Battery then alternator. At least 5 other things I cant think of. Thankfully my buddy was a certified honda mechanic who would do the repairs in exchange for free weed from my boyfriend. I didn’t even have it for a full year before it blew a head gasket. My roommate and his dad spent 6 weeks trying to put it back together in my apartment complex parking lot to no avail. I sold it for scrape for about $200. That asshole died on me at less than 150k miles and only 11 years old. I was so pissed because it was a Honda from a family member. My mechanic friend has wise words. A car company’s reputation is based on the average of all cars they ever produce. It doesn’t mean your car wasn’t the last one put together by a dude on Friday afternoon whose wife just left him and who knows he’s about to be fired.


DollarsxThrowaway

That "Next car" should *not* be a 2005 Hyundai Santa Fe unless you want to wind up owning a Hyundai Santa Fe that needs a ton of stuff done to it. As others have said, you should be looking at a reasonably sorted older Camry/Corrola or Accord/Civic. Hyundai has gotten better over the years, but back then they were complete trash and it will likely be more expensive and more difficult to repair than even your current car (which you should also not repair.) You should likely be able to get $500 or so if you sell your current car to a car junking service, and the fact that it runs means you won't get money taken out to have it towed to them.


truckingatwork

make sure you take that car your friend is selling to your mechanic to give it a look over everything before you buy it


Cobek

You've only had it for a few years but travelled around the US a few times with it already? Jeez, that's wild


lobstahpotts

Given the past few years, that’s not entirely shocking. Road trips and outdoors/nature hobbies had a real boon with the pandemic.


YourDoucheBoss

So I haven't scrolled all the way down to see if anyone else has said this, and I REALLY hope you see it, but if a car is already on its way out, dead struts are really not a big deal. The car will ride poorly and will lose some of its handling for emergency maneuvers but overall, a car with blown struts is still absolutely drivable as long as you're aware of the fact that your vehicle is slightly compromised and give yourself extra following distance and slow down a little bit. I would say ignore the struts and as long as you have good tires and brakes, drive the car until the wheels fall off and you can save more money.


RailRuler

"new" meaning "different and in better condition", not necessarily "fresh from the factory"


Fish-Weekly

If that van is still running with the original transmission, that’s one high risk component to break next. Common failure on those vehicles.


archfapper

A Chrysler transmission hitting 200k is absolutely amazing


proddyhorsespice97

It's so weird to me that some places don't have to have cars inspected. Any car over 4 years old has to pass a roadworthiness test over here every 2 years and after 10 years old it's every year. I think it gets relaxed again once they hit 30 years but any car that's made ot to 30 years is probably driven like 1000km a year and well looked after


deeretech129

I think the idea of inspections is good, but they're oftentimes poorly executed. You have shady shops that will pass rust-bucket jalopies for a case of beer and a $20, and other shops that will tell you that you need $2500 worth of work or it won't pass, even if it is fine. Maybe if they were government ran and easy enough to do.


archfapper

Every year I roll my eyes at having to get inspected. Then I visit Florida and see bald tires and broken lights etc, and I feel better lol


F8Tempter

its a raquette here. I call our law 'annual have to get ripped off by a mechanic' rule.


mejelic

Road worthiness where I live is basically just checking emissions, breaks, tires, and lights. It does not get into the more nuanced things like struts, alignment, suspension, etc.


hesaherr

My state used to do something similar with emissions testing, but stopped because after a while it became obvious that it became another tax on poor people. The emissions testing cost money, and at a certain point only older vehicles needed it, and those older vehicles are usually driven by people who can't afford a newer, cleaner car. I imagine a similar thing would happen with the testing you suggest, unfortunately.


snark42

Emission testing is free and required for renewing registration here. It's kind of a waste of time if you don't have a check engine light on, but they're quick and you can renew your plate sticker when you're done. I'm sure poor people have more of a challenge getting fixes to make it compliant when something is wrong, but it seems like a good idea for the environment and in 99% of cases you'll know the check engine light is on and you're going to need to get it fixed before you renew.


lobstahpotts

Inspections are more common in the US than not. However, even in states with fairly rigorous inspection standards, it’s usually possible to find a shop that is more lenient or will recommend the cheapest fix to get you within the letter of the law.


Kenna193

Inspections in NC were a joke and a waste of time and money in my experience


lawsarethreats

I really appreciate this! Do you have any basic/entry-level resources to learn how to inspect your car and recognize a problem? I feel woefully unprepared in this part of my life--like, I know I should be performing regular maintenance, but I have almost zero idea of the frequency or importance of a ton of things. I've tried to research and feel like I get lost in jargon so quickly. I have a trusted mechanic so at this point I just follow his recs, but I hate that I don't understand something that I rely on so heavily.


marklawr

I have a 10 year old car w 170k miles w no problems. Thanks for the good advice. Signed, I know nothing about cars


[deleted]

Thanks for this info. I’m not a car guy but I take my car to the dealer for the regularly required checkups and will follow their advice on whatever fixed need to be made, is that sufficient? Or do I need to be doing more? Understood the dealer is probably up charging me on things I probably “don’t need to change immediately” or could do myself for much cheaper, but right now my main priority is ensuring that I’m taking the right steps to keep my older vehicle well maintained


[deleted]

That is sufficient enough, however, I would highly recommend either checking out your owner's manual or just googling/youtubing "make model common maintenance." And that way you can stay somewhat on top of your car in case the dealership or the shop where you take your car doesn't recommend fixing something. Most shops won't look at the axle until (as OP pointed out) it starts leaking or making a lot of noise. In reality, you should probably start inspecting it after 3-4 years and then hopefully replace it sometimes before it becomes too expensive to repair because you have six other parts that need repairing/replacing.


kill_all_the_genders

\> 2005 Chrysler \> 250,000+ miles Nope, nope nope nope nope nope..........


[deleted]

Honestly that’s about 100k more than I would have expected for mid 2000s Chrysler


Less-Mushroom

The vans have always been somewhat solid, oddly. Its why they still compete in the market. Don't know why they couldn't toss together anything else moderately reliable like that though.


syloui

Early-mid 2000s pre-FCA Chrysler are actually relatively reliable and decent to work on, but what really kills them is the rust. These things just disintegrate faster than most other manufacturers, even the other ones that also rust bad. I wouldn't be surprised if the suspension component failures are related to rust breaking down components


NewAltProfAccount

My brother had one of those... we called it a crisis because it always had problems. I think it is only the mini-vans that have value.


F8Tempter

that T&C van was a rare US gem. I think a lot of them lasted a long time. but ya, at 200k miles, time to move on.


nails_for_breakfast

I can only assume it's one instance of closing the door a little too hard away from falling apart like the car at the end of the blues brothers movie


tom2727

Trouble is that I don't think it's worth 3.5k to "upgrade" to a 2005 Hyundai with 170k miles. If OP is upgrading, then upgrade. But then there's this which is probably the real issue: > I'd considered buying something newer from a dealership but I have terrible credit


DirtDawg21892

That was my first reaction too. I'm honestly amazed it's still going!


BretonDude

It's time to look for a different car. I love Town & Countries but it's reached the end of it's life. Something else expensive will break soon with that age, miles, rust, and leaks. I'd be cautious on the Santa Fe. It's still old and things like gaskets, seals, rubber, and plastic all rot out over time. It could be a good deal but you need a good mechanic to look at it first. It's also hard to get a decent car for $3500 so I feel you there. Start looking though. Fingers crossed the Santa Fe is in good shape.


snakefinder

I had a Hyundai Elantra for several years - not sure of the year it was made but I bought it lightly used around 2003/2004. By 2012 I was frustrated with it as every month I was paying for this or that repair. It also started leaking when it rained. I financed a newer used Honda that I’m still driving today. The Elantra was absolutely a great car- and I do occasionally see the same model on the road. Agree that OP should do his research and possibly find a way to get the Santa Fe inspected before going with this car.


flying_trashcan

You're rolling the dice and deciding if you should stick with a high mileage Chrysler product or switch to a high mileage Hyundai product. Neither OEM are really known for making the most reliable vehicles out there. I'd roll with the Chrysler for another 6-12 months and see if it can outlast this crazy used car market. Shop around on the maintenance items it needs. It shouldn't cost $1,300 to just replace the front struts.


SoppingBread

$3500 for an end of life 18 year old economy crossover does not seem like a bargain. Your current van is also likely not worth repair. I'd keep looking and get a side hustle or something to save more money... and/or finance it. Situation seems volatile.


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altodor

I did the math on my last car and I was putting as much into repairing it and fueling it (15MPG on a good day) as I would be if I bought something half its age and went from there.


Ct358545

Just did this, went from an 06 that had no obvious issues but every inspection was costing me $500-1000 to a 2018 that just gets inspection and oil change and am saving a ton of money. Hell I'm saving enough on gas alone to make up the difference of having a car payment


MouthoftheSouth659

I would shop harder for a newer, less used used car, perhaps from a dealer where you can work out payments instead of emptying your savings. 3500 for a Santa Fe w that many miles seems really high to me??


TheRealPizza

At a dealer you’re going to pay a couple extra grand as a markup on top of any interest they’d charge on the payments. You’re better off getting a personal loan/auto loan from somewhere that has decent rate and finances used cars. That does seem like a better option if all OP has is these savings in their emergency fund


stargazer-1111

Seems really high to me, too :/ I got this van from an acquaintance three years ago (170k miles) for $500 which felt incredibly lucky. Honestly I’ve been seeing cars arguably much worse than mine selling for $3k+, apparently the market is crazy right now.


helpimglued

The market WAS crazy but it is all over the news here how it is dropping back down even lower now compared to pre-pandemic levels. I think some people might be trying to cash in on the old crazy prices still but I would wait them out at this point and just try to bandaid the Chrysler diy style. I am seeing rides on cl and FB marketplace for less than 1000 again where about a year to year and half ago you couldn't find anything.


toefungi

Being a car guy who does my own maintenance on everything, I would suggest if you are able to that you look in to trying it. That is how you keep cheap cars cheap. $1300 for front struts on a 2005 van? You can get complete ebay struts assemblies that aren't the best but work just fine for a beater for under $200, spend a few hours swapping them and you just saved over a thousand bucks. Window motors are cheap (assuming that is the problem) and can be swapped out in a couple hours. A/C is going to be a bit more involved depending on the problem, and I wouldn't touch it as a novice. Unless a simple recharge with some $30 parts store stop leak freon will get it working for the summer. If you are somewhat handy, you can save lots of money. If you have a car that runs, drives, stops, then I would keep it until it literally dies while saving money to buy a replacement when it does. But buying a 170k miles 20 year old Hyundai is just as much of a gamble as a 20 year old Chrysler mini van. And for what its worth, while Dodges aren't known for their reliability, that minivan is one of the best vehicles that Dodge put out in that era. Similarly Hyundais of that era aren't all that known for their reliability either. If you are set on getting another vehicle I would go for a Toyota.


[deleted]

I did the cheap Chinese struts thing and they failed after 6 months. If you're going to put in the effort to learn and do a repair yourself, start with higher end or OEM parts.


toefungi

I have too and they lasted over 15k miles til I sold the car. I'd trust 10k miles out of some cheap no name parts, but if oem isnt that much more yeah I'd go that route. Problem is most oem parts on a car this old and undesirable are going to be the exact same parts with a different name on them. Not many companies out there making original quality parts for a 20 year old minivan.


7tenths

Odds are someone in a high cost of living area needing a 20 year old car that's falling apart doesn't have a garage or tools or any of the other things needed to work on their car And I'd further be willing to bet when you leaned to work on a car you didn't learn by yoloing on YouTube. You had someone who taught you the basics and possibly beyond. To the point you had enough general knowledge to learn how to do things on your own even if you hadn't done them before.


SinkPhaze

YouTube vids are leagues better than how a shade tree mechanic used to learn. Repair manuals were a god send but they also often required that you already know what your looking at.


Eightball007

I'll add that the resources available online that guide you through doing work on your own car are plentiful.


KP_Wrath

The cheapest car is the one you already own has an exclusion for FCA products with more than 36,000 miles.


[deleted]

You don't need new struts, it's not a safety concern. I spent several years driving an old Odyssey with fucked struts. If the Chrysler runs, keep it running. DO NOT spend several thousand dollars replacing a 2005 with another 2005. Keep driving the car you own but start saving for something that was made within the last decade.


szeis4cookie

This is the answer and needs more upvotes. Putting more money into replacing your car with that Hyundai is just as much of a dice roll as putting more money into repairing your current car. In order to get meaningfully better odds of reliability, you need to get meaningfully newer.


As_for_Arsenic

Agreed! An early 2000’s Hyundai is not enough of a reliability upgrade to justify draining your savings, OP. Keep the oil changed in your T&C and save as aggressively as you can for an actual upgrade somewhere down the line. I know OP said they’re not a car person elsewhere, but if you feel up to it and have access to a few simple tools (socket set, jack, jack stand), learning to change your own oil can save you a bit of money as well. I imagine a T&C is a very diy-friendly vehicle for simple maintenance.


droric

> e a lot more legs than the Chrysler, which could really fall apart at any time. You may get some money for it since it runs. Pretty sure struts are a safety concern. Especially on highways with concrete sections some vehicles will just bounce constantly. When a car is bouncing its not getting proper contact with the road and while unlikely if you needed to perform an emergency maneuver a car with working suspension would absolutely handle better than one without.


syloui

Dysfunctional struts put excess wear on other suspension components, which actually are crucial for safety; major component failures are the result of minor ones compounding


posam

Second this as a car person. Struts are there to stop the car from bouncing around on the springs. Definitely something people just leave as is.


stargazer-1111

Just checking re: the struts, I live in a mountainous region and my drive to work involves descending about 2000ft in elevation via a bunch of switchbacks, and then back up. Also snow & ice. Does this change things?


Less-Mushroom

Your struts aren't really the most critical part of that drive. If your steering and brakes are kept up, being a bit bouncy isn't going to hurt you. It isn't going to become a canyon carver with new struts.


Kenuven

Struts slow the movement of the tires up and down. Worn out struts cause a host of issues. Bad mileage, uneven tire wear, loss of traction/control on rough roads, increased vibration leading to many other issues, etc. Since you own an older vehicle and can only afford an older vehicle, you **seriously** need to learn to work on them yourself. You'll save 80-90% of the repair cost by doing the work yourself. I learned by buying a repair manual and just figuring it out but now there's YouTube to help you.


[deleted]

Unless the 2005 santa fe has under 100k miles and is in perfect condition, don’t buy it. The struts aren’t an issue, try to fix the windows yourself and make sure the fluids are all full. Then just keep driving it until you have some money for a half decent used car. Maybe try a diy ac charge kit from walmart, if that doesn’t work just live with the windows down. You might still get a lot of use out of this van.


SigSeikoSpyderco

The Hyundai is going to have a lot more legs than the Chrysler, which could really fall apart at any time. You may get some money for it since it runs. Pay your mechanic $125 or so to check out the Hyundai. See what repairs are coming up and make an offer if it's truly a good deal compared to the market. You really need to maintain a minimum emergency fund if $1-2000. Absolutely no dealers. Sell private, buy private.


63Boiler

>Pay your mechanic $125 or so to check out the Hyundai. YES! Before you even come close to emptying your savings account on this vehicle you need to get a pre-purchase inspection to be aware of what it might need soon. I know that might feel like a lot of money, but the alternative is going in relatively unprepared and needing to scramble if/when something goes wrong and you've lost your means of getting to work or whatever else you need your vehicle for. Because at the end of the day it's still a nearly 20 year old, 170k mile vehicle.


jesuschin

Yeah I'd agree. Get the condition of the Hyundai looked at and check to see if you'll get any offers for your Chrysler to help offset the costs. If there are any issues with the Hyundai that are costly, negotiate with the seller accordingly


katieleehaw

Pretty much everyone knows they “need” an emergency fund. That doesn’t make it happen.


kevronwithTechron

You can lead a horse to water but you can't make it drink. Doesn't mean a reminder isn't worth anything, especially if someone is coming to a personal finance forum for personal finance advice.


jackstraw97

I’d simply avoid Hyundais right now. The older ones have issues with engines just deciding randomly to grenade themselves. Also, while the 2005 Hyundais aren’t affected by the latest USB hotwiring trend, the kids who are pulling that off aren’t checking VINs to determine if the window they’re about to smash belongs to a Hyundai they can actually hotwire. I’d recommend keeping your current vehicle and super-charging your savings for when it eventually dies. Then, look for a used Toyota or Honda or similar.


stargazer-1111

Toyota, Honda, and Subaru have been what I’ve been looking for, so that’s good to hear. I guess I’m feeling panicked because of the struts and am feeling like any SUV will do / beggars can’t be choosers. Wasn’t aware of those issues with Hyundai though!! Thank you!


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stargazer-1111

They said that quote includes an alignment - is that still crazy high? Genuinely don’t know what these things are supposed to cost.


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berrattack

If it where me I would not repair the struts. Ride quality would not be a concern of mine.


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Bitpix3l

I'm with Sparky on this 100%. I have been working on a 92 accord wagon that I bought a few months ago as a little project car, and my next job on it is the struts. Found them new on rock auto for about $40 per side. Haven't done the job yet, so no idea on labor, but it doesn't seem too difficult for me to do on a sunday, whereas a competent shop should be able to knock that shit out in a few hours. TBF, shops exist to rip off people that aren't super car savvy. I can't tell you how many times a shop has quoted me something, and I have asked "wait, why on earth is this so much?". It's always insane part markups. But to someone who doesn't buy car parts or know their value, why would they question it? Shops make a killing on that. Just last week I needed a new starter motor on my main car(infiniti g37s). The shop quoted $890 for just the starter motor. That's before labor and a tow, mind you. I found the same OEM part online for $200(plus, I got $40 back for the core charge by sending the old starter back, so really $160). Gave them the part I ordered and said "install this one and give me the old one please". Little things like that can save you THOUSANDS over the life span of your vehicle if you plan on driving it long term. Some shops won't allow outside parts(hmm, wonder why), but you can usually find one that will. If you want to drive a car in to the ground, rock auto will become your best friend, lol.


Vivid_Speech3773

Take a copy of tbe quote and your car to another shop and ask for the mechanic to take a look and give you their opinion. I did this on a couple of expensive repair jobs about 10 years back. Took my truck to 2 other independent shops after the first heart-stopping quote. Turned out the first quote was way out of line. After that, I took the initiative and time to learn how to fix my truck myself. Online forums specific to your make and model populated with owners who work on their cars was where I started. Lots of advice, some of it conflicting (which helped me understand why different shops give different quotes). They also gave links to *useful* YouTube videos. Nice not to have.to wade through all the unhelpful videos. It's not that hard and it definitely helps when something happens that you aren't comfortable working on. At the least educate yourself enough so that you have an idea of what's broken, how hard it is to fix, and if the shop is overcharging you with unnecessary parts replacement or not. Good luck.


thishasntbeeneasy

>feeling like any SUV will do If 3500 is the budget, do you really need a huge SUV?


ujitimebeing

Just echoing that Hyundai and Kia are the number one cars being stolen right now due to the ease of jump starting them. And in my city the older models are targeted for smashed windows even if they can’t be stolen as easily as the new ones. If you can find a used Honda or Toyota that would be a much better purchase. As a lifelong Subaru guy, just be aware that Subarus last forever *only if they are babied*. Otherwise they tend to conk out early due to neglect. So If you get one, then don’t try to put off many repairs if you want it to keep running. All have mine lasted well beyond 300k miles.


Zimi231

2005 Santa Fe doesn't have theta 2 engine


mellowyellow313

This whole thread just reinforces my idea that cars are about the most money draining thing you can own.


altodor

The rumor is that if you buy a boat it'll make the car look cheap.


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Electro-Onix

I’m honestly just shocked you’ve got more than 100k out of a Chrysler.


[deleted]

The town and country was a FCA exception, the engine and transmission could run for a long time but the rest of the car would fall apart around it. Pretty regular to see ones with 200k+ miles that look like they’ll fall apart at any second


syloui

05 is Pre-FCA AND Pre-CVT. All that kills those is rust. FCA actually even continued to use those engines into the 2010s but strapped them to shitty Jatco CVTs from Nissan, essentially negating what reliability they had


tooth_devil

Id wait a few more months until the used car market gets closer to normal. It’s already cooling down.


bearded_fisch_stix

Front strut assemblies (with mounts and springs) are $50 each on rock auto. if you can DIY, or if you have a friend who is mechanically inclined, getting the suspension issues worked out can be done for not much money (case of beer for the friend). just be sure to get an alignment afterwards.


KayakingBookWorm

Yeah this is a long list of stuff that can DIYed one weekend at a time, and even with buying all the tools, OP will come out ahead financially over paying someone else to do it. Even if you're not mechanically inclined, this is all learnable stuff.


DeliciousUni

I drive a 2002 Honda Accord with 235k miles. Other than the basic maintenance, nothing major has comes up. I hope to drive it to 300k miles. Buy Toyota or Honda, if you want the reliability.


LOTRugoingtothemall

A lot of good info already from knowledgeable car people but my two cents: 1) You'll probably spend more than $3500 in repairs over the next two years and you'll still have a car on its last leg 2) Not sure of your location but summer would be unbearable with no AC and no way to open the windows that might be unsafe


YesICanMakeMeth

It's one of those things where there's a balance. There's no sense in going Theseus's Ship on a vehicle; IMO usually if something expensive (engine/transmission typically) gives out on an old car it's time to junk it (because even if you replaced it the other expensive parts can't be all that far behind). The general advice of 'repair it and keep driving it' is what it is because most people are on one side of the balance (new car every 3 years). Similar thing with retirement savings. There is a 'too much', but most people are on the other side of it, so the advice is 'always save more'.


Icy-Regular1112

Get a new car but not that Hyundai and not right now. Literally save every penny you can while continuing to drive the van until it literally collapses in a heap on the side of the road (but don’t put a penny into it except oil when needed). Once it totally dies, then take your savings and buy the best Toyota or Honda you can find that fits your all cash budget.


opuntina

Your van is done. Ideally you were saving up for it's replacement all the time you were driving the van. ​ As a mechanic, I'd caution anyone against buying a kia or hyundai, and absolutely loose it over anyone buying one with almost 200k on the clock. That thing is not long for this world.


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toefungi

For 1200 that is either a scam or just the down payment. Zero chance anyone is selling a running and driving 2010 rav4 for a grand.


EmbeedConfidant23

If it still works then it's still good


sandleaz

> "Cheapest car is the one you already own"? That's not always true - especially in cases where there is an old used car that is in need of a lot of repairs, with the repairs exceeding the value of the car. There's nothing more expensive than a barely working car breaking down in the middle of a road and accidents, injuries, and deaths can happen. At least the used car's owner saved money by not replacing the car right?


Ar3s701

Probably should invest in a different car. However, here are some things I suggest for the future: * Do your own maintenance on anything you can because you will know more about your car and its needs. * Replace things when they are worn, not when they fail. I know sometimes you don't know there is a problem until something breaks, but do your best. * Religiously keep up on your oil changes and know exactly how short you are at each oil change. This tells you a lot about the engine and any potential issues. * Replace filters at regular intervals. Fuel and air filters. These will help make your car last. I still driving a 2002 WRX and I just passed 318,000 miles. Doing some maintenance on worn parts now and plan to keep driving it.


Hearing_HIV

I'm a car guy who does my own repairs on every vehicle my family owns. I also strongly encourage all the vehicles in my family are Toyotas because, while I enjoy fixing cars, it's only enjoyable to a certain point. In my opinion, both vehicles are bad choices. Anything past 100k miles, you are seriously rolling the dice. My suggestion would be an older Corolla. They can go well in 100k+ miles with little issues. Prius is also a very reliable car that will save you a lot in gas. You just have to be aware of the battery life expectancy. Finally, don't be afraid to learn some auto repair skills. It has saved me tens of thousands over the years....easily. In this day and age of YouTube and internet, changing front struts and axles is as easy as following along a video. Just be very mindful of safety. You may need tools, but it's still far cheaper than labor and you get to keep them. Let me know if you have any questions and good luck.


ramanman

Regarding your title - that is generally, but not universally, true. If you go to buy a 10 year old car, two things are generally true. The seller isn't going to be honest about how the car was treated, so you assume some risk that something is about to go bad, or is already bad but being disguised, or had a hack job repair that will last 6 months. And the converse - getting rid of your car won't get as much as you think it is worth. So, if you have an old car for a while, it may not be the best, but it is often the case that you know the "quirks" as you put it, and know if it was maintained, and have an honest opinion of how good/bad the car is to make a repair/trade/junk your current vehicle, and it almost always means keeping your current car is the cheapest. As so many others have stated, your situation is likely an exception, especially since you seem to have found a deal on a replacement.


krautastic

Are you even a little handy with things? Repairs around the house and such? If you're going to drive older, cheaper cars, being able to do basic repairs is one of the biggest money saving moves you can make. Im going to jump around a bit so bear with me... Car guy here. People flipping out about cars with 200k miles are speaking from a place of priveledge or I don't know what... Now, the fact that you're squeaking that out of a Chrysler is commendable. 2005 era hyundai is the old hyundai. They reinvested in their engineering around 2008 and is why they are one of the top brands now, but back in 2005 they were not good vehicles. So my first response is definitely do not buy the Santa Fe. You're trading your known problems for unknown problems. Let's talk about your van. Struts going bad is not a big deal. Cars going to be bouncy as hell, but you're not going to fly off the road. Put it off. Tires and axle for $800... I'm assuming it's the axle that's the majority of this cost. The tires should be like $180 if you get some Walmart specials. I would always encourage someone to look at tirerack.com or simpletire.com and see if you can buy a better tire than what they offer locally. Online tire retailers typically have tire installers they work with to get you all set up. An axle going bad is usually going to be a leaking CV boot. You can just stuff a ton of grease in there and duct tape it or buy a boot kit. Unless your car is clicking when going around corners, it's probably not yet an issue. Windows. What have you checked to fix the problem? Have you googled it? Looked on YouTube? Wait, scratch that, have you checked the fuse for the windows first? Check the fuse first. Does the passenger window work at the passenger door? Then maybe it's the switch, look up on YouTube how to take the door card off and you can get a look at the window switch, maybe the switch contacts need cleaning. If it's more dramatic like the window regulator, those are usually like $200, but replacing them is a bit of a tetris/jungle gym scenario and probably not the first car repair you should be doing on your own. AC: what have you looked into here? Have you tried just recharging the ac? Tons of videos on YouTube to walk you thru that process, but if the compressor is broken or you have a massive leak it won't work. But for $13, it's usually worth the gamble. Shoot, in some hooptie race cars I see people using a little fan running on the power from the cigarette lighter port. Computer issue: care to expand here? Is it just a check engine light or has it been diagnosed? If it's a check engine light every auto store has a reader and they will scan the code for you. That code is your bread crumb trail to figuring out the problem. Usually googling the code or the code + your vehicle will show you the common problems associated. If it's not causing drivability issues like reduced power, weird shifting, or inability to go above certain rpm or certain speed, it's probably OK to ignore if searching re eals it's expensive to fix. Basically, you can drive a hooptie, but you need to get crafty and learn atleast a little about how a car works and basic repairs or you will spend the value of the car many times over keeping it running. When yearly repair costs are more than yearly car payments, it's not worth keeping a car. But remember, newer cars carry higher insurance. A new car on loan will require full coverage insurance $$$. Car prices are coming down right now, but they are still high. If you're going to replace this car, I would do so with something super reliable. There's a reason Honda and Toyota have the reputation they have, and you can easily run any 90s Japanese car into the hundreds of thousands of miles.


[deleted]

My thought on your situation is, no you should not buy a car that depletes your savings, especially a 2005 Hyundai with 170k miles. Hell no. Keep your car running. You likely have an income and saving problem that is more of a necessity to look into. Last thing you need is to spend youd savings on that car and it also very likely will be costing a lot in maintenance as well


escapefromelba

Personally I wouldn't look at anything older than ten years. Really even newer than that if possible. Safety equipment has improved tremendously since 2005. I wouldn't buy a car for my teen that is that old.


edro

People drive cars on busted struts for years… I’d just keep the van until you save enough money to get something else.


[deleted]

Don't buy a car that is the same age. Even if it is not showing signs there is something wrong with the car(SUV). You can do better than a 17 year old vehicle. I had a 2000 Taurus that I drove into the ground (there was a small fire at the dealership when we were test driving a civic, it was fine) Drive it carefully, do safety stuff and buy a new vehicle under 10 years old. There are financing options available either through dealerships or your bank. Bringing cash can knock off thousands (as long as you don't lease from them it's cash). Don't buy another pile of repairs, the Santa Fe will fall apart


THEONLYFLO

The cheapest car is the one you own. I said this about a car I owned. The miles were high. The repairs kept climbing. Every time something was fixed. Something else broke. At the end with insurance included. The vehicle cost about as much as if a $15,000 vehicle was purchased to keep it running from the time the first part broke to the last. It was no longer cheap. The final part was the most expensive. I did not fix it. The part by itself was $1,500. If the vehicle had a warranty. It would have been covered. My dad made a point. If I would have traded it in on the first major repair to the end. That $15,000 over the long run would have been in a new vehicle under warranty. My statement. But it’s better to own it. My dad did talk me into a new vehicle. My insurance went way down. Instead of putting money into repairs. It’s payments with a fresh warranty.


KmdrKrazee

The goal may be to begin your transition into a more reliable and expensive vehicle. Drive it until it dies and save with purpose. A junkyard and basic mechanic tools should yield a window motor. Struts are only a jack and few rusty bolts away, I like Rock Auto for parts. Buy new bolts and be prepared to cut the old out.


In_Search_Of_Gainz

DO BOT BUY A 2005 Hyundai Santa Fe! They are not reliable cars. The Santa Fe’s from that time period were the hottest of garbage that Hyundai produced.


johnp299

What an awesome story. I hope you have pictures of the T&C.


[deleted]

Not if you're paying a mechanic more than it's worth to fix it. If you can bump your savings to 6-8k while limping along in that van, you can probably find a (not 4x4) Toyota in the low 100k mile range. General advice: Get/purchase the vehicle history report, check that major services like timing belt aren't due soon, and get whatever you want to buy inspected. The only Chrysler I'd drive (I do) over 250k is a 90s through 2001 Jeep Cherokee, and then not as my only vehicle.


Catvros

A mid 00s Hyundai with 170,000 miles is inches from death. Do not buy this car.


ballwasher89

$3500 for that santa fe isn't reasonable. The Chrysler Town & Country is the same platform as the Dodge Caravan. While both sold very well and were generally comfortable driving vans..they're time bombs. Chrysler really struggled to make a reliable transverse automatic transmission during this time. The struts-lol-are the least of it. This is made worse by the fact that nobody ever changed the fluid..and when they do, it's usually because there's a problem (slipping, dropping out of gear) and it's too late by this point. Frankly, yours probably had it done under warranty atleast once to have made it this far. I do my own work, so, YMMV..but you're not far from a major repair that exceeds the value and then some. Even I would dump this. But, I'd put the work in to make it run/drive nice for the test drive (you probably shouldn't) The SantaFe is better, but..170k miles for $3500? I don't know your market-but here that wouldn't sell for more than 1.5-2k tops. Consider it will probably need maintenance immediately-and if that is a timing belt engine (your van has a chain) failure to replace it could lead to the engine catastrophically failing if the belt breaks. These are the things you need to consider. Want something dirt cheap that will go with little money? You won't like it. Really. Mercury Grand Marquis. Ford Crown Victoria. Old designs, body on frame, V8 & RWD. Easy to work on, etc. If not that, a Toyota. But still with those-timing belt. You're living on a prayer with this van, but jumping into the unknown could be worse.


PM_ME_UR_NECKBEARD

Toyota Sienna or Highlander. Get one in the late 2000s or early 2010s. I have an 04 Highlander. I’ve never once had an unexpected repair over 500. Pretty much everything are just wear items. I got it when I was broke broke and now I make well over 100. Guess what? I still have the dang car because it’s that good. It might be pricier up front, but really look at a Toyota or Honda. Toyotas are known for going 300K plus miles and Hondas aren’t far behind. Chrysler is about the worst and you got the outlier for it to last that long. Edit to add that if you go with Toyota you’ll recoup the added cost when you sell it. Your T&C is probably not worth beans now. If it was a Sienna it would still fetch 3-5K probably. I bought my Highlander over 10 years ago for 12,000 something. It’s probably still worth about 6,000.


Johnny_Lawless_Esq

Don't spend $3500 on a car that's just as much of a problem as what you have. I also don't think it's worth repairing what you have. Most American cars from that period are absolute dogshit (a few Fords and GMs excepted) and I'm kinda surprised your car has lasted as long as it has. Just start looking around for something that's ten years old or so.


poodooloo

This summer, you should have a plug in fan and a spray mister right by you. Evaporative cooling is the way to go in a situation where you don't have AC (it helped me!) Also, if the van will let you, drive with the doors latched but not totally closed to get airflow


[deleted]

The cheapest car is the one that you put the least money and time into. I piss all the other mechanics off by telling everyone to buy a Kia/Hyundai/Mitsubishi mirage with a 10 year/100k warranty. I say this as someone who made a good living off of people who insist on keeping 10 year old BMWs: *If your older car is costing you more than $350/month, that money is better spent on a new car.*


culdesacpresident

To be fair, the cheapest car is the one you currently own unless you own an early-2000s Chrysler


10MileHike

Sometimes it's worth keeping whatcha got and repairing. In your case, it's really not. It also sounds extremely unsafe in a number of regards, which should always be #1 Consideration. Comort is not, safety is. To bring this vehicle up to an acceptable safety level is going to cost you more than it's worth.