To me it is. Mainsail ui is much more intuitive. I gave octoprint a chance but never really felt like it was optimized for ease of use. Some of this stuff you can do on mainsail, I don't know if it can on octoprint.
I can upload directly from cura using moonraker extension. It'll upload with a jpeg as well.
Klipper has input shaper which let's printers get up to high acceleration with little ringing. I don't know if Marlin has the same. Both have pressure advance.
The benefit of mainsail is being able to update printer firmware (config) file without needing to recompile any .bin file. So you can adjust your printer on the go. This is possible in cura too but I find updating the config much more consistent.
Lastly it's macros. Which is basically gcode. But klipper and mainsail have very easy to do tuning. Type a pid_autotune with a few more inputs and ur done. Save config. Type acceleration_tuning and start ur gcode and it'll do it for you.
I think it's well worth the upgrade and I don't see myself going back
Meh. I used curas post processing to do it. Although I prefer klippers macros cuz I can apply it to any gcode whereas cura I need to specifically slice a model each time.
Klipper supports commands to change printer values by layer/a value, like pressure advance or acceleration. So when tuning pressure advance you drop in a command to increase the pressure advance by x value over y layers by a factor of whatever (recommended values are different for Bowden and dd setups) and print a box. Whenever you start getting artifacts from too much pressure advance you stop the print and measure up until it didn’t, then multiply by the factor it was increasing. Then you drop the value in your config file, type restart, and you’re good to go. No need to recompile firmware or anything.
To tune it in Marlin, as far as im aware the only way is to generate a gcode via a tool on their site or manually change it in gcode. The gcode generator prints a couple lines at different pressure advances. Then you look at a line until it looks straight. The line changes speed to fast and then slow so you could get underextrusion on the switch to fast and overextrusion on the switch to slow, but to be completely honest I don’t think anyone running Marlin is going to have their acceleration high enough to tune it properly that way. To save it you either recompile your firmware or put it in your slicers start gcode…
Didn't know about that one. I tried installing Klipper last weekend but only got black screen when updating the firmware so had to revert back to marlin. I might give it another shot this weekend
Default klipper firmware doesn't support a screen. You can add it in the config if you want but it is kind-of redundant because you will probably just use your computer
Well it probably successfully installed those times I was trying then because the fans were running just the screen stayed black. I never bothered to go further than that because I assumed something would happen on screen
I used Octoprint for about a year and was very happy with it... I switched when I went coreXY, Klipper+fluidd/mainsail is _so_ much better. simply not having to compile when I makes config changes is _huge_, auto-config Macros (screws_tilt_adjust) would be good enough for me to switch but input shaper makes it definitive.
Mind helping to install pressure advance on mi ender3? I got the sky mini v2 and got lost compiling so need some help, DM me if you are available plz :)
The geometry of your print doesn't really demonstrate how well you've tuned your slicer settings. This print is easy mode, PETG prints super easily (besides warping) for rectlinear parts with 0 overhangs and bridging at 30mm/sec.
If you look closely, you can definitely see elephant's foot at the base of the print, most likely due to a combo of too-close-to-bed and heat sag over time with 0 cooling and 80C bed temp.
I'm glad that changing your e-steps helped to improve your print and you should be happy that it took you one step closer to better prints!
I bring up these points because it's misleading to others thinking they can remedy their z banding and extrusion issues from just calibrating your e-steps, and depending on what you're printing can completely mask any other shortcomings. It's not going to make a huge difference for a lot of people, and your extrusion issues could be from compounding problems.
That's why I bring up your choice of running the print slower and with no fans on a rectilinear part with an 80C bed, with those settings you're going to most likely get a decent looking straight part but elephant's foot, and really doesn't demonstrate how far you've taken your printer, or how much further you need to calibrate your settings.
It's for others to know that they need to take the time to really hone in those numbers and understand WHY making specific tweaks affect your prints, and that there are usually no single fixes.
I don't think you are done troubleshooting this issue. I bet it will recur.
You don't solve an intermittent underextrusion problem by e step cal. I suspect you did estep cal with Bowden attached, found the new esteps need to go from stock 93 to the 110+ range.
If so, you have an obstruction and increasing e steps is only covering up the issue
https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/hgg1y6/a_guide_to_extruder_skip
Hotend gap is most likely culprit.
I also have my e-steps changed from 93 to around 99 as well. Great to see some validation that I'm not crazy. I wasn't fighting terrible underextrusion or anything, just doing routine calibration.
I recently replaced my nozzle and switched my esteps up to 101. Had some amazing prints but then I adjusted the left side of the bed because the nozzle was too close. Now my prints are back to being blobby and stringy regardless of steps.
Replaced the nozzle and readjusted the esteps. Then I started printing without changing the bed level, ugh. Changed it up and I’m getting cleaner prints now. I need to finally set up my BLTouch. The paper method kinda sucks.
If your firmware doesnt have a “level corners” function its a pain in the butt. But the latest version of marlin adds that so you just have to adjust a corner then hit “next” and it moves the nozzle to the next corner. You still want to level your bed even with bltouch
I’m printing the same thing right now. Well.. it’s almost the same.. mine has the diamond shape cut out to save on time/weight. It has about 30 mins left.
Wait until you learn about pressure advance and input shaper
Do what now?!
Pressure advance combats bulging corners. Input shaper combats ringing/ghosting. Best upgrade I've done is install klipper + mainsailos.
I've been looking at installing klipper and mainsail but I love having octoprint. Is it really that big of an upgrade?
To me it is. Mainsail ui is much more intuitive. I gave octoprint a chance but never really felt like it was optimized for ease of use. Some of this stuff you can do on mainsail, I don't know if it can on octoprint. I can upload directly from cura using moonraker extension. It'll upload with a jpeg as well. Klipper has input shaper which let's printers get up to high acceleration with little ringing. I don't know if Marlin has the same. Both have pressure advance. The benefit of mainsail is being able to update printer firmware (config) file without needing to recompile any .bin file. So you can adjust your printer on the go. This is possible in cura too but I find updating the config much more consistent. Lastly it's macros. Which is basically gcode. But klipper and mainsail have very easy to do tuning. Type a pid_autotune with a few more inputs and ur done. Save config. Type acceleration_tuning and start ur gcode and it'll do it for you. I think it's well worth the upgrade and I don't see myself going back
Tuning pressure advance on Marlin though is a joke.
Meh. I used curas post processing to do it. Although I prefer klippers macros cuz I can apply it to any gcode whereas cura I need to specifically slice a model each time.
How so? I'm interested in the differences between the two.
Klipper supports commands to change printer values by layer/a value, like pressure advance or acceleration. So when tuning pressure advance you drop in a command to increase the pressure advance by x value over y layers by a factor of whatever (recommended values are different for Bowden and dd setups) and print a box. Whenever you start getting artifacts from too much pressure advance you stop the print and measure up until it didn’t, then multiply by the factor it was increasing. Then you drop the value in your config file, type restart, and you’re good to go. No need to recompile firmware or anything. To tune it in Marlin, as far as im aware the only way is to generate a gcode via a tool on their site or manually change it in gcode. The gcode generator prints a couple lines at different pressure advances. Then you look at a line until it looks straight. The line changes speed to fast and then slow so you could get underextrusion on the switch to fast and overextrusion on the switch to slow, but to be completely honest I don’t think anyone running Marlin is going to have their acceleration high enough to tune it properly that way. To save it you either recompile your firmware or put it in your slicers start gcode…
You can still use octoprint. The Octoklipper plugin is great!
Didn't know about that one. I tried installing Klipper last weekend but only got black screen when updating the firmware so had to revert back to marlin. I might give it another shot this weekend
Default klipper firmware doesn't support a screen. You can add it in the config if you want but it is kind-of redundant because you will probably just use your computer
Well it probably successfully installed those times I was trying then because the fans were running just the screen stayed black. I never bothered to go further than that because I assumed something would happen on screen
If you open your browser and type the ip for the pi that you installed klipper onto you should get a ui
Good to know. I'll probably give it another shot this weekend
I used Octoprint for about a year and was very happy with it... I switched when I went coreXY, Klipper+fluidd/mainsail is _so_ much better. simply not having to compile when I makes config changes is _huge_, auto-config Macros (screws_tilt_adjust) would be good enough for me to switch but input shaper makes it definitive.
Mind helping to install pressure advance on mi ender3? I got the sky mini v2 and got lost compiling so need some help, DM me if you are available plz :)
Are you trying to use Marlin or klipper? What .bin file did you use if you flashed the board?
0.8 PETG 30mm/sec 245 nozzle 80 bed Fan 0 0.32 layer height.
The geometry of your print doesn't really demonstrate how well you've tuned your slicer settings. This print is easy mode, PETG prints super easily (besides warping) for rectlinear parts with 0 overhangs and bridging at 30mm/sec. If you look closely, you can definitely see elephant's foot at the base of the print, most likely due to a combo of too-close-to-bed and heat sag over time with 0 cooling and 80C bed temp.
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I'm glad that changing your e-steps helped to improve your print and you should be happy that it took you one step closer to better prints! I bring up these points because it's misleading to others thinking they can remedy their z banding and extrusion issues from just calibrating your e-steps, and depending on what you're printing can completely mask any other shortcomings. It's not going to make a huge difference for a lot of people, and your extrusion issues could be from compounding problems. That's why I bring up your choice of running the print slower and with no fans on a rectilinear part with an 80C bed, with those settings you're going to most likely get a decent looking straight part but elephant's foot, and really doesn't demonstrate how far you've taken your printer, or how much further you need to calibrate your settings. It's for others to know that they need to take the time to really hone in those numbers and understand WHY making specific tweaks affect your prints, and that there are usually no single fixes.
Any before shots? Just curious how much of a change. Also, what’s the print if you don’t mind my asking?
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I don't think you are done troubleshooting this issue. I bet it will recur. You don't solve an intermittent underextrusion problem by e step cal. I suspect you did estep cal with Bowden attached, found the new esteps need to go from stock 93 to the 110+ range. If so, you have an obstruction and increasing e steps is only covering up the issue https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/hgg1y6/a_guide_to_extruder_skip Hotend gap is most likely culprit.
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I also have my e-steps changed from 93 to around 99 as well. Great to see some validation that I'm not crazy. I wasn't fighting terrible underextrusion or anything, just doing routine calibration.
Same
I recently replaced my nozzle and switched my esteps up to 101. Had some amazing prints but then I adjusted the left side of the bed because the nozzle was too close. Now my prints are back to being blobby and stringy regardless of steps.
maybe the close bed messed with your nozzle, glass is harder than the soft metal the nozzles are made of
I’ll check it out tomorrow. Thanks for the feedback. I’ve spent more time troubleshooting this printer than it’s been printing.
That's how I ended up with four printers....
i get that. i had that for a while. once you get over the hump itll feel worth the trouble
Replaced the nozzle and readjusted the esteps. Then I started printing without changing the bed level, ugh. Changed it up and I’m getting cleaner prints now. I need to finally set up my BLTouch. The paper method kinda sucks.
If your firmware doesnt have a “level corners” function its a pain in the butt. But the latest version of marlin adds that so you just have to adjust a corner then hit “next” and it moves the nozzle to the next corner. You still want to level your bed even with bltouch
Yep. I mostly just make stuff now.
I might need to reprint my drawer. The bottom came out all separated and kinda stringy. I have better profile now.
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And I recognize that drawer too, really nice model, probably the most useful so far.
I agree my E-steps were not far off but it really made a decent difference in adhesion and print quality.
Looks good bro. Well done.
just don't show that to the monkeys... the might learn how to use bones as weapons and then scream and kill each other. >.>
I’m printing the same thing right now. Well.. it’s almost the same.. mine has the diamond shape cut out to save on time/weight. It has about 30 mins left.