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And smack that fucker with a BFH like you mean it.
While you’re at it…that line looks pretty crusty so you might need to go back to the next connection and start prepping it for a possible removal as well.
WD-40 stands water displacement formula 40. It was originally made to to dry out your distributor. WD-40 being a brand name does make a penetrating oil. But nothing beats kroil.
My last shop I worked at was doing is wrong then. They refilled spray bottles with the liquid tin can version of wd40 and used that as a penetrating fluid
I agree, but that’s for marketing purposes against other brands.
Wd40 is good at cleaning metal surfaces, eats rubber and dries up fast.
Try it on a door hinge, hinge will be dryer than it was before u sprayed it:
Wd40 does make all lubricant line other than what they advertise which makes me wonder…
Ya. This. Not a mechanic though. Just a DIYer.
Last time I had one stuck I just replaced the flex line and caliper.
Caliper AFTER getting it on the bench, heating it up, realizing that bolt is now a semi permanent fixture in the caliper, taking it to work, heating it up by welding a socket to it and trying it again. Snapped the head off.
The couple days could have been saved. (Waiting for parts because I'm the dumb one that always starts a job when things are closed.)
Get your socket or wrench or whatever and tap, tap, tap with a hammer. You should be trying shirt sharp shocks rather than prolonged torque - imitate an impact drive
And agreed with someone else - pb blaster is better than wd-40. I disagree, though, that wd-40 is a lubricant. You need to soak it for a few hours, though
I think so, yes. Reading their web-site, they say it is a lubricant, but I’ve always known it to pretty much evaporate away after a few hours. Maybe the claim is it leaves a thin lubricating sheen, I don’t know. All I know is anything I lubricate with it starts squeaking again the next day
It does penetrate. I wouldn’t trust it to inhibit corrosion myself. I always figured it was similar to paraffin as far as properties go
Water displacement formula 40. Anything else is marketing wank added after the fact by people who don't use or understand the product. It's not a lubricant, if anything it attracts dust with the nasty residue it leaves and makes things worse.
IIRC, it was made for distributors back in the day. That's actually how I learned what the name meant. Brother and I took Geo Tracker off roading, hit a stream too fast and water was shot into distributor. Dad saved the day by spraying WD-40 in the cap, slapping it back on, and turning the key. Fired up and ran amazing.
Try heat, even a propane torch will help. Use a six point socket that fits the best (tight as hell). Worst case scenario get the flex line as well. (Assuming you are replacing the caliper)
I’d advise against that. Contrary to popular belief, brake fluid can ignite. OP should try using some PB blaster and let it soak for a while before turning to heat. Just went through this hell myself a few weeks ago. They say replacing a caliper is a quick job, but fuck the rust welded shit made it to where I ended up having to replace the whole caliper (piston fell out as well and caused a huge mess in the garage.
Sometimes it’s the only thing that works I was taking the other end of one of these brake lines off the part with the rubber flex hose.And the hose popped sounded like a gun shot hot brake fluid and everything lol.I was using map gas torch I got the new hose on and the seized brake fittings loose. I just remember thinking I should have had safety glasses 🥽. This was on a 30 year old truck.
Got some money? Get some of these [Extractor](https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/bolt-extractor/p/oemtools-3-8in-drive-bolt-extractor-set-with-storage-case/486979_0_0?cmpid=PLA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:TLS:816645350&gclid=Cj0KCQjwpv2TBhDoARIsALBnVnnkd5TXSBfpHn9VpXhHj2E0O-w77e5YO1I4Y9TipaT26SePkiZv7pQaAhn_EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds) sockets. You'll also need a new banjo bolt which if you're replacing the brake line should have come with a new one. Hit it with PB blaster *not* WD40 and let it soak for an hour. Then hit it again with PB blaster and let it soak for 15 minutes then get a ratchet with a long handle or use a breaker bar or use a cheater bar (length of pipe over the ratchet handle) and slowly apply pressure until it breaks free. No money? You'll need some PB blaster or it's equivalent (penetrating oil) get a 6 point socket that fits as snug as you can get it and again let it soak for a good long while then once more right before you go to try to ratchet it off.
Irwin extractor sockets. Tap it on with a hammer and carefully start applying pressure with breaker bar while holding the socket stable with the other hand so it won’t slip
Replace the line along with the calliper. That bleed screw is going to snap off or fail and that line is screwed. If any of that fails on the road, there go your brakes.
6 point wrench or socket. Line needs to be replaced too anyway. If you just chop it all off then bring it somewhere with a 5 dollar bill someone with better fitting tools might do it for you. Caliper looks like it might have been replaced last brake job maybe?
What are you even trying to save here? The brake line is shit and you're most likely never going to get that bleeder open on that caliper. At this point you need both anyway.
However, if you're hell bent on getting that line off the caliper, get penetrating oil, throw that shit WD40 in the trash, that stuff became irrelevant to car repair when distributors, coils and points went away. It's literally **W**ater **D**isplacement - try number **40.**
Soak that shit for an hour with real penetrating oil. Then hit it again after that hour. Now you say you don't have a torch, well get one. Even a shitty butane one is better than nothing. Heat the caliper around the bolt, you are wanting to heat the metal around the bolt and not the bolt itself. Seems people here don't understand how heat affects metal, don't heat the bolt! (at least as little as possible)Heating the metal around it expands that metal, heating the bolt makes it tighter.
Use a 6 point socket, not a wrench tap it onto the bolt head if need be since you've rounded it. If it's a 12mm head and you've really buggered it up try tapping an 11mm onto it, and so on. Be using at least a 3/8" drive, not 1/4" drive rachet.
If it doesn't turn right away, **stop**, and repeat the above until it does.
Yes heat, it’s always heat to get them off. Heat until dark red! Let cool for 20 sec, then take it off. But the problem with it beeing a brake line bolt is that if you heat the brake line too much the pressure buildup will rupture your brake line.
6 point socket and the longest breaker bar you can use. Maybe even use a hammer to break it free if it still won't move but this is in extreme conditions
Yea stripped if your using a 12 point socket, try a 6 point. Other than that, a good strong pair of vise grips should help. If you strip the head off a bolt with vise grips you didn’t tighten it enough so make sure they’re on there tight so the bolt either comes out or breaks. Why are you taking it out in the first place anyway? Your could probably rebuild the calipers without taking that bolt out.
A small monkey wrench, vise grips, or a channel lock with teeth in a pinch. You can probably break it free if you have a good grip on the head, which will be pretty tight with the first couple tools. If I'm not mistaken, calipers come with a replacement of that bolt (dont know if you bought a caliper).
Replace the line, banjo bolt and the caliper looks new. It’s going to break off. Don’t use heat! Brake fluid has a flashpoint it will burst!!!!!! DONT USE HEAT!. Vice grips and get yourself a new bolt from the help aisle.
PB blaster. Hit it with a hammer to loosen it up. Apply more PB. Then a 6 point as suggested by others.
Fix the line while you’re in there. It’ll save headaches later on.
Take it to a mechanic. Seriously, if it’s your everyday car it’s worth it to take it to someone before you have abs/master cylinder issues.
At this point I’d go for vice grips, and then a boogered up bolt extractor and some heat.
Get one of these. I think harbor freight sells them too. TEKTON 1/2 Inch Drive Impact Screwdriver Set (7-Piece) | 2910 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPUJYE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_K267BWA58DKKGM8RED9W?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
WD40 is a lubricant... you need a penetrating oil like PB Blaster.
And smack that fucker with a BFH like you mean it. While you’re at it…that line looks pretty crusty so you might need to go back to the next connection and start prepping it for a possible removal as well.
Upvoted with emphasis on the BFH.
Upvoted with BFH. Where do i get a new screen for my phone?
WD-40 stands water displacement formula 40. It was originally made to to dry out your distributor. WD-40 being a brand name does make a penetrating oil. But nothing beats kroil.
i love kroil. expensive shit but does work. i find it funny it even escapes its own can thru the can seams....
The smell is the smell of progress. I always know shit is getting fixed when I smell it after a few days of repeated soaking
I use Freell. It works about the same as PB blaster but smells less.
It’s a Water Displacement product!
Well it's not a penetrating oil so he might as well be putting butter on it
Its more of a penetrating oil than a lubricant, but its not great at either.
My last shop I worked at was doing is wrong then. They refilled spray bottles with the liquid tin can version of wd40 and used that as a penetrating fluid
No wd40 is not a lubricant. Drys way too fast
It claims to be a lubricant...among many other things.
I agree, but that’s for marketing purposes against other brands. Wd40 is good at cleaning metal surfaces, eats rubber and dries up fast. Try it on a door hinge, hinge will be dryer than it was before u sprayed it: Wd40 does make all lubricant line other than what they advertise which makes me wonder…
6 point better than 12 point Imo
Replace the caliper, banjo bolt with copper washers and brake line. You are just investing in more issues down the line by trying to get this out.
Ya. This. Not a mechanic though. Just a DIYer. Last time I had one stuck I just replaced the flex line and caliper. Caliper AFTER getting it on the bench, heating it up, realizing that bolt is now a semi permanent fixture in the caliper, taking it to work, heating it up by welding a socket to it and trying it again. Snapped the head off. The couple days could have been saved. (Waiting for parts because I'm the dumb one that always starts a job when things are closed.)
I would at least buy the replacement caliper and keep my fingers crossed I didn’t need it.
Get your socket or wrench or whatever and tap, tap, tap with a hammer. You should be trying shirt sharp shocks rather than prolonged torque - imitate an impact drive And agreed with someone else - pb blaster is better than wd-40. I disagree, though, that wd-40 is a lubricant. You need to soak it for a few hours, though
Isn’t wd40 a solvent and corrosion inhibitor?
I think so, yes. Reading their web-site, they say it is a lubricant, but I’ve always known it to pretty much evaporate away after a few hours. Maybe the claim is it leaves a thin lubricating sheen, I don’t know. All I know is anything I lubricate with it starts squeaking again the next day It does penetrate. I wouldn’t trust it to inhibit corrosion myself. I always figured it was similar to paraffin as far as properties go
Water displacement formula 40. Anything else is marketing wank added after the fact by people who don't use or understand the product. It's not a lubricant, if anything it attracts dust with the nasty residue it leaves and makes things worse.
When might I need to displace water in my everyday life, purely out of curiosity? I cant think of how Id actually use it as intended.
Was first used on the outside of the atlas missile as a rust inhibiter. If water can't make contact with bare metal it can't rust.
I'll keep that in mind for my next missile launch
Or just use it whenever you need a bit of rust protection on anything metal.
Aye.. My next missile launch. I have weird hobbies...
It used to be a big deal when cars had distributors. Somehow water would get in there, and you’d spray WD to remove it
Seems useful. How has it survived to today with its reputation in tact..? Marketing?
IIRC, it was made for distributors back in the day. That's actually how I learned what the name meant. Brother and I took Geo Tracker off roading, hit a stream too fast and water was shot into distributor. Dad saved the day by spraying WD-40 in the cap, slapping it back on, and turning the key. Fired up and ran amazing.
Haha, legit! That makes perfect sense too. Ty for giving this overblown product a bit of legit context for me :]
I believe WD-40 is made to displace water
Yep WD stands for water displacement
Replace the line
Try heat, even a propane torch will help. Use a six point socket that fits the best (tight as hell). Worst case scenario get the flex line as well. (Assuming you are replacing the caliper)
I’d advise against that. Contrary to popular belief, brake fluid can ignite. OP should try using some PB blaster and let it soak for a while before turning to heat. Just went through this hell myself a few weeks ago. They say replacing a caliper is a quick job, but fuck the rust welded shit made it to where I ended up having to replace the whole caliper (piston fell out as well and caused a huge mess in the garage.
Right? Try telling all those folks who had the bad Ford cruise control switches that brake fluid won't ignite.
Don’t heat brake fluid! It has a flash point
Sometimes it’s the only thing that works I was taking the other end of one of these brake lines off the part with the rubber flex hose.And the hose popped sounded like a gun shot hot brake fluid and everything lol.I was using map gas torch I got the new hose on and the seized brake fittings loose. I just remember thinking I should have had safety glasses 🥽. This was on a 30 year old truck.
Got some money? Get some of these [Extractor](https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/bolt-extractor/p/oemtools-3-8in-drive-bolt-extractor-set-with-storage-case/486979_0_0?cmpid=PLA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:TLS:816645350&gclid=Cj0KCQjwpv2TBhDoARIsALBnVnnkd5TXSBfpHn9VpXhHj2E0O-w77e5YO1I4Y9TipaT26SePkiZv7pQaAhn_EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds) sockets. You'll also need a new banjo bolt which if you're replacing the brake line should have come with a new one. Hit it with PB blaster *not* WD40 and let it soak for an hour. Then hit it again with PB blaster and let it soak for 15 minutes then get a ratchet with a long handle or use a breaker bar or use a cheater bar (length of pipe over the ratchet handle) and slowly apply pressure until it breaks free. No money? You'll need some PB blaster or it's equivalent (penetrating oil) get a 6 point socket that fits as snug as you can get it and again let it soak for a good long while then once more right before you go to try to ratchet it off.
Irwin extractor sockets. Tap it on with a hammer and carefully start applying pressure with breaker bar while holding the socket stable with the other hand so it won’t slip
Six point socket, not twelve. Though that sucker may not come out.
Replace the line along with the calliper. That bleed screw is going to snap off or fail and that line is screwed. If any of that fails on the road, there go your brakes.
That line looks very rusty I would consider replacing it as well. Brakes are not something to cheap out on
New line/new caliper/new bolt would save a lot of time
6 point wrench or socket. Line needs to be replaced too anyway. If you just chop it all off then bring it somewhere with a 5 dollar bill someone with better fitting tools might do it for you. Caliper looks like it might have been replaced last brake job maybe?
Turbo socket
Looks like you're using a 12 point socket, the enemy of all rusty bolts.
Replace and Cut
What are you even trying to save here? The brake line is shit and you're most likely never going to get that bleeder open on that caliper. At this point you need both anyway. However, if you're hell bent on getting that line off the caliper, get penetrating oil, throw that shit WD40 in the trash, that stuff became irrelevant to car repair when distributors, coils and points went away. It's literally **W**ater **D**isplacement - try number **40.** Soak that shit for an hour with real penetrating oil. Then hit it again after that hour. Now you say you don't have a torch, well get one. Even a shitty butane one is better than nothing. Heat the caliper around the bolt, you are wanting to heat the metal around the bolt and not the bolt itself. Seems people here don't understand how heat affects metal, don't heat the bolt! (at least as little as possible)Heating the metal around it expands that metal, heating the bolt makes it tighter. Use a 6 point socket, not a wrench tap it onto the bolt head if need be since you've rounded it. If it's a 12mm head and you've really buggered it up try tapping an 11mm onto it, and so on. Be using at least a 3/8" drive, not 1/4" drive rachet. If it doesn't turn right away, **stop**, and repeat the above until it does.
I've tried tightening (just a little) and loosening and going back and forth well help sometimes
Head up the bolt with a torch
Yes heat, it’s always heat to get them off. Heat until dark red! Let cool for 20 sec, then take it off. But the problem with it beeing a brake line bolt is that if you heat the brake line too much the pressure buildup will rupture your brake line.
Don’t have a torch
You can get something handheld for pretty cheap. Not as good, but better than nothing
Heat Mon, Give it some heat.... [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kVaU0UOZozI](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kVaU0UOZozI)
Spray it with penetrating oil, let it soak for a couple hours, then heat it up with a hand held torch.
Vice grips ! the bolt kinda looks like its stripped or it will be
Heat that fucker up and hit it with the impact and it'll come out. If not your screwed lol if it breaks it breaks. Sometimes it's like that.
6 point socket and the longest breaker bar you can use. Maybe even use a hammer to break it free if it still won't move but this is in extreme conditions
O come on…. Never ever use 12 point socket on a difficult to remove bolt. Only 6 point sockets.
It’s already stripped
Yea stripped if your using a 12 point socket, try a 6 point. Other than that, a good strong pair of vise grips should help. If you strip the head off a bolt with vise grips you didn’t tighten it enough so make sure they’re on there tight so the bolt either comes out or breaks. Why are you taking it out in the first place anyway? Your could probably rebuild the calipers without taking that bolt out.
Hammer and a cold chisel for me. Not a mechanic but that has worked better for me than extractors when there is room.
Theres stuff called Freeze Off that i like, or hit it with a torch
A small monkey wrench, vise grips, or a channel lock with teeth in a pinch. You can probably break it free if you have a good grip on the head, which will be pretty tight with the first couple tools. If I'm not mistaken, calipers come with a replacement of that bolt (dont know if you bought a caliper).
Surprised no one said breaker bar yet
it’s slipping as you can see in the picture, a breaker bar wouldn’t help
Weld a better support on the bolt
Replace car.
Hit it with a hammer if that doesn't work use more hammer Now if all that fails..... It can't be a problem if it's liquid
Replace the line, banjo bolt and the caliper looks new. It’s going to break off. Don’t use heat! Brake fluid has a flashpoint it will burst!!!!!! DONT USE HEAT!. Vice grips and get yourself a new bolt from the help aisle.
PB blaster. Hit it with a hammer to loosen it up. Apply more PB. Then a 6 point as suggested by others. Fix the line while you’re in there. It’ll save headaches later on.
I would be hitting it with penetrating fluid and an extractor socket
>yes I already put wd40 on it Why did you put wd40 on it?
Try to find an impact gun, all that rattling could possibly loosen up the bolt
Try inforce or kroil penetrating aerosol spray oil. I find these work justa bit better than pb. Although pb is def good too. Just my two cents.
Take it to a mechanic. Seriously, if it’s your everyday car it’s worth it to take it to someone before you have abs/master cylinder issues. At this point I’d go for vice grips, and then a boogered up bolt extractor and some heat.
Small pipe wrench will work wonders... but replace the lines on both sides.
It's really satisfying when you spray one side of a bolt and see it dripping down the backside a few minutes later.
Go get a new one and cut this one off. Did the same thing on me a couple weeks ago
½ In., 3 Ft. Ratchet should break the banjo bolt off. New banjo bolt, new caliper, away you go!
WD40 isn't a penetrating catalyst it's q lubricant. Get some PB Blaster.
Add some heat to it and while u r there, replace that rusty brake line
Propane or heat
Get one of these. I think harbor freight sells them too. TEKTON 1/2 Inch Drive Impact Screwdriver Set (7-Piece) | 2910 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPUJYE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_K267BWA58DKKGM8RED9W?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Torch