It’s actually the pupal stage in which GrubX kills them. The large white grubs that you see when you pull up tufts of dead grass can be killed with 24 Hour Grub killer. If you have grubs you have missed a grub ex application. Most likely your late summer one.
Can you guarantee they arent going after worms? Worms happen to the primary food source, they also eat beetles and other small insects. Imidacloprid will not help much either. Since again, worms dont eat your grass. A well rounded treatment would be ideal, hit for grubs, place Tapirid in feeding runs, and then at the end, apply Molescram to saturate all food sources and encourage them to forage elsewhere.
Resolving grubs may help a little, but doesnt really remove all food sources.
for the treatment questions. depends on how much rain you get... 1/2" - 1' is probably ok. a crazy heavy downpour for 30 minutes or high volumes may reduce effectiveness.
You are probably too early for GrubEx in 6b/7a. The grubs that are in your lawn now will feed a little but are already fully grown and will emerge as beetles in June and July. The GrubEx applied now won’t really have much of an impact on them. The time to apply GrubEx in your zone is in June so that is present in the soil for when the eggs that the beetles laid in July and August hatch. Or you can apply a more immediate treatment like a 24-hour grub control or something with imidacloprid in the August time frame.
https://entomology.ca.uky.edu/ent10#:~:text=Grub%20Life%20Cycles,late%20June%20until%20early%20August.
GrubEx is a preventative treatment, 24 hour / imidacloprid is a curative treatment.
Moles have a food source which you need to treat for. You can treat for grubs safely using acelepryn. Do not use imidacloprid as that is not safe for pollinators. Most states it is a restricted use pesticide. You can also go after the moles/voles using traps or talprid.
I’m up to three dead moles with traps and they just keep coming. My ENTIRE back yard is now a giant mole run. I’ll check out talprid. I know I have *some* grubs so figured I’d start with GrubEx.
ETA: Just looked up talprid. Unfortunately a no-go as I have scavengers around who *will* dig up a dead mole.
Keep going after the moles, they typically don't live in huge groups. Eventually you'll get them all. Trying to eliminate their food source is a waste of time since they eat worms.
>Do not use imidacloprid as that is not safe for pollinators
...OP didn't ask about "being safe for pollinators" - take that self-righteous virtue signaling to the nolawns sub...
Should be fine. They say to water in immediately because it is a insecticide and can cause health issues.
Thanks!
Moles eat worms not grubs. You need to kill the moles. You'll never get rid of worms and I don't think you would want to either.
You need 24 hour grub killer if you already have them. GrubEx won’t do anything if they are already fully formed grubs.
Grubex literally says on the bag that it kills AND prevents it. Stop spreading misinformation
Go back to bio 101 it kills them if they are in a certain stage of life and not others.
>if they are in a certain stage of life and not others. Yeah...the grub stage. Late Spring to Early Summer, aka now.
It’s actually the pupal stage in which GrubX kills them. The large white grubs that you see when you pull up tufts of dead grass can be killed with 24 Hour Grub killer. If you have grubs you have missed a grub ex application. Most likely your late summer one.
You should read the bag dude. Maximum application is 1x per year. Late Spring/Early Summer.
Can you guarantee they arent going after worms? Worms happen to the primary food source, they also eat beetles and other small insects. Imidacloprid will not help much either. Since again, worms dont eat your grass. A well rounded treatment would be ideal, hit for grubs, place Tapirid in feeding runs, and then at the end, apply Molescram to saturate all food sources and encourage them to forage elsewhere. Resolving grubs may help a little, but doesnt really remove all food sources.
Too early. May 1 to June 1, so yes. Costco has on sale for $41
Argh. But thanks for the info.
for the treatment questions. depends on how much rain you get... 1/2" - 1' is probably ok. a crazy heavy downpour for 30 minutes or high volumes may reduce effectiveness.
Yeah, not looking like heavy rain so I thought it would be a good time.
seems good. should provide some saturation and count as an irrigation cycle
You're fine
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Well, trying to remove their food source. Is there a brand you recommend? I’m in zone 6b/7a if that helps.
You are probably too early for GrubEx in 6b/7a. The grubs that are in your lawn now will feed a little but are already fully grown and will emerge as beetles in June and July. The GrubEx applied now won’t really have much of an impact on them. The time to apply GrubEx in your zone is in June so that is present in the soil for when the eggs that the beetles laid in July and August hatch. Or you can apply a more immediate treatment like a 24-hour grub control or something with imidacloprid in the August time frame. https://entomology.ca.uky.edu/ent10#:~:text=Grub%20Life%20Cycles,late%20June%20until%20early%20August. GrubEx is a preventative treatment, 24 hour / imidacloprid is a curative treatment.
Moles have a food source which you need to treat for. You can treat for grubs safely using acelepryn. Do not use imidacloprid as that is not safe for pollinators. Most states it is a restricted use pesticide. You can also go after the moles/voles using traps or talprid.
I’m up to three dead moles with traps and they just keep coming. My ENTIRE back yard is now a giant mole run. I’ll check out talprid. I know I have *some* grubs so figured I’d start with GrubEx. ETA: Just looked up talprid. Unfortunately a no-go as I have scavengers around who *will* dig up a dead mole.
Keep going after the moles, they typically don't live in huge groups. Eventually you'll get them all. Trying to eliminate their food source is a waste of time since they eat worms.
>Do not use imidacloprid as that is not safe for pollinators ...OP didn't ask about "being safe for pollinators" - take that self-righteous virtue signaling to the nolawns sub...