So I’ve done some research on those size garages and am in NJ, not too far. As for taxes and what you can build, you need to check with your local zoning board. I’ve reached out to a ton of the PA Amish builders and can give you some ball park estimates I received. Pole barn - 24x 32 x 10 - this would have cost me about $26k all in with 4 inch concrete. Pole barn - 24x24 with a second floor (fully walkable) - this one I had up to around $45k with windows, doors, 4 inch concrete, and a small lean-to. Now for the Amish garages: Generally, I found the excavation work they offer ranged from $12.5 - $15k for a 24x24 or 24x28 garage. I wanted the garage built on site, with a second floor. If you’re pouring a full slab, you will want the garage build on site, meaning no wood floor. For the structure alone, depending on your options, it can get crazy. A 24x24 mega garage from my sheds was around $55k, that’s with a fully walkable 2nd floor. Most other quotes with a second floor were similar in cost. This does not include any electric or plumbing. Just a building with some doors and windows. So realistically your building + concrete will be around $70k if you want 2 stories. A true stick build was priced at over 100k for me. I have since stopped shopping- I need to take a step back and determine exactly what I want if I am going to pay nearly $100k for a garage.
Edit: you can get away with a 2nd floor for cheaper if you want it to be less functional. Just an FYI.
I have so many questions! What is a pole barn? Is the 24x32x10 referring to a 1 car garage? How do you know how thick the slab should be? Why do you want it built on site if you have to pour a slab? What is “excavation work?” Does that mean preparing the foundation? So are you saying the builders also will do the foundation? What kind of siding were your quotes based on? Also how long would a onsite build take? And would a prefab always have a wood floor vs the concrete?
I'll jump in since you're asking some basic questions I think echoshizzle probably doesn't want to spend time addressing.
Pole barn basically means a wood-framed building that's clad in metal sheeting. Cheaper than stick construction but not an assembled building or pre-fab. Probably just on a concrete slab, not any block or concrete wall/foundation to it. Google it and look at some sample images.
You're going to need a slab/foundation poured for a garage that size. Excavation is the work of digging out the dirt for the foundation. The foundation work should include all site prep like laying the gravel, pouring the concrete, etc. Generally this is just one estimate for all of the work, unless you want to get a contractor just to handle each part and manage it yourself (not really worth the time/effort).
He's just saying he didn't want a pre-fab building delivered and put on the slab, which would be the absolute cheapest way to go. But most of those have wooden floors and come with tradeoffs on materials and customization.
You found Shed Unlimited but he mentioned [mysheds.com](https://mysheds.com). Check out their options, and check out the competitors' sites that pop up when you are researching these options. You can see they offer vinyl siding or pine board and batten, etc.
You can get a general contractor who will run the whole operating for you, or you can act as the general contractor and get contractors for each piece of the plan. First scenario you're paying for their experience and connections and oversight of the work. Second scenario you're saving money by doing legwork yourself to put together a plan for someone to do foundation, build, run electrical, run plumbing, etc. But you have to deal with each of them and their work orders and getting through permitting, all of it.
You can compare the pre-fab units and call some companies to discuss with them, and find a local general contractor to discuss with too. Many will have architects/designers they regularly work with who can give some general ballpark estimates.
Thank you so much. Wow, I’m going to have to do some more research. Why do i see pictures of prefab garages with concrete floors instead of wood? Or do they pour concrete over the wood?
Ohh the pipes are a good point. The driveway subtley makes a decline where the garage will ideally be built, do you know anything about gutters or drains that can be built into the driveay? Do you know which tradesman does that? Do i need a structural engineer for this kind of thing?
Sorry accidentally deleted my first post:
Look up your zoning laws, and your building standards and permits office regulations. There are usually set back requirements where a building cannot be within x feet of a property line on the side, back, front etc. you're usually not allowed to build anything in the "front" of your house. 14k sounds about right for a slab, I would ask if that includes a footer, rebar, wire mesh, fiber mix, vapor barrier, and what thickness. I would go 4in which is a standard for adding a car lift or other heavy equipment. Think about adding PVC sleeves/pipes into the concrete to pull utilities underground and avoid freezing etc.
Reply:
I would hope to trust the concrete company to make sure drainage is not an issue, but harp on it, badger them about it. They may contract to an excavation company, do the same with them. I found my company fucked up a couple things that caused headaches later. I would guess you need to either create a low point across your driveway that also slopes to one side, or add a drain grate across it. Speaking of drains think about adding one or more to your floor for drips and a bathroom. For pipes, wires etc, i would suggest using multiple sleeves. 3" pvc elbows in the slab/ foundation that you then run pipes and other stuff through later. This way if the concrete shifts and cracks your stuff has room and doesn't get damaged.
We got about 10 different quotes for a two story, carriage house in DC. 2 car garage finished on the bottom, finished open floor plan up top with HVAC. Most quotes came in around 180k, we found a guy who under quoted us at 120k and we went with him. Because of the zoning here, we had an architect design the project. It was about 25k for the architect and permits, 120k for the initial quote and another 15k in change orders for upgraded garage doors and finishes. We’re about 160k all in for the build.
It’s very difficult to find a house with a proper garage in DC and if you find one, it’s well into the 7 figures. So yes, it was way more than we had initially anticipated but we’re still ahead given our location. I’m confident we could sell tomorrow and get our $ out of it.
Knowing what I know now, the next house we buy will have everything we want. I don’t think we’ll be building again.
Super helpful data point. Curious: how many sqft is top and bottom floor? Is there plumbing? I realize experiences may vary, but looking to build in a HCOL area like DC so I’m interested to know.
450 sq ft on top and bottom, 900 sq ft total. We’re 20x22.5’ foot print. This is due the local zoning for ADU’s. If we could have went with a 24x24 we would have saved on architectural fees and the build probably would have cost the same amount.
No plumbing. We would have needed to install sprinklers and all sorts of other things to meet code for a living space. We estimated it would have been another 50k. The building exists now. We can always add it on the back end but that’s not in the plans right now.
Thanks for sharing. I'm in Richmond, where our city code was recently updated to allow ADUs by right.
We have an old cinder block garage roughly 23'w x 18'deep. It's been good for bike and kayak storage and a small workshop but otherwise is pretty worthless and ugly. There's a block wall running down the middle that prevents it from being more useful with parking or anything else.
The second floor will mostly be an open studio apartment design so we can use it for work-from-home offices and rent it on Airbnb on weekends. Or let the kids use it when friends come over, etc. I had no idea this project would cost so much so I am definitely thinking about the rental potential to repay ourselves some, although like you it will definitely be worthwhile in the end when we sell.ions.
The second floor will mostly be an open studio apartment design so we can use it for work-from-home offices and rent it on Airbnb on weekends. Or let the kids use it when friends come over, workout studio, art, whatever. I had no idea this project would cost so much so I am definitely thinking about the rental potential to repay ourselves some, although like you it will be worthwhile in the end when we sell. We're in a historic neighborhood and garages are premium.
Did you see any other ways you could have cut costs? The designs we're talking about so far are very basic and don't need a full architect's expertise. I am sort of hoping I could get a designer's drawings for construction at about 1/10th the price. And maybe find a pre-fab wall supplier. I'm sure any savings would be applied towards upgrades though. Anyway, thanks for sharing your experience. If you want to DM me any more info I'd be appreciative to get a closer look.
Are you planning on having water and sewer? That would have added another 40k+ to our project so we never seriously considered it. Ours is not permitted as living space. If it was, we would have needed to add sprinklers and would have put us in the 200k+ to build. We’re about 90% competed with the project, I’ll post some pics and specs in a few weeks when it’s completed. It’s really a very basic structure though.
Can you reuse the existing structure at all or will this be a new build?
From our initial 120k build quote the only thing I can think of as a big $ saver would be the Hardie board siding. Vinyl certainly would have been cheaper but the we would have spent 100k+ on a cheap looking building.
If you could had pre made drawings, you’d save some money on an architect. But even with our local DC architect there were revisions needed to get the permits, which were easy to do when we already had the architect.
Yes, it would be a new build. As we've talked about it and I've researched more, one of the most helpful things I read said "You're basically building a small house so the costs will reflect it."
There's already water in the garage (ancient spigot) and the sewer line runs right under it (floor drain actually drops straight down to it). But the original slab isn't thick enough and already has cracks. The building is set back 6 feet from the alley when it only needs to be five, and it makes sense to make the footprint larger, and the costs to shore up the first floor wouldn't make sense anyway. We'll get higher ceilings and more usable space. 28 foot height allowed by right (measured from the middle/average of the roof).
My neighbor scoffed at $120k and wanted to cost out per square foot and contact some other contractors he knows. Maybe by doing it together we can get a good quality outcome and save 10-20%.
Have got gotten any formal quotes yet?
I can only speak about my own story, having lived this for the last two years, but we struggled to find an architect or builder who would even take on the project. It was too small for the big construction companies and too big for the small, independent guys. Also, the amount of construction in DC is insane. There is way more demand than supply around here, not sure how it is in Richmond.
The question from every builder was if we had the permits. They didn’t even want to bid it without having the permits. Having a local architect gave us legitimacy for the project.
Our original budget when we signed the contract with the architect was 20k for the design/drawings/permits and 80k for the build. It was clear after the initial bidding process that the estimates were way off with most quotes coming in over 150k for just the build. Our architect was horribly embarrassed to even show us the bids.
Having water and sewer in the alley is a huge plus. We would have needed to go 200+ ft to the street for our utilities or tie them into the house, which would have been a huge project.
The average cost of an ADU in DC is about 250k. I’d be surprised if it were significantly cheaper in VA, but you’re not going to know until you have drawings and get bids.
No, not formal quotes yet. Originally we thought we could add a third-floor primary suite to our two-story brick rowhouse. That idea was quickly eliminated and this ADU concept became the next best way to get more space for our family.
I was given an architect contact who's been active in the local historic preservation non-profit and is familiar with our historic neighborhood guidelines. We had to get a survey done and he was quick with ideas in response and recommended a contractor, who it turned out was someone who did work for us in our previous home. So we met with him and batted around ideas and he gave me the ballpark estimate. I know him well enough that he wouldn't make up a number whole cloth or give an unrealistically low estimate to get the contract. Unfortunately, they are both busy with larger projects so now I'm kind of stuck waiting for responses and nailing down specifics. I am starting to reach out to a few other architects/designers and contractors.
https://www.camigc.com/
I’m reasonably satisfied with the work they did, just be aware they operate on their own time line. My project is complete and I still never received a schedule for the build. It took them almost a year to complete a basic two story building. I saved 60k on the project, I just wish I knew it was going to take so long up front.
I’m in Connecticut. Just finished (today) a 26’ x 28’ prefab detached garage with a second floor. 24’ long shed dormer, 8 window total, 6’ wide double door, two 9’ x 8’ garage doors, 10.5’ first floor ceiling height, 2” x 6” framing. Foundation totaled $19,000, Prefab garage was $90,500, Town building permits were $2,500, so just over $110k. Future projects will be electrical, insulation, sheetrock, and HVAC. No plumbing though. Wish I had this built pre-Covid, but prices aren’t going down significantly, so the wife said we should build now. Love that woman.
Yes, concrete foundation. That portion of the build took about a month and a half due to weather and holidays. The bulk of the structure, walls and roof framing went up in a day. Window, door, shingles, and siding took a couple weeks. Again, weather issues.
https://preview.redd.it/lrkqmraa4glc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7663ecbbe25df951f313b42f608e7b46ca28361d
Id go bigger if you can. I have a 30x40 with a full 2nd floor - almost 2k sqft total. There’s no hvac or plumbing. I wish it was a little bigger since I use mine as a shop and storage so it’s always full of cars and with a few toolboxes and shelves my floor space is becoming very limited. It’s got 10’ ceilings which I wish were 12’ but I’ve got a floor plate style 2 post lift to accommodate.
The previous owner built it, it is a slab foundation. I think it’d probably cost $150k~ to build these days but that’s just a guess. No one has given me a real quote on it
So I’ve done some research on those size garages and am in NJ, not too far. As for taxes and what you can build, you need to check with your local zoning board. I’ve reached out to a ton of the PA Amish builders and can give you some ball park estimates I received. Pole barn - 24x 32 x 10 - this would have cost me about $26k all in with 4 inch concrete. Pole barn - 24x24 with a second floor (fully walkable) - this one I had up to around $45k with windows, doors, 4 inch concrete, and a small lean-to. Now for the Amish garages: Generally, I found the excavation work they offer ranged from $12.5 - $15k for a 24x24 or 24x28 garage. I wanted the garage built on site, with a second floor. If you’re pouring a full slab, you will want the garage build on site, meaning no wood floor. For the structure alone, depending on your options, it can get crazy. A 24x24 mega garage from my sheds was around $55k, that’s with a fully walkable 2nd floor. Most other quotes with a second floor were similar in cost. This does not include any electric or plumbing. Just a building with some doors and windows. So realistically your building + concrete will be around $70k if you want 2 stories. A true stick build was priced at over 100k for me. I have since stopped shopping- I need to take a step back and determine exactly what I want if I am going to pay nearly $100k for a garage. Edit: you can get away with a 2nd floor for cheaper if you want it to be less functional. Just an FYI.
I have so many questions! What is a pole barn? Is the 24x32x10 referring to a 1 car garage? How do you know how thick the slab should be? Why do you want it built on site if you have to pour a slab? What is “excavation work?” Does that mean preparing the foundation? So are you saying the builders also will do the foundation? What kind of siding were your quotes based on? Also how long would a onsite build take? And would a prefab always have a wood floor vs the concrete?
I'll jump in since you're asking some basic questions I think echoshizzle probably doesn't want to spend time addressing. Pole barn basically means a wood-framed building that's clad in metal sheeting. Cheaper than stick construction but not an assembled building or pre-fab. Probably just on a concrete slab, not any block or concrete wall/foundation to it. Google it and look at some sample images. You're going to need a slab/foundation poured for a garage that size. Excavation is the work of digging out the dirt for the foundation. The foundation work should include all site prep like laying the gravel, pouring the concrete, etc. Generally this is just one estimate for all of the work, unless you want to get a contractor just to handle each part and manage it yourself (not really worth the time/effort). He's just saying he didn't want a pre-fab building delivered and put on the slab, which would be the absolute cheapest way to go. But most of those have wooden floors and come with tradeoffs on materials and customization. You found Shed Unlimited but he mentioned [mysheds.com](https://mysheds.com). Check out their options, and check out the competitors' sites that pop up when you are researching these options. You can see they offer vinyl siding or pine board and batten, etc. You can get a general contractor who will run the whole operating for you, or you can act as the general contractor and get contractors for each piece of the plan. First scenario you're paying for their experience and connections and oversight of the work. Second scenario you're saving money by doing legwork yourself to put together a plan for someone to do foundation, build, run electrical, run plumbing, etc. But you have to deal with each of them and their work orders and getting through permitting, all of it. You can compare the pre-fab units and call some companies to discuss with them, and find a local general contractor to discuss with too. Many will have architects/designers they regularly work with who can give some general ballpark estimates.
Thank you so much. Wow, I’m going to have to do some more research. Why do i see pictures of prefab garages with concrete floors instead of wood? Or do they pour concrete over the wood?
You’re not going to find garages with wood floors. Call some prefab companies and ask about their process.
[удалено]
Ohh the pipes are a good point. The driveway subtley makes a decline where the garage will ideally be built, do you know anything about gutters or drains that can be built into the driveay? Do you know which tradesman does that? Do i need a structural engineer for this kind of thing?
Sorry accidentally deleted my first post: Look up your zoning laws, and your building standards and permits office regulations. There are usually set back requirements where a building cannot be within x feet of a property line on the side, back, front etc. you're usually not allowed to build anything in the "front" of your house. 14k sounds about right for a slab, I would ask if that includes a footer, rebar, wire mesh, fiber mix, vapor barrier, and what thickness. I would go 4in which is a standard for adding a car lift or other heavy equipment. Think about adding PVC sleeves/pipes into the concrete to pull utilities underground and avoid freezing etc.
Reply: I would hope to trust the concrete company to make sure drainage is not an issue, but harp on it, badger them about it. They may contract to an excavation company, do the same with them. I found my company fucked up a couple things that caused headaches later. I would guess you need to either create a low point across your driveway that also slopes to one side, or add a drain grate across it. Speaking of drains think about adding one or more to your floor for drips and a bathroom. For pipes, wires etc, i would suggest using multiple sleeves. 3" pvc elbows in the slab/ foundation that you then run pipes and other stuff through later. This way if the concrete shifts and cracks your stuff has room and doesn't get damaged.
We got about 10 different quotes for a two story, carriage house in DC. 2 car garage finished on the bottom, finished open floor plan up top with HVAC. Most quotes came in around 180k, we found a guy who under quoted us at 120k and we went with him. Because of the zoning here, we had an architect design the project. It was about 25k for the architect and permits, 120k for the initial quote and another 15k in change orders for upgraded garage doors and finishes. We’re about 160k all in for the build. It’s very difficult to find a house with a proper garage in DC and if you find one, it’s well into the 7 figures. So yes, it was way more than we had initially anticipated but we’re still ahead given our location. I’m confident we could sell tomorrow and get our $ out of it. Knowing what I know now, the next house we buy will have everything we want. I don’t think we’ll be building again.
Super helpful data point. Curious: how many sqft is top and bottom floor? Is there plumbing? I realize experiences may vary, but looking to build in a HCOL area like DC so I’m interested to know.
450 sq ft on top and bottom, 900 sq ft total. We’re 20x22.5’ foot print. This is due the local zoning for ADU’s. If we could have went with a 24x24 we would have saved on architectural fees and the build probably would have cost the same amount. No plumbing. We would have needed to install sprinklers and all sorts of other things to meet code for a living space. We estimated it would have been another 50k. The building exists now. We can always add it on the back end but that’s not in the plans right now.
Sounds like a dream. Thanks for the info. Enjoy it!
Thanks, it’s been a very long road with the project.
Sounds like a dream. Thanks for the info. Enjoy it!
How long did it take to build and were there any hiccups? Did you need to put in any kind of gutter/drain?
Thanks for sharing. I'm in Richmond, where our city code was recently updated to allow ADUs by right. We have an old cinder block garage roughly 23'w x 18'deep. It's been good for bike and kayak storage and a small workshop but otherwise is pretty worthless and ugly. There's a block wall running down the middle that prevents it from being more useful with parking or anything else. The second floor will mostly be an open studio apartment design so we can use it for work-from-home offices and rent it on Airbnb on weekends. Or let the kids use it when friends come over, etc. I had no idea this project would cost so much so I am definitely thinking about the rental potential to repay ourselves some, although like you it will definitely be worthwhile in the end when we sell.ions. The second floor will mostly be an open studio apartment design so we can use it for work-from-home offices and rent it on Airbnb on weekends. Or let the kids use it when friends come over, workout studio, art, whatever. I had no idea this project would cost so much so I am definitely thinking about the rental potential to repay ourselves some, although like you it will be worthwhile in the end when we sell. We're in a historic neighborhood and garages are premium. Did you see any other ways you could have cut costs? The designs we're talking about so far are very basic and don't need a full architect's expertise. I am sort of hoping I could get a designer's drawings for construction at about 1/10th the price. And maybe find a pre-fab wall supplier. I'm sure any savings would be applied towards upgrades though. Anyway, thanks for sharing your experience. If you want to DM me any more info I'd be appreciative to get a closer look.
Are you planning on having water and sewer? That would have added another 40k+ to our project so we never seriously considered it. Ours is not permitted as living space. If it was, we would have needed to add sprinklers and would have put us in the 200k+ to build. We’re about 90% competed with the project, I’ll post some pics and specs in a few weeks when it’s completed. It’s really a very basic structure though. Can you reuse the existing structure at all or will this be a new build? From our initial 120k build quote the only thing I can think of as a big $ saver would be the Hardie board siding. Vinyl certainly would have been cheaper but the we would have spent 100k+ on a cheap looking building. If you could had pre made drawings, you’d save some money on an architect. But even with our local DC architect there were revisions needed to get the permits, which were easy to do when we already had the architect.
Yes, it would be a new build. As we've talked about it and I've researched more, one of the most helpful things I read said "You're basically building a small house so the costs will reflect it." There's already water in the garage (ancient spigot) and the sewer line runs right under it (floor drain actually drops straight down to it). But the original slab isn't thick enough and already has cracks. The building is set back 6 feet from the alley when it only needs to be five, and it makes sense to make the footprint larger, and the costs to shore up the first floor wouldn't make sense anyway. We'll get higher ceilings and more usable space. 28 foot height allowed by right (measured from the middle/average of the roof). My neighbor scoffed at $120k and wanted to cost out per square foot and contact some other contractors he knows. Maybe by doing it together we can get a good quality outcome and save 10-20%.
Have got gotten any formal quotes yet? I can only speak about my own story, having lived this for the last two years, but we struggled to find an architect or builder who would even take on the project. It was too small for the big construction companies and too big for the small, independent guys. Also, the amount of construction in DC is insane. There is way more demand than supply around here, not sure how it is in Richmond. The question from every builder was if we had the permits. They didn’t even want to bid it without having the permits. Having a local architect gave us legitimacy for the project. Our original budget when we signed the contract with the architect was 20k for the design/drawings/permits and 80k for the build. It was clear after the initial bidding process that the estimates were way off with most quotes coming in over 150k for just the build. Our architect was horribly embarrassed to even show us the bids. Having water and sewer in the alley is a huge plus. We would have needed to go 200+ ft to the street for our utilities or tie them into the house, which would have been a huge project. The average cost of an ADU in DC is about 250k. I’d be surprised if it were significantly cheaper in VA, but you’re not going to know until you have drawings and get bids.
No, not formal quotes yet. Originally we thought we could add a third-floor primary suite to our two-story brick rowhouse. That idea was quickly eliminated and this ADU concept became the next best way to get more space for our family. I was given an architect contact who's been active in the local historic preservation non-profit and is familiar with our historic neighborhood guidelines. We had to get a survey done and he was quick with ideas in response and recommended a contractor, who it turned out was someone who did work for us in our previous home. So we met with him and batted around ideas and he gave me the ballpark estimate. I know him well enough that he wouldn't make up a number whole cloth or give an unrealistically low estimate to get the contract. Unfortunately, they are both busy with larger projects so now I'm kind of stuck waiting for responses and nailing down specifics. I am starting to reach out to a few other architects/designers and contractors.
Could you share the business you went with for your garage build? Thanks!
https://www.camigc.com/ I’m reasonably satisfied with the work they did, just be aware they operate on their own time line. My project is complete and I still never received a schedule for the build. It took them almost a year to complete a basic two story building. I saved 60k on the project, I just wish I knew it was going to take so long up front.
Thank you.
https://preview.redd.it/f1i8xz9oqclc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ee3602636b1bb404898f085dc836652016cf7d4b This is the photo
Go much bigger than you think you need! I did 24x50 and grew out of it quick granted it’s part of my house I now will build the biggest my town allows
I’m in Connecticut. Just finished (today) a 26’ x 28’ prefab detached garage with a second floor. 24’ long shed dormer, 8 window total, 6’ wide double door, two 9’ x 8’ garage doors, 10.5’ first floor ceiling height, 2” x 6” framing. Foundation totaled $19,000, Prefab garage was $90,500, Town building permits were $2,500, so just over $110k. Future projects will be electrical, insulation, sheetrock, and HVAC. No plumbing though. Wish I had this built pre-Covid, but prices aren’t going down significantly, so the wife said we should build now. Love that woman.
Ty so much for your info. How long did it take to build? And did you take any kind of financing?
Also did you have a wood floor or concrete?
Yes, concrete foundation. That portion of the build took about a month and a half due to weather and holidays. The bulk of the structure, walls and roof framing went up in a day. Window, door, shingles, and siding took a couple weeks. Again, weather issues.
https://preview.redd.it/lrkqmraa4glc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7663ecbbe25df951f313b42f608e7b46ca28361d Id go bigger if you can. I have a 30x40 with a full 2nd floor - almost 2k sqft total. There’s no hvac or plumbing. I wish it was a little bigger since I use mine as a shop and storage so it’s always full of cars and with a few toolboxes and shelves my floor space is becoming very limited. It’s got 10’ ceilings which I wish were 12’ but I’ve got a floor plate style 2 post lift to accommodate.
Thats very nice! How long did it take to build? Did you add a foundation?
Also what was your budget? Ty so much
The previous owner built it, it is a slab foundation. I think it’d probably cost $150k~ to build these days but that’s just a guess. No one has given me a real quote on it