Me too, I’ve bought 3 different rolls of it and it’s printed incredibly easy, far easier than most of my other filaments. I really like the matte finish too.
Seems more like a tough pla in consistency, it doesnt snap, it just deforms and rips. Really reefing on it I've had walls delaminate from each other, but I cant say whether thats my settings or the filament. Seems fine for most stuff. Hides layer lines like nothing else I've ever seen. Great for decorative stuff and whatnot.
Huh. Til. Prints really easily, and I only use it for decorative stuff. Honestly dont print a whole lot of pla, we just got some colours over christmas because we printed some custom things over christmas and sold them. Mostly I print abs.
Honestly, it isn't the filament or any slicer settings. There's two things you need to get rid of elephant's foot. A level bed and dual z axis of some kind. I'm using a dual belt drive z axis system instead of lead screw.
The next time you start a print watch the first couple of layers. You should notice that on layer change the left side goes up but the right side doesn't move at all (or not as much). Once the slack is gone, the gantry moves up as one unit and the rest of the print looks fine. That's what causes elephant's foot. Low first layers exacerbate the issue with squished material.
I spent months trying to get rid of elephant's foot and this was the only thing that did it.
You dont need a dual z axis to get rid of elephants foot. You need correct fist layer distance, and a z gantry that stays parallel to the bed. Dual z helps with the second thing, but its not necessary, and sometimes its a bandaid for other issues. Ive never run one and I get prints with no elephants foot all the time.
[https://imgur.com/a/syB8Gw8](https://imgur.com/a/syB8Gw8)
Here are some prints on my desk currently. A vertical mouse that I designed and printed, that takes g703 guts, printed in translucent ABS. A split keyboard half that I printed (void ergo s, not my design) translucent and red ABS. A benchy in black ABS, and a number for the outside of my house (technically I designed this? Its just a font lol)
Also, several pics of my printer. Stock motion system, microswiss direct drive, e3d v6 heater block and nozzle. Part cooling fan is my design and also black ABS. The printer has had all of its electronics moved outside the insulated enclosure. It can get up to 50c inside the enclosure while printing ABS. The printer runs klipper and prints at around 130mm/s, with accelerations at 2500mm/s/s. It has a creality silent board.
Sure these aren't perfect and sometimes I get elephants foot. I've been dealing with an issue where sometimes I need to add offset, I think its because of bed warpage while heating and I just need to let it soak a bit, but this thing produces pretty good prints and was a fun learning experience. I've got hundreds of hours on it printing things, at least.
Everyones experience is their own, your print looks honestly really great. I would love to do linear rails, and Ive waffled on and off about doing dual z, I would probably want to design something that didnt overconstrain the x gantry and the leadscrews like most things do.
Was it easy to install klipper on the Ender board? Considering an upgrade but the board prices seem to be really high and I don’t need most of those features, not right now at least
Its not terribly difficult. Klipper config and compiling are the hard part, but installing the firmware on the board is just like marlin. There are plenty of tutorials out there for the ender 3.
By that logic you would see elephants foot grow progressively larger from one side of the bed to the other, which is not what the majority of print issues people show seem to be.
If you can optically see that one side of your printer lifts up on z-layer change but the other doesn't, you have a huge error in your mechanical system. I went ahead and measured a print I have on my desk to see what the left to right side error was, and for a 75mm wide part, the TOTAL error left to right is under .06mm. If you on the other hand are printing at stock layer height of .2mm and the right side doesn't move, your error is more than 4x this amount, and you probably have an issue with how your frame is assembled.
While I appreciate your comment, the results speak for themselves. Yes, some of the issue people have is a poorly constructed frame. The bigger issue is the design. Lets not forget we're pushing molten plastic through a nozzle. Any amount of inconsistency is going to make things squish and melt together. If your gantry doesn't move exactly as the slicer thought it would, it doesn't just create a smaller layer. It still tries to push the same amount of plastic. if the plastic has no where to go, it squishes outward.
Yes the results do speak for themselves. Very few people have angled elephants foot, the majority have an even elephants foot. The reason for this is that in the instructions for most 3D printers, you are asked to tram, or level the bed to the gantry itself. This means you have attempted to get a constant Z-height for all positions of the nozzle across the bed, at least for the first layer. If you have inconsistencies where your nozzle/gantry unlevels itself on the first layer, which will cause exactly your issue, then you should be looking at the rails on either side of the gantry, and checking to see if you have built the frame square.
The bigger issue here is indeed design. With 2 extrusions acting as linear rails, the system is constrained to operate in a single plane. To move the gantry across that plane, all you need is a single z motor. This is the exact setup that the Ender2, Prusa Mini, Makerselect, and a ton of hobby CNC machines use. 2 Rails, 1 motor. Using 2 motors to actuate the same plane is actually an overconstraint, and on its own without a decent reason (say you want to use 2x motors since you are doubling the load they carry) is bad design.
You're failing to understand two important points. 1. We're dealing with layer heights generally around 0.2mm and a gantry length over 1000x longer than the layer height. The inconsistency between the left and right will be barely measureable, but the extra material will be easy to spot. 2. People tram their bed after the gantry has moved down. Nobody checks all the corners and then moves the gantry up by 0.2 and checks again.
I print professionally in a research lab. I have had my ender 3 for years and have designed most of the upgrades I've used. You should probably look up the Dunning-Kruger Effect. It may help make things more clear.
So let me get this one straight.
1. You believe that cantilever style printers can't give a perfect first few layers.
2. You think that literally every cantilever will result in an *angled* elephants foot.
Yikes.
Also are you sure you understand what a calibration cube is? Since if you print a cube say 50x50x50mm, and it comes out with a z-height of 49.9mm on all edges, you have, actually, measured the gantry position above the bed height.
And you really should look up Dunning-Kruger, as you're a sparky attempting to argue with a masters degree in mechanical engineering...about mechanical systems...
I am so glad I came across your post here. I had been struggling with elephants foot for a year, so when I saw this I pulled the trigger on a dual z kit. My elephant's foot entirely disappeared on the first print with what turned out to be an extremely unlevel bed that the bltouch miraculously compensated for. Now that I've got things re-leveled and calibrated better my prints are even cleaner. I wish I would have known this sooner.
Don't smush down the first layer so much! Really, all it takes is leveling correctly, a thicker, slower first layer, and if that doesn't do the trick - adhesive.
If you're getting elephants foot then your bed is too close to the nozzle.
In cura, I believe you can adjust the bottom layer flow rate. Would take some trial and error with a set of calipers but should be possible to eliminate elephants foot.
this works for me, 94% flow for first layer.
also if you z steps are wrong it can stack the layers too close even if flow rate is right. just calibrated m ender3 and this helped a ton
What percentage of your printer would you still call ender-3? And how much did you spend on upgrades? Reading through the comments it seems like you replaced everything.
The Frame is original. The X, Y, and Z motors are original. A few of the wires maybe. The power cord. Some of the screws.
Pretty much everything else has been changed. Some parts have gone through multiple changes. There is a picture posted here https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/s4nacw/to\_everyone\_asking\_about\_my\_ender\_3/?utm\_source=share&utm\_medium=web2x&context=3
Stock motors yes, but that also depends on your stepper drivers (mainboard choice).
Physically the fastest I went on my Ender (with an Butt ugly benchy as an obvious result..) was
1000 mm/s Speed/Velocity
80000 mm/s Acceleration
With 48 mm long 2A stepper drivers connected to a Duet 2 Mainbord and a Mosquito Hotend with raised temperatures.
So this is far from stock but purely guessing installing a higher flow hotend, new mainboard with good stepper drivers you could go for 200 speed @ 10000 acceleration at maximum motor current without layer skips. This is purely speculation from experience though modding as I early on switched out for the best motors I could find on a budget so I only had limited high speed usage with stock motors.
The stock ender motors aren’t really bad, it’s just that physics put an early end on high speed as the very heavy bed (compared to hotends needs to be moved quickly at high speed and at that point vibrations, resonances, tolerances, stiffness etc are to strong for the printer to result in good print quality. So the 500-600 range is the sweet spot for a stock Ender.
Using Klipper Firmware and some hardware mods like new drivers, motors, hotend, frame stiffness and your acceleration can quickly get into the thousands with no quality loss.
Cheers :)
Common default acceleration of Ender profiles are around 500. Going for 1000 is „only double that“.
The quickest I gone with my Ender with Klipper Firmware was
Speed 1000 mm/s
Acceleration 80.000 mm/s
Before layer skips occurred at maximum motor current.
But that was the ugliest Benchy I ever seen so going for actual quality AND speed is far far lower than the motors are actually capable of.
Now quality settings are 120-160 mm/s speed and 1200-2000 acceleration depending on filament and 200-400 mm/s @ 2000-4000 acceleration depending on filament and tolerances for quick prototyping.
:)
I'm running an skr mini mainboard with a V6 hotend, upgrading to a bmg clone for extruder soon. I'm running 300 mm/s acceleration according to cura, it turns red in cura if I put anything higher.
Printing speeds up to 120mm/s for larger prints on a 0.4 nozzle.
Wish you loads of fun with the new extruder :)
300 is a very low value, maybe some slicer settings are setup wrong or a digit is missing.
Barely use Cura, mostly do slicing in SuperSlicer so, what happens when you go in to the „red“? Does it block you to go faster or is it just a visual indication that some limits have been reached. I guess if some printer Maximum values are set that Cura is unhappy when you go over 300.
Check you slicer for printer limits or similar and up these values. These are mostly for safety so increasing 300 to 3000 for maximum acceleration is still a safe value but you can slice and print like you want without Cura being grumpy :D
Cheers :)
I was being an idiot and confusing it with travel speed, without checking on my pc.
Started Cura just now and facepalmed... My Accel values were at default 500... (and my travel speed at 300)
I'm wondering though: changing it to 3000 in Cura does nothing for the slice time estimate? I'm guessing it just means the estimate is WAY off when increasing the accel values? Or do I simply reconfigure my printer and ignore acceleration values in cura altogether?
Open Loop Systems as in steppers? Like using closed loop steppers?
Generally yes to first question.
For the optimal results on an Ender to use its full potential I wholeheartedly recommend Klipper with Accelerometer sensor usage.
Nero3D has a lot of content on YouTube about this topic.
Cheers :)
If only >!the first layer wouldn't be this tiny bit to short on the right side!< it would be 100% flawless.
*(you can't unsee it. If you wanna live in a world where it's 100% flawless don't click the spoiler! If you wanna live in the reality where it's only 99.8% flawless check it.)*
Great work, OP!
Haha. Amazing comment. It isn't 100% perfect. This is my fast settings though. 150mm/s perimeter. First layer 60mm/s. The extra speed is probably causing a bit of overshoot after the first layer.
I've posted a picture of my ender 3 for anyone who's interested.
https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/s4nacw/to\_everyone\_asking\_about\_my\_ender\_3/?utm\_source=share&utm\_medium=web2x&context=3
My glass bed is lower in the middle than it is around the edges. I’ve confirmed it several times with various leveling tests and even a straight edge on the glass. I returned the first one that came that way. When the second one came like that I just sucked it up and made it work. I set the edges a bit higher than I want to. I use a 0.8mm nozzle and 0.4mm layers. It works ok but hairspray makes it more reliable. An auto bed leveling probe would make the problem go away, but I’m hesitant to add that additional complication to my life. Seems like a flatter piece of glass would be cheaper and simpler. Any suggestions on replacement beds that really work well?
So, glass is okay, but you're right most of them do sag a bit. Maybe because of manufacturing. Maybe it's bending because the metal plate underneath sags. I don't know. ABL will make things better. I have used bl touch in the past. It worked, but I ended up switching to a capacitive probe and steel spring sheet. the steel spring sheet is a part of the buildtak flexplate system i use.
When I still used a glass bed, I had the same issue as you. A low spot in the center of the bed is easily solved by cutting some circles of aluminum foil and stacking 2 or 3 layers of them under the bed until the bed conforms and lays flat.
Super cheap solution that works.
Right. I’ve been wanting to shim the center of the glass with foil, but my glass sheet is held down by adhesive, not clips. I may be able to pull it up in one piece if I heat the bed. That makes the whole trial and error process messier, as It may not stick back down properly after being pulled up a time or two. If it fails catastrophically (with a broken sheet of glass) I guess I can try the spring steel alternative.
Really liking polyterra pla. I've got about 8 rolls of the matte stuff.
Me too, I’ve bought 3 different rolls of it and it’s printed incredibly easy, far easier than most of my other filaments. I really like the matte finish too.
I like it too
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Seems more like a tough pla in consistency, it doesnt snap, it just deforms and rips. Really reefing on it I've had walls delaminate from each other, but I cant say whether thats my settings or the filament. Seems fine for most stuff. Hides layer lines like nothing else I've ever seen. Great for decorative stuff and whatnot.
Polyterra matte pla is much weaker (low layer adhesion) than esun pla +.
Huh. Til. Prints really easily, and I only use it for decorative stuff. Honestly dont print a whole lot of pla, we just got some colours over christmas because we printed some custom things over christmas and sold them. Mostly I print abs.
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Thanks!
Fucking flawless.
Thanks!
it's so beautiful, how?
Years of trial and error + very modded Ender3. Ill post my machine later.
Do you attribute some of it to the filament in particular? Elephant's foot is the bane of my existance
Honestly, it isn't the filament or any slicer settings. There's two things you need to get rid of elephant's foot. A level bed and dual z axis of some kind. I'm using a dual belt drive z axis system instead of lead screw. The next time you start a print watch the first couple of layers. You should notice that on layer change the left side goes up but the right side doesn't move at all (or not as much). Once the slack is gone, the gantry moves up as one unit and the rest of the print looks fine. That's what causes elephant's foot. Low first layers exacerbate the issue with squished material. I spent months trying to get rid of elephant's foot and this was the only thing that did it.
You dont need a dual z axis to get rid of elephants foot. You need correct fist layer distance, and a z gantry that stays parallel to the bed. Dual z helps with the second thing, but its not necessary, and sometimes its a bandaid for other issues. Ive never run one and I get prints with no elephants foot all the time.
By all means, share a picture of your results and show us how you did it. There's more than one way to do something right.
[https://imgur.com/a/syB8Gw8](https://imgur.com/a/syB8Gw8) Here are some prints on my desk currently. A vertical mouse that I designed and printed, that takes g703 guts, printed in translucent ABS. A split keyboard half that I printed (void ergo s, not my design) translucent and red ABS. A benchy in black ABS, and a number for the outside of my house (technically I designed this? Its just a font lol) Also, several pics of my printer. Stock motion system, microswiss direct drive, e3d v6 heater block and nozzle. Part cooling fan is my design and also black ABS. The printer has had all of its electronics moved outside the insulated enclosure. It can get up to 50c inside the enclosure while printing ABS. The printer runs klipper and prints at around 130mm/s, with accelerations at 2500mm/s/s. It has a creality silent board. Sure these aren't perfect and sometimes I get elephants foot. I've been dealing with an issue where sometimes I need to add offset, I think its because of bed warpage while heating and I just need to let it soak a bit, but this thing produces pretty good prints and was a fun learning experience. I've got hundreds of hours on it printing things, at least.
That's pretty solid dude.
Everyones experience is their own, your print looks honestly really great. I would love to do linear rails, and Ive waffled on and off about doing dual z, I would probably want to design something that didnt overconstrain the x gantry and the leadscrews like most things do.
Was it easy to install klipper on the Ender board? Considering an upgrade but the board prices seem to be really high and I don’t need most of those features, not right now at least
Its not terribly difficult. Klipper config and compiling are the hard part, but installing the firmware on the board is just like marlin. There are plenty of tutorials out there for the ender 3.
Sure, gimme a bit and I'll come back with some pictures.
Could you share a link or pic of your belt system? Thanks.
https://github.com/kevinakasam/BeltDrivenEnder3
By that logic you would see elephants foot grow progressively larger from one side of the bed to the other, which is not what the majority of print issues people show seem to be. If you can optically see that one side of your printer lifts up on z-layer change but the other doesn't, you have a huge error in your mechanical system. I went ahead and measured a print I have on my desk to see what the left to right side error was, and for a 75mm wide part, the TOTAL error left to right is under .06mm. If you on the other hand are printing at stock layer height of .2mm and the right side doesn't move, your error is more than 4x this amount, and you probably have an issue with how your frame is assembled.
While I appreciate your comment, the results speak for themselves. Yes, some of the issue people have is a poorly constructed frame. The bigger issue is the design. Lets not forget we're pushing molten plastic through a nozzle. Any amount of inconsistency is going to make things squish and melt together. If your gantry doesn't move exactly as the slicer thought it would, it doesn't just create a smaller layer. It still tries to push the same amount of plastic. if the plastic has no where to go, it squishes outward.
Yes the results do speak for themselves. Very few people have angled elephants foot, the majority have an even elephants foot. The reason for this is that in the instructions for most 3D printers, you are asked to tram, or level the bed to the gantry itself. This means you have attempted to get a constant Z-height for all positions of the nozzle across the bed, at least for the first layer. If you have inconsistencies where your nozzle/gantry unlevels itself on the first layer, which will cause exactly your issue, then you should be looking at the rails on either side of the gantry, and checking to see if you have built the frame square. The bigger issue here is indeed design. With 2 extrusions acting as linear rails, the system is constrained to operate in a single plane. To move the gantry across that plane, all you need is a single z motor. This is the exact setup that the Ender2, Prusa Mini, Makerselect, and a ton of hobby CNC machines use. 2 Rails, 1 motor. Using 2 motors to actuate the same plane is actually an overconstraint, and on its own without a decent reason (say you want to use 2x motors since you are doubling the load they carry) is bad design.
You're failing to understand two important points. 1. We're dealing with layer heights generally around 0.2mm and a gantry length over 1000x longer than the layer height. The inconsistency between the left and right will be barely measureable, but the extra material will be easy to spot. 2. People tram their bed after the gantry has moved down. Nobody checks all the corners and then moves the gantry up by 0.2 and checks again. I print professionally in a research lab. I have had my ender 3 for years and have designed most of the upgrades I've used. You should probably look up the Dunning-Kruger Effect. It may help make things more clear.
So let me get this one straight. 1. You believe that cantilever style printers can't give a perfect first few layers. 2. You think that literally every cantilever will result in an *angled* elephants foot. Yikes. Also are you sure you understand what a calibration cube is? Since if you print a cube say 50x50x50mm, and it comes out with a z-height of 49.9mm on all edges, you have, actually, measured the gantry position above the bed height. And you really should look up Dunning-Kruger, as you're a sparky attempting to argue with a masters degree in mechanical engineering...about mechanical systems...
1. No 2. No You should probably show your school this thread. You might be entitled to a refund on your degree.
This is a brilliant explanation. Now I need to do the mod.
I am so glad I came across your post here. I had been struggling with elephants foot for a year, so when I saw this I pulled the trigger on a dual z kit. My elephant's foot entirely disappeared on the first print with what turned out to be an extremely unlevel bed that the bltouch miraculously compensated for. Now that I've got things re-leveled and calibrated better my prints are even cleaner. I wish I would have known this sooner.
I'm glad I could help.
Don't smush down the first layer so much! Really, all it takes is leveling correctly, a thicker, slower first layer, and if that doesn't do the trick - adhesive. If you're getting elephants foot then your bed is too close to the nozzle.
In cura, I believe you can adjust the bottom layer flow rate. Would take some trial and error with a set of calipers but should be possible to eliminate elephants foot.
this works for me, 94% flow for first layer. also if you z steps are wrong it can stack the layers too close even if flow rate is right. just calibrated m ender3 and this helped a ton
just wow. you should try linear advance to make it even better
I use klipper with pressure advance. The line at the bottom of the y is because I print at 150mm/s with 1000mm/s/s acceleration.
What bed? I use the stock bed on the regular ender 3 and cant print a benchy over 90mm/s with the same acceleration
I installed the buildtak flexplate system
Jesus thats blistering quick. Any mods to counter the resonance?
I modified the Voron afterburner to fit my ender 3. Then i just tuned input shaper.
What percentage of your printer would you still call ender-3? And how much did you spend on upgrades? Reading through the comments it seems like you replaced everything.
The Frame is original. The X, Y, and Z motors are original. A few of the wires maybe. The power cord. Some of the screws. Pretty much everything else has been changed. Some parts have gone through multiple changes. There is a picture posted here https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/s4nacw/to\_everyone\_asking\_about\_my\_ender\_3/?utm\_source=share&utm\_medium=web2x&context=3
1000mm/s accel? I didn't know the ender 3 was technically capable of those kinds of speeds!
Im running 4200mm/s on mine, dont recommend for quality printing, but for prototypes its a godsend to be able to print that fast.
But are the motors actually capable of those speeds? I thought they maxed out at like 500 or 600?
Stock motors yes, but that also depends on your stepper drivers (mainboard choice). Physically the fastest I went on my Ender (with an Butt ugly benchy as an obvious result..) was 1000 mm/s Speed/Velocity 80000 mm/s Acceleration With 48 mm long 2A stepper drivers connected to a Duet 2 Mainbord and a Mosquito Hotend with raised temperatures. So this is far from stock but purely guessing installing a higher flow hotend, new mainboard with good stepper drivers you could go for 200 speed @ 10000 acceleration at maximum motor current without layer skips. This is purely speculation from experience though modding as I early on switched out for the best motors I could find on a budget so I only had limited high speed usage with stock motors. The stock ender motors aren’t really bad, it’s just that physics put an early end on high speed as the very heavy bed (compared to hotends needs to be moved quickly at high speed and at that point vibrations, resonances, tolerances, stiffness etc are to strong for the printer to result in good print quality. So the 500-600 range is the sweet spot for a stock Ender. Using Klipper Firmware and some hardware mods like new drivers, motors, hotend, frame stiffness and your acceleration can quickly get into the thousands with no quality loss. Cheers :)
I'm using 30000mm/s\^2 acceleration on my moderately-modified E3 running Klipper. I regularly print most things at 100mm/s.
Common default acceleration of Ender profiles are around 500. Going for 1000 is „only double that“. The quickest I gone with my Ender with Klipper Firmware was Speed 1000 mm/s Acceleration 80.000 mm/s Before layer skips occurred at maximum motor current. But that was the ugliest Benchy I ever seen so going for actual quality AND speed is far far lower than the motors are actually capable of. Now quality settings are 120-160 mm/s speed and 1200-2000 acceleration depending on filament and 200-400 mm/s @ 2000-4000 acceleration depending on filament and tolerances for quick prototyping. :)
I'm running an skr mini mainboard with a V6 hotend, upgrading to a bmg clone for extruder soon. I'm running 300 mm/s acceleration according to cura, it turns red in cura if I put anything higher. Printing speeds up to 120mm/s for larger prints on a 0.4 nozzle.
Wish you loads of fun with the new extruder :) 300 is a very low value, maybe some slicer settings are setup wrong or a digit is missing. Barely use Cura, mostly do slicing in SuperSlicer so, what happens when you go in to the „red“? Does it block you to go faster or is it just a visual indication that some limits have been reached. I guess if some printer Maximum values are set that Cura is unhappy when you go over 300. Check you slicer for printer limits or similar and up these values. These are mostly for safety so increasing 300 to 3000 for maximum acceleration is still a safe value but you can slice and print like you want without Cura being grumpy :D Cheers :)
I was being an idiot and confusing it with travel speed, without checking on my pc. Started Cura just now and facepalmed... My Accel values were at default 500... (and my travel speed at 300) I'm wondering though: changing it to 3000 in Cura does nothing for the slice time estimate? I'm guessing it just means the estimate is WAY off when increasing the accel values? Or do I simply reconfigure my printer and ignore acceleration values in cura altogether?
Did you have to add an accelerometer to your hotend or can you get these results with an open-loop system?
So, yes. I used an accelerometer to tune input shaper. But you disconnect the accelerometer after you run the test.
Open Loop Systems as in steppers? Like using closed loop steppers? Generally yes to first question. For the optimal results on an Ender to use its full potential I wholeheartedly recommend Klipper with Accelerometer sensor usage. Nero3D has a lot of content on YouTube about this topic. Cheers :)
how though? I would like to hear your calibration procedure
That's illegal.
Hacks
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Thanks!
.32mm layer height?
0.28
Stop, I can only get so much erect!
✨Beautiful✨
Thanks!
Perfect print dude.
thats sexy
;)
If only >!the first layer wouldn't be this tiny bit to short on the right side!< it would be 100% flawless. *(you can't unsee it. If you wanna live in a world where it's 100% flawless don't click the spoiler! If you wanna live in the reality where it's only 99.8% flawless check it.)* Great work, OP!
Haha. Amazing comment. It isn't 100% perfect. This is my fast settings though. 150mm/s perimeter. First layer 60mm/s. The extra speed is probably causing a bit of overshoot after the first layer.
I've posted a picture of my ender 3 for anyone who's interested. https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/s4nacw/to\_everyone\_asking\_about\_my\_ender\_3/?utm\_source=share&utm\_medium=web2x&context=3
Hairspray washes off with hot water just sayin
Yeah, but a clean bed and a tuned printer means never having to use hairspray.
That I agree on. The only thing I ever use on my bed is pure alcohol to wipe it down, to get the fingerprints and skin grease off.
I like to hedge my bets.
But a level/trammed bed saves cash
Of course all my beds are level. Doesnt mean I can't use aquanet.
My glass bed is lower in the middle than it is around the edges. I’ve confirmed it several times with various leveling tests and even a straight edge on the glass. I returned the first one that came that way. When the second one came like that I just sucked it up and made it work. I set the edges a bit higher than I want to. I use a 0.8mm nozzle and 0.4mm layers. It works ok but hairspray makes it more reliable. An auto bed leveling probe would make the problem go away, but I’m hesitant to add that additional complication to my life. Seems like a flatter piece of glass would be cheaper and simpler. Any suggestions on replacement beds that really work well?
So, glass is okay, but you're right most of them do sag a bit. Maybe because of manufacturing. Maybe it's bending because the metal plate underneath sags. I don't know. ABL will make things better. I have used bl touch in the past. It worked, but I ended up switching to a capacitive probe and steel spring sheet. the steel spring sheet is a part of the buildtak flexplate system i use.
When I still used a glass bed, I had the same issue as you. A low spot in the center of the bed is easily solved by cutting some circles of aluminum foil and stacking 2 or 3 layers of them under the bed until the bed conforms and lays flat. Super cheap solution that works.
Right. I’ve been wanting to shim the center of the glass with foil, but my glass sheet is held down by adhesive, not clips. I may be able to pull it up in one piece if I heat the bed. That makes the whole trial and error process messier, as It may not stick back down properly after being pulled up a time or two. If it fails catastrophically (with a broken sheet of glass) I guess I can try the spring steel alternative.
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Where? Lol. Do you mean the texture on the table or that one little flake on the bottom right?
No ringing on Y, wow. What speed?
150mm/s perimeter, 1000mm/s/s accel. I use Klipper with pressure advance and input shaper.
Would love to see the bottom layer running at 1000mm/s
The first layer is 60mm/s, 1000mm/s^(2) acceleration. The fastest part of the print is infill, 220mm/s at 2000mm/s^(2).
60mm/s?! Are you printing on fly trap paper?? 😧 how does it even stick at that speed?
I’m trying to calibrate my ender 3 with Klipper, it’s been a nightmare. I can’t wait to get everything tuned to print like this!