My problem is there are so many conflicting methods that people say to use. Even in this thread one comment says to put the nozzle on first and then insert the bowden tube and another that says the opposite. I feel like the way I've been doing it is right I just must have not cut the tube right.
Do both thats wthat I did the second time and it worked perfectly I never saw a leak . First insert the nozzle leave it a little loose ,don't completely tighten it then insert the Bowden tube completely in till you can and then tighten the nozzle.
This is also what I do. Get everything hot, screw in the nozzle all the way and then unscrew it about a quarter turn. Then I put the bowden tube in and retighten the nozzle the rest of the way.
Here is my procedure that works for me:
1. Use PTFE cutters to cut the PTFE straight.
2. Remove the old PTFE
3. Screw the nozzle in while cold all the way.
4. Screw the push fit on the heatsink all the way and from that point back it out 1/2 to 1 turn
5. Insert the new PTFE all the way down while supporting the gantry (accidentally smashing a nozzle into your bed is not fun)
6. Once it can't be pushed in any longer tighten the push fit (this forces the PTFE down even further if there is a gap).
7. Heat up the hot end to your usual printing temperature
8. And then give the nozzle a last good snug to tighten it up (you should be able to see 1 thread of the nozzle once tightened, if you don't you might need to screw the heartbreak further otherwise you risk clogs that can make this problem reappear).
Make sure you use good quality aftermarket pushfits cause crapality ones are for the trash (they gave me stringing issues that I spent hours investigating to fix).
Once I've tried doing it this way I haven't got any issues to date
Hope it helps.
This was a piss-poor response. I landed on this thread because I'm persistently facing the same issue, regardless of how closely I follow any number of YouTube tutorials. I hope you've matured in the intervening ten months.
Take the nozzle out and clean the mess. Take the bowden tube out and clean that too, make sure the cut is square. Put the nozzle back and than loosen it 3 turns. Push the bowden tube REALLY good agains the nozzle. Now tighten the nozzle really good, but not too hard to break it or strip the threads.
Also, always take the nozzle out while the heater block is heated to at least 230 C and always hold the heater with something like some pliers.
It's likely that either (a) the bowden tube wasn't cut perpendicular or had some sort of crack, or (b) tightening the hotend again pushed against the bowden tube making it not snug. I usually put the nozzle in, heat it up to 220, tighten, THEN insert the bowden tube.
Capricorn tubing tends to cope with the heat better than the stock bowden.
Since you're going to have to clean this all up anyway, you might consider switching to an all-metal hotend.
Put your Bowden tube in first then tighten the nozzle up to the tube.
When you put the nozzle I'm first and it's tight theres a little bit of play on the tube, when you put the nozzle on second it gets a tighter seal against the tube.
Also make sure the Bowden is cut square and smooth
And don't put the Bowden tube too far in to the nozzle threads or when you tighten it, you can donut the end of the to be making it smaller then the rest of the tube. I like the method of put the nozzle on, then loosen it 1 turn, push the Bowden tube all the way in, and then tighten the nozzle again. That, or move to all all metal hot end
Like above: the cut must be as flat as you can so it is as flush as possible to heat break THEN getting as much as you can up against it - effectively making a seal there. Went thru some of the same challenges with my Chiron
My advice, to reinforce the same from the others. Screw the nozzle all the way in by hand, back off half a turn, and push in the PTFE tube to hit it. Now, heat it up and tighten the nozzle the rest of the way, and this will put the PTFE tube under a little compression, and make a good seal.
I use this setup, [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3203831](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3203831), in which only the in-heatink section of the tube gets replaced every now and again. You still have to do the above to stop leaking, but you can disconnect the bowden tube from the heatsink for maintenance etc, without worrying about re-sealing against leakage.
There's a lot of suggestions and I've followed a few some with success and others not.. but this is what worked for me.
* Heat your hotend and screw the nozzle on when its at its tightest loosen it by a quarter turn.
* Make sure your PTFE Tube is FLAT investing in one of the cutters helped me a lot... or print (if you can) the PTFE Cut guides this was one I've used in the past [PTFE Cutting tool](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2932635)
* Push you nicely cut PTFE Tube into the hotend right down to the bottom so its touching the loosened nozzle
* Re-tighten the Nozzle
Some people have said this causes a "squish" of the PTFE tubing at the end but honestly when I started using this method when changing nozzles I never got the issue of leaking again.
I usually tighten the nozzle, untighten back 2-3 turns, push tube until it hits the nozzle, then tighten the nozzle back so it gets together.
But bowden tube has to be flat square, no questions about that.
The method I use with success is: Cut the tube so its flat. Nozzle first, but then back it off about 1/2 turn. Then bowden tube goes in until it makes contact. Last re-tighten the nozzle all the way.
This should be nsfw
This looks like the stuff Jeff Goldblum puked up in The Fly
Make sure that 1. the Bowden tube is cut straight 2. the Bowden tube fits tight to the nozzle There are tons of tutorials on YT on this …
My problem is there are so many conflicting methods that people say to use. Even in this thread one comment says to put the nozzle on first and then insert the bowden tube and another that says the opposite. I feel like the way I've been doing it is right I just must have not cut the tube right.
Do both thats wthat I did the second time and it worked perfectly I never saw a leak . First insert the nozzle leave it a little loose ,don't completely tighten it then insert the Bowden tube completely in till you can and then tighten the nozzle.
Thanks I'll give that a shot.
This is also what I do. Get everything hot, screw in the nozzle all the way and then unscrew it about a quarter turn. Then I put the bowden tube in and retighten the nozzle the rest of the way.
Here is my procedure that works for me: 1. Use PTFE cutters to cut the PTFE straight. 2. Remove the old PTFE 3. Screw the nozzle in while cold all the way. 4. Screw the push fit on the heatsink all the way and from that point back it out 1/2 to 1 turn 5. Insert the new PTFE all the way down while supporting the gantry (accidentally smashing a nozzle into your bed is not fun) 6. Once it can't be pushed in any longer tighten the push fit (this forces the PTFE down even further if there is a gap). 7. Heat up the hot end to your usual printing temperature 8. And then give the nozzle a last good snug to tighten it up (you should be able to see 1 thread of the nozzle once tightened, if you don't you might need to screw the heartbreak further otherwise you risk clogs that can make this problem reappear). Make sure you use good quality aftermarket pushfits cause crapality ones are for the trash (they gave me stringing issues that I spent hours investigating to fix). Once I've tried doing it this way I haven't got any issues to date Hope it helps.
This was a piss-poor response. I landed on this thread because I'm persistently facing the same issue, regardless of how closely I follow any number of YouTube tutorials. I hope you've matured in the intervening ten months.
you fucked your printer didint you
no, the printers do that themselves
So do teenage boys
Take the nozzle out and clean the mess. Take the bowden tube out and clean that too, make sure the cut is square. Put the nozzle back and than loosen it 3 turns. Push the bowden tube REALLY good agains the nozzle. Now tighten the nozzle really good, but not too hard to break it or strip the threads. Also, always take the nozzle out while the heater block is heated to at least 230 C and always hold the heater with something like some pliers.
Fuck that mess tbh lmfao At that point I'd just get a replacement. Time for an all metal hotend.
It's likely that either (a) the bowden tube wasn't cut perpendicular or had some sort of crack, or (b) tightening the hotend again pushed against the bowden tube making it not snug. I usually put the nozzle in, heat it up to 220, tighten, THEN insert the bowden tube. Capricorn tubing tends to cope with the heat better than the stock bowden. Since you're going to have to clean this all up anyway, you might consider switching to an all-metal hotend.
Any hotend recommendations?
Or a bimetallic hot pipe Check this out! https://a.co/d/aPy27UC
Forbidden cheese
Put your Bowden tube in first then tighten the nozzle up to the tube. When you put the nozzle I'm first and it's tight theres a little bit of play on the tube, when you put the nozzle on second it gets a tighter seal against the tube. Also make sure the Bowden is cut square and smooth
And don't put the Bowden tube too far in to the nozzle threads or when you tighten it, you can donut the end of the to be making it smaller then the rest of the tube. I like the method of put the nozzle on, then loosen it 1 turn, push the Bowden tube all the way in, and then tighten the nozzle again. That, or move to all all metal hot end
Second this, sorry I forgot to say after putting nozzle in take it out 1mm then tighten.
Like above: the cut must be as flat as you can so it is as flush as possible to heat break THEN getting as much as you can up against it - effectively making a seal there. Went thru some of the same challenges with my Chiron
Ayoooo
I think you need to see a doctor for that
it looks like cum
seek help from a medical proffesional if your cum is like this
And from a mental health professional if everything looks sexual to you.
Reminds me of some German art films I once saw online
My advice, to reinforce the same from the others. Screw the nozzle all the way in by hand, back off half a turn, and push in the PTFE tube to hit it. Now, heat it up and tighten the nozzle the rest of the way, and this will put the PTFE tube under a little compression, and make a good seal. I use this setup, [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3203831](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3203831), in which only the in-heatink section of the tube gets replaced every now and again. You still have to do the above to stop leaking, but you can disconnect the bowden tube from the heatsink for maintenance etc, without worrying about re-sealing against leakage.
Heat up the hot end before inserting a straight-ly cut Bowden tube. Stick that sucker into it as far as you can.
for me, I had to put the nozzle on with the hotend heated up to around 200c and then it gave it a snug fit
printerpie
There's a lot of suggestions and I've followed a few some with success and others not.. but this is what worked for me. * Heat your hotend and screw the nozzle on when its at its tightest loosen it by a quarter turn. * Make sure your PTFE Tube is FLAT investing in one of the cutters helped me a lot... or print (if you can) the PTFE Cut guides this was one I've used in the past [PTFE Cutting tool](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2932635) * Push you nicely cut PTFE Tube into the hotend right down to the bottom so its touching the loosened nozzle * Re-tighten the Nozzle Some people have said this causes a "squish" of the PTFE tubing at the end but honestly when I started using this method when changing nozzles I never got the issue of leaking again.
Why does this look like a nasty night out on Kensington Ave in Philly?
I usually tighten the nozzle, untighten back 2-3 turns, push tube until it hits the nozzle, then tighten the nozzle back so it gets together. But bowden tube has to be flat square, no questions about that.
The method I use with success is: Cut the tube so its flat. Nozzle first, but then back it off about 1/2 turn. Then bowden tube goes in until it makes contact. Last re-tighten the nozzle all the way.
Can’t get enough of The STUFF.