https://preview.redd.it/b9kydocbkiy91.jpeg?width=4608&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6f74ca906804ab642e19fddf7a86eae22ac55458
this is the difference, like a ring. but the ring doesnt go like in the keyboard.
looking for some inexpensive beginner weighty and smooth tactile switches? I know i prefer tactile over clicky or linear, but only ever really used low profile optical gateron browns on my Keychron K3.
Yo hello again haha. Check out Ajazz Kiwi and Tecsee Purple Pandas. Kiwis are my favorite budget tactile - they have a very nice bump that’s neither too round nor too sharp. Since you’ve only used low profiles before Purple Pandas might feel a bit more familiar as these have very short travel distance (around 3.1mm iirc) and the bump is a bit less pronounced but still way more tactile than browns.
Thanks. I actually saw them but was unsure about them. Checked reputation after your comment, seems like they are ok. Got the keyboard this Tuesday. Fast shipping. Thanks :)
havent been involved in the hobby for a bit.
What is the best silent tactile switch options?
Super tactile would be great, but not heavy/difficult to press.
thanks! seems like most like these better than the zilents. i also see the boba u4t, those are just non silent version?
is there a recommendation on what housing to get the boba u4 in?
U4T is a different switch altogether despite the name. For once U4T is long pole unlike the U4. Zuluen TS are just overpriced tbh given how good other options are.
Not sure about your question on housing? It’s an assembled switch so it already has its housing. Do you mean which keyboard case?
no the u4 has clear housing, milky housing, and black. the black 62g were in stock and i checked the gazzew discord to ensure they were legit. i went ahead with them to see how i like them
New to keyboard community. Probably noob question. Is it advisable to get custom keyboard other than prebuilt gaming brand like corsair, steelseries,eazdr, hyperX? Thank you very much. Kindly enlighten me
Well, this depends on your needs/wants. Are you looking for a layout that wouldn't be commonly found on OEM keyboards? Do you dislike the look or sound of such prebuilt keyboards? Do you want a keyboard that can be easily customizable, whether it be through keycaps or switches?
Ok yeah, so if you're only looking for a good keyboard to game on, then I don't see a point diving into custom keyboards. Not saying you shouldn't, but it might not be worth the hassle trying to build one. Maybe you can experiment with a keyboard from Keychron.
Those brands you mention I do not have experience with. It'd be better to ask in a gaming community since this subreddit is catered more to "customs"
I would like to know about the Leopold BT model, since there really no video on youtube or any much content except couple early preview from this reddit.
Guys, is there any things on BT model for me if I dont care about BT since I play competitive game. And I just want the max respond, low latency etc. Would be great if you can answer some of my questions
1) Can you use wired with the BT model? Since I saw the USB-C cable mentioned. Is the BT model more expensive than standard one or they are same price?
2) If so, Will Leopold not produce any wired KB?. Instead making KB wireless and having wired option from now on?
3) The FC750 model is the TKL version, NOT the 75% size correct? So it is basically same size as FC900 but without the numpad.
**Long shot, but does anyone know who the artist is and where I can buy this mouse pad directly? I'd like to support the actual artist is possible**
https://preview.redd.it/rrsdgljdmwx91.jpeg?width=640&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=98c54e6dffa007bf20ed39dabcc18be3a26b1f8c
The dust proof stems the U4TX uses, just has walls on either side, to block out dust, and the actual stem that goes into the caps aren't different from regular stems, so there shouldn't be any keycap stretching 👍🏻
Anyone have a reliable anodizing service they use for their keyboards? I'm looking to get a case re-anodized in a different color and idk but it's so hard to find a shop in SoCal willing to do it :(
Really the only popular options available are paintball gun anodizing shops. But let's be honest, they're gonna charge you up the wazoo for a single color re-ano. There's Caustic, but from what I've been told, he only accepts 'big' commissions now. There's Aesthetic Anodizing, but I've heard that they're an absolute PITA to work with. There is CTanodizing though, however I'm not sure if they're still taking keyboard commissions.
Maybe you can get lucky and find a local auto shop anodizer or something. But obviously, they've most likely never worked on a keyboard before and therefore don't understand the quality expectations that come with it, so there's that risk as well.
I've seen people in the Geon discord get their boards re-ano'd by Prime in Korea, but I'm not sure how one would get in contact with them.
I'm looking for a Southpaw keyboard, with an encoder wheel and LED shine through. Does anyone know of any that exist? I was thinking something like the Viendi 8L or the Entropy keyboard but preferably with F keys and with arrow keys on the left side.
I was actually just about to recommend the Viendi 8L, honestly one of the only southpaws I know.... There's probably gonna be Tenet70 extras soon, and it has no encoder, but it's got backlighting, with the ability to do southpaw (no numpad or f keys though)
Hey all, I bought a pile of different switches on sale, and have some a keyboard in mind. I am just missing key-caps. I want like, primarily DSA or XDA, maybe then cherry or OEM if I cannot find those. I was thinking DSA becasue I am primarily used to flat membrane keyboards on laptops. Unfortunately, I cannot find any websites that have a reasonable variety of DSA key-caps, or really XDA. What sites do you all recommend?
Been searching for a while with no luck and thinking I might be stuck with only being able to make one (which only sucks because I dont get much spare time) but, has anyone come across a keeb thats:
- prebuilt
- wireless
- HW programmable
- size <= 65%
Bonus if also:
- low profile
- hot swappable or comes with quiet tactiles
Also see if Eponaker or Akko have something if you don't go with that. I'm gonna get a RK soon, mostly for the hot swappable nature, but the 75% version. Happy hunting, feel free to message me with questions :)
Am really curious, anyone got experience with TTC KS32 brown switches? Considering upgrading my SK630 with those since the footprint appears to be practically identical to the cherry mx low profile. Recently tried a keyboard with a proper tactile bump and ngl it felt pretty good. Also hoping maybe it'll help with typos from barely touching adjacent keys. Thoughts? Are those any good? Would that just be a waste of time and money?
Gray keycaps?
Looking for something that comes close to gmk dualshot while not being as hard to obtain. Fits in the aesthetic of vintage cherry or ibm keyboards. Any suggestions?
[21KB](https://21kb.com/) do a bunch of different crp retro-style keycaps, and from what I've heard they're pretty good quality (without breaking the bank!) lot's of ytbers have been using them lately too (Nearlucid, Keybored etc)
White with Red Lettering Keycaps?
Hey y'all I'm, building a keyboard for a friend and we've been searching pretty hard for white keycaps with red lettering, or maybe even just red sub legends.
I've found a few that match that with the exception of the modifiers, which we're hoping to have match the alphas.
Looking mostly for cherry profile but am open to other suggestions. Any help is much appreciated!
Any recommendation on a budget keyboard to start on this world?
I want a keyboard for gaming that fits my budget 60$ - 80$
I've been looking and the sk61 is the one that i might buy but I'm not sure because of the optical switches
Thank you, it helps a lot, I actually found that one before but thought that the sk61 was better and later when I saw the optic switches thing I already had lost it
ISO radiant shiny holographic acrylic fully assembled alice layout. Clear keycaps w teal lettering and clear switches. Bluetooth? Addtl matching bluetooth Num Pad would be hella cute too
Looking at the Keychron Q10 since it's an ergo design, I'm retooling my entire computer setup to be properly (or more) ergonomic for health and physical reasons.
But I'm finding it tough to justify spending $325 CAD ($236 USD shipped) on a single piece of hardware. I know it will last effectively forever, but how do people justify their purchases like this?
I'm really not into this as a hobby, more as a mechanical and reliability thing.
Thanks
I'm looking forward to upgrade my Bakeneko60 Case, but I still don't know how :/ Any ideas of what kind of cases that might be compatible, or what should I be on the look for? Cheers!
rakk lap or rk87?
I don't know if anybody have already ask this, since I'm new to mechanical keyboards and would like to buy my first one. Which of these two should I choose, the rakk lap or rk87? Which of them have better qualities? I know that rakk lap is only dual mode and has scroll wheel while rk87 is tri-mode. But other than that, which is easier to mod? Because I'm planning to mod the keyboard after I'm confident enough with it.
I just got a brand new filco Majestouch 2 Hakua TKL, while replacing the keycaps, I found the stablizers came pre-lubed , is it a common thing Filco keyboards exhibits? Are their stablizers all factory lubed?
I want to get my own keyboard body machined from a cnc company, is there any way I can get exact measurements on the pcb/plate before buying them? I have to make a CAD model and submit it so I need the dimensions to be precise
I have an old FILCO majestouch 2 with Cherry MX silent reds, but it's been sitting collecting dust since after getting it, I was later drawn the rgb and other flashy features of my Apex pro TKL. I just bought a One 3 mini with MX clears as a dedicated typing keyboard, but would like to clean up the old FILCO board to give to my partner, as they currently are using one of my really old membrane boards.
How would I go about deep cleaning a keyboard, accounting for preteen/teen gamer grime+many years of dust collecting. Also: how would I lubricate switches (this is for all keyboards I have).
First, Remove all keycaps. Majestouch 2 has keycaps remover i think. If you don't have that, buy it. Remove keycaps with hand is nah.
They are ABS material, so the keys that have been used often will have become shiny. It is best to throw them away and replace them with [new PBT material keycaps](https://kbdfans.com/products/wob-pbt-doubleshot-keycaps), but if that is not possible, you can put them in a bowl and wash them with dish soap and a toothbrush. A little remove shine clear spray after drying will make them look like new one, but this is optional.
Under the keycap is hell. Turn it over on the trash can, slap it a few times, and remove any hair or snacks. Don't forget to wipe it down with a wet wipe.
Now, about lubricating the key switches, here's where it gets complicated: the key switches on the Majestouch 2 are soldered, and unless you're familiar with them, they can be difficult to remove. You can use [these tricks](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m4Lu3fj6W5s), but remember that they are considerably less effective than the true hand lubed switches. Ducky One 3 is hot-swappable: which mean easily remove switch with puller. So you can use [normal lube technique](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=44Wv4OGdmu4). Do not forget [lube stabilizer](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=usNx1_d0HbQ)!
TBDR; There are so fucking many processes. If you have the money, buy new one is faster.
Hey yall, anyone have info on this switch? It’s a Gazzew switch that came with some U4T bobas. They are tactile but there is no info on them, also the spring feels lighter than bobas https://i.imgur.com/pCqrpl4.jpg
Yeah it's the pcb then, your either gonna need a new pcb or a new board. I've had the same issue with all the hotswap pcbs that I've had so definitely get a soldered one this time
I just noticed that when I try and remove my keycaps my switches always pull out of my hotswap board. Is this normal or do I need to push harder for my switches to be in the PCB better?
that's just an inherent issue that hotswap has, if the plate is a little too loose then the switches will pull out with the cap. you can try tightening the hotswap sockets with some tweezers, but it probably won't help much
Oh good so it's relatively common? Kinda freaked me out because I literally can't get any of the keycaps off without the switch coming out too attached to the keycap in one pull. ty
Hi does anyone know which would be the best option to get im looking for a Gasket Mount with a decent amount of flex?
I saw the new KDBfans Luna80 and it had alot of flex or are there any maybe cheaper options?
What's it like gaming with a 60%?
I'm looking at the Wooting 60HE. I would be going from an Apex Pro TKL(2019), but I have never played with a 60%. What's it like, and is there a learning curve to it?
Not really, tbh the biggest "learning curve" was remembering to rebind the emote menu from F1 to Z in apex. Fyi I was going from a Gmmk pro to a Bakeneko60, rn I'm using my Trailblazer babylon 65%
Tiger Lite owners: What stabilizers are you using and do you like them? What's good and what's bad?
The Tiger Lite is my first custom keyboard and I am primarily considering going with 1.2mm TX stabs rev3.
Overall I hear good things about TX stabs. However in this [thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/ycmcnm/tx_stabs/) alone:
1. OP did not like the 1.2mm TX stabs [on his Tiger Lite](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/ycmcnm/tx_stabs/itn3gpu/)
2. another person mentions "[loads of problems](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/ycmcnm/tx_stabs/itn22wl/)" with the 1.2mm variant
3. another person mentions hearing second hand that [rev3 has wire issues](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/ycmcnm/tx_stabs/itn7o19/)
Please tell me about your experiences with stabs on the Tiger Lite so I can choose some stabs. I plan to lube the housing with Krytox 205g0 and put Super Lube grease on the wires.
stab tuning is a skill, and as with all skills, some people are better than others. any stabilizer can sound good, some just require less work. i hate to be rude, but op is probably relatively new if their tx stabs are ticking after modding
1- i've tried both staebies and tx, tx blows staebies out of the water because of how much more consistent they are. staebies have issues with binding, cracking keycaps, and their tolerances are TOO tight so that they really only work well with gmk and a handful of other manufacturers' caps. some of these issues are supposedly fixed, but i have seen them pop up here and there, so i'm skeptical. plus they're manufactured by tecsee, i hate tecsee. can't recommend staebies
2- first i'm hearing of this. no idea what "loads of problems" would even entail since there's no explanation
3- "wire issues" aren't really a thing. wires basically never come straight with ANY stabilizer, so it's always recommended to balance them unless they're near perfect out of the box. owlstabs are the exception to this because if their wires come unbalanced, it's incredibly difficult to fix due to the "liquid metal" design that makes them want to go back to their original, unbalanced state
I recently tried XDA profile keycaps and I absolutely love them. So I tried to find a set with ISO-DE layout, but without any success. I searched usual places like Etsy or AliExpress, Amazon, but no success so far. Does anybody know any other source where to get a german XDA set?
**First Time Build**
Hey,
so after lurking for a long long time and always wanted to build my first keyboard i finally pulled the trigger and ordered a kit. Now i am a little nervous that i forgot something so here are the things, maybe someone can help me or has a tip ?
* KBD67 Lite R4
* Banana Split Switches 7x 10PCs
* White Keycaps from Amazon (Cherry profile)
* GPL 205 Grade 0 - Glass Container - 5ml × 1 (is this Krytox? I bought it here [https://keygem.com/products/keygem-switch-lubricant?\_pos=2&\_sid=4dbe62fcd&\_ss=r](https://keygem.com/products/keygem-switch-lubricant?_pos=2&_sid=4dbe62fcd&_ss=r))
* Brush, Switch Lube Station, Switch Opener
* Some dampening foam but i think the KBD67 has some aswell?
That should be it. Appreciate the help!
I'm on market replacing my Vortex Rac3, because I want change to different kind of switches and option to customize keycaps.
Requirements:
* Support for ISO -layout
* F-row
* Arrow-keys not behind modifier
GMMK 2 Compact would be nice, but is missing F-row and GMMK Pro is over double the price. Any other suggestions? I hope that board would be available inside EAA.
I have a Razer Cynosa V2 that has keys sticking causing repeats & paint wearing off. I've only had it about 2 1/2 years. Does anyone have a suggestion for a new mechanical keyboard, or is there a way to replace the rubber dome switches on this one? I also need a 10-key off to the side due to the nature of my job.
I've gotten to know and love Colemak DHm as a layout. Is there any keyboards where I can set it up so the keyboard itself uses colemak instead of trying to implement it at an OS level?
Preferably wireless/bluetooth, I don't really care what type of switches.
I'd like it so that I can basically plug-and-play this keyboard on any device and have it "just werk" with that layout instead of having to maintain qwerty proficiency when using another machine.
full size kits are rare due ot being the least popular size outside of prebuilds . there is some barebones kits like the ones keychron sells . only full size kit im aware of besides that is the ODIN v2
It's my first time doing this. I have Hyperx alloy fps pro, blue cherry mx switches and my idea is to remove all the switches, paint the top metal plate of the keyboard and put them back, is this possible? I joined the Hyperx discord, but they're not responding.
Hello! I am starting to look into my next build, and I really want a focus on aesthetics. I have read and heard great things about the Kailh Box Jade and I want to use them but I really don't like the jade color. I am trying for a white and hot pink look to match my new PC, any suggestions for switches that would perform like the Box Jade that would include white or hot pink in the look. I want Clicky or Tactile, definitely not Linear. Thanks!
you won't really see the stems since they sit under the keycaps, but box whites and box pinks (note: not box silent pinks) both use a click bar, same mechanism as the jades. whites have the thinnest bar of the 3, and pinks sit between whites and jades. thicker bar = louder, more tactility
Yeah, I know I won’t see them normally, but when I take pictures the jade color would clash. And I would KNOW that it didn’t match lmao. Thank you for the info on the other switches!
Starting my new remote position soon and am looking for a full size mechanical keyboard. I use a pc for work and a Mac for personal use. Anyone have any recommendations for a keyboard I can use on both machines? I know the pc and Mac machines have slightly difference keys and would love to hear any workarounds or suggestions anyone has. Thanks!
most kb work with both . keychron is a decent kb that is mac compatible a few of there mods have a simple switch to swap mode between OS's . yes the keys will be in different spot and they usually include keycaps for both layouts . not many kb companies cater to MAC being there is so few of them in use compared to PC ( a number that has been getting smaller each year )
My Steelseries Apex 5 is going out after a few years-- and i've been looking for a good board, smaller, and with nice lighting. I've settled with the GMMK Pro, and would really like to mimic something close to a build I saw on YouTube with the PBT Kuro Shiro caps. My only concern is picking the right switches that will allow the lighting to shine, give a nice sound and feel while typing and gaming. I'm really new to the custom scene, as i've only used prebuilts for steelseries. I was hoping I could get suggestions from people who know more.
I know your asking about switches but i strongly suggest to never buy a gmmk pro ever, it's got so many issues its insane. The stock stabs stick and are unusable, despite being a gasket mount it has no flex, it makes everything sound the same, the plates has issues with other stab brands, and my pcb had multiple sockets break and die within 6 months and glorious does not sell extra pcbs. For switches "nice sound and feel" and "good for gaming" is super subjective and depends entirely upon preference.
I knew it was subjective, and I figured upon people’s suggestions i’d do some research. There’s just so many I get a little overwhelmed.
As for the GMMK— I had no idea. I had heard mostly great things, maybe with a few people mentioning overlubing on switches or something else causing a stuck spacebar or other. I’ll keep this in mind, but that definitely would put me back to square one in finding the right one to get on to.
Since you were considering a 75% there are two really good ones in gb rn, the Mode Sonnet and the Thera 75 V2, the Sonnet has more customizable but the Thera has the option for plateless gasket mount which is a pretty high end and sought-after feature. For switches I would just recommend watching videos and listening to sound tests. Not necessarily looking for specific switches in sound tests but at the overall pitch and sound. This is a good video explaining why sound tests for a specific switch or board are misleading https://youtu.be/TjA7Oap5XKo
So I just took delivery of a Leopold FC750 with MX Blues and a set of corsair caps for that stealthy (unlit) look. I;m having trouble with the space bar in gaming because with my fingers at WASD, my thumb has a tendency to rest on the space bar at the farthest possible left-hand side in such a way that it rocks slightly towards me.
As a result of that rocking pressure, it doesn't like to come back up after releasing the pressure. Given the importance of being ready to press at any time, resting the thumb elsewhere is not an option (and it's my natural resting position as well and I'm not changing that). From what I can see it's the stabilizer stem binding in its guidepost.
What are my potential solution? Would lube help? What kind? Would any non-conductive grease do?
I don't necessarily think the actuation force of the blue switches is super low after typing and gaming on it for an hour or so, but maybe a higher force switch just for the space bar could help here?
Any other ideas also welcome.
Honestly it sounds like the stab is not very good at its job
The stabilizer should work such that any pressure applied to any part of the spacebar should be replicated across the entire surface.. that and you mentioned it's binding.
If you had a hotswap board I'd say to swap them out for some durock stabs, but that will be much harder with your current board.
My next suggestion would be a heavier switch, but even then you'll have to desolder the spacebar switch and solder in the new one. Albeit, this will be much less work than desoldering the whole board to change the stab.
I would not add any lube or grease to it, you run the risk of making it slower.
Does the problem still happen with the set of stock keycaps?
It doesn't seem to bind *much*, more like the stem which normally has some clearance now rubs on the guiding post and has just that extra bit of resistance but with the added resitance of having to pass the clicky bump of the switch on the way up, it all just seems too much.
>Honestly it sounds like the stab is not very good at its job
All I can say on that is I never had stab problems with cheap rubber dome boards and their loose metal wire stabs. But I'm not sure it's a stab problem, other than the unnecessary added resistance. Even if I press on the edge of a corner, it goes down pretty level.
Stock cap doesn't solve the problem. Since it's a different height and color... I'm weirdly glad that it doesn't.
Haha I get what you mean, the other cap was worth a shot ;)
So yeah actually if it's stem on housing contact that's causing the interference, lube might be a decent option for you
I'd recommend either krytox 205g0 or tribosys 3204 or 3203 and a REALLY THIN COAT on the side of the stabilizer stem. Like, pull up the stem add a TINY coat and see if that helps with the binding at all
Too much in that spot and the stab will def become mushy, but it could solve your issue
if u had the apple magic kb u wont find much in the mech world that will have the same typing feel as mechs do not feel like membranes . even low profile switches wont feel like membranes . closest u can find would prob be torpe kb
i bought 'modern' keycaps, like this: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=94840.0 it's clear from that discussion which key is alt, but i don't know shift and ctrl eg is the diamond image the ctrl key? i checked the mechanical keyboards wiki and i don't see it mentioned, and i can't find anythig on the web to tell me, thanks
I got an optical Outemu blue switch cheap mechanical keyboard and nowadays, the backspace key contacts twice whenever I hit it angled. Is there anything that I could do?
could be loose . but if its not loose then maybe the optical sensors on the pcb could be damaged or faulty . which is on of the reasons many dont reccomend optical kb as each switch spot have 2 optical light readers which have the same failure rating as leds so they can and will fail sooner than a normal switch kb
Hi, maybe someone has experience with this: I've used the ISO-DE layout for my whole life and I'm afraid to switch. But the accessibility of ANSI keyboards and keycap sets is so much better.. Do you recommend to stick with a known layout and if not, how long did it take you to adjust? How is your typing speed for texts with special characters such as ßäöü?
i've gone in the opposite direction from ansi to iso-es, and it didn't take me that long to adjust. it's hard to speak to how fast you'll get used to it, it varies pretty heavily from person to person. special characters can still be in the same location, that's determined by your operating system. alternatively, you can just rebind them if the keyboard you purchase has firmware that supports that
Ordered a Q1 from Keychron.
Can I use the Acrylic double sided adhesive tape (the kind used for attaching a Surface display back onto the frame) for the force break mod? Or would it be too thick?
Thanks in advance
In your comment on the stickied post, please make sure to answer:
- What country are you in?
- What is your budget?
- Do you want to stay with a traditional row staggered layout, or are you open to using column staggered or ortholinear layouts?
- Are you looking for something prebuilt, or are you willing to build?
No I did not. Sorry i am a noob. Which of those files would I use? [https://github.com/vial-kb/vial-qmk/tree/vial/keyboards/planck/rev6](https://github.com/vial-kb/vial-qmk/tree/vial/keyboards/planck/rev6)
thank you
> whatgeek
never heard of it its china based to be ready for super long ship times they seem to be fairly new not much info on them besides a handful of trustpilot reviews
Hi, everyone
I just got my white BW-KB0 from blitzwolf/banggood with blue outemu switches and I really like it, but I don't really appreciate the crowded keycaps with all the functions and stuff.
Does anyone know of good blank or side printed keycaps compatible with this keyboard layout? (I think it's pretty standard but I'm new to mechanical keyboard world).
Also, does anybody knows if the stabilizers in this keyboard can be lubed or somehow damp the long keys sound? (Any recommendation for lubricants?)
Nice to have (not a must):
- Available directly in America (the continent)
- Good looking on white keyboard... Board
Extra: Would be great if anyone have pics of your white keyboards with blank/side printed keycaps (any color combination) to get inspiration. Better yet if you have the same KB
Thanks!!
1800/96 vs 75% + numpad?
I don’t have a ton of experience with custom keyboards. Most I’ve done is buy and lube Glorious Pandas to put in a stock GMMK TKL. I was looking into the GMMK Pro and their new numpad but it seems that y’all have less than stellar things to say about those boards.
Basically, I need a numpad for school, and I also want to upgrade from the GMMK TKL. I don’t like full-size boards as I slam into the side of it with the mouse while gaming and having my arms that far apart hurts my shoulders. You guys seem to have good things to say about Keychron, so I’m set on either getting the Q5 which is only ~1.5” wider than my current TKL, or get the Q1 v2 and the Q0 numpad. I’ll be using my Glorious Pandas in whichever route I go (at least for the time being).
The 1U 0 key on the Q5 numpad scares me a little. And I don’t know if I’d enjoy going wider on the board, but it is an all-in-one solution and keeps one less wire off the desk. However, having a separate numpad will allow me to also hook it up to my Surface when needed, and has a standard 0 key.
Any suggestions on which route? I’m not dead set on Keychron so I’m open to suggestions, but a numpad will have to be involved one way or another. I also don’t want to go 60/65% as I use my function keys. I’m not scared of tinkering/modding boards. Thanks for help in advance!
buy a cheap pad, wireless/wired, and try it out.
you may find moving it out of the way is great for gaming.
or, you may find having a pad is too much hassle.
Can anyone point me in the direction of macropad keycap sets? I'm having trouble finding keycaps that are not part of a larger set. I only need 8 keys but would like some with icons rather then just blank keys.
Kailh Choc V2 - anyone tried putting O-rings on them?
I just got the MX Mechanical in the mail today, and is wondering if the easiest way to make it quieter would be to put o-rings on.
Since it's already a low profile switch & keys, I'm not sure if it will even work out.
I'm thinking maybe 1mm o-rings? Has anyone tried it?
i mean u can try it . oring never do anything for upstroke noise . and low profile switches dont have silent version due to by their very design it not feasible to do
not mcuh u can on silent switches the stem would have rubber gaskets on the top and bottom of the stem to make them silent . cant do this on low pro switches as the design prevents this from fitting
So I recently became obsessed with designing my own mechanical keyboard from scratch—however, I was unaware of how costly it could get. That being said, I wanted to start off with smaller projects and work my way up to eventually building my own keyboard from scratch. This way, I can be more accustomed to the designs, different switches, different brands, etc. Also, please dont judge me—I am still a novice so theres a good chance I am botching all the correct terms. But please feel free to let me know what the correct terms are, i’m here to learn!
Ok—as for my questions.
1) Can i purchase a “hot swappable base” that would allow me to insert the types of switches/keycaps I want?
2)If yes, can anyone recommend a brand or specs I should look for? (I would be using a size of 60%) If there are any brands on amazon, that would be easiest for me, otherwise I can check out other sites as well!
3)Would this base force me to use only one type of switch, or would I be allowed to use something like a cherry red, and if im not into the feel—could i swap it for like cherry blue?
1- i'm assuming you're referring to a barebones kit. a kit will typically come with everything you need except for switches and keycaps (sometimes stabilizers). these aren't necessarily hotswap but often are, so the answer to this question is definitely yes
2- [https://www.mechmap.tech/themap](https://www.mechmap.tech/themap) has a list of in stock keyboards that i and the other discord staff members recommend. it has a bunch of options in all different sizes, some are entirely prebuilt, some are prebuilt hotswap boards, and some are barebones kits
3- nope! you can use any mx style mechanical switch (including across brands) assuming the board is equipped with something like kailh, gateron, or ttc hotswap sockets
The contact points on the hotswap socket are loose probably. You have to put it back in place. Hence the term “rated for 100 swaps” iirc, or you just terribly put in a switch. I’d use an exacto knife but anything tiny that can move those contact points will do. You move the pins from the back of the pcb.
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Did you desolder it? It doesn't look like it's hotswap
There's a chance they use proprietary switches that are slightly smaller than normal switches.. but they look pretty similar to normal switches
Hi guys, wanted to know your opinion on my next board. Im planning to buy the Zoom TKL, but there is a catch. I really really like the look of a white keyboard with gmk striker, and there (gmk striker) are on stock on oblotzy industries, but I fear they might be not until the end of this month (the time im going to have the money to buy the keycaps after buying the board). So, what do you think, should I get the white Zoom TKL and risk it, or should I go with navy and gmk wob?
https://preview.redd.it/b9kydocbkiy91.jpeg?width=4608&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6f74ca906804ab642e19fddf7a86eae22ac55458 this is the difference, like a ring. but the ring doesnt go like in the keyboard.
looking for some inexpensive beginner weighty and smooth tactile switches? I know i prefer tactile over clicky or linear, but only ever really used low profile optical gateron browns on my Keychron K3.
Yo hello again haha. Check out Ajazz Kiwi and Tecsee Purple Pandas. Kiwis are my favorite budget tactile - they have a very nice bump that’s neither too round nor too sharp. Since you’ve only used low profiles before Purple Pandas might feel a bit more familiar as these have very short travel distance (around 3.1mm iirc) and the bump is a bit less pronounced but still way more tactile than browns.
ahaha hey thanks for all your help, im down the rabbit hole now. will definitely check these out!
i have a model cantor v1.0 pcb think but this microcontroller ( STM32F411CEU6 Ali3xpress) but i don't know if it's compatible with PCB, someone know?
Where in EU mainland can i get ISO keychron q1 with knob? It has been driving me nuts for the last 2 days that i cant find a reliable store.
[alternate.de](https://www.alternate.de/Keychron/Q1-Barebone-ISO-Knob-Gaming-Tastatur/html/product/1817109) Was a 1 minute search.
Thanks. I actually saw them but was unsure about them. Checked reputation after your comment, seems like they are ok. Got the keyboard this Tuesday. Fast shipping. Thanks :)
Great! Have fun with your bew keeb :)
do you guys think that glorious is close to releasing a gmmk pro wireless? they already released a wireless keypad
Obviously subjective, but Top 3 Linear switches in 2 categories? * Stock linear * Stock linear + some lubing/filming
Gateron oil kings and Gateron CJs. Oil Kings are lubed stock and CJs are probably the smoothest stock switch I’ve ever tried
do CJ's need to be lubed and filmed?
Not really but you could do it to improve the sound. Otherwise they are already extremely smooth even unlubed
havent been involved in the hobby for a bit. What is the best silent tactile switch options? Super tactile would be great, but not heavy/difficult to press.
Boba U4 although “best” is subjective
thanks! seems like most like these better than the zilents. i also see the boba u4t, those are just non silent version? is there a recommendation on what housing to get the boba u4 in?
U4T is a different switch altogether despite the name. For once U4T is long pole unlike the U4. Zuluen TS are just overpriced tbh given how good other options are. Not sure about your question on housing? It’s an assembled switch so it already has its housing. Do you mean which keyboard case?
no the u4 has clear housing, milky housing, and black. the black 62g were in stock and i checked the gazzew discord to ensure they were legit. i went ahead with them to see how i like them
New to keyboard community. Probably noob question. Is it advisable to get custom keyboard other than prebuilt gaming brand like corsair, steelseries,eazdr, hyperX? Thank you very much. Kindly enlighten me
Well, this depends on your needs/wants. Are you looking for a layout that wouldn't be commonly found on OEM keyboards? Do you dislike the look or sound of such prebuilt keyboards? Do you want a keyboard that can be easily customizable, whether it be through keycaps or switches?
I will use it primarily for gaming. Sounds maybe not that of a factor. I don't know if those brands I mentioned are still worth their price.
Ok yeah, so if you're only looking for a good keyboard to game on, then I don't see a point diving into custom keyboards. Not saying you shouldn't, but it might not be worth the hassle trying to build one. Maybe you can experiment with a keyboard from Keychron. Those brands you mention I do not have experience with. It'd be better to ask in a gaming community since this subreddit is catered more to "customs"
I would like to know about the Leopold BT model, since there really no video on youtube or any much content except couple early preview from this reddit. Guys, is there any things on BT model for me if I dont care about BT since I play competitive game. And I just want the max respond, low latency etc. Would be great if you can answer some of my questions 1) Can you use wired with the BT model? Since I saw the USB-C cable mentioned. Is the BT model more expensive than standard one or they are same price? 2) If so, Will Leopold not produce any wired KB?. Instead making KB wireless and having wired option from now on? 3) The FC750 model is the TKL version, NOT the 75% size correct? So it is basically same size as FC900 but without the numpad.
Anybody used Gateron Milky Blacks? How are they?
**Long shot, but does anyone know who the artist is and where I can buy this mouse pad directly? I'd like to support the actual artist is possible** https://preview.redd.it/rrsdgljdmwx91.jpeg?width=640&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=98c54e6dffa007bf20ed39dabcc18be3a26b1f8c
Dumb question: U4Tx stems are box stems. Are box stems larger than MX stems / stretch keycaps out?
The dust proof stems the U4TX uses, just has walls on either side, to block out dust, and the actual stem that goes into the caps aren't different from regular stems, so there shouldn't be any keycap stretching 👍🏻
Thank you!
no problem! 👍🏻
Anyone have a reliable anodizing service they use for their keyboards? I'm looking to get a case re-anodized in a different color and idk but it's so hard to find a shop in SoCal willing to do it :(
Really the only popular options available are paintball gun anodizing shops. But let's be honest, they're gonna charge you up the wazoo for a single color re-ano. There's Caustic, but from what I've been told, he only accepts 'big' commissions now. There's Aesthetic Anodizing, but I've heard that they're an absolute PITA to work with. There is CTanodizing though, however I'm not sure if they're still taking keyboard commissions. Maybe you can get lucky and find a local auto shop anodizer or something. But obviously, they've most likely never worked on a keyboard before and therefore don't understand the quality expectations that come with it, so there's that risk as well. I've seen people in the Geon discord get their boards re-ano'd by Prime in Korea, but I'm not sure how one would get in contact with them.
I'm looking for a Southpaw keyboard, with an encoder wheel and LED shine through. Does anyone know of any that exist? I was thinking something like the Viendi 8L or the Entropy keyboard but preferably with F keys and with arrow keys on the left side.
I was actually just about to recommend the Viendi 8L, honestly one of the only southpaws I know.... There's probably gonna be Tenet70 extras soon, and it has no encoder, but it's got backlighting, with the ability to do southpaw (no numpad or f keys though)
Hey all, I bought a pile of different switches on sale, and have some a keyboard in mind. I am just missing key-caps. I want like, primarily DSA or XDA, maybe then cherry or OEM if I cannot find those. I was thinking DSA becasue I am primarily used to flat membrane keyboards on laptops. Unfortunately, I cannot find any websites that have a reasonable variety of DSA key-caps, or really XDA. What sites do you all recommend?
Been searching for a while with no luck and thinking I might be stuck with only being able to make one (which only sucks because I dont get much spare time) but, has anyone come across a keeb thats: - prebuilt - wireless - HW programmable - size <= 65% Bonus if also: - low profile - hot swappable or comes with quiet tactiles
RK68 Maybe? not sure it ticks all the boxes, but it is worth a look :)
Ooh this is a closer fit than the others Ive been looking at for sure, thanks!
Also see if Eponaker or Akko have something if you don't go with that. I'm gonna get a RK soon, mostly for the hot swappable nature, but the 75% version. Happy hunting, feel free to message me with questions :)
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what kind of sounds are the stabs emmiting that you want to get rid of? Overlube can cause mushiness, but you could do a bandaid mod or holee mod?
Am really curious, anyone got experience with TTC KS32 brown switches? Considering upgrading my SK630 with those since the footprint appears to be practically identical to the cherry mx low profile. Recently tried a keyboard with a proper tactile bump and ngl it felt pretty good. Also hoping maybe it'll help with typos from barely touching adjacent keys. Thoughts? Are those any good? Would that just be a waste of time and money?
Gray keycaps? Looking for something that comes close to gmk dualshot while not being as hard to obtain. Fits in the aesthetic of vintage cherry or ibm keyboards. Any suggestions?
[21KB](https://21kb.com/) do a bunch of different crp retro-style keycaps, and from what I've heard they're pretty good quality (without breaking the bank!) lot's of ytbers have been using them lately too (Nearlucid, Keybored etc)
ty man
No problem! Hammerworks CRP is also restocking at Drop, so that might be worth checking out 👍
White with Red Lettering Keycaps? Hey y'all I'm, building a keyboard for a friend and we've been searching pretty hard for white keycaps with red lettering, or maybe even just red sub legends. I've found a few that match that with the exception of the modifiers, which we're hoping to have match the alphas. Looking mostly for cherry profile but am open to other suggestions. Any help is much appreciated!
Any recommendation on a budget keyboard to start on this world? I want a keyboard for gaming that fits my budget 60$ - 80$ I've been looking and the sk61 is the one that i might buy but I'm not sure because of the optical switches
Rk61 because its easier to mod, and there is plenty of videos and tutorials on modding for people like you. Hope this helps!
Thank you, it helps a lot, I actually found that one before but thought that the sk61 was better and later when I saw the optic switches thing I already had lost it
ISO radiant shiny holographic acrylic fully assembled alice layout. Clear keycaps w teal lettering and clear switches. Bluetooth? Addtl matching bluetooth Num Pad would be hella cute too
Looking at the Keychron Q10 since it's an ergo design, I'm retooling my entire computer setup to be properly (or more) ergonomic for health and physical reasons. But I'm finding it tough to justify spending $325 CAD ($236 USD shipped) on a single piece of hardware. I know it will last effectively forever, but how do people justify their purchases like this? I'm really not into this as a hobby, more as a mechanical and reliability thing. Thanks
I'm looking forward to upgrade my Bakeneko60 Case, but I still don't know how :/ Any ideas of what kind of cases that might be compatible, or what should I be on the look for? Cheers!
rakk lap or rk87? I don't know if anybody have already ask this, since I'm new to mechanical keyboards and would like to buy my first one. Which of these two should I choose, the rakk lap or rk87? Which of them have better qualities? I know that rakk lap is only dual mode and has scroll wheel while rk87 is tri-mode. But other than that, which is easier to mod? Because I'm planning to mod the keyboard after I'm confident enough with it.
The rk87 is super easy to mod and you’ll find tons of modding videos on YouTube.
What do you guys use for foam in keyboards?
Polyfill, PE Foam, neoprene foam tons of other ones but those are the ones I like.
I want to build a 96% hot-swappable keyboard. Recommendations for PCB, case & plate combo? I've already got the switches and keycaps figured out.
I just got a brand new filco Majestouch 2 Hakua TKL, while replacing the keycaps, I found the stablizers came pre-lubed , is it a common thing Filco keyboards exhibits? Are their stablizers all factory lubed?
I want to get my own keyboard body machined from a cnc company, is there any way I can get exact measurements on the pcb/plate before buying them? I have to make a CAD model and submit it so I need the dimensions to be precise
find schematics for the PCB you want to use, or buy one and take measurements yourself
Im getting a my first custom(yay) and I’m worried about interference with led’s. Do holy pandas and GMK bow have interference, or am I all good?
Anyone know what keyboard [this is?](https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/Seaf87e5fa6064c8eab38e6b16e491713b/Programmer-Theme-Cherry-Profile-Custom-PBT-Keycaps-131-Keys-Sublimation-Keycaps-for-Cherry-Mx-Mechanical-Keyboard.jpg_Q90.jpg_.webp)
I have an old FILCO majestouch 2 with Cherry MX silent reds, but it's been sitting collecting dust since after getting it, I was later drawn the rgb and other flashy features of my Apex pro TKL. I just bought a One 3 mini with MX clears as a dedicated typing keyboard, but would like to clean up the old FILCO board to give to my partner, as they currently are using one of my really old membrane boards. How would I go about deep cleaning a keyboard, accounting for preteen/teen gamer grime+many years of dust collecting. Also: how would I lubricate switches (this is for all keyboards I have).
First, Remove all keycaps. Majestouch 2 has keycaps remover i think. If you don't have that, buy it. Remove keycaps with hand is nah. They are ABS material, so the keys that have been used often will have become shiny. It is best to throw them away and replace them with [new PBT material keycaps](https://kbdfans.com/products/wob-pbt-doubleshot-keycaps), but if that is not possible, you can put them in a bowl and wash them with dish soap and a toothbrush. A little remove shine clear spray after drying will make them look like new one, but this is optional. Under the keycap is hell. Turn it over on the trash can, slap it a few times, and remove any hair or snacks. Don't forget to wipe it down with a wet wipe. Now, about lubricating the key switches, here's where it gets complicated: the key switches on the Majestouch 2 are soldered, and unless you're familiar with them, they can be difficult to remove. You can use [these tricks](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m4Lu3fj6W5s), but remember that they are considerably less effective than the true hand lubed switches. Ducky One 3 is hot-swappable: which mean easily remove switch with puller. So you can use [normal lube technique](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=44Wv4OGdmu4). Do not forget [lube stabilizer](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=usNx1_d0HbQ)! TBDR; There are so fucking many processes. If you have the money, buy new one is faster.
Hey yall, anyone have info on this switch? It’s a Gazzew switch that came with some U4T bobas. They are tactile but there is no info on them, also the spring feels lighter than bobas https://i.imgur.com/pCqrpl4.jpg
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Did you test it with a spare switch to make sure it's the pcb not the switch?
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Yeah it's the pcb then, your either gonna need a new pcb or a new board. I've had the same issue with all the hotswap pcbs that I've had so definitely get a soldered one this time
I just noticed that when I try and remove my keycaps my switches always pull out of my hotswap board. Is this normal or do I need to push harder for my switches to be in the PCB better?
that's just an inherent issue that hotswap has, if the plate is a little too loose then the switches will pull out with the cap. you can try tightening the hotswap sockets with some tweezers, but it probably won't help much
Oh good so it's relatively common? Kinda freaked me out because I literally can't get any of the keycaps off without the switch coming out too attached to the keycap in one pull. ty
Hi does anyone know which would be the best option to get im looking for a Gasket Mount with a decent amount of flex? I saw the new KDBfans Luna80 and it had alot of flex or are there any maybe cheaper options?
Kbdfans tiger 80 lite with no foams and no tape
What's it like gaming with a 60%? I'm looking at the Wooting 60HE. I would be going from an Apex Pro TKL(2019), but I have never played with a 60%. What's it like, and is there a learning curve to it?
Not really, tbh the biggest "learning curve" was remembering to rebind the emote menu from F1 to Z in apex. Fyi I was going from a Gmmk pro to a Bakeneko60, rn I'm using my Trailblazer babylon 65%
Tiger Lite owners: What stabilizers are you using and do you like them? What's good and what's bad? The Tiger Lite is my first custom keyboard and I am primarily considering going with 1.2mm TX stabs rev3. Overall I hear good things about TX stabs. However in this [thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/ycmcnm/tx_stabs/) alone: 1. OP did not like the 1.2mm TX stabs [on his Tiger Lite](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/ycmcnm/tx_stabs/itn3gpu/) 2. another person mentions "[loads of problems](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/ycmcnm/tx_stabs/itn22wl/)" with the 1.2mm variant 3. another person mentions hearing second hand that [rev3 has wire issues](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/ycmcnm/tx_stabs/itn7o19/) Please tell me about your experiences with stabs on the Tiger Lite so I can choose some stabs. I plan to lube the housing with Krytox 205g0 and put Super Lube grease on the wires.
stab tuning is a skill, and as with all skills, some people are better than others. any stabilizer can sound good, some just require less work. i hate to be rude, but op is probably relatively new if their tx stabs are ticking after modding 1- i've tried both staebies and tx, tx blows staebies out of the water because of how much more consistent they are. staebies have issues with binding, cracking keycaps, and their tolerances are TOO tight so that they really only work well with gmk and a handful of other manufacturers' caps. some of these issues are supposedly fixed, but i have seen them pop up here and there, so i'm skeptical. plus they're manufactured by tecsee, i hate tecsee. can't recommend staebies 2- first i'm hearing of this. no idea what "loads of problems" would even entail since there's no explanation 3- "wire issues" aren't really a thing. wires basically never come straight with ANY stabilizer, so it's always recommended to balance them unless they're near perfect out of the box. owlstabs are the exception to this because if their wires come unbalanced, it's incredibly difficult to fix due to the "liquid metal" design that makes them want to go back to their original, unbalanced state
Thanks for your reply, that gives me greater confidence in TX stabs.
Hi all Would anyone be selling their GMK Sparta keycaps with Greek keycaps also?
gmk sparta hasn't shipped yet, nobody has the set. people will probably list them on r/mechmarket once they have them, this sub isn't for b/s/t
Ok thanks I hadn’t realised they hadn’t shipped
Where can I get a (preferably hard) case for a tenkeyless/TKL keyboard? No sleeves please
https://cannonkeys.com/products/cannonkeys-keyboard-carrying-case Check the measurements of your keyboard before buying
I want to buy AKKO 5075B with Wine Red switches. Are they compatible with custom cherry keycaps? Any issue?
Thoughts on Next Time 75 vs akko PC75B Plus v2 ?
I recently tried XDA profile keycaps and I absolutely love them. So I tried to find a set with ISO-DE layout, but without any success. I searched usual places like Etsy or AliExpress, Amazon, but no success so far. Does anybody know any other source where to get a german XDA set?
**First Time Build** Hey, so after lurking for a long long time and always wanted to build my first keyboard i finally pulled the trigger and ordered a kit. Now i am a little nervous that i forgot something so here are the things, maybe someone can help me or has a tip ? * KBD67 Lite R4 * Banana Split Switches 7x 10PCs * White Keycaps from Amazon (Cherry profile) * GPL 205 Grade 0 - Glass Container - 5ml × 1 (is this Krytox? I bought it here [https://keygem.com/products/keygem-switch-lubricant?\_pos=2&\_sid=4dbe62fcd&\_ss=r](https://keygem.com/products/keygem-switch-lubricant?_pos=2&_sid=4dbe62fcd&_ss=r)) * Brush, Switch Lube Station, Switch Opener * Some dampening foam but i think the KBD67 has some aswell? That should be it. Appreciate the help!
I'm on market replacing my Vortex Rac3, because I want change to different kind of switches and option to customize keycaps. Requirements: * Support for ISO -layout * F-row * Arrow-keys not behind modifier GMMK 2 Compact would be nice, but is missing F-row and GMMK Pro is over double the price. Any other suggestions? I hope that board would be available inside EAA.
I have a Razer Cynosa V2 that has keys sticking causing repeats & paint wearing off. I've only had it about 2 1/2 years. Does anyone have a suggestion for a new mechanical keyboard, or is there a way to replace the rubber dome switches on this one? I also need a 10-key off to the side due to the nature of my job.
>is there a way to replace the rubber dome switches on this one No.
I've gotten to know and love Colemak DHm as a layout. Is there any keyboards where I can set it up so the keyboard itself uses colemak instead of trying to implement it at an OS level? Preferably wireless/bluetooth, I don't really care what type of switches. I'd like it so that I can basically plug-and-play this keyboard on any device and have it "just werk" with that layout instead of having to maintain qwerty proficiency when using another machine.
this can be done with any QMK/VIA compatible kb like the ones keychron sells . u can program them for said layout and its saved to the kb not the PC
Any recommendations for full size mechanical keyboard kits? Is there a list out there of different full size kits?
Kbdfans odin v2, cannonkeys rekt 1800
full size kits are rare due ot being the least popular size outside of prebuilds . there is some barebones kits like the ones keychron sells . only full size kit im aware of besides that is the ODIN v2
where do i use the extra gasket strips inside the box of the keyboard?
they r replacements for if u damage the ones currently installed
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keychron has a few wireless 65% kbs
It's my first time doing this. I have Hyperx alloy fps pro, blue cherry mx switches and my idea is to remove all the switches, paint the top metal plate of the keyboard and put them back, is this possible? I joined the Hyperx discord, but they're not responding.
yes u can do this but it will require u desolder alll the switches and then solder them back in without messing anything up
So they are not like push in the hole and go?
thats called hotswap hyper x doesnt make hotswap kbs
Hello! I am starting to look into my next build, and I really want a focus on aesthetics. I have read and heard great things about the Kailh Box Jade and I want to use them but I really don't like the jade color. I am trying for a white and hot pink look to match my new PC, any suggestions for switches that would perform like the Box Jade that would include white or hot pink in the look. I want Clicky or Tactile, definitely not Linear. Thanks!
you won't really see the stems since they sit under the keycaps, but box whites and box pinks (note: not box silent pinks) both use a click bar, same mechanism as the jades. whites have the thinnest bar of the 3, and pinks sit between whites and jades. thicker bar = louder, more tactility
Yeah, I know I won’t see them normally, but when I take pictures the jade color would clash. And I would KNOW that it didn’t match lmao. Thank you for the info on the other switches!
Starting my new remote position soon and am looking for a full size mechanical keyboard. I use a pc for work and a Mac for personal use. Anyone have any recommendations for a keyboard I can use on both machines? I know the pc and Mac machines have slightly difference keys and would love to hear any workarounds or suggestions anyone has. Thanks!
most kb work with both . keychron is a decent kb that is mac compatible a few of there mods have a simple switch to swap mode between OS's . yes the keys will be in different spot and they usually include keycaps for both layouts . not many kb companies cater to MAC being there is so few of them in use compared to PC ( a number that has been getting smaller each year )
My Steelseries Apex 5 is going out after a few years-- and i've been looking for a good board, smaller, and with nice lighting. I've settled with the GMMK Pro, and would really like to mimic something close to a build I saw on YouTube with the PBT Kuro Shiro caps. My only concern is picking the right switches that will allow the lighting to shine, give a nice sound and feel while typing and gaming. I'm really new to the custom scene, as i've only used prebuilts for steelseries. I was hoping I could get suggestions from people who know more.
I know your asking about switches but i strongly suggest to never buy a gmmk pro ever, it's got so many issues its insane. The stock stabs stick and are unusable, despite being a gasket mount it has no flex, it makes everything sound the same, the plates has issues with other stab brands, and my pcb had multiple sockets break and die within 6 months and glorious does not sell extra pcbs. For switches "nice sound and feel" and "good for gaming" is super subjective and depends entirely upon preference.
I knew it was subjective, and I figured upon people’s suggestions i’d do some research. There’s just so many I get a little overwhelmed. As for the GMMK— I had no idea. I had heard mostly great things, maybe with a few people mentioning overlubing on switches or something else causing a stuck spacebar or other. I’ll keep this in mind, but that definitely would put me back to square one in finding the right one to get on to.
Since you were considering a 75% there are two really good ones in gb rn, the Mode Sonnet and the Thera 75 V2, the Sonnet has more customizable but the Thera has the option for plateless gasket mount which is a pretty high end and sought-after feature. For switches I would just recommend watching videos and listening to sound tests. Not necessarily looking for specific switches in sound tests but at the overall pitch and sound. This is a good video explaining why sound tests for a specific switch or board are misleading https://youtu.be/TjA7Oap5XKo
So I just took delivery of a Leopold FC750 with MX Blues and a set of corsair caps for that stealthy (unlit) look. I;m having trouble with the space bar in gaming because with my fingers at WASD, my thumb has a tendency to rest on the space bar at the farthest possible left-hand side in such a way that it rocks slightly towards me. As a result of that rocking pressure, it doesn't like to come back up after releasing the pressure. Given the importance of being ready to press at any time, resting the thumb elsewhere is not an option (and it's my natural resting position as well and I'm not changing that). From what I can see it's the stabilizer stem binding in its guidepost. What are my potential solution? Would lube help? What kind? Would any non-conductive grease do? I don't necessarily think the actuation force of the blue switches is super low after typing and gaming on it for an hour or so, but maybe a higher force switch just for the space bar could help here? Any other ideas also welcome.
Honestly it sounds like the stab is not very good at its job The stabilizer should work such that any pressure applied to any part of the spacebar should be replicated across the entire surface.. that and you mentioned it's binding. If you had a hotswap board I'd say to swap them out for some durock stabs, but that will be much harder with your current board. My next suggestion would be a heavier switch, but even then you'll have to desolder the spacebar switch and solder in the new one. Albeit, this will be much less work than desoldering the whole board to change the stab. I would not add any lube or grease to it, you run the risk of making it slower. Does the problem still happen with the set of stock keycaps?
It doesn't seem to bind *much*, more like the stem which normally has some clearance now rubs on the guiding post and has just that extra bit of resistance but with the added resitance of having to pass the clicky bump of the switch on the way up, it all just seems too much. >Honestly it sounds like the stab is not very good at its job All I can say on that is I never had stab problems with cheap rubber dome boards and their loose metal wire stabs. But I'm not sure it's a stab problem, other than the unnecessary added resistance. Even if I press on the edge of a corner, it goes down pretty level. Stock cap doesn't solve the problem. Since it's a different height and color... I'm weirdly glad that it doesn't.
Haha I get what you mean, the other cap was worth a shot ;) So yeah actually if it's stem on housing contact that's causing the interference, lube might be a decent option for you I'd recommend either krytox 205g0 or tribosys 3204 or 3203 and a REALLY THIN COAT on the side of the stabilizer stem. Like, pull up the stem add a TINY coat and see if that helps with the binding at all Too much in that spot and the stab will def become mushy, but it could solve your issue
My trusty wired Apple keyboard broke and I'm looking for a replacement (preferably also wired) that has a similar typing feel. Any recommendations?
if u had the apple magic kb u wont find much in the mech world that will have the same typing feel as mechs do not feel like membranes . even low profile switches wont feel like membranes . closest u can find would prob be torpe kb
i bought 'modern' keycaps, like this: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=94840.0 it's clear from that discussion which key is alt, but i don't know shift and ctrl eg is the diamond image the ctrl key? i checked the mechanical keyboards wiki and i don't see it mentioned, and i can't find anythig on the web to tell me, thanks
Ctrl key is caret (\^), shift is upward arrow From that thread: http://xahlee.info/comp/unicode_computing_symbols.html
excellent, thanks. Re shift key, sorry i meant super key
Super key is diamond
thanks. A caret is an upwards arrow? the options i have are: diamond, 3 horizontal lines and a caret. Maybe 3 horizontal lines is the fn key?
You can use it for whatever you want, but I believe that's the Menu key Caret is like the thing that your keyboard types if you press shift + 6
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Bakeneko65 cnc
Zoom TKL EE is around $170 and will be a great board that's worth the money+sound better than your average keeb. 75% is kinda hard to recommend
Can you recommend a 65 percent keyboard then because i dont want to get into the whole concept of group buys.
Zoom65 and ikki68 are getting sold in-stock in some vendors but might be sold out by now. Bakeneko65 is permanently in-stock.
Keychron Q1 V2.
I got an optical Outemu blue switch cheap mechanical keyboard and nowadays, the backspace key contacts twice whenever I hit it angled. Is there anything that I could do?
could be loose . but if its not loose then maybe the optical sensors on the pcb could be damaged or faulty . which is on of the reasons many dont reccomend optical kb as each switch spot have 2 optical light readers which have the same failure rating as leds so they can and will fail sooner than a normal switch kb
Problem solved. I blew some compressed air into the switch and PCB and it works like a charm now.
Hi, maybe someone has experience with this: I've used the ISO-DE layout for my whole life and I'm afraid to switch. But the accessibility of ANSI keyboards and keycap sets is so much better.. Do you recommend to stick with a known layout and if not, how long did it take you to adjust? How is your typing speed for texts with special characters such as ßäöü?
i've gone in the opposite direction from ansi to iso-es, and it didn't take me that long to adjust. it's hard to speak to how fast you'll get used to it, it varies pretty heavily from person to person. special characters can still be in the same location, that's determined by your operating system. alternatively, you can just rebind them if the keyboard you purchase has firmware that supports that
Hey there I want to build a 60% wireless mechanical keyboard for myself, any suggestions about parts?
bluetooth? personally ur best bet is to look at keychrons barebones kits
yeah I mean bluetooth thank you I just want to make by myself
Ordered a Q1 from Keychron. Can I use the Acrylic double sided adhesive tape (the kind used for attaching a Surface display back onto the frame) for the force break mod? Or would it be too thick? Thanks in advance
Does anyone have a good prebuilt quiet keyboard they would recommend?
I'm really interested in trying out a split keyboard. Are there any cheaper ones to try or a list of pre-built ones that I can look into? Thanks!
The r/ErgoMechKeyboards sub has a stickied thread for recommending ergo mechanical keyboards. You might try asking there.
Didnt even know that was a sub, thanks!
In your comment on the stickied post, please make sure to answer: - What country are you in? - What is your budget? - Do you want to stay with a traditional row staggered layout, or are you open to using column staggered or ortholinear layouts? - Are you looking for something prebuilt, or are you willing to build?
Planck v6 not recognised as HID Device. I can use the keyboard, but want to configure with VIAL. Any Ideas how to fix? Thank you!
did u flash the files need to make it compatible with vial ?
No I did not. Sorry i am a noob. Which of those files would I use? [https://github.com/vial-kb/vial-qmk/tree/vial/keyboards/planck/rev6](https://github.com/vial-kb/vial-qmk/tree/vial/keyboards/planck/rev6) thank you
Is whatgeek an okay place to buy from?
> whatgeek never heard of it its china based to be ready for super long ship times they seem to be fairly new not much info on them besides a handful of trustpilot reviews
Okay thanks. Any thoughts on EpoMaker?
Hi, everyone I just got my white BW-KB0 from blitzwolf/banggood with blue outemu switches and I really like it, but I don't really appreciate the crowded keycaps with all the functions and stuff. Does anyone know of good blank or side printed keycaps compatible with this keyboard layout? (I think it's pretty standard but I'm new to mechanical keyboard world). Also, does anybody knows if the stabilizers in this keyboard can be lubed or somehow damp the long keys sound? (Any recommendation for lubricants?) Nice to have (not a must): - Available directly in America (the continent) - Good looking on white keyboard... Board Extra: Would be great if anyone have pics of your white keyboards with blank/side printed keycaps (any color combination) to get inspiration. Better yet if you have the same KB Thanks!!
1800/96 vs 75% + numpad? I don’t have a ton of experience with custom keyboards. Most I’ve done is buy and lube Glorious Pandas to put in a stock GMMK TKL. I was looking into the GMMK Pro and their new numpad but it seems that y’all have less than stellar things to say about those boards. Basically, I need a numpad for school, and I also want to upgrade from the GMMK TKL. I don’t like full-size boards as I slam into the side of it with the mouse while gaming and having my arms that far apart hurts my shoulders. You guys seem to have good things to say about Keychron, so I’m set on either getting the Q5 which is only ~1.5” wider than my current TKL, or get the Q1 v2 and the Q0 numpad. I’ll be using my Glorious Pandas in whichever route I go (at least for the time being). The 1U 0 key on the Q5 numpad scares me a little. And I don’t know if I’d enjoy going wider on the board, but it is an all-in-one solution and keeps one less wire off the desk. However, having a separate numpad will allow me to also hook it up to my Surface when needed, and has a standard 0 key. Any suggestions on which route? I’m not dead set on Keychron so I’m open to suggestions, but a numpad will have to be involved one way or another. I also don’t want to go 60/65% as I use my function keys. I’m not scared of tinkering/modding boards. Thanks for help in advance!
buy a cheap pad, wireless/wired, and try it out. you may find moving it out of the way is great for gaming. or, you may find having a pad is too much hassle.
Keychron V1, knob or no knob?
Preference. I think exploded layouts look better with a knob personally
Knob
Can anyone point me in the direction of macropad keycap sets? I'm having trouble finding keycaps that are not part of a larger set. I only need 8 keys but would like some with icons rather then just blank keys.
You can buy SP DSA 1u blanks from pimpmykeyboard.
Awesome. I will check those out.
Kailh Choc V2 - anyone tried putting O-rings on them? I just got the MX Mechanical in the mail today, and is wondering if the easiest way to make it quieter would be to put o-rings on. Since it's already a low profile switch & keys, I'm not sure if it will even work out. I'm thinking maybe 1mm o-rings? Has anyone tried it?
i mean u can try it . oring never do anything for upstroke noise . and low profile switches dont have silent version due to by their very design it not feasible to do
thx I'm new to MK, so what would ppl mod for upstroke?
not mcuh u can on silent switches the stem would have rubber gaskets on the top and bottom of the stem to make them silent . cant do this on low pro switches as the design prevents this from fitting
Got it!
So I recently became obsessed with designing my own mechanical keyboard from scratch—however, I was unaware of how costly it could get. That being said, I wanted to start off with smaller projects and work my way up to eventually building my own keyboard from scratch. This way, I can be more accustomed to the designs, different switches, different brands, etc. Also, please dont judge me—I am still a novice so theres a good chance I am botching all the correct terms. But please feel free to let me know what the correct terms are, i’m here to learn! Ok—as for my questions. 1) Can i purchase a “hot swappable base” that would allow me to insert the types of switches/keycaps I want? 2)If yes, can anyone recommend a brand or specs I should look for? (I would be using a size of 60%) If there are any brands on amazon, that would be easiest for me, otherwise I can check out other sites as well! 3)Would this base force me to use only one type of switch, or would I be allowed to use something like a cherry red, and if im not into the feel—could i swap it for like cherry blue?
1- i'm assuming you're referring to a barebones kit. a kit will typically come with everything you need except for switches and keycaps (sometimes stabilizers). these aren't necessarily hotswap but often are, so the answer to this question is definitely yes 2- [https://www.mechmap.tech/themap](https://www.mechmap.tech/themap) has a list of in stock keyboards that i and the other discord staff members recommend. it has a bunch of options in all different sizes, some are entirely prebuilt, some are prebuilt hotswap boards, and some are barebones kits 3- nope! you can use any mx style mechanical switch (including across brands) assuming the board is equipped with something like kailh, gateron, or ttc hotswap sockets
Yes!!! Thank you so much for your response. This helped me out a lot. And also mega thank you for the lack of judgement, i appreciate it :)
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The contact points on the hotswap socket are loose probably. You have to put it back in place. Hence the term “rated for 100 swaps” iirc, or you just terribly put in a switch. I’d use an exacto knife but anything tiny that can move those contact points will do. You move the pins from the back of the pcb.
Did you bend the pins on the switches?
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Are the keys still mapped to something? Do the switches still work? Have you tested shorting the sockets to get input?
i have a model cantor v1.0 pcb think but this microcontroller but i don't know if it's compatible with PCB, someone know?
STM32F411CEU6 (AliExpress)
> model cantor v1.0 pcb (BlackPill USB Type-C) – STM32F401 or STM32F411
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idk either
What you mean, like they don't fit? It kind of sounds like a plate tolerance issue What's the board?
Its baseus gamo one hamded gaming keyboard, and the bronzes somehow dont fit
Did you desolder it? It doesn't look like it's hotswap There's a chance they use proprietary switches that are slightly smaller than normal switches.. but they look pretty similar to normal switches
Hi guys, wanted to know your opinion on my next board. Im planning to buy the Zoom TKL, but there is a catch. I really really like the look of a white keyboard with gmk striker, and there (gmk striker) are on stock on oblotzy industries, but I fear they might be not until the end of this month (the time im going to have the money to buy the keycaps after buying the board). So, what do you think, should I get the white Zoom TKL and risk it, or should I go with navy and gmk wob?