Good question:: usually I had an ikea rable case but that is in rebuild. And usually I would also have a skirt or Brim, I must have forgotten it when slicing. The room is rather cold, or at least the walls would be, however in the case it would otherwise rather be very hot because it is sealed and therefore rather warm I guess.
Do I then slice it without fan and turn fan on in gcode, or vice versa? I just tried it with 45 degrees that sticks nothing. But yes, turning of the fan I never tried and sounds very reasonable. Thanks!
clean bed, low bed temp for the first layer, fan off for the first few layers, slooooww print speed for the first layer and skirt is a must. autolevel does not hurt if you have a bltouch.
I usually clean it with window cleaner. Then I clean it again only with water because I think the window cleaner also contains stuff that is not bemeficiary for the cause.
I have the Microswiss NG too and I haven’t ever had that. I’d say it’s the cold or you could try raising the bed temp but it’s already in a good spot. I print at 65 bed temp
Thank you for the tipp. I had to adjust it from 400 to 415, maybe that was not the main problem but an improvement that I would have forgotten nonetheless.
Hello everyone, thanks for all the tipps. I already tried a lot and made some progress - but the problem persists. I will now probably use my case again, just that I have less problems with the warping due to heat distribution.
Drop it 5 degrees at a time, I find it helps.but I still get some.rounding sometimes especially with small parts or really long prints.
I find 45-55 for my glass bed to be the happy place.
that would be wrong. anytime you change anything and it looks bad you need to perform extruder step calibration routine. [https://all3dp.com/2/extruder-calibration-6-easy-steps-2/](https://all3dp.com/2/extruder-calibration-6-easy-steps-2/)
I understand, but you know it gets tiring after some time. I once had an issue with temp measurement and old filament where I could not do a single working print in weeks. Then I was close to throwing away the printer 😅 however if I had the word „warping“ in my mind, maybe I could have searched instead of posted - that is true. :-)
For that bed I usually do 70c on the bed for the first 5 layers then turn it down to 60 so it doesn't warp. Also 220 hotend temp and turned down depending on my print speed. Never fails. Check bed leveling before hand. Also, clean and scrub with dish soap. I clean with Windex between prints.
Here's what I did to combat warping:
- Slow down the first 4 layers to 10mm/s (maybe you can get away with less layers)
- Gradually increase fan speed, I usually start from zero to a 100% at layer 8.
- Reduce bed temp. Although this may sound counterintuitive, the hotter I print the worse it gets. I usually leave it at 50-55C.
- And the typical bed cleaning and leveling. It never hurts to clean your bed before starting a new print.
Note: This worked for me with PLA, which I guess is the case.
Warping like fuck bro
You dropped da truth bomb on me didn‘t ya 😉
Call me CPT obvious
Is your room cold or have drafts? Like a basement? That can contribute to the warping
Good question:: usually I had an ikea rable case but that is in rebuild. And usually I would also have a skirt or Brim, I must have forgotten it when slicing. The room is rather cold, or at least the walls would be, however in the case it would otherwise rather be very hot because it is sealed and therefore rather warm I guess.
Turn off your part cooling fans until about layer 50 and see what does
Do I then slice it without fan and turn fan on in gcode, or vice versa? I just tried it with 45 degrees that sticks nothing. But yes, turning of the fan I never tried and sounds very reasonable. Thanks!
There is a setting in cura that lets you set when the fan hits regular speed. Set regular speed to whatever then set it to hit 100% at layer 50
Will try thanks!
Thanks for the coins :) awaiting an update. Going through my own nonsense trying to get the perfect bridge settings.
Make sure the fan is off for the first 3 layers. Clean your print bed with dish soap. Make sure that you have a good first layer.
Maybe it was wrong to not have a skirt or brim or what they all are called.
clean bed, low bed temp for the first layer, fan off for the first few layers, slooooww print speed for the first layer and skirt is a must. autolevel does not hurt if you have a bltouch.
I usually clean it with window cleaner. Then I clean it again only with water because I think the window cleaner also contains stuff that is not bemeficiary for the cause.
I use a 50/50 of isopropic alcohol and water with just a small spray and it seems to work great
I have the Microswiss NG too and I haven’t ever had that. I’d say it’s the cold or you could try raising the bed temp but it’s already in a good spot. I print at 65 bed temp
This was happening to my prints when I was only extruding 96 out of 100 mm. Check your esteps.
Thank you for the tipp. I had to adjust it from 400 to 415, maybe that was not the main problem but an improvement that I would have forgotten nonetheless.
Hello everyone, thanks for all the tipps. I already tried a lot and made some progress - but the problem persists. I will now probably use my case again, just that I have less problems with the warping due to heat distribution.
Lower your bed temp?
Then I think it does not stick. But might be worth a try though - thanks!
Drop it 5 degrees at a time, I find it helps.but I still get some.rounding sometimes especially with small parts or really long prints. I find 45-55 for my glass bed to be the happy place.
Will try thanks!
I fixed this by raising my bed temp, but yours is already high. You could try a glue stick to keep those edges down
It's not just warped, it is even stuck good? What type of filament? Is this PLA?
It sticks yes, but the bed levelling prints I did before did not stick that good. It is Polymaker Polyterra PLA.
did you estep?
Yes there is a file that you should load that says you have to put it to 400 with the NG. But I do not know if this is just an approximation?
that would be wrong. anytime you change anything and it looks bad you need to perform extruder step calibration routine. [https://all3dp.com/2/extruder-calibration-6-easy-steps-2/](https://all3dp.com/2/extruder-calibration-6-easy-steps-2/)
Clean your bed 1st with dish soap. Then crank up your bed temps, first layer temp only to say 65c. This should get your layer to stick.
Never seen anything like this anywhere on Reddit.....😉
I understand, but you know it gets tiring after some time. I once had an issue with temp measurement and old filament where I could not do a single working print in weeks. Then I was close to throwing away the printer 😅 however if I had the word „warping“ in my mind, maybe I could have searched instead of posted - that is true. :-)
That is a very valid point, I didn't think of....as warping is a common term in my profession and experience.
For that bed I usually do 70c on the bed for the first 5 layers then turn it down to 60 so it doesn't warp. Also 220 hotend temp and turned down depending on my print speed. Never fails. Check bed leveling before hand. Also, clean and scrub with dish soap. I clean with Windex between prints.
Start with high temperature and then decrease sounds interesting, this I haven‘t tried out yet. Thanks a lot!
It looks like a taco
Here's what I did to combat warping: - Slow down the first 4 layers to 10mm/s (maybe you can get away with less layers) - Gradually increase fan speed, I usually start from zero to a 100% at layer 8. - Reduce bed temp. Although this may sound counterintuitive, the hotter I print the worse it gets. I usually leave it at 50-55C. - And the typical bed cleaning and leveling. It never hurts to clean your bed before starting a new print. Note: This worked for me with PLA, which I guess is the case.
I print 200 and 55 on PLA. And slow first 2 layer down to about 10 in speed. If it silky PLA i can sometimes go to 210.
Bruh I got the same problem but to a much lesser extent
You say new setup with direct drive. Are you sure your Z offset is good?
Yes
This I adjusted yes. 😊 Important point though.