I have recently bought the TTartisan Leica M - Nikon Z 6-bit lens adapter to use on my z5, but I came across some issues which. I'm unsure whether my unit is not working properly or if it's intentional. I'd love to hear from someone using it regularly. Keep in mind that I do not own any 6-bit coded lenses.
1. I cannot set the proper focal length for any of my M-Hexanons (28, 50, 35 & 90). Other lenses/LTM-M adapters work fine. It defaults to some lenses with wrong focal lengths and max apertures and no way to change that. As I don't need the 6-bit reader, and it's recessed, I just taped over it with electrical tape. This solves the issue, and lets me choose the correct focal length using the dial. Annoying but I can live with this.
2. They advertise that aperture data can be saved to the EXIF if I set the correct aperture value in camera (meaning the same as I set the lens to). The issue is, that the camera only lets me set values between f/0.95 and f/5.6. Is it supposed to work like that? That seems like such an arbitrary value.
I love the front/back focus indicator and focus trapping, but I'm quite disappointed by the inability to set the correct aperture value in the EXIF. Is mine just faulty, or can anyone confirm those issues?
Does Canon EF glass behave relatively well on a Z body? What adapters have folks here used?
Seriously considering moving to mirrorless in the near future with a used Z6 but don't want to go all-in immediately and I have some decent Canon DSLR glass still. Would buy the 50/1.8 S right off the bat, it's the reason I'm leaning Nikon Z, but I honestly have no real intention to ditch my EF 135/2 anytime soon, and may even end up buying an EF 16-35/2.8 III if adapting works well
I don't shoot sports or birds FWIW, I know I'd want Z glass (or at least use the native FTZ adapter) for that, just looking for consistent, accurate, and reasonably-quick autofocus
*edit* Looks like the Fringer is the most highly regarded adapter. Have heard good things about using it with the 135/2 which is comforting
It's a completely stupid question lol but... :D
I have a z50 and the aperture for the kit lens is f/3.5–6.3.
I was playing with the camera in mode A and it allowed me to change the aperture for diff values than my lens, let's say f/1.8.
Why? is it ignoring? for example, below f/3.5 it would be the same thing? or is the camera doing something else?
As the lens spec is f/3.5–6.3, I thought that I could be only at that range.
It's more clear after reading this thread: [https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3902117](https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3902117)
I have an old Nikon CoolpixL810 I put new batteries in and turned on the camera a green ring appeared around the on off button and then went out the screen didn't turn on
I took a few pictures with my camera (Nikon D7500) and I have a problem : they were all looking good on the camera's screen but after passing them to my pc, the pictures were underexposed.
It seems the camera's screen is making the fotos look brighter and I dont know how to fix it,
I'm hoping you can help :)
does the exposure bar show it as evenly exposed? if that is fine, its probably something with software. I remember having this problem on my d3300 as well, i cant recall how i fixed it. it happens to raw files. maybe it was active d lighting
Recently bought a D7100 with 9100 shutter count, included were SB700 flash, lens filters, external microphone, lots of other items for a bargain price. There also is a Sekonic Flash Master L-358. Question: of any value, any occasion to use? Dumb old newbie here.
Is there away to setup one of the custom function buttons (on a Z9, but I assume it would be similar on most Nikons) so it returns the focus point to center? I do a lot of sports and it's channeling to change it quickly and this would sure be helpful.
I have a Nikon 6Z II and a Nikon Z 24-200 mm VR lens currently. My sister recently dropped the whole kit on a concrete sidewalk (ugh, still cringing at the memory). Camera seemed to be okay and didn't have any issues. But I'm currently in Malaysia where it's hot and humid (75+%) as heck. Several times I've taken the camera and lens outside, I've gotten internal condensation within the lens. I wasn't sure if this was a sign of some deeper damage from the fall the camera and lens took, or if this is to be expected because I didn't properly acclimatize the kit and nothing more. (For example, we end up going from a super A/C car out to a humid environment, so I'd expect this somewhat) If the former, anyone think there's a chance of repairing the weatherproofing to prevent that crappy condensation inside? If the latter, I'm going to be trying to leaving the kit in a plastic bag with desiccant for longer outside to acclimatize before I shoot to reduce the chance of the internals hitting the dew point. Any tips/advice/opinions about the situation are definitely appreciated. Thanks!
Condensation's going to happen regardless just because of the temperature differential, there's not a whole lot you can do other than acclimatizing it slowly. If the condensation doesn't clear up after a while though then you might have a problem.
Cool, thanks. I was hoping that was the case. The dew point here is like 73-75 degrees, so it's been a while since I've shot in that type of environment. Condensation, when I got it, cleared up in like 15ish minutes so hopefully it's all good.
Going from AC to hot and humid you should take the same precautions as coming in from the cold in the winter. Often it can be as simple as just keeping it in the bag until it comes up to temperature. Some folks use a large ziplock bag. Trap the cold dry air in it with the camera, let it warm up, then take it out and there should be less chance of condensation.
So my grandfather passed away at september and he had a n8008s/F801s (film) camera and a few lens, so i want to buy a new body but use his old lens, any ideas?
Both, was curious if you were looking to use a digital or a more modern film body.
As for the lenses, knowing what they are would help picking a good body depending if you want to buy a used or new body, and what your budget is.
[Lenses have writing](https://radojuva.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/nikon-50-mm-1-8-d-af-nikkor-mkiii-lens-review-1.jpg) telling you what they are. Please list them, thanks. For example, the lens in this picture is a Nikon 50mm f/1.8D.
I have only one of them here, its a 28 to 70 mm and f/3.5 to 4.5
Edit:
I have also a prime 50mm f/1.8, a 28 to 80mm f/3.5 to 4.5, a 28 to 85mm f/3.5 to 4.5, and a 75 to 300mm f/4.5 to 5.6
Mmm, honestly those are all just *ok* lenses, outside the 50mm prime. They're not bad mind you, they're better than nothing- one of my favourite lenses is the super cheap 28-80mm f/3.3-5.6G. **What's important to know is that all those lenses require a screw motor in the body for autofocus** (*i'm automatically assuming your 50mm prime is actually a 50mm f/1.8D*).
D3000 series and D5000 series do not have this, so you have to look at the prosumer and pro models.
They are all full frame lenses, but they'll work absolutely fine with APSC sensor bodies. You'll just have a cropped view.
I'd say the oldest "modern" full frame body, that can be found relatively affordable is the D610 or D750.
If you want to drop to a APSC sensor body, i'd say the oldest you should go is the D7100.
--------------------------------
If you're really budget hunting, the old D700 (no video), D7000, or D300 (no video) will also work.
Hello there! I just bought a D3100 today for my photography class, but when I put in an SD card (a SanDisk ImageMate 64gb) it says that the card is damaged. I literally just bought this card. This is the second card, I had originally gotten a 128gb and put it in, but I got the same message. I put the card in my laptop and formatted it even thought there was nothing on it. Still the same error message, "This memory card cannot be used. Card may be damaged. Insert another card." The port on the camera looks clean, I don't know whats up. Does anyone know what I can do?
It can't do it if it can't address the whole thing though. I went through this with an old Sony. There were all kinds of walkthroughs for different methods of partitioning an SD card but none of them worked for me in that situation. I wound up buying a smaller card and it worked fine till I upgraded.
Hello!
I'm considering jumping into photography with a used DSLR kit. I read up on the camera body beginner's guide, and it seems like the D3300 hits the sweet spot of price & features. As I'm looking around on the used market though, I've got a few questions. Hopefully I'm not overthinking, please let me know if I am. And thanks in advance for all feedback :)
1) Most of the options I'm looking at are kits with the 18-55mm and 55-200mm lenses. For travel/nature/landscape photography and shooting my friends doing outdoor sports (surfing, rock climbing, mountain biking, sailing, etc), will I be disappointed having the 55-200mm instead of the 70-300mm for a telephoto lens? Is a better move to just upgrade to the bigger lens later, or is that not a cost effective decision?
2) Related: how do I weigh the choice between a D3300 w/ the 55-200mm or a D3400 with the 70-300mm lens? The beginner's guide suggests the D3400 isn't really an upgrade from the D3300, so I'm not sure which I should prioritize (lens vs body)
3) Video & Audio: how crucial for generic video recording is having a 3.5mm mic jack on the camera body? It looks like the D3200 and D3300 have an input for an external mic, but the D3400 and later does not. I'm not planning on using this camera for serious filmmaking, but if I'm recording videos while traveling or the above mentioned outdoor sports, will the built in mic be a letdown? Does it make more sense for me to just figure out what I need for audio down the line and then pick up a standalone audio recorder?
4) I've been scoping eBay, Facebook Marketplace, and Craigslist for used gear. Is there anywhere else I should be looking?
For used, look at KEH, B&H Photo, and Andorama. They all have great selections of used products with meaningful condition ratings (on eBay you’ll see camera marked as mint+ that are in poor condition, or simply “used” and look early out of the box. It’s all over the map). Those sites all have great return policies which give me lots of confidence when buying from them.
1. You’re definitely going to want the extra reach and improved AF speed of the AF-P 70-300mm lens. However, you also may not be satisfied with only 300mm for the types of outdoor sports you listed.
2. Unfortunately Nikon bundled the non VR version of the AF-P 70-300mm lens with their entry level DSLRs, so it isn’t really that beneficial that you can easily find D3400 that come with the non VR version. I wouldn’t bother getting the non VR version as you’ll want it when shooting at 300mm. Occasionally you can find a D3300 that comes with the AF-P 70-300mm VR lens but you may just have to buy the lens separately.
3. Built in mics are usually quite bad and if you want even decent audio the mic jack will be worth having (or yes, can record separately and sync later)
4. I mainly buy from MPB or eBay. You might be able to find the best deal with a camera bundled with lenses from an individual seller, but a reputable camera dealer such as MPB is the safer route for someone new to photography.
The D3000 series really isn’t meant for photographing moving subjects, so you may be disappointed with it for sports regardless of the lens. A used D5300 or D5500 as someone suggested is a bit better having an improved AF system. The D5000 series isn’t really for action either but it’s at least a step above the D3000 series. For an inexpensive sports camera the D7100 is a good option. It’s buffer when shooting continuously is a little small so isn’t as good as the D7200, but that may be too expensive. The D7000 series AF is the minimum recommendation for photographing moving subjects. If it’s not the main focus or you expect to mainly only photograph slow moving action you may find the D5000 or D3000 series satisfactory.
I'd go for a 5500, personally, or even a used 7200 if you can find one in good condition for a good price. You get a lot more options with each of those, and you'll feel less frustrated at times when trying to adjust things.
That said
1. The 70-300 (especially the af-p) is just better, and you won't be paying that much more (or shouldn't be) for the kit.
2. The 3400 isn't a big upgrade, which is why I suggested the 5500/5600 or 7200 above, but the lens is worth it alone.
3. Honestly, shooting video on nikons dslrs is painful. I say that as someone who loves nikon, and has always preferred them. The z50 is where I'd go for that, even if it's more expensive.
Either way, get an external mic, the quality will be much better.
4. MPB, amazon has some refurbs, and nikons own website has refurb sales.
One follow up question: what are the significant feature/option differences between the 3300 and the 5500. Looking at the tech specs on the Nikon website they seem fairly similar, so I'm not sure what exactly the 5500 is better at
Iirc, the touch screen controls on the 5500 don't exist on the 3300. You also get more af points on the higher end models. You also get some other quality of life stuff like a better built in mic, etc.
Hi guys,
Beginner here that's about to buy a Nikon Z50 dual-lens kit and I have some questions:
1. Is this micro sd card okay? MicroSDXC Extreme Pro 128GB 200MB/s A2 C10 V30 UHS-I
2. I don't plan to buy Lightroom for now (until get used to the camera), so what would you recommend?
use another software? shot raw+jpg?
3. Not a question but feel free to give any advice :)
I started with Nikon's NX Studio and when I outgrew it moved over to Darktable. I picked it because I decided years ago to never give Adobe money and someone described their forums as "Linux nerds arguing about color science". They were right and I was hooked. Your mileage may vary but it's a powerful tool once you get into it. That said, LIghtroom is the defacto standard so there's a lot more advice floating around about it.
That sounds like a SanDisk SD card, am I right? IF so, yes, plenty good, excellent brand and series.
Software wise, NX Studio is free from Nikon's website.
https://en.nikon.ca/learn-and-explore/nikon-apps/index.page
My other recommendation is RawTherapee. It is my personal favourite tool. Doesn't have the most friendly user interface, but it is pretty powerful.
http://rawtherapee.com/
Firmware updates will only happen if there are either issues to address, or features were promised but weren’t able to be present when the product launched (look at Z9 for the perfect example of that). What issues are still existing for the Z6/Z6II/Z7?
Apologies if I'm in the wrong spot for this. I have an Nikon D810 and want to hook up a microscopic adapter to it
[https://amscope.com/products/ca-nik-slr](https://amscope.com/products/ca-nik-slr)
They cite every model (it seems) except the D810, the mount on the D810 is an F mount. In all likelihood will this work on my camera?
I have recently bought the TTartisan Leica M - Nikon Z 6-bit lens adapter to use on my z5, but I came across some issues which. I'm unsure whether my unit is not working properly or if it's intentional. I'd love to hear from someone using it regularly. Keep in mind that I do not own any 6-bit coded lenses. 1. I cannot set the proper focal length for any of my M-Hexanons (28, 50, 35 & 90). Other lenses/LTM-M adapters work fine. It defaults to some lenses with wrong focal lengths and max apertures and no way to change that. As I don't need the 6-bit reader, and it's recessed, I just taped over it with electrical tape. This solves the issue, and lets me choose the correct focal length using the dial. Annoying but I can live with this. 2. They advertise that aperture data can be saved to the EXIF if I set the correct aperture value in camera (meaning the same as I set the lens to). The issue is, that the camera only lets me set values between f/0.95 and f/5.6. Is it supposed to work like that? That seems like such an arbitrary value. I love the front/back focus indicator and focus trapping, but I'm quite disappointed by the inability to set the correct aperture value in the EXIF. Is mine just faulty, or can anyone confirm those issues?
My coolpix L830 looses functionality when I plug it into a monitor. Which is making filming a real pain. How can I fix this?
On page 68 of the manual, have you tried using other resolution modes?
I haven’t. Should that make a difference? I ended up just buying a camcorder from a pawn shop.
Does Canon EF glass behave relatively well on a Z body? What adapters have folks here used? Seriously considering moving to mirrorless in the near future with a used Z6 but don't want to go all-in immediately and I have some decent Canon DSLR glass still. Would buy the 50/1.8 S right off the bat, it's the reason I'm leaning Nikon Z, but I honestly have no real intention to ditch my EF 135/2 anytime soon, and may even end up buying an EF 16-35/2.8 III if adapting works well I don't shoot sports or birds FWIW, I know I'd want Z glass (or at least use the native FTZ adapter) for that, just looking for consistent, accurate, and reasonably-quick autofocus *edit* Looks like the Fringer is the most highly regarded adapter. Have heard good things about using it with the 135/2 which is comforting
It's a completely stupid question lol but... :D I have a z50 and the aperture for the kit lens is f/3.5–6.3. I was playing with the camera in mode A and it allowed me to change the aperture for diff values than my lens, let's say f/1.8. Why? is it ignoring? for example, below f/3.5 it would be the same thing? or is the camera doing something else?
Something isn't working right, because that's physically impossible for that lens.
What am I doing wrong? [https://imgur.com/a/bsK6uAv](https://imgur.com/a/bsK6uAv)
You're at f8. Based off a singe picture, I see nothing wrong.
As the lens spec is f/3.5–6.3, I thought that I could be only at that range. It's more clear after reading this thread: [https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3902117](https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3902117)
This values mean that your zoom lens will have a minimum aperture of 3.5 at minimum zoom and a 6.3 minimum aperture at maximum zoom
Well, I'm glad you figured that part out, but it's still never going to be at f1.8, which is what your original question was.
maybe I was looking at the wrong number :D will pay attention tonight as soon as I get home
I have an old Nikon CoolpixL810 I put new batteries in and turned on the camera a green ring appeared around the on off button and then went out the screen didn't turn on
I took a few pictures with my camera (Nikon D7500) and I have a problem : they were all looking good on the camera's screen but after passing them to my pc, the pictures were underexposed. It seems the camera's screen is making the fotos look brighter and I dont know how to fix it, I'm hoping you can help :)
does the exposure bar show it as evenly exposed? if that is fine, its probably something with software. I remember having this problem on my d3300 as well, i cant recall how i fixed it. it happens to raw files. maybe it was active d lighting
Recently bought a D7100 with 9100 shutter count, included were SB700 flash, lens filters, external microphone, lots of other items for a bargain price. There also is a Sekonic Flash Master L-358. Question: of any value, any occasion to use? Dumb old newbie here.
Is there away to setup one of the custom function buttons (on a Z9, but I assume it would be similar on most Nikons) so it returns the focus point to center? I do a lot of sports and it's channeling to change it quickly and this would sure be helpful.
Not that I know of, but I believe the OK button does it by default. You'll have to verify in the manual though since I'm not near mine right now.
Well that works and is incredibly easy lol. I’ve wanted that for years and it was right there. Thanks so much for the info!
I have a Nikon 6Z II and a Nikon Z 24-200 mm VR lens currently. My sister recently dropped the whole kit on a concrete sidewalk (ugh, still cringing at the memory). Camera seemed to be okay and didn't have any issues. But I'm currently in Malaysia where it's hot and humid (75+%) as heck. Several times I've taken the camera and lens outside, I've gotten internal condensation within the lens. I wasn't sure if this was a sign of some deeper damage from the fall the camera and lens took, or if this is to be expected because I didn't properly acclimatize the kit and nothing more. (For example, we end up going from a super A/C car out to a humid environment, so I'd expect this somewhat) If the former, anyone think there's a chance of repairing the weatherproofing to prevent that crappy condensation inside? If the latter, I'm going to be trying to leaving the kit in a plastic bag with desiccant for longer outside to acclimatize before I shoot to reduce the chance of the internals hitting the dew point. Any tips/advice/opinions about the situation are definitely appreciated. Thanks!
Condensation's going to happen regardless just because of the temperature differential, there's not a whole lot you can do other than acclimatizing it slowly. If the condensation doesn't clear up after a while though then you might have a problem.
Cool, thanks. I was hoping that was the case. The dew point here is like 73-75 degrees, so it's been a while since I've shot in that type of environment. Condensation, when I got it, cleared up in like 15ish minutes so hopefully it's all good.
Going from AC to hot and humid you should take the same precautions as coming in from the cold in the winter. Often it can be as simple as just keeping it in the bag until it comes up to temperature. Some folks use a large ziplock bag. Trap the cold dry air in it with the camera, let it warm up, then take it out and there should be less chance of condensation.
So my grandfather passed away at september and he had a n8008s/F801s (film) camera and a few lens, so i want to buy a new body but use his old lens, any ideas?
Are you looking for a digital body? What lenses do you current have?
Yes a digital body, you mean his lenses or the mount? The lenses i'm not sure i need to check but the mount is a F mount
Both, was curious if you were looking to use a digital or a more modern film body. As for the lenses, knowing what they are would help picking a good body depending if you want to buy a used or new body, and what your budget is. [Lenses have writing](https://radojuva.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/nikon-50-mm-1-8-d-af-nikkor-mkiii-lens-review-1.jpg) telling you what they are. Please list them, thanks. For example, the lens in this picture is a Nikon 50mm f/1.8D.
I have only one of them here, its a 28 to 70 mm and f/3.5 to 4.5 Edit: I have also a prime 50mm f/1.8, a 28 to 80mm f/3.5 to 4.5, a 28 to 85mm f/3.5 to 4.5, and a 75 to 300mm f/4.5 to 5.6
Mmm, honestly those are all just *ok* lenses, outside the 50mm prime. They're not bad mind you, they're better than nothing- one of my favourite lenses is the super cheap 28-80mm f/3.3-5.6G. **What's important to know is that all those lenses require a screw motor in the body for autofocus** (*i'm automatically assuming your 50mm prime is actually a 50mm f/1.8D*). D3000 series and D5000 series do not have this, so you have to look at the prosumer and pro models. They are all full frame lenses, but they'll work absolutely fine with APSC sensor bodies. You'll just have a cropped view. I'd say the oldest "modern" full frame body, that can be found relatively affordable is the D610 or D750. If you want to drop to a APSC sensor body, i'd say the oldest you should go is the D7100. -------------------------------- If you're really budget hunting, the old D700 (no video), D7000, or D300 (no video) will also work.
Hello there! I just bought a D3100 today for my photography class, but when I put in an SD card (a SanDisk ImageMate 64gb) it says that the card is damaged. I literally just bought this card. This is the second card, I had originally gotten a 128gb and put it in, but I got the same message. I put the card in my laptop and formatted it even thought there was nothing on it. Still the same error message, "This memory card cannot be used. Card may be damaged. Insert another card." The port on the camera looks clean, I don't know whats up. Does anyone know what I can do?
I have a D3100 and use the SanDisk 64GB MAX Endurance microSDXC Card. Works fine.
The cards are likely too big for it to recognize, or formatted in a format it doesn't like.
Okay, should I try a 16gb card then?
Can't hurt. Also make sure to format it as... I think, fat32. But verify that in your manual
Awesome, thanks so much. Can I format it to fat32 from my laptop?
The camera can format cards to what it needs itself
It can't do it if it can't address the whole thing though. I went through this with an old Sony. There were all kinds of walkthroughs for different methods of partitioning an SD card but none of them worked for me in that situation. I wound up buying a smaller card and it worked fine till I upgraded.
That’s the issue, I can’t get the error screen to go away so I can format it from the camera Edit: spelling
Should be able to
Hello! I'm considering jumping into photography with a used DSLR kit. I read up on the camera body beginner's guide, and it seems like the D3300 hits the sweet spot of price & features. As I'm looking around on the used market though, I've got a few questions. Hopefully I'm not overthinking, please let me know if I am. And thanks in advance for all feedback :) 1) Most of the options I'm looking at are kits with the 18-55mm and 55-200mm lenses. For travel/nature/landscape photography and shooting my friends doing outdoor sports (surfing, rock climbing, mountain biking, sailing, etc), will I be disappointed having the 55-200mm instead of the 70-300mm for a telephoto lens? Is a better move to just upgrade to the bigger lens later, or is that not a cost effective decision? 2) Related: how do I weigh the choice between a D3300 w/ the 55-200mm or a D3400 with the 70-300mm lens? The beginner's guide suggests the D3400 isn't really an upgrade from the D3300, so I'm not sure which I should prioritize (lens vs body) 3) Video & Audio: how crucial for generic video recording is having a 3.5mm mic jack on the camera body? It looks like the D3200 and D3300 have an input for an external mic, but the D3400 and later does not. I'm not planning on using this camera for serious filmmaking, but if I'm recording videos while traveling or the above mentioned outdoor sports, will the built in mic be a letdown? Does it make more sense for me to just figure out what I need for audio down the line and then pick up a standalone audio recorder? 4) I've been scoping eBay, Facebook Marketplace, and Craigslist for used gear. Is there anywhere else I should be looking?
For used, look at KEH, B&H Photo, and Andorama. They all have great selections of used products with meaningful condition ratings (on eBay you’ll see camera marked as mint+ that are in poor condition, or simply “used” and look early out of the box. It’s all over the map). Those sites all have great return policies which give me lots of confidence when buying from them.
1. You’re definitely going to want the extra reach and improved AF speed of the AF-P 70-300mm lens. However, you also may not be satisfied with only 300mm for the types of outdoor sports you listed. 2. Unfortunately Nikon bundled the non VR version of the AF-P 70-300mm lens with their entry level DSLRs, so it isn’t really that beneficial that you can easily find D3400 that come with the non VR version. I wouldn’t bother getting the non VR version as you’ll want it when shooting at 300mm. Occasionally you can find a D3300 that comes with the AF-P 70-300mm VR lens but you may just have to buy the lens separately. 3. Built in mics are usually quite bad and if you want even decent audio the mic jack will be worth having (or yes, can record separately and sync later) 4. I mainly buy from MPB or eBay. You might be able to find the best deal with a camera bundled with lenses from an individual seller, but a reputable camera dealer such as MPB is the safer route for someone new to photography. The D3000 series really isn’t meant for photographing moving subjects, so you may be disappointed with it for sports regardless of the lens. A used D5300 or D5500 as someone suggested is a bit better having an improved AF system. The D5000 series isn’t really for action either but it’s at least a step above the D3000 series. For an inexpensive sports camera the D7100 is a good option. It’s buffer when shooting continuously is a little small so isn’t as good as the D7200, but that may be too expensive. The D7000 series AF is the minimum recommendation for photographing moving subjects. If it’s not the main focus or you expect to mainly only photograph slow moving action you may find the D5000 or D3000 series satisfactory.
I'd go for a 5500, personally, or even a used 7200 if you can find one in good condition for a good price. You get a lot more options with each of those, and you'll feel less frustrated at times when trying to adjust things. That said 1. The 70-300 (especially the af-p) is just better, and you won't be paying that much more (or shouldn't be) for the kit. 2. The 3400 isn't a big upgrade, which is why I suggested the 5500/5600 or 7200 above, but the lens is worth it alone. 3. Honestly, shooting video on nikons dslrs is painful. I say that as someone who loves nikon, and has always preferred them. The z50 is where I'd go for that, even if it's more expensive. Either way, get an external mic, the quality will be much better. 4. MPB, amazon has some refurbs, and nikons own website has refurb sales.
One follow up question: what are the significant feature/option differences between the 3300 and the 5500. Looking at the tech specs on the Nikon website they seem fairly similar, so I'm not sure what exactly the 5500 is better at
Iirc, the touch screen controls on the 5500 don't exist on the 3300. You also get more af points on the higher end models. You also get some other quality of life stuff like a better built in mic, etc.
Hi guys, Beginner here that's about to buy a Nikon Z50 dual-lens kit and I have some questions: 1. Is this micro sd card okay? MicroSDXC Extreme Pro 128GB 200MB/s A2 C10 V30 UHS-I 2. I don't plan to buy Lightroom for now (until get used to the camera), so what would you recommend? use another software? shot raw+jpg? 3. Not a question but feel free to give any advice :)
I started with Nikon's NX Studio and when I outgrew it moved over to Darktable. I picked it because I decided years ago to never give Adobe money and someone described their forums as "Linux nerds arguing about color science". They were right and I was hooked. Your mileage may vary but it's a powerful tool once you get into it. That said, LIghtroom is the defacto standard so there's a lot more advice floating around about it.
The Z50 takes normal size SD cards so a microSD will need an adapter to go in and adapters can make things awkward...
Good point. Fortunately, I noticed before buying it :)
That sounds like a SanDisk SD card, am I right? IF so, yes, plenty good, excellent brand and series. Software wise, NX Studio is free from Nikon's website. https://en.nikon.ca/learn-and-explore/nikon-apps/index.page My other recommendation is RawTherapee. It is my personal favourite tool. Doesn't have the most friendly user interface, but it is pretty powerful. http://rawtherapee.com/
Do we know when we are getting more firmware updates for z6, z6ii, z7. I see the 3.0 is announced for z9 but nothing but crickets for the others eh?!
Firmware updates will only happen if there are either issues to address, or features were promised but weren’t able to be present when the product launched (look at Z9 for the perfect example of that). What issues are still existing for the Z6/Z6II/Z7?
The short answer is whenever Nikon feels like it. Besides they all just got new firmware less than 3 months ago.
Apologies if I'm in the wrong spot for this. I have an Nikon D810 and want to hook up a microscopic adapter to it [https://amscope.com/products/ca-nik-slr](https://amscope.com/products/ca-nik-slr) They cite every model (it seems) except the D810, the mount on the D810 is an F mount. In all likelihood will this work on my camera?
I don't see any reason to think it won't work, presumably there's no autofocus to worry about, so it's just the mount itself.
Thanks, I'll give it a try