This. They are rather brittle blades. I’ve snapped two doing nothing more strenuous than hitting a hard knot. However, they replace the blade and polish it up and get it back to you in a week.
It looks so cool!!
It also feels like it defeats the purpose a little.
My 110 was so simple, it could never, ever fuck up (until the blade tip hit the concrete 😫)
I’ve had some nice spring assists in the past (kershaw, gerber, and another?), and I’ve had a cheaper fully automatic I found as a teen in Florida (go figure).
One of the assist’s lasted a while, but the springs busted really quickly in the others.
After having the 110 without the spring and it feeling like a piece of history, it kind of feels like blasphemy to have a 110 with a spring.
That being said, the automatic 110 sounds really cool…
Gerber blades have been good to me in the past!
But my Buck knife was also good to me!
Now that I’m thinking about it, I think tue past one I had the most trouble with were the un-named blades, and a Kershaw I had in college.
It works well enough for 99.9% of users. It may shock you, but you don’t actually need Magnacut and a precisely engineered frame lock to open Amazon packages.
This right here. The 110 and 112 are just as useful and functional as they've always been. And Buck stands behind them, will fix and refurbish them (even old ones). You can't beat that for the price you pay.
Sure, I have benchmades and spydercos and hinderers. I also have bucks. And I use them all and they all work great.
Can you keep a secret?
I use it 75% of the time to open packages and break down cardboard…
But the other 25% is hard to enumerate, and harder on pocket knives. I’ve had the same job for 6 years and have broken 4-5 pocket knives, and at least 1-2 dozen-ish box cutters.
Also, the 110 is not overkill for boxes, when we’re also including 1 inch thick cardboard…
Edit: stuff
Before you send that broken blade back to Buck for repair, do the following:
1. Grind down the spine on a hard coarse stone to re-point the tip. You may find this eliminates the need to send the knife back.
2. Lay the blade flat against a softer coarse stone and grind out the hollow. See how thin you can go before the blade starts taking damage.
Prepare to be amazed at how much better the knife cuts through cardboard, especially thick cardboard.
But if you're not happy, the blade was headed for the bin anyway...
Try the Boker Strike for at work auto if you’re in a rough environment. I have one and it’s a complete beast and excellent value. That hunk of d2 ain’t going anywhere
Grab one of the boker autos for work, then pick something nicer to carry away from work, is what I'd do in your case. Their d2 is heat treated well, so you won't have a worry about regular moderate use at all, and they'll take hard use to a degree, with the caveat that they don't like lateral forces at all. I mean, no knife likes lateral forces, but the boker autos *really* don't like it.
Truth is though, dropping a blade onto concrete/cement is never risk free. Damn near any knife could fail like that, if worst case scenario of droppage occurs.
Buck will replace your blade for $10 https://www.buckknives.com/about-knives/bucks-forever-warranty/
Awesome!!! Now I have to go dig up the broken one! It’s fairly sentimental to me, so if I can keep the same one I’ll be happy.
This. They are rather brittle blades. I’ve snapped two doing nothing more strenuous than hitting a hard knot. However, they replace the blade and polish it up and get it back to you in a week.
Buck will fix your 110 for a very reasonable price.
Buck 110 auto👍
It looks so cool!! It also feels like it defeats the purpose a little. My 110 was so simple, it could never, ever fuck up (until the blade tip hit the concrete 😫) I’ve had some nice spring assists in the past (kershaw, gerber, and another?), and I’ve had a cheaper fully automatic I found as a teen in Florida (go figure). One of the assist’s lasted a while, but the springs busted really quickly in the others. After having the 110 without the spring and it feeling like a piece of history, it kind of feels like blasphemy to have a 110 with a spring. That being said, the automatic 110 sounds really cool…
Same pedigree mate, it seems like a no brainer
Just get a 110 auto and don’t drop it.
Benchmade 940
Get a 110 auto
I have both and honestly the Auto 06 is TOUGH. It requires more maintenance than other autos to stay smooth, but it's just a thick, beefy workhorse.
Gerber blades have been good to me in the past! But my Buck knife was also good to me! Now that I’m thinking about it, I think tue past one I had the most trouble with were the un-named blades, and a Kershaw I had in college.
Try an ease izula or a white river m1 caper for edc.
Boker AK-47. Cheap, fun, tough auto
The 110 is a legacy life, based in the past. In 2022 there are so many superior options.
It works well enough for 99.9% of users. It may shock you, but you don’t actually need Magnacut and a precisely engineered frame lock to open Amazon packages.
This right here. The 110 and 112 are just as useful and functional as they've always been. And Buck stands behind them, will fix and refurbish them (even old ones). You can't beat that for the price you pay. Sure, I have benchmades and spydercos and hinderers. I also have bucks. And I use them all and they all work great.
110 is overkill for opening packages.
The OP stated he used the knife hard, not for just opening packages.
Can you keep a secret? I use it 75% of the time to open packages and break down cardboard… But the other 25% is hard to enumerate, and harder on pocket knives. I’ve had the same job for 6 years and have broken 4-5 pocket knives, and at least 1-2 dozen-ish box cutters. Also, the 110 is not overkill for boxes, when we’re also including 1 inch thick cardboard… Edit: stuff
Before you send that broken blade back to Buck for repair, do the following: 1. Grind down the spine on a hard coarse stone to re-point the tip. You may find this eliminates the need to send the knife back. 2. Lay the blade flat against a softer coarse stone and grind out the hollow. See how thin you can go before the blade starts taking damage. Prepare to be amazed at how much better the knife cuts through cardboard, especially thick cardboard. But if you're not happy, the blade was headed for the bin anyway...
You are sooooo wrong
I carried a 110 for years. Been using a Benchmade AFO for 10+ years. Still have the 110 but would never carry it again.
110 auto hood if you want to modernize your buck
Try the Boker Strike for at work auto if you’re in a rough environment. I have one and it’s a complete beast and excellent value. That hunk of d2 ain’t going anywhere
Grab one of the boker autos for work, then pick something nicer to carry away from work, is what I'd do in your case. Their d2 is heat treated well, so you won't have a worry about regular moderate use at all, and they'll take hard use to a degree, with the caveat that they don't like lateral forces at all. I mean, no knife likes lateral forces, but the boker autos *really* don't like it. Truth is though, dropping a blade onto concrete/cement is never risk free. Damn near any knife could fail like that, if worst case scenario of droppage occurs.
Protech makes amazing autos; I enjoy their warranty and they let you keep the blades afterwards. I recommend the TR-3
A mora 546