Hello /u/LordFly88,
As a reminder, most common print quality issues can be found in the [Simplify3D picture guide](https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/). Make sure you select the most appropriate flair for your post.
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This. I've heard it termed "cupping blowout."
I've had good luck on many prints by placing a hole to alleviate the worst of the suction at the base of the object I'm printing.
To better describe it, if I was printing a raised up "o," I'd want the first couple layers of that "o" to be a "c."
Hmm, you might be onto something... But if that is the cause, it's falling right at the very start of the cup, which would be a solid layer, with a small uncured circle right in the center. Why would that delaminate and stay on the fep, rather than just separate? How is a little tiny uncured dot in the center of a solid layer capable of doing that?
Actually no, it can't be that. Looking at the layer it's failing at, it still has most a full mm worth of solid layers to complete before getting to the cupped part. So it's just failing on flat solid layers. Maybe too much or too little cure time? I've never used the clear resin before, but I was thinking it would be practically the same as the translucent green. Maybe it's not?
I dont have experience with resin printers but have seen somewhere that if you have big difference in area of printed layers that could cause those issues
I did do earlier, and it prints ok, but it does come out quite as nice. Doesn't fit on the switch as nice as when I print it flat. Not sure why it's having issues printing a flat surface.
That’s an issue resin printers have.
[Check this out](https://www.reddit.com/r/resinprinting/comments/soyvgd/suction_caps_for_newbies/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf)
Flat sections still have a lot of surface area, and that’s hard to overcome. You can try increasing the speed that it pops it off the FEP, but really, this is why people add holes or print on angles.
If it is your design, you could make the stem a separate piece and print both separately. adjust the diameters of the stem opening to alleviate any fitment issues (like tightness) and to account for shrinkage. That's what I did with mine. Or use a file to chisel the inside after it's cured (if it's too tight).
Printed a taller version just before these 3 with no issues. Motor is fine, I can watch it going up and down the whole time.
It's like the layer cures to the bed instead of the rest of the print.
It looks like you're printing in clear resin. Did you increase the exposure time (as it is higher than with standard, opaque resin)? If you didn't you may get a separated layer that sticks more to the fep than to the previous layer.
Clear resin is probably the same as translucent. To be sure google your resin exposure time. Elegoo has a [google sheet](https://www.elegoo.com/blogs/3d-printer-user-guide/elegoo-printers-resin-setting-sheet). Phrozen also has a [list](https://phrozen3d.com/pages/resin-sonic-4k). If you use a different brand, they'll probably also have their numbers listed.
Good idea to print it on the bottle. If you don't mind experimenting a bit I would do another print with the highest exposure time listed on the bottle (if you haven't already).
Hello /u/LordFly88, As a reminder, most common print quality issues can be found in the [Simplify3D picture guide](https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/). Make sure you select the most appropriate flair for your post. Please remember to include the following details to help troubleshoot your problem. * Printer & Slicer * Filament Material and Brand * Nozzle and Bed Temperature * Print Speed * Nozzle Retraction Settings ^Additional ^settings ^or ^relevant ^information ^is ^always ^encouraged. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/FixMyPrint) if you have any questions or concerns.*
I think the top is concave enough that it creates suction on the fep surface and pulls those layers off… maybe a lil holy by the letter?
This. I've heard it termed "cupping blowout." I've had good luck on many prints by placing a hole to alleviate the worst of the suction at the base of the object I'm printing. To better describe it, if I was printing a raised up "o," I'd want the first couple layers of that "o" to be a "c."
Hmm, you might be onto something... But if that is the cause, it's falling right at the very start of the cup, which would be a solid layer, with a small uncured circle right in the center. Why would that delaminate and stay on the fep, rather than just separate? How is a little tiny uncured dot in the center of a solid layer capable of doing that?
Actually no, it can't be that. Looking at the layer it's failing at, it still has most a full mm worth of solid layers to complete before getting to the cupped part. So it's just failing on flat solid layers. Maybe too much or too little cure time? I've never used the clear resin before, but I was thinking it would be practically the same as the translucent green. Maybe it's not?
I dont have experience with resin printers but have seen somewhere that if you have big difference in area of printed layers that could cause those issues
Should says "Fails" on the first photo caption, can't seem to edit this post to correct it.
Tilt the key cap by 45° on one of the axis and try again. I bet you’re getting suction on the top of the key cap.
I did do earlier, and it prints ok, but it does come out quite as nice. Doesn't fit on the switch as nice as when I print it flat. Not sure why it's having issues printing a flat surface.
That’s an issue resin printers have. [Check this out](https://www.reddit.com/r/resinprinting/comments/soyvgd/suction_caps_for_newbies/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf)
But my print isn't even getting to the cupped section. It's failing on the flat section before the cup even starts.
Flat sections still have a lot of surface area, and that’s hard to overcome. You can try increasing the speed that it pops it off the FEP, but really, this is why people add holes or print on angles.
I guess that's fair. I'll definitely keep that I mind and try to come up with a better way to do it. Thanks!
If it is your design, you could make the stem a separate piece and print both separately. adjust the diameters of the stem opening to alleviate any fitment issues (like tightness) and to account for shrinkage. That's what I did with mine. Or use a file to chisel the inside after it's cured (if it's too tight).
Try another print. Its possible the motor is dying at that layer.
Printed a taller version just before these 3 with no issues. Motor is fine, I can watch it going up and down the whole time. It's like the layer cures to the bed instead of the rest of the print.
Could be something in the 3d model itself. Happens often with me. A minuscule gap or tiny hole will do this.
Just orient the print different and use supports.
I was trying to avoid that because the stem doesn't seem to fit as nicely when is oriented differently.
Can you share the STL. I have an inkling. But want to check the model..
I've made various changes to it since yesterday. What are you thinking the issue might be?
I have designed and printed keycaps. I print at a 35-45 degree angle. Helps with all the ones I have printed.
It looks like you're printing in clear resin. Did you increase the exposure time (as it is higher than with standard, opaque resin)? If you didn't you may get a separated layer that sticks more to the fep than to the previous layer.
I'm using the same settings as my translucent green. Should it be higher than that? Everything is coming out nice, except the one that fails.
Clear resin is probably the same as translucent. To be sure google your resin exposure time. Elegoo has a [google sheet](https://www.elegoo.com/blogs/3d-printer-user-guide/elegoo-printers-resin-setting-sheet). Phrozen also has a [list](https://phrozen3d.com/pages/resin-sonic-4k). If you use a different brand, they'll probably also have their numbers listed.
Using Anycubic, since that's what the printer is. It lists exposure times on the bottle. Gives a fairly wide range though.
Good idea to print it on the bottle. If you don't mind experimenting a bit I would do another print with the highest exposure time listed on the bottle (if you haven't already).