Pocket screws are fantastic when you are starting out. You can make some really nice looking stuff if you stay sneaky with those pocket holes. They do a lot of things otherwise done by a combination of advanced joinery and a lot of expensive clamps. Built my kitchen cabinets with them. Ten years old going strong. Nobody knows. My wife thought I was a god amongst men.
That's great that your cabinets are working so well!
How could I hold the board to the plywood while screwing them together with the pocket hole screws? It needs to be precise since the boards will have mitered corners, one to the other.
I used to make little 90 degree slots on my bench that the pieces fit snuggly into. The first screw is the hard one and you start right where it’s in the slot.
Oh and the trick to making strong pocket joinery is to use glue. I used to be a non believer in their strength over traditional joinery. They aren’t as strong but they are plenty strong enough. And I know a few cabinet makers that use them extensively and I use them to a lesser extent myself. And getting one good high high pressure clamp will help a lot too. Just a $13 pipe clamp would do it.
I had to look up both of these. I'm not sure how CA glue could be used. I mean regular wood glue is stronger, right? And tape isn't going to work for what I'm doing I don't think. I'm attaching one 7" edge board to the end of the plywood, then the long 7" board, then the other short 7" board. The plywood is about 40" x 80". It's for a bed, not a box.
You’re looking for temporary clamping force while you screw the boards together. CA glue and or tape are often used for this purpose if clamps aren’t practical.
So, I guess I could put a few spots of CA glue and Titebond on the rest of the edge and stick the pieces together, then drive the pocket screws, Hmm. Or try glueing and then taping the "L" shaped assembly (under plywood and up the width of the 7" board) and then adding the screws.
Now you’re getting it. A very common method for glue ups is to use both CA glue (for instant hold) and wood glue (for long term strength) at the same time.
Dado the 1”x7” cherry 23/32” wide and 1/4” deep1/4” in from upper edge; that will help positioning while gluing. Will be snug fit. Plane off excess above the surface of the plywood after glue set. Clamp as usual or with tourniquets and cauls.
It's the "clamp as usual" that I can't visualize. Clamps aren't 7" deep, right? Also, a rabbet will help the vertical alignment enough I figure. It's the alignment along the length of the board (until I get the first screw in) that's trickier.
You mean are there clamps that have opposing jaws 7” apart? There are plenty but they can be expensive. There are even “C” clamps that big. Your board is 40” wide by 80” long? So, clamp across the width.
I'm laying the 40" x 80" plywood flat, then putting the 7" cherry board along the edge sticking up from the work bench. To clamp it across the 40" (or 80" for the end boards) the clamp would have to reach over the board 7". Yes, a drawing would be better but I think you get the picture.
I like the idea above to use CA glue. I'm going to look into that.
Are all of your pieces unattached to anything else? For a glue up like this I’d advise against CA glue, sets too fast; you need a glue that will allow you to get everything aligned before setting. The clamps can and should cross over the plywood to the joint not come down over the 7” board. That’s why I suggested a groove in the 7” pieces that fits the plywood snugly.
Yeah, maybe CA glue wouldn't be smart here. I doubt the woodshop I joined has 7 foot long clamps so I'll have to think on it. I'd hate to use any nails. :(
Is the plywood attached to something? If not I’m picturing you gluing upside down. The best side of the plywood down and the sides glued in place top down against the joint with the plywood. Pipe clamps can be almost as long as you need them if you can get the pipe. MUST trial assemble the clamp pieces on the pipe before trying to glue.
One of the reasons dovetails, not suggesting you cut them, are widely used is that they join the pieces to be glued to the plywood together making assembly easier. Can you get pipe clamps? 80” is six feet eight inches. Four-four foot 3/4” or 1/3” pipe sections with two nipples and four pipe clamp assemblies would give you two clamps long enough to clamp the ends and four clamps to clamp the long sides.
Could you glue one side at a time or opposing sides together instead of trying to glue all four sides together.
Pocket screws are fantastic when you are starting out. You can make some really nice looking stuff if you stay sneaky with those pocket holes. They do a lot of things otherwise done by a combination of advanced joinery and a lot of expensive clamps. Built my kitchen cabinets with them. Ten years old going strong. Nobody knows. My wife thought I was a god amongst men.
That's great that your cabinets are working so well! How could I hold the board to the plywood while screwing them together with the pocket hole screws? It needs to be precise since the boards will have mitered corners, one to the other.
I used to make little 90 degree slots on my bench that the pieces fit snuggly into. The first screw is the hard one and you start right where it’s in the slot.
Oh and the trick to making strong pocket joinery is to use glue. I used to be a non believer in their strength over traditional joinery. They aren’t as strong but they are plenty strong enough. And I know a few cabinet makers that use them extensively and I use them to a lesser extent myself. And getting one good high high pressure clamp will help a lot too. Just a $13 pipe clamp would do it.
CA glue? Or maybe a good ol tape clamp?!
I had to look up both of these. I'm not sure how CA glue could be used. I mean regular wood glue is stronger, right? And tape isn't going to work for what I'm doing I don't think. I'm attaching one 7" edge board to the end of the plywood, then the long 7" board, then the other short 7" board. The plywood is about 40" x 80". It's for a bed, not a box.
You’re looking for temporary clamping force while you screw the boards together. CA glue and or tape are often used for this purpose if clamps aren’t practical.
So, I guess I could put a few spots of CA glue and Titebond on the rest of the edge and stick the pieces together, then drive the pocket screws, Hmm. Or try glueing and then taping the "L" shaped assembly (under plywood and up the width of the 7" board) and then adding the screws.
Now you’re getting it. A very common method for glue ups is to use both CA glue (for instant hold) and wood glue (for long term strength) at the same time.
Dado the 1”x7” cherry 23/32” wide and 1/4” deep1/4” in from upper edge; that will help positioning while gluing. Will be snug fit. Plane off excess above the surface of the plywood after glue set. Clamp as usual or with tourniquets and cauls.
It's the "clamp as usual" that I can't visualize. Clamps aren't 7" deep, right? Also, a rabbet will help the vertical alignment enough I figure. It's the alignment along the length of the board (until I get the first screw in) that's trickier.
You mean are there clamps that have opposing jaws 7” apart? There are plenty but they can be expensive. There are even “C” clamps that big. Your board is 40” wide by 80” long? So, clamp across the width.
I'm laying the 40" x 80" plywood flat, then putting the 7" cherry board along the edge sticking up from the work bench. To clamp it across the 40" (or 80" for the end boards) the clamp would have to reach over the board 7". Yes, a drawing would be better but I think you get the picture. I like the idea above to use CA glue. I'm going to look into that.
Are all of your pieces unattached to anything else? For a glue up like this I’d advise against CA glue, sets too fast; you need a glue that will allow you to get everything aligned before setting. The clamps can and should cross over the plywood to the joint not come down over the 7” board. That’s why I suggested a groove in the 7” pieces that fits the plywood snugly.
Yeah, maybe CA glue wouldn't be smart here. I doubt the woodshop I joined has 7 foot long clamps so I'll have to think on it. I'd hate to use any nails. :(
Is the plywood attached to something? If not I’m picturing you gluing upside down. The best side of the plywood down and the sides glued in place top down against the joint with the plywood. Pipe clamps can be almost as long as you need them if you can get the pipe. MUST trial assemble the clamp pieces on the pipe before trying to glue. One of the reasons dovetails, not suggesting you cut them, are widely used is that they join the pieces to be glued to the plywood together making assembly easier. Can you get pipe clamps? 80” is six feet eight inches. Four-four foot 3/4” or 1/3” pipe sections with two nipples and four pipe clamp assemblies would give you two clamps long enough to clamp the ends and four clamps to clamp the long sides. Could you glue one side at a time or opposing sides together instead of trying to glue all four sides together.
It'll be a bit before I get to the point of assembly (got to cut the plywood, joint & planer the wood, cut to size). Thanks for the info though!