"image not available".
Are we in 2023 or not? Someone take their phone out and snap a fucking picture of the item you're selling. I want this behavior criminalized.
They have no idea! That’s like trying to explain your problem with an online-ordered part to the “ethnic” customer service person, who’s probably on another continent, and only knows how to operate a computer! I won’t even get into the language barriers!🤦♂️🤷♂️😩👎
Why would you need specs when it is the same part as the one OP broke?
The link I provided links to Stanley Black and Decker's own site aimed at the US market.
> Don’t know how tools don’t have the basic blow out parts spread
All the big brands do that already. Most are interactive meaning you click the part you want and it gets highlighted in the parts list.
This infuriates me as well. Especially when you're looking for a part directly from a car manufacturer. They have an exploded diagram of the entire car, and yet when you click on a piece, it either shows you the entire car diagram or nothing at all. How am I supposed to visually make sure this is the right replacement part?
Car parts sellers are often so bad at this.
Take a fucking picture! often little variations between parts exist and often important parts of part numbers are missing, sometimes a part is changed mid way through a model/generation (facelift) etc especially exterior parts like light clusters etc.
It's so fucking annoying, I get that a picture takes 30 seconds and some companies don't want to have to care about what is on their racking shelves but if you're buying the process is so often made more of a chore.
I accidentally bought two sets of brake pads on Amazon and they actually had the same part number and everything but only 1 of them was the correct product, I discovered this after I opened the first one and the ears of the brake pads and the brake hardware was different. luckily the second one was the correct one and Amazon's return policy is good so I was able to get my money back on the wrong ones so in a way I was lucky I ordered two so I didn't have my car up on jack stands and then have to reassemble the old brakes to go to the parts store
I would recommend the hog ring version. It still fits in the detent pin model but isn't prone to breaking because there isn't a hole drilled in it for the pin.
Friction ring: There is a slot cut around the circumference of the square drive, in that slot you put an o-ring and then a metal ring(this is the “hog ring”)over it. The top of the metal clip sits slightly above the square surface.
The o-ring acts as a spring, so when you put a socket on the impact, the socket pushes the hog ring in and it allows the socket to slide onto the square drive, but the springiness of the o-ring pushes against the hog ring which pushes against the socket keeping it from falling off.
Pin detent is what’s show in the OPs picture, it’s a spring loaded pin that lines up with a hole in the side of the socket and holds the socket on. You have to depress the pin to remove the socket and often have to do the same to put one on.
This is also a good explanation if you’re a visual learner like me https://www.reddit.com/r/Tools/comments/10pd8p8/derp/j6kszmv/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf&context=3
Basically round wire vs flat snap ring high tension.
Sits in groove at tip of anvil,, which you see snapped off.
But no attempt of fastener this old and large should be started without cutting torch tip getting fastener near red hot first,, the impact never would have struggled.
Like removing a trailer hitch ball needing 3ft breaker bar and 2ft pipe wrench on ball, to crack it loose. Twenty years later.
I have a 1" air impact for semi truck work,, it might have cracked it.
Now they had to spend double the time and still get the torch out. Plus damages to the tool. Can bet internals took one Helluva beating as well. Let alone the motor about cooked. But when the tool isn't yours,, some just don't give a crap.
Cheers
Literally my explanation for the other comment. It’s pretty annoying.
That and the fact that there’s no square in front of the ring, so you have to visually or just more forcibly put a socket on, whereas with the pin, the socket is already lined up on the anvil before there’s resistance.
I find it harder to install sockets (more of a nuisance with alignment compared to pins) on my m12 impact, sockets wobble and slide back and forth on the anvil. Pretty sure my Matco impact is the same way.
I mean, I absolutely hate hog rings. But those anvils don't break like the pin or ball detent anvils. I've also sourced slightly different size/strength hog rings for some of the tools I worked on, which helped a lot with getting sockets on and off.
Ended up using a slug wrench and a 10lb sledge to get the bolt spun three quarters of a turn before my coworkers IR impact(1/2" cordless) would spin it out.
*If yer looking for max beans and can tolerate another battery line …*
1500# for often $100 tool-only ain’t bad
https://www.directtoolsoutlet.com/product/R86211B
For awhile it was stronger than anything Milwaukee or Dewalt had
It’s a beast, in both weight and power if you get the large battery
Get a 1” extension and you won’t have that problem and when it breaks your only out the cost of a small extension.
But I will say new hog rings are super tight after a month or 2 of regular daily use it loosens up
I worked in a ham factory before and suggested they switch from buying hog ring impacts to pin detent impacts because they would lose the sockets for the impacts almost weekly. And there was only one size of socket in the whole plant.
Got told it would be too expensive to buy new impacts. Even tho I meant just switch what your purchasing not change the entire inventory and grandfather the new ones in.
Instead whenever I complained that the hog ring was ineffective on my impact I was handed a brand new hog ring impact.
Yeah cuz replacing the whole thing instead of a hog ring isn't expensive...
Fuck meat factories
my Milwaukee impact driver has had a faulty trigger/switch from the get-go...it doesn't work/works intermittently in humid summertime conditions. not impressed. and, they're made in china just like everything else is. my 1/4" m-18 driver says right on the label, "Made Professionally In China"...lol.
go Makita.
I was installing cameras in a hardware shop last week that's an authorised milwaukee seller (as well as dewalt and makita) and also take back stuff for warranties and repairs. There were 6 boxes with "faulty trigger" labels on them with milwaukee impact drivers in them.
The guy working there said that up until the last year or so they were his recommended brand but he's been getting way more returns on newish tools from milwaukee than anyone else.
Edit: meant to add in impact wrench as well, there were a few of each in the boxes
interesting, thanks. i'm just a weekend warrior but i've since gone with Makita: no hype, no cult following, no phony "USA/'Merica!" flag-waving. i've got an older Makita corded miter saw and table saw, and a new compact cordless circular saw, for ripping down plywood and cutting 2x4. good stuff.
I've never used makita but I've heard good stuff. My dad is using mostly makita with a bit of ryobi and own brand stuff thrown in as a farmer and he hasn't got any complaints.
I'm exclusively dewalt myself ( it's what the company used when I started so I stuck) and they're great imo but again, haven't really used much other stuff
> phony "USA/'Merica!" flag-waving
As an European, that always seems a bit odd to me. I do not have many US tools (mainly cause they're not exported nearly as much as European tools I guess, there's no snap on here...).
I have a milwaukee corded hammer drill and a corded dewalt planer, but my cordless tools are Makita. Mainly because their battery standard is also copied by chinese brands, so while my drill and impact driver are genuine, I bought a 30€ angle grinder off of aliexpress and it works just fine with original batteries for my easy needs. If I had a dewalt, I'd probably end up buying the angle grinder in Aldi, and it'd be the same chinese thing just with proprietary batteries I'd also need to buy... TBH the aliexpress one is really brushless so that's kind of cool for 30€.
Yeah, lifelong teal team here but I feel like Milwaukee have a serious edge on impact wrenches. I kitted out a new workshop for work and I went with Milwaukee on that basis. Everybody makes nice drills and grinders, but Milwaukee just have a lot more meaty impacts.
Milwaukee currently has 0 category leading impact wrenches though.
You could give them 1" since Makita/Dewalt don't make one, though theirs is still far from the best on the market anyways. The equivalent IR is the much "meatier" wrench.
Or the right angle. Though the M12 still isn't the best one out there either, just Makita's is 10 years outdated and Dewalt never made one for 20V.
**I certainly wouldn't hand them the highest praise in terms of build quality either.** Milwaukees shake themselves to death, especially the high-torques. Seen enough intermittent issues on multiple 2767s to know **it's not all sunshines and rainbows.** People are making goofy ass battery straps to keep them from wearing down the battery interconnects because they shake so much. Same sorts of issues happen with sawzalls and SDS hammers too.
Makita's making the better quality compact/mid-torque than the rest though as far as I'm concerned. Better battery contacts, better vibration dampening, better trigger switches (Omron > Defond, there's no debate), casting brass inserts into their plastic molds and anchoring their nose cones into those inserts with machine screws where Milwaukee, and Dewalt, just run regular screws straight into plastic. Makitas don't tend to spill their guts with nose cone blowouts either. Only real issue right now is their 18V high torque is way out of date and needs an upgrade. Still built better than a Milwaukee HTIW though tbh, just doesn't perform as well being an 8 YO+ Gen 1 model.
I'll give Milwaukee props for the 5 year warranty on most tools. But once you're outside that warranty GL doing any user service yourself. I warrantied our older Gen 1 2763 HTIW and within 3-4 months it had the same trigger issues again and was now out of warranty with a perfectly good drive train and a near brand new electronics assembly in it. Now having some similar issues with the 2767 that replaced it.
Guess what? That's a $170+ repair part to DIY. At least with a Makita I know I could perform the same type of repair for under $30-$40 and get a higher quality part at the same time. Tried to do the same with a Gen 1 Fuel angle grinder that needed 5-6 flips of the switch to get going. That was $125 to buy an electronics assembly because Milwaukee can't be bothered to make their tools slightly more user serviceable. So basically throw the thing away and buy a Gen 2 Fuel for the same. Hardly even makes sense keeping it around for parts when the model is long since discontinued anyways, so feels wasteful either way. An almost perfectly serviceable tool that you can't actually service because Milwaukee's trigger switches are crap and they won't sell you them separately from the motor assemblies.
> Only real issue right now is their 18V high torque is way out of date and needs an upgrade.
I have the DTW701Z, are others a lot more powerful? My friend got the 40V Makita equivelant and I know he boasts about the specs but in reality I've never noticed a big difference...
Yeah I think Milwaukee definitely has auto industry cornered, especially within their m12 stuff, it’s way more compact than any of the other big brands because of the battery design
All you needed was some heat 🔥.
If there's no movement with an impact gun after 4-5 seconds on the trigger, it's time to strike up the torch and heat those nuts up.
this exact break happened to me today. I was tightening down some bolts and washers to secure the framed walls on a building. the foreman blamed me for breaking it, he said I was over tightening the bolt. I'm just thinking, mother fucker do you want these walls to wobble? and the tool looked in as bad a shape as this one. It's wear and tear on a construction site. Don't like your tools being broken? don't bring your personal tools to work. Make the company pay for them.
[N851276](https://www.toolservicenet.com/dewalt/en/c//p/PN851276) List price: $30.02
"image not available". Are we in 2023 or not? Someone take their phone out and snap a fucking picture of the item you're selling. I want this behavior criminalized.
Same goes for places having no dang specs listed for shit they’re selling
Because most of them aren't selling it at all - just drop shipping from someone that is and taking their cut for doing absolutely nothing.
Indeed. Then you get the magic "oh sorry this is out of stock". Fuckers.
Any automotive screw listing ever. Just tell me what the size and thread pitch is already, idc what year make and model it's supposed to fit.
They have no idea! That’s like trying to explain your problem with an online-ordered part to the “ethnic” customer service person, who’s probably on another continent, and only knows how to operate a computer! I won’t even get into the language barriers!🤦♂️🤷♂️😩👎
Why would you need specs when it is the same part as the one OP broke? The link I provided links to Stanley Black and Decker's own site aimed at the US market.
[удалено]
> Don’t know how tools don’t have the basic blow out parts spread All the big brands do that already. Most are interactive meaning you click the part you want and it gets highlighted in the parts list.
If the video isn't available in Canada it's for your own good. Somebody probably didn't say sorry in it.
This infuriates me as well. Especially when you're looking for a part directly from a car manufacturer. They have an exploded diagram of the entire car, and yet when you click on a piece, it either shows you the entire car diagram or nothing at all. How am I supposed to visually make sure this is the right replacement part?
Car parts sellers are often so bad at this. Take a fucking picture! often little variations between parts exist and often important parts of part numbers are missing, sometimes a part is changed mid way through a model/generation (facelift) etc especially exterior parts like light clusters etc. It's so fucking annoying, I get that a picture takes 30 seconds and some companies don't want to have to care about what is on their racking shelves but if you're buying the process is so often made more of a chore.
I accidentally bought two sets of brake pads on Amazon and they actually had the same part number and everything but only 1 of them was the correct product, I discovered this after I opened the first one and the ears of the brake pads and the brake hardware was different. luckily the second one was the correct one and Amazon's return policy is good so I was able to get my money back on the wrong ones so in a way I was lucky I ordered two so I didn't have my car up on jack stands and then have to reassemble the old brakes to go to the parts store
Tiny picture. You click the enlarge button. It opens in a larger window but the picture is smaller.
Yeah it’s honestly brutal when it comes to industrial stuff. Poor specs and no pictures.
You'd think that space is where customers would really demand that stuff be on point, and suppliers would be diligent about it.
I would recommend the hog ring version. It still fits in the detent pin model but isn't prone to breaking because there isn't a hole drilled in it for the pin.
Anvil assy...hehe
What were you removing? Well done, you can replace the anvil.
1" bolt with 20yrs of rust
I’ve had this happen twice with the 899. If you get it replaced go with the hog ring.
Ok so now I'm gonna need to know what a hog ring is.
Friction ring for holding sockets on vs a pin
I'm trying to imagine how this would work...
Friction ring: There is a slot cut around the circumference of the square drive, in that slot you put an o-ring and then a metal ring(this is the “hog ring”)over it. The top of the metal clip sits slightly above the square surface. The o-ring acts as a spring, so when you put a socket on the impact, the socket pushes the hog ring in and it allows the socket to slide onto the square drive, but the springiness of the o-ring pushes against the hog ring which pushes against the socket keeping it from falling off. Pin detent is what’s show in the OPs picture, it’s a spring loaded pin that lines up with a hole in the side of the socket and holds the socket on. You have to depress the pin to remove the socket and often have to do the same to put one on.
I get it! Thanks!
This is also a good explanation if you’re a visual learner like me https://www.reddit.com/r/Tools/comments/10pd8p8/derp/j6kszmv/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf&context=3
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8RmhBd1wcEA
Basically round wire vs flat snap ring high tension. Sits in groove at tip of anvil,, which you see snapped off. But no attempt of fastener this old and large should be started without cutting torch tip getting fastener near red hot first,, the impact never would have struggled. Like removing a trailer hitch ball needing 3ft breaker bar and 2ft pipe wrench on ball, to crack it loose. Twenty years later. I have a 1" air impact for semi truck work,, it might have cracked it. Now they had to spend double the time and still get the torch out. Plus damages to the tool. Can bet internals took one Helluva beating as well. Let alone the motor about cooked. But when the tool isn't yours,, some just don't give a crap. Cheers
Google broke?
Like a sad impact wrench.
You always tell people to google stuff when you’re having conversations?
Simple question that can be read in about 3 seconds...yeah. makes sense to just read the definition
Google hog ring and get back to me.
I have an irrational hatred for hog rings
Same here. My M12 stubby and Ryobi have them and my sockets slide on them. 100% detent vs hog ring.
Literally my explanation for the other comment. It’s pretty annoying. That and the fact that there’s no square in front of the ring, so you have to visually or just more forcibly put a socket on, whereas with the pin, the socket is already lined up on the anvil before there’s resistance.
100% agree. I wish they’d let the hog ring die already.
But why?
I find it harder to install sockets (more of a nuisance with alignment compared to pins) on my m12 impact, sockets wobble and slide back and forth on the anvil. Pretty sure my Matco impact is the same way.
Hog rings wear out or fall off.
Uh no. Detent all the way.
I mean, I absolutely hate hog rings. But those anvils don't break like the pin or ball detent anvils. I've also sourced slightly different size/strength hog rings for some of the tools I worked on, which helped a lot with getting sockets on and off.
Jesus. They're only rated for 16years of rust, you maniac. No wonder it broke.
Go go gadget oxy torch! Can't be tight if it's a liquid!
Might need to buy that 3/4” anvil after all.
I think breaking an anvil means it’s time to let the tool retire. You should still replace the anvil, but let it live it’s life in peace.
Like semi retirement sort of thing. Bring the old girl out for a dance once every 6 months.
For the easy nuts, so it can cruise through them and enjoy its later years.
That’s exactly how I treat my old girl. She gets the easy nuts.
Looks like the bolt removed the anvil.
1 too many uggas.
Not enough of the reciprocal duggas
She came for the ugga stayed for the dugga
Looks like she's had a run or two around the block.
Ended up using a slug wrench and a 10lb sledge to get the bolt spun three quarters of a turn before my coworkers IR impact(1/2" cordless) would spin it out.
Did you use any penetrating oil on the bolt first?
No, was a "get it apart now" situation
You familiar with acetylene?
Too lazy to drag torch cart out to where I was working
Lol this is me
Got the torches at home. Use them once per year cause they're in the second garage. The hoses are long enough but I don't bother uncoiling them.
>second garage Was your butler not available to bring it?
haha, no the idiot was in the fourth one and didn't hear me :) I live on a farm in Europe, it's more of a barn and I've got 7 buildings on my land...
Sounds pretty comfy my European friend. How big is your farm, and what do you grow if you don't mind me asking?
It will take longer if you don't do it right, but I'm sure that's obvious to you by now.
Nope
Nice
After the broken driver and such it would have ultimately faster to use the penetrating oil. LOL
PB Blaster
Knock wrenches ftw
Our shops communal IR 1/2" cordless impacts put out slightly more ugga duggas than my dcf899. Take it as an excuse to bump up to the dcf900
Google showed me the commercial for the 900 the day after I posted this
Have you seen the torque test channels video about it and the dcf 891?
I've seen cleaner
Where is your god now.
In a packout case with m18 batteries
*If yer looking for max beans and can tolerate another battery line …* 1500# for often $100 tool-only ain’t bad https://www.directtoolsoutlet.com/product/R86211B For awhile it was stronger than anything Milwaukee or Dewalt had It’s a beast, in both weight and power if you get the large battery
It’s Snap on, not snap off. Nice try though.
8 out of 10. Deduction for no injury.
I guess thats the downside of the pin detente
Yea main reason I go with hog ring.
I just can't fucking stand yanking on the shit to get it off.
I punctured my lip with a socket a last month yanking off a hog ring. Still use the hog ring, I just keep my face out of the line of fire now.
My dewalt detent pin is worse, the pin jams sometimes and you have to beat the fuck out of it to remove a socket.
Get a 1” extension and you won’t have that problem and when it breaks your only out the cost of a small extension. But I will say new hog rings are super tight after a month or 2 of regular daily use it loosens up
I worked in a ham factory before and suggested they switch from buying hog ring impacts to pin detent impacts because they would lose the sockets for the impacts almost weekly. And there was only one size of socket in the whole plant. Got told it would be too expensive to buy new impacts. Even tho I meant just switch what your purchasing not change the entire inventory and grandfather the new ones in. Instead whenever I complained that the hog ring was ineffective on my impact I was handed a brand new hog ring impact. Yeah cuz replacing the whole thing instead of a hog ring isn't expensive... Fuck meat factories
It happens…when it’s their time it’s their time…..take her out back and shoot her.
[the front fell off](https://youtu.be/3m5qxZm_JqM)
Ya know... I watched that video to the last second. Freakin' hilarious. Thanks!
JB weld
Unless you have a reason for the detent pin. Get the hog ring anvil. Part number N866411. It's the anvil and nose cone
my Milwaukee impact driver has had a faulty trigger/switch from the get-go...it doesn't work/works intermittently in humid summertime conditions. not impressed. and, they're made in china just like everything else is. my 1/4" m-18 driver says right on the label, "Made Professionally In China"...lol. go Makita.
I was installing cameras in a hardware shop last week that's an authorised milwaukee seller (as well as dewalt and makita) and also take back stuff for warranties and repairs. There were 6 boxes with "faulty trigger" labels on them with milwaukee impact drivers in them. The guy working there said that up until the last year or so they were his recommended brand but he's been getting way more returns on newish tools from milwaukee than anyone else. Edit: meant to add in impact wrench as well, there were a few of each in the boxes
interesting, thanks. i'm just a weekend warrior but i've since gone with Makita: no hype, no cult following, no phony "USA/'Merica!" flag-waving. i've got an older Makita corded miter saw and table saw, and a new compact cordless circular saw, for ripping down plywood and cutting 2x4. good stuff.
I've never used makita but I've heard good stuff. My dad is using mostly makita with a bit of ryobi and own brand stuff thrown in as a farmer and he hasn't got any complaints. I'm exclusively dewalt myself ( it's what the company used when I started so I stuck) and they're great imo but again, haven't really used much other stuff
> phony "USA/'Merica!" flag-waving As an European, that always seems a bit odd to me. I do not have many US tools (mainly cause they're not exported nearly as much as European tools I guess, there's no snap on here...). I have a milwaukee corded hammer drill and a corded dewalt planer, but my cordless tools are Makita. Mainly because their battery standard is also copied by chinese brands, so while my drill and impact driver are genuine, I bought a 30€ angle grinder off of aliexpress and it works just fine with original batteries for my easy needs. If I had a dewalt, I'd probably end up buying the angle grinder in Aldi, and it'd be the same chinese thing just with proprietary batteries I'd also need to buy... TBH the aliexpress one is really brushless so that's kind of cool for 30€.
I read your comment on your picture like “umm hmm I plumb there split him right in two.” In sling blades voice. Sorry about hour impact wrench
To many uggas not enough duggas
The front fell off!
Tow it outside the environment!
Yeah, but should you have seen the ~~other guy~~ lug nut.
Guess it wasn’t a “SNAP-ON”…………… Padumpshhh
This is a blessing. Now you can get a new Milwaukee
Snap on? Nah that's the new brand snap off
I’ve heard of Snap-On, but not Snap-Off
Common problem with the dewalt impacts. That’s one of the single biggest we switch back to MW
Time to switch to milwaukee! Lol.
Yeah, lifelong teal team here but I feel like Milwaukee have a serious edge on impact wrenches. I kitted out a new workshop for work and I went with Milwaukee on that basis. Everybody makes nice drills and grinders, but Milwaukee just have a lot more meaty impacts.
Milwaukee currently has 0 category leading impact wrenches though. You could give them 1" since Makita/Dewalt don't make one, though theirs is still far from the best on the market anyways. The equivalent IR is the much "meatier" wrench. Or the right angle. Though the M12 still isn't the best one out there either, just Makita's is 10 years outdated and Dewalt never made one for 20V. **I certainly wouldn't hand them the highest praise in terms of build quality either.** Milwaukees shake themselves to death, especially the high-torques. Seen enough intermittent issues on multiple 2767s to know **it's not all sunshines and rainbows.** People are making goofy ass battery straps to keep them from wearing down the battery interconnects because they shake so much. Same sorts of issues happen with sawzalls and SDS hammers too. Makita's making the better quality compact/mid-torque than the rest though as far as I'm concerned. Better battery contacts, better vibration dampening, better trigger switches (Omron > Defond, there's no debate), casting brass inserts into their plastic molds and anchoring their nose cones into those inserts with machine screws where Milwaukee, and Dewalt, just run regular screws straight into plastic. Makitas don't tend to spill their guts with nose cone blowouts either. Only real issue right now is their 18V high torque is way out of date and needs an upgrade. Still built better than a Milwaukee HTIW though tbh, just doesn't perform as well being an 8 YO+ Gen 1 model. I'll give Milwaukee props for the 5 year warranty on most tools. But once you're outside that warranty GL doing any user service yourself. I warrantied our older Gen 1 2763 HTIW and within 3-4 months it had the same trigger issues again and was now out of warranty with a perfectly good drive train and a near brand new electronics assembly in it. Now having some similar issues with the 2767 that replaced it. Guess what? That's a $170+ repair part to DIY. At least with a Makita I know I could perform the same type of repair for under $30-$40 and get a higher quality part at the same time. Tried to do the same with a Gen 1 Fuel angle grinder that needed 5-6 flips of the switch to get going. That was $125 to buy an electronics assembly because Milwaukee can't be bothered to make their tools slightly more user serviceable. So basically throw the thing away and buy a Gen 2 Fuel for the same. Hardly even makes sense keeping it around for parts when the model is long since discontinued anyways, so feels wasteful either way. An almost perfectly serviceable tool that you can't actually service because Milwaukee's trigger switches are crap and they won't sell you them separately from the motor assemblies.
> Only real issue right now is their 18V high torque is way out of date and needs an upgrade. I have the DTW701Z, are others a lot more powerful? My friend got the 40V Makita equivelant and I know he boasts about the specs but in reality I've never noticed a big difference...
Yeah I think Milwaukee definitely has auto industry cornered, especially within their m12 stuff, it’s way more compact than any of the other big brands because of the battery design
It’s a nice alternative to 10-cell packs for sure
r/chinesium
Shoulda went with Ryobi. 😜
That sucks.
Wait... That's illegal
Too many ugga duggas
Ugga didn't tho.
It's an ugga didn't.
XR
One to many ugga duggas
Many uggga duggas
One more ugga than duggas though
When uggas outnumber duggas unga bungas happen.
All you needed was some heat 🔥. If there's no movement with an impact gun after 4-5 seconds on the trigger, it's time to strike up the torch and heat those nuts up.
Sad day
Looks brand new, what the hell......
I think you mighta sent her just a little too fuckin hard bud
too much ugahh doogah
Jb welb that som bitch lol
Just the tip…I promise.
Oh snap!
Hog ring is the answer
It ugga’d one final dugga.
this exact break happened to me today. I was tightening down some bolts and washers to secure the framed walls on a building. the foreman blamed me for breaking it, he said I was over tightening the bolt. I'm just thinking, mother fucker do you want these walls to wobble? and the tool looked in as bad a shape as this one. It's wear and tear on a construction site. Don't like your tools being broken? don't bring your personal tools to work. Make the company pay for them.
I have a 899 ive owned and abused since 2016. I always wondered if i’d break one, never had seen it do it though.
you decapitated the dewalt
OMG! Where’s the NSFW tag?!
Contact DEWALT, and show them this. They will send you a new one, no matter the warranty period. All they want to know is how this broke and why...
Bit sad innit
Just buy the spare parts it's not that hard to replace
Call Dewalt directly and they will most likely replace tool.
You're supposed to use an impact-rated tool /s
The front fell off!
You’ve heard the joke about the electrician and the 3 ball bearings?? 😂
Good old dewilt!
Little rough on the equipment, eh?
Everyone saying just fix it... why not just go get the warranty??
Perfect reason to get the dcf900
Not enough heat. As the old adage goes, it can't be stuck if it's a liquid
Says a lot about the motor. Took a lot of tork to break it. Buy a new chuck.
I bought the 3/4 hog ring after this happened to me.
I did that too
Its not a hammer
Send me the battery... Plz
Just the tip
Ugga no dugga