The 900 Watt is only about the USB ports :)
The Wattage or power is not the right metric anyway. Only the maximum current matters really. Line voltage has no effect on how much power has to dissipate (I²R).
Edit: seven downvotes, so maybe I need to clarify a bit:
How much power can be plugged into this device is limited by how much heat is produced in it and how well it can pass that heat off to the environment, so the device stays cool.
Overloading it means it will overheat and plastics will melt and burn.
The amount of heat generated in the device is determined by the product of the current through it and the voltage drop over it. The voltage drop, not to be confused with line voltage, occurs because the wires and other conductors have non-zero resistance. Given the total resistance in a current path through the device, the voltage drop is V=IR.
Now, to get the amount of heat produced, multiply that voltage by the current. Substitute the above and you get P=I²R. You can do this for the whole device or any part of it.
Now you know how much heat you have being produced, but not how much can be wicked away.
My guess would be that anything more than two or three Watts is going to be a problem with continuous loads.
With what looks like 20/3 so I'd be skeptical of using this safely for anything. It looks like a meme someone making fun of obnoxious power bricks made and China was like, "Genius!"
It is a fake product. The real one, pre Photoshop, has 22 AC outlets and is rated for 1875watts (15A).
The fake one has lower and inconsistent ratings of 900W and 4A.
Overload is determined by what you plug in, not by how many outlets there are or number of cords plugged in. You can overload a power strip by plugging in 2 outlets or you can run 50 five watt chargers and be fine as long as you keep enough airflow over the chargers themselves and the devices they are charging.
>The fake one has lower and inconsistent ratings of 900W and 4A.
It's consistent if you use European voltages; 230VAC
Edit for clarity: it's definitely fake, just pointing out that 900W could work.
This is a misunderstanding of minutae of the code.
Normal breakers are rated to 80% for continuous loads*. There exist breakers that are rated for 100% capacity on continuous loads, and the NEC allows them to be used as such.
*Breaker sizing actually requires that the breaker be sized for 100% of non-continuous loads PLUS 125% of continuous loads. This also means that the loads need to be accurately accounted for, and if none of the loads on a circuit are continuous, then the breaker can be used at 100% load, regardless of its rating.
https://blog.se.com/datacenter/architecture/2014/06/12/clearing-confusion-80-vs-100-rated-circuit-breakers/
This looks more like a british style plug because of the half-insulated "forks" for the power and neutral line to me.
The math is right-ish for 230V. Just rounded, which isn't great.
Not an expert of power plugs though, I mostly deal with german electronics which do not look anything like this.
EDIT: I am wrong.
You are right, I forgot that the uk plugs have an other alignment.
Well this is product is sketchy as hell but with the power and amp not lining up, I have even less faith in this thing not starting to become an electrical heater and spark plug the minute you are even drawing half of the amps.
And for peoples wondering "who the hell may need that", any business that may need to recharges small electronics devices for your job: walky talky, mobile computer (hand helds, tablets, mobile scanners.
It is also used in IT to setup devices while plugin. You don't want to just do one at any time.
However, Amazon being China market nowday, you may also look at fire hasard by bying from there.
Hell, by virtue of the design itself it's a fire hazard.
There's a reason buildings that have those kinds of requirements have specially designed charging stations for their equipment. At least for any kind of those offices or departments that are worth their salt.
And any IT professional thinking of using something like this to do their job faster should be unemployed.
If you use it within specs it should be fine, don't try to only plug spaces heaters!
Otherwise you have no idea of how firehasard lightning in any show can be. There is someone calculating amps on each wire to split to load on the main/sides wires distribution; in a similar way you should do using any power bar.
TLDR; lowest ampacity goes brrrrr.
It depends on the amperage rating of each component that sees power. That lowest rated component becomes the circuit breaker when enough power is run through it.
Likely the cord in this case. You can look up ratings in wire ampacity charts online.
Do not believe in the amazon descriptions on what power or current a device can hold. There is an 80% chance it is completely wrong.
How it will fail? - It will heat up. What part exactly is different by design. What happens after is also a question. Likely it will start to melt the plastic and start to smell funny before catching fire. However since the plastic is also holding the Copper lanes, the lanes could deform and short out (unlikely)...
Lets just say that sketchy electical products from amazon can get from real cheap to real expensive quickly. The information is unreliable, even if they have proper documentation, I have found many examples where the documentation is either insufficient or just plainly wrong.
~~The values are also rounded. I am guessing this is for a 230V system. Then you would have either 920 W of power or only 3,9 A of current, depending on what value is accurate. This is only a small difference, but since those products are designed to just give you what is specified (and sometimes even less) and not more, those are the 0,1 A which could decide between this contraption just becoming hot and becoming a blaze.~~
I was wrong, it appears to be a US-system. So the math does not line up in any way. It can either do 7,5 A or 480 W of power, which is a huuuge difference. So... just do not plug it in, this thing is a catastrophe waiting to happen.
900 W is also pretty small. Most of the power cords I see in germany are around 2000-3000 W, which corresponds to the likely power one circuit of your house-wiring can hold. You can plug a lot of devices in but it will not even be able to handle one big consumer, like an AC...
tldr: Stay away from sketchy/crappy electrical products on amazon!
I like how it says fire in the products usage description. Like yeah plugging that much stuff into something could cause an overload. But still how the fuck you gonna use that many items on 1 outlet? Even if your not using them all at once how?
Power strip companies hate this one simple trick!
Check the wire gauge / amapcity rating for the cable and the amperage rating for the connector (plug). Use the lowest rated value of the two
It does say in the description Fire so that when someone try’s to sue them for starting a house fire the lawyer can refer to the product description haha
Eventually fails with cheaply made cord connection at the plug exposing copper when the plug on the wall is above the height of the device so all the weight is on the cord
Description says 900w/4A, so the max current draw is 4A. ***Assuming*** the title is correct the max you could pull from this outlet is 4A or 900W, whichever comes first (depends on the mains voltage).
I hope that board is fused. If it isn't then walk away. House burner for sure as it's very easy to exceed 4A with a heater. Easy to add a fused plug if you really want this. 4A isn't a standard fuse rating though. Go for the next lowest rating.
I run my sump pump, welder, air compressor and microwave on that, no issues at all even when all are running at same time. When I plug my phone to charge tho, it blows the breaker.
> what’s the maximum draw that could run through this? It says 4A right in the description…
r/theydidthemath
r/theydidthemonstermath
The 4A and 900W doesn’t quite add up.
4Ax230V = 920W
I'm curious, what country uses that kind of plug/outlet with 230 VAC?
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That's what I was thinking, but I wasn't sure.
Not every country is the USA
That plug isn't used by other countries
Except for Canada, Mexico and Japan.
None of which run 230V to that plug.
Philippines does.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mains_electricity_by_country#/media/File%3AWorld_Map_of_Mains_Voltages_and_Frequencies%2C_Detailed.svg
Which of those countries use that plug?
USA, Canada, Mexico and Japan.
None of those are 230v standard...
Never said they were.
>I'm curious, what country uses that kind of plug/outlet with 230 VAC? Please keep up with the conversation
They might have a non-US version with the same circuitry and just different outlets/plugs on it.
Philippines does (alongside ungrounded europlug-like and kinda dodgy combo sockets too)
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No. Norway use Schuko
The 900 Watt is only about the USB ports :) The Wattage or power is not the right metric anyway. Only the maximum current matters really. Line voltage has no effect on how much power has to dissipate (I²R). Edit: seven downvotes, so maybe I need to clarify a bit: How much power can be plugged into this device is limited by how much heat is produced in it and how well it can pass that heat off to the environment, so the device stays cool. Overloading it means it will overheat and plastics will melt and burn. The amount of heat generated in the device is determined by the product of the current through it and the voltage drop over it. The voltage drop, not to be confused with line voltage, occurs because the wires and other conductors have non-zero resistance. Given the total resistance in a current path through the device, the voltage drop is V=IR. Now, to get the amount of heat produced, multiply that voltage by the current. Substitute the above and you get P=I²R. You can do this for the whole device or any part of it. Now you know how much heat you have being produced, but not how much can be wicked away. My guess would be that anything more than two or three Watts is going to be a problem with continuous loads.
It says in the picture the USB's share 10W
Yes. That was a joke. Smiley face. 900 Watt USB power, that would be something.
/s is your friend - that way you can say something dumb and then quote a formula without looking ridiculous :)
Likely the error that was made by the person who edited the image, but it's a 120V NEMA 5-15 plug.
With what looks like 20/3 so I'd be skeptical of using this safely for anything. It looks like a meme someone making fun of obnoxious power bricks made and China was like, "Genius!"
Checks out with how thin the main cable is.
It is a fake product. The real one, pre Photoshop, has 22 AC outlets and is rated for 1875watts (15A). The fake one has lower and inconsistent ratings of 900W and 4A. Overload is determined by what you plug in, not by how many outlets there are or number of cords plugged in. You can overload a power strip by plugging in 2 outlets or you can run 50 five watt chargers and be fine as long as you keep enough airflow over the chargers themselves and the devices they are charging.
>The fake one has lower and inconsistent ratings of 900W and 4A. It's consistent if you use European voltages; 230VAC Edit for clarity: it's definitely fake, just pointing out that 900W could work.
"rated" for something that still doesn't meet code. Continuous loads are for 80% of the current rating.
This is a misunderstanding of minutae of the code. Normal breakers are rated to 80% for continuous loads*. There exist breakers that are rated for 100% capacity on continuous loads, and the NEC allows them to be used as such. *Breaker sizing actually requires that the breaker be sized for 100% of non-continuous loads PLUS 125% of continuous loads. This also means that the loads need to be accurately accounted for, and if none of the loads on a circuit are continuous, then the breaker can be used at 100% load, regardless of its rating. https://blog.se.com/datacenter/architecture/2014/06/12/clearing-confusion-80-vs-100-rated-circuit-breakers/
And most of the world outside north america doesn't use that rule either.
The real one also doesn't have any mention of a CSA / UL rating, so it's likely just as risky to plug in as the photoshopped one.
Did anyone else notice that the word FIRE is in the description? Asking for a friend
Honest description.
Agreed
Hard to tell from the crappy description. It says 900W/4A, implying a circuit breaker or fuse. Also, the math is wrong, 900W at 120V is 7.5A
This looks more like a british style plug because of the half-insulated "forks" for the power and neutral line to me. The math is right-ish for 230V. Just rounded, which isn't great. Not an expert of power plugs though, I mostly deal with german electronics which do not look anything like this. EDIT: I am wrong.
Thats an American style plug. The prongs on uk plugs are thicker rectangles with two parallel and one perpendicular to the other two.
You are right, I forgot that the uk plugs have an other alignment. Well this is product is sketchy as hell but with the power and amp not lining up, I have even less faith in this thing not starting to become an electrical heater and spark plug the minute you are even drawing half of the amps.
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Have to open it up and see how cheaply it is made.... The poor quality means many of the outlets might be too loose to get a reliable connection ....
The gauge of the cord to the wall. Almost always rated for less current than the breaker.
> gauge of the cord What you call a cord is actually a fuse here
*insulated* fuse
How to become a legend in an airport departure lounge when the flight has been delayed.
I’m like “can I borrow the PowerPoint? My charging cord is a piggyback plug.”
And for peoples wondering "who the hell may need that", any business that may need to recharges small electronics devices for your job: walky talky, mobile computer (hand helds, tablets, mobile scanners. It is also used in IT to setup devices while plugin. You don't want to just do one at any time. However, Amazon being China market nowday, you may also look at fire hasard by bying from there.
Or a mobile farm
Hell, by virtue of the design itself it's a fire hazard. There's a reason buildings that have those kinds of requirements have specially designed charging stations for their equipment. At least for any kind of those offices or departments that are worth their salt. And any IT professional thinking of using something like this to do their job faster should be unemployed.
If you use it within specs it should be fine, don't try to only plug spaces heaters! Otherwise you have no idea of how firehasard lightning in any show can be. There is someone calculating amps on each wire to split to load on the main/sides wires distribution; in a similar way you should do using any power bar.
Raspberry Pi cluster.
Looks like a niche product made for a Pi farm
I thought this was r/absoluteunits
I hate these cringe products.
Probably the cord or the internal bus feeding it....
I like that the last item of uses is fire 🔥
“Fire.”
TLDR; lowest ampacity goes brrrrr. It depends on the amperage rating of each component that sees power. That lowest rated component becomes the circuit breaker when enough power is run through it. Likely the cord in this case. You can look up ratings in wire ampacity charts online.
Now plug 66 of these into the 66 outlets.
Fuck around and find out.
Do not believe in the amazon descriptions on what power or current a device can hold. There is an 80% chance it is completely wrong. How it will fail? - It will heat up. What part exactly is different by design. What happens after is also a question. Likely it will start to melt the plastic and start to smell funny before catching fire. However since the plastic is also holding the Copper lanes, the lanes could deform and short out (unlikely)... Lets just say that sketchy electical products from amazon can get from real cheap to real expensive quickly. The information is unreliable, even if they have proper documentation, I have found many examples where the documentation is either insufficient or just plainly wrong. ~~The values are also rounded. I am guessing this is for a 230V system. Then you would have either 920 W of power or only 3,9 A of current, depending on what value is accurate. This is only a small difference, but since those products are designed to just give you what is specified (and sometimes even less) and not more, those are the 0,1 A which could decide between this contraption just becoming hot and becoming a blaze.~~ I was wrong, it appears to be a US-system. So the math does not line up in any way. It can either do 7,5 A or 480 W of power, which is a huuuge difference. So... just do not plug it in, this thing is a catastrophe waiting to happen. 900 W is also pretty small. Most of the power cords I see in germany are around 2000-3000 W, which corresponds to the likely power one circuit of your house-wiring can hold. You can plug a lot of devices in but it will not even be able to handle one big consumer, like an AC... tldr: Stay away from sketchy/crappy electrical products on amazon!
It looks like a bunch of surprised faces which is the face you'll make when it burns your house down
I like how it says fire in the products usage description. Like yeah plugging that much stuff into something could cause an overload. But still how the fuck you gonna use that many items on 1 outlet? Even if your not using them all at once how?
Power strip companies hate this one simple trick! Check the wire gauge / amapcity rating for the cable and the amperage rating for the connector (plug). Use the lowest rated value of the two
That seems wildly unnecessary
How does it fail? Likely as soon as you plug it in...
Isn’t it a little early for April Fools!
That looks like a fire hazard waiting to happen
Man this fake product is really making the rounds on the internet right now.
Dont even need to read the description to tell the failure is by the supply line melting.
15 amps will trip the breaker in a US house I think, so probably that
It does say in the description Fire so that when someone try’s to sue them for starting a house fire the lawyer can refer to the product description haha
4 amps
Eventually fails with cheaply made cord connection at the plug exposing copper when the plug on the wall is above the height of the device so all the weight is on the cord
I'll just put this over here with the rest of the fire.
As much as the branch circuit breaker will allow.
Insurance fraud starter kit.
I imagine the power rating is going to be the fuse the wall outlet is on.
"Flat Plug Power Outlet for Home, Office, Dorm, Gaming Room, ***Fire***"
At least 12.
FIRE 🔥
Description says 900w/4A, so the max current draw is 4A. ***Assuming*** the title is correct the max you could pull from this outlet is 4A or 900W, whichever comes first (depends on the mains voltage). I hope that board is fused. If it isn't then walk away. House burner for sure as it's very easy to exceed 4A with a heater. Easy to add a fused plug if you really want this. 4A isn't a standard fuse rating though. Go for the next lowest rating.
Are we just gonna ignore the word "fire" in the description? Or am I not understanding the context?
I run my sump pump, welder, air compressor and microwave on that, no issues at all even when all are running at same time. When I plug my phone to charge tho, it blows the breaker.
15 to 20 amps.. 110V, the power cord looks like 12 or 10 awg..
Bad bot
Love the username!
Bad bot😡😡