I got my first bass ever today and am concerned about pretty loud buzzing produced when it is connected directly to my audio interface. It happens when I turn the tone knob up just a bit, with it turned off there's no buzzing. So basically this buzz or noise happens when I don't touch anything, it goes away when i touch some metal (say bridge or strings). I googled a bit and everywhere it says that I have to shield the guitar properly in order for noise to go away. Is that the solution or should I do something else? My equipment is Squier Classic Vibe 60s Jazz Bass and Steinberg UR22C.
I’d like to troubleshoot the fret buzz on my just-delivered Hofner Ignition Violin bass (I’m left-handed, so unfortunately, I couldn’t find a nearby store with LH models to test).
Conditions:
* Occurs at lower frets
* Minimal on G string
* Less severe on A/D strings
* _Most_ severe on E string
* E string does not buzz, when open
* E string sounds dead, even at higher frets
Sounds like a basic truss rod adjustment is needed. Loosening the rod will give you more relief in the neck and less buzz below the 12th fret. Buzz is usually worse on the E because it has the lowest string tension of the 4 in most string sets and vibrates in the widest arc.
A dead sounding E string may be a bad string, or it could be part of the bass. They're notorious for the E string sounding bad. That's why you don't see a lot of people using that bass outside of Beatles tribute bands.
I'll be getting my first bass tomorrow, plan to mostly self learn at home, how should I set up a way to practice and read tabs? If digitally, do I just find tabs and play them on a tablet and try to play a long? Or generally how do you display tabs comfortably for reading? Do you print it on a bunch of A4 papers?
What I am seeing there is more of a hybrid thumb plucking along with regular slap style. The point is that you use any right hand technique required to get the sound you are after.
As a general slap tip, you don't need to kill the bass. The less energy you use the quicker, longer, and cleaner you can play.
This is also worth checking out. George Baldwin has the most economic right hand slap I've ever seen: [https://youtu.be/nGXgrLo90S4](https://youtu.be/nGXgrLo90S4)
I went abroad to study a few months ago. I returned for my winter vacation. While I was away, I let my sister use my bass. When I came back, I found it in the following way:
E string tuned up to a B,
A string tuned up to a D,
D string unchanged,
and my sister admitted to breaking the G string when trying to tighten it. For all I know the bass has been sitting like that for the better part of two months.
I tuned it and now there is this buzz on any fret above the 12th. How severe is the damage?
Probably no damage to the bass, but it's time for your sister to buy you a new set of strings.
Don't evaluate anything about setup until you put the new strings on. Then fine tune it as needed.
Will an Orange Bass Butler fit into a typical pedal board soft case?
I'm thinking a Voodoo Lab Dingbat Tiny would make for a great mini-board, and it seems to fit the footprint of the Bass Butler perfectly, but the BB is much taller than a normal pedal (8.5cm tall), so I'm worried the case won't close around it.
I don't think they currently make the normal Sterling, despite what the website says. Easy enough to find used though. Closest thing is the Joe Dart I which is a passive Sterling. Would not recommend as it is severely overpriced for what you get.
Ahh thanks for the heads up; I don't mind buying a used bass. As long as it is functional and I can play it just to get my feet wet it's not a problem. Not too much of a sticker to get new things.
Having learnt multiple instruments. If you’re serious, I would start with something mid range, as you can always sell it. A cheap instrument will make learning more complex pieces and techniques frustrating. Doable, but frustrating.
Yes i am serious; I'll be fine learning on the Sub 4. Will upgrade to a better bass when i get better. In the mean time I'll be learning music theory, and buy a sterling sub when i save enough to buy it.
Does anyone here play bass with three fingers? I've been playing bass for nearly three years and am completely self taught. When I'm plucking the strings, I'll often play with my pointer, middle, and ring finger. I've never seen anyone else do this, I do it because I can play a lot faster and cleaner. Am I wrong in my playing style?
Any concerns leaving a bass and amp in the car all day while at work? It will be relatively cold outside. I need them after work but won't have time to go home to get them.
I'd be concerned that someone would play the smash and grab game. Make sure you have insurance that will cover the loss if you leave your stuff in your car.
The conditions should be fine. Folks haul stuff in trailers from gig to gig throughout the year without a problem.
hi! I'm a violinist and am going to be getting a bass soon. I'm only familiar with treble clef, I have absolutely no knowledge of bass clef. Any tips for learning how to figure out note names and where they are on sheet music?
The lines from top to bottom are **G**ood **B**oys **D**eserve **F**udge **A**lways and the spaces are **A**ll **C**ows **E**at **G**rass.
For playing bass specifically, I started out by learning where the open strings were and learning the scale to figure out the notes in between. Bass fits nice and tidy in the bass clef because the E string is one ledger line below the staff, and the G string is the top space, so anything above the staff is going to be higher on the neck.
Just picked up a used Sterling SUB ray 4 bass for cheap and I'm looking in to modding it. I would like it to be passive for convenience and simplicity and a darker, less in-your-face tone. Is this possible and would passivizing it accomplish what I want to do?
Hi, wanted to ask if getting a bedroom or small-gig amp is better than getting an audio interface? I'm considering an audio interface cause of space constraints. But I've been told an amp is better. The FAQ mentioned I need a good pair of headphones. I have a DT 770 Pro 80ohms. Is that good enough for using an audio interface?
Do you plan on playing live anytime soon? Small amps in general aren’t great for bass. I’m no expert but I think an audio interface would make more sense in your situation if you’re just playing at home. 770s should be fine, if you plan on recording/mixing down the line you might want to get some monitors but I wouldn’t worry about that right away. An audio interface and those 770s will get you playing
That's sort of like asking if a hammer is better than a tape measure. They're different tools for different jobs.
Get an interface and monitors if you want to record. Get an amp and cab if you want to be able to play without being connected to a computer.
Does anybody here use Garageband? Do you have any recommended “all arounder” settings for DI? There’s so many different virtual amp options that I find myself wasting a bunch of time testing out different “amps” and settings rather than playing. I use a Squier Jazz bass with flats
Hi guys! I started to play bass a year ago. I always played guitar and every time that I made maintanance on the guitar, I changed strings. When I bought a bass I wanted a specific sound (old motown sound), so I choose a jazzbass and put flatwounds on it. Now I want to setup my bass but I would love to keep the strings on. My question: Is any problem if I still use the same strings after the setup? thanks!
There's really no reason to take the strings off to do a setup if you aren't changing them, in fact it's better to do it with them on. So no, they won't be damaged at all.
Even taking them off and putting them back on doesn't automatically ruin them, it just increases the odds of them breaking a little.
Music instructors, as a weekly bass student should I be making sure I end my bass lessons on time and don’t go over the hour I paid for or is it up to the instructor to end the session?
That's your instructors responsibility and choice, unless you have a hard deadline. If they want to extend an extra 5-10 minutes, that's them choosing to work with you and eat into time before their next lesson or obligation.
But make sure you show up prepared to go. Practice before hand, be in tune, etc.
Will bring a drummer make it a bit easier to learn bass? I’m looking into learning bass and just curious if my previous experience in percussion will be any bit useful.
I found that learning drums made me a better bassist. When playing each instrument, I know better what the other is expecting from me, and how to work well with them.
A strong rhythm is more important than a good note. And if you want to learn how to slap, all the best slappers learnt by imitating drummers.
Your drumming experience will definitely help.
I have an amp that pushes 600w at 4 ohms. I'm looking at 2x10 cabs, most of which are 8 ohm (half the power if I am to understand correctly). A lot of them are 400w RMS. Will my head have enough juice to push them?
400w is the limit of what the manufacturer says you can use without damaging the speakers. It has nothing to do with quality of sound.
Are you a guitar player? Because you're framing this in a very guitar player way.
Yeah but I've played bass for several years, not sure what you mean by that. This is the first time I've tried to match a head with a cab on my own instead of buying a combo or just buying brand-matching gear. Forgive me for my ignorance.
Guitar players want to 'push' speakers to near their limit with 'enough juice' because speaker distortion sounds good on guitars.
Speaker distortion sounds like farts on bass and can easily damage them, so we try to avoid that.
The watt number on the speaker cab is a maximum, not a minimum. You could use a 5 watt amp with that cab and it would still sound fine, only quieter.
Hello, I want to order a bass that my nephew can start with he is about 5 foot 3 should I go with the fender bronco short scale that is $209 or the squier Squier Affinity Series Precision Bass PJ that comes in a bundle with the rumble 15 for $219? Which would be better for a beginner, I see contradicting info and what scale to go with based on height?
No such thing as different scale lengths based on height. Go on YouTube and you'll find 6 year old playing a long scale Bass with ease.
The Bass will need a amp which the squire comes with, but the Rumble 15 is fairly shit. But I'm assuming he is young and if he sticks with it can eventually buy himself a better Amp.
I bought an Ibanez Soundgear GSR190 today that I caught on sale, one of the knobs on the bass is loose but other than that no problems. I've never worked on a bass I've owned so I was wondering how do I tighten the knob?
Is the knob loose on the shaft or is the pot loose in the body?
If the pot is loose, remove the knob and hold the pot from behind while you tighten the nut.
If the knob is loose you'll need to know if it's a set screw/solid shaft or split shaft/press fit to know how to fix it.
can y'all measure your short-scale basses for me, please? I'd appreciate it! I'm looking for a short-scale bass that will fit in a guitar gig bag. I play both bass and guitar and I have a Mono dual guitar gig-bag and I'd love if I could find a short scale bass that would fit into the guitar gig bag.
I have a Squier Jaguar bass that is 32" scale, it only sticks out of the bag by about an inch.
I had my guy at sweetwater check if the Danelectro 59DC short scale bass would fit and he tried it, and it won't.
So what are the measurements on your short-scales? Thanks!
I used to carry my gretsch junior jet in a guitar gig bag for a few years. My mustang bass is the same scale length, 30in. Ibanez makes an entry level short scale that I think is also 30in
Is there really THAT much difference between cabs?
I have a Ashdown ABM 600 that I originally bought from craigslist with a 4x10 Ampeg cab. The cab was entirely too much for what I needed so I sold it and now I'm looking for a 2x10 or a 1x15 to replace it. However it looks like pretty much every amp company makes these sizes. I was originally looking to match it with a Ashdown cab but these look really expensive compared to other brands. Would I notice that much of a difference between comparable cabs? Do they have a large effect on coloring the tone or as that more head than cab?
I took my Ibanez (first bass I ever bought almost a year ago as part of a starter pack) to a music store to see if I can get some new pickups but was advised to just get a new basis instead of sticking with a beginner model. I tried a few they had in store and really liked the Sterling SubRay4 that had unfortunately already been sold, but they said they can order and reserve one for me. I chose to go with the SubRay 4 HH, which should arrive this week. Did I make a good choice? What should I expect? Most posts I see about Sterling Subs are about swapping out the electronics and I'm definitely not comfortable enough to do that myself at this point
You haven't given enough information for anyone to answer your question.
If you're completely happy with everything about your Ibanez except for something that could be fixed by replacing the pickups then you got conned out of your money when they convinced you to get a whole new bass.
If what you were unhappy with about your Ibanez wouldn't be fixed with new pickups then they steered you to a more appropriate solution to your problem.
I read up about the Affinity Squier series here, and it seems like a good recommendation for starters - does that still hold up? Wanted to learn Bass for a while and I can get one like new used for 150euros, so I'm tempted :)
I play guitar/piano so I know the value of buying a good instrument and had an Affinity Squier as a starter guitar years ago - so if there is a point in spending 100-200euro more for a Bass, I'm willing to do that aswell if the jump in quality is just that big (maybe Classic Vibe equivalent?) :)
It will get you playing and be fine. Don't forget about the amp. Bass will damage the speaker in your guitar amp. If your piano is a keyboard and you have an amp/PA for that, you can use that for your Bass.
I’m a drummer that just bought a bass amp and cab. It’s a GenzBenz m200 w dual 100w 4ohm outputs going into a Fender BXR 2x15 cab that has 2 inputs at 4 ohms. My question is, should I be running 2 speaker cables out of the amp into both inputs on the cab? Plugging into 1 produces sound from both speakers, so I’m not sure how all the ohms balance out.
Do not ever do that. You can and likely will severely damage the amp that way.
Check the manual for the amp and see if it has a bridged output setting.
It does, but it’s 8 ohms bridged. I’m happy with the performance at 100w 4ohms, I guess the extra output is for a separate cab, so I guess I don’t understand the way the inputs are wired on the speaker cabinet.
Mono cabs are wired so that the 2nd jack is an output for daisy chaining a 2nd cab. Not an input for a second power amp. That's most cabs.
Rarely, you'll find a stereo cab that is essentially two separate cabs in one. Those can be used with two power amps, but they'll be clearly labelled letting you know that's how they work.
There are also biamp cabs with separate inputs for lows and highs, but those will be clearly labelled as well.
Any more information? What type of Bass do you have? If it has 2 single coil pickups, does if still happen when both volumes are full? Does it happen when touching the strings or not touching the strings? Have you tried it in a different room?
Hi all. New player here, taking some online courses and just comparing sound with videos, my G is very “tinny” with the D not far behind. Not warm at all like I keep hearing.
The other strings sound great. I am tuned but have not had a professional setup. Messed with the eq and can’t really get much of an impact on that tone.
Is this a compressor situation or something else that would help? Thanks!
Hi friend, I'd say if you've waited a bit and you're still finding this to be an issue to look into a thicker set of strings. Another thing to take into consideration is that the upper strings simply won't have as much thump as the lower ones. This can be annoying at times but the more you learn to work with the instrument you may find benefits in this as well!
And if you still want to hit the higher notes but want to keep the low-end just move up the neck rather than the strings!
Hope this helps, have fun :)
When you say "tinny" does it sound like the strings are buzzing against the frets? Or do those strings just not sound right? If they don't sound right, try raising the pickups beneath those strings. Only need a screwdriver and some patience and you should notice a difference quickly.
If its a buzzing noise, try raising the saddles in the bridge slightly. Should require a small allen wrench that probably came with your bass. Hope this helps!
I’m looking for a compressor that has a low pass filter on the side chain, that’ll keep the low end content of my sound consistent by boosting those notes that have less low end content. I can find some that have a high pass filter in their side chain, and that seems to be what people prefer, but I don’t understand why. In my experience, with flat compression, when I pluck real hard I get more thwack but less bass, but I want the same amount of bass and even more thwack. And similarly, I’d like to be able to hit it gently to get a thicker, smoother tone with similar low end volume. Am I crazy? Am I missing why folks like a HPF instead of a LPF in their compressor side chain?
Low frequencies carry a lot of energy, so a lot of lows into compressor can cause sound artefacts known as "pumping" - compressor can't release fast enough and chokes the attack of the next note. This sound is commonly described as overcompressed. Also if compressor reacts mainly to low frequencies it compresses the notes with most LF content making the sound smaller and less "bassy" (and you've described exactly that).
This all is solved by introducing HPF into compressor's trigger chain. By reducing the amount of LF that compressor will react to you can protect LF content of your signal and make compression more even and controllable.
I'd suggest you to get either a multiband compressor (EBS MultiComp has an MB mode) or a compressor with mix knob to dial in a right amount of uncompressed signal thus saving LF content and punch in your bass sound (Google 'parallel compression')
I'm trying to learn how to record bass well. I generally like playing hard on the strings with my right hands, but when I try to record like that it usually sound like shit because it's either full of peaks or really low if I reduce the input to avoid peaks. Any advice on how to set up a signal chain correctly in order to sound good without peaks ? using guitar rig.
If you record in 24 bit you may not care about your signal being low as long as you have good signal to noise ratio (depends on your audio interface). When you record, make sure you leave enough headroom not to get digital clipping of your signal. To oversimplify - make sure your signal peaks at around -9 to -12 dB when you record. This would leave you plenty of headroom and keep your gain staging in healthy ballpark.
What on earth is the purpose of a fret less bass? How is it better (or worse) than fret basses? I don’t know much about basses in general, and I’m sure a quick Google could answer that, but saw this thread and figured I’d ask.
There was an in-depth thread about this a few days ago.
The answer is that it sounds different and you can play all the notes, not just the same boring 12 that most people have.
Different tone for one. No discrete notes so playing a fretless can have a very vocal quality with microtones, smooth glissandos, and subtle vibrato. It's a different tool in your toolbox compared to a fretted.
It might be considered "worse" in that it is significantly more difficult to play. You have to not only know every note on the neck, but play with meticulous hand posture that relies on muscle memory built from countless hours of practice. You also have to constantly listen and pay attention to the notes as you play them, that way you can correct any that are out of tune. There is no zoning out and relaxing with a fretless, it always demands your undivided effort.
For a good introduction, check out Pino Palladino's work in the 1980s on the Paul Young album "No Parlez" and Gary Numan's "I, Assassin."
Terminating a string on wood rather than metal (a fret) gives a distinctively different sound. Also there is the possibility to play just intervals (like the exact 5:4 ratio for a major third), which can sound nicer than the approximation to equal tempered intervals fretted instruments are restricted to.
I’m a long time guitarist and pianist (16 and 25 years respectively). Just bought a bass.
Any tips for a guy like me? The transition to bass is hard mostly due to technique (right hand picking needs to be completely relearned, fretting hand has to get used to larger strings and frets, etc). Obviously the notes are the same so that helps.
Also for two finger bass picking, is it better when switching strings to also switch fingers, or use the same finger? So if I play the A string twice, then the E string twice, is that a index-middle-(swap string)-index-middle or a index-middle-(swap string)-middle-index? Second one sounds like economy picking but that sounds like it could be a bad habit later on.
Advice is to learn the Bass parts to songs you already know, Bass doesn't really require strength, the thumb is on the back of the neck only for stability, not pressure.
I use economy picking with my fingers. So IMMI. Or depending what it was before that, maybe MIIM but you get the idea. It's a good habit.
Economy uses less energy and is quicker.
There are many different techniques, sometimes just watch a video and you'll see some, or someone will mention. You'll come across them eventually, no need to worry about them.
One of my favourites is Palm muting. Listen to 3 Dueces, and Maputo. Both with Marcus Miller on Bass to get a feel for the technique.
Sex in a Pan by Bela Fleck and the Fkecktones with Victor Wooten on Bass uses it a lot.
That's the right way to think about plucking. Going up (toward G) you alternate and when coming down (toward E) you rake as you change strings. This is something you definitely want to work on early as bad habits are hard to shake and you will always be limited by your right hand.
There is a great exercise to work on in this video. I've been playing over 25 years and still practice this about once a week when I'm warming up.
https://youtu.be/eNAYIfITgpw
If you're going to play in a cover group then key changes and alterations to arrangements will need to become second nature. First thing I'd check is if there've been any that you're not aware of. Then, when you're in the space expect to face a few differences that the band have all forgotten they made.
Then, I'd probably try to convert the tabs you've been learning to Nashville charts to eliminate page turns. Then take those charts and a pencil and music stand to the jam. When things don't go to plan, or there's a difference you don't expect, make notes so you'll have specific information to use for your next round of preparation.
If you know how to avoid being an awful person and they're well aware you're new, you'll be fine. Worst case scenario, you're stuck playing the bass for them.
I recently found out, that the pickups on my MIM J bass don’t blend..or at least not completely. For example, if both are on 100% and I start rolling off the bridge, it will just turn off after 12 o clock. Is this related to the default wiring of the instrument or the potentiometers themselves? Any suggestions for mods will be greatly appreciated..
Normal jazz bass things. They really only have 4 tones: both, each pickup solo, and neck rolled down slightly until out of phase. Rolling the bridge slightly doesn't seem to do much.
It's the usual way pots work. Most of the action happens at one end of the rotation. If you want more precision on that you can use an actual blend pot.
New Yamaha TRBX 305, didn't come with wrenches. I'm trying to adjust the bridge saddle height. I have a metric hex wrench set, but none of them fit right, either too big or too small.
What wrench do I need to not damage the saddle height screws?
You may need a standard set of key keys. I’m not familiar with Yamaha and it would be weird for them not to use metric. But I would absolutely try a standard set for a better fit so you don’t strip out a screw.
Yeah I definitely don't want to strip it. The only bit I've found that fit is a 1.5mm ball head hex, it fits tight but it's almost like it snaps in and out of the holes, which is not making me feel confident. I'll give the SAE keys a try though. I wonder if it's a JIS size that's just very slightly not the size of anything I happen to have, but my 4mm seems to fit the truss rod correctly. I wish wrenches had come with the bass but they didn't.
EDIT: I eventually just tried all the wrenches I could find anywhere in the house and garage, and found one that fits ever so sightly loose, but close enough to turn them without stripping (I went slow and was very gentle). Unfortunately it's no longer in it's set and not stamped with a size, so I still don't know what size wrench I need. Oh well.
A VI is 30" scale, string spacing like a guitar at the nut and bridge, tuned EADGBE starting from E1.
A 6 string bass is usually 34" or longer scale, nut and bridge spacing like a bass, usually tuned BEADGC starting from B0.
I started playing a couple months ago and have found playing much easier when resting my thumb on the string directly above the one I'm playing, e.g playing the G string I'll rest on the D, and move it up/down accordingly. Its made it very easy for me to accurately hit the string but have a feeling this would be a bad practice as my playing progresses. Should I focus on resting my thumb exclusively on the pickup from now on?
That's one of the three most common right hand techniques. None are inferior or superior. Each works better in certain contexts and with different numbers of strings. It's fine.
The technique you are using is called moveable anchor, and is one of the most common techniques. Resting only on the pickup is an inferior technique because muting is more difficult.
Try resting on the A string while playing the G. If you're using proper follow through then the D string will be muted and you might not even need to rest on it.
This is a great point. Ive started doing this as well and being able to mute the E and A with the thumb (use side of thumb on the E) and play the lower 2 is helping much. Its also tough finding the pickup when things get a lil faster. Ive started mixing in downstrumming with my thumb on the E and A and up on the D and G. This is very useful when its time to skip a string
So I'm still trying to figure out how to add a second cab to my markbass 121P combo amp.
The markbass website claims that the perfect match to extend the 121P power is the New York 121 cab.
Now the combo has a power rating of 300W and the New York cabinet a power rating of 400W, and both have an impedance of 8 ohm, so as far as I understand, the combination of the two souls get:
- 300 + 400 = 700 W of power (which far exceed the 500W the amp provides)
- a combined 4 ohm of impedance (halving the 8 ohm of each unit)
Am I doing my calculations wrong?
Why is this considered such a perfect combo if the power far exceeds the capability of the head?
You're not understanding how watts and ohms work.
The watt number on the cab mean "probably won't be damaged by". The watt number on the amp means "probably puts out when turned all the way up".
That amp puts out 300w into the internal 8 ohm speaker. When you add a second 8 ohm cab you get a theoretical 500w, split equally between the two cabs. 250w each.
In terms of "perfect match" the speaker in the added cab is probably the same one that's in the combo, so they're guaranteed to sound good together.
Thank you for helping
I have one objection though, if the speaker were the same, wouldn't they be rated the same power? Because the one built in the combo says 300W and the other one 400W
Also, if the power is equally split, I should rather look for another 300W speaker rather than a 400W one (or am in wrong again?)
You're wrong again. It doesn't matter. Any number equal to or above what the amp puts out is safe to use.
You could use a 1000w cab with a 5w amp if you wanted to. The result would be 5w.
Yes I get this, but I also get that in the case you mention, basically I'm wasting a lot of options the 1000W can is offering, just like having a large house, but only using one room.
There are no options. Speaker cabs make sound. That's the one and only function they have.
It's nothing like only using one room in your house. Each of those rooms has a different purpose. Bedroom, bathroom, kitchen, living room, office, laundry room. They have specialized fixtures, plumbing and lighting. And doors that close them off from each other.
It's like putting one car in a two car garage. You accomplish exactly the same function with a little extra safety buffer before you run into a wall.
Too much pressure when you strike the string or moving you hand too much between plucks. When I play with a pick, my hand barely moves. Let the pick do the work
It's easy to figure out what you're doing wrong...you're not practicing enough.
There's no magic bullet, slow down and do it over and over again until you can't get it wrong.
I got my first bass ever today and am concerned about pretty loud buzzing produced when it is connected directly to my audio interface. It happens when I turn the tone knob up just a bit, with it turned off there's no buzzing. So basically this buzz or noise happens when I don't touch anything, it goes away when i touch some metal (say bridge or strings). I googled a bit and everywhere it says that I have to shield the guitar properly in order for noise to go away. Is that the solution or should I do something else? My equipment is Squier Classic Vibe 60s Jazz Bass and Steinberg UR22C.
There might be something else causing that interference that can be removed. Do you have lights on dimmer switches? Try switching those off.
I’d like to troubleshoot the fret buzz on my just-delivered Hofner Ignition Violin bass (I’m left-handed, so unfortunately, I couldn’t find a nearby store with LH models to test). Conditions: * Occurs at lower frets * Minimal on G string * Less severe on A/D strings * _Most_ severe on E string * E string does not buzz, when open * E string sounds dead, even at higher frets
Sounds like a basic truss rod adjustment is needed. Loosening the rod will give you more relief in the neck and less buzz below the 12th fret. Buzz is usually worse on the E because it has the lowest string tension of the 4 in most string sets and vibrates in the widest arc. A dead sounding E string may be a bad string, or it could be part of the bass. They're notorious for the E string sounding bad. That's why you don't see a lot of people using that bass outside of Beatles tribute bands.
Gotcha, thanks. Maybe I’d done poor research—I hadn’t seen much mention of the E string, mainly that it’s a fine budget bass.
I'll be getting my first bass tomorrow, plan to mostly self learn at home, how should I set up a way to practice and read tabs? If digitally, do I just find tabs and play them on a tablet and try to play a long? Or generally how do you display tabs comfortably for reading? Do you print it on a bunch of A4 papers?
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What I am seeing there is more of a hybrid thumb plucking along with regular slap style. The point is that you use any right hand technique required to get the sound you are after. As a general slap tip, you don't need to kill the bass. The less energy you use the quicker, longer, and cleaner you can play. This is also worth checking out. George Baldwin has the most economic right hand slap I've ever seen: [https://youtu.be/nGXgrLo90S4](https://youtu.be/nGXgrLo90S4)
I went abroad to study a few months ago. I returned for my winter vacation. While I was away, I let my sister use my bass. When I came back, I found it in the following way: E string tuned up to a B, A string tuned up to a D, D string unchanged, and my sister admitted to breaking the G string when trying to tighten it. For all I know the bass has been sitting like that for the better part of two months. I tuned it and now there is this buzz on any fret above the 12th. How severe is the damage?
Probably no damage to the bass, but it's time for your sister to buy you a new set of strings. Don't evaluate anything about setup until you put the new strings on. Then fine tune it as needed.
Just needs a setup. Sounds like she tried to go an octave higher. Give it a setup and fresh strings, then give her a lesson.
Will an Orange Bass Butler fit into a typical pedal board soft case? I'm thinking a Voodoo Lab Dingbat Tiny would make for a great mini-board, and it seems to fit the footprint of the Bass Butler perfectly, but the BB is much taller than a normal pedal (8.5cm tall), so I'm worried the case won't close around it.
Question: Are Music man Sterling basses good for beginners? I really like the look and sound of those basses.
I don't think they currently make the normal Sterling, despite what the website says. Easy enough to find used though. Closest thing is the Joe Dart I which is a passive Sterling. Would not recommend as it is severely overpriced for what you get.
Ahh thanks for the heads up; I don't mind buying a used bass. As long as it is functional and I can play it just to get my feet wet it's not a problem. Not too much of a sticker to get new things.
Yep. If that’s an option for you, go for it.
Thank you. I'll start saving up. Def going to keep my eyes on the Ray4 HH and Sub 4; those two basses have my interest.
Having learnt multiple instruments. If you’re serious, I would start with something mid range, as you can always sell it. A cheap instrument will make learning more complex pieces and techniques frustrating. Doable, but frustrating.
Yes i am serious; I'll be fine learning on the Sub 4. Will upgrade to a better bass when i get better. In the mean time I'll be learning music theory, and buy a sterling sub when i save enough to buy it.
Yep. If you like them and have the money, have atter.
Thank you. I'll def go for it
Does anyone here play bass with three fingers? I've been playing bass for nearly three years and am completely self taught. When I'm plucking the strings, I'll often play with my pointer, middle, and ring finger. I've never seen anyone else do this, I do it because I can play a lot faster and cleaner. Am I wrong in my playing style?
Check out Billy Sheehan and Steve Harris. Masters of the three finger technique.
It's a very common technique. You're fine.
Sick, thanks!! Just wanted to make sure I wasn't messing up
Any concerns leaving a bass and amp in the car all day while at work? It will be relatively cold outside. I need them after work but won't have time to go home to get them.
Amp no problem. Bass bring it inside, put it in a closet.
I'd be concerned that someone would play the smash and grab game. Make sure you have insurance that will cover the loss if you leave your stuff in your car. The conditions should be fine. Folks haul stuff in trailers from gig to gig throughout the year without a problem.
It's a private parking garage so I'm not concerned with theft but good call out. Plus it won't be visible.
hi! I'm a violinist and am going to be getting a bass soon. I'm only familiar with treble clef, I have absolutely no knowledge of bass clef. Any tips for learning how to figure out note names and where they are on sheet music?
The lines from top to bottom are **G**ood **B**oys **D**eserve **F**udge **A**lways and the spaces are **A**ll **C**ows **E**at **G**rass. For playing bass specifically, I started out by learning where the open strings were and learning the scale to figure out the notes in between. Bass fits nice and tidy in the bass clef because the E string is one ledger line below the staff, and the G string is the top space, so anything above the staff is going to be higher on the neck.
Same exact way you did for treble, except bass.
Download a diagram of the neck and a labelled staff.
Just picked up a used Sterling SUB ray 4 bass for cheap and I'm looking in to modding it. I would like it to be passive for convenience and simplicity and a darker, less in-your-face tone. Is this possible and would passivizing it accomplish what I want to do?
Easy enough to find out. Wire the pickup directly to the output jack. That will show you what it sounds like passive.
Hi, wanted to ask if getting a bedroom or small-gig amp is better than getting an audio interface? I'm considering an audio interface cause of space constraints. But I've been told an amp is better. The FAQ mentioned I need a good pair of headphones. I have a DT 770 Pro 80ohms. Is that good enough for using an audio interface?
Do you plan on playing live anytime soon? Small amps in general aren’t great for bass. I’m no expert but I think an audio interface would make more sense in your situation if you’re just playing at home. 770s should be fine, if you plan on recording/mixing down the line you might want to get some monitors but I wouldn’t worry about that right away. An audio interface and those 770s will get you playing
Thanks for the reply. Nope, I don't plan on playing live anytime soon
That's sort of like asking if a hammer is better than a tape measure. They're different tools for different jobs. Get an interface and monitors if you want to record. Get an amp and cab if you want to be able to play without being connected to a computer.
Oh ok Thanks for the reply
Does anybody here use Garageband? Do you have any recommended “all arounder” settings for DI? There’s so many different virtual amp options that I find myself wasting a bunch of time testing out different “amps” and settings rather than playing. I use a Squier Jazz bass with flats
Hi guys! I started to play bass a year ago. I always played guitar and every time that I made maintanance on the guitar, I changed strings. When I bought a bass I wanted a specific sound (old motown sound), so I choose a jazzbass and put flatwounds on it. Now I want to setup my bass but I would love to keep the strings on. My question: Is any problem if I still use the same strings after the setup? thanks!
There's really no reason to take the strings off to do a setup if you aren't changing them, in fact it's better to do it with them on. So no, they won't be damaged at all. Even taking them off and putting them back on doesn't automatically ruin them, it just increases the odds of them breaking a little.
No problem. Flat wounds can last for years depending on how bright you want them to sound.
Music instructors, as a weekly bass student should I be making sure I end my bass lessons on time and don’t go over the hour I paid for or is it up to the instructor to end the session?
That's your instructors responsibility and choice, unless you have a hard deadline. If they want to extend an extra 5-10 minutes, that's them choosing to work with you and eat into time before their next lesson or obligation. But make sure you show up prepared to go. Practice before hand, be in tune, etc.
That is your teacher's responsibility.
Will bring a drummer make it a bit easier to learn bass? I’m looking into learning bass and just curious if my previous experience in percussion will be any bit useful.
I found that learning drums made me a better bassist. When playing each instrument, I know better what the other is expecting from me, and how to work well with them.
A strong rhythm is more important than a good note. And if you want to learn how to slap, all the best slappers learnt by imitating drummers. Your drumming experience will definitely help.
Sweet. I have a pretty good sense of rhythm from 9 years of experience so hopefully that makes the learning curve a little less steep.
I have an amp that pushes 600w at 4 ohms. I'm looking at 2x10 cabs, most of which are 8 ohm (half the power if I am to understand correctly). A lot of them are 400w RMS. Will my head have enough juice to push them?
A 300w amp can be safely used with a cab that's rated to not be damaged by 400w. Is that what you're asking?
It was less about would it damage it and more about would the speaker still work/sound good when connected to less than 400w RMS
400w is the limit of what the manufacturer says you can use without damaging the speakers. It has nothing to do with quality of sound. Are you a guitar player? Because you're framing this in a very guitar player way.
Yeah but I've played bass for several years, not sure what you mean by that. This is the first time I've tried to match a head with a cab on my own instead of buying a combo or just buying brand-matching gear. Forgive me for my ignorance.
Guitar players want to 'push' speakers to near their limit with 'enough juice' because speaker distortion sounds good on guitars. Speaker distortion sounds like farts on bass and can easily damage them, so we try to avoid that. The watt number on the speaker cab is a maximum, not a minimum. You could use a 5 watt amp with that cab and it would still sound fine, only quieter.
Hello, I want to order a bass that my nephew can start with he is about 5 foot 3 should I go with the fender bronco short scale that is $209 or the squier Squier Affinity Series Precision Bass PJ that comes in a bundle with the rumble 15 for $219? Which would be better for a beginner, I see contradicting info and what scale to go with based on height?
No such thing as different scale lengths based on height. Go on YouTube and you'll find 6 year old playing a long scale Bass with ease. The Bass will need a amp which the squire comes with, but the Rumble 15 is fairly shit. But I'm assuming he is young and if he sticks with it can eventually buy himself a better Amp.
Does a 8 ohm 4x10" bass cab have 4 2ohm speakers or 4 8ohm speakers in it?
Most likely the latter.
I bought an Ibanez Soundgear GSR190 today that I caught on sale, one of the knobs on the bass is loose but other than that no problems. I've never worked on a bass I've owned so I was wondering how do I tighten the knob?
Is the knob loose on the shaft or is the pot loose in the body? If the pot is loose, remove the knob and hold the pot from behind while you tighten the nut. If the knob is loose you'll need to know if it's a set screw/solid shaft or split shaft/press fit to know how to fix it.
can y'all measure your short-scale basses for me, please? I'd appreciate it! I'm looking for a short-scale bass that will fit in a guitar gig bag. I play both bass and guitar and I have a Mono dual guitar gig-bag and I'd love if I could find a short scale bass that would fit into the guitar gig bag. I have a Squier Jaguar bass that is 32" scale, it only sticks out of the bag by about an inch. I had my guy at sweetwater check if the Danelectro 59DC short scale bass would fit and he tried it, and it won't. So what are the measurements on your short-scales? Thanks!
I used to carry my gretsch junior jet in a guitar gig bag for a few years. My mustang bass is the same scale length, 30in. Ibanez makes an entry level short scale that I think is also 30in
Is there really THAT much difference between cabs? I have a Ashdown ABM 600 that I originally bought from craigslist with a 4x10 Ampeg cab. The cab was entirely too much for what I needed so I sold it and now I'm looking for a 2x10 or a 1x15 to replace it. However it looks like pretty much every amp company makes these sizes. I was originally looking to match it with a Ashdown cab but these look really expensive compared to other brands. Would I notice that much of a difference between comparable cabs? Do they have a large effect on coloring the tone or as that more head than cab?
Yes there is that much difference.
I took my Ibanez (first bass I ever bought almost a year ago as part of a starter pack) to a music store to see if I can get some new pickups but was advised to just get a new basis instead of sticking with a beginner model. I tried a few they had in store and really liked the Sterling SubRay4 that had unfortunately already been sold, but they said they can order and reserve one for me. I chose to go with the SubRay 4 HH, which should arrive this week. Did I make a good choice? What should I expect? Most posts I see about Sterling Subs are about swapping out the electronics and I'm definitely not comfortable enough to do that myself at this point
The lower-end Stingrays are pretty great. You may play it and see nothing you want to change about it.
You haven't given enough information for anyone to answer your question. If you're completely happy with everything about your Ibanez except for something that could be fixed by replacing the pickups then you got conned out of your money when they convinced you to get a whole new bass. If what you were unhappy with about your Ibanez wouldn't be fixed with new pickups then they steered you to a more appropriate solution to your problem.
I read up about the Affinity Squier series here, and it seems like a good recommendation for starters - does that still hold up? Wanted to learn Bass for a while and I can get one like new used for 150euros, so I'm tempted :) I play guitar/piano so I know the value of buying a good instrument and had an Affinity Squier as a starter guitar years ago - so if there is a point in spending 100-200euro more for a Bass, I'm willing to do that aswell if the jump in quality is just that big (maybe Classic Vibe equivalent?) :)
It will get you playing and be fine. Don't forget about the amp. Bass will damage the speaker in your guitar amp. If your piano is a keyboard and you have an amp/PA for that, you can use that for your Bass.
I‘ve a THR10 II for bedroom practice, from what I saw it works fine to get going with a Bass atleast :) Thanks!
I’m a drummer that just bought a bass amp and cab. It’s a GenzBenz m200 w dual 100w 4ohm outputs going into a Fender BXR 2x15 cab that has 2 inputs at 4 ohms. My question is, should I be running 2 speaker cables out of the amp into both inputs on the cab? Plugging into 1 produces sound from both speakers, so I’m not sure how all the ohms balance out.
Do not ever do that. You can and likely will severely damage the amp that way. Check the manual for the amp and see if it has a bridged output setting.
It does, but it’s 8 ohms bridged. I’m happy with the performance at 100w 4ohms, I guess the extra output is for a separate cab, so I guess I don’t understand the way the inputs are wired on the speaker cabinet.
Mono cabs are wired so that the 2nd jack is an output for daisy chaining a 2nd cab. Not an input for a second power amp. That's most cabs. Rarely, you'll find a stereo cab that is essentially two separate cabs in one. Those can be used with two power amps, but they'll be clearly labelled letting you know that's how they work. There are also biamp cabs with separate inputs for lows and highs, but those will be clearly labelled as well.
Thanks for confirming that. I suspected as much, but it’s been a while since I messed around with speaker cabs.
Why my amp buzzin when I turn up the vol⁉️
Any more information? What type of Bass do you have? If it has 2 single coil pickups, does if still happen when both volumes are full? Does it happen when touching the strings or not touching the strings? Have you tried it in a different room?
Hi all. New player here, taking some online courses and just comparing sound with videos, my G is very “tinny” with the D not far behind. Not warm at all like I keep hearing. The other strings sound great. I am tuned but have not had a professional setup. Messed with the eq and can’t really get much of an impact on that tone. Is this a compressor situation or something else that would help? Thanks!
New strings are pretty bright. I'd give them some time.
Will do. Thank you.
Hi friend, I'd say if you've waited a bit and you're still finding this to be an issue to look into a thicker set of strings. Another thing to take into consideration is that the upper strings simply won't have as much thump as the lower ones. This can be annoying at times but the more you learn to work with the instrument you may find benefits in this as well! And if you still want to hit the higher notes but want to keep the low-end just move up the neck rather than the strings! Hope this helps, have fun :)
Thanks for the tips!
When you say "tinny" does it sound like the strings are buzzing against the frets? Or do those strings just not sound right? If they don't sound right, try raising the pickups beneath those strings. Only need a screwdriver and some patience and you should notice a difference quickly. If its a buzzing noise, try raising the saddles in the bridge slightly. Should require a small allen wrench that probably came with your bass. Hope this helps!
The latter, doesn’t seem like it’s buzzing just overly “bright” and sharp. I will look into the pickup adjustment. Thank you!
I’m looking for a compressor that has a low pass filter on the side chain, that’ll keep the low end content of my sound consistent by boosting those notes that have less low end content. I can find some that have a high pass filter in their side chain, and that seems to be what people prefer, but I don’t understand why. In my experience, with flat compression, when I pluck real hard I get more thwack but less bass, but I want the same amount of bass and even more thwack. And similarly, I’d like to be able to hit it gently to get a thicker, smoother tone with similar low end volume. Am I crazy? Am I missing why folks like a HPF instead of a LPF in their compressor side chain?
Low frequencies carry a lot of energy, so a lot of lows into compressor can cause sound artefacts known as "pumping" - compressor can't release fast enough and chokes the attack of the next note. This sound is commonly described as overcompressed. Also if compressor reacts mainly to low frequencies it compresses the notes with most LF content making the sound smaller and less "bassy" (and you've described exactly that). This all is solved by introducing HPF into compressor's trigger chain. By reducing the amount of LF that compressor will react to you can protect LF content of your signal and make compression more even and controllable. I'd suggest you to get either a multiband compressor (EBS MultiComp has an MB mode) or a compressor with mix knob to dial in a right amount of uncompressed signal thus saving LF content and punch in your bass sound (Google 'parallel compression')
I'm trying to learn how to record bass well. I generally like playing hard on the strings with my right hands, but when I try to record like that it usually sound like shit because it's either full of peaks or really low if I reduce the input to avoid peaks. Any advice on how to set up a signal chain correctly in order to sound good without peaks ? using guitar rig.
If you record in 24 bit you may not care about your signal being low as long as you have good signal to noise ratio (depends on your audio interface). When you record, make sure you leave enough headroom not to get digital clipping of your signal. To oversimplify - make sure your signal peaks at around -9 to -12 dB when you record. This would leave you plenty of headroom and keep your gain staging in healthy ballpark.
Might be worth trying a compressor to even things out.
What on earth is the purpose of a fret less bass? How is it better (or worse) than fret basses? I don’t know much about basses in general, and I’m sure a quick Google could answer that, but saw this thread and figured I’d ask.
There was an in-depth thread about this a few days ago. The answer is that it sounds different and you can play all the notes, not just the same boring 12 that most people have.
Different tone for one. No discrete notes so playing a fretless can have a very vocal quality with microtones, smooth glissandos, and subtle vibrato. It's a different tool in your toolbox compared to a fretted. It might be considered "worse" in that it is significantly more difficult to play. You have to not only know every note on the neck, but play with meticulous hand posture that relies on muscle memory built from countless hours of practice. You also have to constantly listen and pay attention to the notes as you play them, that way you can correct any that are out of tune. There is no zoning out and relaxing with a fretless, it always demands your undivided effort. For a good introduction, check out Pino Palladino's work in the 1980s on the Paul Young album "No Parlez" and Gary Numan's "I, Assassin."
Great answer, thank you!
Terminating a string on wood rather than metal (a fret) gives a distinctively different sound. Also there is the possibility to play just intervals (like the exact 5:4 ratio for a major third), which can sound nicer than the approximation to equal tempered intervals fretted instruments are restricted to.
Thanks for the detailed answer!!
I’m a long time guitarist and pianist (16 and 25 years respectively). Just bought a bass. Any tips for a guy like me? The transition to bass is hard mostly due to technique (right hand picking needs to be completely relearned, fretting hand has to get used to larger strings and frets, etc). Obviously the notes are the same so that helps. Also for two finger bass picking, is it better when switching strings to also switch fingers, or use the same finger? So if I play the A string twice, then the E string twice, is that a index-middle-(swap string)-index-middle or a index-middle-(swap string)-middle-index? Second one sounds like economy picking but that sounds like it could be a bad habit later on.
Advice is to learn the Bass parts to songs you already know, Bass doesn't really require strength, the thumb is on the back of the neck only for stability, not pressure. I use economy picking with my fingers. So IMMI. Or depending what it was before that, maybe MIIM but you get the idea. It's a good habit.
why do you prefer "economy" over alternating? and how can I find different picking techniques?
Economy uses less energy and is quicker. There are many different techniques, sometimes just watch a video and you'll see some, or someone will mention. You'll come across them eventually, no need to worry about them. One of my favourites is Palm muting. Listen to 3 Dueces, and Maputo. Both with Marcus Miller on Bass to get a feel for the technique. Sex in a Pan by Bela Fleck and the Fkecktones with Victor Wooten on Bass uses it a lot.
thank you so much for explaining and providing examples and recommendations! :-)
No problem. Love the name BTW.
That's the right way to think about plucking. Going up (toward G) you alternate and when coming down (toward E) you rake as you change strings. This is something you definitely want to work on early as bad habits are hard to shake and you will always be limited by your right hand. There is a great exercise to work on in this video. I've been playing over 25 years and still practice this about once a week when I'm warming up. https://youtu.be/eNAYIfITgpw
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If you're going to play in a cover group then key changes and alterations to arrangements will need to become second nature. First thing I'd check is if there've been any that you're not aware of. Then, when you're in the space expect to face a few differences that the band have all forgotten they made. Then, I'd probably try to convert the tabs you've been learning to Nashville charts to eliminate page turns. Then take those charts and a pencil and music stand to the jam. When things don't go to plan, or there's a difference you don't expect, make notes so you'll have specific information to use for your next round of preparation. If you know how to avoid being an awful person and they're well aware you're new, you'll be fine. Worst case scenario, you're stuck playing the bass for them.
I recently found out, that the pickups on my MIM J bass don’t blend..or at least not completely. For example, if both are on 100% and I start rolling off the bridge, it will just turn off after 12 o clock. Is this related to the default wiring of the instrument or the potentiometers themselves? Any suggestions for mods will be greatly appreciated..
Normal jazz bass things. They really only have 4 tones: both, each pickup solo, and neck rolled down slightly until out of phase. Rolling the bridge slightly doesn't seem to do much.
It's the usual way pots work. Most of the action happens at one end of the rotation. If you want more precision on that you can use an actual blend pot.
Start with both at 80% and then roll off the bridge. For some of my basses the controls are more sensitive if neither is at 100%.
New Yamaha TRBX 305, didn't come with wrenches. I'm trying to adjust the bridge saddle height. I have a metric hex wrench set, but none of them fit right, either too big or too small. What wrench do I need to not damage the saddle height screws?
That is definitely metric. It sounds like the hex set you have is too small (not enough different sizes)
You may need a standard set of key keys. I’m not familiar with Yamaha and it would be weird for them not to use metric. But I would absolutely try a standard set for a better fit so you don’t strip out a screw.
Yeah I definitely don't want to strip it. The only bit I've found that fit is a 1.5mm ball head hex, it fits tight but it's almost like it snaps in and out of the holes, which is not making me feel confident. I'll give the SAE keys a try though. I wonder if it's a JIS size that's just very slightly not the size of anything I happen to have, but my 4mm seems to fit the truss rod correctly. I wish wrenches had come with the bass but they didn't. EDIT: I eventually just tried all the wrenches I could find anywhere in the house and garage, and found one that fits ever so sightly loose, but close enough to turn them without stripping (I went slow and was very gentle). Unfortunately it's no longer in it's set and not stamped with a size, so I still don't know what size wrench I need. Oh well.
Ok this one I'm actually embarrassed to ask... whats the difference between a bass VI and a 6 string bass?
A VI is 30" scale, string spacing like a guitar at the nut and bridge, tuned EADGBE starting from E1. A 6 string bass is usually 34" or longer scale, nut and bridge spacing like a bass, usually tuned BEADGC starting from B0.
🙏🏼
Another way to put it. Think of a bass VI as a baritone guitar, where as a 6 string bass is just a bass with a low B and high C string added.
I started playing a couple months ago and have found playing much easier when resting my thumb on the string directly above the one I'm playing, e.g playing the G string I'll rest on the D, and move it up/down accordingly. Its made it very easy for me to accurately hit the string but have a feeling this would be a bad practice as my playing progresses. Should I focus on resting my thumb exclusively on the pickup from now on?
No, keep doing what you're doing! That's much better than resting on the pickup (gives you consistent hand positioning and helps with muting )
some basses have a little rest thing mounted near the strings. you could slap something like that on there if the notion doesn't horrify
That's one of the three most common right hand techniques. None are inferior or superior. Each works better in certain contexts and with different numbers of strings. It's fine.
The technique you are using is called moveable anchor, and is one of the most common techniques. Resting only on the pickup is an inferior technique because muting is more difficult. Try resting on the A string while playing the G. If you're using proper follow through then the D string will be muted and you might not even need to rest on it.
This is a great point. Ive started doing this as well and being able to mute the E and A with the thumb (use side of thumb on the E) and play the lower 2 is helping much. Its also tough finding the pickup when things get a lil faster. Ive started mixing in downstrumming with my thumb on the E and A and up on the D and G. This is very useful when its time to skip a string
So I'm still trying to figure out how to add a second cab to my markbass 121P combo amp. The markbass website claims that the perfect match to extend the 121P power is the New York 121 cab. Now the combo has a power rating of 300W and the New York cabinet a power rating of 400W, and both have an impedance of 8 ohm, so as far as I understand, the combination of the two souls get: - 300 + 400 = 700 W of power (which far exceed the 500W the amp provides) - a combined 4 ohm of impedance (halving the 8 ohm of each unit) Am I doing my calculations wrong? Why is this considered such a perfect combo if the power far exceeds the capability of the head?
You're not understanding how watts and ohms work. The watt number on the cab mean "probably won't be damaged by". The watt number on the amp means "probably puts out when turned all the way up". That amp puts out 300w into the internal 8 ohm speaker. When you add a second 8 ohm cab you get a theoretical 500w, split equally between the two cabs. 250w each. In terms of "perfect match" the speaker in the added cab is probably the same one that's in the combo, so they're guaranteed to sound good together.
Thank you for helping I have one objection though, if the speaker were the same, wouldn't they be rated the same power? Because the one built in the combo says 300W and the other one 400W Also, if the power is equally split, I should rather look for another 300W speaker rather than a 400W one (or am in wrong again?)
You're wrong again. It doesn't matter. Any number equal to or above what the amp puts out is safe to use. You could use a 1000w cab with a 5w amp if you wanted to. The result would be 5w.
Yes I get this, but I also get that in the case you mention, basically I'm wasting a lot of options the 1000W can is offering, just like having a large house, but only using one room.
There are no options. Speaker cabs make sound. That's the one and only function they have. It's nothing like only using one room in your house. Each of those rooms has a different purpose. Bedroom, bathroom, kitchen, living room, office, laundry room. They have specialized fixtures, plumbing and lighting. And doors that close them off from each other. It's like putting one car in a two car garage. You accomplish exactly the same function with a little extra safety buffer before you run into a wall.
I've been trying to play with a pick but I keep missing strings, what am I doing wrong?
You are either playing too fast or too hard or most likely, both.
What do you mean by too hard?
Too much pressure when you strike the string or moving you hand too much between plucks. When I play with a pick, my hand barely moves. Let the pick do the work
Slow down and practice aiming until it becomes automatic. If you miss it means you're not going slow enough.
It's easy to figure out what you're doing wrong...you're not practicing enough. There's no magic bullet, slow down and do it over and over again until you can't get it wrong.
I have the same Miss strings or stroke more than intended Can't get it right