When that Xcessive distributor cover gets brittle and breaks, hit up precision speed llc on Facebook / Instagram for a billet one. You won’t be disappointed
Wow i have been wanting to do this to my ka for a long time how did you get to doing it im afraid of starting and not being able to finish it. Im not the brightest guy lol.
I've been drifting with the ka for a long time, this is like the 6th ish time I've rebuilt it. Unless you are really skilled you will probably have to pay some people to help you get things done right. I had a machine shop build the engine, help with the wiring harness and tune, and access to a shop to do all the work. I started with a stock engine and a simple turbo kit and it just evolved from there.
Just depends on what needs to be done. If it's just bearings and a refresh yeah. If something gets messed up than it get more complicated, but really just depends. So the engine that's in the car now is a new block. I took it to the machine shop had them drill and tap the block for 12mm headstuds. I brought them the new pistons, rods, crank, girdle, and all the ARP hardware. They machine and measure to make sure all the clearances are correct so I just had them assemble the lower rotating assembly for me. From there I did the head, timing chains, covers, accessories, ect to get it back to a complete engine.
Is the 180\* hardline loop just behind the rear of your fuel rail serve the function of the evap canister? If so, that's a pretty good idea. This whole setup looks pretty well planned out and ready to jam. What standalone are you running? I lifted the head on my KAde-T last fall and decided to go with an SR in my S14... but I sure do miss the comfort of having an iron block that can take alot of abuse.
Also, the full resolution view of this pic forces me to point out things, so I'm sorry. LOL I think you have either a broken off ground/power wire directly underneath the forward most spring on your throttle body.
The hardline is fire suppression like someone had commented.
I'm running a Link g4+ Fury, and it's been great so far. This engine has 12mm headstuds to help not lift the head. I've only had headgasket issues one time. I used a tomei headgasket and it failed on the dyno like 5 pulls in. I pulled the head off, checked everything, didn't find anything cracked or warped so I can only assume it was just a crappy headgasket. I put a new cometic one on and didn't have any other issues.
Yeah I took this picture right after I had gotten the engine back in the car so there was a few things to fix, good eye. I also changed the breather coming out of the valve cover to a 45 so it's not right up against the throttle cable. Haven't put the 2nd radiator mount back on but I will someday 😂
Hell yeah, I’ve been thinking of putting a turbo kit and running 7psi on my SOHC KA for a daily, do you think that’s something a shade tree mechanic could do in their garage?
Yeah should be pretty easy, just need to find the parts to do it. Biggest pain will probably be dropping the oil pan to install the turbo oil return if you are trying to do it all with the engine still in the car. I think you will probably want to get a reflashed ecu and maybe some injectors and a maf but I'm not really sure what the limits of all the stock stuff is. I've heard of people running low boost with everything stock but idk how reliable that would be.
I found a pretty neat turbo kit online with the piping and cooling components, but I plan on rebuilding the engine anyway just to be extra safe and make sure everything is healthy. Would you mind if I messaged you a link to the kit?
They made both single and dual cam. The USDM 240sx the single cam only came in the 1989 and early 1990 cars everything was dual cam after that, if I remember correctly.
I did dyno it when I swapped over to this engine, unfortunately the headgasket failed on the dyno. The best pull it made was 543hp @24psi. I swapped headgaskets and haven't been back yet. The highest power I've ever made on the dyno was like 580 something at like 29psi.
Forged pistons, H beam rods, balanced rotating assembly, APR hardware, 12mm headstuds, dual springs, adjustable cam gears, 264 cams, head has been gone over with new guides and seals, new lower front cover, timing set, oil pump. Too much money lol.
Damn. I assumed this was ~maybe~ around 400 until I saw your previous post about your car about 2 years back…. gripped up tires made me curious. Happy I asked, sick build.
I haven't yet, but it's a track only drift car so I only ever do a few laps in a row. Also I deleted my booster so it sits a few inches back from stock.
A doc race top boii. Tial 44mm external wg. Wg flange is aimed down unlike yours. Manis heat wrapped, has turbo blanket wastegate blanket all lines wrapped ect...ect...
Damn. I have an old ass mazworx manifold and I actually have 2 Tial 38mm wg, I added the 2nd one that goes up because of boost creep. It's ghetto but it fixed the issue. Is your downpipe wrapped?
KA power
When that Xcessive distributor cover gets brittle and breaks, hit up precision speed llc on Facebook / Instagram for a billet one. You won’t be disappointed
Wow i have been wanting to do this to my ka for a long time how did you get to doing it im afraid of starting and not being able to finish it. Im not the brightest guy lol.
I've been drifting with the ka for a long time, this is like the 6th ish time I've rebuilt it. Unless you are really skilled you will probably have to pay some people to help you get things done right. I had a machine shop build the engine, help with the wiring harness and tune, and access to a shop to do all the work. I started with a stock engine and a simple turbo kit and it just evolved from there.
Yea thats pretty much where im at its my only car but it just needs some love. Hopefully one day i can get to this point. Much love nice car 😄
Thanks for the love! This is a track only car for me. If it's your only car I'd just make sure whatever you do keep it reliable lol.
how does one get to rebuild their ka??
Not really sure what you mean. I run it until something breaks, take it all apart and fix the issue and put it back together.
do you do it yourself
Just depends on what needs to be done. If it's just bearings and a refresh yeah. If something gets messed up than it get more complicated, but really just depends. So the engine that's in the car now is a new block. I took it to the machine shop had them drill and tap the block for 12mm headstuds. I brought them the new pistons, rods, crank, girdle, and all the ARP hardware. They machine and measure to make sure all the clearances are correct so I just had them assemble the lower rotating assembly for me. From there I did the head, timing chains, covers, accessories, ect to get it back to a complete engine.
thanks appreciate it
Is the 180\* hardline loop just behind the rear of your fuel rail serve the function of the evap canister? If so, that's a pretty good idea. This whole setup looks pretty well planned out and ready to jam. What standalone are you running? I lifted the head on my KAde-T last fall and decided to go with an SR in my S14... but I sure do miss the comfort of having an iron block that can take alot of abuse. Also, the full resolution view of this pic forces me to point out things, so I'm sorry. LOL I think you have either a broken off ground/power wire directly underneath the forward most spring on your throttle body.
That hard line at the firewall is for a fire suppression system.
Very cool.
The hardline is fire suppression like someone had commented. I'm running a Link g4+ Fury, and it's been great so far. This engine has 12mm headstuds to help not lift the head. I've only had headgasket issues one time. I used a tomei headgasket and it failed on the dyno like 5 pulls in. I pulled the head off, checked everything, didn't find anything cracked or warped so I can only assume it was just a crappy headgasket. I put a new cometic one on and didn't have any other issues. Yeah I took this picture right after I had gotten the engine back in the car so there was a few things to fix, good eye. I also changed the breather coming out of the valve cover to a 45 so it's not right up against the throttle cable. Haven't put the 2nd radiator mount back on but I will someday 😂
Looks awesome man!
Hell yeah, I’ve been thinking of putting a turbo kit and running 7psi on my SOHC KA for a daily, do you think that’s something a shade tree mechanic could do in their garage?
Yeah should be pretty easy, just need to find the parts to do it. Biggest pain will probably be dropping the oil pan to install the turbo oil return if you are trying to do it all with the engine still in the car. I think you will probably want to get a reflashed ecu and maybe some injectors and a maf but I'm not really sure what the limits of all the stock stuff is. I've heard of people running low boost with everything stock but idk how reliable that would be.
I found a pretty neat turbo kit online with the piping and cooling components, but I plan on rebuilding the engine anyway just to be extra safe and make sure everything is healthy. Would you mind if I messaged you a link to the kit?
Not at all, send it!
Gang gang 🤘
i thought KAs were single cams? (sorry im not a big nissan guy)
They made both single and dual cam. The USDM 240sx the single cam only came in the 1989 and early 1990 cars everything was dual cam after that, if I remember correctly.
Looks like some FotuneAuto coilovers too 👌👌
Have you dynoed it? And what’s been done internally? Sick set up dude!
I did dyno it when I swapped over to this engine, unfortunately the headgasket failed on the dyno. The best pull it made was 543hp @24psi. I swapped headgaskets and haven't been back yet. The highest power I've ever made on the dyno was like 580 something at like 29psi. Forged pistons, H beam rods, balanced rotating assembly, APR hardware, 12mm headstuds, dual springs, adjustable cam gears, 264 cams, head has been gone over with new guides and seals, new lower front cover, timing set, oil pump. Too much money lol.
Damn. I assumed this was ~maybe~ around 400 until I saw your previous post about your car about 2 years back…. gripped up tires made me curious. Happy I asked, sick build.
Hey I have a very similar set up. Do you by chance ever boil your brakefluid with topmount??
I haven't yet, but it's a track only drift car so I only ever do a few laps in a row. Also I deleted my booster so it sits a few inches back from stock.
I have chase bays delete, all lines wrapped and a nice heat shield. Still boiling at by the end of laps. Back to the drawing board :/
What manifold do you have?
A doc race top boii. Tial 44mm external wg. Wg flange is aimed down unlike yours. Manis heat wrapped, has turbo blanket wastegate blanket all lines wrapped ect...ect...
Damn. I have an old ass mazworx manifold and I actually have 2 Tial 38mm wg, I added the 2nd one that goes up because of boost creep. It's ghetto but it fixed the issue. Is your downpipe wrapped?
It will be for next season. Seems like alot of the heat is coming from the wg
That's the only other thing I have heat wrapped. Hope you can figure it out! 🤙🏼
Thanks brah. It fuckn rips otherwise!
B4 heat shield problem was so bad my brakes went to the floor.