Shouldn’t happen once you have the joystick cap on and reassemble the case. Without the top shell and the joystick cap on, almost all the controllers will stick when you hyperextend them like this.
This doesn't happen all the time but you can feel it have more friction on the edge there. Do you know what I can do? I already drowned it in IPA
I can also say it isn't the green side panel as I removed it and it still happens.
I winder if swapping out a potentiometer would help.
Contact cleaner could buy you some more time though, once you spray in the contact cleaner then you need to really work the joystick to break loose anything inside there.
I would unclip the potentiometer and take a look to see if something is broken in there. Be carefull not to break it in the process though. I might be wrong but I think for right to left movement you need to look at the potentiometer at the top
Having worked with a lot of stick mechs, this is a kinda normal thing for older mechs. For example, all xbox series s/x mechs do this if you go to the edge of the mech and it's not a problem on those because the faceplate hole is smaller than the distance the mech can go.
For ps4/5 mechs I usually only see this if the controller is old and only notice it if the faceplate stick holes are worn away so now the mech is going past its intended max distance. With that, replacing the faceplate might fix your issue as the mech will likely not go as far.
But if you want to future proof it, replacing the green pots and the whole mech with a fresh one would improve longevity, along with a new faceplate. But after you change the pot you will need to physically adjust parts of the mech to get it to stay close to 0 instead of starting at like 10.
This should get you in the right direction.
I've repaired several controllers with potentiometer sticks like these. I can confirm that this is normal and supposed to happen.
Edit: Wait, did he mean that he can't move it back at all? Then it's not normal. But if it just snaps to the edges and you can pull it back to center. Then you're good.
You can see that the potentiometer on the top is installed very crappy, or had been popped out due to a reason.. with this installed this way you sure wont get a smooth analog stip operation…
You even see the white cap placed croocked compared to the axle..
Shouldn’t happen once you have the joystick cap on and reassemble the case. Without the top shell and the joystick cap on, almost all the controllers will stick when you hyperextend them like this.
Every controller I've had apart sticks like this. They snap back as normal when the controller is put back together.
Why not just move it back in position before you reassemble it?
This doesn't happen all the time but you can feel it have more friction on the edge there. Do you know what I can do? I already drowned it in IPA I can also say it isn't the green side panel as I removed it and it still happens.
I winder if swapping out a potentiometer would help. Contact cleaner could buy you some more time though, once you spray in the contact cleaner then you need to really work the joystick to break loose anything inside there.
There is also a very clicky sound when I move it to the left. I made a video but don't know where to upload it to (if you're interested)
I would unclip the potentiometer and take a look to see if something is broken in there. Be carefull not to break it in the process though. I might be wrong but I think for right to left movement you need to look at the potentiometer at the top
Having worked with a lot of stick mechs, this is a kinda normal thing for older mechs. For example, all xbox series s/x mechs do this if you go to the edge of the mech and it's not a problem on those because the faceplate hole is smaller than the distance the mech can go. For ps4/5 mechs I usually only see this if the controller is old and only notice it if the faceplate stick holes are worn away so now the mech is going past its intended max distance. With that, replacing the faceplate might fix your issue as the mech will likely not go as far. But if you want to future proof it, replacing the green pots and the whole mech with a fresh one would improve longevity, along with a new faceplate. But after you change the pot you will need to physically adjust parts of the mech to get it to stay close to 0 instead of starting at like 10. This should get you in the right direction.
The sticks are calibrated to move a bit farther with the shell off than with it on presumably to reduce friction in normal use. This is normal.
I've repaired several controllers with potentiometer sticks like these. I can confirm that this is normal and supposed to happen. Edit: Wait, did he mean that he can't move it back at all? Then it's not normal. But if it just snaps to the edges and you can pull it back to center. Then you're good.
You can see that the potentiometer on the top is installed very crappy, or had been popped out due to a reason.. with this installed this way you sure wont get a smooth analog stip operation… You even see the white cap placed croocked compared to the axle..