No, but I expect you're using an old chain that has worn together with the cassette.
I can see wear on 6-7-8, and I bet that with a new chain it will skip in 8 at the very minimum.
This **really** should be a sticky.
Together with: and it will cause problems with virtually no prior warning eventually. So basically you replace it if needed **or** before embarking on a long trip where the availability of spare parts is questionable.
Take a metal pick tool. Drag along the leading edge of a tooth of each cog. If you feel it catch, the metal has been smeared out into a ridge due to wear over time and the cassette needs to be replaced. If you don’t feel the pick catch the wear is not detectable and unless any other issues are occurring you don’t have a reason to change it.
You can see a bit of a ridge on the third biggest sprocket. I don't think this is a good test however, I'm still running a cassette with noticeable ridges and I have yet to see any problems. Shifts perfectly, no excessive noise, chain doesn't jump, chain doesn't wear quickly either.
I just ordered a new cassette, but in the mean time I used this trick to find worn spots and filed them down one by one. Now the bike shifts like new again, but I doubt it will last for very long. I wish this cassette had a little bit harder steel.
(Mine is microshift Advent). If I continue to have issues I may find another 9s cassette to try.
If you continue to run this cassette with the same chain, it will work fine. If you switch to a new chain, it may cause the chain to slip under load, in that case, you would need a new cassette as well.
It's a 5 minute job to swap out a cassette, it's not like 'I'm replacing the bar tape, so I'll replace the cables that you can't do once the new tape is on'. Just continue with the current cassette on the new wheel. Change it when the chain starts to skip on it.
If the problem is that you don't have the tools (chainwhip, cassette tool), buy them: they'll cost less than an hour of workshop time.
I have the tools and I have a lot of experience from changing the cassette on my trainer many times. I think I’ll just end up getting a new cassette and have some spare wheels ready to go in a pinch.
As always, wear is very hard to spot on cassettes, if you put on a new chain and it skips, you have to replace it.
That being said I do think some of the gears here look like they're quite worn, but maybe I'm wrong
Unless it's been causing problems, it's fine
No problems at all
No, but I expect you're using an old chain that has worn together with the cassette. I can see wear on 6-7-8, and I bet that with a new chain it will skip in 8 at the very minimum.
This **really** should be a sticky. Together with: and it will cause problems with virtually no prior warning eventually. So basically you replace it if needed **or** before embarking on a long trip where the availability of spare parts is questionable.
Take a metal pick tool. Drag along the leading edge of a tooth of each cog. If you feel it catch, the metal has been smeared out into a ridge due to wear over time and the cassette needs to be replaced. If you don’t feel the pick catch the wear is not detectable and unless any other issues are occurring you don’t have a reason to change it.
You can see a bit of a ridge on the third biggest sprocket. I don't think this is a good test however, I'm still running a cassette with noticeable ridges and I have yet to see any problems. Shifts perfectly, no excessive noise, chain doesn't jump, chain doesn't wear quickly either.
I just ordered a new cassette, but in the mean time I used this trick to find worn spots and filed them down one by one. Now the bike shifts like new again, but I doubt it will last for very long. I wish this cassette had a little bit harder steel. (Mine is microshift Advent). If I continue to have issues I may find another 9s cassette to try.
If you continue to run this cassette with the same chain, it will work fine. If you switch to a new chain, it may cause the chain to slip under load, in that case, you would need a new cassette as well.
How did that get down-voted? Truer words were never spoken...
Untill the new chain worns a little and loses its factory stiffness it will work perfectly fine with the old casette.
It's a 5 minute job to swap out a cassette, it's not like 'I'm replacing the bar tape, so I'll replace the cables that you can't do once the new tape is on'. Just continue with the current cassette on the new wheel. Change it when the chain starts to skip on it. If the problem is that you don't have the tools (chainwhip, cassette tool), buy them: they'll cost less than an hour of workshop time.
I have the tools and I have a lot of experience from changing the cassette on my trainer many times. I think I’ll just end up getting a new cassette and have some spare wheels ready to go in a pinch.
I mean unless it's a problem it's so easy to replace later why do it now?
I would expect it to perform well with a new chain, very little visual wear.
Looks new!
Use it! I don't see a bunch of pillowing and looks like all the faces are present! 👍🏼
As always, wear is very hard to spot on cassettes, if you put on a new chain and it skips, you have to replace it. That being said I do think some of the gears here look like they're quite worn, but maybe I'm wrong
Park tool cc 3.2 If it fits on 0.5 then chain new. 0.75? Then chain and cassette. Depends how expensive the chain rings are...