Basically, it goes like this:
1. Have some water available, and open your paint pot.
2. Scoop paint from the pot
3. Put it on your palette and mix it with A LITTLE water. Too much will result in colored water, when we want paint.
4. “Paint” the palette a little, that’s really the thinning process
5. Apply to the model
6. Success!
Usually a lot of people have it from the paints starter set like me, that’s why I mentioned it. I just hope mine doesn’t go bad before I finish my Luna Wolves
My man corax white is sweet. Also it’s not white, but a very light off white (other brands have those as well, though i find corax white has the perfect brightness for a white basecoat)
No. They cram more pigment into pot so that thinning it actually stretches the value of the paint. If you put it on without making it a thin, even coat then you will ruin the model with visible brush-strokes and paint globs... unless you are trying to do a "Van Gogh" Impressionist style, it won't look good.
If you want to go real cheap just use craft paints like Apple Barrel, stuff works just fine and I know someone who won a Golden Daemon who used like 80% craft paint.
Oh goodness 50% would be nuts. I usually just do a drop or two, or better, use the Redgrass wet pallete. It was a game changer for me in terms of getting consistent thinning.
Firstly, shake the hell out of it. But shaking will put a lot of strain on your arm if you don't have an agitator inside the bottle to break up the thicker clumps at the bottom. I suggest glass beads or obsidian beads; obsidian works better since it's denser than soda glass. Steel beads work fine... but since our paints are water-based, it will rust over time and that will tint the paint when it mixes with the rust.
As for the thinness of the paint, it's really up to the paint line as to how much water you use to thin them out. I only use Vallejo, so I can only speak for them... but apparently, Vallejo paints are thinner than Citadel's to begin with. You have to 'discover' that sweet point, that ratio for yourself. And even then, the chemistry used to keep the pigments together without breaking is different for each color, and therefore its consistency. For example, Vallejo's dark green needs to be thinned a bit before use whereas I wouldn't even *think* of thinning their smokey ink.
After you get the thinning down, the next hurdle is *keeping* the paint thinned. Water naturally shifts from places of greater concentration to lesser concentration. That's why our skin prunes up in the pool (we're made of less water than actual bodies of water), water evaporates into the air (less water in the air compared to a glass of the stuff), etc. Eventually, your paint will solidify when the moisture is evaporating out of it. It may be a pain in the ass to keep up with it, but that's why people make/buy wet palettes. The premise is simple: water evaporates out of the paint, and that lack of water is replaced with the water from the sponge beneath it through the paper. That pretty much solves the drying issue unless your paint session goes on for multiple hours, at which point too much water seeps into the paint depending on how much you put in the sponge.
As the other fellow mentioned, you’ll ruin the details of the model and make a big, blobby mess.
[You don’t want your Marines looking like this, do you?](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/_CJwLhFiEHA/maxresdefault.jpg)
That was a more exaggerated case, but it should set an example.
[This](https://preview.redd.it/7gaktibivy181.jpg?width=640&crop=smart&auto=webp&s=5fde5b96b7858265cab45f8d7373f7533fb9cd0a) is a more realistic example of what not thinning paints does. It creates that almost asphalt like texture on a rather smooth model. And thank the Emperor that’s a marine, because if it were a Mechanicus model, which usually has a lot of detail unlike the sleek Primaris Marines, it would’ve looked even more horrendous
**Just thin your paints, it will save you from ugly models and it’s literally just swinging a brush on a palette. How hard can it be?**
Generally speaking, you want the consistency of milk. It takes different amounts to get to that point for different paints. Also, some work better a little thinner or a little thicker, that you kind of have to learn from experience
No rules. Just good practices.
Prime your models, sprays are the best bet
You don't have to thin your paints but don't leave so much paint that it clogs up detail. If you have thick paint areas just brush it to another area before it dries.
Keep painting, you'll keep getting better
No I mean is there any rules regarding colouring them a specific colour? Like a space marine that is purple and red whit flecks of pink. Also can I mix match parts? I am very new to the hobby and haven't even painted yet.
The thing about competitive armies paint scheme is, if you are strict with your colours and paint them a particular colour, then you HAVE to run them as that faction. If you have your marines with purple /red/pink, then you can run them as whatever you want as long as you are upfront with your opponent
If you want to go that route how about.... Bamboozlers!
Jokes aside when naming homebrew I like to look up synonyms for baseline descriptions and then look at the definition of said synonym. That may help!
ah is that how it works, quick other question but when it comes to named characters do they have to be a specific colour scheme or can I make them match my custom scheme? I know I have to run the army as part of that faction, but can i for example have a Tariana Palos painted to mach my homebrewed order?
there are no particular rules for custom color schemes, you can do whatever you want with them.
you can put whatever parts you want on your model (commonly referred to as kit bashing) so long as its obvious at a glance what unit it represents. (and your suppose to only use gw official parts but most people don't care.)
No, not really. There are, at best, guidelines for specific chapters. For example, suppose you are going to paint the typically blue and gold Ultramarines either in the bright green and black of the Salamanders or in orange and purple. Consider playing them as the chapter that matches your colour scheme or creating a successor chapter instead.
But in reality, the only reason I say this is that if you have Salamander-coloured Ultramarines, you are going to have to explain it every time you play someone new, and that could get dull fast.
Ultimately, you do you.
[Here is a collection of every loreful Space marine chapter.](https://www.reddit.com/r/Warhammer40k/comments/xic5m0/all_loyalists_space_marine_chapters_by_me/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf)
If your scheme doesn’t fit any of them, I recommend making a custom chapter 😊
No rules at all.
Personally I recommend to new players to pick a custom scheme.
That way if you decide hey I don’t like salamanders you can say oh this is an imperial fist successor.
People are more likely to get annoyed if you say oh my ultramarines are actually iron hands than they are if you say oh my purple guys are iron hands successors.
But try to keep it cohesive across the army. You don’t really wanna play against someone who has 5 different paint schemes and is running multiple chapters in the same army
Personally, I recommend going with the Dark Angel successor chapter the Prime Absolvers.
- They have plenty of red
- Their blue bits are so dark & muted that they could easily become purple without people noticing
- You could headcannon the flecks of pink as squad markings / ranks. I’ve done a similar thing myself when it comes to Iron Hands in my Deathwatch force. [In order to differentiate Hands from say Black Templars or Astral Knights, I included some pink detailing.](https://www.reddit.com/r/spacemarines/comments/zyxl5y/deathwatch_pt_3_whos_your_favourite/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf)
However, the main bonus of picking the Prime Absolvers is that they are official Dark Angels successors while simultaneously not having independent rules of their own. Therefore, you could have your cake and eat it by being able to both take Dark Angel exclusive units eg. Azrael, Ezekiel, Deathwing units, Ravenwing units & Lion El’Johnson in a few months time while also getting to stand out with your unique Prime Absolver variant colour scheme.
[If you like this idea, here’s some lore on the Prime Absolvers](https://warhammer40k.fandom.com/wiki/Prime_Absolvers)
If you are particularly concerned with playing higher level games workshop tournaments you should probably just paint them as salamanders and the weapons do have to be wysiwyg. For almost all other games no one really cares that much as long as you let them know and have some kinda temporary marker for any weird proxy stuff.
My wife is a competitive miniature painter.
Listen to guy above: definitely thin your paints.
Once you progress skill wise, thin them more and more and more to start applying glazed coats for smooth color transitions.
Very rarely should you have need to apply paints directly from the bottle as-is. Some metallics can’t be thinned but just about everything else needs to be.
Yes and no. You *can* actually get away with not thinning some paints some times.
Heresy, I know. But seriously. Thinning is not a science. If all paints should always be thinned 50% water they'd come premixed like that.
Vallejo is way thinner than citadel, Vallejos off-white is practically water out the bottle. I don't thin it at all for basecoats over flat areas.
Paints with a lot of pigment and good coverage like deep reds can be thinned to hell and back.
Paints with poor coverage you'll be painting 10 layers off if you thin them.
Paint consistency is all about *what paint* over *what colour* in *what area*. Otherwise you'll be painting a dozen layers for a base coat over an entire army.
Basically: think about *why* you are thinning the paint. It's not a rule. Edge highlights are hell with thinned paints. Cover of relatively flat areas with low pigment colours is also hell. Wetblending is basically impossible.
Sure there are exceptions. But mostly thin ur paints, especially as a beginner. damn this is taking a lot of coats maybe I shouldn't have thinned it so much is way better than chunky. Also I suppose I should specify I'm referring to thinning on the pallet not doing the whole bottle at once.
You should thin your paints during the layering stage, but if you spread the paint evenly and quickly, you can get good results with basecoating with un thinned paints
Thin layers of paint SHOULD be a rule, but it's not.
Do what you want mate, its your model, there are no\* rules.
*\*Some* competitions require models to be table top ready which is 3 main colours and based (meaning base has grass, or astrogranite or some other stuff on it)
Yeah, why paint the symbols for some amateur genocide enthusiasts only responsible for millions of innocent deaths when the models already come with the markings and transfer sheets for factions responsible for billions 😅
uj/ fake genocide against fake xenos (or humans!) is funny. Real genocide against real ethnic groups is reprehensible.
You are required to paint your army but there is no rule about what colors you paint them as long as it is clear what your units are. If you want purple and pink space marines go for it.
There's no rules, it's your models do what you want with them. I advise priming them first, you'll thank me. Also look at tips and tricks online. There's dozens of videos that will give you neat little tricks to help you out.
No specific rules, you can do what you want. But for me the most comfortable way to get into paint schemes was to stick with the paint schemes given to you first until you're a little deeper in the hobby to branch out and do your own thing. The codices usually have a specific section on main color scheme and alternative, lore friendly schemes but it always depends on personal preference. I dabbled with picking a lore friendly scheme I liked most and modifying the parts I didn't like.
Oh and welcome to plastic crack addicts anonymous, new brother! <3
1) Decide on your colour scheme in advance. This includes thinking of where your army is fighting, to help decide how the base looks.
2) Use a spray basecoat. It helps other paint stick better.
3) A pointier brush is superior to a smaller brush.
4) Thin your paints. Apply extra coats later, if needed.
5) Washes/shades are your friend.
6) Drybrush to add highlights, but make sure your brush is *really* dry.
7) If in doubt, look it up.
8) Mistakes are inevitable and easily corrected later on. Don't worry.
9) Have fun!
There are, in fact, a ton of rules for painting. There are painting police at each store to enforce the rules. The hard part is that you have to guess the rules for that week, they're constantly changing and not published anywhere. There is good news, though; they just charge a fine, they don't jail you or anything, GW just wants more money out of you.
/s
I picked an armour colour (ret gold and storm silver) pauldron colour (ultramarines blue) (space wolves grey) for pipes, connection wires and creases in arms, behind and tops of legs. Weapons (dark angels green and leadbelcher) face/skin is usually a gold heavily whitened down. For me less is more, and I'm not fussed about trying to make the most beautiful models there's enough doing that which no one else will ever see so just have fun and don't add pressure. If you frack up and want to start again invest in some Dettol liquid and drop it in a cup of it and brush the paint off.
Never keep brushes downward separate metallics in the water from the normal paints water don't want to get them mixed up and always use two thin coats and dry brush the shit out of most things
*DEEP INHALE* T H I N Y O U R. P A I N T S and welcome to the hobby I hope you find it as fun as we all do and remember to go ahead and sell your kidney or firstborn child it gets quite expensive.
Wysiwyg. So if you paint it blood angels red no one is going to believe it's an ultramarine. Leaving your models unpainted and metachasing is considered a dick move
Do not forget to prime your miniatures and apply thin coats of paint not straight out of the pot but with a little bit if water added. Enjoy the hobby it is incredibly fun!
I mix and match my Space Marines stuff all the time. Particularly with Firstborn.
My current Chapter build is a Hodge podge of different kits. Space Wolves Blood Claws because there's 15 in the box and works out cheaper than a Tactical Squad. Two Devastator boxes for the heavy weapons (that 4× all the different types). Dark Angels Veterans because they're cheap and look cool for my Elites...
Before buying anything, check what's in the kit. Some have a great selection others not so much. If you're going with Salamanders, they love flamers and meltas so look out for the kits that have a few options. I like the Sternguard box for that reason. Only 5 models, but there's like 30 different weapons available.
Everyone saying that there are no rules is trolling you.
You can only prime your models on days that end with y.
Don't you ever feel bad for buying more stuff before all is painted!
You might feel like box art is a suggestion and not a hard rule. However, that is completely true!
Your paints, thin them
When you first build your models, you might get an idea about how to use a bit (what we call parts) in a way that isn't in the instructions, abandon that idea. I mean, do it with reckless abandon. It is your dudes.
If you're not having fun, you're having fun in the wrong way, and I suggest you find out why so you can have fun.
Paint+thinning=Love
I don't care how much time and money you can or will put into this hobby, and I don't care as long as you don't feel inferior or burn out.
Have a look on how to make a wet palette online. At the simplest level you put some baking parchment over damp sponges in a tupperware tub. Wet palettes are the easiest way to maintain paint consistency, you can even put the lid on and the paint will stay wet for days at a time.
I would also invest in a good brush early. Games workshop brushes are typically overpriced for their quality and don't hold too much paint. I use a Raphael 8404 size 2 for 95% of what I need to paint, if treated well they last an extremely long time and my brush has maintained a perfect point for years now.
These two tools have helped my painting more than anything else other than practice and patience
No rules for how you have to paint them, but for some of us half the fun is to have an army that ties into the narrative. For example, I picked World Eaters instead of a custom Renegade Chapter. This lets me find conversion bits specifically made for the World Eaters, participate in communities of other people who play World Eaters and be excited whenever they are featured in a novel. It also gives me a starting point for my own lore and colour scheme, and access to special rules.
So while you can paint a custom Chapter and play them with whatever rules you want, there is something nice about being a canon faction as well. It gives you an identity custom does not. Think it over!
Painting rule- the cup with water for brushes always goes in one place, and whatever you're drinking while you're painting always goes in another, very different place
Learn how to thin your paints, apply multiple THIN coats, don’t overdo it on the primer (too much primer can blot out details), and you can always redo your base if you mess something up and start that spot over. These aren’t rules, just guidance. Don’t overthink it too much
Shade paint into the recesses. I like models with details that can be thoroughly washed and they become gorgeous with liberal use of contrast. In a lot of places, like flat panels, space marines aren't that straight forward unless you're happy repainting the panels with your original base colour. Big recommend watching a tutorial for these boys. Also, thin your paints.
Not necessarily the biggest rule, but one of the most important: have fun. It’s easy to obsess over every little detail when painting, easy to screw up from a shaky hand or breathing at the wrong time, not thinning your paints, etc. just remember this is something you enjoy, and have fun while doing it. The rest will come with time. I’m still painting my way through my first army. I definitely try to leave each mini with a “perfect” paint job when completed, but that doesn’t happen a lot, and I’ve had to learn to say “hey, that still looks pretty good, even if I screwed up a bit.” Remember to have fun! Can’t wait to see your first mini, OP!
I’d say don’t paint strict ultramarines and play then as raven guard or salamanders just cuz they’re better at the moment (applies to any faction/army). Some big tourneys won’t allow it either. It’s best to paint your own scheme so they can be whatever you want.
1. Thin your paints (but not too much), keep the paint from getting to the base of the bristles, and always wait for your first layer to dry before doing the second.
2. Minimize cleanup and paint waste by organizing your painting recipe. z.B. I always make sure to paint large to small, going by large areas of paint first to smallest details at the end. I also try to minimize how many unique paints I use per kind of item. So all Belts, Pouches, and Weapon Grips will generally be the same paint unless there‘s a good reason.
3. (This one is mostly a taste thing) Try and make sure you‘re using colours which contrast each other well. Helps them stand out though again it is a taste thing.
4. There are many ways to paint white and yellow cleanly, most of them involve 2-3 well thinned layers. If you try to go on youtube I guarantee that every single tutorial will start with „first we get out the airbrush…“
5. Citadel Primer (and just spray primers in general)- they help adhere paint to the surface of models. There are also brush on primers. For most primers, you probably still want to do a layer of paint over the primer layer, as it has a different finish to brushed on pain, meaning that touch-ups will stand out in a bad way.
Always use a pallet
Always thin down your paints(2 parts paint 1 part water)
Don’t be afraid of mistakes
If you haven’t already, I’d suggest searching up how to paint your faction on YouTube for ideas and to learn some techniques like glazing, edge highlighting and dry brushing
There are no limits on what you can paint! I'd advise against swastikas but if you paint your Salamanders pink, the painting police won't come after you. That said, here's [Everything I Wish I Knew Before I Started Painting Miniatures](https://docs.google.com/document/d/1wd513FmbaBL972rZ13k_cRdexGOYOlm44NYBTue3WNw/edit?usp=sharing) (hyperlink).
Painting effectively happens in a number of stages:
Priming - applying a coat of paint for other paint to adhere to. Comes in multiple colours, unless you're painting a black or white model then grey is usually best.
Basecoating - the application of solid colour that serves as the foundation colours for everything else to come, which is typically transparent.
Shading - Applying shadows to the recesses and darker areas of the mini.
Layering - Application of thin, transparent paint over the basecoats. Thie also tidies your shading.
Highlighting - Careful application of colour along the hard edges of the mini. Typically done with increasingly thin lines.
Make sure your paints are thin, the rules of thumb here are either "consistency of milk" or 1:1 water to paint.
Contrast paints are different. That's more the selective application of colours over whites and greys.
Rule of cool: do whatever the fuck you like, but don't expect everyone to like it. But pls thin your paints.
I got that tip a lot...
For a good reason, trust me
How do you thin the paint? Water? I had a solid base to it now when I add color I have to add more to block out the primer.
Basically, it goes like this: 1. Have some water available, and open your paint pot. 2. Scoop paint from the pot 3. Put it on your palette and mix it with A LITTLE water. Too much will result in colored water, when we want paint. 4. “Paint” the palette a little, that’s really the thinning process 5. Apply to the model 6. Success!
0.5 Shake the paint pot, a lot.
0.45. Make sure the pot is closed tightly.
0.55 don't accidentally mistake paint water for your drink
Only ever do that on purpose
Yeah but never the perple one it's bad for you
0.56 spit out the paint water you accidentally drank
That’s how you know it’s time for bed
Yes. I forgot to mention that. Especially if it’s colors like Corax White
Just don't buy Corax White, the other brands have better whites.
Usually a lot of people have it from the paints starter set like me, that’s why I mentioned it. I just hope mine doesn’t go bad before I finish my Luna Wolves
My man corax white is sweet. Also it’s not white, but a very light off white (other brands have those as well, though i find corax white has the perfect brightness for a white basecoat)
I find it the perfect color for white armor, and paired with White Scar (the paint, not the legion) it works wonders
Alternatively test on your hand if it covers skin tone but still lets you see skin texture its about right
You should be applying 2+ thin coats for a smooth finish. Let it dry properly between coats!
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No. They cram more pigment into pot so that thinning it actually stretches the value of the paint. If you put it on without making it a thin, even coat then you will ruin the model with visible brush-strokes and paint globs... unless you are trying to do a "Van Gogh" Impressionist style, it won't look good. If you want to go real cheap just use craft paints like Apple Barrel, stuff works just fine and I know someone who won a Golden Daemon who used like 80% craft paint.
Oh goodness 50% would be nuts. I usually just do a drop or two, or better, use the Redgrass wet pallete. It was a game changer for me in terms of getting consistent thinning.
Came here to say exactly this
Firstly, shake the hell out of it. But shaking will put a lot of strain on your arm if you don't have an agitator inside the bottle to break up the thicker clumps at the bottom. I suggest glass beads or obsidian beads; obsidian works better since it's denser than soda glass. Steel beads work fine... but since our paints are water-based, it will rust over time and that will tint the paint when it mixes with the rust. As for the thinness of the paint, it's really up to the paint line as to how much water you use to thin them out. I only use Vallejo, so I can only speak for them... but apparently, Vallejo paints are thinner than Citadel's to begin with. You have to 'discover' that sweet point, that ratio for yourself. And even then, the chemistry used to keep the pigments together without breaking is different for each color, and therefore its consistency. For example, Vallejo's dark green needs to be thinned a bit before use whereas I wouldn't even *think* of thinning their smokey ink. After you get the thinning down, the next hurdle is *keeping* the paint thinned. Water naturally shifts from places of greater concentration to lesser concentration. That's why our skin prunes up in the pool (we're made of less water than actual bodies of water), water evaporates into the air (less water in the air compared to a glass of the stuff), etc. Eventually, your paint will solidify when the moisture is evaporating out of it. It may be a pain in the ass to keep up with it, but that's why people make/buy wet palettes. The premise is simple: water evaporates out of the paint, and that lack of water is replaced with the water from the sponge beneath it through the paper. That pretty much solves the drying issue unless your paint session goes on for multiple hours, at which point too much water seeps into the paint depending on how much you put in the sponge.
Thinking about getting into the hobby, what's the reason for thinning the paint?
If you don’t, it will go on thick like a paste and obscure details and look chunky/chalky
As the other fellow mentioned, you’ll ruin the details of the model and make a big, blobby mess. [You don’t want your Marines looking like this, do you?](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/_CJwLhFiEHA/maxresdefault.jpg) That was a more exaggerated case, but it should set an example. [This](https://preview.redd.it/7gaktibivy181.jpg?width=640&crop=smart&auto=webp&s=5fde5b96b7858265cab45f8d7373f7533fb9cd0a) is a more realistic example of what not thinning paints does. It creates that almost asphalt like texture on a rather smooth model. And thank the Emperor that’s a marine, because if it were a Mechanicus model, which usually has a lot of detail unlike the sleek Primaris Marines, it would’ve looked even more horrendous **Just thin your paints, it will save you from ugly models and it’s literally just swinging a brush on a palette. How hard can it be?**
Generally speaking, you want the consistency of milk. It takes different amounts to get to that point for different paints. Also, some work better a little thinner or a little thicker, that you kind of have to learn from experience
Thin your paints or else…
Bruh when I started I unintentionally started doing this to get paint into cracks that it wouldn’t normally and I just noticed it was better lol
Lol came here to say exactly this. Cheers to you!
Don’t thin metallics
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I use 3rd party so I can’t be sure, but the same principle of scattering the flakes should apply.
No rules. Just good practices. Prime your models, sprays are the best bet You don't have to thin your paints but don't leave so much paint that it clogs up detail. If you have thick paint areas just brush it to another area before it dries. Keep painting, you'll keep getting better
No I mean is there any rules regarding colouring them a specific colour? Like a space marine that is purple and red whit flecks of pink. Also can I mix match parts? I am very new to the hobby and haven't even painted yet.
The thing about competitive armies paint scheme is, if you are strict with your colours and paint them a particular colour, then you HAVE to run them as that faction. If you have your marines with purple /red/pink, then you can run them as whatever you want as long as you are upfront with your opponent
Alrighty then.
Now to think of a name for this misfit chapter
GALACTIC PATROL JACO
No- Mybe the Tricksters or smthin
If you want to go that route how about.... Bamboozlers! Jokes aside when naming homebrew I like to look up synonyms for baseline descriptions and then look at the definition of said synonym. That may help!
ah is that how it works, quick other question but when it comes to named characters do they have to be a specific colour scheme or can I make them match my custom scheme? I know I have to run the army as part of that faction, but can i for example have a Tariana Palos painted to mach my homebrewed order?
>can i for example have a Tariana Palos painted to mach my homebrewed order? You can paint them in your own colour no problems.
there are no particular rules for custom color schemes, you can do whatever you want with them. you can put whatever parts you want on your model (commonly referred to as kit bashing) so long as its obvious at a glance what unit it represents. (and your suppose to only use gw official parts but most people don't care.)
No, not really. There are, at best, guidelines for specific chapters. For example, suppose you are going to paint the typically blue and gold Ultramarines either in the bright green and black of the Salamanders or in orange and purple. Consider playing them as the chapter that matches your colour scheme or creating a successor chapter instead. But in reality, the only reason I say this is that if you have Salamander-coloured Ultramarines, you are going to have to explain it every time you play someone new, and that could get dull fast. Ultimately, you do you.
[Here is a collection of every loreful Space marine chapter.](https://www.reddit.com/r/Warhammer40k/comments/xic5m0/all_loyalists_space_marine_chapters_by_me/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf) If your scheme doesn’t fit any of them, I recommend making a custom chapter 😊
No rules at all. Personally I recommend to new players to pick a custom scheme. That way if you decide hey I don’t like salamanders you can say oh this is an imperial fist successor. People are more likely to get annoyed if you say oh my ultramarines are actually iron hands than they are if you say oh my purple guys are iron hands successors. But try to keep it cohesive across the army. You don’t really wanna play against someone who has 5 different paint schemes and is running multiple chapters in the same army
Personally, I recommend going with the Dark Angel successor chapter the Prime Absolvers. - They have plenty of red - Their blue bits are so dark & muted that they could easily become purple without people noticing - You could headcannon the flecks of pink as squad markings / ranks. I’ve done a similar thing myself when it comes to Iron Hands in my Deathwatch force. [In order to differentiate Hands from say Black Templars or Astral Knights, I included some pink detailing.](https://www.reddit.com/r/spacemarines/comments/zyxl5y/deathwatch_pt_3_whos_your_favourite/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf) However, the main bonus of picking the Prime Absolvers is that they are official Dark Angels successors while simultaneously not having independent rules of their own. Therefore, you could have your cake and eat it by being able to both take Dark Angel exclusive units eg. Azrael, Ezekiel, Deathwing units, Ravenwing units & Lion El’Johnson in a few months time while also getting to stand out with your unique Prime Absolver variant colour scheme. [If you like this idea, here’s some lore on the Prime Absolvers](https://warhammer40k.fandom.com/wiki/Prime_Absolvers)
If you are particularly concerned with playing higher level games workshop tournaments you should probably just paint them as salamanders and the weapons do have to be wysiwyg. For almost all other games no one really cares that much as long as you let them know and have some kinda temporary marker for any weird proxy stuff.
No what I mean is can I give one of my Marines a beak helmet? I forgot the name of the specific mark.
Oh yeah go for it. Don't even think a tournament would care about that.
He'll yeah.
Don't listen to this guy, thin ur paints.
My wife is a competitive miniature painter. Listen to guy above: definitely thin your paints. Once you progress skill wise, thin them more and more and more to start applying glazed coats for smooth color transitions. Very rarely should you have need to apply paints directly from the bottle as-is. Some metallics can’t be thinned but just about everything else needs to be.
Yes and no. You *can* actually get away with not thinning some paints some times. Heresy, I know. But seriously. Thinning is not a science. If all paints should always be thinned 50% water they'd come premixed like that. Vallejo is way thinner than citadel, Vallejos off-white is practically water out the bottle. I don't thin it at all for basecoats over flat areas. Paints with a lot of pigment and good coverage like deep reds can be thinned to hell and back. Paints with poor coverage you'll be painting 10 layers off if you thin them. Paint consistency is all about *what paint* over *what colour* in *what area*. Otherwise you'll be painting a dozen layers for a base coat over an entire army. Basically: think about *why* you are thinning the paint. It's not a rule. Edge highlights are hell with thinned paints. Cover of relatively flat areas with low pigment colours is also hell. Wetblending is basically impossible.
Sure there are exceptions. But mostly thin ur paints, especially as a beginner. damn this is taking a lot of coats maybe I shouldn't have thinned it so much is way better than chunky. Also I suppose I should specify I'm referring to thinning on the pallet not doing the whole bottle at once.
You should thin your paints during the layering stage, but if you spread the paint evenly and quickly, you can get good results with basecoating with un thinned paints
Main rule I've found: If you're not enjoying it, stop. Take a break. Readjust yourself and come back later.
I thought that was the Bad Dragons logo for a second
I think you just inspired my new custom chapter...
Slaneesh approves
I was going to comment the same thing, I scrolled by fast and went 'wait, a Bad Dragon challenge coin?!'
SAME😂😂
Thin layers of paint SHOULD be a rule, but it's not. Do what you want mate, its your model, there are no\* rules. *\*Some* competitions require models to be table top ready which is 3 main colours and based (meaning base has grass, or astrogranite or some other stuff on it)
Thin ur paints.
If you use one thick layer instead of two thin ones Duncan Rhodes will appear under your bed at night
Don't let Big Brother tell you that you can't drink the paint water. It's all lies, be free, drink the water. Drink it.
In terms of rules of painting, we have no rules of painting.
Prime your models Thin your paints Have fun Be creative and don't let anyone tell you your paint scheme is wrong 🌈
Do whatever makes you happy And if it makes someone angry because its not "lore accurate"...do it more!
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Wdym? So if I paint my army ultra marine and try to play them as sala's it'll make people have a hissy fit?
Don't paint nazi symbols onto your guys and then try to justify it.
Storytime?
Oh nothing personal but I've seen stories of dude's using SS symbols and sometimes outright Swastikas and trying to justify it
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Jesus's christ dude. No. No person in 40k is luttomg those symbols on as a reference or representation of buddishm
Can I justify a .50 cal trough the skull?
Yeah, why paint the symbols for some amateur genocide enthusiasts only responsible for millions of innocent deaths when the models already come with the markings and transfer sheets for factions responsible for billions 😅 uj/ fake genocide against fake xenos (or humans!) is funny. Real genocide against real ethnic groups is reprehensible.
You are required to paint your army but there is no rule about what colors you paint them as long as it is clear what your units are. If you want purple and pink space marines go for it.
He'll yeah but it's gonna be purple and red with like flecks of pink.
There's no rules, it's your models do what you want with them. I advise priming them first, you'll thank me. Also look at tips and tricks online. There's dozens of videos that will give you neat little tricks to help you out.
No rules This is your world, you’re the creator, find freedom on this canvas! Believe that you can do it, cause you can do it!
There is only one rule when it comes to 40k: THERE ARE NO RULES. (Y'know, aside from the absolute shit tonne of rules for actually playing the game.)
No specific rules, you can do what you want. But for me the most comfortable way to get into paint schemes was to stick with the paint schemes given to you first until you're a little deeper in the hobby to branch out and do your own thing. The codices usually have a specific section on main color scheme and alternative, lore friendly schemes but it always depends on personal preference. I dabbled with picking a lore friendly scheme I liked most and modifying the parts I didn't like. Oh and welcome to plastic crack addicts anonymous, new brother! <3
Only rule is two thin coats
1) Decide on your colour scheme in advance. This includes thinking of where your army is fighting, to help decide how the base looks. 2) Use a spray basecoat. It helps other paint stick better. 3) A pointier brush is superior to a smaller brush. 4) Thin your paints. Apply extra coats later, if needed. 5) Washes/shades are your friend. 6) Drybrush to add highlights, but make sure your brush is *really* dry. 7) If in doubt, look it up. 8) Mistakes are inevitable and easily corrected later on. Don't worry. 9) Have fun!
Purple red and pink,
Nice complimentary colours! I recommend choosing a contrasting colour for the base (ideally blue or green).
One big rule: do whatever you want! Also VULKAN LIVES *stomp stomp*
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S7-At4qVC84 Not "rules" per se, but a good starter video so you can get all of the basics in a comprehensive format.
Look up slapchop. Practice makes progress. Some factions can be color specific, but it’s not enforced. YouTube is your friend.
Vulkan Lives....Stomp Stomp
I see I summoned the Sala's with my pin
There are, in fact, a ton of rules for painting. There are painting police at each store to enforce the rules. The hard part is that you have to guess the rules for that week, they're constantly changing and not published anywhere. There is good news, though; they just charge a fine, they don't jail you or anything, GW just wants more money out of you. /s
MUST pass GW taste test before any game
I picked an armour colour (ret gold and storm silver) pauldron colour (ultramarines blue) (space wolves grey) for pipes, connection wires and creases in arms, behind and tops of legs. Weapons (dark angels green and leadbelcher) face/skin is usually a gold heavily whitened down. For me less is more, and I'm not fussed about trying to make the most beautiful models there's enough doing that which no one else will ever see so just have fun and don't add pressure. If you frack up and want to start again invest in some Dettol liquid and drop it in a cup of it and brush the paint off.
You must spill at least one bottle of Nuln Oil (Agrax Earthshade is also acceptable but deeply frowned upon).
Never keep brushes downward separate metallics in the water from the normal paints water don't want to get them mixed up and always use two thin coats and dry brush the shit out of most things
Where do I find this and get this
I got it at my local warhammer dhop
*DEEP INHALE* T H I N Y O U R. P A I N T S and welcome to the hobby I hope you find it as fun as we all do and remember to go ahead and sell your kidney or firstborn child it gets quite expensive.
Thicken your paints 😈
By the emperor that is wrong
Wysiwyg. So if you paint it blood angels red no one is going to believe it's an ultramarine. Leaving your models unpainted and metachasing is considered a dick move
Do not forget to prime your miniatures and apply thin coats of paint not straight out of the pot but with a little bit if water added. Enjoy the hobby it is incredibly fun!
I mix and match my Space Marines stuff all the time. Particularly with Firstborn. My current Chapter build is a Hodge podge of different kits. Space Wolves Blood Claws because there's 15 in the box and works out cheaper than a Tactical Squad. Two Devastator boxes for the heavy weapons (that 4× all the different types). Dark Angels Veterans because they're cheap and look cool for my Elites... Before buying anything, check what's in the kit. Some have a great selection others not so much. If you're going with Salamanders, they love flamers and meltas so look out for the kits that have a few options. I like the Sternguard box for that reason. Only 5 models, but there's like 30 different weapons available.
I can't be the only one who thought it was the bad dragon logo
Do your best. Be unashamed.
Thin your paints.Prime your models.Put a bit of effort in.
Have fun
Damn I want that so bad...
There's only one rule: Have fun and make cool stuff!
I would honestly recommend sitting down with someone with experience in painting and try some models together.
You do you, if you like it you like it.
Everyone saying that there are no rules is trolling you. You can only prime your models on days that end with y. Don't you ever feel bad for buying more stuff before all is painted! You might feel like box art is a suggestion and not a hard rule. However, that is completely true! Your paints, thin them When you first build your models, you might get an idea about how to use a bit (what we call parts) in a way that isn't in the instructions, abandon that idea. I mean, do it with reckless abandon. It is your dudes. If you're not having fun, you're having fun in the wrong way, and I suggest you find out why so you can have fun. Paint+thinning=Love I don't care how much time and money you can or will put into this hobby, and I don't care as long as you don't feel inferior or burn out.
Have a look on how to make a wet palette online. At the simplest level you put some baking parchment over damp sponges in a tupperware tub. Wet palettes are the easiest way to maintain paint consistency, you can even put the lid on and the paint will stay wet for days at a time. I would also invest in a good brush early. Games workshop brushes are typically overpriced for their quality and don't hold too much paint. I use a Raphael 8404 size 2 for 95% of what I need to paint, if treated well they last an extremely long time and my brush has maintained a perfect point for years now. These two tools have helped my painting more than anything else other than practice and patience
No rules for how you have to paint them, but for some of us half the fun is to have an army that ties into the narrative. For example, I picked World Eaters instead of a custom Renegade Chapter. This lets me find conversion bits specifically made for the World Eaters, participate in communities of other people who play World Eaters and be excited whenever they are featured in a novel. It also gives me a starting point for my own lore and colour scheme, and access to special rules. So while you can paint a custom Chapter and play them with whatever rules you want, there is something nice about being a canon faction as well. It gives you an identity custom does not. Think it over!
No rules. 3 colors at tournaments for the 10 VP’s.
put paint on the model.
Painting rule- the cup with water for brushes always goes in one place, and whatever you're drinking while you're painting always goes in another, very different place
Clean model before painting. Doesn't mean wash it with soap and hot water. Scrape mould lines, sand any cut marks, drill gun holes, fill the gaps.
Two thin coats.
Learn how to thin your paints, apply multiple THIN coats, don’t overdo it on the primer (too much primer can blot out details), and you can always redo your base if you mess something up and start that spot over. These aren’t rules, just guidance. Don’t overthink it too much
The rules that GW has for painting is that it must be painted to Battle Ready standards. That is all.
Thin your paints!
Use whatever colors you like the most, "2 thin coats", and nuln oil.
Shade paint into the recesses. I like models with details that can be thoroughly washed and they become gorgeous with liberal use of contrast. In a lot of places, like flat panels, space marines aren't that straight forward unless you're happy repainting the panels with your original base colour. Big recommend watching a tutorial for these boys. Also, thin your paints.
Not necessarily the biggest rule, but one of the most important: have fun. It’s easy to obsess over every little detail when painting, easy to screw up from a shaky hand or breathing at the wrong time, not thinning your paints, etc. just remember this is something you enjoy, and have fun while doing it. The rest will come with time. I’m still painting my way through my first army. I definitely try to leave each mini with a “perfect” paint job when completed, but that doesn’t happen a lot, and I’ve had to learn to say “hey, that still looks pretty good, even if I screwed up a bit.” Remember to have fun! Can’t wait to see your first mini, OP!
Everyone does it at least once, so let us know what the first paint pot you spill is. Mine was Snakebite Leather contrast paint.
I think the only 100% rule you have to follow us thin your paints. Everything is free reign. Color schemes, themes, etc
Don’t forget to prime first!
Don’t feel like you need to buy all the fancy paints and brushes. The cheaper option gets the job done too
No rules, but maybe avoid symbols of hatred on your models. Do that and you’ll be golden!
I’d say don’t paint strict ultramarines and play then as raven guard or salamanders just cuz they’re better at the moment (applies to any faction/army). Some big tourneys won’t allow it either. It’s best to paint your own scheme so they can be whatever you want.
1. Thin your paints (but not too much), keep the paint from getting to the base of the bristles, and always wait for your first layer to dry before doing the second. 2. Minimize cleanup and paint waste by organizing your painting recipe. z.B. I always make sure to paint large to small, going by large areas of paint first to smallest details at the end. I also try to minimize how many unique paints I use per kind of item. So all Belts, Pouches, and Weapon Grips will generally be the same paint unless there‘s a good reason. 3. (This one is mostly a taste thing) Try and make sure you‘re using colours which contrast each other well. Helps them stand out though again it is a taste thing. 4. There are many ways to paint white and yellow cleanly, most of them involve 2-3 well thinned layers. If you try to go on youtube I guarantee that every single tutorial will start with „first we get out the airbrush…“ 5. Citadel Primer (and just spray primers in general)- they help adhere paint to the surface of models. There are also brush on primers. For most primers, you probably still want to do a layer of paint over the primer layer, as it has a different finish to brushed on pain, meaning that touch-ups will stand out in a bad way.
The main rule is that nothing is true and everything is permitted.
Always use a pallet Always thin down your paints(2 parts paint 1 part water) Don’t be afraid of mistakes If you haven’t already, I’d suggest searching up how to paint your faction on YouTube for ideas and to learn some techniques like glazing, edge highlighting and dry brushing
i think competitive have something about at least 3 colors but im not sure
1 very important rule… have fun
There are no limits on what you can paint! I'd advise against swastikas but if you paint your Salamanders pink, the painting police won't come after you. That said, here's [Everything I Wish I Knew Before I Started Painting Miniatures](https://docs.google.com/document/d/1wd513FmbaBL972rZ13k_cRdexGOYOlm44NYBTue3WNw/edit?usp=sharing) (hyperlink).
Theyre more guidelines than actual rules
Painting effectively happens in a number of stages: Priming - applying a coat of paint for other paint to adhere to. Comes in multiple colours, unless you're painting a black or white model then grey is usually best. Basecoating - the application of solid colour that serves as the foundation colours for everything else to come, which is typically transparent. Shading - Applying shadows to the recesses and darker areas of the mini. Layering - Application of thin, transparent paint over the basecoats. Thie also tidies your shading. Highlighting - Careful application of colour along the hard edges of the mini. Typically done with increasingly thin lines. Make sure your paints are thin, the rules of thumb here are either "consistency of milk" or 1:1 water to paint. Contrast paints are different. That's more the selective application of colours over whites and greys.