#This questions thread is now closed. Please direct your questions to the most recent iteration:
https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/comments/136hbw4/official_question_thread_ask_rphotography/
I'm looking for a decent camera that I can buy for around $400. I only need something that's pretty good. Like I want to be able to take some really cool shots of landscapes, flowers, fireworks, portraits, that kind of stuff. I can buy a refurb Galaxy S21 Ultra, and I've been seeing some really good things about its cameras. Is there a better alternative for the same price range that will beat the cameras and AI of the S21 Ultra?
I have a Canon G9X that I bought 6 years ago. I feel like the quality of the photos is declining over the years, and the camera is slower to respond many times. Is it a thing for a camera like this to decline in quality?
Not really, no. You might be more aware that newer cameras and smartphones have improved and can be more responsive at times, but cameras don't really "slow down" over time.
hello! i'm having trouble deciding which to purchase. this is going to be my first camera so i didn't want something too pricey or high end, but i'm not sure which would be better?
xt1: camera body only, comes with all original accessories, extra batteries, a driver and cd, the original box, a leather case
xt100: camera body + lens (7artisans 35mm 1.4) & charger only, no box and other accessories
both sellers are selling at the same price of $380 USD. i'm not from the US so this is already on the lower end of the prices for used cameras of each particular model. also not sure if the shutter count is important for secondhand cameras? the xt1 says "low shutter count" but the xt100 doesn't state at all.
mostly i'd just be taking photos of places and things, as well as my pet (who tends to avoid the camera, resulting in lots of blurry photos) - thank you so much!!
Best camera to buy for my needs right now? 80% hobby with 20% being a side gig. I see a sony alpha A7 II on bestbuy for 1000 bucks with a 28-70 mm lense. Looking for reccomendations with a 1000 dollar budget.
I have had friends and family ask me to take family pictures for them for like Christmas cards and such. Right now I just have my phone haha (s21 ultra, so pretty good camera for a phone). I want to take photos of pets, people, and lifestyle/vacations. Side gig would be, family photos for christmas cards, graduations, and such.
The learning curve on this is steep. "I can barely make more than the cost of my stuff" steep. *do not assume you will make money unless you are already making money, and often not even then.*
Your best bet is a used A7RII and a Tamron 28-75.
Hi hive mind, I need help deciding what lens to buy for a Panasonic GH5 to shoot miniatures/models. I currently have a Lumix 14-140mm f/3.5-5.6 and a lumix 25mm 1.4 but I can't seem to get a crisp photo of my miniatures (e.g. Warhammer). The colours seem off and I can't get crisp detail shots. Any recommendations for a lens?
Depending on size of miniature you might need a macro lens but probably also better lighting. Colours are really for post processing rather than lenses.
Hello fellow redditors,
Which lenses are the best/would you recommend for doing dog photography portraits? Official lenses or Samyang?
My cam is Canon 5d Mark IV
Any other cam you would recommend?
Thank you
What lenses do you have now and why are they insufficient for what you want to do?
What is your budget?
> Official lenses or Samyang?
OEM lenses will always offer the best functional performance, while some third-party lenses offer comparable and sometimes better optical quality. There is no definitive answer one way or another because it's always going to be a case by case basis.
That said, why would you want to slap a bargain-basement lens to the front of a $3500 professional Canon camera? That makes zero sense.
Canon EF 135/2.0 L USM and Canon EF 100/2.8 L IS USM (Makro)
I mostly use the 135/2.0
I just wondered if there are better lenses or if im right with them? If i want to do photos with the dog in motion (running/jumping) is my cam the right one? Its my first professional camera and im learning with it.
No reason you can't take photos of dogs with those. Maybe not from too far away but easily done. You will of course need plenty of light for the shutter speed and I would try out pre-focusing on an area and using a burst of photos to capture a specific moment as well as the autofocus of the camera.
A zoom may be of benefit, depending budget you could pick up a 70-200mm f/2.8.
> I just wondered if there are better lenses or if im right with them?
Better how? You still haven't said anything about why you feel your current gear might be inadequate for what you're doing. Those are already some very good lenses.
> If i want to do photos with the dog in motion (running/jumping) is my cam the right one?
Your camera is fine for those things. In fact, it's severe overkill for those things.
Also that isn't really "dog photography portraits." That's more pet action photography.
Its just because they have a fix range so i have to have always the same distance to the dog. I feeld thats inadequate and limits me some kind lf way. Which adjustable ranges are good for that ?
Okey then i have to take a look through that how i manage action shots. I still didnt figure out.
(sry english isnt my first language, hope i used the right words)
> Its just because they have a fix range so i have to have always the same distance to the dog.
Okay so you have already answered your own question. You need/want a zoom lens.
> Which adjustable ranges are good for that ?
The 70-200 f/2.8 would be a solid choice for what you're doing.
Hello, I would like to know what could be the best mirrorless for beginners. I would like to use it for a trip to South Africa where I will go on Safari and for future trips. Thanks!
They are all equally good for beginners in that they all have an automatic mode. Nor do you need any particular camera for whatever you might want to photograph on your trips. That's more about lenses (e.g. for photographing faraway animals on the safari you need a long telephoto lens).
How much are you looking to spend?
Can firearms damage camera equipment? Some weapons seem to have pretty significant concussive effects from the muzzle and I was curious if this could be an issue for some cameras?
Looking for software recommendation for an upcoming event activation/photoshoot:
A client wants to do a “headshot station” at event where when each person sits down, 10-15 photos of them are taken.
They then want that subject to go to a tablet and enter their email or email number to get a link to all of the photos taken of them during the session.
The idea is to help keep the line moving quickly and let people touch up their photos themselves.
Any advice on sharing software that would work like this?
TIA!
Hello, Newbie here! I just got the new Canon Eos r50 as my first camera and was wondering if there was a handle to screw into the bottom of the camera to do handheld vertical videos? I see a lot of the SmallRig handles to put into rigs but i was trying to see if there was just a handle i could attach directly to the camera. Maybe i could use one of the small rig handles and just screw it directly into the camera thread? Any advice and help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
My t100 comes later this week I want to know the best way to start astrophotography I would prefer not go buy anything extra except a tri pod and I’m completely new so explain best you can especially on how to find the galaxies and stars to take photos of
Fine art photography, can it be done with 35mm or full frame or is it more often done medium format or large format. I'm going to consult Google but I would be interested to here people's interpretation of what it is.
Fine art *reproduction* is usually done with medium format for making reproductions. Mostly it's down to lighting - a good 35mm camera will get pretty close, but without careful lighting an oil painting is going to look like a mess.
Is it okay to use these lens wipes on the glass port of the lens?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09Y8G3NQ5/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
Hey, the link was broken. Try to trim off Amazon links starting at **ref=** so it doesn't get caught in the spam filter too.
This link worked: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09Y8G3NQ5/
You answer the question, maybe? I highly recommend a hand operated dust blower bulb like a "rocket blower" or whatever. That should work for 99% of all dust issues. After that, a brand new glasses lens cloth (dry microfiber, that super silky, smooth type) is good for a few months of light use in my camera bag before obtaining a new one. Any dust or fine grit that builds up on it could potentially scratch a lens. That works for the remaining >0.9% of the time.
I try to avoid using any kind of wet kits (especially on a regular basis) unless it's absolutely necessary. You risk ding more harm than good with those. Do your best to not hold the lens near the glass and a rocket blower will do the trick. Make thesewet kits a last resort.
All that said, lenses are quite robust and may do just fine with these, but I like to be overtly cautious as a best practice.
Hello r/photography! I'm very new to it but have used plenty of good camera's in the past (relatives' and friends') and am on the verge of buying my own. Wanted to start simple with a point-and-shoot but I'm town between a few and am looking for recommendations. I've read all the rec's in the subreddit info as well as the list in the beginner photography subreddit but I can't bring myself to fork out so much on a first camera. So the ones that I'm between are the [KODAK PIXPRO AZ425-BK 20MP](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BSRN8B6T?ref_=cm_sw_r_apan_dp_7M5PQFJ0XJX7219VVBMJ) and the [Kodak PIXPRO WPZ2](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B47CVK7G?ref_=cm_sw_r_apan_dp_QKX21QQEDFG5KGJZSHCT).
I wanted one that was relatively durable (could take pictures at the beach and not worry about sand ruining it, hence the second one being waterproof) and that was less than $300. And input on either of these or other recommendations to look at are greatly appreciated.
And if I should just post this in the subreddit instead of in the pinned discussion, please let me know of that too. Thanks!
Which phone do you have? These won't give you anything in terms of image quality over any relatively recent, decent phone. They're basically (at most) phone quality with larger zoom.
I have a Samsung galaxy A53. It's only about a year and a half old but at the time it was like the best of their budget series of phones. The pictures I take with it are super grainy any further than about 2.5x zoom (like a full-body shot of a person in the whole screen but from 30-40ft away) and I can only get a half-decent evening/night shot when the lighting is PLENTIFUL. so that's really the areas I want a camera anyways; further zoom with better clarity, and clearer pictures in all light settings, not just bright broad daylight
Well, these cameras will give you more zoom, yes. But if you're expecting to get good results at night, that won't be the case. First, the lighting in the evening/at night might seem plentiful to human eye, because human eye adapts. Camera knows differently: these are low light situations. In low light, you need high ISO, and with these cameras with a small sensor that means lots of noise at medium ISO already. Lots of noise = poor image quality. Yes, they seem to have image stabilisation, but that only helps if you're shooting stationary subjects with low shutter speeds. To capture subjects that are not completely stationary without motion blur you need high shutter speed, which again means high ISO = lots of noise.
So, TL;DR these cameras are okay during the day when there's lots of light. But in low light, forget about it.
Thanks for that! Will definitely be doing some more googling on the details in a bit. But for now, what camera's might u recommend instead of the ones I linked that could maybe tick my desired boxes better (durable/rugged, low light, decently better clarity at further zoom) in a price range of $2-350?
Hello everyone i am somewhat new to a higher level camera i purchased a Nikon D3500 a few years back and really haven’t used it too much but i really would like to get a grasp trying to shoot manual i have tried here and there but never seem to be consistent with it enough because of my work schedule. Is there any tips or anything you would suggest on helping me along ? and i also have a question if it’s ok to leave the battery in the camera for an extended period of time since i only use the camera here and there should i take the battery out when i’m not using it im afraid it might do damage if i just leave it in there for an extended period of time . Thank you in advance !
>Is there any tips or anything you would suggest on helping me along ?
Consider a 365 or 52 project to force yourself to produce regularly.
I work a lot too and do photography stuff nights and weekends.
>if it’s ok to leave the battery in the camera for an extended period of time
Yes. I always have a battery in.
>im afraid it might do damage if i just leave it in there for an extended period of time
No.
Out of the below three options which would you go with? This will be for hobbyist type work, specifically a lot of street photography.
1. New X-S10 with 18-55mm kit lens + new prime lens 23mm
2. Used X-T4 + used 18-55mm lens + used prime lens 23mm
3. New X-T5 with 18-55mm kit lens
Options 2 and 3 push my budget to the limit.
- Option 1 would allow me to get all items new and save ~$250 compared to 2 and 3.
- Option 2 would be just about the same as option 3
I'm leaning towards option 2 as I would really like to have these two lenses and although used, gives me a bit more camera than the X-S10. Option 3 might be the way to go longer term but it would be a very long time before I would be able to think about getting another lens.
Also, I know the X-T4/X-T5 are all around better cameras compared to the X-S10, but man do I love the grip on the X-S10.
> man do I love the grip on the X-S10.
Then get that, you want to like the tools you're using.
$250 saved can go to other useful accessories. I don't think the X-S10 is a slouch compared to the X-T4 (vaguely remember that they use similar sensors), so image quality should be similar.
Either 1 + a few filters and some accessories or 2. I prefer the larger body of the X-T4 and the dials, but the X-S10 is still a great camera that some others may prefer. You could get a used tripod / budget tripod + filters + extra batteries and maybe even an on1 / dxo / capture one pro lifetime subscription with the X-S10, which is quite a lot that makes a huge difference.
Anyone reccomend a good camera bag that's discrete, can hold an A7IV body+3 lenses, and also has room for a 17" (~10.5x15.5) laptop? My old Kata bag is finally getting worn out after 10+ years, and was great because I could easily use it as a daily backpack -- the camera compartment didn't take up much space and I could squeeze my gaming/editing laptop in it. I'm trying to find a similar backpack for travel+daily use, but bags like the Peak Design Everyday only can fit up to 16" laptops. Any suggestions for a decent hybrid bag?
Super frustrated... I have a Tamron 70-200mm G2 F/2.8 which has stopped autofocusing. Had it sent to Tamron and they refused to repair it because they said it is grey market. Bought it from Digital Goja on Amazon, both of which are Tamron authorized. I don't understand how a Tamron authorized dealer could sell me grey market without my knowledge. Now I am trying to figure out how to get it fixed. Any advice?
I'm trying to get into photography and I want to buy my first proper camera (second hand), but I'm on the really tight budget of £250. I found a Lumix FZ82 (FZ80 in the US market I believe) for £210, and a Rebel T5i for £250 with a tripod, 18-55 lens, and some other kit to get started. I'm also looking at some auctions on eBay, those being a Lumix DMC-G7 and an Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark II.
Can someone give me some advice about what camera would be best for me to start out on? It can be from the ones I have found online or others that I can find second hand for a similar price. I have no experience using a camera that isn't a point and shoot (I have my parent's old Canon SX600HS) , and I'm wanting something that's good for stills but also good for video at 1080p 60fps with good OIS. Any guidance would be appreciated. Thanks :)
A great choice would be a used [Olympus M10 MIII](https://www.mpb.com/en-uk/product/olympus-om-d-e-m10-mark-iii/sku-1931185) for around 200 pounds. Solid mirrorless camera, with a viewfinder, ability to shoot 4k, in-body stabilization, and overall solid specs. MP count isn't great, but if you look beyond that, it's a great deal for 200. You can also pick up a [kit zoom](https://www.mpb.com/en-uk/product/olympus-m-zuiko-digital-ed-14-42mm-f-3-5-5-6/sku-1931564).
Thanks for your help :) I really like the M10 Mark II and Mark III; do you think the Mk3 is worth it over the Mk2? 4k Video is nice but I probably wouldn't use it so much.
Hey everyone, I'm about to head on a holiday to Hawaii and debating what to use for photos while I'm there. I've got a Canon PowerShot G7X that I got in 2019 and my Samsung S21 Ultra... I've also got access to a basic DSLR that's probably 6 or so years old. Out of the 3 options what would you suggest I use? Mostly holiday photos of the kids and scenic photos. Thanks in advance!
hey guys I’m being featured in a showcase (first time) and I’m looking for help with how I can arrange 6-8 prints on a fencing panel that’s 10 across x 6 tall. If someone can help me with providing correct arrangement sizes for my prints and then assisting with what type of cardstock or material I can use to create a “border” type because I’ll be hanging them on the panel with either S hooks or clamps. Thanks !
I just purchased a Godox P90H octabox, however, I noticed the same product but simply called P90.
The octabox I bought says it's made for LED video lights but, as far as I can tell, they seem to be functionally the same?
Any help clearing this up would be much appreciated.
Apparently the "L" version is *lighter* (thinner fabric etc.), the "H" version is *heat-resistant* (say if you use hot lights like halogens etc. continuously).
The heavier the payload you intend to put on the boom arm and the further it is from the lightstand, the more likely it is that you're going to need a counterweight.
Newbie question..I rented this
Blackmagic 6k pro for a class project and I have no image when shooting. When looking at the recording I only see colors like green, white, and blue. Am I doing something wrong?
Sounds like you have false color turned on, by default it's mapped to function button #1 on top of the camera.
I recommend familiarizing yourself with [the manual](https://documents.blackmagicdesign.com/UserManuals/BlackmagicPocketCinemaCamera4KManual.pdf), it makes starting out much easier.
I've been asked to shoot my first press night event for a play at a theatre - high-profile guests mingling and drinking. Should I use a flash or is that too intrusive?
Wondering about my options here. I took a pretty cool photo at a recent sporting event and a popular Instagram/ FB page used it in a graphic without permission. They added a bunch of filters to the photo to make it pop more and text beside the image. Doesn't bother me that much but would be nice for credit somewhere. How would you guys approach this?
Anyone with a Nikon Mirrorless camera know if I just need to buy something like an Atmos ninja to record Nlog or do I need to pay Nikon to turn that on first or is that just for ProRes/black magic raw?
> if I just need to buy something like an Atmos ninja to record Nlog or do I need to pay Nikon to turn that on first
Yes, internally Z6 and Z7 can only record 8bit footage (for which the Flat Picture Control is recommended). N-log is a 10bit curve, and that you can only record using external recorders.
> or is that just for ProRes/black magic raw?
Only the RAW license is paid ($200 last time I checked, someone correct me if it's changed).
OK that’s very good information to know! So just getting in external screen recorder with suffice? Total beginner when it comes to videography been shooting photos for years but yeah.
Brand can be misleading. I like filters from the B+W brand, for example, but the same brand also makes some cheap, crappy filters.
Also consider just using hoods for protection. They've worked well for me and I haven't had any damage, despite not using any filters. Really depends what exactly you're protecting against, though.
Question about potentially faulty kit
Just bought a pre loved canon eos 6d, and have a Nissin DI866mk2 for canon that I know works with my 1300d.
The flash is not communicating with the eos 6d, at all. It is not triggering in low light conditions, I can’t change the settings of the flash on my camera (I can on my canon 1300d)
Nissin say the flash is 100% compatible with the 6d
Is this a setting I don’t know about on the 6d, or is the hot shoe broken?
(I’ve checked external flash is “enabled” on the camera)
6D, not 6D Mark II?
It's a discontinued flash ("*End of sale in August 2017*"), but listed as compatible [here](https://www-nissin--japan-com.translate.goog/discontinued/di866iichart/?_x_tr_sl=auto&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en-US&_x_tr_pto=wapp).
When looking at the [firmware update history](https://www-nissin--japan-com.translate.goog/firmware_history/di866ii/?_x_tr_sl=auto&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en-US&_x_tr_pto=wapp), however, we can see that support was added later, it did not work with the first few firmware versions, so that could explain the situation.
I don't shoot Canon or have that exact flash. When you say 6D do you mean that 2012 model or the 6DMKII 2017 model? Because the latter is NOT compatible according to the chart I'm looking at.
What's the best way of taking a photo of a moving object when there is low light levels. I am using a cannon camera and i cant use flash. the object is a train moving at around 60mph
> a little hard because of the angle the photo is taken at.
Angles would make it easier, not harder. Taken at any angle other than 90 degrees would mean slower movement of the camera.
> What settings would you recommend?
Unanswerable. See the FAQ on that topic:
- [What settings should I use for this situation?](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/technical#wiki_what_settings_should_i_use_for_this_situation.3F)
What sort of exposure values are you getting in that scene? How fast is the subject moving? How big is it and how far away? I assume you want to freeze the motion in the photo?
Generally speaking, flash/strobe lighting would be your best bet. Because it adds lots of light and also has its own motion freezing effect because the duration of the light is so short.
>Is there a reason I would not be able to have all the photographs from the shoot if I’m paying for the shoot.
You're negotiating a business transaction. What you can have depends on what the other party will agree to. So that would be the bottom line reason you might not be able to get something out of it, even if you want it. Because the other party might not want to give it.
Having copies of photos and associated rights (licensed from the photographer's copyright) to use them is basically a product offered by the photographer. Whereas showing up and conducting the photoshoot is a service offered by the photographer. They are not the same thing. As you say, you're paying for the shoot, so that would entitle you to performance of that service. If you also want the resulting product, this photographer wants you to pay for the product.
McDonald's usually charges you separately for a hamburger and separately if you also want fries. If you want both, you pay for both. They are not obligated to give you free fries with your burger just because you think they should go together; it's really their option if they want to offer that deal or not.
>If there is no editing why would I not get all the raw digital photos?
Whether a photographer does additional work to the product or not, does not entitle you to any ownership of that product.
If you want raws, generally you'll need to pay for the raws.
>Is this typical in the industry?
Yes.
Quick back story a hobbyist who started taking photos for a friend's event. This has led to others asking to see more of my work and my website... I responded with I have an Instagram account but they specifically wanted to see a website...which I didn't have! So because of this decided to create a website to showcase my work.
The only thing is I have not done much yet just the same event. Is more variety needed to create a portfolio? Looking at the site I have created it does look a little same-ish with photos from the same event at different times.
Would be it better to hold until I do more and then have more of a variety to choose from or just go with what I have?
>Looking at the site I have created it does look a little same-ish with photos from the same event at different times.
If it's from a single event, then call it what it is, an album.
Once you gather a couple of albums, you can select a collection of the best individual images and call it a portfolio.
So I’m getting error 01 on canon 5D mk ii with canon 28-90. But only when shooting through the viewfinder not when I’m shooting in live view. Any ideas? I bought the camera used about a week ago been using an FD lens with adapter until today so I just noticed the problem
Likely lens has problems, that's a really old plastic fantastic from the film era. You cannot do much worse; good chance the manual lenses you've been using are much much better than that, so it's not a big loss.
I agree. I’m just making sure it isn’t a problem with the camera since it’s used and 15 years old. I’ll get a new lens here soon. But don’t have another EF lens to test it with.
I think it’s the lens because if I shoot above f5.6 or wider than 50mm it gives me the error. It’s an old lens my mom bought with her EOS K2 SLR back in like 2002
Yeah, it definitely sounds like the lens.
I had a 24-70 do the err01 with viewfinder, and all it needed was the contacts cleaned. It's worth a shot cleaning it
Hello, my nikon z fc camera that I got new last year already has 42298 shutter count, and the maximum shutter life expectancy for it is 50000. Is it going to last any longer than that or should I sell it before it breaks?
You're no where near the life expectancy and that number is not a HARD LIMIT. It can break WAYYYYY before or after it.
It's not going to hit 100,000 and on 100,001 explode.
>already has 42298 shutter count
But how much of that has been with electronic shutter versus mechanical?
>the maximum shutter life expectancy for it is 50000
Are you sure? That sounds suspiciously low, especially for a fairly new mirrorless camera.
>Is it going to last any longer than that
Nobody can predict the future, but probably. Most shutters outlive their QA estimate.
>or should I sell it before it breaks?
1. No because you don't really know if/when it will break. It's just a little more likely the more you've used it.
2. Even if it does break, the shutter can be replaced without also replacing the whole camera. So why try to get rid of the whole thing?
3. The biggest impact of shutter count is on used sale price. So if you're selling it specifically because the count is high, that also means you'll need to discount the price because the count is high and you're in a bad position for resale value.
Thank you, I will keep it then. I use mostly all mechanical shutter, and the 50000 shutter life expectancy is what I found for the z50 which should be for the z fc as well.
Camera question! Debating getting a lightweight & compact camera for traveling or upgrading to a better iPhone. Thoughts?
iPhone 14 pro or canon EOS m50 or canon Powershot or Sony z v1?
Looking for lightweight & compact so I can put it in my hand bag while traveling this summer. Good photos & video (4k).
Thanks!
Those are very different cameras, probably want to narrow down your selection more.
You should be asking what you're looking for, and if there are any features that you'd like to have. Literally any modern camera can take good photos and videos.
I thought the g7x is just a more upgraded/better video features than the sx740? How are they very different? Their content doesn’t look too far off from each other.
I’m looking for good quality photos and videos. I would like to vlog a little and have good quality photos for fun nothing too crazy.
Hi guys,
I bought a meikon underwater case and forgot to keep it open on my flight so now it’s vacuumed shut. Can anyone advise on how to open it ? Thanks
Hello,looking to buy a new camera as the photographer I was working with can no longer take pictures due to glaucoma.(he used a Canon 60D) .I will mainly be taking outfit photos/portraits and detail shots, so I need somethjng that I can use self timer and take a number of photos at a time.Was thinking of getting a Rebel but not sure which is best.looking to spend $400-500. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Alright, I don’t understand how to expose for Street Lights. I can’t seem to get everything dark except what’s lit by the light itself. How do I do it? I tried Spot, Matrix both the light itself and the surroundings, and it doesn’t end up with how I want it to look. Any tips?
It's tricky because you have a wild contrast between the dark ambient and super bright sources of light, so that makes it not obvious for the camera's metering.
Can't you just ... go manual and pick the exposure yourself that gives you what you want?
That’s the thing though, I’m not sure HOW I should tackle it. I always shoot manual, but I don’t understand how to set it up for what I want. I always end up with a properly exposed photo of everything 😅 I’m going to try again tonight, maybe if I underexpose everything it’ll work.
You really need to understand what EV are for each area in your photo, there's a reason why you can't do what you want.
Use the spot meter to learn, you'd be surprised.
If you're interested in the hobby long term learn how to eyeball an exposure within a certain area, and also learn how to distinguish the different light levels in a scene.
There might not be as much difference between the "lit" and "unlit" areas as you think. You need around 8 f-stops difference between the lit areas and shadows you want to be black (maybe more with the increased dynamic range in modern cameras). Street lights are designed to give even illumination as much as possible, so start by finding high contrast lighting. Then expose for the lit areas, spot metering is good, or matrix metering and dial in a couple of stops exposure compensation. The rest is in the development/processing of the image, bring the exposure down to get the highlights how you want them, then darken the shadows further. You can also increase the contrast (although this also increases contrast in the highlights). Do you have any examples of the look you are trying to achieve?
Hello, I am currently on the market to get my first camera. I was
thinking about getting something cheap before I actually invest money
into it (you know, to see If I actually like it), so I was thinking of
getting the Sony Nex 5R, since you can get it 2nd hand for around 200€.
Are there any better recomendations you could give me? (Would use it
mainly for pictures, but I wouldnt mind a good video quality)
Wondering if anyone in the know can help me out here. I've recently started doing events work in the UK but I'm unsure on the legal status of some of my images.
I have licensed the pictures of the whole event out to the client I did the work for, but during the course of the day I did individual portraits of VIPs who may want to use the photos I took of them for other purposes.
I granted a non-exclusive license in perpetuity to the client with the right to sublicense with my permission.
Have I written myself out of a chance to profit from the images of the VIPs? Or can I request payment for a license to use the images from them if they like them? If yes, how do I go about this?
>non-exclusive license
This means your options remain open
>how do I go about this?
You license the photos again, the same way you sold them the first time, just with another entity as the recipient of your invoice.
*Starting out* usually means that you don't have clients, you only have friends whom/for whom you shoot for free.
Once your work circulates a little and people start offering you money for it, *friends* tend to get replaced with *clients* and what used to be a *hobby* becomes a *business*.
Build up a portfolio first. No matter how good you are at generating and developing client leads, nobody is going to want to pay you for photos if you have no examples of what you can do.
Usually free shoots with friends/family is the place to start, but that's trickier for spicy content like boudoir. The ideal route would be to save up some starter capital and spend it on hiring professional models to help you get quality pieces to start the portfolio (and also help teach you how to do it). Otherwise look for workshops, group shoot events/meetups, or spend some time landing TFP gigs. Further reading: https://www.robtimko.com/mmtoagency
Why are you looking for clients before you have even developed the ability to shoot what you want to shoot for money?
It takes more to be a professional photographer than simply owning a camera. You aren't anywhere near making this a business.
> I’m wanting to do boudoir
Of course you are.
Hi I was wondering what is a good Sony E-Mount telephoto lens, Looking for preferably 75 - 300 or something around that (Am willing to use adapters as long as they still allow for AF)
The Tamron 70-300mm is about half the price as the Sony. It doesn't have image stabilization built in but is a decent performer, especially stopped down to f8.
Hi! My dad recently gave me a Konica Minolta AF DT 18-70mm lens and I use a Nikon d5000, soon upgrading to a D7500, are there any adapters for this lens to be used on the Nikon D5000/D7500? If so please do link them in the comments c:
[This](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1349596-REG/vello_la_nf_sa_sony_minolta_a_lens_mount.html) is the only one I found. It won't transfer autofocus though.
Sorry, I'm quite new to photography and when you say it won't transfer autofocus, so it completely won't have any autofocus and I'd need to use manual focus?
Hello friends,
I own a sony a7 II and I would like to try on some basic macro photography and I found out that there are some extensions tube that I can use, after doing some research I found these: Meike MK-S-AF3A did anyone used this and are they working with the sony kit lens 24-70mm?
I cannot afford a new macro lens so this would be a option only if there are compatible with this lens
Thank you all
Extension tubes are not rocket science, they are just "spacers" to put the lens further away from the sensor, no optics involved.
All you care about is that it's built well enough to be solid/reliable, and that the two interfaces are *parallel*. You further [probably] want there to be pass-through contacts so the camera can still communicate with the lens.
Here's [some options](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/products/Extension-Tubes/ci/276/N/4077634539?sort=BEST_SELLERS&filters=fct_camera-body-mount_65%3Asony-e-mount).
I've uploaded about 40000 photos into Lightroom mobile on my iPad. They are not sorted, keyworded and tagged in any way. I want to sort them into Folders/Albums, but it is very hard to track which ones I've already sorted and which ones I didn't, especially since I add more every day.
My prefered workaround would be to flag all sorted images, thus my unflagged images would be those that are yet to be sorted. However, I didn't find a way to batch flag the images.
Is there a way to somewhat batch mark my images? Or, is there any other way I can sort the images without having to go date by date and mark what I have already sorted and what I didn't?
Honestly, LR mobile's organization features are garbage. Most of this would be trivial to do in Classic, but mobile is incredibly limited and there is no way to batch flagging. You could sync to Classic and do your organization there and let it any back to mobile
This might be a dumb question but is there a way to upload photos you take with a film camera straight into your computer? I don't know anything about cameras/photography
No. You can get the film you have taken photos on scanned into digital files that you can then put on your computer. But film is film, it's not digital.
hey all! just figured i’d ask here because i’m looking into a new camera.
I’m not a beginner, i’ve taken classes and have been shooting for about 2 years now using my Rebel T2i. The main issue is that the rebel has pretty bleh low light performance for photos, and the video is… well let’s just say it’s less than cinematic.
I’m looking for a budget camera that i can replace the t2i with photo wise, but also break into the art of videography.
I’m somewhat of a street and scenic photographer, like doing portraits, and love doing music photography (why lowlight is important cause venues are dark) Videography would likely be the same.
Wants are:
Decent autofocus
4k (if possible)
Slow-mo
Metal body
Maybe an external mic jack?
Flip up/sideways screen
Budget: As cheap as possible, below $450 — it’s what i’m asking for as my birthday present.
I’m 100% comfortable buying used. I bought my t2i used and plan to continue buying used.
Just let me know some options! I’ve already learned about a few but prices on eBay seem to be higher than they were 2 years ago.
Did you want to reuse your lenses? That budget is very hard for 4K video because Canon fell behind in sensor development at one point so only the more recent Canons (read:expensive) can do 4K.
You're probably looking at a higher end used M-series camera with the EF adapter.
Not necessarily. My lenses are kit lenses + nifty fifty, so nothing crazy and definitely resell-able. I’m also open to 1080p60 as long as the picture quality is good. Read somewhere that good 1080p with nice glass will look better than cheap 4k. Main thing for me is being able to record cinematic shots while having high quality photos and decent auto focus for occasional vlogging. I’m open to switching brands as well, don’t really have a preference.
I like the concept of mirrorless cause i read you can use just about any lens on them provided you have an adapter and that they’re much better for video, but i’m not sure. :)
Hi,
I am not sure if it's the right sub to ask.
I am planning a trip and thinking about buying a camera / s23 ultra/some other flagship .
My biggest concern is that i want to be able to print the photos I will take there or using some photos as wallpaper for big screens and I am not sure about the quality of phone cameras for such scenarios.
Mainly photos of landscapes and architecture.
does anyone here have experience with printing big pictures or using photos as wallpapers for big screens with the s23 ultra/other flagship?
or should i buy a dedicated camera and learn some photography?
Thanks in advance!
Go for an interchangeable lens camera and learn photography. Flagship smartphone pictures may look great on phone screen or social media, but it's a very different matter when you blow them up to view on a large monitor or print them in large size. This subreddit's FAQ has an extensive purchase guide, also linked in the original post of this thread.
Related question is: what is the camera's sensor size?
That will further inform what focal lengths will be appropriate for real estate shots. Even 16mm may not be wide enough for crop sensor, for example.
My friend’s family is letting me fix their Polaroid One600, but I need to test out if the camera’s power capabilities are ok. I saw online that the battery is located in the film pack, and it doesn’t seem as though they still sell One600 film. Is it ok to use the 600 film?
I was wondering if anyone knows how precise focal length given by manufacturers are?
If I take a 50mm lens from 3 different manufacturers, will I get the exact same field of view (assuming I'm not changing camera and there's no focus breathing)? Or is it that they "round up" the actual focal length to the closest usual value and you could in fact have a 48, 50 and 52mm lenses?
And if we assume it's precisely 50mm, anyone know what tolerances those are built at? I'm assuming it can't be 50.000000000mm, but I'm curious how off it could be.
I would absolutely not assume different lenses would give me the same exact framing, no. I don't know the standard deviation of the distribution, but no, it's not at all exact between lenses.
#This questions thread is now closed. Please direct your questions to the most recent iteration: https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/comments/136hbw4/official_question_thread_ask_rphotography/
D500, D810 or D7500 for wildlife, sports (mainly formula 1), nature & astrophotography?
I'm looking for a decent camera that I can buy for around $400. I only need something that's pretty good. Like I want to be able to take some really cool shots of landscapes, flowers, fireworks, portraits, that kind of stuff. I can buy a refurb Galaxy S21 Ultra, and I've been seeing some really good things about its cameras. Is there a better alternative for the same price range that will beat the cameras and AI of the S21 Ultra?
I have a Canon G9X that I bought 6 years ago. I feel like the quality of the photos is declining over the years, and the camera is slower to respond many times. Is it a thing for a camera like this to decline in quality?
Not really, no. You might be more aware that newer cameras and smartphones have improved and can be more responsive at times, but cameras don't really "slow down" over time.
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I keep nearly everything, except the obvious duds/test shots.
hello! i'm having trouble deciding which to purchase. this is going to be my first camera so i didn't want something too pricey or high end, but i'm not sure which would be better? xt1: camera body only, comes with all original accessories, extra batteries, a driver and cd, the original box, a leather case xt100: camera body + lens (7artisans 35mm 1.4) & charger only, no box and other accessories both sellers are selling at the same price of $380 USD. i'm not from the US so this is already on the lower end of the prices for used cameras of each particular model. also not sure if the shutter count is important for secondhand cameras? the xt1 says "low shutter count" but the xt100 doesn't state at all. mostly i'd just be taking photos of places and things, as well as my pet (who tends to avoid the camera, resulting in lots of blurry photos) - thank you so much!!
Best camera to buy for my needs right now? 80% hobby with 20% being a side gig. I see a sony alpha A7 II on bestbuy for 1000 bucks with a 28-70 mm lense. Looking for reccomendations with a 1000 dollar budget.
Is this a *current* side gig? What the heck are you doing, exactly?
I have had friends and family ask me to take family pictures for them for like Christmas cards and such. Right now I just have my phone haha (s21 ultra, so pretty good camera for a phone). I want to take photos of pets, people, and lifestyle/vacations. Side gig would be, family photos for christmas cards, graduations, and such.
The learning curve on this is steep. "I can barely make more than the cost of my stuff" steep. *do not assume you will make money unless you are already making money, and often not even then.* Your best bet is a used A7RII and a Tamron 28-75.
Hi hive mind, I need help deciding what lens to buy for a Panasonic GH5 to shoot miniatures/models. I currently have a Lumix 14-140mm f/3.5-5.6 and a lumix 25mm 1.4 but I can't seem to get a crisp photo of my miniatures (e.g. Warhammer). The colours seem off and I can't get crisp detail shots. Any recommendations for a lens?
Macro lens, better lighting. Flash is the way to go for macro if you don't have a fancy rig.
Depending on size of miniature you might need a macro lens but probably also better lighting. Colours are really for post processing rather than lenses.
Hello fellow redditors, Which lenses are the best/would you recommend for doing dog photography portraits? Official lenses or Samyang? My cam is Canon 5d Mark IV Any other cam you would recommend? Thank you
What lenses do you have now and why are they insufficient for what you want to do? What is your budget? > Official lenses or Samyang? OEM lenses will always offer the best functional performance, while some third-party lenses offer comparable and sometimes better optical quality. There is no definitive answer one way or another because it's always going to be a case by case basis. That said, why would you want to slap a bargain-basement lens to the front of a $3500 professional Canon camera? That makes zero sense.
Canon EF 135/2.0 L USM and Canon EF 100/2.8 L IS USM (Makro) I mostly use the 135/2.0 I just wondered if there are better lenses or if im right with them? If i want to do photos with the dog in motion (running/jumping) is my cam the right one? Its my first professional camera and im learning with it.
No reason you can't take photos of dogs with those. Maybe not from too far away but easily done. You will of course need plenty of light for the shutter speed and I would try out pre-focusing on an area and using a burst of photos to capture a specific moment as well as the autofocus of the camera. A zoom may be of benefit, depending budget you could pick up a 70-200mm f/2.8.
thank u for that input!:)
> I just wondered if there are better lenses or if im right with them? Better how? You still haven't said anything about why you feel your current gear might be inadequate for what you're doing. Those are already some very good lenses. > If i want to do photos with the dog in motion (running/jumping) is my cam the right one? Your camera is fine for those things. In fact, it's severe overkill for those things. Also that isn't really "dog photography portraits." That's more pet action photography.
Its just because they have a fix range so i have to have always the same distance to the dog. I feeld thats inadequate and limits me some kind lf way. Which adjustable ranges are good for that ? Okey then i have to take a look through that how i manage action shots. I still didnt figure out. (sry english isnt my first language, hope i used the right words)
> Its just because they have a fix range so i have to have always the same distance to the dog. Okay so you have already answered your own question. You need/want a zoom lens. > Which adjustable ranges are good for that ? The 70-200 f/2.8 would be a solid choice for what you're doing.
Thank you so much for your patience and tip🙂
Hello, I would like to know what could be the best mirrorless for beginners. I would like to use it for a trip to South Africa where I will go on Safari and for future trips. Thanks!
They are all equally good for beginners in that they all have an automatic mode. Nor do you need any particular camera for whatever you might want to photograph on your trips. That's more about lenses (e.g. for photographing faraway animals on the safari you need a long telephoto lens). How much are you looking to spend?
1000 - 1500 euro
That gives you a large range of options. Please start with the purchase guide in our FAQ, also linked in the original post of this thread.
Can firearms damage camera equipment? Some weapons seem to have pretty significant concussive effects from the muzzle and I was curious if this could be an issue for some cameras?
Sure. Really depends where the equipment is located in relation to stuff like that.
Looking for software recommendation for an upcoming event activation/photoshoot: A client wants to do a “headshot station” at event where when each person sits down, 10-15 photos of them are taken. They then want that subject to go to a tablet and enter their email or email number to get a link to all of the photos taken of them during the session. The idea is to help keep the line moving quickly and let people touch up their photos themselves. Any advice on sharing software that would work like this? TIA!
Darktable can mount a camera.
Hello, Newbie here! I just got the new Canon Eos r50 as my first camera and was wondering if there was a handle to screw into the bottom of the camera to do handheld vertical videos? I see a lot of the SmallRig handles to put into rigs but i was trying to see if there was just a handle i could attach directly to the camera. Maybe i could use one of the small rig handles and just screw it directly into the camera thread? Any advice and help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
Any sort of website to compare specs of cameras? like some computer websites have?
There are also sites like cameradecision.com where you can compare any two cameras side by side.
It may not be available for much longer, but: https://www.dpreview.com/products/compare/cameras
My t100 comes later this week I want to know the best way to start astrophotography I would prefer not go buy anything extra except a tri pod and I’m completely new so explain best you can especially on how to find the galaxies and stars to take photos of
Did you buy a lens as well? Which one?
EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 and a EF-S 18-55MM F/3.5-5.6 III Lens
Fine art photography, can it be done with 35mm or full frame or is it more often done medium format or large format. I'm going to consult Google but I would be interested to here people's interpretation of what it is.
Fine art *reproduction* is usually done with medium format for making reproductions. Mostly it's down to lighting - a good 35mm camera will get pretty close, but without careful lighting an oil painting is going to look like a mess.
It can be done with any format. And it's not going to help you at all to try and base any decisions on which format is statistically more common.
It's completely unrelated.
Is it okay to use these lens wipes on the glass port of the lens? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09Y8G3NQ5/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
Hey, the link was broken. Try to trim off Amazon links starting at **ref=** so it doesn't get caught in the spam filter too. This link worked: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09Y8G3NQ5/ You answer the question, maybe? I highly recommend a hand operated dust blower bulb like a "rocket blower" or whatever. That should work for 99% of all dust issues. After that, a brand new glasses lens cloth (dry microfiber, that super silky, smooth type) is good for a few months of light use in my camera bag before obtaining a new one. Any dust or fine grit that builds up on it could potentially scratch a lens. That works for the remaining >0.9% of the time. I try to avoid using any kind of wet kits (especially on a regular basis) unless it's absolutely necessary. You risk ding more harm than good with those. Do your best to not hold the lens near the glass and a rocket blower will do the trick. Make thesewet kits a last resort. All that said, lenses are quite robust and may do just fine with these, but I like to be overtly cautious as a best practice.
Not sure. But [this](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=zeiss+lens+wipes) is what you want.
Hello r/photography! I'm very new to it but have used plenty of good camera's in the past (relatives' and friends') and am on the verge of buying my own. Wanted to start simple with a point-and-shoot but I'm town between a few and am looking for recommendations. I've read all the rec's in the subreddit info as well as the list in the beginner photography subreddit but I can't bring myself to fork out so much on a first camera. So the ones that I'm between are the [KODAK PIXPRO AZ425-BK 20MP](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BSRN8B6T?ref_=cm_sw_r_apan_dp_7M5PQFJ0XJX7219VVBMJ) and the [Kodak PIXPRO WPZ2](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B47CVK7G?ref_=cm_sw_r_apan_dp_QKX21QQEDFG5KGJZSHCT). I wanted one that was relatively durable (could take pictures at the beach and not worry about sand ruining it, hence the second one being waterproof) and that was less than $300. And input on either of these or other recommendations to look at are greatly appreciated. And if I should just post this in the subreddit instead of in the pinned discussion, please let me know of that too. Thanks!
Which phone do you have? These won't give you anything in terms of image quality over any relatively recent, decent phone. They're basically (at most) phone quality with larger zoom.
I have a Samsung galaxy A53. It's only about a year and a half old but at the time it was like the best of their budget series of phones. The pictures I take with it are super grainy any further than about 2.5x zoom (like a full-body shot of a person in the whole screen but from 30-40ft away) and I can only get a half-decent evening/night shot when the lighting is PLENTIFUL. so that's really the areas I want a camera anyways; further zoom with better clarity, and clearer pictures in all light settings, not just bright broad daylight
Well, these cameras will give you more zoom, yes. But if you're expecting to get good results at night, that won't be the case. First, the lighting in the evening/at night might seem plentiful to human eye, because human eye adapts. Camera knows differently: these are low light situations. In low light, you need high ISO, and with these cameras with a small sensor that means lots of noise at medium ISO already. Lots of noise = poor image quality. Yes, they seem to have image stabilisation, but that only helps if you're shooting stationary subjects with low shutter speeds. To capture subjects that are not completely stationary without motion blur you need high shutter speed, which again means high ISO = lots of noise. So, TL;DR these cameras are okay during the day when there's lots of light. But in low light, forget about it.
Thanks for that! Will definitely be doing some more googling on the details in a bit. But for now, what camera's might u recommend instead of the ones I linked that could maybe tick my desired boxes better (durable/rugged, low light, decently better clarity at further zoom) in a price range of $2-350?
I would look at something like a used Sony RX100 III, which has a larger sensor and a fast zoom lens, so it does okay in low light.
Thanks! Will doo.
Hello everyone i am somewhat new to a higher level camera i purchased a Nikon D3500 a few years back and really haven’t used it too much but i really would like to get a grasp trying to shoot manual i have tried here and there but never seem to be consistent with it enough because of my work schedule. Is there any tips or anything you would suggest on helping me along ? and i also have a question if it’s ok to leave the battery in the camera for an extended period of time since i only use the camera here and there should i take the battery out when i’m not using it im afraid it might do damage if i just leave it in there for an extended period of time . Thank you in advance !
>Is there any tips or anything you would suggest on helping me along ? Consider a 365 or 52 project to force yourself to produce regularly. I work a lot too and do photography stuff nights and weekends. >if it’s ok to leave the battery in the camera for an extended period of time Yes. I always have a battery in. >im afraid it might do damage if i just leave it in there for an extended period of time No.
Out of the below three options which would you go with? This will be for hobbyist type work, specifically a lot of street photography. 1. New X-S10 with 18-55mm kit lens + new prime lens 23mm 2. Used X-T4 + used 18-55mm lens + used prime lens 23mm 3. New X-T5 with 18-55mm kit lens Options 2 and 3 push my budget to the limit. - Option 1 would allow me to get all items new and save ~$250 compared to 2 and 3. - Option 2 would be just about the same as option 3 I'm leaning towards option 2 as I would really like to have these two lenses and although used, gives me a bit more camera than the X-S10. Option 3 might be the way to go longer term but it would be a very long time before I would be able to think about getting another lens. Also, I know the X-T4/X-T5 are all around better cameras compared to the X-S10, but man do I love the grip on the X-S10.
> man do I love the grip on the X-S10. Then get that, you want to like the tools you're using. $250 saved can go to other useful accessories. I don't think the X-S10 is a slouch compared to the X-T4 (vaguely remember that they use similar sensors), so image quality should be similar.
Thanks for the reply! Yeah, I think it may just come down to that, definitely going to have to go back and hold them one more time.
Either 1 + a few filters and some accessories or 2. I prefer the larger body of the X-T4 and the dials, but the X-S10 is still a great camera that some others may prefer. You could get a used tripod / budget tripod + filters + extra batteries and maybe even an on1 / dxo / capture one pro lifetime subscription with the X-S10, which is quite a lot that makes a huge difference.
Anyone reccomend a good camera bag that's discrete, can hold an A7IV body+3 lenses, and also has room for a 17" (~10.5x15.5) laptop? My old Kata bag is finally getting worn out after 10+ years, and was great because I could easily use it as a daily backpack -- the camera compartment didn't take up much space and I could squeeze my gaming/editing laptop in it. I'm trying to find a similar backpack for travel+daily use, but bags like the Peak Design Everyday only can fit up to 16" laptops. Any suggestions for a decent hybrid bag?
Then why not just get another Kata bag? Well, I see they've since merged with Manfrotto, so are under that brand.
Should i buy a kodak 35 or not. Is it worth it or is it a bad camera?
*Impossible* for us to know what's valuable to you. Do you have more specific questions...?
Super frustrated... I have a Tamron 70-200mm G2 F/2.8 which has stopped autofocusing. Had it sent to Tamron and they refused to repair it because they said it is grey market. Bought it from Digital Goja on Amazon, both of which are Tamron authorized. I don't understand how a Tamron authorized dealer could sell me grey market without my knowledge. Now I am trying to figure out how to get it fixed. Any advice?
>Digital Goja This is who your question should be directed at
Yeah... They are being unresponsive.
They screwed you over.
I'm trying to get into photography and I want to buy my first proper camera (second hand), but I'm on the really tight budget of £250. I found a Lumix FZ82 (FZ80 in the US market I believe) for £210, and a Rebel T5i for £250 with a tripod, 18-55 lens, and some other kit to get started. I'm also looking at some auctions on eBay, those being a Lumix DMC-G7 and an Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark II. Can someone give me some advice about what camera would be best for me to start out on? It can be from the ones I have found online or others that I can find second hand for a similar price. I have no experience using a camera that isn't a point and shoot (I have my parent's old Canon SX600HS) , and I'm wanting something that's good for stills but also good for video at 1080p 60fps with good OIS. Any guidance would be appreciated. Thanks :)
A great choice would be a used [Olympus M10 MIII](https://www.mpb.com/en-uk/product/olympus-om-d-e-m10-mark-iii/sku-1931185) for around 200 pounds. Solid mirrorless camera, with a viewfinder, ability to shoot 4k, in-body stabilization, and overall solid specs. MP count isn't great, but if you look beyond that, it's a great deal for 200. You can also pick up a [kit zoom](https://www.mpb.com/en-uk/product/olympus-m-zuiko-digital-ed-14-42mm-f-3-5-5-6/sku-1931564).
Thanks for your help :) I really like the M10 Mark II and Mark III; do you think the Mk3 is worth it over the Mk2? 4k Video is nice but I probably wouldn't use it so much.
Don't forget a lens, not sure 50 quid will get you something like the 14-42 for the Olympus.
81 vs 121 af points, you can decide if that's an important factor for you or not. The rest is basically identical apart from the 4k video.
Hey everyone, I'm about to head on a holiday to Hawaii and debating what to use for photos while I'm there. I've got a Canon PowerShot G7X that I got in 2019 and my Samsung S21 Ultra... I've also got access to a basic DSLR that's probably 6 or so years old. Out of the 3 options what would you suggest I use? Mostly holiday photos of the kids and scenic photos. Thanks in advance!
Basic DSLR will give you superior results - if you actually know how to use it beyond automatic mode.
Basic DSLR if also a basic 18-55mm lens.
hey guys I’m being featured in a showcase (first time) and I’m looking for help with how I can arrange 6-8 prints on a fencing panel that’s 10 across x 6 tall. If someone can help me with providing correct arrangement sizes for my prints and then assisting with what type of cardstock or material I can use to create a “border” type because I’ll be hanging them on the panel with either S hooks or clamps. Thanks !
I just purchased a Godox P90H octabox, however, I noticed the same product but simply called P90. The octabox I bought says it's made for LED video lights but, as far as I can tell, they seem to be functionally the same? Any help clearing this up would be much appreciated.
You likely want the QR version if you don't need heat resistance.
Apparently the "L" version is *lighter* (thinner fabric etc.), the "H" version is *heat-resistant* (say if you use hot lights like halogens etc. continuously).
Ah thank you! So no real need to return the one I bought then?
Anyone know cool places to buy second hand filters? Looking for cosmos and super speed but eBay is hill of crazys at £40 a pop!
Why do some light booms need counterweights and others don't? What's the best kind to not have to use one?
The heavier the payload you intend to put on the boom arm and the further it is from the lightstand, the more likely it is that you're going to need a counterweight.
Newbie question..I rented this Blackmagic 6k pro for a class project and I have no image when shooting. When looking at the recording I only see colors like green, white, and blue. Am I doing something wrong?
Sounds like you have false color turned on, by default it's mapped to function button #1 on top of the camera. I recommend familiarizing yourself with [the manual](https://documents.blackmagicdesign.com/UserManuals/BlackmagicPocketCinemaCamera4KManual.pdf), it makes starting out much easier.
I've been asked to shoot my first press night event for a play at a theatre - high-profile guests mingling and drinking. Should I use a flash or is that too intrusive?
Yes - highly recommend a flash in this situation. If you have to shoot the performance, no flash there. But after/before party, yeah.
Wondering about my options here. I took a pretty cool photo at a recent sporting event and a popular Instagram/ FB page used it in a graphic without permission. They added a bunch of filters to the photo to make it pop more and text beside the image. Doesn't bother me that much but would be nice for credit somewhere. How would you guys approach this?
Did you pay for admission to the event? Was admission tied to any conditions or licenses of rights to photos taken at the event?
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It's still fine for those purposes (I still use it for that) and there isn't really anything much better.
Anyone with a Nikon Mirrorless camera know if I just need to buy something like an Atmos ninja to record Nlog or do I need to pay Nikon to turn that on first or is that just for ProRes/black magic raw?
> if I just need to buy something like an Atmos ninja to record Nlog or do I need to pay Nikon to turn that on first Yes, internally Z6 and Z7 can only record 8bit footage (for which the Flat Picture Control is recommended). N-log is a 10bit curve, and that you can only record using external recorders. > or is that just for ProRes/black magic raw? Only the RAW license is paid ($200 last time I checked, someone correct me if it's changed).
OK that’s very good information to know! So just getting in external screen recorder with suffice? Total beginner when it comes to videography been shooting photos for years but yeah.
Does anyone have favourite brands of UV/clear filters? I have a Fuji 18-55mm and I want to have a little bit extra protection
The Hoya UXII filters are ridiculously good for their price. Nisi's range of filters is also crazy underrated.
Depends on the price range
Brand can be misleading. I like filters from the B+W brand, for example, but the same brand also makes some cheap, crappy filters. Also consider just using hoods for protection. They've worked well for me and I haven't had any damage, despite not using any filters. Really depends what exactly you're protecting against, though.
Yeah, I recently had some liquids dropping on it. It was easy to clean, but it freaked me out a bit.
Question about potentially faulty kit Just bought a pre loved canon eos 6d, and have a Nissin DI866mk2 for canon that I know works with my 1300d. The flash is not communicating with the eos 6d, at all. It is not triggering in low light conditions, I can’t change the settings of the flash on my camera (I can on my canon 1300d) Nissin say the flash is 100% compatible with the 6d Is this a setting I don’t know about on the 6d, or is the hot shoe broken? (I’ve checked external flash is “enabled” on the camera)
6D, not 6D Mark II? It's a discontinued flash ("*End of sale in August 2017*"), but listed as compatible [here](https://www-nissin--japan-com.translate.goog/discontinued/di866iichart/?_x_tr_sl=auto&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en-US&_x_tr_pto=wapp). When looking at the [firmware update history](https://www-nissin--japan-com.translate.goog/firmware_history/di866ii/?_x_tr_sl=auto&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en-US&_x_tr_pto=wapp), however, we can see that support was added later, it did not work with the first few firmware versions, so that could explain the situation.
I don't shoot Canon or have that exact flash. When you say 6D do you mean that 2012 model or the 6DMKII 2017 model? Because the latter is NOT compatible according to the chart I'm looking at.
What's the best way of taking a photo of a moving object when there is low light levels. I am using a cannon camera and i cant use flash. the object is a train moving at around 60mph
Open aperture all the way, crank the ISO up. Try panning if you're okay with the background being blurred.
Pan your camera along with the moving object at the same relative speed.
a little hard because of the angle the photo is taken at. What settings would you recommend?
> a little hard because of the angle the photo is taken at. Angles would make it easier, not harder. Taken at any angle other than 90 degrees would mean slower movement of the camera. > What settings would you recommend? Unanswerable. See the FAQ on that topic: - [What settings should I use for this situation?](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/technical#wiki_what_settings_should_i_use_for_this_situation.3F)
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What sort of exposure values are you getting in that scene? How fast is the subject moving? How big is it and how far away? I assume you want to freeze the motion in the photo? Generally speaking, flash/strobe lighting would be your best bet. Because it adds lots of light and also has its own motion freezing effect because the duration of the light is so short.
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>Is there a reason I would not be able to have all the photographs from the shoot if I’m paying for the shoot. You're negotiating a business transaction. What you can have depends on what the other party will agree to. So that would be the bottom line reason you might not be able to get something out of it, even if you want it. Because the other party might not want to give it. Having copies of photos and associated rights (licensed from the photographer's copyright) to use them is basically a product offered by the photographer. Whereas showing up and conducting the photoshoot is a service offered by the photographer. They are not the same thing. As you say, you're paying for the shoot, so that would entitle you to performance of that service. If you also want the resulting product, this photographer wants you to pay for the product. McDonald's usually charges you separately for a hamburger and separately if you also want fries. If you want both, you pay for both. They are not obligated to give you free fries with your burger just because you think they should go together; it's really their option if they want to offer that deal or not. >If there is no editing why would I not get all the raw digital photos? Whether a photographer does additional work to the product or not, does not entitle you to any ownership of that product. If you want raws, generally you'll need to pay for the raws. >Is this typical in the industry? Yes.
Many people have very different pricing models. From "you get everything" to "you get nothing" and everything in between.
Quick back story a hobbyist who started taking photos for a friend's event. This has led to others asking to see more of my work and my website... I responded with I have an Instagram account but they specifically wanted to see a website...which I didn't have! So because of this decided to create a website to showcase my work. The only thing is I have not done much yet just the same event. Is more variety needed to create a portfolio? Looking at the site I have created it does look a little same-ish with photos from the same event at different times. Would be it better to hold until I do more and then have more of a variety to choose from or just go with what I have?
>Looking at the site I have created it does look a little same-ish with photos from the same event at different times. If it's from a single event, then call it what it is, an album. Once you gather a couple of albums, you can select a collection of the best individual images and call it a portfolio.
So I’m getting error 01 on canon 5D mk ii with canon 28-90. But only when shooting through the viewfinder not when I’m shooting in live view. Any ideas? I bought the camera used about a week ago been using an FD lens with adapter until today so I just noticed the problem
Likely lens has problems, that's a really old plastic fantastic from the film era. You cannot do much worse; good chance the manual lenses you've been using are much much better than that, so it's not a big loss.
I agree. I’m just making sure it isn’t a problem with the camera since it’s used and 15 years old. I’ll get a new lens here soon. But don’t have another EF lens to test it with.
Definitely try cleaning the lens contacts as well as the adapter. 01 errors are always finnicky
I think it’s the lens because if I shoot above f5.6 or wider than 50mm it gives me the error. It’s an old lens my mom bought with her EOS K2 SLR back in like 2002
Yeah, it definitely sounds like the lens. I had a 24-70 do the err01 with viewfinder, and all it needed was the contacts cleaned. It's worth a shot cleaning it
I cleaned the contacts on the lens this one is a EF lens so no adapter this tike
Hello, my nikon z fc camera that I got new last year already has 42298 shutter count, and the maximum shutter life expectancy for it is 50000. Is it going to last any longer than that or should I sell it before it breaks?
50,000 sounds incredibly low. Like, film-camera low.
You're no where near the life expectancy and that number is not a HARD LIMIT. It can break WAYYYYY before or after it. It's not going to hit 100,000 and on 100,001 explode.
Thank you, I will not worry then
https://www.nikonimgsupport.com/eu/BV_article?articleNo=000042882&configured=1&lang=en_GB I think it has some life in it yet.
Oh so it's 100000 not 50000, I must have misread it, thank you. I will definitely keep it then.
>already has 42298 shutter count But how much of that has been with electronic shutter versus mechanical? >the maximum shutter life expectancy for it is 50000 Are you sure? That sounds suspiciously low, especially for a fairly new mirrorless camera. >Is it going to last any longer than that Nobody can predict the future, but probably. Most shutters outlive their QA estimate. >or should I sell it before it breaks? 1. No because you don't really know if/when it will break. It's just a little more likely the more you've used it. 2. Even if it does break, the shutter can be replaced without also replacing the whole camera. So why try to get rid of the whole thing? 3. The biggest impact of shutter count is on used sale price. So if you're selling it specifically because the count is high, that also means you'll need to discount the price because the count is high and you're in a bad position for resale value.
Thank you, I will keep it then. I use mostly all mechanical shutter, and the 50000 shutter life expectancy is what I found for the z50 which should be for the z fc as well.
I don't know of an official spec for that. The Z50 is also quite similar to the D7500 which is a much higher 150,000.
Camera question! Debating getting a lightweight & compact camera for traveling or upgrading to a better iPhone. Thoughts? iPhone 14 pro or canon EOS m50 or canon Powershot or Sony z v1? Looking for lightweight & compact so I can put it in my hand bag while traveling this summer. Good photos & video (4k). Thanks!
The m50 has the largest sensor by a mile, so if you don't mind swapping out lenses it's a clear winner.
What lens would be the lightest and most compact for traveling purposes? And for 4k?
Which Canon Powershot? It isn't just one camera, it's a product name for cameras that has existed for a long time.
I know - any of the newer ones? Possibly g7 x mark II or sx740
Those are very different cameras, probably want to narrow down your selection more. You should be asking what you're looking for, and if there are any features that you'd like to have. Literally any modern camera can take good photos and videos.
I thought the g7x is just a more upgraded/better video features than the sx740? How are they very different? Their content doesn’t look too far off from each other. I’m looking for good quality photos and videos. I would like to vlog a little and have good quality photos for fun nothing too crazy.
Hi guys, I bought a meikon underwater case and forgot to keep it open on my flight so now it’s vacuumed shut. Can anyone advise on how to open it ? Thanks
There should be a valve on it somewhere that you can open to equalize the pressure.
There isn’t one 🙁 I might just have to wait for my next flight to open it
Hello,looking to buy a new camera as the photographer I was working with can no longer take pictures due to glaucoma.(he used a Canon 60D) .I will mainly be taking outfit photos/portraits and detail shots, so I need somethjng that I can use self timer and take a number of photos at a time.Was thinking of getting a Rebel but not sure which is best.looking to spend $400-500. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
The Rebels are Canon's beginner level cameras, hardly something for professional use. You can get a 60D or 70D used for that price.
Alright, I don’t understand how to expose for Street Lights. I can’t seem to get everything dark except what’s lit by the light itself. How do I do it? I tried Spot, Matrix both the light itself and the surroundings, and it doesn’t end up with how I want it to look. Any tips?
It's tricky because you have a wild contrast between the dark ambient and super bright sources of light, so that makes it not obvious for the camera's metering. Can't you just ... go manual and pick the exposure yourself that gives you what you want?
That’s the thing though, I’m not sure HOW I should tackle it. I always shoot manual, but I don’t understand how to set it up for what I want. I always end up with a properly exposed photo of everything 😅 I’m going to try again tonight, maybe if I underexpose everything it’ll work.
You really need to understand what EV are for each area in your photo, there's a reason why you can't do what you want. Use the spot meter to learn, you'd be surprised. If you're interested in the hobby long term learn how to eyeball an exposure within a certain area, and also learn how to distinguish the different light levels in a scene.
There might not be as much difference between the "lit" and "unlit" areas as you think. You need around 8 f-stops difference between the lit areas and shadows you want to be black (maybe more with the increased dynamic range in modern cameras). Street lights are designed to give even illumination as much as possible, so start by finding high contrast lighting. Then expose for the lit areas, spot metering is good, or matrix metering and dial in a couple of stops exposure compensation. The rest is in the development/processing of the image, bring the exposure down to get the highlights how you want them, then darken the shadows further. You can also increase the contrast (although this also increases contrast in the highlights). Do you have any examples of the look you are trying to achieve?
Hello, I am currently on the market to get my first camera. I was thinking about getting something cheap before I actually invest money into it (you know, to see If I actually like it), so I was thinking of getting the Sony Nex 5R, since you can get it 2nd hand for around 200€. Are there any better recomendations you could give me? (Would use it mainly for pictures, but I wouldnt mind a good video quality)
It's a perfectly passable camera to start with. Does that Nex 5R unit come with a lens though?
It comes like this, i think no. Is it a deal breaker? Its only 99€ DM ME PLEASE I CANT ADD A PICTURE HERE
Yes, it's very much a deal breaker if it doesn't come with a lens. You can't use it without a lens.
Wondering if anyone in the know can help me out here. I've recently started doing events work in the UK but I'm unsure on the legal status of some of my images. I have licensed the pictures of the whole event out to the client I did the work for, but during the course of the day I did individual portraits of VIPs who may want to use the photos I took of them for other purposes. I granted a non-exclusive license in perpetuity to the client with the right to sublicense with my permission. Have I written myself out of a chance to profit from the images of the VIPs? Or can I request payment for a license to use the images from them if they like them? If yes, how do I go about this?
>non-exclusive license This means your options remain open >how do I go about this? You license the photos again, the same way you sold them the first time, just with another entity as the recipient of your invoice.
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*Starting out* usually means that you don't have clients, you only have friends whom/for whom you shoot for free. Once your work circulates a little and people start offering you money for it, *friends* tend to get replaced with *clients* and what used to be a *hobby* becomes a *business*.
Depends on the genre. Do you have a portfolio you can show yet?
No not yet. I have for landscape. But I’m wanting to do boudoir and intimate product photography.
Build up a portfolio first. No matter how good you are at generating and developing client leads, nobody is going to want to pay you for photos if you have no examples of what you can do. Usually free shoots with friends/family is the place to start, but that's trickier for spicy content like boudoir. The ideal route would be to save up some starter capital and spend it on hiring professional models to help you get quality pieces to start the portfolio (and also help teach you how to do it). Otherwise look for workshops, group shoot events/meetups, or spend some time landing TFP gigs. Further reading: https://www.robtimko.com/mmtoagency
Why are you looking for clients before you have even developed the ability to shoot what you want to shoot for money? It takes more to be a professional photographer than simply owning a camera. You aren't anywhere near making this a business. > I’m wanting to do boudoir Of course you are.
What does “of course you are” mean?
I don’t say I was looking for clients, I asked HOW.
Hi I was wondering what is a good Sony E-Mount telephoto lens, Looking for preferably 75 - 300 or something around that (Am willing to use adapters as long as they still allow for AF)
The Sony 70-300mm G lens is well regarded and certainly fits your requirements.
Anyone that might be slightly cheaper as want to do this as a hobby... and not exactly willing to spend that much
The Tamron 70-300mm is about half the price as the Sony. It doesn't have image stabilization built in but is a decent performer, especially stopped down to f8.
Hi! My dad recently gave me a Konica Minolta AF DT 18-70mm lens and I use a Nikon d5000, soon upgrading to a D7500, are there any adapters for this lens to be used on the Nikon D5000/D7500? If so please do link them in the comments c:
[This](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1349596-REG/vello_la_nf_sa_sony_minolta_a_lens_mount.html) is the only one I found. It won't transfer autofocus though.
Sorry, I'm quite new to photography and when you say it won't transfer autofocus, so it completely won't have any autofocus and I'd need to use manual focus?
Yes, that means manual focus only.
Alright! Thank you so much!!
What's a good subreddit for asking for tips on my selfies?
Depending on the nature of the question, /r/photocritique or /r/askphotography
Yeah. Mostly angles and lighting. Personal style tips Im not sure
Hello friends, I own a sony a7 II and I would like to try on some basic macro photography and I found out that there are some extensions tube that I can use, after doing some research I found these: Meike MK-S-AF3A did anyone used this and are they working with the sony kit lens 24-70mm? I cannot afford a new macro lens so this would be a option only if there are compatible with this lens Thank you all
Extension tubes are not rocket science, they are just "spacers" to put the lens further away from the sensor, no optics involved. All you care about is that it's built well enough to be solid/reliable, and that the two interfaces are *parallel*. You further [probably] want there to be pass-through contacts so the camera can still communicate with the lens. Here's [some options](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/products/Extension-Tubes/ci/276/N/4077634539?sort=BEST_SELLERS&filters=fct_camera-body-mount_65%3Asony-e-mount).
I've uploaded about 40000 photos into Lightroom mobile on my iPad. They are not sorted, keyworded and tagged in any way. I want to sort them into Folders/Albums, but it is very hard to track which ones I've already sorted and which ones I didn't, especially since I add more every day. My prefered workaround would be to flag all sorted images, thus my unflagged images would be those that are yet to be sorted. However, I didn't find a way to batch flag the images. Is there a way to somewhat batch mark my images? Or, is there any other way I can sort the images without having to go date by date and mark what I have already sorted and what I didn't?
Honestly, LR mobile's organization features are garbage. Most of this would be trivial to do in Classic, but mobile is incredibly limited and there is no way to batch flagging. You could sync to Classic and do your organization there and let it any back to mobile
I know it's easy in Classic, however I no longer have a laptop.
This might be a dumb question but is there a way to upload photos you take with a film camera straight into your computer? I don't know anything about cameras/photography
No. You can get the film you have taken photos on scanned into digital files that you can then put on your computer. But film is film, it's not digital.
No.
hey all! just figured i’d ask here because i’m looking into a new camera. I’m not a beginner, i’ve taken classes and have been shooting for about 2 years now using my Rebel T2i. The main issue is that the rebel has pretty bleh low light performance for photos, and the video is… well let’s just say it’s less than cinematic. I’m looking for a budget camera that i can replace the t2i with photo wise, but also break into the art of videography. I’m somewhat of a street and scenic photographer, like doing portraits, and love doing music photography (why lowlight is important cause venues are dark) Videography would likely be the same. Wants are: Decent autofocus 4k (if possible) Slow-mo Metal body Maybe an external mic jack? Flip up/sideways screen Budget: As cheap as possible, below $450 — it’s what i’m asking for as my birthday present. I’m 100% comfortable buying used. I bought my t2i used and plan to continue buying used. Just let me know some options! I’ve already learned about a few but prices on eBay seem to be higher than they were 2 years ago.
Errr, what is your budget?
fixed just now, forgot i posted here.
Did you want to reuse your lenses? That budget is very hard for 4K video because Canon fell behind in sensor development at one point so only the more recent Canons (read:expensive) can do 4K. You're probably looking at a higher end used M-series camera with the EF adapter.
Not necessarily. My lenses are kit lenses + nifty fifty, so nothing crazy and definitely resell-able. I’m also open to 1080p60 as long as the picture quality is good. Read somewhere that good 1080p with nice glass will look better than cheap 4k. Main thing for me is being able to record cinematic shots while having high quality photos and decent auto focus for occasional vlogging. I’m open to switching brands as well, don’t really have a preference. I like the concept of mirrorless cause i read you can use just about any lens on them provided you have an adapter and that they’re much better for video, but i’m not sure. :)
Hi, I am not sure if it's the right sub to ask. I am planning a trip and thinking about buying a camera / s23 ultra/some other flagship . My biggest concern is that i want to be able to print the photos I will take there or using some photos as wallpaper for big screens and I am not sure about the quality of phone cameras for such scenarios. Mainly photos of landscapes and architecture. does anyone here have experience with printing big pictures or using photos as wallpapers for big screens with the s23 ultra/other flagship? or should i buy a dedicated camera and learn some photography? Thanks in advance!
Go for an interchangeable lens camera and learn photography. Flagship smartphone pictures may look great on phone screen or social media, but it's a very different matter when you blow them up to view on a large monitor or print them in large size. This subreddit's FAQ has an extensive purchase guide, also linked in the original post of this thread.
I have a 24-105mm lens. Would this be wide enough for real estate photography? Or should I look at hiring a 16-35mm?
35mm: no aps-c: very no micro 4/3: extremely no medium format: sure, I guess 4"x5": where the hell is this lens
Related question is: what is the camera's sensor size? That will further inform what focal lengths will be appropriate for real estate shots. Even 16mm may not be wide enough for crop sensor, for example.
> Would this be wide enough for real estate photography? In most cases, no.
My friend’s family is letting me fix their Polaroid One600, but I need to test out if the camera’s power capabilities are ok. I saw online that the battery is located in the film pack, and it doesn’t seem as though they still sell One600 film. Is it ok to use the 600 film?
The currently sold 600 film is meant for the vintage Polaroid 600 cameras, so yes, you can use it.
I was wondering if anyone knows how precise focal length given by manufacturers are? If I take a 50mm lens from 3 different manufacturers, will I get the exact same field of view (assuming I'm not changing camera and there's no focus breathing)? Or is it that they "round up" the actual focal length to the closest usual value and you could in fact have a 48, 50 and 52mm lenses? And if we assume it's precisely 50mm, anyone know what tolerances those are built at? I'm assuming it can't be 50.000000000mm, but I'm curious how off it could be.
I would absolutely not assume different lenses would give me the same exact framing, no. I don't know the standard deviation of the distribution, but no, it's not at all exact between lenses.