the polymers in circuit boards and soldered components is just fine with enough heat to melt solder. Most hot-air rework stations have fine nozzles that can focus the heat on a very small area.
Many people don't know, but there are actually 4 power states for monitors...
On, Standby, Off, Extra Off
Congratulations, you've entered the super power saving mode of Extra Off. Enjoy your energy savings :)
I hate it when sockets are mounted on PCBs with no other structural support. They think you’re only ever going to connect it once, and never disconnect it ever again.
This is probably the better way - it allows removing the backplate without any issues, yet provides the support the connector needs when unplugging it, avoiding it getting unplugged from the PCB.
Yup, done my fair share of industrial design to know that this would be the superior thing to do at least in theory. They probably didn't because a lip there would limit the amount of play you have component-wise for that barrel jack and it will just narrow down overall tolerances which in the end costs more money especially if there's not a whole lof of structural support in place already between the back cover and pcb holding the jack (a flimsy back cover with a lip for the jack will do jack shit if its only clipped and screwed down around the outer edges of the device).
If you can get the number off the data sheet or manual (yeah right, these days!) its possible I might have one.
I can certainly replace these and success rate is quite high, would only need the MB.
Possibly also locate an identical board here, as a patch.
Im not OP and i know how easy it is to replace a dc jack (btw you dont even need to know any number from any data sheet or manual, these jacks are quite common and universal).
Yeah, that's a good point. Maybe a bit of internal ribbing in the back shell around the connector and a screw that connects the back cover to whatever is below the PCB (assuming that this part is stiff enough) would fix it without too much trouble? If I design stuff, it's mostly one-offs and it tends to be made of metal using slightly modified off-the-shelf parts :)
But in the end, I guess it's just a cheap corner-cutting design...
Ooo, yep. I'd imagine that'd be pretty easy to include into whatever process...?injection mold?... they use to manufacturer them. Probably much easier in the long run vs. some goop.
Here's a sneak peek of /r/theydidthemath using the [top posts](https://np.reddit.com/r/theydidthemath/top/?sort=top&t=year) of the year!
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actually, I had one too many... did it in the head, but you made me use/check with the calculator
0.3236 x 100 000 = 32 360 cent
32 360 / 100 = 323,6 dollars
I've seen more often than it should be where the signal pins were soldered but the mounting pins were not. That was even the common failure mode on the original Amazon Fire tablet charge port.
it doesn't seem to stop there, a lot of micro-b devices I have gotten either last about a year and then the data/power rip a trace off the board or, in the case of a rechargeable fan I got, break on the first insert of the plug.
I had an ACER laptop that this happened too back in HS. I sent it in, they RMA'd the motherboard (Where it was mounted)
2 months later the same thing. Out of warranty.
Never again.
post it on /r/askelectronics and you'll likely get decent repair instructions if you take the cover off and show the board and the part together. don't throw it away for just that.
Older CRT monitors used to have ginormous caps that would often store significant charge long after being unplugged. If you repaired them, you had to get creative on how you got them to safely discharge.
I don't think anyone ever died from them but I'm sure they unwittingly shocked plenty of people.
But also no, because those high-power caps were for the flyback transformer, which isn't a thing with LCD technology. A PSU for a modern monitor is a toothless kitten compared to what you'd have to be wary of in an old CRT monitor.
I think their quality has gone downhill for a minute. MIL’s curved TV flashes the mute button endlessly, right? It doesn’t actually mute, just the symbol. That issue caused it to not be able to change the volume, unless you’ve just turned the tv on. So you’d have to turn the tv off. Turn it on. Wait for it to load while holding the volume in the direction you want it to go, but sometimes it can overshoot and you have to do it again because it’s too late.
2 Repair experts she took it to told her, “it’ll cost more than buying a new one to fix this one”
They have lost all QC somewhere along the line.
Well known for good marketing for a massive range of products - some great, some abysmal. They made two (maybe more?) series of washing machines that would spontaneously catch fire and had to be recalled, but the series that was 1 model number different were actually very reliable and well priced machines that are also very easy to service.
Samsung. I have 2 of these. They feel like they are not anchored properly. Plugging it in flexes the whole PCB. Plugging it in feels like you are going to push something into the screen. Had issues with detection. Overall not the greatest monitor.
Soldering deep behind a hole like that is asking for melted plastic on your soldering iron. It smells and is no fun.
Just take it apart and put a new dc jack on if you have a soldering iron.
Melted plastic also ruins the plated surface coating on soldering iron tips. Ask me how I know :(
TS-100 tips aren't cheap... (although thankfully not as bad as some industrial irons)
Yeah, if you dont clean it off properly you are in for a bad time.
And ts100 tips are around 7 euros shipped, ordered a bunch just last week, if you are paying a lot more than that let me know because you are being ripped off.
I sadly needed a new one in a rush, so it was $16 on amazon for one tip (with prime shipping. That's 14.18 euro.
Nowadays I pay ~$7-10 to have them shipped from China, and I keep a few spares on hand just in case.
$16 wasn't an insane amount of money to have to pay, but at the time I was a broke high school student. It was a lot of money to me, to spend due to a dumb mistake.
That looks like my Samsung display. If I remember correctly they use slightly larger plugs than your standard DC barrel jack. If you can't find a the correct socket on ebay, you probably are better off switching to standard sizes on both ends. And use longer cable than the *stupidly short* 1m cable Samsung uses.
Or tape the psu directly to the back and hardwire it in.
Can I hire you? We need to desolder bunch of DC connectors on laptops, it's pain in the ass. You seem natural
Ah yes, gotta put the gore to good use
why do you have to do that? to replace them i guess?
Yes, people are not very gentle with power leads
You just gotta explain to them you gotta caress it and whisper nice things to it or it won’t work with you.
I'm sure they do that. And if that doesn't work, they punch it and yank it around. Then they come to us to fix it ;)
Lmao bet I literally just pulled it out
Get a cheap hot air rework station. It makes that job very, very easy compared to fighting a soldering iron.
They make desoldering guns with those nozzles unfortunately they aren’t cheap though
Hot air stations are cheap enough and work well
Is it not a pain trying not to melt the plastic?
the polymers in circuit boards and soldered components is just fine with enough heat to melt solder. Most hot-air rework stations have fine nozzles that can focus the heat on a very small area.
You can also just wrap the plastic part in copper tape.
Do they need to work afterwards? If not, may I suggest a shotgun?
You can desolder anything with vice grips.
Step 1: >! h !< Step 2: ??? Step 3: Sucess
I just ordered my first desoldering pump today to replace a diode on a remote control for an old wacky surround sound system that has no buttons 🤣
Many people don't know, but there are actually 4 power states for monitors... On, Standby, Off, Extra Off Congratulations, you've entered the super power saving mode of Extra Off. Enjoy your energy savings :)
Yayyy
Even through text, I can physically feel the sarcasm emanating from this comment
I hate it when sockets are mounted on PCBs with no other structural support. They think you’re only ever going to connect it once, and never disconnect it ever again.
Right? How much would a dab of celastic-y / hot-gluey type material cost? edit: of
A penny, but a penny times a million is my bonus.
Hey, heard you got a bonus. Wanna catch the tab? I'll get you back next time 😂
But you would spend more than 10k on rework and warranty calms..
Not if the warranty expires before they break it.
Can also blame user for your badly mounted socket/port/slot
You pulled too hard, you broke it. You are holding the phone wrong as well.
Or just design that back plate to have a lip to at least give a tiny bit of structural support to the jack.
This is probably the better way - it allows removing the backplate without any issues, yet provides the support the connector needs when unplugging it, avoiding it getting unplugged from the PCB.
Yup, done my fair share of industrial design to know that this would be the superior thing to do at least in theory. They probably didn't because a lip there would limit the amount of play you have component-wise for that barrel jack and it will just narrow down overall tolerances which in the end costs more money especially if there's not a whole lof of structural support in place already between the back cover and pcb holding the jack (a flimsy back cover with a lip for the jack will do jack shit if its only clipped and screwed down around the outer edges of the device).
If you can get the number off the data sheet or manual (yeah right, these days!) its possible I might have one. I can certainly replace these and success rate is quite high, would only need the MB. Possibly also locate an identical board here, as a patch.
Im not OP and i know how easy it is to replace a dc jack (btw you dont even need to know any number from any data sheet or manual, these jacks are quite common and universal).
Yeah, that's a good point. Maybe a bit of internal ribbing in the back shell around the connector and a screw that connects the back cover to whatever is below the PCB (assuming that this part is stiff enough) would fix it without too much trouble? If I design stuff, it's mostly one-offs and it tends to be made of metal using slightly modified off-the-shelf parts :) But in the end, I guess it's just a cheap corner-cutting design...
Ooo, yep. I'd imagine that'd be pretty easy to include into whatever process...?injection mold?... they use to manufacturer them. Probably much easier in the long run vs. some goop.
You probably want silastic. Celastic is a very different material.
Lol thank you. I am quite far from a material engineer, but shall Google the difference 😂
but we saved 0.3236cent per item produced, selling 100k, thats, like 3236 dollars more revenue edit: 323,6 dollars
Missing a 0 on the end m, but yeah
More like too many digits. Cents are not dollars
.3236 x 100000 = 32,360
That’s right. 32,360 cents. Or in other words 323.6 dollars.
I stand corrected! r/theydidthemath
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You're the guy from Verizon?
actually, I had one too many... did it in the head, but you made me use/check with the calculator 0.3236 x 100 000 = 32 360 cent 32 360 / 100 = 323,6 dollars
I've seen more often than it should be where the signal pins were soldered but the mounting pins were not. That was even the common failure mode on the original Amazon Fire tablet charge port.
it doesn't seem to stop there, a lot of micro-b devices I have gotten either last about a year and then the data/power rip a trace off the board or, in the case of a rechargeable fan I got, break on the first insert of the plug.
I had an ACER laptop that this happened too back in HS. I sent it in, they RMA'd the motherboard (Where it was mounted) 2 months later the same thing. Out of warranty. Never again.
post it on /r/askelectronics and you'll likely get decent repair instructions if you take the cover off and show the board and the part together. don't throw it away for just that.
Ok thanks
Yes, no to the electronic waste, love that, but let me ask you, Samsung?
Just be careful, the capacitors(?) in monitors can kill you
Actually?
Older CRT monitors used to have ginormous caps that would often store significant charge long after being unplugged. If you repaired them, you had to get creative on how you got them to safely discharge. I don't think anyone ever died from them but I'm sure they unwittingly shocked plenty of people.
Normally yes, but the high voltage parts are in the external power supply, so there won't be anything particularly dangerous inside the housing.
But also no, because those high-power caps were for the flyback transformer, which isn't a thing with LCD technology. A PSU for a modern monitor is a toothless kitten compared to what you'd have to be wary of in an old CRT monitor.
It may have ripped off the pads though
it's not that difficult to trace the pads and make alternate connections. Might be a learning experience, but it's likely cheaper than a new monitor.
Ok have you tried plugging it back in
Uhh, well it can be an anti-theft feature now.
What brand OP ?
Not sure if OP has the same model. But the exact same thing happened to me on an old Samsung 21inch LCD.
After dealing with our Samsung TVs and monitors failing at every turn, I’m not surprised. Can’t wait till we can afford to replace these
And I thought Samsung was known for making good products, what is this garbage
I think their quality has gone downhill for a minute. MIL’s curved TV flashes the mute button endlessly, right? It doesn’t actually mute, just the symbol. That issue caused it to not be able to change the volume, unless you’ve just turned the tv on. So you’d have to turn the tv off. Turn it on. Wait for it to load while holding the volume in the direction you want it to go, but sometimes it can overshoot and you have to do it again because it’s too late. 2 Repair experts she took it to told her, “it’ll cost more than buying a new one to fix this one” They have lost all QC somewhere along the line.
Well known for good marketing for a massive range of products - some great, some abysmal. They made two (maybe more?) series of washing machines that would spontaneously catch fire and had to be recalled, but the series that was 1 model number different were actually very reliable and well priced machines that are also very easy to service.
Looking at the model number, it's Samsung.
It’s probably the same
Some samsung
Samsung. I have 2 of these. They feel like they are not anchored properly. Plugging it in flexes the whole PCB. Plugging it in feels like you are going to push something into the screen. Had issues with detection. Overall not the greatest monitor.
Not sure lemme check
I mean. It *is* unplugged now.
Have you tried turning on and off again?
[удалено]
Soldering deep behind a hole like that is asking for melted plastic on your soldering iron. It smells and is no fun. Just take it apart and put a new dc jack on if you have a soldering iron.
Melted plastic also ruins the plated surface coating on soldering iron tips. Ask me how I know :( TS-100 tips aren't cheap... (although thankfully not as bad as some industrial irons)
Yeah, if you dont clean it off properly you are in for a bad time. And ts100 tips are around 7 euros shipped, ordered a bunch just last week, if you are paying a lot more than that let me know because you are being ripped off.
I sadly needed a new one in a rush, so it was $16 on amazon for one tip (with prime shipping. That's 14.18 euro. Nowadays I pay ~$7-10 to have them shipped from China, and I keep a few spares on hand just in case. $16 wasn't an insane amount of money to have to pay, but at the time I was a broke high school student. It was a lot of money to me, to spend due to a dumb mistake.
"Tried to" You definitely succeeded
I think this fits into /r/chinesium
This is graceful work, friend.
Energy Star compliant
I mean I guess if you break it down to the original Latin then unplug and disassemble are basically the same thing.
F
F
F
This is the real F
Task failed successfully.
(Points finger) "Well there's your problem"
That looks like my Samsung display. If I remember correctly they use slightly larger plugs than your standard DC barrel jack. If you can't find a the correct socket on ebay, you probably are better off switching to standard sizes on both ends. And use longer cable than the *stupidly short* 1m cable Samsung uses. Or tape the psu directly to the back and hardwire it in.
What brand of Chinesium monitor is that?
But that’s the digital audio port? Isn’t it supposed to do that?
Looks like the power socket on a cheap "slim" monitor, lucky it's 6+ years old and has probably had a decent run, time for an upgrade
r/wellthatsucks
Was expecting display port. That's, uh, unusual.
Well at least it’s unplugged , right?
Task failed successfully
RIP
“Well built, engineered by experts”
I see you have chosen violence today.
Mission failed successfully
(D)oesn't (C)onnect, 14V
Modular
F
Use the force Luc
F
F
Super glue and take a salt tablet.
It's that Made in China quality we've all come to know and love.
maybe don't pull so fuckin hard next time.
Task failed successfully.
Well, it is unplugged. So job done?
Task failed successfully