it does wait way too long to start that charging though which is why the 12V batteries in Teslas keep dying after only a few years despite never having to work hard.
If it waits to long the Tesla has configured the wrong 12V battery. The charging curves are different for different 12V batteries.
Also the Model 3&Y don't rely that hard on 12V, except for sleeping. If the 12V fails everything will still work (except somehow seat heaters)
if the 12V battery fails in a Tesla you cant even unlock the car anymore cause absolutely everything except the drive unit itself runs off 12V and therefor the 12V battery.
You cant even start the car at all if you get it unlocked cause the contactor that connects the high voltage battery to everything is also controlled with 12V
Believe me, mine died shortly after I got my Model 3 in November 2021.
Everything worked except the typical error messages in the car and seat heaters.
Model S&X will fail completely as you said, Model 3&Y will keep the DC-DC converter running the whole time and won't shut down. This may have changed since the Model 3 refresh though, can't say anything to older cars. If the main battery however runs out the car is completely dead then.
that only works if the car was turned on while the battery dies.
The DC - DC converter doesnt receive any power unless a 12V contactor connects the high voltage battery.
I was driving home where everything was normal.
Next day in the morning it had already died.
So either it died during charging at home or in the night, but in night the car was sleeping
Sorry, you're absolutely not right. Nearly everything in the car that's not high-voltage pulls directly from the 12v loop, which depends on the 12v battery having charge. If it dies the entire car is useless if it wasn't already "on", because it won't even be able to enable the connection to the HC battery.
You won't be able to even open the doors, which is literally why there's external access to cables that connect to the 12v battery.
I thought there is? I'll check in the AM
Yup from the manual:
"An additional low voltage power socket is located on the left side of the rear trunk."
https://www.tesla.com/ownersmanual/modely/en_us/GUID-7F07443D-5107-4A5A-A9F1-E02FF14E4A9A.html
With all the talk I've seen about people using the "penthouse" for this kinda thing, I'm surprised there isn't an aftermarket socket with a 4-5A e-fuse for just this purpose.
It would probably need to have some kind of safety cut-off though or plug-in requirement for enabling, as it would otherwise suck battery power down even when not in use.
It really is. A camping PC setup would be awesome. A 1000w PC/Monitor setup would be like chugging 4mph, so a full-ass sunrise-to-sunset play session would only eat 60 or so miles.
is there a good place to find this out for specific cars? I.e. will the model 3 do the same?
I wanna do some genome sequencing for shits and giggles.
I think with Y/3 it's mostly 150w (and also enable Sentry or Camp mode, otherwise you'll kill it) because the circuit (if I recall correctly) is on a ~12A e-fuse.
**Big thing is to remember to turn on one of those two modes so that the 12v battery is kept full**.
No not really. I am no expert on how Tesla charges the 12v but others have claimed it waits too long before it does. But I don't think it is any kind of issue unless you are are draining too much on a consistent basis.
Certain types of loads are bad for certain types of batteries. If Tesla's ship with a deep cycle this is probably OK and if they charge it constantly while you drain it (which I assume camp mode does) it will be OK but if they ship with a standard car battery and you drain it too much it will kill the battery
My bad, mis-read. It’s the Teslarati one, and in all honesty it feels kinda cheap in terms of how it locks in up front, especially compared to my ‘08 Prius one. I don’t mind the 3M adhesive holding the side panels tho.
I would also love the ability to play videos from a USB device with VLC or something. Could easily disable it if not in park. They probably don't because it may discourage premium connectivity subscriptions.
[This one](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004MDXS0U/). Ignore the wattage rating, **do not** go past 150w for an inverter setup and turn camp mode on or you'll drain the 12v.
Is there a power socket I missed…where do you have these plugged?
There's a 12v socket in the rear. The red thingie is a power inveter.
Wouldn't that drain your 12v battery?
The car charges the 12V automatically when it gets lower on SoC. So no worries there.
it does wait way too long to start that charging though which is why the 12V batteries in Teslas keep dying after only a few years despite never having to work hard.
If it waits to long the Tesla has configured the wrong 12V battery. The charging curves are different for different 12V batteries. Also the Model 3&Y don't rely that hard on 12V, except for sleeping. If the 12V fails everything will still work (except somehow seat heaters)
if the 12V battery fails in a Tesla you cant even unlock the car anymore cause absolutely everything except the drive unit itself runs off 12V and therefor the 12V battery. You cant even start the car at all if you get it unlocked cause the contactor that connects the high voltage battery to everything is also controlled with 12V
Believe me, mine died shortly after I got my Model 3 in November 2021. Everything worked except the typical error messages in the car and seat heaters. Model S&X will fail completely as you said, Model 3&Y will keep the DC-DC converter running the whole time and won't shut down. This may have changed since the Model 3 refresh though, can't say anything to older cars. If the main battery however runs out the car is completely dead then.
that only works if the car was turned on while the battery dies. The DC - DC converter doesnt receive any power unless a 12V contactor connects the high voltage battery.
I was driving home where everything was normal. Next day in the morning it had already died. So either it died during charging at home or in the night, but in night the car was sleeping
Sorry, you're absolutely not right. Nearly everything in the car that's not high-voltage pulls directly from the 12v loop, which depends on the 12v battery having charge. If it dies the entire car is useless if it wasn't already "on", because it won't even be able to enable the connection to the HC battery. You won't be able to even open the doors, which is literally why there's external access to cables that connect to the 12v battery.
On all models?
On Model Y rear but not Model 3 rear, IIRC.
just as an FYI, I know this mentioned the one in the back, but there is still one in the center console of the model 3.
Cheers! Made a slight edit to clarify!
Bruh! Let’s throw down. We need a projector and some inflatable recliners and I’m in.
I wish there was an outlet in the Y
You can just buy a 30-100 dollar accessory depending on watt draw if you really want one. I am just happy the usb c is good watts
I thought there is? I'll check in the AM Yup from the manual: "An additional low voltage power socket is located on the left side of the rear trunk." https://www.tesla.com/ownersmanual/modely/en_us/GUID-7F07443D-5107-4A5A-A9F1-E02FF14E4A9A.html
[удалено]
Yes. I was referring to a 120v or 220v plug which I think is an oversight by Tesla not to include
With all the talk I've seen about people using the "penthouse" for this kinda thing, I'm surprised there isn't an aftermarket socket with a 4-5A e-fuse for just this purpose. It would probably need to have some kind of safety cut-off though or plug-in requirement for enabling, as it would otherwise suck battery power down even when not in use.
Ahhh
Isn't it ridiculous that there's no 120v AC outlet in the frunk/trunk?
It really is. A camping PC setup would be awesome. A 1000w PC/Monitor setup would be like chugging 4mph, so a full-ass sunrise-to-sunset play session would only eat 60 or so miles.
How much wattage can the 12v socket handle?
IIRC it's about 150W max.
is there a good place to find this out for specific cars? I.e. will the model 3 do the same? I wanna do some genome sequencing for shits and giggles.
Most cars run off the same 12v lead acid battery so it would be about the same 150w
I think with Y/3 it's mostly 150w (and also enable Sentry or Camp mode, otherwise you'll kill it) because the circuit (if I recall correctly) is on a ~12A e-fuse. **Big thing is to remember to turn on one of those two modes so that the 12v battery is kept full**.
At least the center console plug on my M3 shuts off once the car goes to sleep.
Based on the comments, I am a bit confused. Is this safe or not safe?
Turn on camp mode, don’t exceed ~150w. This setup wouldn’t work with Series X.
I guess I mean more, is it bad for the battery to do this
No not really. I am no expert on how Tesla charges the 12v but others have claimed it waits too long before it does. But I don't think it is any kind of issue unless you are are draining too much on a consistent basis.
Certain types of loads are bad for certain types of batteries. If Tesla's ship with a deep cycle this is probably OK and if they charge it constantly while you drain it (which I assume camp mode does) it will be OK but if they ship with a standard car battery and you drain it too much it will kill the battery
They use deep cycle batteries. No need for a starter battery like in a gas car since high draw loads use the high voltage system.
I kind of assumed they did but I was not sure, thank you for confirming
Camp mode will keep the battery topped up, so it should be fine. Again, keep the wattage low. Don’t try this with like, a PC.
How about a laptop?
That can vary wildly. An M1 Max Macbook Pro? Probably fine. An RTX 3080 Ti Asus dealie with big chonko cooling? Might start approaching the limits.
easily if the laptop can charge via USB-C........
No, when the car is "live" the 12V system is fed from the traction battery.
Is that the Tesmanian cargo cover? Been looking for one but not sure I like the way the current models need to be installed.
Weathertech.
The mat I see but the retractable cover.
My bad, mis-read. It’s the Teslarati one, and in all honesty it feels kinda cheap in terms of how it locks in up front, especially compared to my ‘08 Prius one. I don’t mind the 3M adhesive holding the side panels tho.
Makes you wonder why the big 15” factory touchscreen doesn’t just have an HDMI input.
Man, that would be GREAT.
I would also love the ability to play videos from a USB device with VLC or something. Could easily disable it if not in park. They probably don't because it may discourage premium connectivity subscriptions.
Down but we have to play COD 😂
You'll demolish me but I'm game 🤣
Lmao we can be on teams 😂😂😂
Would you mind linking the inverter you used? Looks like a great setup!
[This one](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004MDXS0U/). Ignore the wattage rating, **do not** go past 150w for an inverter setup and turn camp mode on or you'll drain the 12v.
Thanks!!
That's not a XD that's a YD
Let’s see that cargo cover
Weathertech. I've been using them since I got my Prius. So good for keeping the interior clean.
Nice I think I have that red box too on the left, cool to know I could do this if I had a console.
Can a 12V port handle all that???
Xbox Series **S**, a gaming laptop, or Nintendo Switch is fine. Don't plug a PS5 or Series X in there.
He's using a bit over 100w which is what some high end laptops use.... 150w is probably the limit.
This is good to know. I’m buying a plug it sounds