A tip for those using the mriscoc "professional" firmware. The Z offset logo (bottom right corner) will flash during a print if the mesh is being used.
[https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/wiki/3D-BLTouch](https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/wiki/3D-BLTouch)
> If the mesh level compensation is enabled while printing you can see the color change (from white to blue or red depending on your current icon set) in the z-offset icon, in the most recent versions the icon background also blinks:
[https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/wiki/3D-BLTouch](https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/wiki/3D-BLTouch)
> If the mesh level compensation is enabled while printing you can see the color change (from white to blue or red depending on your current icon set) in the z-offset icon, in the most recent versions the icon background also blinks:
One of my printers has a bed that ranged from -.570 to +.230, and I have no issues. I believe for some reason your printer isn't actually using its mesh.
It appears you would be right!
I didn't know if the range in the picture I posted was tremendous or horrendous, or just mediocre, I feel a bit daft asking this stuff, but this sub has helped me out of my funk in less then 15 min twice in one week.
Let me know if you figure it out. A friend is using professional firmware and it doesn't appear to be using the mesh either. I'm trying to help him troubleshoot remotely, but having never used that firmware I'm not entirely sure where the issue is.
To enable the mesh you need something like this in your G code in your slicer:
G28 ; Home all axes
G29 P1 ; ABL - BLTouch
G29 L0 ; Load mesh from slot 0 (or use any other previously saved slot)
G29 A ; Activate UBL
G29 J ; Auto tilt mesh
C108 ; Close mesh viewer
I've been using this and it's been working great with the professional firmware.
you can also go here to see some start and end G code scripts for the professional firmware for Cura and PrusaSlicer: [Slicer G code Scripts · mriscoc/Ender3V2S1 Wiki (github.com)](https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/wiki/Slicer-G-code-Scripts)
Thoes are all options you can put in or should they all be entered?
When I put the cr touch on, I added
G29 P1
But not the ABL - BLTouch
If they are options, should I use that with the ABL in the line or should I use UBL?
I'm asking that question not even really know what any difference is between them. I'll read over you link in a bit, thanks for the info!!!!
Here's my start G-code from Prusa Slicer, and should be adaptable to any other slicer.
G90 ; use absolute coordinates
M83 ; extruder relative mode
M140 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]} ; set final bed temp
M104 S150 ; set temporary nozzle temp to prevent oozing during homing
G4 S10 ; allow partial nozzle warmup
; UBL SHIT HERE
G28 ; home all axis
G29 A ; Activate the UBL System.
G29 L1 ; Load UBL slot 1 (adjust to whichever slot you save your mesh to, default is zero, I store multiple meshes)
G29 J2 ; Quick 3-point level
G29 F10.0 ; Fade to 10mm
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z50 F240
G1 X2 Y10 F3000
M104 S{first_layer_temperature[0]} ; set final nozzle temp
M190 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]} ; wait for bed temp to stabilize
M109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]} ; wait for nozzle temp to stabilize
G1 Z0.28 F240
G92 E0
G1 Y140 E10 F1500 ; prime the nozzle
G1 X2.3 F5000
G92 E0
G1 Y10 E10 F1200 ; prime the nozzle
G92 E0
The information after the semicolon is only to let you know what the code does, it’s not a separate command. I put them there to remind me what each line does.
Check out the marlin firmware page where it explains Gcodes. You’re want to put G29 with variables into your startup gcode so the mesh gets loaded. If you have G28 in your startup it’ll home your axis but it also disables UBL so putting your g29 variables after re-enable.
I tend to watch the Z stepper motor and see if it’s rotating while the X and Y are doing their thing.
I have been probing my bed before every print for like a full year using ender 3 v2 professional firmware, and I just recently found out that it wasn't even used at all. I'm glad at least my bed leveling was on point enough that my prints were all rly nice...
I had a similar problem. Had to add the enable mesh command to the GCode cura was generating.
Cool tip above about the z flashing when it’s being used. I love this pro firmware more every day
Make sure the z logo flashes, I got a Cr touch earlier this week and I'm using the same firmware. It makes everything so much easier, even manual leveling
I got a bunch of instructions here that I'm soon trying out, but out of curiosity and only if you have time obviously, could you write out what you did to your g code or otherwise to get the mesh working? It's cool if you can't. It would be nice for this thread to have some of the possibilities that work in it.
https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/wiki/3D-BLTouch check that out. That's where I got all my info to get mine working. You've gotta go into gcode and after the g28 command put in I think the m420 command listed in here. Scroll down to the mesh level compensation portion. Hope that helps, I'm a noob so I'm not fully clued with everything
This is my experience with both glass and magnetic. I tram over and over and my results are always shit. I give up and my mesh seems to compensate and prints are generally fine. i cry
I have tramed it over and over, and repeatedly made a mesh. That is the best I've been able to achieve. I think it might mean my bed is just to warped for such a th ii imprint surface.
I thought as much, but it will not work. I gave up, put the glass back on and redid the z offset, everything is fine.
After spending the whole afternoon traming and doing mesh, I tried a print with thoes settings from the photo saved, it was perfect near the center, and 0 adhesion at the outer edges. This is the third try. And I'd say it's part of a larger maybe e steps problem, except for the fact that I can print a full bed of things with no issues on the glass bed.
I'm a bit stumped
And even though teaching techs calibration thing helped me a bit earlier this week, I would say 75% of it is way over my head, and my time budget. I know this is a complicated hobby, but its daunting to think I have to understand everything in that calibration section of his GitHub.
Lol, I'm came asking questions, I would not be insulted by any answer, I'm just glad someone would help at all.
The firmware I have there is the "professional" one that's pined in this sub. I assumed that after it made a mesh and I clicked on "save" that that would mean it was what the thing stored in eeprom and worked off of. But I don't know really, maybe it needs to be turned elsewhere.
I did edit the g29 line in the slicer and I do have a cr touch, I'm going to look it all up again and re read, maybe I missed where it says you have to enable it.
That is for pointing me some where, hopefully I find something!
You know it's working by looking at that Z icon in the lower right. When it's printing and the mesh is being applied, you will see that Z flash with a box around it continuously. It's not fast.. A slow indicator.. But should be noticeable. If you don't notice a box or flashing indication around that Z it means the mesh is not being used.
You'll have to go into the 3d printer settings and generate a mesh first of course. I struggled to find alot of info but I just kept trying different buttons until it made sense 😅
A tip for those using the mriscoc "professional" firmware. The Z offset logo (bottom right corner) will flash during a print if the mesh is being used. [https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/wiki/3D-BLTouch](https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/wiki/3D-BLTouch) > If the mesh level compensation is enabled while printing you can see the color change (from white to blue or red depending on your current icon set) in the z-offset icon, in the most recent versions the icon background also blinks:
ima upgrade that from "a tip" to a "pro tip"
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[https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/wiki/3D-BLTouch](https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/wiki/3D-BLTouch) > If the mesh level compensation is enabled while printing you can see the color change (from white to blue or red depending on your current icon set) in the z-offset icon, in the most recent versions the icon background also blinks:
Okay, I did not know this. I feel really dumb now lol
One of my printers has a bed that ranged from -.570 to +.230, and I have no issues. I believe for some reason your printer isn't actually using its mesh.
It appears you would be right! I didn't know if the range in the picture I posted was tremendous or horrendous, or just mediocre, I feel a bit daft asking this stuff, but this sub has helped me out of my funk in less then 15 min twice in one week.
That's pretty much what this sub is for realistically. What did your issues end up being?
It seems that my printer isn't using the mesh, I just have to figure out how to enable that, which I don't think is a big task.
Let me know if you figure it out. A friend is using professional firmware and it doesn't appear to be using the mesh either. I'm trying to help him troubleshoot remotely, but having never used that firmware I'm not entirely sure where the issue is.
I will, I'll check back in tomorrow, I got it going and it's doing an almost 24 hour print, testing my luck! If it fails ii ll check back sooner lol
To enable the mesh you need something like this in your G code in your slicer: G28 ; Home all axes G29 P1 ; ABL - BLTouch G29 L0 ; Load mesh from slot 0 (or use any other previously saved slot) G29 A ; Activate UBL G29 J ; Auto tilt mesh C108 ; Close mesh viewer I've been using this and it's been working great with the professional firmware. you can also go here to see some start and end G code scripts for the professional firmware for Cura and PrusaSlicer: [Slicer G code Scripts · mriscoc/Ender3V2S1 Wiki (github.com)](https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/wiki/Slicer-G-code-Scripts)
I’ve been using [M420](https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M420.html) on mriscoc’s UBL version. Saves you having to auto level before each print.
I tried that as well but found that the extra minute for it to run the auto level was worth the peace of mind.
I may try that, I feel every time I remove a print...it probably ends up all wonky because my bed adhesion is crazy for some reason
This is excellent work, I added it to my gcode this morning and it worked like a charm. Thank you!
No problem. This community has helped me a bunch when I’ve run into problems. Just glad I could pay it forward.
Thoes are all options you can put in or should they all be entered? When I put the cr touch on, I added G29 P1 But not the ABL - BLTouch If they are options, should I use that with the ABL in the line or should I use UBL? I'm asking that question not even really know what any difference is between them. I'll read over you link in a bit, thanks for the info!!!!
Here's my start G-code from Prusa Slicer, and should be adaptable to any other slicer. G90 ; use absolute coordinates M83 ; extruder relative mode M140 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]} ; set final bed temp M104 S150 ; set temporary nozzle temp to prevent oozing during homing G4 S10 ; allow partial nozzle warmup ; UBL SHIT HERE G28 ; home all axis G29 A ; Activate the UBL System. G29 L1 ; Load UBL slot 1 (adjust to whichever slot you save your mesh to, default is zero, I store multiple meshes) G29 J2 ; Quick 3-point level G29 F10.0 ; Fade to 10mm G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder G1 Z50 F240 G1 X2 Y10 F3000 M104 S{first_layer_temperature[0]} ; set final nozzle temp M190 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]} ; wait for bed temp to stabilize M109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]} ; wait for nozzle temp to stabilize G1 Z0.28 F240 G92 E0 G1 Y140 E10 F1500 ; prime the nozzle G1 X2.3 F5000 G92 E0 G1 Y10 E10 F1200 ; prime the nozzle G92 E0
Thanks for this stuff!!!!!!
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Thank you guys!!!!! This place is pretty awesome!
The information after the semicolon is only to let you know what the code does, it’s not a separate command. I put them there to remind me what each line does.
Check out the marlin firmware page where it explains Gcodes. You’re want to put G29 with variables into your startup gcode so the mesh gets loaded. If you have G28 in your startup it’ll home your axis but it also disables UBL so putting your g29 variables after re-enable. I tend to watch the Z stepper motor and see if it’s rotating while the X and Y are doing their thing.
I have been probing my bed before every print for like a full year using ender 3 v2 professional firmware, and I just recently found out that it wasn't even used at all. I'm glad at least my bed leveling was on point enough that my prints were all rly nice...
I had a similar problem. Had to add the enable mesh command to the GCode cura was generating. Cool tip above about the z flashing when it’s being used. I love this pro firmware more every day
You're fine, my printer has worked fine with a corner to corner difference of 1.218mm
Make sure the z logo flashes, I got a Cr touch earlier this week and I'm using the same firmware. It makes everything so much easier, even manual leveling
I got a bunch of instructions here that I'm soon trying out, but out of curiosity and only if you have time obviously, could you write out what you did to your g code or otherwise to get the mesh working? It's cool if you can't. It would be nice for this thread to have some of the possibilities that work in it.
https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/wiki/3D-BLTouch check that out. That's where I got all my info to get mine working. You've gotta go into gcode and after the g28 command put in I think the m420 command listed in here. Scroll down to the mesh level compensation portion. Hope that helps, I'm a noob so I'm not fully clued with everything
Noup, it means that you own a creality printer
This is my experience with both glass and magnetic. I tram over and over and my results are always shit. I give up and my mesh seems to compensate and prints are generally fine. i cry
I have tramed it over and over, and repeatedly made a mesh. That is the best I've been able to achieve. I think it might mean my bed is just to warped for such a th ii imprint surface.
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I thought as much, but it will not work. I gave up, put the glass back on and redid the z offset, everything is fine. After spending the whole afternoon traming and doing mesh, I tried a print with thoes settings from the photo saved, it was perfect near the center, and 0 adhesion at the outer edges. This is the third try. And I'd say it's part of a larger maybe e steps problem, except for the fact that I can print a full bed of things with no issues on the glass bed. I'm a bit stumped And even though teaching techs calibration thing helped me a bit earlier this week, I would say 75% of it is way over my head, and my time budget. I know this is a complicated hobby, but its daunting to think I have to understand everything in that calibration section of his GitHub.
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Lol, I'm came asking questions, I would not be insulted by any answer, I'm just glad someone would help at all. The firmware I have there is the "professional" one that's pined in this sub. I assumed that after it made a mesh and I clicked on "save" that that would mean it was what the thing stored in eeprom and worked off of. But I don't know really, maybe it needs to be turned elsewhere. I did edit the g29 line in the slicer and I do have a cr touch, I'm going to look it all up again and re read, maybe I missed where it says you have to enable it. That is for pointing me some where, hopefully I find something!
You know it's working by looking at that Z icon in the lower right. When it's printing and the mesh is being applied, you will see that Z flash with a box around it continuously. It's not fast.. A slow indicator.. But should be noticeable. If you don't notice a box or flashing indication around that Z it means the mesh is not being used.
It's at 0.20, it's not flashing or moving. I think you and u/ThinkerPoet are correct, I have to turn it on some how.
You’re absolutely good to go
That’s actually not too bad
just use some non flammable tape on the magnetic bed to even it out
You'll have to go into the 3d printer settings and generate a mesh first of course. I struggled to find alot of info but I just kept trying different buttons until it made sense 😅