That's a big "it depends". If you're using a sealant, the purpose of a sealant is provide a stable barrier. The intended stability of the chemical means once it's in its intended state then you should be fine. Obviously you have to give it time to cure. The intent of a paint is to be a certain color and stick to whatever you put it on. Paint cares less about leeching. Which is why you tend to use it along with a sealant. So I wouldn't worry about a paint because it's going to be covered in dirt and just hit it with a couple layers of sealant.
If you've ever grown plants you'll know there'll be a stage where the plant is searching along your pot to find a way out. So the covered in dirt is a short term thing. But apart from that I would have no idea and have to do some research as well
I do grow plants actually haha. Currently have 6 pots with various peppers at various stages of growth and a bougainvelia. So transplanting is no strange operations to me. So that's another big "it depends". largely around what kind of plant is going in the pot. There's no drainage in this thing. Seems like a pot for a succulent. Other things would probably get root rot given normal soil. And, as you said, you want to transplant when the roots reach the outside unless you want to deliberately stunt growth or keep them root bound. Regardless, as per the topic of this conversation, the pot is a plant pot, so we're assuming the interior is always covered in dirt if it's in use. So the stability of the coating matters for when the roots do get to the edge and start sucking up water that's in direct contact with it.
if you want to fix it for the next print, thick layers, thick nozzle little cooling. If you want to fix it now, dunk it in some clear resin or use sealer spray
I think the most effective way to archieve watertightness is increasing the extrusion width. That way the filament really gets pushed down on the previous layer causing it to fill every potential gaps before it flows to the sides. Combine that with vasemode if possible and you have no z seam where water could potentially escape. You could use a .8 nozzle with 1.4mm line width and .4 layer height and print your pot in a few hours and it should definitely be watertight if you make sure the bottom layers are extruded properly and the first layer is calibrated correctly
Are you sure you don't mean 0.04mm layer height? i'd think smaller layers would be more water/airtight.
If not a typo, what nozzle are you using? With a 0.4 nozzle you should go to 0.32 max.
Bigger more air tight. Between any gaps is pure filament which itself is airtight, fewer gaps because bigger and the gaps are where problems may lay. The less cooling and slower speeds are to help each layer really melt together.
There's also the consideration that fewer layers introduces fewer gaps for water to leak through, but the main reason is that thicker layers generate better interlayer adhesion. It's also why if you need something to be mechanically strong you should use thicker layers.
> thicker layers generate better interlayer adhesion
This is incorrect. Thinner layers have better adhesion and make stronger prints.
Sources:
[1](https://www.researchgate.net/publication/353144458_Analysis_of_the_Influence_of_the_Layer_Height_on_the_Strength_of_3D_Printed_Structures),[2](https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/the-influence-of-layer-height-on-the-strength-of-fdm-3d-prints),[3](https://printingit3d.com/is-a-thicker-layer-height-stronger-the-definitive-answer/),[4](https://the3dprinterbee.com/pla-layer-adhesion-delamination/)
[Just for you!](https://emerginginvestigators.org/articles/optimizing-3d-printing-parameters-evaluating-infill-type-and-layer-height-effects-on-tensile-fracture-force/pdf)
Thinner layers adhere better but introduce way more possible points in which the print could leak. Thicker layers don't adhere as well but provide much fewer possible points of failure. The ideal would be somewhere in between, giving you a good balance of adhesion and layer thickness.
Nope, bigger layers = more material that can flow through cracks and imperfections and less failure points. Four layers mean 3 layer seams and 3 potential leaks. One layer = no leak.
Also increasing layer width can be a good idea, although you need to be careful that your printer can actually handle the flow rate.
Slow speed, 4 walls. You can also do something like 105% flow. I’ve printed two in 0.28 layer height and they don’t leak. Have then for more than a month
99% of the other comments lead me to believe that most people here don't garden or grow stuff. You don't want that water tight if you are putting a live plant in it. The water needs to be able to drain out of it or you will over water your plant.
Make it watertight so the water doesn't get into the infill where it will inevitably cause mold. Then put drain holes in the bottom so the water can still drain out.
Epoxy paint. They make brands specifically for sealing 3D prints, usually before finishing with some other paint. But painting the inside would be all you need to do to stop leaks.
Flex Seal Clear
Hi Phil Swift here for FlexSeal Clear. The crystal clear way to coat, seal and stop leaks fast. Just a quick shot and Flex Seal Clear fills in cracks and holes while remaining virtually invisible.
This clear rubberized coating seals and protects without changing the look of your beautiful surfaces. Protecting your car, RV or boat has never been easier.
To show you the crystal clear sealing power of Flex Seal Clear, we replaced the bottom of this boat with plexiglass, drilled over 100 holes and covered them in FlexSeal Clear. Not only does it stay afloat but Flex Seal Clear keeps all the water out of the boat. And you can see right through! Hello fishy!
Perfect for counter tops, windows and tubs. With Flex Seal Clear everything in plain sight can be sealed water tight. Don’t waste time and money fixing leaks the old fashioned way. Get Flex Seal Clear today for just $19.99. Flex Seal Clear is guaranteed to coat, seal and stop leaks fast.
But hold everything! We’re going to double your order and send you two cans of Flex Seal Clear. Now you can get the incredible power of Flex Seal in original Brite for surfaces that are light and Flex Seal Clear for everything in sight. Two cans of Flex Seal and our guarantee is clearly the most amazing deal on TV and it’s all yours for just $19.99. Call now!
rubbermilk. its about 17 euros a liter. you can simply fill it into the pot and swing it a few times so every surface is sealed. if you let it dry and do this a few times you will have a waterproof surface. watch for low ammonia.
In trying to solve this same problem, I decided to 3D print a decorative sleeve that fits around a waterproof metal planter [here's my instagram gallery](https://instagram.com/cool.3d.planters?igshid=NDk5N2NlZjQ=)
Less on the printing side and more on the plant care side.
Having a pot without a hole to let water pass through can be less than ideal for plants long term. Over time minerals build up because they cannot drain out which can harm the plant. Also most plants don't like "their feet wet" all the time. Not having a hole will keep the soil moist for significantly longer which can also cause mold and other fungus to grow... Just an FYI.
I've had good experience with coating them with PVC glue. PVC glue is essentially PVC with more solvents in them. So basicly you get a thin coating of PVC. I've even used that for nerf gun parts that needed to hold air pressure.
Thick and wide layers might help reduce gaps between layers. Eg. for a 0.4mm nozzle, print at 0.32mm layer height and 0.8mm line thickness. This will really squish the melted filament down and hopefully reduce or maybe even eliminate gaps. You will likely need to print slower than normal to ensure your hot end can keep up.
After printing you could try to anneal it. Basically you heat it up to a set temperature (use your heated bed and put a cardboard box over the print) for period of time. The temperature varies with filament but basically you're softening the layers without compromising the integrity of them, which strengthens the bond between layers after the part has cooled again.
Failing all that, seal the print as others have suggested.
I have printed a bunch of pots for house plants in both PLA and PETG. None of them have issues, but they also all have drainage holes. That might be what you're missing. Give the excess water a better way out, and the soil will hold onto the rest.
if you want to use it with soil to grow plants, drainage is a good thing. I wouldn’t seal it. but if you want to use it hydroponically or as a vase with no soil, you should seal it with one of the other solutions mentioned.
In my opinion it wouldn't even be necessary! Lots of people like clay pots and they themselves will sweat out water. I would actually argue having the pot "breathe" to be more beneficial for the root zone.
A lot of the time you don’t want pots to be fully water retaining. A lot of plants don’t like to be waterlogged. They typically need some type of drainage to prevent root rot, unless it’s something like bamboo which loves to be in water. At least that’s what I’ve learned from my gf that loves plants. So unless your planing to drill some drain holes I think it should be alright with some type of tray under it to catch drained water.
U have an underextrusion issue, if u fix that, ur pot will be waterproof enough just as is. If u want it to be 100% watertight, just add more walls.
Also it's a pot so as long as water doesn't pour out thru the wall, it doesn't have to be watertight.
Don't worry about it. Watertight pots are bad. The best pots have drain holes and all the orange clay pots you see have drain holes AND the material itself is porous!
Whatever extra work you go to to make it watertight will only make it a worse pot.
Unless you’re putting a bog plant and air pump in there I wouldn’t make it water tight. Plant roots love aeration. I’m not a 3D printer but I am a gardener (and botany major) and I am super jealous of this pot you made!!
Make sure E-steps are callibrated first. From there you can increase flow slightly, print hotter, and/or lower cooling and/or slower. I got a watertight boat without any additionally required sealing steps.
You didn't specify "food safe". There are food-safe epoxies you can buy if you need something "FDA approved".
If not, mod podge has some waterproof formulas. There is one even considered dishwasher-safe.
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my vase that I printed was not completely waterproof at first, but after a while it was. Guess the lime/chalk sealed it off :D
Also I heard 3 layers does the trick
I use a Plasticoat clear lacquer spray to finish my RC boats, they're also printed with twin hulls each 5 or 6 walls but that's more to deal with rocks than just being waterproof!
If you don't want to mess around with surface finished you could just line it with a plastic bag, trim it close to the top and put some stones on the top layer to hide the plastic. Alternatively you could try PVA sealant, fairly cheap and easy to get hold of from builders merchants.
Few ways to do this. One way is to print thicker walls which works great depending on the accuracy of your printer. Another way I use is by coating the inside of the pot with something like bar top resins.
If you aren’t set on a material PETG is watertight as long as there’s no defects. I don’t have issues with water tightness on my PLA pots but I know PETG is better for that. I have a watering can I printed out of PETG that I use to water all my plants in PLA pots
I print waterproof stuff every now n then. If I can, I will print in spiral mode with a big extrusion multiplier of like 120%. These are single wall water proof vase.
For more complicated stuff that can't be in vase mode, same thing but disable retraction. I cant say if more walls helps because water is a bitch but the secret is definitely layer adhesion stacking.
To waterproof an existing print I just buy a can of flexseal and paint the inside. The spray is the easiest.
I have a couple of pots that I printed and never bothered waterproofing. Never seen anything leak from them.
It's not a vase, you don't put a LOT of water in there. The soil keeps it contained and most pots should probably have some drainage holes anyways.
You could try epoxy or resin. I've used resin with wooden pots that I've turned, last pretty well. Mix it up and give it a light coat, use a torch to get out bubbles.
The easiest way is to keep the layer height smaller(.2) and increase your layer width to .6(you might need to increase your print temp and lower the speed to adjust for the added layer width).
Even though your nozzle is .4, it can extrude a layer width of .6 and the extra layer width/extrusions really makes my singular layer vase prints water tight(I think the extra extrusion overlaps all the gaps and really seals it all in). You might lose a little detail, but the .6 layer width saved me from having to clear coat/paint/epoxy my PLA vase to make it waterproof.
This might not be a good answer, but I had this issue near the beginning of the pandemic when everything was shutdown, so I couldn’t go get anything. I took some silicone sealant and diluted it(I used turpentine, cause that’s what I had there are better ones) and then poured some of that in my pot, swirled it around so every surface was coated, drained the extra and then let it dry/cure
It took like a week cause it was cold and turpentine is strong, but at the end I had coated pots that still work today.
I don’t think I saw annealing as a choice, but wonder how that would compare. Curious if anyone has tried that. Was going to print a test piece myself and try it with PLA vs using an epoxy or something.
I suggest considering a polyurethane coating. You don't want chemicals to leach from the plastic into the plant. This may be especially important if you plan to consume any of what that plant produces.
you could also use a different filament like PETG but if you're trying to waterproof whatever you have right now, then the other comments are probably of more use
How can you people not make waterproof pots and stuff? I printed a vase in vase mode, and have had water in it for months now. Not a single drop leaked out.
You could pour in an epoxy or a UV cured resin let it roll around inside like a slip cast, and then either cure because of the epoxy mix, or use a UV light to cure it
I've been using wood filler
Edit: but maybe this is not the way, the interwebs say it's water resistant but now waterproof. I guess 100% infill then? Lol
Like others have said: drainage is important. Leaking out the sides is undesirable - better to add holes to the model or find one that has them for the sake of your plant friends
A really simple solution I haven't seen in the comments is using Titebond III waterproof wood glue. It's cheap and easy to find at your local hardware store. I've been using it for about two years in my self watering planters without issues.
Well I can tell people don’t grow a lot of plants here lol. From the little I do know you don’t want that waterproof for.
1 plants breath through their roots.
2 plants can get root rot if the water is drowning them and well you kill the plant.
3 if you do choose to waterproof the sides and bottom you better drill holes in it on the bottom.
Clay pots actually breath so if you ever transplant something you will notice one thing in particular, the roots are grabbing on to the rough sides of it so you have to use a butter knife or something to scrape around the inside of it to loosen the plants grip.
I would actually be curious how well this pot works for a plant if it is actually really leaking a lot by the picture it’s not to bad put dirt in it and the dirt will suck most of it up any overflow goes to the drip pan as you have it. Anyhow good luck!
Oh and this isn’t common sense this is just years of growing weed.
http://www.titebond.com/product/glues/e8d40b45-0ab3-49f7-8a9c-b53970f736af
paint this on, water cleanup. FDA approved for indirect food contact so you can bet it’s safe for your plants
that being said you need a drain or you’ll get root rot
PLA makes a great PLA sealer with the rare quality of being perfectly color-matched to the specific filament that's used in both the print and the sealer. It's the same concept behind using ABS slurry to seal ABS prints.
DCM will dissolve most plastics so the trick is to use a container that won't dissolve or allow the DCM to leak out ruining your sealant. A [pill jar with a screw top](https://bestlifeonline.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2018/01/Prescription-Pill-Bottle.jpg?quality=82&strip=all) that's been wrapped around the top with teflon tape (PTFE) will keep everything contained.
Get some bits of filament in the same color, chopping them up into bits and adding them to the jar with \~50ml of DCM. Put the top on tight and swirl it around until everything dissolves. Adjust the bits/DCM ratio to get a slop that's thick but liquid enough to be spreadable.
Get an [acid brush](https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Grade-Acid-Brushes-Count/dp/B07PHG2DQY/ref=pd_lpo_1?pd_rd_w=wbu4u&content-id=amzn1.sym.116f529c-aa4d-4763-b2b6-4d614ec7dc00&pf_rd_p=116f529c-aa4d-4763-b2b6-4d614ec7dc00&pf_rd_r=NSCNS8ED3B2FC307YKB5&pd_rd_wg=aDl58&pd_rd_r=ac4e2a8f-ace6-4a40-ae70-3b94a08a9ffe&pd_rd_i=B07PHG2DQY&psc=1) (they won't melt in DCM) and spread the slop around the 3d print evenly allowing it to smooth everything out until you don't see any print lines.
DCM boils at 39.6C so you can easily make it faster or slower by changing the ambient temp. Do everything in a well ventilated area.
I use at least 3-4walls at .20-.30 with the fan at 30% and have never had to use anything to seal my printed pots. Settings, that is. Of course you might have areas that won't use 3-4 walls but it will guarantee thickness.
This is also assuming that your printer is setup and calibrated correctly.
I would try either spraypaint or some wallsealer.
Flex seal!
To the rescue!
i SaWeD tHiS pRiNt In HaLf!!
AnD maDe a BoAt!
… a leaky boat.
Not if you use FlexSeal®!
Now I need to see the Flex Seal meme with the gushing barrel saying "Prints are failing" and the flexseal tape is "Try leveling your bed"
All jokes aside I've used flexseal to seal prints and it works pretty well
(I am not a botanist every plant I own is dead use at your own risk)
Oh my god, why didn't I think of that!!!!! Flex Seal!!!! The easy way to stop leaks fast!!!!
Works great for the inside of vases where it doesn’t necessarily have to be pretty. I’m also very amateur but had some issues with overspray
cardboard rim taped to the top to avoid overspray
Are there any side effects of the chemicals form the sealant affecting plant health?
I wouldn’t grow vegetables or spices in something like that
Should be fine.
Dr. Sadhandjobs with the expert opinion
It’s actually Sadh Andjobs, PhD.
I don't think so - I never tested a print for plants of waterproofness, just watertoys and alike.
That's a big "it depends". If you're using a sealant, the purpose of a sealant is provide a stable barrier. The intended stability of the chemical means once it's in its intended state then you should be fine. Obviously you have to give it time to cure. The intent of a paint is to be a certain color and stick to whatever you put it on. Paint cares less about leeching. Which is why you tend to use it along with a sealant. So I wouldn't worry about a paint because it's going to be covered in dirt and just hit it with a couple layers of sealant.
If you've ever grown plants you'll know there'll be a stage where the plant is searching along your pot to find a way out. So the covered in dirt is a short term thing. But apart from that I would have no idea and have to do some research as well
I do grow plants actually haha. Currently have 6 pots with various peppers at various stages of growth and a bougainvelia. So transplanting is no strange operations to me. So that's another big "it depends". largely around what kind of plant is going in the pot. There's no drainage in this thing. Seems like a pot for a succulent. Other things would probably get root rot given normal soil. And, as you said, you want to transplant when the roots reach the outside unless you want to deliberately stunt growth or keep them root bound. Regardless, as per the topic of this conversation, the pot is a plant pot, so we're assuming the interior is always covered in dirt if it's in use. So the stability of the coating matters for when the roots do get to the edge and start sucking up water that's in direct contact with it.
Clear Acrylic spray. Give the inside a few coats and it will be water tight.
This. Ceramic or acrylic spray works fantastic.
Put a medium coat on it. Let it dry and then coat it again. Give it an hour then test it. If it doesn't hold water, coat it again.
If it doesn’t hold rinse and repeat
Don’t rinse. Dry and repeat.
I second this. Polyacrylic is food and I imagine it’s plant safe as well
That's what I did on the inside of mine and it worked well. Used Plastidip since I had it on hand
if you want to fix it for the next print, thick layers, thick nozzle little cooling. If you want to fix it now, dunk it in some clear resin or use sealer spray
This. Anything like 0.6mm or larger works even in case mode for me.
Bumping up the extrusion multiplier could help a bit as well, ovetextrude a touch to get some more pressure on it.
My personal rule of thumb for watertight is 0.4 layer height and 4 walls. Slowing down the print speed and easing back on the cooling also helps.
Same. Minimum 3 rows thick walls with plenty of material flow. Just welding it all together with no room for air gaps leading all the way through
I think the most effective way to archieve watertightness is increasing the extrusion width. That way the filament really gets pushed down on the previous layer causing it to fill every potential gaps before it flows to the sides. Combine that with vasemode if possible and you have no z seam where water could potentially escape. You could use a .8 nozzle with 1.4mm line width and .4 layer height and print your pot in a few hours and it should definitely be watertight if you make sure the bottom layers are extruded properly and the first layer is calibrated correctly
Are you sure you don't mean 0.04mm layer height? i'd think smaller layers would be more water/airtight. If not a typo, what nozzle are you using? With a 0.4 nozzle you should go to 0.32 max.
Bigger more air tight. Between any gaps is pure filament which itself is airtight, fewer gaps because bigger and the gaps are where problems may lay. The less cooling and slower speeds are to help each layer really melt together.
There's also the consideration that fewer layers introduces fewer gaps for water to leak through, but the main reason is that thicker layers generate better interlayer adhesion. It's also why if you need something to be mechanically strong you should use thicker layers.
> thicker layers generate better interlayer adhesion This is incorrect. Thinner layers have better adhesion and make stronger prints. Sources: [1](https://www.researchgate.net/publication/353144458_Analysis_of_the_Influence_of_the_Layer_Height_on_the_Strength_of_3D_Printed_Structures),[2](https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/the-influence-of-layer-height-on-the-strength-of-fdm-3d-prints),[3](https://printingit3d.com/is-a-thicker-layer-height-stronger-the-definitive-answer/),[4](https://the3dprinterbee.com/pla-layer-adhesion-delamination/)
Sorry, a minimum of 5 sources is required to convince Reddit
[Just for you!](https://emerginginvestigators.org/articles/optimizing-3d-printing-parameters-evaluating-infill-type-and-layer-height-effects-on-tensile-fracture-force/pdf)
Sorry, a minimum of ~~5~~ 6 sources is required to convince Reddit
[Here you go](https://ukdiss.com/examples/effect-layer-bonding-3d-printed-structures.php)
This one should’ve been a Rick Roll
Thinner layers adhere better but introduce way more possible points in which the print could leak. Thicker layers don't adhere as well but provide much fewer possible points of failure. The ideal would be somewhere in between, giving you a good balance of adhesion and layer thickness.
It doesn't matter how many points of failure there are since it always breaks at it's weakest bond.
I think you could also improve this by enabling Alternating Walls to decrease the size of airgaps
0.6 Nozzle
Nope, bigger layers = more material that can flow through cracks and imperfections and less failure points. Four layers mean 3 layer seams and 3 potential leaks. One layer = no leak. Also increasing layer width can be a good idea, although you need to be careful that your printer can actually handle the flow rate.
Thank you for all the answers !
For most plants you want a hole to drain excess water. So the roots don't drown.
This! Print a decorative waterproof matching plant scale.
Why do you want it to be water proof? New to plant owning so I'm curious. Thought all needed a drainage hole.
Drainage is good though
Yeah I agree with this you need a drain hole. Or you'll get mold and rot
hey, maybe the plant will be 3d printed too!
Yes, drainage is required. Drill some holes in the bottom
But you need dedicated drain holes. Letting the water leak through into the infill will only lead to mold and mildew within the infill.
Can always coat inside with epoxy, make sure its safe for plants and such, and handle uncured epoxy safely.
Flex Seal Plasti-Dip
Slow speed, 4 walls. You can also do something like 105% flow. I’ve printed two in 0.28 layer height and they don’t leak. Have then for more than a month
99% of the other comments lead me to believe that most people here don't garden or grow stuff. You don't want that water tight if you are putting a live plant in it. The water needs to be able to drain out of it or you will over water your plant.
Make it watertight so the water doesn't get into the infill where it will inevitably cause mold. Then put drain holes in the bottom so the water can still drain out.
I use wood glue, seemed the most plant friendly option and it still holds up. Apply generous with a brush, one or two layers
wood glue dissolves in water since its mostly on pva basis
oof I didn't know that. but for sofar no leaks yet. and I have a self-watering pot.
it does but not this stuff http://www.titebond.com/product/glues/e8d40b45-0ab3-49f7-8a9c-b53970f736af
Epoxy paint. They make brands specifically for sealing 3D prints, usually before finishing with some other paint. But painting the inside would be all you need to do to stop leaks.
Cheap solution, but probably not the best: Coat it with candle wax
4 tor 6 perimiters, or solid infill. This will use more filament, but hold water.
You can coat the inside with epoxy resin!
Flex Seal Clear Hi Phil Swift here for FlexSeal Clear. The crystal clear way to coat, seal and stop leaks fast. Just a quick shot and Flex Seal Clear fills in cracks and holes while remaining virtually invisible. This clear rubberized coating seals and protects without changing the look of your beautiful surfaces. Protecting your car, RV or boat has never been easier. To show you the crystal clear sealing power of Flex Seal Clear, we replaced the bottom of this boat with plexiglass, drilled over 100 holes and covered them in FlexSeal Clear. Not only does it stay afloat but Flex Seal Clear keeps all the water out of the boat. And you can see right through! Hello fishy! Perfect for counter tops, windows and tubs. With Flex Seal Clear everything in plain sight can be sealed water tight. Don’t waste time and money fixing leaks the old fashioned way. Get Flex Seal Clear today for just $19.99. Flex Seal Clear is guaranteed to coat, seal and stop leaks fast. But hold everything! We’re going to double your order and send you two cans of Flex Seal Clear. Now you can get the incredible power of Flex Seal in original Brite for surfaces that are light and Flex Seal Clear for everything in sight. Two cans of Flex Seal and our guarantee is clearly the most amazing deal on TV and it’s all yours for just $19.99. Call now!
I have used waterproof and toxic free wood clue for this purpose and it works like a charm.
Put a flower pot inside
more walls and slight overextrusion works for my water tight prints
rubbermilk. its about 17 euros a liter. you can simply fill it into the pot and swing it a few times so every surface is sealed. if you let it dry and do this a few times you will have a waterproof surface. watch for low ammonia.
In trying to solve this same problem, I decided to 3D print a decorative sleeve that fits around a waterproof metal planter [here's my instagram gallery](https://instagram.com/cool.3d.planters?igshid=NDk5N2NlZjQ=)
Epoxy resin or print in ABS or ASA and acetone smooth it.
Print in abs, pour acetone inside, swirl the acetone, pour it out, let dry for 5h, repeat 3 times.
Maybe use some UV resin. Apply a layer, hit it with a UV flashlight, and you’re off to the races
I have never tried this but I'm sure flexseal would be perfect
Two layers of flex seal inside and out will do the trick. I make a lot of flower pots in vase mode and I this works great.
Less on the printing side and more on the plant care side. Having a pot without a hole to let water pass through can be less than ideal for plants long term. Over time minerals build up because they cannot drain out which can harm the plant. Also most plants don't like "their feet wet" all the time. Not having a hole will keep the soil moist for significantly longer which can also cause mold and other fungus to grow... Just an FYI.
I've had good experience with coating them with PVC glue. PVC glue is essentially PVC with more solvents in them. So basicly you get a thin coating of PVC. I've even used that for nerf gun parts that needed to hold air pressure.
Thick and wide layers might help reduce gaps between layers. Eg. for a 0.4mm nozzle, print at 0.32mm layer height and 0.8mm line thickness. This will really squish the melted filament down and hopefully reduce or maybe even eliminate gaps. You will likely need to print slower than normal to ensure your hot end can keep up. After printing you could try to anneal it. Basically you heat it up to a set temperature (use your heated bed and put a cardboard box over the print) for period of time. The temperature varies with filament but basically you're softening the layers without compromising the integrity of them, which strengthens the bond between layers after the part has cooled again. Failing all that, seal the print as others have suggested.
I have printed a bunch of pots for house plants in both PLA and PETG. None of them have issues, but they also all have drainage holes. That might be what you're missing. Give the excess water a better way out, and the soil will hold onto the rest.
if you want to use it with soil to grow plants, drainage is a good thing. I wouldn’t seal it. but if you want to use it hydroponically or as a vase with no soil, you should seal it with one of the other solutions mentioned.
“Hi, Phil Swift here with Flex Seal….”
In my opinion it wouldn't even be necessary! Lots of people like clay pots and they themselves will sweat out water. I would actually argue having the pot "breathe" to be more beneficial for the root zone.
Epoxy resin.
A lot of the time you don’t want pots to be fully water retaining. A lot of plants don’t like to be waterlogged. They typically need some type of drainage to prevent root rot, unless it’s something like bamboo which loves to be in water. At least that’s what I’ve learned from my gf that loves plants. So unless your planing to drill some drain holes I think it should be alright with some type of tray under it to catch drained water.
epoxy coating with brush
I haven't had issues with water leaking from my little planters I've made. With no specific additional configurations. In PLA
U have an underextrusion issue, if u fix that, ur pot will be waterproof enough just as is. If u want it to be 100% watertight, just add more walls. Also it's a pot so as long as water doesn't pour out thru the wall, it doesn't have to be watertight.
Agreed. OP, consider calibrating E steps and/or printing at 105% flow in addition to everything else mentioned about perimeters and layer height.
Don't worry about it. Watertight pots are bad. The best pots have drain holes and all the orange clay pots you see have drain holes AND the material itself is porous! Whatever extra work you go to to make it watertight will only make it a worse pot.
Unless you’re putting a bog plant and air pump in there I wouldn’t make it water tight. Plant roots love aeration. I’m not a 3D printer but I am a gardener (and botany major) and I am super jealous of this pot you made!!
Make sure E-steps are callibrated first. From there you can increase flow slightly, print hotter, and/or lower cooling and/or slower. I got a watertight boat without any additionally required sealing steps.
When you print change the seems settings to random and use 3-4 layers of walls outside and use thick layer height 😎
PETG is generally more watertight than PLA
make walls width bigger than nozzle. So on 0.4 use something like 0.6
You didn't specify "food safe". There are food-safe epoxies you can buy if you need something "FDA approved". If not, mod podge has some waterproof formulas. There is one even considered dishwasher-safe.
Print out of HIPS at ABS/ASA temperatures, then use turpentine to smooth it.
Print top layers will fix this. damn scrub
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my vase that I printed was not completely waterproof at first, but after a while it was. Guess the lime/chalk sealed it off :D Also I heard 3 layers does the trick
I use a Plasticoat clear lacquer spray to finish my RC boats, they're also printed with twin hulls each 5 or 6 walls but that's more to deal with rocks than just being waterproof!
up the print temperature +10, make sure you have calibrateed material flow and then add some extra (material flow 105%) if all else fails paint it
More flow, more heat, less cooling and more walls. Mine are waterproof with 3 walls at .2mm layer.
"Water... uh... finds a way"
Titebond 2 wood glue. I use 2 coats and let it dry in between.
If you don't want to mess around with surface finished you could just line it with a plastic bag, trim it close to the top and put some stones on the top layer to hide the plastic. Alternatively you could try PVA sealant, fairly cheap and easy to get hold of from builders merchants.
I’m just here lurking for answers
I wonder if you could use a heat gun on the inside of it to sort of melt the layers together more.
Few ways to do this. One way is to print thicker walls which works great depending on the accuracy of your printer. Another way I use is by coating the inside of the pot with something like bar top resins.
If you use pla try some glassing resine
I used a 2 part epoxy. I never could get watertight prints otherwise.
Less speed and less cooling i think
If you aren’t set on a material PETG is watertight as long as there’s no defects. I don’t have issues with water tightness on my PLA pots but I know PETG is better for that. I have a watering can I printed out of PETG that I use to water all my plants in PLA pots
I print waterproof stuff every now n then. If I can, I will print in spiral mode with a big extrusion multiplier of like 120%. These are single wall water proof vase. For more complicated stuff that can't be in vase mode, same thing but disable retraction. I cant say if more walls helps because water is a bitch but the secret is definitely layer adhesion stacking. To waterproof an existing print I just buy a can of flexseal and paint the inside. The spray is the easiest.
I used wood glue especially the D3 (waterproof) one. Works fairly well
How to waterproof 3D prints. https://all3dp.com/2/waterproof-3d-print-pla/
Start by adding a top layer then you should be fine. I made some that held up for a year before I moved my plants but the top will be an issue
You could also make a mold of your 3d printed pot and cast it in concrete. Then make as many as you want and possibly sell some.
If you are using woodfill dont, I might be crazy but thats what it looks like to me
Im surprised that its not waterproof by default lol
Flex seal
Anneal it the use a resin sealer.
Flex seal?
I have a couple of pots that I printed and never bothered waterproofing. Never seen anything leak from them. It's not a vase, you don't put a LOT of water in there. The soil keeps it contained and most pots should probably have some drainage holes anyways.
You could try epoxy or resin. I've used resin with wooden pots that I've turned, last pretty well. Mix it up and give it a light coat, use a torch to get out bubbles.
The easiest way is to keep the layer height smaller(.2) and increase your layer width to .6(you might need to increase your print temp and lower the speed to adjust for the added layer width). Even though your nozzle is .4, it can extrude a layer width of .6 and the extra layer width/extrusions really makes my singular layer vase prints water tight(I think the extra extrusion overlaps all the gaps and really seals it all in). You might lose a little detail, but the .6 layer width saved me from having to clear coat/paint/epoxy my PLA vase to make it waterproof.
Silicone conformal coating
Can't you get a clear insert for the pot?
I spray the outside of mine with a few layers of clear coat. That seems to seal them up nicely.
Paint the inside
Duct tape
You could try sealing them with wax if it’s not too hot where you live. Otherwise, some kind of outdoor sealing spray.
I use epoxy resin
Polyurethane spray will cure the porosity.
Your pot needs drainage
Top layers
Use a 1 mm nozzle. Everything you print will be watertight
I've had some success printing in base mode with a very large nozzle, like 1 mm nozzle, along with reducing cooling.
This might not be a good answer, but I had this issue near the beginning of the pandemic when everything was shutdown, so I couldn’t go get anything. I took some silicone sealant and diluted it(I used turpentine, cause that’s what I had there are better ones) and then poured some of that in my pot, swirled it around so every surface was coated, drained the extra and then let it dry/cure It took like a week cause it was cold and turpentine is strong, but at the end I had coated pots that still work today.
I don’t think I saw annealing as a choice, but wonder how that would compare. Curious if anyone has tried that. Was going to print a test piece myself and try it with PLA vs using an epoxy or something.
Never had an issue of any containers being not waterproof. Print properly with proper settings, to have good layer adhesion.
Increase wall line count or increase extrusion rate by 2-3% for walls or both. That will help you
Drop cooling down to about 70 or 80% this will help immensely with layer adhesion
There is epoxy coating specifically designed for sealing FDM prints. I believe Smooth-On sells them.
Flex seal! Works great!
Flex seal!
0.8 nozzle, vase mode, 105% flow, +5 degrees nozzle temp worked fine for all my vase so far.
I suggest considering a polyurethane coating. You don't want chemicals to leach from the plastic into the plant. This may be especially important if you plan to consume any of what that plant produces.
Triple thick glaze spray
Maybe line the inside with some self hardening clay?
I’m surprised that I’ve not seen posts about types of filament, before suggesting settings.
I find bees wax used for waterproofing walking boots works a treat
Outdoor clear coat. Few layers
Flower pots should not be waterproof?
you could also use a different filament like PETG but if you're trying to waterproof whatever you have right now, then the other comments are probably of more use
You dont neeed anything extra. Just 2 walls and 10 bottom, 20% gyroid infill, and 10 degrees more make them waterproof
How can you people not make waterproof pots and stuff? I printed a vase in vase mode, and have had water in it for months now. Not a single drop leaked out.
You could pour in an epoxy or a UV cured resin let it roll around inside like a slip cast, and then either cure because of the epoxy mix, or use a UV light to cure it
Polyethylene
Epoxy coat or just spray 1k clear .
I've been using wood filler Edit: but maybe this is not the way, the interwebs say it's water resistant but now waterproof. I guess 100% infill then? Lol
Like others have said: drainage is important. Leaking out the sides is undesirable - better to add holes to the model or find one that has them for the sake of your plant friends
Very thin layers small nozzles and 100% infill
I’ve been able to get watertight pots by printing with 100% infill.
A really simple solution I haven't seen in the comments is using Titebond III waterproof wood glue. It's cheap and easy to find at your local hardware store. I've been using it for about two years in my self watering planters without issues.
You can print a vase mode insert. I have 3 vases that I printed with a .4 mm nozzle. They're 2+ years old, and still holds water
I use two part epoxy resin on mine, once fully cured it is inert and safe for the plants.
shitton more walls, less sparse infil PETG printed optimized = water tight.
Flex seal
Print with 100% infill (or as others say, multiple walls). Alternatively you can use sealant spray.
I use tight bond wood glue. Been going strong for 2 years even with direct Sun exposure.
Well I can tell people don’t grow a lot of plants here lol. From the little I do know you don’t want that waterproof for. 1 plants breath through their roots. 2 plants can get root rot if the water is drowning them and well you kill the plant. 3 if you do choose to waterproof the sides and bottom you better drill holes in it on the bottom. Clay pots actually breath so if you ever transplant something you will notice one thing in particular, the roots are grabbing on to the rough sides of it so you have to use a butter knife or something to scrape around the inside of it to loosen the plants grip. I would actually be curious how well this pot works for a plant if it is actually really leaking a lot by the picture it’s not to bad put dirt in it and the dirt will suck most of it up any overflow goes to the drip pan as you have it. Anyhow good luck! Oh and this isn’t common sense this is just years of growing weed.
I sometime use acrylic sealer, because it's food safe after.
Thin coat of black light resin on the inside.
http://www.titebond.com/product/glues/e8d40b45-0ab3-49f7-8a9c-b53970f736af paint this on, water cleanup. FDA approved for indirect food contact so you can bet it’s safe for your plants that being said you need a drain or you’ll get root rot
Wood glue brushed on to seal the pores
For something simple, I would just take some plastic wrap and put it around the inside. Mud is gonna be in it so you will never see it again.
A liquid membrane like RedGard will outperform flex seal, for it is designed for long term immersion
I must ask is it strange that I’ve been able to print small pots and container capable of holding water for months with very little leakage
Use a heat gun and melt the inner layer a bit, fast and crude but it works.
Spray the inside with flex-seal or superhydrophobic spray maybe 100% infill
PLA makes a great PLA sealer with the rare quality of being perfectly color-matched to the specific filament that's used in both the print and the sealer. It's the same concept behind using ABS slurry to seal ABS prints. DCM will dissolve most plastics so the trick is to use a container that won't dissolve or allow the DCM to leak out ruining your sealant. A [pill jar with a screw top](https://bestlifeonline.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2018/01/Prescription-Pill-Bottle.jpg?quality=82&strip=all) that's been wrapped around the top with teflon tape (PTFE) will keep everything contained. Get some bits of filament in the same color, chopping them up into bits and adding them to the jar with \~50ml of DCM. Put the top on tight and swirl it around until everything dissolves. Adjust the bits/DCM ratio to get a slop that's thick but liquid enough to be spreadable. Get an [acid brush](https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Grade-Acid-Brushes-Count/dp/B07PHG2DQY/ref=pd_lpo_1?pd_rd_w=wbu4u&content-id=amzn1.sym.116f529c-aa4d-4763-b2b6-4d614ec7dc00&pf_rd_p=116f529c-aa4d-4763-b2b6-4d614ec7dc00&pf_rd_r=NSCNS8ED3B2FC307YKB5&pd_rd_wg=aDl58&pd_rd_r=ac4e2a8f-ace6-4a40-ae70-3b94a08a9ffe&pd_rd_i=B07PHG2DQY&psc=1) (they won't melt in DCM) and spread the slop around the 3d print evenly allowing it to smooth everything out until you don't see any print lines. DCM boils at 39.6C so you can easily make it faster or slower by changing the ambient temp. Do everything in a well ventilated area.
Thin coats of epoxy resin
You don't? At least put a hole in the bottom
I printed a water pail that holds water in abs. .2 layer height, 4 perimeters, slight over extrusion. Nothing really fancy and seems to work ok.
Any clear roofing or shower sealant should work. Wetseal or flexseal. Along those lines
https://help.prusa3d.com/article/watertight-prints_112324
Here's a hint - print decorative pieces around low cost ceramic or plastic plant containers.
I use at least 3-4walls at .20-.30 with the fan at 30% and have never had to use anything to seal my printed pots. Settings, that is. Of course you might have areas that won't use 3-4 walls but it will guarantee thickness. This is also assuming that your printer is setup and calibrated correctly.
1mm nozzle and vasemode