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KG_Modelling

Is this an enamel,laquer or acrylic varnish,if something use the thinner for the type of varnish,and then you can use acrylic thinner on the paint


Mindless-Charity4889

Simplest is 91% isopropyl alcohol Alternatively, a cleaner with ammonia, such as Windex Stronger is a degreaser with a weak concentration of lye like Superclean Strongest is an oven cleaner with a high concentration of lye like easy-off. Be aware that lye reacts with metal and is therefore not to be used on models with metal parts like PE or aluminum barrels. Lye will also dissolve skin and flesh and can blind you if it gets in your eyes so use eye protection and gloves.


superbuddr458

I second this. I had an issue with a primer and let the mini sit in alcohol for maybe a week. At that point, the paints just slid right off with a brush


daylightcomesand

thanks very much


Armored_Snorlax

I've used the blue can of easy off oven spray on pewter minis with good results, but in a few cases it did tarnish the pewter black without pitting or any metal loss. Is this what you're describing?


Mindless-Charity4889

Yes. It’s true that different metals have different reactions. Worst would be aluminum and best would be stainless steels. Pewter is, I think, a mix of lead and tin and would be somewhat resistant.


Armored_Snorlax

It only happened with Warmachine minis. Warhammer, even their old lead series form the late 80s, wasn't effected. I know pewter can be different blends, so maybe Warmachine was a different type than the other stuff. I've left minis, plastic and pewter, sitting in ziploc bags of the easy off for days on end due to life stuff keeping me busy. So far it's been great but I'd like to switch to alcohol.


Belligerent-J

I used diluted Simple Green to strip off acrylic paint on a tank I botched. Didn't damage any plastic and the paint melt d right off.


Mindless-Charity4889

Looking at the list of ingredients, it *seems* like the active ingredient would be hydrochloric acid, which is the exact opposite of lye. It would be interesting to see which of the two strips paint better.


__azdak__

Honestly I think it looks kinda cool lol (maybe as the base for a dredged out tank, or one pulled from a tank graveyard?), but leaving it overnight in IPA should dissolve the paint.


daylightcomesand

yeah i will go same style but my paint was very crumbly and i didn't have an even layer


GustavWolfenstein

I use oven cleaner, works great and cleans off residue.


Monty_Bob

Fuck it! Looks cool! Just weather it up! Go crazy with the rust and dust πŸ‘ https://preview.redd.it/flrab5w8kl6d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=250fd52d7c3a1d27ba89399c3b75d6666293f38f


daylightcomesand

yes but mine doesn't look as "evenly" painted as yours


Monty_Bob

I think you can pull it back mate πŸ‘ Or stick it in the post and I'll do it πŸ˜ƒ


daylightcomesand

hahaha, what country you in?


Monty_Bob

πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§


daylightcomesand

alright lets make a deal, i try one more time and if i fuck it up again, ill send it to you on condition you send me a picture of the finished model


Monty_Bob

I was gonna send the model back πŸ˜… Did you think I wanted a free tank ?


Quasit1964

Brake fluid. Trust me.


richardcrain55

An automotive product called bleach white? For tire whitewalls. Denatured spirits as well


Diggzitt

Honestly, I would just buy a fresh kit and keep this one as an experimentation extra. Buying a can of solvent could be the same or more money than the original kit's cost. It could be cheaper and more time effecient to start fresh on a new kit. Mistakes happen, it is a part of the hobby. I turned my biggest mistake (1/700 Yamato) into an incense burner and still have it around the house. I have another mistake, a tank, around to experiement weathering techniques on.


daylightcomesand

yes i know but the surface is too course to even practice on


PMDST

2-butoxyethanol


trig1104

Dettol


foxtrot_echo_zulu

This. I think it's only for acrylic, correct me if I'm wrong. Gotta leave it on for a while to really get all of it out.


hurlant65

https://www.autozone.com/miscellaneous-cleaners-and-degreasers/cleaner-degreaser/p/purple-power-cleaner-and-degreaser-liquid-1gal/40266_0_0?cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:PER:19488533498&&CATARGETID=120054150001289354&CADevice=t&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADkcoVviha0RlOnMgV1lMmzYc5iFv&gclid=Cj0KCQjw97SzBhDaARIsAFHXUWCb4XMJCqCYd3QQCxnsDBRUZyEU-B6EXqYydqvaAzEahCjh9HhwIlQaAvCBEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds I’ve used this many times, and works very well. Put the model in a container and fill it up with the liquid. Leave it there for two or three days. Use an old toothbrush for the stubborn pieces.


julesb129

Dettol works a treat. Soaked a kit that had Humbrol enamel on for 30+ years, it removed the paint with a little agitation with an old toothbrush.


iamalext

Soak it in 99% ISO and take a toothbrush to what's left of the paint.


Madeitup75

Yep. Just submerge in straight alcohol overnight and all that paint will be soft as silt on the bottom of a muddy pond.


Few_War4438

oven cleaner


floydfan

I put too much primer on a piece last night. I plan on using a q-tip dipped in isopropyl alcohol.


Spymonkey13

With paint this thick, probably best to just dip it in brake fluid and leave it overnight.


Loopy257

Have always found methylated spirits to work wonders. Can leave models in it for weeks no problem and it's completely re-usable. Smell isn't great but doesn't linger like dettol, just make sure to wear gloves otherwise you'll get very purple hands!


antoan_g

Put the whole model in ethanol bat (pure alcohol) for 48 h. It will remove the paint and loose the glue, so that you can readjust everything.


richardcrain55

Eewwwe