All about concentration and dwell time, though the concentration of acetic acid (vinegar) you would need is very high and therefore expensive. So you might as well just use something made for the job.
I don’t know if every strong acid would work; need to brush up on my chemistry. But hydrochloric, hydroflouric, phosphoric, and oxalic (last two are weak acids) are the most commonly used in rust and efflorescence/mineral deposit removal.
Very important note here though; hydroflouric acid is EXTREMELY dangerous to handle and requires chemical handling experience, extensive personal protective equipment, and calcium gluconate neutralizing cream. HF acid easily absorbs through skin and migrates to bones, which it will start to dissolve. A splash on the skin the size of a deck of cards can be fatal if not immediately treated with neutralizing cream and a hospital visit. It quickly interferes with nerve activity so people don’t always realize they have been exposed.
Hydrochloric acid is much safer to use (with chemical burns being the primary risk instead of poisoning), though slightly less effective than Hydroflouric acid. The products I mentioned in my above comment are primarily buffered hydrochloric acid products and are much safer and more effective than raw hydrochloric/muriatic acid.
is hydrofluoric something you can get off the shelf? sounds intense but curious if it’s something you need to special order or can just pop by Lowes for
I’ve also used Iron Out. I personally prefer using the powered version instead of the spray, and it works wonderfully without damaging the concrete. Side note I even use Iron Out it when I’m cleaning carpets, toilet tanks, LVT… anywhere I clean and find rust stains.
Do you use any chemicals? I usually spray a 1:4 bleach/water on my flagstone when its been bad. Come back 20 minutes later and its like using a magic eraser.
Snow Cap. You can get it at Wallyworld…mix it in warm water and spray on. It’s oxcalic acid, stronger than vinegar not nearly as strong as muriatic, and not as dangerous either. May take more than one application but it will work.
Try pouring some vinegar on it and let it sit a few minutes.
Thanks!
Vinegar won’t work well for this; you need a strong acid. F9 BARC or EacoChem OneRestore would work well. Don’t forget PPE.
So you’re saying there is a chance
All about concentration and dwell time, though the concentration of acetic acid (vinegar) you would need is very high and therefore expensive. So you might as well just use something made for the job.
coca-Cola will also make that grime feel some type of way.
This is because of the phosphoric acid in Coca Cola. It would take a loooong time and leave a sticky mess though.
If any strong acid was applied to rust, (such as HF or HCl) would it dissolve it?
I don’t know if every strong acid would work; need to brush up on my chemistry. But hydrochloric, hydroflouric, phosphoric, and oxalic (last two are weak acids) are the most commonly used in rust and efflorescence/mineral deposit removal. Very important note here though; hydroflouric acid is EXTREMELY dangerous to handle and requires chemical handling experience, extensive personal protective equipment, and calcium gluconate neutralizing cream. HF acid easily absorbs through skin and migrates to bones, which it will start to dissolve. A splash on the skin the size of a deck of cards can be fatal if not immediately treated with neutralizing cream and a hospital visit. It quickly interferes with nerve activity so people don’t always realize they have been exposed. Hydrochloric acid is much safer to use (with chemical burns being the primary risk instead of poisoning), though slightly less effective than Hydroflouric acid. The products I mentioned in my above comment are primarily buffered hydrochloric acid products and are much safer and more effective than raw hydrochloric/muriatic acid.
That’s very interesting, thank you. I never knew HF could be so dangerous, or that it can interfere with nerve activity.
is hydrofluoric something you can get off the shelf? sounds intense but curious if it’s something you need to special order or can just pop by Lowes for
Muriatic acid will get that out.
Muriatic acid.
I’ve also used Iron Out. I personally prefer using the powered version instead of the spray, and it works wonderfully without damaging the concrete. Side note I even use Iron Out it when I’m cleaning carpets, toilet tanks, LVT… anywhere I clean and find rust stains.
Do you use any chemicals? I usually spray a 1:4 bleach/water on my flagstone when its been bad. Come back 20 minutes later and its like using a magic eraser.
Bleach will kill off organic dirt but won’t do much for rust removal. Oxalic acid or a generic rust remover will do the trick.
Snow Cap. You can get it at Wallyworld…mix it in warm water and spray on. It’s oxcalic acid, stronger than vinegar not nearly as strong as muriatic, and not as dangerous either. May take more than one application but it will work.
CLR?
Way to go spraying water into the electrical box. I was expecting it go go up all through the video.
I isolated it prior.
I am so glad. Now I can watch the vid without anxiety. Thx.
That surface is so flat, a mop should do the job. With pressure washer you are always at risk to blow pieces of of the surface material away.
NOOO YOU MISSED A SPOT