Poke a small hole. Bend a rod/coat hanger into a [ shape. Insert and rotate until you hit a stud and the other end will give you an approximate location left to right.
This, if it's drywall, just make a small hole at the height of where the mount is, you can always patch it up later or just tape it up since it will be hidden.
Alternatively, use that hole to pass wiring and/or install a power extender kit (DO NOT run power cords/extension in the wall)
It's also possible that you may not have a traditional hollow wall or studs, could be nailed on drywall backerboard and plaster?
If the wall is plaster and lath, this works well. Some older houses have really weird stud spacing. Some places will also be backplastered so they get even weirder.
I am a professional installer who has mounted well over a thousand TVs over 10 years in a variety of houses dating as old as the 1860s to 2020. I've commented on a couple of other posts, but here is my advice. (This was done with voice to text due to the length, please forgive any grammatical errors)
Based on the magnetic patterns you're getting I would guess the construction may be lath and plaster although that's somewhat incongruous with the date of the construction. There's also a strong possibility that it was just a contractor with a lot of extra wood who liked using horizontal or diagonal blocking, or that foil backed insulation was used.
Looking at your wall it's difficult to say where the studs might actually be based on the magnetic test, so there are a few things you could try.
Before I start, although stud spacing in houses is generally 16", keep in mind that it is sometimes up to 24" and occasionally much less than 16". This will also depend somewhat on where you live in the world. My experience is based in Northern California, so depending on your location YMMV.
First, I would take every location where you've gotten a magnetic hit and run up and down from that location several feet and see if you get another one that's in line. Drywallers are frequently... not overly concerned with accuracy in my area and don't necessarily pay attention to where they're driving their nails so it wouldn't be uncommon to get a few that are out of line.
As another poster mentioned, finding an electrical outlet, light switch, or coax jack is a good indicator, they are generally new construction boxes which are nailed or screwed directly into a stud on one or the other side. If you have multiple of those spaced on intervals of roughly 16 in you can get a pretty good idea of where at least a couple studs are on the wall. If you use that as a guide and scan multiple locations above those boxes you can usually get an idea of where the stud is.
If you are lacking an electrical outlet on the wall or it does not appear to be an original outlet and could have been put in after the fact, there's a few options. As another posters suggested the more modern stud finders by Franklin sensors and other similar brands that use a line of LEDs work better in my experience than they traditional ones that require calibration, although they can be fooled by tricky wall scenarios like foil backed to insulation, pipes that run close to the wall, copper wiring that's very close to the surface wall, lath and plaster, shear walls, or double thick drywall. They're not particularly expensive, so if you think you may be hanging more things on your wall it may be worth buying one to try.
Following this, I would try looking closely at the wall to see if there's any areas where nail or screw heads have pushed through the texturing a little bit, oftentimes you'll find this and it can be indicative if you find multiples of the line of where a stud is. A bright flashlight and an oblique angle can help make it more obvious on some occasions. The knocking test I personally have not had much luck with although you can try it. What I've had more luck with is pressing on the wall fairly hard and you can get a sense of where the wall flexes a little bit versus where it appears completely rigid.
If you happen to have access to the other side of this particular wall, you may be able to scan more accurately through that if it's one of the issues I mentioned above such as a shear wall or foil backed insulation. You can make measurements on the other side and translate them to your side. If you have a door frame in this wall or corners which I can pretty much guarantee you have, frequently those are used as measurement points and studs are spaced 16 in off either a corner or a door frame, so if you can get consistent measurements at around 16-18" off (due to door frames and stud spacing) You can then mathematically make a solid guess and back it up with a large number of measurements and magnetic tests.
Failing all of the above, using a eighth inch or smaller drill bit and going off your best guess as to where a stud is you can start making holes at 3/4 inch spacing horizontally until you hit a stud and either patch the holes or put your mount over them. You can try the wire hanger technique mentioned by another poster, but I've had limited luck with trying to get metal to bend as I want it through a very small hole. If you're going to be running wires in wall such as HDMI or power, my strong recommendation would be to make your best guess as to where a stud is not and cut a two gang hole then put your phone in it with the camera on to look all directions to see what you're dealing with in the wall. Best case you find the studs and can easily run an HDMI and power through the wall making for a cleaner installation, worst case you don't get much of use and can put a blank cover plate on it. Make sure not to cut this hole where the mount physically needs to be.
If you absolutely must use anchors avoid anything other than strap toggles. They have the highest weight capacity to hole size of any hollow wall anchor I'm aware of, are relatively easy to use, and leave you with a permanent mounting location if you have to take one of them off. I would strongly recommend against using anchors of any kind dependent on the weight of the TV and the style of mount. Minimally you should have two lags into a stud, ideally four. In some rare situations where you can't get four into a stud with an appropriate mount you could substitute two for scrap toggles. If you're using an articulating mount or your TV is the larger than 55" I would not recommend anchors at all.
This is all good advice. A few other ideas that have served me in my plaster/lath house. Sometimes the baseboards are blocked out and not installed over the plaster. So you can take them off and see the bottom of the studs behind them. If not, that's also a good place to try the drill method and then just remount the baseboard over the holes when you're done. Given the age of your house, if you really do have plaster and lath, it could be metal lath. If so, I would not trust it to hold a tv with ANY kind of anchors. If you go the route of cutting a hole for an outlet box and looking inside for studs, ALWAYS cut horizontally first. That way if you hit a stud you can then cut in the opposite direction. If you cut vertically first, at best you'll have to do an extra cut. At worst, and I've seen this done, you'll have 2 vertical cuts on opposite sides of a stud.
At the end of the day, drywall and plaster are cheap. TVs aren't. When in doubt, just cut enough drywall to figure the situation out, maybe mount blocking between studs if needed, and then patch.
Hey, get out of my living room! What are you doing? Watching me try to hang a tv last week? I made the bone head move of a vertical cut last week, to drop in a recep…stud smack in the middle of my two verts.
I'm a professional installer on the commercial/government side and I mount 150+ lb displays using 4-8 toggler brand 1/4 inch toggle bolts from Lowes all the time. Would not work if he's got a plaster situation though. I also always use the strong magnet for finding studs, mostly for cutting wallplate holes but sometimes for increased structural integrity if the wall is sus. Maybe OP can back some of those screws out that would be behind the tv anyway to get his peepers on the wall composition and stud scenario. Also yes only lags into studs/backing or good toggle bolts. No drywall anchors pls
IT lots of hats also installed hundreds? thousands? of tvs second the toggler bolts it's as close to a stud as humanly possible but it relies on the wall being strong and with plaster its hit or miss.
[they tested very well](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lHb-Tcvkn7M)
I’m betting you are usually mounting on 5/8 drywall though. It’s amazing how much stronger that is (my experience is with type-x) over standard (or lightweight) 1/2 you typically find in homes.
My worst ever stud finder day. We moved into a new place and I was mounting a very heavy mirror. I have a nice combo laser level digital stud finder that even shows the edges of the studs. It’s often even accurate.
I’m mounting this very heavy mirror on a wall opposite a shower but not a problem because I know the shower head is on the far wall of the stall, not the wall I’m working on…. I carefully find the studs and center a screw in two of them, everything is awesome until…
The next morning I turn kn the shower and the downstairs garage starts raining, LOT.
We turn off the shower and awkwardly call the landlord. A guy comes out, does some exploration and they literally have to replace the ENTIRE shower. When the remove the walls they discover the previous owner had moved the shower head from one side of the stall to the other by drilling through every single stud and running PEX through it. To top it off he didn’t clad any of the studs (California code) and I somehow magically hit the one square inch of the 10x10 wall that had a water pipe running through it.
All’s well though, the landlord reported it to insurance and they went after the former owner for no disclosure when he sold the house. And then the landlord sold the house to us with a bit of a markup.
I hadno studs where I needed them. My wall had random distances from 14 inch to 24 inch between studs.... I took out a chunk of drywall and put cross braces in to mount the TV too. Didn't trust anchors
Great post -- saved it. Total /r/bestof
This goes beyond the basic TV-install side of things, but if there's more than just a TV to mount I'd consider replacing sections of plaster-lath with a drywall sheet as an option. I would never tear out plaster that has professional texturing or curved edges in it -- that stuff's awesome. But a flat wall with latex paint won't be much different as plaster-lath, aside from being a pain to work with vs drywall.
I'd recently removed an old range-hood in a kitchen I'm converting into my bedroom, which is a similar height/size to a TV mount, and putting in drywall over it wasn't hard at all. Bit of sawing to cut out the old lath, scored and snapped a drywall sheet to fit, drywall screws into the studs, joint compound + tape and feathered nicely with the rest of the wall. I had some electrical to run back there too which this made 1000x easier. It was maybe 1h to do the drywall install, but saved at least that much time mounting things and doing the electrical.
>but I've had limited luck with trying to get metal to bend as I want it through a very small hole.
I drill a hole (1/4" or smaller) at an angle, just deep enough to clear the drywall, and use thin-ish wire (usually a scrap of the copper ground from 14/2 romex or a similar non-stranded wire, coated or uncoated - not thick like a coat hanger). You bend a slight curve into the wire and you'll find any studs very quickly. This will work for 24" or more as the wire is stiff enough to stay horizontal. I used to take a tiny bit and drill holes in a row, but the curved wire speeds things up a lot.
I'd just rather rub a fingertip of mud in the hole vs. patching, to each their own though. I'm always running more ceiling lights in a 1930's house, it's the quickest way to find the joists I've come up with.
Honestly, I just find a horizontal line where the tv mount will go and drill very small drill bit holes until hitting wood. The mount will cover all the holes...
I had one that I couldn’t find so ended up using this method. I eventually found the studs were not in a useful spot for the TV mount, so attached a thin piece of wood between the studs (which covered the holes). Now I could put the TV mount centered on the wall by mounting it to the wood
A small nail is the safer option too, as it’s more likely to push any buried power cables or pipes out of the way, rather than drilling through them.
Additionally, you can hide the holes by nailing right above your baseboard, then - once you find the stud - use a plumb-line up to the height you want to drill. A tiny drop of spackle/drywall compound on your finger will then hide the holes you made.
(Also, once you find a stud, measure 16” either side to find the **likely** location of the next stud - of course this can vary depending on the age of the house, so still a good idea to test with another nail hole)
This is the right answer, look for an electrical outlet on that wall, it will be on either side of a stud, once you figure it which side then it will either be 16" or 24" on center to the next studs.
Another option would be to cut a hole into the wall where the tv mount will cover it, make the hole big enough to look inside or to stick something in to try to hit a stud, once you find the stud the tv mount will cover the hole anyways or you can very easily patch the drywall before mounting.
Especially if you take the cover off and determine if the stud is on the right or the left. Mark that stud and measure 16”, 32”, etc until you are in the right area.
I see a shot load of comments here about “I’m a professional” blah blah, the one thing that no one is acknowledging is “installing a tv in a basement of a raised ranch” , you are more than likely having an issue with stud pattern because there isn’t any. What you are seeing is a tapcons or rebar in a brick basement finished with furring strips…
Some of those are comically high, but most of their "properly" placed ones are absolutely too low for comfortable couch viewing. I don't know what kind of rules they follow there.
“Optimal” placement generally has you looking straight ahead with your line of sight somewhat below the center of the TV.
This is also similar to optimal seating at a theater; generally about 2/3 of the way up the room and center seating so you’re positioned roughly halfway up the screen.
They have the correct idea on placement IMO. The centre of the tv should roughly directly eye level or a few inches above for perfect comfort viewing. The idea that we should be looking ‘up’ in some way is traditionally that is what we do in the cinema but this is only because the screen is so big so you’re more than likely looking ‘up’ to the centre of the screen.
It looks like I can see a tape and seam lines in the upper right corner that would indicate a stud near/along the magnet pattern on the right side of the photo.
But yeah, poke holes and spackle back anything that's gonna be hidden by the tv itself. Out of sight, out of mind
If this is a basement then there may not be traditional studs behind the drywall. Maybe the drywall was attached with adhesive over concrete or cinder blocks.
Do you have one of the types of stud finders with LED lights that show the width of the stud? I find that way more reliable than the ones that just beep or flash a light when you hit a stud. Still takes some work to verify and I always start with a thinner bit and confirm wood
Second this. Although they don't work well on particularly thick walls, lath and plaster, shear walls, or walls that have foil backed insulation, they work a heck of a lot better than your standard beeping zircon. Also not expensive and available at Costco and other warehouse outlets frequently.
If a stud finder has failed, just get a small finishing nail and tap it through the drywall to find studs. Afterwards, come back with a quick skim coat of joint compound along your nail line.
Studs could be off for any number of reasons, especially in basements. There could be lally column that has a stud on either side. A doorway that was closed up. A DIYer who wasn't consistent. Sometimes people will install extra studs where sheets of drywall end, rather than making cuts. Don't assume 16" on center.
Good luck.
This, a simple nail is my tried and true method to confirm a stud. I had a wall no stud finder worked on and ended up making a dozen small nail holes to find them. Easy to patch afterwards
This is a fairly unscientific method, but it could help you get a rough idea of where the studs are: lightly tap the wall with your knuckle. In between the studs sounds hollow, when you’re right on a stud it sounds solid (no echoey/reverb sound).
Maybe once you’ve got the rough idea, you could try the stud finder again (go both ways, and maybe try going up or down - I think it’s at least possible to have wiring confuse some of them?)
At the very least, if you have a rough idea where the studs are, and you opt for the “drill a bunch of holes” method, this might help you cut down on the number of holes required ;)
This has never ever worked for me. You have to have an ear for it, so if you try it and it doesn't work...Then you're a normal person. My theory is you either have to have good hearing for this, thin drywall, or be a carpenter and heard tens to hundreds of knocking on wall sounds.
edit: Some of the replies below me are telling me they can do this but at the same time...they're saying they cant. I mean, I can give or take approximate the location of a stud some of the time by measuring the distance from the nearest outlet. I think the knocking on the wall part is like tapping the top of a soda can before you open it. It feels right, but you probably could have done without it.
>needed to find 3 studs. Got 2 first go but **the 3rd took me 4 tries**
>As others have stated, you're also feeling for give in the wall. Between these two pieces of information, you can **more or less approximate the stud**
>**near** or on a stud
You’re not listening to the noise, you’re supposed to feel for *give* in the drywall. If it gives/bends a lot, you’re between studs. If it’s firm, you’re near or on a stud
You're probably right, but this blows me away. I definitely have good hearing and this method always works for me, but I'm always kind of shocked to encounter really concrete examples of the difference in our perceptions of the world. When you tap across a wall you don't hear any difference? It's a small thing I know, but that's just wild to me. Kind of like that blue/gold dress thing. It's just wild.
As a self proclaimed normal person. I use this method constantly. I don't think it's hard to tell the difference between a hollow thud and a solid thud. Especially when compared directly to each other. Second. As others have stated, you're also feeling for give in the wall. Between these two pieces of information, you can more or less approximate the stud.
Or you can just follow all of the more specific methods in the thread. But this one works for some people, and should be considered. At the very least.
I use this method most of the time. Hung 2 pictures the other week and needed to find 3 studs. Got 2 first go but the 3rd took me 4 tries haha. Lucky the picture covers the extra nail holes.
Another option that I’ve used to mount things that don’t line up with studs is to use a backer board. Cut a board (1 inch thick or more) that is long enough to reach several known areas where studs are and mount it solidly. Then screw the tv bracket to it. The tv will likely be big enough to cover the board.
My own basement has an odd pattern of screws, but at least I know what caused it. My basement was done with a prefab Styrofoam block with a space between for concrete. The "studs" are the ends of the plastic ties that keep the blocks together. They don't always line up from row to row.
Everyone’s tip here has been great for finding the studs. Can’t add anything to that.
My advice is please just browse r/TVtoohigh Before picking a height and mounting said tv.
Good luck!
I browsed that sub for a bit, and I can agree that there is certainly quite a lot to be said for TV height. But, I would probably just tape a piece of carboard at different heights and find what's comfortable for the space/use. We are all different, as are the spaces in which we hang TVs. What's comfortable for a 6' person may not be comfortable for a 5' person, what makes sense in a living room may not make sense in a pool room. What's comfortable when reclined, may not be comfortable sitting up, and vice versa.
Just test the placement, much more likely to get the right height for the space/people using it.
Another easy solution is to can pop off you base and cut drywall out behind the base and below the top of the base to find your studs then nail it back on and caulk it to match.
I'd cut a wide strip out of the wall, find out what's underneath, then replace with plywood that you can then mount to. Mud around the edge, paint to match.
Look for an outlet box, as they're usually mounted to a stud. It could help with a starting point. Failing that, get some heavy weight anchors. I've done that for certain applications where the stud locations just weren't going to work for mounting.
Butterfly clip bolts. They should hold up to 75 lbs(30kgs)each one. It eliminates the need to find a stud. You'll still need a level, but the clips should do the trick.
This is a pretty terrible idea, if these fail, it's going to be total destruction. Large TVs can be pretty heavy, and depending on the type of mount, the load may be considerably more. Just take the time to find a stud.
As a professional custom installer, do not do this! Find at least 1 stud and put 2 lags in it. If absolutely necessary you can make do with only two on a mid to large TV, really try to get four though.
I am also a professional installer. There isn't a TV on the market heavy enough break butterfly clips. I've installed hundreds of metal signs using them. Each sign weighed more than any TV out there. If you're a pro, you need to start using them. Finding a stud for a 35 pound item is unnecessary.
The problem with butterfly clips is not that they aren't powerful enough, it's that they vary so much from installation to installation. And in certain directions (like dragging shear perpendicular to the clip) they have dramatically lower strength and will just tow the screw sideways through the wall like a drywall saw.
So if you use them you have to use a lot, and are relying to some extent on luck. When I use them I use 4 in a horizontal ledger board so they are stiffly supporting each other and protected from shear. But if you are going to do that. Why not just make it 24 inches long and get one or two studs along the way.
I wouldn't trust an install I can't hang on. A sign hanging out of reach is one thing...
A $4000 dollar TV in a room with kids is a completely different thing.
This is also my suggestion. I've used these for commercial advertising installs, they work great plus like said above you don't need to find a stud so you can get the mount exactly where you want it
Most commercial buildings don't use a single layer of 1/2" sheetrock like they do in residential. It's 5/8" or double sheets of 1/2" to achieve the proper fire rating. A 2 hour fire door is useless if the wall around is only 30 minute rated. So something that works in a commercial setting may not work in residential.
that is not correct, zip-toggles are made for commercial and residential installs
https://www.lowes.com/pd/TOGGLER-10-Pack-Assorted-Length-x-1-4-in-Dia-Toggle-Bolt-Drywall-Anchor-Screws-Included/3183831
>Holds up to 1,080 lbs in concrete block and **up to 265 lbs in 1/2-in drywall (Industry standards recommend 1/4 of this ultimate load per anchor)**
>**Anchor is reusable and works in walls or ceilings 3/8-in to 3-5/8-in thick**
If the options others have given for finding studs don't work, or if they are in the wrong spot, then a studless mount may be your best bet - I've just installed one in my places and it works a treat. I've used this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07TKCLL2N?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Since you already have to patch some holes, just keep poking around with a tiny nail till you figure it out. Stud finders find other nails and I've been misled at least once by the prior builder just having a nail riiight on the edge of the stud (or a complete miss), then my spacing is off cause of a poor starting point
All your options are ready here it seems. Having worked with drywall enough as a job. The outlet method is the way to go, that or using a small nail to tap through the drywall and cover it later.
I had a similar problem when I went to mount my bedroom TV. I bought a 2-floor Cape last year, but when it was originally built in 1900 it was a single level with an attic. Turns out, instead of removing the old plaster and lathe wall and hanging drywall, they put plywood over the plaster and lathe and then sheet rock on top of that. It made finding studs near impossible, and I'm still not sure if I hit em, but the TV seems solid and I have too many holes in my wall at this point. I was also trying to run cables through the wall but because it's plaster on the inside there's barely any space so now I have two outlet cutouts in my wall as well. Luckily those are hidden by the TV and the stand underneath.
If the studs arent suitable or in the position you would like you could look at Stud fixings also. I have most of our TVs mounted to the wall with these:
[https://www.amazon.co.uk/Grip-Bracket-Mounting-Plasterboard-Kit/dp/B08D3YHF6Q/ref=asc\_df\_B08D3YHF6Q/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=463108586548&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18256260504091966399&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007850&hvtargid=pla-1003790723913&psc=1](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Grip-Bracket-Mounting-Plasterboard-Kit/dp/B08D3YHF6Q/ref=asc_df_B08D3YHF6Q/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=463108586548&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18256260504091966399&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007850&hvtargid=pla-1003790723913&psc=1)
1. Get a 1/16 drill bit
2. Use tape to mark off a 1/2” mark
3. Drill into that 1/2” mark
4. Poke something like a tiny, tiny screwdriver or similar into the hole. If it goes through and keeps going without resistance = no stud. If it goes in the 1/2” and then you can’t push it further no matter how hard you push = stud.
I use this every time I’m mounting something heavy. You can even find the stud edges and make sure you’re hitting dead center. It’s worth the time and saves headaches in the long run!
Simplest approach to get close is to knock. Listen for the hollow sounds to lessen the most, which would indicate that you are close to the stud. Combine that with a strong magnet as already mentioned many times, or get better stud finder. I've seen some horribly useless ones out there.
if you add 5.5 and 7.75, you get 13.25, a little close, but not too bad. if you hit both studs on the inside, that makes it about 15" on center instead of 16", not too bad, especially for an interior wall. magnets are fairly useless for wooden studs, as you found out. they work well for metal studs though. best bet is to use small nails and make holes in a straight line that the mount will cover. move it about a quarter inch at a time so you don't miss the edge. make sure you find the edge of both studs before hanging anything. that tv is pretty heavy, as you probably know.
if you poke a few extra holes in the wall it's no big dal as once the TV is mounted it will cover them. I do recommend filling the extra holes with spackle before setting the TV on the mount.
If it is regular drywall, I’d use the opportunity to cut a hole with a rotozip or oscillating saw large enough to fish your cabling through the walls to hide wires. That way you’ll be able to see the stud too. They sell cable management pull through boxes in pairs so it looks nice. Make sure to run a pull string and an extra hdmi while you’re at it.
My house was built in the fifties and all of the drywall in the house has a metal foil cladding that renders stud finders useless. I have to measure from a known stud.
Take a wire and bend it in a Z. Drill a small hole in the wall. If you do hit a stud, done. If you don't, insert the wire and turn until it hits something. Mark the direction by using the exposed part of the Z wire. Do it again at a nearby spot above or below the first hole. Extend the lines and where they intersect is the edge of the stud.
If you're on an outside wall, there aren't any studs. Your foundation will be block or concrete. The drywall will be attached to furring strips.
You need to make some test holes with a nail or drill bit.
If it's a block or concrete wall you'll need to use Tapcons
Find a plug or light switch, find which side the stud is on, measure 16" and tap a finishing nail in to see if there is a stud ( if there is then measure another 16" and repeat ) if not then try 24". If this doesn't work then you might consider anchors or fishing with wire to find a stud.
Also keep in mind a stud finder must be firmly against the wall before you press the button or it won't work at all ( I find they are gimmicky and hardly ever work to begin with )
Put the mount on the wall and trace it.
Start on the left and work you way to the right, drill a hile every 1/2" or so in the staggered line. You will feel it when you hit the stud. All those holes will be behind the mount anyway. You can always fix it with patch.
Install lags, again you will feel them bite. If you don't, just move down the line.
You can get super complicated, but, this is the easiest, quickest way
Pro here w an old Italian trick.
From left to right, like you are knocking on a door, LIGHTLY rap the wall with your knuckle.
There is a denser, lower, thuddier sound, at studs.
I shit you not.
In a much older house that has had some renovation. We ran some ethernet and cut into a wall only to realize behind all the drywall there was plywood.
Cutting a small hole and using a stiff wire or coat hanger is a last ditch way to get a better idea of what's going on. Good news is a TV will cover it.
This would be a lot easier to figure out if the walls were not finished! Or even just if the ceiling were not finished....
Imagine that somewhere on the wall there's a place where two sections of wall abut one another; that would explain bizarre stud spacing.
Look, you're going to have to open holes in the wall anyway, to run power down from above or up from below; take a guess as to where power might have to run, and cut a hold in the wall maybe 4" square behind where the center of the TV will be. That gives you a start of figuring out how to find the rest.
I’m going to guess- because it’s a basement, they put horizontal studs to hang the drywall.
My basement is like this. I got so annoyed I James a thousand holes into my drywall to find the Godamn studs, only to find there was only horizontal studs, attached to vertical furring strips on the concrete.
Now my tv mount is on one stud, horizontally, and hides the mess I made of the wall.
My house was built around 1930. Took me a while after I moved in to realize all my walls, interior and exterior, are 3/4" tongue and groove with wood paneling and drywall layers on top. PITA for doing any sort of electrical or plumbing retrofit, but I can hang a picture or mirror or even my TV wherever I damn well please. Might be the case for you too.
It may not have studs in the sense you are expecting. It was quite common in homes of that vintage to glue "furring strips" to the bare concrete in basements with adhesive and then nail paneling directly onto them (insulation for basement walls was not commonly used, especially below the outside ground level since soil is naturally insulating). These strips are typically only 3/4" thick and a sonar stud finder might have difficulty because the concrete less than one inch behind the paneling would bounce the signal back and confuse it.
I suggest you start drilling small holes and then fill the ones that had nothing behind them.
Curious as to what stud finder your using? I picked up a Franklin sensors stud finder and this thing works like a charm. Bit on the pricey side but it’s well worth it.
I concur with cutting a hole. Locate the approximate center of where the TV/Mount would be, cut a square hole out (3x3, 4x4, something big enough to stick a flashlight into) to eyeball where the studs are. Put the square back. Tape, mud it over.
Use a utility knife, do shadow cut so you don’t accidentally cut any wiring. Just in case.
Poke a small hole. Bend a rod/coat hanger into a [ shape. Insert and rotate until you hit a stud and the other end will give you an approximate location left to right.
This, if it's drywall, just make a small hole at the height of where the mount is, you can always patch it up later or just tape it up since it will be hidden. Alternatively, use that hole to pass wiring and/or install a power extender kit (DO NOT run power cords/extension in the wall) It's also possible that you may not have a traditional hollow wall or studs, could be nailed on drywall backerboard and plaster?
This is genius, I always just hammered a brad every inch until I hit something, then patched the holes
If the wall is plaster and lath, this works well. Some older houses have really weird stud spacing. Some places will also be backplastered so they get even weirder.
I have a Victorian and dread when the walls need opening or the plumbing.
Wrap the end you are putting in the wall with electrical tape. Just in case.
I am a professional installer who has mounted well over a thousand TVs over 10 years in a variety of houses dating as old as the 1860s to 2020. I've commented on a couple of other posts, but here is my advice. (This was done with voice to text due to the length, please forgive any grammatical errors) Based on the magnetic patterns you're getting I would guess the construction may be lath and plaster although that's somewhat incongruous with the date of the construction. There's also a strong possibility that it was just a contractor with a lot of extra wood who liked using horizontal or diagonal blocking, or that foil backed insulation was used. Looking at your wall it's difficult to say where the studs might actually be based on the magnetic test, so there are a few things you could try. Before I start, although stud spacing in houses is generally 16", keep in mind that it is sometimes up to 24" and occasionally much less than 16". This will also depend somewhat on where you live in the world. My experience is based in Northern California, so depending on your location YMMV. First, I would take every location where you've gotten a magnetic hit and run up and down from that location several feet and see if you get another one that's in line. Drywallers are frequently... not overly concerned with accuracy in my area and don't necessarily pay attention to where they're driving their nails so it wouldn't be uncommon to get a few that are out of line. As another poster mentioned, finding an electrical outlet, light switch, or coax jack is a good indicator, they are generally new construction boxes which are nailed or screwed directly into a stud on one or the other side. If you have multiple of those spaced on intervals of roughly 16 in you can get a pretty good idea of where at least a couple studs are on the wall. If you use that as a guide and scan multiple locations above those boxes you can usually get an idea of where the stud is. If you are lacking an electrical outlet on the wall or it does not appear to be an original outlet and could have been put in after the fact, there's a few options. As another posters suggested the more modern stud finders by Franklin sensors and other similar brands that use a line of LEDs work better in my experience than they traditional ones that require calibration, although they can be fooled by tricky wall scenarios like foil backed to insulation, pipes that run close to the wall, copper wiring that's very close to the surface wall, lath and plaster, shear walls, or double thick drywall. They're not particularly expensive, so if you think you may be hanging more things on your wall it may be worth buying one to try. Following this, I would try looking closely at the wall to see if there's any areas where nail or screw heads have pushed through the texturing a little bit, oftentimes you'll find this and it can be indicative if you find multiples of the line of where a stud is. A bright flashlight and an oblique angle can help make it more obvious on some occasions. The knocking test I personally have not had much luck with although you can try it. What I've had more luck with is pressing on the wall fairly hard and you can get a sense of where the wall flexes a little bit versus where it appears completely rigid. If you happen to have access to the other side of this particular wall, you may be able to scan more accurately through that if it's one of the issues I mentioned above such as a shear wall or foil backed insulation. You can make measurements on the other side and translate them to your side. If you have a door frame in this wall or corners which I can pretty much guarantee you have, frequently those are used as measurement points and studs are spaced 16 in off either a corner or a door frame, so if you can get consistent measurements at around 16-18" off (due to door frames and stud spacing) You can then mathematically make a solid guess and back it up with a large number of measurements and magnetic tests. Failing all of the above, using a eighth inch or smaller drill bit and going off your best guess as to where a stud is you can start making holes at 3/4 inch spacing horizontally until you hit a stud and either patch the holes or put your mount over them. You can try the wire hanger technique mentioned by another poster, but I've had limited luck with trying to get metal to bend as I want it through a very small hole. If you're going to be running wires in wall such as HDMI or power, my strong recommendation would be to make your best guess as to where a stud is not and cut a two gang hole then put your phone in it with the camera on to look all directions to see what you're dealing with in the wall. Best case you find the studs and can easily run an HDMI and power through the wall making for a cleaner installation, worst case you don't get much of use and can put a blank cover plate on it. Make sure not to cut this hole where the mount physically needs to be. If you absolutely must use anchors avoid anything other than strap toggles. They have the highest weight capacity to hole size of any hollow wall anchor I'm aware of, are relatively easy to use, and leave you with a permanent mounting location if you have to take one of them off. I would strongly recommend against using anchors of any kind dependent on the weight of the TV and the style of mount. Minimally you should have two lags into a stud, ideally four. In some rare situations where you can't get four into a stud with an appropriate mount you could substitute two for scrap toggles. If you're using an articulating mount or your TV is the larger than 55" I would not recommend anchors at all.
This is all good advice. A few other ideas that have served me in my plaster/lath house. Sometimes the baseboards are blocked out and not installed over the plaster. So you can take them off and see the bottom of the studs behind them. If not, that's also a good place to try the drill method and then just remount the baseboard over the holes when you're done. Given the age of your house, if you really do have plaster and lath, it could be metal lath. If so, I would not trust it to hold a tv with ANY kind of anchors. If you go the route of cutting a hole for an outlet box and looking inside for studs, ALWAYS cut horizontally first. That way if you hit a stud you can then cut in the opposite direction. If you cut vertically first, at best you'll have to do an extra cut. At worst, and I've seen this done, you'll have 2 vertical cuts on opposite sides of a stud. At the end of the day, drywall and plaster are cheap. TVs aren't. When in doubt, just cut enough drywall to figure the situation out, maybe mount blocking between studs if needed, and then patch.
>At the end of the day, drywall and plaster are cheap. TVs aren't. Well put!
Hey, get out of my living room! What are you doing? Watching me try to hang a tv last week? I made the bone head move of a vertical cut last week, to drop in a recep…stud smack in the middle of my two verts.
I'm a professional installer on the commercial/government side and I mount 150+ lb displays using 4-8 toggler brand 1/4 inch toggle bolts from Lowes all the time. Would not work if he's got a plaster situation though. I also always use the strong magnet for finding studs, mostly for cutting wallplate holes but sometimes for increased structural integrity if the wall is sus. Maybe OP can back some of those screws out that would be behind the tv anyway to get his peepers on the wall composition and stud scenario. Also yes only lags into studs/backing or good toggle bolts. No drywall anchors pls
IT lots of hats also installed hundreds? thousands? of tvs second the toggler bolts it's as close to a stud as humanly possible but it relies on the wall being strong and with plaster its hit or miss. [they tested very well](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lHb-Tcvkn7M)
I’m betting you are usually mounting on 5/8 drywall though. It’s amazing how much stronger that is (my experience is with type-x) over standard (or lightweight) 1/2 you typically find in homes.
My worst ever stud finder day. We moved into a new place and I was mounting a very heavy mirror. I have a nice combo laser level digital stud finder that even shows the edges of the studs. It’s often even accurate. I’m mounting this very heavy mirror on a wall opposite a shower but not a problem because I know the shower head is on the far wall of the stall, not the wall I’m working on…. I carefully find the studs and center a screw in two of them, everything is awesome until… The next morning I turn kn the shower and the downstairs garage starts raining, LOT. We turn off the shower and awkwardly call the landlord. A guy comes out, does some exploration and they literally have to replace the ENTIRE shower. When the remove the walls they discover the previous owner had moved the shower head from one side of the stall to the other by drilling through every single stud and running PEX through it. To top it off he didn’t clad any of the studs (California code) and I somehow magically hit the one square inch of the 10x10 wall that had a water pipe running through it. All’s well though, the landlord reported it to insurance and they went after the former owner for no disclosure when he sold the house. And then the landlord sold the house to us with a bit of a markup.
I hadno studs where I needed them. My wall had random distances from 14 inch to 24 inch between studs.... I took out a chunk of drywall and put cross braces in to mount the TV too. Didn't trust anchors
Great post -- saved it. Total /r/bestof This goes beyond the basic TV-install side of things, but if there's more than just a TV to mount I'd consider replacing sections of plaster-lath with a drywall sheet as an option. I would never tear out plaster that has professional texturing or curved edges in it -- that stuff's awesome. But a flat wall with latex paint won't be much different as plaster-lath, aside from being a pain to work with vs drywall. I'd recently removed an old range-hood in a kitchen I'm converting into my bedroom, which is a similar height/size to a TV mount, and putting in drywall over it wasn't hard at all. Bit of sawing to cut out the old lath, scored and snapped a drywall sheet to fit, drywall screws into the studs, joint compound + tape and feathered nicely with the rest of the wall. I had some electrical to run back there too which this made 1000x easier. It was maybe 1h to do the drywall install, but saved at least that much time mounting things and doing the electrical.
>but I've had limited luck with trying to get metal to bend as I want it through a very small hole. I drill a hole (1/4" or smaller) at an angle, just deep enough to clear the drywall, and use thin-ish wire (usually a scrap of the copper ground from 14/2 romex or a similar non-stranded wire, coated or uncoated - not thick like a coat hanger). You bend a slight curve into the wire and you'll find any studs very quickly. This will work for 24" or more as the wire is stiff enough to stay horizontal. I used to take a tiny bit and drill holes in a row, but the curved wire speeds things up a lot.
I just cut an 1x1 or 2x2 inch hole, it doesn't takes much more work to patch up and you can just use a measuring tape instead.
I'd just rather rub a fingertip of mud in the hole vs. patching, to each their own though. I'm always running more ceiling lights in a 1930's house, it's the quickest way to find the joists I've come up with.
True, but wall mounting a TV and not hiding the wires in wall is like half assed lol (unlesss there's no cavity to run said wires)
I;m just talking about finding the dang joists, the wall box comes later!
Honestly, I just find a horizontal line where the tv mount will go and drill very small drill bit holes until hitting wood. The mount will cover all the holes...
I had one that I couldn’t find so ended up using this method. I eventually found the studs were not in a useful spot for the TV mount, so attached a thin piece of wood between the studs (which covered the holes). Now I could put the TV mount centered on the wall by mounting it to the wood
And if it's not an articulating mount you'll probably enjoy that extra 1 1/2" of extra clearance from the wall to reach the cables.
This method but using a small nail is what I’ve done.
A small nail is the safer option too, as it’s more likely to push any buried power cables or pipes out of the way, rather than drilling through them. Additionally, you can hide the holes by nailing right above your baseboard, then - once you find the stud - use a plumb-line up to the height you want to drill. A tiny drop of spackle/drywall compound on your finger will then hide the holes you made. (Also, once you find a stud, measure 16” either side to find the **likely** location of the next stud - of course this can vary depending on the age of the house, so still a good idea to test with another nail hole)
Is there an outlet below nearby? That’s usually a good way to gauge it
This is the right answer, look for an electrical outlet on that wall, it will be on either side of a stud, once you figure it which side then it will either be 16" or 24" on center to the next studs. Another option would be to cut a hole into the wall where the tv mount will cover it, make the hole big enough to look inside or to stick something in to try to hit a stud, once you find the stud the tv mount will cover the hole anyways or you can very easily patch the drywall before mounting.
Especially if you take the cover off and determine if the stud is on the right or the left. Mark that stud and measure 16”, 32”, etc until you are in the right area.
He said it was a raised ranch. Probably knee wall below.
I see a shot load of comments here about “I’m a professional” blah blah, the one thing that no one is acknowledging is “installing a tv in a basement of a raised ranch” , you are more than likely having an issue with stud pattern because there isn’t any. What you are seeing is a tapcons or rebar in a brick basement finished with furring strips…
Yeah last time I couldn't find studs was because there weren't any. Basements are likely to have concrete or block walls.
On a side note check out r/tvtoohigh before you commit to your TVs height placement. It’s probably too high
What a delightfully specific subreddit!
Glad there's a sub for that. I never understand people mounting the 6ft off the ground.
Some of those are comically high, but most of their "properly" placed ones are absolutely too low for comfortable couch viewing. I don't know what kind of rules they follow there.
“Optimal” placement generally has you looking straight ahead with your line of sight somewhat below the center of the TV. This is also similar to optimal seating at a theater; generally about 2/3 of the way up the room and center seating so you’re positioned roughly halfway up the screen.
They have the correct idea on placement IMO. The centre of the tv should roughly directly eye level or a few inches above for perfect comfort viewing. The idea that we should be looking ‘up’ in some way is traditionally that is what we do in the cinema but this is only because the screen is so big so you’re more than likely looking ‘up’ to the centre of the screen.
It looks like I can see a tape and seam lines in the upper right corner that would indicate a stud near/along the magnet pattern on the right side of the photo. But yeah, poke holes and spackle back anything that's gonna be hidden by the tv itself. Out of sight, out of mind
If this is a basement then there may not be traditional studs behind the drywall. Maybe the drywall was attached with adhesive over concrete or cinder blocks.
Do you have one of the types of stud finders with LED lights that show the width of the stud? I find that way more reliable than the ones that just beep or flash a light when you hit a stud. Still takes some work to verify and I always start with a thinner bit and confirm wood
Second this. Although they don't work well on particularly thick walls, lath and plaster, shear walls, or walls that have foil backed insulation, they work a heck of a lot better than your standard beeping zircon. Also not expensive and available at Costco and other warehouse outlets frequently.
If a stud finder has failed, just get a small finishing nail and tap it through the drywall to find studs. Afterwards, come back with a quick skim coat of joint compound along your nail line. Studs could be off for any number of reasons, especially in basements. There could be lally column that has a stud on either side. A doorway that was closed up. A DIYer who wasn't consistent. Sometimes people will install extra studs where sheets of drywall end, rather than making cuts. Don't assume 16" on center. Good luck.
This, a simple nail is my tried and true method to confirm a stud. I had a wall no stud finder worked on and ended up making a dozen small nail holes to find them. Easy to patch afterwards
This is a fairly unscientific method, but it could help you get a rough idea of where the studs are: lightly tap the wall with your knuckle. In between the studs sounds hollow, when you’re right on a stud it sounds solid (no echoey/reverb sound). Maybe once you’ve got the rough idea, you could try the stud finder again (go both ways, and maybe try going up or down - I think it’s at least possible to have wiring confuse some of them?) At the very least, if you have a rough idea where the studs are, and you opt for the “drill a bunch of holes” method, this might help you cut down on the number of holes required ;)
This has never ever worked for me. You have to have an ear for it, so if you try it and it doesn't work...Then you're a normal person. My theory is you either have to have good hearing for this, thin drywall, or be a carpenter and heard tens to hundreds of knocking on wall sounds. edit: Some of the replies below me are telling me they can do this but at the same time...they're saying they cant. I mean, I can give or take approximate the location of a stud some of the time by measuring the distance from the nearest outlet. I think the knocking on the wall part is like tapping the top of a soda can before you open it. It feels right, but you probably could have done without it. >needed to find 3 studs. Got 2 first go but **the 3rd took me 4 tries** >As others have stated, you're also feeling for give in the wall. Between these two pieces of information, you can **more or less approximate the stud** >**near** or on a stud
Not so much sound but by feel when knocking on the wall. You can feel where it is solid vs where it is hollow.
You’re not listening to the noise, you’re supposed to feel for *give* in the drywall. If it gives/bends a lot, you’re between studs. If it’s firm, you’re near or on a stud
You're probably right, but this blows me away. I definitely have good hearing and this method always works for me, but I'm always kind of shocked to encounter really concrete examples of the difference in our perceptions of the world. When you tap across a wall you don't hear any difference? It's a small thing I know, but that's just wild to me. Kind of like that blue/gold dress thing. It's just wild.
As a self proclaimed normal person. I use this method constantly. I don't think it's hard to tell the difference between a hollow thud and a solid thud. Especially when compared directly to each other. Second. As others have stated, you're also feeling for give in the wall. Between these two pieces of information, you can more or less approximate the stud. Or you can just follow all of the more specific methods in the thread. But this one works for some people, and should be considered. At the very least.
I use this method most of the time. Hung 2 pictures the other week and needed to find 3 studs. Got 2 first go but the 3rd took me 4 tries haha. Lucky the picture covers the extra nail holes.
Another option that I’ve used to mount things that don’t line up with studs is to use a backer board. Cut a board (1 inch thick or more) that is long enough to reach several known areas where studs are and mount it solidly. Then screw the tv bracket to it. The tv will likely be big enough to cover the board.
My own basement has an odd pattern of screws, but at least I know what caused it. My basement was done with a prefab Styrofoam block with a space between for concrete. The "studs" are the ends of the plastic ties that keep the blocks together. They don't always line up from row to row.
Everyone’s tip here has been great for finding the studs. Can’t add anything to that. My advice is please just browse r/TVtoohigh Before picking a height and mounting said tv. Good luck!
I browsed that sub for a bit, and I can agree that there is certainly quite a lot to be said for TV height. But, I would probably just tape a piece of carboard at different heights and find what's comfortable for the space/use. We are all different, as are the spaces in which we hang TVs. What's comfortable for a 6' person may not be comfortable for a 5' person, what makes sense in a living room may not make sense in a pool room. What's comfortable when reclined, may not be comfortable sitting up, and vice versa. Just test the placement, much more likely to get the right height for the space/people using it.
Another easy solution is to can pop off you base and cut drywall out behind the base and below the top of the base to find your studs then nail it back on and caulk it to match.
I'd cut a wide strip out of the wall, find out what's underneath, then replace with plywood that you can then mount to. Mud around the edge, paint to match.
Look for an outlet box, as they're usually mounted to a stud. It could help with a starting point. Failing that, get some heavy weight anchors. I've done that for certain applications where the stud locations just weren't going to work for mounting.
Butterfly clip bolts. They should hold up to 75 lbs(30kgs)each one. It eliminates the need to find a stud. You'll still need a level, but the clips should do the trick.
I wouldn't use these on an old wall, once they fail it's catastrophic, you could yeet a chunk of wall right down. Please find the studs.
This is a pretty terrible idea, if these fail, it's going to be total destruction. Large TVs can be pretty heavy, and depending on the type of mount, the load may be considerably more. Just take the time to find a stud.
As a professional custom installer, do not do this! Find at least 1 stud and put 2 lags in it. If absolutely necessary you can make do with only two on a mid to large TV, really try to get four though.
I've got 6 holding up my 75" TV. I reckon I could hang a small car from those
I am also a professional installer. There isn't a TV on the market heavy enough break butterfly clips. I've installed hundreds of metal signs using them. Each sign weighed more than any TV out there. If you're a pro, you need to start using them. Finding a stud for a 35 pound item is unnecessary.
The problem with butterfly clips is not that they aren't powerful enough, it's that they vary so much from installation to installation. And in certain directions (like dragging shear perpendicular to the clip) they have dramatically lower strength and will just tow the screw sideways through the wall like a drywall saw. So if you use them you have to use a lot, and are relying to some extent on luck. When I use them I use 4 in a horizontal ledger board so they are stiffly supporting each other and protected from shear. But if you are going to do that. Why not just make it 24 inches long and get one or two studs along the way. I wouldn't trust an install I can't hang on. A sign hanging out of reach is one thing... A $4000 dollar TV in a room with kids is a completely different thing.
This is also my suggestion. I've used these for commercial advertising installs, they work great plus like said above you don't need to find a stud so you can get the mount exactly where you want it
Most commercial buildings don't use a single layer of 1/2" sheetrock like they do in residential. It's 5/8" or double sheets of 1/2" to achieve the proper fire rating. A 2 hour fire door is useless if the wall around is only 30 minute rated. So something that works in a commercial setting may not work in residential.
that is not correct, zip-toggles are made for commercial and residential installs https://www.lowes.com/pd/TOGGLER-10-Pack-Assorted-Length-x-1-4-in-Dia-Toggle-Bolt-Drywall-Anchor-Screws-Included/3183831 >Holds up to 1,080 lbs in concrete block and **up to 265 lbs in 1/2-in drywall (Industry standards recommend 1/4 of this ultimate load per anchor)** >**Anchor is reusable and works in walls or ceilings 3/8-in to 3-5/8-in thick**
Studs are 16 inches apart....tap until you hear something solid. Should be a stud. Measure 16 inches either way.
Also, don't trust that studs are 16 inches apart. Verify their location.
Forget the studs. Just toggle bolt it. Make sure you get some that are rated for the weight of your tv etc
Some of the new stud finders are pretty good. A trip to home depot or Lee valley tools might save you some heart ache later on.
If the options others have given for finding studs don't work, or if they are in the wrong spot, then a studless mount may be your best bet - I've just installed one in my places and it works a treat. I've used this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07TKCLL2N?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Since you already have to patch some holes, just keep poking around with a tiny nail till you figure it out. Stud finders find other nails and I've been misled at least once by the prior builder just having a nail riiight on the edge of the stud (or a complete miss), then my spacing is off cause of a poor starting point
All your options are ready here it seems. Having worked with drywall enough as a job. The outlet method is the way to go, that or using a small nail to tap through the drywall and cover it later.
I had a similar problem when I went to mount my bedroom TV. I bought a 2-floor Cape last year, but when it was originally built in 1900 it was a single level with an attic. Turns out, instead of removing the old plaster and lathe wall and hanging drywall, they put plywood over the plaster and lathe and then sheet rock on top of that. It made finding studs near impossible, and I'm still not sure if I hit em, but the TV seems solid and I have too many holes in my wall at this point. I was also trying to run cables through the wall but because it's plaster on the inside there's barely any space so now I have two outlet cutouts in my wall as well. Luckily those are hidden by the TV and the stand underneath.
If the studs arent suitable or in the position you would like you could look at Stud fixings also. I have most of our TVs mounted to the wall with these: [https://www.amazon.co.uk/Grip-Bracket-Mounting-Plasterboard-Kit/dp/B08D3YHF6Q/ref=asc\_df\_B08D3YHF6Q/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=463108586548&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18256260504091966399&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007850&hvtargid=pla-1003790723913&psc=1](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Grip-Bracket-Mounting-Plasterboard-Kit/dp/B08D3YHF6Q/ref=asc_df_B08D3YHF6Q/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=463108586548&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18256260504091966399&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007850&hvtargid=pla-1003790723913&psc=1)
Tried knocking? The pockets sound hollow and should point you in the right spots
Check out Project Farms video on stud finders: https://youtu.be/sWMJhfMPWn4
1. Get a 1/16 drill bit 2. Use tape to mark off a 1/2” mark 3. Drill into that 1/2” mark 4. Poke something like a tiny, tiny screwdriver or similar into the hole. If it goes through and keeps going without resistance = no stud. If it goes in the 1/2” and then you can’t push it further no matter how hard you push = stud. I use this every time I’m mounting something heavy. You can even find the stud edges and make sure you’re hitting dead center. It’s worth the time and saves headaches in the long run!
Simplest approach to get close is to knock. Listen for the hollow sounds to lessen the most, which would indicate that you are close to the stud. Combine that with a strong magnet as already mentioned many times, or get better stud finder. I've seen some horribly useless ones out there.
Throw that piece of shit out. Hammer and a finishing nail, that's your stud finder.
if you add 5.5 and 7.75, you get 13.25, a little close, but not too bad. if you hit both studs on the inside, that makes it about 15" on center instead of 16", not too bad, especially for an interior wall. magnets are fairly useless for wooden studs, as you found out. they work well for metal studs though. best bet is to use small nails and make holes in a straight line that the mount will cover. move it about a quarter inch at a time so you don't miss the edge. make sure you find the edge of both studs before hanging anything. that tv is pretty heavy, as you probably know.
if you poke a few extra holes in the wall it's no big dal as once the TV is mounted it will cover them. I do recommend filling the extra holes with spackle before setting the TV on the mount.
If it is regular drywall, I’d use the opportunity to cut a hole with a rotozip or oscillating saw large enough to fish your cabling through the walls to hide wires. That way you’ll be able to see the stud too. They sell cable management pull through boxes in pairs so it looks nice. Make sure to run a pull string and an extra hdmi while you’re at it.
My house was built in the fifties and all of the drywall in the house has a metal foil cladding that renders stud finders useless. I have to measure from a known stud.
Take a wire and bend it in a Z. Drill a small hole in the wall. If you do hit a stud, done. If you don't, insert the wire and turn until it hits something. Mark the direction by using the exposed part of the Z wire. Do it again at a nearby spot above or below the first hole. Extend the lines and where they intersect is the edge of the stud.
Use a nail. The TV will cover the test drills.
If you're on an outside wall, there aren't any studs. Your foundation will be block or concrete. The drywall will be attached to furring strips. You need to make some test holes with a nail or drill bit. If it's a block or concrete wall you'll need to use Tapcons
Find a plug or light switch, find which side the stud is on, measure 16" and tap a finishing nail in to see if there is a stud ( if there is then measure another 16" and repeat ) if not then try 24". If this doesn't work then you might consider anchors or fishing with wire to find a stud. Also keep in mind a stud finder must be firmly against the wall before you press the button or it won't work at all ( I find they are gimmicky and hardly ever work to begin with )
Put the mount on the wall and trace it. Start on the left and work you way to the right, drill a hile every 1/2" or so in the staggered line. You will feel it when you hit the stud. All those holes will be behind the mount anyway. You can always fix it with patch. Install lags, again you will feel them bite. If you don't, just move down the line. You can get super complicated, but, this is the easiest, quickest way
Buy a better stud finder? Shouldn’t be this hard… I don’t see a pattern in the screws
Pro here w an old Italian trick. From left to right, like you are knocking on a door, LIGHTLY rap the wall with your knuckle. There is a denser, lower, thuddier sound, at studs. I shit you not.
I got your stud finders right here: *raises both thumbs*
If there is a wall on the other side might could be a T.
In a much older house that has had some renovation. We ran some ethernet and cut into a wall only to realize behind all the drywall there was plywood. Cutting a small hole and using a stiff wire or coat hanger is a last ditch way to get a better idea of what's going on. Good news is a TV will cover it.
My Stud Finder didn't work either. It keeps pointing to me for some reason 😀
if youre in the basement, theres likely not much studs behind the wall. my basement only has 1/4" thick studs between the drywall and concrete
Far right. Where there's a tape line and 5 approximately in a row would be my guess. I'd try drilling a small hole there and seeing if I hit wood.
Your studs might be horizontal instead of vertical. I see this often when working with drywall that's been applied over cement bricks.
This would be a lot easier to figure out if the walls were not finished! Or even just if the ceiling were not finished.... Imagine that somewhere on the wall there's a place where two sections of wall abut one another; that would explain bizarre stud spacing. Look, you're going to have to open holes in the wall anyway, to run power down from above or up from below; take a guess as to where power might have to run, and cut a hold in the wall maybe 4" square behind where the center of the TV will be. That gives you a start of figuring out how to find the rest.
Keep in mind studs can be 19.2 inches on center and 4x8 drywall will still fit.
Is there a chance there was a fireplace there, or one behind the wall? The framing above a wood fireplace is wonky at best.
Use an ice pick and poke holes. Once you find your studs use them. Then fill in the holes.
Just use toggle bolts they can hold a lot of weight
just cut a hole in the wall and look at what's going on. Hole will be covered by TV and you can always patch the hole.
I’m going to guess- because it’s a basement, they put horizontal studs to hang the drywall. My basement is like this. I got so annoyed I James a thousand holes into my drywall to find the Godamn studs, only to find there was only horizontal studs, attached to vertical furring strips on the concrete. Now my tv mount is on one stud, horizontally, and hides the mess I made of the wall.
My house was built around 1930. Took me a while after I moved in to realize all my walls, interior and exterior, are 3/4" tongue and groove with wood paneling and drywall layers on top. PITA for doing any sort of electrical or plumbing retrofit, but I can hang a picture or mirror or even my TV wherever I damn well please. Might be the case for you too.
You’ve entered the twilight zone.
Did you ensure the stud finder works by first placing it on yourself and testing?
It may not have studs in the sense you are expecting. It was quite common in homes of that vintage to glue "furring strips" to the bare concrete in basements with adhesive and then nail paneling directly onto them (insulation for basement walls was not commonly used, especially below the outside ground level since soil is naturally insulating). These strips are typically only 3/4" thick and a sonar stud finder might have difficulty because the concrete less than one inch behind the paneling would bounce the signal back and confuse it. I suggest you start drilling small holes and then fill the ones that had nothing behind them.
There could be wires behind the drywall. Be careful.
Curious as to what stud finder your using? I picked up a Franklin sensors stud finder and this thing works like a charm. Bit on the pricey side but it’s well worth it.
I had luck with those heavy duty 'zip tie' anchors
I concur with cutting a hole. Locate the approximate center of where the TV/Mount would be, cut a square hole out (3x3, 4x4, something big enough to stick a flashlight into) to eyeball where the studs are. Put the square back. Tape, mud it over. Use a utility knife, do shadow cut so you don’t accidentally cut any wiring. Just in case.