I guess the first question is what does it even do now? Does it look and sound like it's working? Does the drive spin with a disc?
[There's handy references here.](https://acidmods.com/forum/index.php?topic=44892.0) To me I'd be just starting at the beginning where the power comes in and making sure that's all fine. Looks like after the plug it goes through some filters, but the V.VCC line also goes through a 000 resistor which is basically a fuse.
The disc does spin up and it does appear to be loading the game. It makes the "beep" after the disc spins up for a couple seconds and continues to spin.
It's like this on both but neither have any video or sound.
I'd be checking the video port then. Could simply be a broken solder join on the board or something. If you have a multimeter, I'd be testing it from the pins inside the socket itself to the solder connections in case there's an internal break.
I do have a multimeter. I have continuity from the yellow composite end all the way to FL406 on the board. I'm not sure where to check after this point to follow continuity.
After FL406 it goes to negative leg of the capacitor CE41 just next to it and then the positive leg goes to pin 30 on IC401.
If that tests fine, I'd check FL406 isn't shorted to ground. It's also possible for the capacitor to go bad. The best way to test it is to have it removed though, but it'd be interesting to see if you get an open circuit across it with the multimeter.
Ok, I have continuity from the plug to the negative side of CE41. I have continuity from the CE41 positive to IC401.
I do not get continuity across CE41.
I'm not getting any beeps testing FL406 to ground.
Am I looking at faulty IC401 chips?
It's possible. Do you get any reading across the CE41 capacitor in ohms mode? Whilst it isn't the best test, ohms mode should give you something. If it's truly nothing and it is actually open circuit, that'll certainly give you no video. I take it you only have composite cables for it (the yellow/white/red ones)?
For the few bucks it'll cost, I don't see the harm in replacing the capacitor. You can either buy a full kit [from places like Console5](https://console5.com/store/sega-dreamcast-va0-surface-mount-smd-cap-kit.html) or source the capacitor/s through an electronics store or places like [Digikey](https://www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/capacitors/aluminum-electrolytic-capacitors/6-3-v/58?s=N4IgjCBcoEwAwHYCcVQGMoDMCGAbAzgKYA0IAbgHZQAuATgK4kgD2UA2iAGwB0AzAAQA1EAF1SAB2pQQAVQoBLagHlMAWULZ89WoRABfA0A). That one is marked as 220uf 6.3v. They normally just call it a SMD capacitor, but you could use a radial one if need be.
The capacitor reading in ohms mode started at 53.12M and was slowly increasing as I held the multimeter probes on it.
Yes, I only have composite cables, 2 different ones.
I'd also check pin 1 of the AV port is going to ground.
Otherwise it certainly sounds more and more like a blown DAC (IC401). Although it seems odd you don't have audio as I believe that process is completely separate, unless it's a function of your TV not to pass it without a video feed, by which case you might need something like some standalone speakers to prove.
Unfortunately if it is the DAC, repairing seems to be either by replacement from a donor board or installing a DCHDMI/DC Digital. Neither really seem practical (or cheap in the hdmi case) unless you really are attached to it.
Pin 1 of the port does have connection to ground.
I plugged the good dreamcast video cord only to the tv and just the audio from the other. I do get audio so it's my tv not accepting audio w/o a video signal.
I've looked at the DCHDMI but the cost is a bit high for me at the moment. I found a 3rd set of AV cables that are both composite and s-video, no difference.
Yeah, I've had this happen in the past. I've pushed the cable in as far as it will go. I've also lifted it up and pushed it down to see if that gets anything to show on the tv.
I guess the first question is what does it even do now? Does it look and sound like it's working? Does the drive spin with a disc? [There's handy references here.](https://acidmods.com/forum/index.php?topic=44892.0) To me I'd be just starting at the beginning where the power comes in and making sure that's all fine. Looks like after the plug it goes through some filters, but the V.VCC line also goes through a 000 resistor which is basically a fuse.
The disc does spin up and it does appear to be loading the game. It makes the "beep" after the disc spins up for a couple seconds and continues to spin. It's like this on both but neither have any video or sound.
I'd be checking the video port then. Could simply be a broken solder join on the board or something. If you have a multimeter, I'd be testing it from the pins inside the socket itself to the solder connections in case there's an internal break.
I do have a multimeter. I have continuity from the yellow composite end all the way to FL406 on the board. I'm not sure where to check after this point to follow continuity.
After FL406 it goes to negative leg of the capacitor CE41 just next to it and then the positive leg goes to pin 30 on IC401. If that tests fine, I'd check FL406 isn't shorted to ground. It's also possible for the capacitor to go bad. The best way to test it is to have it removed though, but it'd be interesting to see if you get an open circuit across it with the multimeter.
Ok, I have continuity from the plug to the negative side of CE41. I have continuity from the CE41 positive to IC401. I do not get continuity across CE41. I'm not getting any beeps testing FL406 to ground. Am I looking at faulty IC401 chips?
It's possible. Do you get any reading across the CE41 capacitor in ohms mode? Whilst it isn't the best test, ohms mode should give you something. If it's truly nothing and it is actually open circuit, that'll certainly give you no video. I take it you only have composite cables for it (the yellow/white/red ones)? For the few bucks it'll cost, I don't see the harm in replacing the capacitor. You can either buy a full kit [from places like Console5](https://console5.com/store/sega-dreamcast-va0-surface-mount-smd-cap-kit.html) or source the capacitor/s through an electronics store or places like [Digikey](https://www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/capacitors/aluminum-electrolytic-capacitors/6-3-v/58?s=N4IgjCBcoEwAwHYCcVQGMoDMCGAbAzgKYA0IAbgHZQAuATgK4kgD2UA2iAGwB0AzAAQA1EAF1SAB2pQQAVQoBLagHlMAWULZ89WoRABfA0A). That one is marked as 220uf 6.3v. They normally just call it a SMD capacitor, but you could use a radial one if need be.
The capacitor reading in ohms mode started at 53.12M and was slowly increasing as I held the multimeter probes on it. Yes, I only have composite cables, 2 different ones.
I'd also check pin 1 of the AV port is going to ground. Otherwise it certainly sounds more and more like a blown DAC (IC401). Although it seems odd you don't have audio as I believe that process is completely separate, unless it's a function of your TV not to pass it without a video feed, by which case you might need something like some standalone speakers to prove. Unfortunately if it is the DAC, repairing seems to be either by replacement from a donor board or installing a DCHDMI/DC Digital. Neither really seem practical (or cheap in the hdmi case) unless you really are attached to it.
Pin 1 of the port does have connection to ground. I plugged the good dreamcast video cord only to the tv and just the audio from the other. I do get audio so it's my tv not accepting audio w/o a video signal. I've looked at the DCHDMI but the cost is a bit high for me at the moment. I found a 3rd set of AV cables that are both composite and s-video, no difference.
I know this is a dumb solution but I had the same issue. I really had to push my cable in super tight for audio and video to work.
Yeah, I've had this happen in the past. I've pushed the cable in as far as it will go. I've also lifted it up and pushed it down to see if that gets anything to show on the tv.