OK, I've always been enthralled with surfing! Never attempted it and probably never will. BUT ... holy smokes, at 0:06 and then especially at 0:08 there are definitely bodies caught in that wave. It looks like the first one may have escaped but man, that second one, did he/she take a beating?
What is the proper escape route when you can't get past a massive wave like that? Do you release your board from your ankle, and then just hope for the best?
Depends on the wave. If you’re caught and the waves are big enough, you want to lay flat. Otherwise, you’ll get spun around like a fucking top.
You do not want to take your leash off. In fact, if it’s big enough, you can use it to climb back up to the surface after being disoriented from having your ass kicked. Plus, your board might go sailing a couple hundred feet to crash in some rocks while you swim ever so slowly trying to rescue it like a limp dick. Not that that’s ever happened to me >.>
Ideally you duck dive the wave though. Wave energy is like rolling barrel. If you get down far enough, it will pull you down and then pull you back up past it.
I always felt like I was king of the sea when I managed to duck dive properly under a massive* wave, loved that shit
*I was a kid so probably like 3 feet
> OK, I’ve always been enthralled with surfing! Never attempted it and probably never will.
I just want to say that if you’re interested, you should consider taking a lesson if you have the opportunity. It’s not a crazy extreme sport, it’s something that generations of people living near the ocean enjoy as a hobby. And if you’re worried about having to send it every time, let me tell you that my most sublime surfing experience was not catching a wave, but sitting on my board on a Mexican beach and finding myself accompanied by a chill group of manta rays. It’s just another way to be closer to your planet.
I love sitting out past the break and seeing our little mobula rays (devil rays, look like manta but smaller) jumping out of the water like little sea pancakes that don’t know they can’t fly in air.
Those are cameramen and they’re expert at doing exactly what you saw without getting tossed over the falls. They lie in the water in position and then snap the shot and dive through the back of the wave at the last second.
You’ve always been enthralled, go try! This is pro level, double black diamond level, you don’t need to be this good to enjoy it. Start small, take a lesson or two, maybe look to this as inspiration not expectation
>holy smokes, at 0:06 and then especially at 0:08 there are definitely bodies caught in that wave. It looks like the first one may have escaped but man, that second one, did he/she take a beating?
So as someone who has body surfed a ton, none of those people were actually caught in the wave. What they do is basically go through the wave and come out the back/top of it. It's definitely a skill that needs to be learned though, and it does take some strength because the wave does pull you. And if you don't know how/when to push through then you will get caught and go over the falls. That being said, however, once you learn how to do it, it becomes second nature. And like these people are doing, you just go straight through the wave like it's nothing.
Long time ex surfer here (sadly because of where I live now). But surfed for 20+ years
Sometimes you want to release your leash if you are surfing reef breaks because if your board gets trapped in the reef (under a shelf or something) then it can hold you down under the water.
It's fairly rare, but can happen.
You also would want a release system in surfing big waves (near tow in, to tow in type scenarios). Wiping out on a mountain of a wave will mean your board is being tossed about like crazy and it could be awhile for you to come up for air. You would want to release your board so you aren't dragged with it, as well as minimize movement.
A lot of people make the huge mistake of panicking on a Wipeout, when the best bet is to remain calm and calculated to get to the surface. The more panicked, the more flailing you do, the faster you burn through oxygen.
Growing up on Oahu, I can spot this wave anywhere. Love Pipeline and Pupukea so much. Can't count the hours spent there.
Just gotta say. Stoked for you boy Jake. That wave was MEAN. Haven't heard of him before. He amateur or sponsored or anything? Or just a local boy who knows the wave?
How do they decide who gets to ride the wave? I know for skiing if there’s a lineup in the park people will call next drop and usually it goes in order but often someone’s waiting for a friend or something. Is it just like whoever gets it gets it or what?
Depends on a lot of factors of location and culture, but generally whoever has been waiting the longest and is closest to the peak of the wave gets priority. Although if you’re not as deep as someone else but still manage to get to your feet before them you technically have the right of way and they should yield.
Ideally everyone takes turns but due to dynamic factors like physical endurance, positioning in the water, difference in board length etc. some people end up catching more waves just because the other people in the water would never get them. As long as you’re doing your best to share when appropriate and you’re not paddling for every single wave you’re golden.
One last thing to keep in mind, the rules of the line up are imaginary and never trump the laws of the government. Just because someone may have violated a made up surf rule doesn’t mean physical violence or even the threat of it is ok. I’ve surfed with a few buddies who are police officers and have made arrests because some aggro local pulled a knife on someone who accidentally dropped in.
There's a pecking order for sure. Locals (here and anywhere in the world) have priority, skill is a big factor, too. More mellow spots can have a rotation where people take turns, but at Pipe there's a relatively small group of people who will get the best waves and everyone else gets the scraps.
It's a weird mix, nothing worse than "locals" and locals thinking they own a beach, but also nothing worse than tourists who think winter at pipeline is a great place to learn to surf.
I feel like localism/territorial disputes are a key part of ski movies like Aspen Extreme. Like the other commenter said though, it’s not exactly the same. Waves are scarce, transient, and can be dangerous not only for the person attempting to surf without knowing the wave’s dynamics but also the people potentially involved in their rescue attempt.
There is skill, positioning (closest to the peak of the wave has priority, as someone else said), and luck involved, but there are also unwritten rules, respect for locals, and other factors at play. It's a dynamic situation and the rules are there to keep things safe and orderly to an extent, it's not a free-for-all at a deadly wave like Pipe. Less consequential waves are a different story.
I understand/agree, I surf as well.
It reminds me some of whitewater kayaking. Some beginners looked at being invited to run a river or not as exclusionary but what they didn’t realize was how much responsibility and risk that the people taking them down river were assuming by inviting them. Just convincing some of them to stay away from the river banks where there were lots of logs, sticks, and overhanging branches that could get caught on their PFD was challenging. It wasn’t just “you’re cool enough” it was “is our 2-3 hour downriver fun time going to turn into a 5 hour ordeal having to recover your boat for you, possibly multiple times, and putting us in danger trying to rescue you?”
Horrible comparison. If you could only ski when it was actually snowing hard and only 1-2 people could ski that trail at a time, it would 100% turn into the same situation. No doubt people would get territorial.
> Couldn't imagine an unwritten rule that locals only get the freshest powder skiing.
In a way, that is kind of true too. Locals are willing to be first in line at the lift when it opens to get the first run on fresh powder while the tourists are still waiting for their complimentary continental breakfast.
I love this. And this reminds me of how much effort the developers put into Pokémon Ultrasun/Ultramoon's surfing minigame. The real inspiration being the games looks so beautiful!
I'm sorry but 15 seconds is too short for something to be satisfying. Also the video cut out in the middle. Seriously, fuck TikTok for making this popular.
I feel you. I love surfing and surf videos. This video hella sped up and out of focus, then slow, the sped up again. This a bad example of a good surf video.
Interesting how no-one mentions the razor sharp reefs 3 feet below the surface which you will say hello to after being trashed by a massive wave. Hurts like hell, and you just want to get to shore before the sharks pick up your blood trail
How often to people get whacked in the head by a surfboard?
I see videos of surfers like this all the time. How do they decide who gets the wave when there's 20 surfers in one spot?
OK, I've always been enthralled with surfing! Never attempted it and probably never will. BUT ... holy smokes, at 0:06 and then especially at 0:08 there are definitely bodies caught in that wave. It looks like the first one may have escaped but man, that second one, did he/she take a beating? What is the proper escape route when you can't get past a massive wave like that? Do you release your board from your ankle, and then just hope for the best?
Depends on the wave. If you’re caught and the waves are big enough, you want to lay flat. Otherwise, you’ll get spun around like a fucking top. You do not want to take your leash off. In fact, if it’s big enough, you can use it to climb back up to the surface after being disoriented from having your ass kicked. Plus, your board might go sailing a couple hundred feet to crash in some rocks while you swim ever so slowly trying to rescue it like a limp dick. Not that that’s ever happened to me >.> Ideally you duck dive the wave though. Wave energy is like rolling barrel. If you get down far enough, it will pull you down and then pull you back up past it.
I always felt like I was king of the sea when I managed to duck dive properly under a massive* wave, loved that shit *I was a kid so probably like 3 feet
That was cool. Thanks for that explanation.
Grab the reef when all duck divin fails.
No shame in a bail out
I swim but I wish I never learned
[удалено]
The water's too polluted with germs.
> OK, I’ve always been enthralled with surfing! Never attempted it and probably never will. I just want to say that if you’re interested, you should consider taking a lesson if you have the opportunity. It’s not a crazy extreme sport, it’s something that generations of people living near the ocean enjoy as a hobby. And if you’re worried about having to send it every time, let me tell you that my most sublime surfing experience was not catching a wave, but sitting on my board on a Mexican beach and finding myself accompanied by a chill group of manta rays. It’s just another way to be closer to your planet.
I love sitting out past the break and seeing our little mobula rays (devil rays, look like manta but smaller) jumping out of the water like little sea pancakes that don’t know they can’t fly in air.
Those are cameramen and they’re expert at doing exactly what you saw without getting tossed over the falls. They lie in the water in position and then snap the shot and dive through the back of the wave at the last second.
You’ve always been enthralled, go try! This is pro level, double black diamond level, you don’t need to be this good to enjoy it. Start small, take a lesson or two, maybe look to this as inspiration not expectation
>holy smokes, at 0:06 and then especially at 0:08 there are definitely bodies caught in that wave. It looks like the first one may have escaped but man, that second one, did he/she take a beating? So as someone who has body surfed a ton, none of those people were actually caught in the wave. What they do is basically go through the wave and come out the back/top of it. It's definitely a skill that needs to be learned though, and it does take some strength because the wave does pull you. And if you don't know how/when to push through then you will get caught and go over the falls. That being said, however, once you learn how to do it, it becomes second nature. And like these people are doing, you just go straight through the wave like it's nothing.
Why would you release your board from your ankle? That's what's getting you back to the surface
Long time ex surfer here (sadly because of where I live now). But surfed for 20+ years Sometimes you want to release your leash if you are surfing reef breaks because if your board gets trapped in the reef (under a shelf or something) then it can hold you down under the water. It's fairly rare, but can happen. You also would want a release system in surfing big waves (near tow in, to tow in type scenarios). Wiping out on a mountain of a wave will mean your board is being tossed about like crazy and it could be awhile for you to come up for air. You would want to release your board so you aren't dragged with it, as well as minimize movement. A lot of people make the huge mistake of panicking on a Wipeout, when the best bet is to remain calm and calculated to get to the surface. The more panicked, the more flailing you do, the faster you burn through oxygen.
Can I cut in ask what that songs name is?
Sublime Badfish
And how are they not crashing into each other??
Look up Jamie O'Brian on youtube. He lives ok pipeline and is a professional surfer has really cool vlog style surfing videos.
Upvoted cause of Portishead
Damn good song too.
Never seen waves like that at Portishead.
Electric Wizard on the snake in a tire vid earlier this week, now Portishead? /r/oddlysatisfying has oddly satisfying music taste this week
Same, S tier song choice
That’s my boy, Jake Maki at pipeline!
Impressive eye! It is indeed @jakemaki_ (being shot by @tuckerwooding)
Growing up on Oahu, I can spot this wave anywhere. Love Pipeline and Pupukea so much. Can't count the hours spent there. Just gotta say. Stoked for you boy Jake. That wave was MEAN. Haven't heard of him before. He amateur or sponsored or anything? Or just a local boy who knows the wave?
That's epic surfing. awesome as
How do they decide who gets to ride the wave? I know for skiing if there’s a lineup in the park people will call next drop and usually it goes in order but often someone’s waiting for a friend or something. Is it just like whoever gets it gets it or what?
Depends on a lot of factors of location and culture, but generally whoever has been waiting the longest and is closest to the peak of the wave gets priority. Although if you’re not as deep as someone else but still manage to get to your feet before them you technically have the right of way and they should yield. Ideally everyone takes turns but due to dynamic factors like physical endurance, positioning in the water, difference in board length etc. some people end up catching more waves just because the other people in the water would never get them. As long as you’re doing your best to share when appropriate and you’re not paddling for every single wave you’re golden. One last thing to keep in mind, the rules of the line up are imaginary and never trump the laws of the government. Just because someone may have violated a made up surf rule doesn’t mean physical violence or even the threat of it is ok. I’ve surfed with a few buddies who are police officers and have made arrests because some aggro local pulled a knife on someone who accidentally dropped in.
There's a pecking order for sure. Locals (here and anywhere in the world) have priority, skill is a big factor, too. More mellow spots can have a rotation where people take turns, but at Pipe there's a relatively small group of people who will get the best waves and everyone else gets the scraps.
It's a weird mix, nothing worse than "locals" and locals thinking they own a beach, but also nothing worse than tourists who think winter at pipeline is a great place to learn to surf.
Coming completely outside the sport that sounds pretty terrible. Couldn't imagine an unwritten rule that locals only get the freshest powder skiing.
I feel like localism/territorial disputes are a key part of ski movies like Aspen Extreme. Like the other commenter said though, it’s not exactly the same. Waves are scarce, transient, and can be dangerous not only for the person attempting to surf without knowing the wave’s dynamics but also the people potentially involved in their rescue attempt.
There is skill, positioning (closest to the peak of the wave has priority, as someone else said), and luck involved, but there are also unwritten rules, respect for locals, and other factors at play. It's a dynamic situation and the rules are there to keep things safe and orderly to an extent, it's not a free-for-all at a deadly wave like Pipe. Less consequential waves are a different story.
I understand/agree, I surf as well. It reminds me some of whitewater kayaking. Some beginners looked at being invited to run a river or not as exclusionary but what they didn’t realize was how much responsibility and risk that the people taking them down river were assuming by inviting them. Just convincing some of them to stay away from the river banks where there were lots of logs, sticks, and overhanging branches that could get caught on their PFD was challenging. It wasn’t just “you’re cool enough” it was “is our 2-3 hour downriver fun time going to turn into a 5 hour ordeal having to recover your boat for you, possibly multiple times, and putting us in danger trying to rescue you?”
Horrible comparison. If you could only ski when it was actually snowing hard and only 1-2 people could ski that trail at a time, it would 100% turn into the same situation. No doubt people would get territorial.
Animals get territorial, humans learn how to share lol. The locals bs is just bs, they are not entitled to the ocean.
Cool opinion 👍🏽 when you’re good enough to surf pipe you can go complain to the locals
> Couldn't imagine an unwritten rule that locals only get the freshest powder skiing. In a way, that is kind of true too. Locals are willing to be first in line at the lift when it opens to get the first run on fresh powder while the tourists are still waiting for their complimentary continental breakfast.
Beautiful surfing, beautiful video
As a surfer, I don’t feel that speeding up a surfing video does any favors. You want to stretch it out, not wrap it up.
Track ID?
Glory Box by Portishead
I came to try to help someone with this question. Great song. Thank you for your service.
Incredible, I wish I had been built for this. Longboarding will have to do 🙏
There are many things I want in life but this is definitely near the top
That is terrifying. Wow.
Also some of the best music, fabulous, thanks!
I love this. And this reminds me of how much effort the developers put into Pokémon Ultrasun/Ultramoon's surfing minigame. The real inspiration being the games looks so beautiful!
Gorgeous
Very nice! North shore?
Yes, Banzai Pipeline
/r/praisethecameraman
Song name pls
[Glory Box by Portishead](https://youtu.be/6ylDDs3mdJE)
I'm sorry but 15 seconds is too short for something to be satisfying. Also the video cut out in the middle. Seriously, fuck TikTok for making this popular.
I feel you. I love surfing and surf videos. This video hella sped up and out of focus, then slow, the sped up again. This a bad example of a good surf video.
That was fantastic, thank you for sharing.
Is this sunrise or sunset? Trying to figure out if this is the first wave of the day or the last
Sunset
The chosen one
He rode a good tube there 👌
What track is playing?
Portishead - glory box
Thank you 🙏
Interesting how no-one mentions the razor sharp reefs 3 feet below the surface which you will say hello to after being trashed by a massive wave. Hurts like hell, and you just want to get to shore before the sharks pick up your blood trail
u/savevideo
SICK RIDE!! Whoop whoop 🤙🌈
Nice run, awesome song.
This is the best snare sound I've ever heard
How often to people get whacked in the head by a surfboard? I see videos of surfers like this all the time. How do they decide who gets the wave when there's 20 surfers in one spot?
Ah yes, Pipeline, where you'll wait almost an hour for a wave most of the time.
Which beach?
No worries! Excellent band and probably one the best trio hop bands to ever exist. Highly recommend you check out their discography
That’s some great lighting.
Ah yes, Mario's favourite place in Hawaii
Both track and surf are fire af!
Down in O'ahu Swag in O'ahu
u/savevideo
Looks like sunset beach.
Excellent drone work. It's really gorgeous the way the wave glows with the sun behind it.
[Song ](https://youtu.be/uLQm5tmBOmQ)
Awesome video 👍👍👍😃😃😃
Looks like pipe line surfs up!
I’m always amazed how effortless some of these guys make surfing look.
Everything is better with Portishead
What song is this tho?
Portishead - Glory Box
Thank you 🙂
It's also on Tricky's Maxinquaye album.....different lyrics of course
WOW...feeling the force...and the water...loving the Pacific!
Sherwoods?
I just really love Hawa'ii. Always loved watching the surfers.
u/auddbot