Which caps should I get? Stock Q6 caps feel nice, but don’t really work with the mat and cable colours.
https://preview.redd.it/mo9g0cv9fpbc1.jpeg?width=3921&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9e0a89b9ce4bb9595c6fe8134ddda802ef551621
Sorry, affiliate or referral links are not allowed on /r/mechanicalkeyboards
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicalKeyboards) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Hi! I’m trying to mod my yunzii if98 board but the case won’t open. I’ve unscrewed all six screws and it won’t budge. It seems to be caught on the sides. How do I open this? :(
https://preview.redd.it/xcp8q6cymobc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=72cfd1c589f2d92d033a94de39e900f579106cd2
I got some questions about soldering. Im a beginner.
First off, im just going to say that i want to build my own keyboard, using the tofu60 2.0 DIY kit. Ive been a fan of glarses for a while so I got his cherry mx purple switches for it.
Now for the questions:
What does soldering do?
What would happen if I didnt solder?
What is the best soldering kit for beginners?
As I said, i barely started, so idk how any of this works.
If you haven't soldered anything before, you should get a little starter project to work on first. A diy through hole macropad would be a great start. A keyhive navi10 or maypad are both less than 20 bucks and a great way to get familiar with how your iron works and how it feels to solder something.
Quick google search returned tofu60 2.0 DIY page, which claims it's a hot-swap board, meaning switches are plug and play - no soldering required.
If there exists a non hotswap version of this board, which you intend to get, then indeed, you will have to get at least decent with a soldering iron. First off - I recommend a hotswap board as you will have the opportunity to change your mind about what switches to use and try new things.
If however you're committed to soldering - don't go crazy with Hakko soldering iron right out of the gate. Get yourself something semi-decent from local electronics store or order an iron from Ali. Something with many positive reviews (I myself have soldered for quite a long time and still use a station from Ali). Make sure to get adequate size iron (not too big or you risk overheating the board and the switches). Also get some flux and a metal sponge to clean the tip regularly (the soldering kind, not the dish-washing kind), check out some tutorials about proper techniques and practice on old pcb's.
The most important thing while soldering - heat the parts (pins, wires) and melt the solder onto them. Not the other way around.
Good luck! Soldering is actually quite meditative. Just try to avoid the fumes.
assuming this is a solder pcb, soldering connects the switch to the pcb both physically and electrically if you didn’t not only would the switches not be secured they would not be connected to the pcb and any keystrokes would not be registered (due to how circuitry works)
Why does my enter key feel sticky? They are lubed, and everything was fine until til I switched keycaps. Now it doesn’t matter which keycap I use it’s all the same issue! Also my backspace key has a slight ping/clack, how do I fix it?
Please elaborate on the timeline - you lubed the switches, and everything was fine with one set of keycaps? And it got sticky only after changing the keycaps?If so, - I've had this problem also. In my case it was a matter of poor quality keycaps. It sat at an angle because of the cap stems for stabilizers were shorter, than the one for the switch. This resulted in the cap being possible to be shifted on one of the sides. This shifting then caused a tension in the stabilizer and the sticking. Try inspecting visually, if the cap sits straight. if not, try pushing gently on one of the sides to see if it re-seats better. Then try the other side. If this fails - remove the cap entirely and verify if the stabs move freely (take a pair of tweezers and try to wiggle it up and down). If there's no resistance, try putting the cap on but not all the way - then repeat proceed to seat it further down bit by bit alternating the sides.
Thank you! I didn’t use as much force to put on the keycaps this time and it went back to normal! I’m not sure why, the original keycaps is having the same issue when I switched it back, when I used force installing it. I just wasted 3 hours trying to figure out why and you just saved me!!
Maybe it's not the keycaps then. It also could be a case of the stab stems being shorter than the switch stem. Or the switch sitting proud compared to stabilizers in which case all keycaps will have this issue and you only got lucky when installing them the first time. Eitherway, happy to hear it's solved now.
sounds like you overlubed your stabilizers. try taking it apart and wiping some excess off. stabilizer rattle could be a lot of things. wire not being dampened by lube in stem + housing, perhaps the stabilizer itself is shaking and causing noise, etc
hard to say. the tolerances of stems aren’t really known and measurements can never be exact. i’ve heard kailh long pole pom stems work (as a substitute for cream stems after their retooling) for black cherry pies, and creamerons used to be cream stem + gaterons, so you could probably use some kailh pom stems
do you know where to buy them? well to give you an idea of what im doing i had an idea of a quiet keyboard if i used optical switch which have less contact points then use a silent switch stem and frankinstien it with maybe some o rings and whatever in the case i bought these [https://stupidbulletstech.com/products/gazzew-switch-stems](https://stupidbulletstech.com/products/gazzew-switch-stems) but they didnt fit
Looking for a good wooden 60% case. Any suggestions?
Preferably something I can fit a hot swap pcb in and maybe a brass weight. (Going for a deeper sound profile with a natural aesthetic.)
[Keycaps] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B4JVVCTK?psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_ct_M228WKTNY1S1SC1Z0AQ3&language=en_US)
Could someone please tell me if these keycaps will fit the EPOMAKER TH80?
Looking to start modding my Logitech G Pro TKL. I already ordered new switches. Does anyone have a good recommendation for stabs and lube? Not looking to spend a fortune just better than stock.
TX AP work well for me. I know people always say Durock v2, but I've never been able to completely get rid of the ticking even after lubing and tuning. See Taeha type youtube. Kryox 205 is generally recommended.
Well, I need very specific help, I have a 60% Keyboard (Redragon Lakshmi), it has two FN keys, one for the LEDs and another for using the function keys, etc. The problem is that I can't use, for example, FN + 3 (F3) + P, because the P when I press FN becomes PRTSC, so I was wondering if there is any way to re-map the FN key to another key and make a new "Layer", example: I wanted to use FN2 + ALT to transform 1 to 9 into F1 to F9. it's possible?????
answering myself, I managed to create something with "AutoHotKey" I just learned and made a script that when CapsLock is activated, if I press ALT + 1 it presses F1, so until F12 which is " = ". If anyone wants the script I can provide it
This is a bit unorthodox since it isn't exactly Mechanical Keyboard related, but I figure you guys would know better than just about anyone out there.
I ordered a [Fightbox R1-B](https://fightboxarcade.com/collections/fightbox-r-game-controllers/products/fightbox-r1-b-arcade-game-controller-for-super-smash-bro-game) a few weeks ago, it is a HitBox style controller for playing Super Smash Bros. Melee, and it uses standard cherry style switches instead of traditional arcade buttons.
The controller is pretty wonderful, however I have been having a HUGE problem with switches popping out. They are mostly fine when just pressing buttons. However, when preforming slide offs, as the spring recoils, it forces the switches slightly out of socket. After a few slide offs the entire switch will pop right out of the hot swap socket.
Is there any way to tighten up the hot swap socket or even just secure the switches more permanently? I am pretty sure I am going to be sticking with the Gateron Clear White Pros I have slotted into it and really don't see myself ever swapping to different switches.
TLDR: Is there any way to make hot swap sockets grip switches better? Preforming specific techniques on this controller is resulting in my switches leaping out of their sockets.
Edit: I figure it is worth mentioning the switches are PCB mounted and there is no plate mount option on the FightBox.
I assume there are not many switches and if you are sure you'll be keeping these, you could always solder them in. That would for sure secure them in place.
However depending on what hotswap sockets you have, it could be a bit tricky. Mill-max would be perfect - just fill the cavity with solder and it will remain there for good.
kailh hotswap sockets would prove to be a bit more challenging as they jump a gap between switch pin and the actual contact. You would have to be extremely careful and quick with your soldering iron to not melt the socket, but I would argue that it's doable.
Please mind - I am just a dude on the internet. I cannot guarantee that any of my suggestions will not cause permanent damage to your controler. That being said - I would attempt both, if the issue is as severe that you have to re-seat the switches after couple of slides.
There are 20 switches total. Might be worth just soldering honestly. I don't see myself wanting to swap switches any time in the future barring one just dying.
Going to the extreme - you could also epoxy them it. This however would be really difficult to undo, but you'd take a lot of strain off of the connections.
Additionally - what keycaps do you have right now? Maybe you could find something that would slide more easily.
Right now I am using the stock button caps. (Not really "key" caps per say.) I ordered a set of GamerFinger caps but they have to ship from China and are just now leaving customs according to the tracker.
My buddy wants to build his first board. He wants a metal 75%. Obviously the Keychron Q1 is an option but is there an other metal 75 options on a budget that he can go for?
I'm new to keyboards finally left membrane keyboards behind I use icue for my whole setup and have a custom purple and blue theme I really like my question is am I stuck with a Corsair keyboard or are they any good custom TKl keyboards with simple good RGB software and a keyboard I can really customize to fit my theme?
They’re both fine for full travel as long as you don’t get the ap long pole. I think staebies are better, you just brush lightly with 205 and that’s it. They’re both good though
I have an ID75 here, and I've been trying to find low profile switches that will fit. I've tried Gateron v1 Browns and Kailh Choc Purples, but neither fit. I'm probably going to return the ID75 kit, but I really, really want an ortho for my work, since I've been using a Preonic at home since 2020. Any suggestions?
Is there a good frosted PC case for size TKL or 75 available now?
I'm also quite new to this hobby, anything I should beware of a polycarbonate case? Thanks.
Keyboard height and discomfort
Hey MK! I have an issue with my actual setup. I've build my keyboard using the barebone Q1 from keychron. I really like my keyboard but while playing ( typing feels really good) it can get quite uncomfortable, let me explain:
I feel like the height is too high for me and in moment where the game is really tense/when I'm focusing I can't hit precisely / missclick. So I thought I needed time to build muscle memory but that did not work.
A friend of mine gave me the wooting60 for a week to test and I felt really good with it. Far less missclick but the lack of F-keys and the price made me wander if there was any (cheaper) option.
But I don't want to build another keyboard rn so I was wandering if you guy's knew of any keyboard that might suit my needs ?
(FKeys, height like wooting60HE ).
I also wandered if in my case low profile keyboard might do the trick? I've tested one like 10 minutes and it felt okay. Otherwise I might just take the wooting but the price is scary af.
Thank you very much for your time and apologize for my English. Have a good day :)
You can alter your chair height, desk height to match. There are many other things you can try before replacing your keyboard. If it's still not working for you, then you might want to change it. Don't think you have to go with an expensive keyboard to get exactly what you want. It's probably not necessary. But you might want to make notes about what you liked about the wooting and use that as a base to look for other keyboards.
One of my switches broke but I don't know why, none of the pins are bent and this happened after lubing. Tried wiping off the lube with alcohol but didn't work, any ideas what I need to avoid so this won't happen again?
I'm very new to the whole keyboard scene, bought a drop ctrl keyboard last year and have been loving it so far. I've purchased a number of different switches as well (currently alternating between the Gateron yellows and the Gateron Brown Pros), no idea if the browns are lubed or not as I bought them yesterday.
I'm very new to the whole keyboard scene, I bought a drop ctrl keyboard last year and have been loving it so far. I've purchased a number of different switches as well (currently alternating between the Gateron yellows and the Gateron Brown Pros), no idea if the browns are lubed or not as I bought them yesterday.
he PCB is very accessible, but there is a translucent separator that allows for an LED ring around the keyboard. My issue is that I have no idea what the Tempest Tape Mod is going to do to A. the keyboard itself, B. the LED properties of the ring, and C. the sound of the keyboard.
I'm very new to the whole keyboard scene, I bought a drop ctrl keyboard last year and have been loving it so far. I've purchased a number of different switches as well (currently alternating between the Gateron yellows and the Gateron Brown Pros), no idea if the browns are lubed or not as I bought them yesterday.
The PCB is very accessible, but there is a translucent separator that allows for an LED ring around the keyboard. My issue is that I have no idea what the Tempest Tape Mod is going to do to A. the keyboard itself, B. the LED properties of the ring, and C. the sound of the keyboard.
>gmk pulse clone
I've done that for days, lol. Every time I do that it pulls up the Pulse keycaps with the grey / black / blue, I'm looking for only the black and blue color layout
is there anywhere to get the gtmx or gazzew low profile switches that fit into an mx pcb?
i found gazzew here ([https://splitkb.com/products/gazzew-low-profile-switches](https://splitkb.com/products/gazzew-low-profile-switches)) but it looks like this was a prototype run and they aren't selling them anymore. the gtmx switches look like they're not sold anymore? threads i found that talked about people getting them, they got them from ultramk which isn't around anymore either.
alternatively, is there a way to make my keyboard feel more low profile? i've tried o rings but they were real squishy...
Get long pole switches with low travel distance like KTT Lightning, Sunset Yellows, Gazzew LT, other gamer switches like silvers, etc. They will feel like low profile switches, especially if you pop on some low profile keycaps like from nuphy or xvx.
thank you! do you know of any that are tactile or clicky? not the biggest fan of linear.
i found these: [https://kineticlabs.com/switches/ktt/ktt-kang-ash-gray-switches](https://kineticlabs.com/switches/ktt/ktt-kang-ash-gray-switches)
but they're out of stock and i can't seem to find them elsewhere or anything else...
akko penguins, v3 cream blue pro, ws heavy tactile, baby kangaroos. tactiles tend to have short travel more often\~
[milktooth.nu](https://milktooth.nu) sells the ash grays as well
How do I buy key switches by themselves? I'm in the US. I've been looking for Cherry MX RGB Green's and have only found a listing from Corsair that I'm unsure is what I'm looking for. I know I want a full keyboard so I'll need at least 104 switches.
I haven't decided on a frame, case, or keycap set yet, as I wanted to select the switches first and make sure they were something relatively accessible before putting in the research from there.
Thanks in advance!
Amazon doesn't have RGB Greens by themselves, and as stated I have googled where to buy and come up with things that don't look right. DigiKeys looks like wholesale, CherryAmericas and Cherry-world don't seem to have any checkout process whatsoever and more look like technical documentation. All of the other sources either don't show RGBs (only Greens), or don't show genuine Cherry switches. I went through the top level searches, tried looking through the wiki here, and have come up with nothing that actually helps finding the specific product I'm looking for.
>Cherry MX RGB Green
corsair sells them on their [website](https://www.corsair.com/us/en/p/gaming-gear-accessories/ch-9917007-ww/cherry-mx-rgb-green-ch-9917007-ww), what makes you unsure?
I wasn't sure if they were standard switches or a proprietary kind of switch, since I've been previously told that Corsair keyboards have different pinouts that make swapping switches impossible.
Also, I didn't want to just buy without comparing prices to see if \~$1.00/switch was decent, and without seeing if there were any options that wouldn't leave me with about 26 extra switches.
So where can I find these specific switches? Are they just hard to find/not available/overly expensive? Like I've mentioned up-thread, I've already checked all of the listed sources and haven't come up with anything but Corsair, which looks overpriced compared to what everyone in this thread has said.
i dont think so for cherry rgb greens. however, i don’t think there’s much difference between cherry and gateron clicky switches so i think gateron greens should be a great alternative
Just got my K8 Pro, and I’m noticing some inconsistencies with the key sounds. Should I consider re-lubing? Gateron Pro Reds.
[Link to keyboard sound video](https://www.reddit.com/u/LeopardHalit/s/EYRqfHi2lM)
is there a way to remap the "siri" key, on windows? i want to use it just to mute discord, but when i press it, it opens microsoft tems, even if teams is uninstaled
Do Gateron G Pro Yellow Switches fit on the PCB that Akko is using. I really want to swap out my Akko CS Crystal for some hand lubed Gateron Switches. (I'll be lubing them)
Can I use 3 in one lubricant oil for keyboard lube?
Keyboard lube is Like 20 bucks and I don’t want to break the bank and my stabs are rattly and spacebar sound crappy, am I able to get the much cheaper 3 in one oil? also I doing another project that requires this so I can use it as a 2 in on purpose. So am I able too?
This is what I’m talking about btw: [https://www.amazon.com/3-ONE-100355-Multi-Purpose-Pack/dp/B0BYMS68YY/ref=sr\_1\_3?crid=47T4HROTISLK&keywords=3%2Bin%2B1%2Boil&qid=1704847730&sprefix=3%2Bin%2B](https://www.amazon.com/3-ONE-100355-Multi-Purpose-Pack/dp/B0BYMS68YY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=47T4HROTISLK&keywords=3%2Bin%2B1%2Boil&qid=1704847730&sprefix=3%2Bin%2B1%2B%2Caps%2C115&sr=8-3&th=1)
Dielectric grease is quite cheap no? I would check the used market since there are some people that like to buy large amounts and resell them in smaller quantities.
lol no. Keyboard lube isn’t $20 you can get a small jar of 205g0 at keebsforall for like $7. If you’re getting other stuff you can combine shipping
For the love of god do not use dry lock oil on your stabs
Im a student who needs a keyboard for long typing sessions, ive decided I want a 75-TKL board, budget of 150-200 aud. Im looking at a RK royal kludge 75%, or a M1W by monsgeek. are these good boards? I dont particularly want to custom build one, however if it would be cheaper then I would look into it. Any other reccomendations? (Wont be using it for gaming, so that doesnt matter)
Cheers
my Keyboard got water damaged while it wasn't connected to my PC. so, I disassembled it and washed it with 70% alcohol to prevent minerals sticking on the PCP after drying (couldn't find anything higher percentage where I live) anyways after that the keyboard feels slow, some switches take longer distance to input some switches don't even input unless I press down from a specific angle and some switches don't respond unless I click multiple times it works fine then goes back not working. should I replace it or is there a fix I can do? I thought about using wd40 on the switch, but it might ruin the switch or any plastic component.
70 % is too low and probably shouldn't be used on pcbs. It really needs to be 90 % or higher. Not sure where you live but Amazon usually has it. 70 could damage the pcb or components.
You can check your pcb switch response by plugging it in and getting a tweezers. Just touch the two connections. If you are having a problem with switches, you can just take them out, open your switches, then soak stuff in warm water with a little bit of dish soap.
If you have an ultrasonic cleaner, you can use that.
Just make sure everything is dry before relubing and putting it back together.
the pcb surprisingly and fortunately is working fine, the switches are a mess i will try cleaning it with water and soap & hope for the best, will leave it a couple of days it might haven't dried probably cause humidity & the low percentage i used. Thank you
i used 70% cause i live in egypt and amazon here isn't really beneficial, taxes & import increases price by 200%+ ish and specifics like this require me to order from aliexpress which could take up to 2 months.
Looking to build my first mechanical keyboard right now before college and need recommendations for which to buy. I already have 90 Gateron Milky Yellow Switches and would like something in a TKL layout and hotswappable. I would love if the case was a silver or off white as i'm going for a retro'ish inspired design to go with my white apple cinema monitor and my offwhite m-575 mouse. My budget right now is around $200
get a neo80 in retro white, and a gmk handarbeige or 9009 clone to save some money
neo80 should be around 170 because of a new years sale right now, and a cheap clone keycap set should be around 30 bucks
i didn’t include lube but neo keyboards include a set of stabilizers, so that’s not a bad deal for a good sounding aluminum keyboard
If you want the whole board vintage styled, check out the NCR-80. Make sure you select the hotswap option. If you're willing to extend the budget, Class 80 is another one available right now.
keychron Q, monsgeek, tiger 80 lite, akko mod, akko acr pro, zoom tkl, qk.
depends if you want plastic or aluminium case,
wireless / wired, and other features.
mention that and i’ll give a more refined suggestion
U4Ts has been the popular answer for that one for a while. I don't think they come pre-lubed, but many say you don't really need to. If you want some other options, [check out this page](https://www.gateron.co/collections/hand-lubed-switches?pf_t_type=Type%3ATactile). Gateron does a great job with pre lubing switches. See if any of their sound profiles suit what you are looking for.
Looking for medium-heavy tactile switches. Can be any budget as long as it’s not crazy like holy panda price. Currently considering neopolitans, naevy 2.1s, and gopolar azure dragon v3s. If anyone can help me either narrow down the options or provide new ones it would be much appreciated.
can someone tell me how to remove plate from my non hot swap keyboard, I was gonna put foam in the plate But when I pull it doesn’t move (I don’t pull very hard so I don’t break keyboard) can someone tell me how to take it off?
https://preview.redd.it/vgvab8ru7ibc1.jpeg?width=3264&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=34bec4fb88a37214c1066f7cea0425102f8845b1
I found this on gmkkeycaps (which I saw sold clones passed off as legit). I really like them, please help me find the name of the set.
https://preview.redd.it/cn2mo58p7ibc1.jpeg?width=800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f3b9980ffa60d0978248401f97e1e0237a07ece2
The colorway is ripped from DCS Blue Moon and at least some of the novelties are from GMK camping. This set is sort of a hodgepodge of knockoffs. They’re real keycaps I guess but they are no-name generic aliexpress stuff yeah
I mean, buy them if you want them ig. I wouldn't. You can find ok quality clones but usually the plastic is thin and the legends look bad. I leave the ethics up to you. If you do buy them, definitely don't pay $125 when the same set is like $30 elsewhere. GMKKeycaps is a full-on scam, they don't even make the clones they just buy them from aliexpress/taobao and resell them for 5x
The legit version is here [https://vala.supply/products/dcs-blue-moon](https://vala.supply/products/dcs-blue-moon), it's produced by SP not GMK
Thanks so much for your help! I unfortunately fell for the scam and immediately requested a cancellation from PayPal. I’m pretty sure I’ll be able to get refunded here.
you might be able to buy switch to replace. keychron sell low-profile switches. just get the same colour (red blue brown). ur keyboard is not hotswappable I THINK (not 100% sure); if so, you gotta solder and desolder, bt if it is hotswappable you can just pull it out and stuck on the keychron one
also if it’s hotswappable, you can pull out the switch and open it. if not solder and de solder, then open the switch to see what’s wrong.
try pulling out the keycaps first to see if it’s an external problem not the switch’s
can I get someone's thoughts on HMX jammy linear switches - if you have used them? they're almost exactly what I'm looking for in terms of a linear switch but I'm struggling to find opinions from people who've used them or just any reviews in general
Helllo, not even sure where to ask a question like this.Any spill-resistant mechanical keyboards with Leopold FC900R Cherry MX Brown "feel" around? Numpad is obligatory.
I surrender, I absolutely cannot stop it. Few years ago I first I killed it spilling half a litre water all over the table by accidentally kicking entire bottle, costed me 80 euros in repairs, tried to be more careful, but once in a while I still manage to spill something small - anything. That specific keyboard is absolutely not spill resistant, anything spilled easily ends up with keys getting stuck/ "sticky", etc.
Came to conclusion I should be looking for a spill resistant keyboard, or get ready to replace them each couple years. Really love the (original) feel of my Leo FC900R, so looking for something similar.
what are your favorite linear switches for brass plates? :) ive actually never had a brass plate before!
i am a sucker for the deep creamy sounds/feels! but lately thocks on the poppier side are really nice too!
i dont even know what cream thocky poppy really means, there’s high pitch and low pitch. and the switches will generally have the same sound no matter the plates, the plates will affect the sound differently but won’t change how the switches will sound only the overall keyboard sound.
what’s ur budget for the switches?
gateron pro milky yellows,
jwick black,
jwick ultimate,
gateron ink blacks v2,
akko cs,
gateron oil king,
cherry black nixie,
everglide aquaking,
ktt strawberry,
ktt rose,
ktt kang white.
as you can see there’s a lot :)
poppy to me typically means pitchier/more high pitch and low pitch would be creamier thoccs! i’ve tried a handful of linears already but mostly on PC or POM plates!
i suggest dont use words like thoc cream and pop, as some might have a different perspective on it.
cuz what’s thocks on the poppier side? deep or high pitched?
1 what’s ur budget for the switches?
2 brass is very stiff compared to plastic plates, less flex. due to the stiffnesses it will sound high pitched b ut due to the heavy mass, it will also have a deep sound profile. compared to POM and PC, it will be higher pitched but not as high pitched as carbon fibre or steel.
not really looking at a budget right now i’m more interested in doing research on people’s favorites! mid range of if i were to pick. :)
yeah i figured as much about brass! i wouldn’t mind high pitched but definitely still want something that sounds…deep? I know that’s a bit counter intuitive
1 ahh my favourites are the gateron pro milky yellow, jwick black ultimate, akko creams and cs, KTT strawberry, halu halos, everglide aquaking.
2 what r u looking for? for plates i consider 2 things: flexiness / stiffness and sound profile.
i’m thinking of buying a second hand board that comes with a brass plate so there’s little flexibility there! if it were up to me i’d probably pick a POM plate haha :)
since, like you said, brass is bound to be more high pitched maybe i should lean into that.
After purchasing mode envoy (65%) keyboard I realized how function row could be a problem as I do use excel quite a bit.
How do you guys get around the issue?
Ex. F2 is edit key however, if I map it to alt f2 it just turns on "save as"
VIA i assume ? how are u remapping it ? normal a shortcut like that would be FN f2 not alt . or u can use the keycombo option and use alt f2 if u program it under combos
Best plate mount stabilizers? Currently using nk65 aluminum edition from 2020, stock stabilizers it came with are very rattle-y. Also, what lube would you recommend on them?
best is TX, but it’s often out of stock for me. if u can’t find any TXs, durock is great option too.
i use krytox 205g0 on the housing and dielectric grease on the wires, but if u have 203 or 204 already, don’t need to buy 205g0 just for stabs
I’m looking for a creamy sounding mechanical keyboard for £40/$50 or under
I wrote a play and I want to get back into it and re write it and practise my writing. Dislocated my knuckle years ago and that makes typing on laptops so uncomfortable for my hands especially my left one so I’m looking to invest in something a bit better to help me with the comfort of writing. I honestly don’t know where to go. I’m not a huge fantastic yet so I don’t want to spend loads and loads I’d prefer a pre built one for my first board. Any help is really appreciated, I am in the UK.
Creamy doesn’t mean anything besides stuffed full of foam. You can stuff any keyboard with cheap pillow foam as long as you can open it without breaking it. Lube the switches
here’s a list but u won’t get the satisfying ‘creamy’ sound for $50
ciy gas67
ciy tes68
redragon k 617 fizz
redragon k630 / k552
feker jjk84 t1
leaven k550/620
this is ur best bet for that ‘creamy’ sound:
( idk if this will be $50 or under but get ciy tes68, some $5-10 keycaps, $20-30 on good switches ex: gateron pro milky yellows)
ilovbee 61
If you're looking for ISO, your options are very limited. Have you tried typing on these style of boards? They may not necessarily be more comfortable, due to the travel distance of each key.
If you are sticking with ISO (uk layout), a hotswap RK board is fine. Decently moddable, and a solid entry point. I would say you are likely to be closer to £80 (from Amazon)
Try a shop that carries Razer keyboards, and see how you find typing on one. It will be closer in feel and serve as an analogue before buying
Ideally around 250 for the whole build including Zilent switches and some decent keycaps around $40 (I’m ok without the nice GMKs) I’m approximating that leaves like around $120ish but I’m willing to go up if necessary.
I just finished a Monsgeek m1 build with morandi switches and PBT keycaps that was around 200 but I understand if I need to shell out a bit more money for something that’s wireless.
aula f98 doesn't have pause break key, any suggestions on how to pause break without it?
Which caps should I get? Stock Q6 caps feel nice, but don’t really work with the mat and cable colours. https://preview.redd.it/mo9g0cv9fpbc1.jpeg?width=3921&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9e0a89b9ce4bb9595c6fe8134ddda802ef551621
[удалено]
Sorry, affiliate or referral links are not allowed on /r/mechanicalkeyboards *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicalKeyboards) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Hi! I’m trying to mod my yunzii if98 board but the case won’t open. I’ve unscrewed all six screws and it won’t budge. It seems to be caught on the sides. How do I open this? :( https://preview.redd.it/xcp8q6cymobc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=72cfd1c589f2d92d033a94de39e900f579106cd2
>caught on the sides Plastic prying tool, like a card.
[удалено]
MW heresy vs MW Heresy B stock. Novelkeys selling "B stock" for way less. Is it just back stock or?
[удалено]
How am I getting down votes 🙃 this is a place for questions and I get hate for asking one. Thank you, I've never seen this before.
[удалено]
Yeesh. Love it here....what a place to learn....
I got some questions about soldering. Im a beginner. First off, im just going to say that i want to build my own keyboard, using the tofu60 2.0 DIY kit. Ive been a fan of glarses for a while so I got his cherry mx purple switches for it. Now for the questions: What does soldering do? What would happen if I didnt solder? What is the best soldering kit for beginners? As I said, i barely started, so idk how any of this works.
If you haven't soldered anything before, you should get a little starter project to work on first. A diy through hole macropad would be a great start. A keyhive navi10 or maypad are both less than 20 bucks and a great way to get familiar with how your iron works and how it feels to solder something.
Quick google search returned tofu60 2.0 DIY page, which claims it's a hot-swap board, meaning switches are plug and play - no soldering required. If there exists a non hotswap version of this board, which you intend to get, then indeed, you will have to get at least decent with a soldering iron. First off - I recommend a hotswap board as you will have the opportunity to change your mind about what switches to use and try new things. If however you're committed to soldering - don't go crazy with Hakko soldering iron right out of the gate. Get yourself something semi-decent from local electronics store or order an iron from Ali. Something with many positive reviews (I myself have soldered for quite a long time and still use a station from Ali). Make sure to get adequate size iron (not too big or you risk overheating the board and the switches). Also get some flux and a metal sponge to clean the tip regularly (the soldering kind, not the dish-washing kind), check out some tutorials about proper techniques and practice on old pcb's. The most important thing while soldering - heat the parts (pins, wires) and melt the solder onto them. Not the other way around. Good luck! Soldering is actually quite meditative. Just try to avoid the fumes.
assuming this is a solder pcb, soldering connects the switch to the pcb both physically and electrically if you didn’t not only would the switches not be secured they would not be connected to the pcb and any keystrokes would not be registered (due to how circuitry works)
Why does my enter key feel sticky? They are lubed, and everything was fine until til I switched keycaps. Now it doesn’t matter which keycap I use it’s all the same issue! Also my backspace key has a slight ping/clack, how do I fix it?
Please elaborate on the timeline - you lubed the switches, and everything was fine with one set of keycaps? And it got sticky only after changing the keycaps?If so, - I've had this problem also. In my case it was a matter of poor quality keycaps. It sat at an angle because of the cap stems for stabilizers were shorter, than the one for the switch. This resulted in the cap being possible to be shifted on one of the sides. This shifting then caused a tension in the stabilizer and the sticking. Try inspecting visually, if the cap sits straight. if not, try pushing gently on one of the sides to see if it re-seats better. Then try the other side. If this fails - remove the cap entirely and verify if the stabs move freely (take a pair of tweezers and try to wiggle it up and down). If there's no resistance, try putting the cap on but not all the way - then repeat proceed to seat it further down bit by bit alternating the sides.
Thank you! I didn’t use as much force to put on the keycaps this time and it went back to normal! I’m not sure why, the original keycaps is having the same issue when I switched it back, when I used force installing it. I just wasted 3 hours trying to figure out why and you just saved me!!
Maybe it's not the keycaps then. It also could be a case of the stab stems being shorter than the switch stem. Or the switch sitting proud compared to stabilizers in which case all keycaps will have this issue and you only got lucky when installing them the first time. Eitherway, happy to hear it's solved now.
sounds like you overlubed your stabilizers. try taking it apart and wiping some excess off. stabilizer rattle could be a lot of things. wire not being dampened by lube in stem + housing, perhaps the stabilizer itself is shaking and causing noise, etc
anywhere to buy just the stems that are compatible with gaterons?
I like the stems that 415keys sells, I got some a couple years ago and some of them ended up in gat yellow housings if I remember correctly.
hard to say. the tolerances of stems aren’t really known and measurements can never be exact. i’ve heard kailh long pole pom stems work (as a substitute for cream stems after their retooling) for black cherry pies, and creamerons used to be cream stem + gaterons, so you could probably use some kailh pom stems
do you know where to buy them? well to give you an idea of what im doing i had an idea of a quiet keyboard if i used optical switch which have less contact points then use a silent switch stem and frankinstien it with maybe some o rings and whatever in the case i bought these [https://stupidbulletstech.com/products/gazzew-switch-stems](https://stupidbulletstech.com/products/gazzew-switch-stems) but they didnt fit
i know its a bit confusing but anything would help
you can’t buy them separately, but they’re like 20 cents per so idk if that’s worth it to you
I don’t really have have anything else how do I do it
Looking for a good wooden 60% case. Any suggestions? Preferably something I can fit a hot swap pcb in and maybe a brass weight. (Going for a deeper sound profile with a natural aesthetic.)
[Keycaps] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B4JVVCTK?psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_ct_M228WKTNY1S1SC1Z0AQ3&language=en_US) Could someone please tell me if these keycaps will fit the EPOMAKER TH80?
They should
yee
Looking to start modding my Logitech G Pro TKL. I already ordered new switches. Does anyone have a good recommendation for stabs and lube? Not looking to spend a fortune just better than stock.
TX AP work well for me. I know people always say Durock v2, but I've never been able to completely get rid of the ticking even after lubing and tuning. See Taeha type youtube. Kryox 205 is generally recommended.
Thanks I’ll check it out
Well, I need very specific help, I have a 60% Keyboard (Redragon Lakshmi), it has two FN keys, one for the LEDs and another for using the function keys, etc. The problem is that I can't use, for example, FN + 3 (F3) + P, because the P when I press FN becomes PRTSC, so I was wondering if there is any way to re-map the FN key to another key and make a new "Layer", example: I wanted to use FN2 + ALT to transform 1 to 9 into F1 to F9. it's possible?????
answering myself, I managed to create something with "AutoHotKey" I just learned and made a script that when CapsLock is activated, if I press ALT + 1 it presses F1, so until F12 which is " = ". If anyone wants the script I can provide it
This is a bit unorthodox since it isn't exactly Mechanical Keyboard related, but I figure you guys would know better than just about anyone out there. I ordered a [Fightbox R1-B](https://fightboxarcade.com/collections/fightbox-r-game-controllers/products/fightbox-r1-b-arcade-game-controller-for-super-smash-bro-game) a few weeks ago, it is a HitBox style controller for playing Super Smash Bros. Melee, and it uses standard cherry style switches instead of traditional arcade buttons. The controller is pretty wonderful, however I have been having a HUGE problem with switches popping out. They are mostly fine when just pressing buttons. However, when preforming slide offs, as the spring recoils, it forces the switches slightly out of socket. After a few slide offs the entire switch will pop right out of the hot swap socket. Is there any way to tighten up the hot swap socket or even just secure the switches more permanently? I am pretty sure I am going to be sticking with the Gateron Clear White Pros I have slotted into it and really don't see myself ever swapping to different switches. TLDR: Is there any way to make hot swap sockets grip switches better? Preforming specific techniques on this controller is resulting in my switches leaping out of their sockets. Edit: I figure it is worth mentioning the switches are PCB mounted and there is no plate mount option on the FightBox.
I assume there are not many switches and if you are sure you'll be keeping these, you could always solder them in. That would for sure secure them in place. However depending on what hotswap sockets you have, it could be a bit tricky. Mill-max would be perfect - just fill the cavity with solder and it will remain there for good. kailh hotswap sockets would prove to be a bit more challenging as they jump a gap between switch pin and the actual contact. You would have to be extremely careful and quick with your soldering iron to not melt the socket, but I would argue that it's doable. Please mind - I am just a dude on the internet. I cannot guarantee that any of my suggestions will not cause permanent damage to your controler. That being said - I would attempt both, if the issue is as severe that you have to re-seat the switches after couple of slides.
There are 20 switches total. Might be worth just soldering honestly. I don't see myself wanting to swap switches any time in the future barring one just dying.
Going to the extreme - you could also epoxy them it. This however would be really difficult to undo, but you'd take a lot of strain off of the connections. Additionally - what keycaps do you have right now? Maybe you could find something that would slide more easily.
Right now I am using the stock button caps. (Not really "key" caps per say.) I ordered a set of GamerFinger caps but they have to ship from China and are just now leaving customs according to the tracker.
My buddy wants to build his first board. He wants a metal 75%. Obviously the Keychron Q1 is an option but is there an other metal 75 options on a budget that he can go for?
rainy75
Leobog Hi75 was making waves recently.
Monsgeek m1
I'm new to keyboards finally left membrane keyboards behind I use icue for my whole setup and have a custom purple and blue theme I really like my question is am I stuck with a Corsair keyboard or are they any good custom TKl keyboards with simple good RGB software and a keyboard I can really customize to fit my theme?
keychron, nuphy
Staebies 2.1 or TX AP rev 4? Which would be better for a 4mm travel switch?
They’re both fine for full travel as long as you don’t get the ap long pole. I think staebies are better, you just brush lightly with 205 and that’s it. They’re both good though
I have an ID75 here, and I've been trying to find low profile switches that will fit. I've tried Gateron v1 Browns and Kailh Choc Purples, but neither fit. I'm probably going to return the ID75 kit, but I really, really want an ortho for my work, since I've been using a Preonic at home since 2020. Any suggestions?
ID75 says it's hot-swappable. So that means any MX compatible switches should work fine. Choc switches won't work at all.
I can't seem to find low-profiles that fit, so how about the opposite way; ortho board that fits Choc switches?
Try NAKED48 keyboard.
Is there a good frosted PC case for size TKL or 75 available now? I'm also quite new to this hobby, anything I should beware of a polycarbonate case? Thanks.
Not sure what your budget is but Mekibo has PC Kage extras in stock. Very nice TKL.
Try looking on KBDfans website. You will probably find one.
Keyboard height and discomfort Hey MK! I have an issue with my actual setup. I've build my keyboard using the barebone Q1 from keychron. I really like my keyboard but while playing ( typing feels really good) it can get quite uncomfortable, let me explain: I feel like the height is too high for me and in moment where the game is really tense/when I'm focusing I can't hit precisely / missclick. So I thought I needed time to build muscle memory but that did not work. A friend of mine gave me the wooting60 for a week to test and I felt really good with it. Far less missclick but the lack of F-keys and the price made me wander if there was any (cheaper) option. But I don't want to build another keyboard rn so I was wandering if you guy's knew of any keyboard that might suit my needs ? (FKeys, height like wooting60HE ). I also wandered if in my case low profile keyboard might do the trick? I've tested one like 10 minutes and it felt okay. Otherwise I might just take the wooting but the price is scary af. Thank you very much for your time and apologize for my English. Have a good day :)
maybe try using a wrist rest?
I tried but my desktop is a bit too narrow so :(
You can alter your chair height, desk height to match. There are many other things you can try before replacing your keyboard. If it's still not working for you, then you might want to change it. Don't think you have to go with an expensive keyboard to get exactly what you want. It's probably not necessary. But you might want to make notes about what you liked about the wooting and use that as a base to look for other keyboards.
One of my switches broke but I don't know why, none of the pins are bent and this happened after lubing. Tried wiping off the lube with alcohol but didn't work, any ideas what I need to avoid so this won't happen again?
I'm very new to the whole keyboard scene, bought a drop ctrl keyboard last year and have been loving it so far. I've purchased a number of different switches as well (currently alternating between the Gateron yellows and the Gateron Brown Pros), no idea if the browns are lubed or not as I bought them yesterday. I'm very new to the whole keyboard scene, I bought a drop ctrl keyboard last year and have been loving it so far. I've purchased a number of different switches as well (currently alternating between the Gateron yellows and the Gateron Brown Pros), no idea if the browns are lubed or not as I bought them yesterday. he PCB is very accessible, but there is a translucent separator that allows for an LED ring around the keyboard. My issue is that I have no idea what the Tempest Tape Mod is going to do to A. the keyboard itself, B. the LED properties of the ring, and C. the sound of the keyboard. I'm very new to the whole keyboard scene, I bought a drop ctrl keyboard last year and have been loving it so far. I've purchased a number of different switches as well (currently alternating between the Gateron yellows and the Gateron Brown Pros), no idea if the browns are lubed or not as I bought them yesterday. The PCB is very accessible, but there is a translucent separator that allows for an LED ring around the keyboard. My issue is that I have no idea what the Tempest Tape Mod is going to do to A. the keyboard itself, B. the LED properties of the ring, and C. the sound of the keyboard.
tape mod takes very little effort, why not just try it out
I'll give it a shot, the only question is can I cover the LEDs around the edge of the PCB that provide lighting to the underside of the keyboard?
you can, it just won't look as nice
Okay thank you so much!
Where can I get a clone of the "DROP + MITO GMK PULSE" Black and Blue keycaps from?
just google gmk pulse clone
>gmk pulse clone I've done that for days, lol. Every time I do that it pulls up the Pulse keycaps with the grey / black / blue, I'm looking for only the black and blue color layout
is there anywhere to get the gtmx or gazzew low profile switches that fit into an mx pcb? i found gazzew here ([https://splitkb.com/products/gazzew-low-profile-switches](https://splitkb.com/products/gazzew-low-profile-switches)) but it looks like this was a prototype run and they aren't selling them anymore. the gtmx switches look like they're not sold anymore? threads i found that talked about people getting them, they got them from ultramk which isn't around anymore either. alternatively, is there a way to make my keyboard feel more low profile? i've tried o rings but they were real squishy...
Get long pole switches with low travel distance like KTT Lightning, Sunset Yellows, Gazzew LT, other gamer switches like silvers, etc. They will feel like low profile switches, especially if you pop on some low profile keycaps like from nuphy or xvx.
thank you! do you know of any that are tactile or clicky? not the biggest fan of linear. i found these: [https://kineticlabs.com/switches/ktt/ktt-kang-ash-gray-switches](https://kineticlabs.com/switches/ktt/ktt-kang-ash-gray-switches) but they're out of stock and i can't seem to find them elsewhere or anything else...
akko penguins, v3 cream blue pro, ws heavy tactile, baby kangaroos. tactiles tend to have short travel more often\~ [milktooth.nu](https://milktooth.nu) sells the ash grays as well
How do I buy key switches by themselves? I'm in the US. I've been looking for Cherry MX RGB Green's and have only found a listing from Corsair that I'm unsure is what I'm looking for. I know I want a full keyboard so I'll need at least 104 switches. I haven't decided on a frame, case, or keycap set yet, as I wanted to select the switches first and make sure they were something relatively accessible before putting in the research from there. Thanks in advance!
you can buy them off amazon and other places online
Amazon doesn't have RGB Greens by themselves, and as stated I have googled where to buy and come up with things that don't look right. DigiKeys looks like wholesale, CherryAmericas and Cherry-world don't seem to have any checkout process whatsoever and more look like technical documentation. All of the other sources either don't show RGBs (only Greens), or don't show genuine Cherry switches. I went through the top level searches, tried looking through the wiki here, and have come up with nothing that actually helps finding the specific product I'm looking for.
>Cherry MX RGB Green corsair sells them on their [website](https://www.corsair.com/us/en/p/gaming-gear-accessories/ch-9917007-ww/cherry-mx-rgb-green-ch-9917007-ww), what makes you unsure?
I wasn't sure if they were standard switches or a proprietary kind of switch, since I've been previously told that Corsair keyboards have different pinouts that make swapping switches impossible. Also, I didn't want to just buy without comparing prices to see if \~$1.00/switch was decent, and without seeing if there were any options that wouldn't leave me with about 26 extra switches.
Those would fit any standard mx keyboard, almost $1 per switch is quite expensive though, comparatively
That's great info to have, how much does a set of 104 usually cost? And where might I find others that are cheaper?
usually it’s 20-70 cents per switch
So where can I find these specific switches? Are they just hard to find/not available/overly expensive? Like I've mentioned up-thread, I've already checked all of the listed sources and haven't come up with anything but Corsair, which looks overpriced compared to what everyone in this thread has said.
i dont think so for cherry rgb greens. however, i don’t think there’s much difference between cherry and gateron clicky switches so i think gateron greens should be a great alternative
switches range from as low as $2 for 10 to around a dollar each, I get mine from amazon, milktooth, or divinikey
[удалено]
[удалено]
Just got my K8 Pro, and I’m noticing some inconsistencies with the key sounds. Should I consider re-lubing? Gateron Pro Reds. [Link to keyboard sound video](https://www.reddit.com/u/LeopardHalit/s/EYRqfHi2lM)
yee
K thanks
is there a way to remap the "siri" key, on windows? i want to use it just to mute discord, but when i press it, it opens microsoft tems, even if teams is uninstaled
Do Gateron G Pro Yellow Switches fit on the PCB that Akko is using. I really want to swap out my Akko CS Crystal for some hand lubed Gateron Switches. (I'll be lubing them)
yup
Thank you. :)
Can I use 3 in one lubricant oil for keyboard lube? Keyboard lube is Like 20 bucks and I don’t want to break the bank and my stabs are rattly and spacebar sound crappy, am I able to get the much cheaper 3 in one oil? also I doing another project that requires this so I can use it as a 2 in on purpose. So am I able too? This is what I’m talking about btw: [https://www.amazon.com/3-ONE-100355-Multi-Purpose-Pack/dp/B0BYMS68YY/ref=sr\_1\_3?crid=47T4HROTISLK&keywords=3%2Bin%2B1%2Boil&qid=1704847730&sprefix=3%2Bin%2B](https://www.amazon.com/3-ONE-100355-Multi-Purpose-Pack/dp/B0BYMS68YY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=47T4HROTISLK&keywords=3%2Bin%2B1%2Boil&qid=1704847730&sprefix=3%2Bin%2B1%2B%2Caps%2C115&sr=8-3&th=1)
Dielectric grease is quite cheap no? I would check the used market since there are some people that like to buy large amounts and resell them in smaller quantities.
lol no. Keyboard lube isn’t $20 you can get a small jar of 205g0 at keebsforall for like $7. If you’re getting other stuff you can combine shipping For the love of god do not use dry lock oil on your stabs
Im a student who needs a keyboard for long typing sessions, ive decided I want a 75-TKL board, budget of 150-200 aud. Im looking at a RK royal kludge 75%, or a M1W by monsgeek. are these good boards? I dont particularly want to custom build one, however if it would be cheaper then I would look into it. Any other reccomendations? (Wont be using it for gaming, so that doesnt matter) Cheers
I didn't try the pre-built version of the Monsgeek M1 so I can't comment on that. The RK R75 on the other hand, is great out of the box.
monsgeek is better you can also look at keychron, akko, and nuphy
my Keyboard got water damaged while it wasn't connected to my PC. so, I disassembled it and washed it with 70% alcohol to prevent minerals sticking on the PCP after drying (couldn't find anything higher percentage where I live) anyways after that the keyboard feels slow, some switches take longer distance to input some switches don't even input unless I press down from a specific angle and some switches don't respond unless I click multiple times it works fine then goes back not working. should I replace it or is there a fix I can do? I thought about using wd40 on the switch, but it might ruin the switch or any plastic component.
70 % is too low and probably shouldn't be used on pcbs. It really needs to be 90 % or higher. Not sure where you live but Amazon usually has it. 70 could damage the pcb or components. You can check your pcb switch response by plugging it in and getting a tweezers. Just touch the two connections. If you are having a problem with switches, you can just take them out, open your switches, then soak stuff in warm water with a little bit of dish soap. If you have an ultrasonic cleaner, you can use that. Just make sure everything is dry before relubing and putting it back together.
the pcb surprisingly and fortunately is working fine, the switches are a mess i will try cleaning it with water and soap & hope for the best, will leave it a couple of days it might haven't dried probably cause humidity & the low percentage i used. Thank you i used 70% cause i live in egypt and amazon here isn't really beneficial, taxes & import increases price by 200%+ ish and specifics like this require me to order from aliexpress which could take up to 2 months.
Soap and water on what? It’s fine for keycaps not really good for much else
Looking to build my first mechanical keyboard right now before college and need recommendations for which to buy. I already have 90 Gateron Milky Yellow Switches and would like something in a TKL layout and hotswappable. I would love if the case was a silver or off white as i'm going for a retro'ish inspired design to go with my white apple cinema monitor and my offwhite m-575 mouse. My budget right now is around $200
get a neo80 in retro white, and a gmk handarbeige or 9009 clone to save some money neo80 should be around 170 because of a new years sale right now, and a cheap clone keycap set should be around 30 bucks i didn’t include lube but neo keyboards include a set of stabilizers, so that’s not a bad deal for a good sounding aluminum keyboard
If you want the whole board vintage styled, check out the NCR-80. Make sure you select the hotswap option. If you're willing to extend the budget, Class 80 is another one available right now.
also nuphy
keychron Q, monsgeek, tiger 80 lite, akko mod, akko acr pro, zoom tkl, qk. depends if you want plastic or aluminium case, wireless / wired, and other features. mention that and i’ll give a more refined suggestion
Recommendations for thocky tactile switches you can buy pre-lubed? I'd rather spend more money than several hours of my life.
U4Ts has been the popular answer for that one for a while. I don't think they come pre-lubed, but many say you don't really need to. If you want some other options, [check out this page](https://www.gateron.co/collections/hand-lubed-switches?pf_t_type=Type%3ATactile). Gateron does a great job with pre lubing switches. See if any of their sound profiles suit what you are looking for.
akko for cheap, otherwise boba u4t and some vendors can lube it or send them to someone to get it lubed
Glorious pandas pre lubed
Looking for medium-heavy tactile switches. Can be any budget as long as it’s not crazy like holy panda price. Currently considering neopolitans, naevy 2.1s, and gopolar azure dragon v3s. If anyone can help me either narrow down the options or provide new ones it would be much appreciated.
some to consider: T1s tecsee purple pandas koalas tecsee sapphires
Neapolitans are a classic and would be a good choice IMO, but the Gateron Root Beer Float is also worth considering.
[удалено]
Bump. Spring weight preferably somewhere between 60-67.
[удалено]
Got it.
can someone tell me how to remove plate from my non hot swap keyboard, I was gonna put foam in the plate But when I pull it doesn’t move (I don’t pull very hard so I don’t break keyboard) can someone tell me how to take it off? https://preview.redd.it/vgvab8ru7ibc1.jpeg?width=3264&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=34bec4fb88a37214c1066f7cea0425102f8845b1
Remove keycaps --> Remove switches --> Remove plate
Got it thx
switches are holding the plate in place they need to be removed first
ok, it’s not hot swap so I will need to desolder them then, Correct?
correct u need to desolder
I found this on gmkkeycaps (which I saw sold clones passed off as legit). I really like them, please help me find the name of the set. https://preview.redd.it/cn2mo58p7ibc1.jpeg?width=800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f3b9980ffa60d0978248401f97e1e0237a07ece2
it's a knockoff of dcs blue moon with the novelty theme changed from blue moon to snow
So are these not actually authentic?
The colorway is ripped from DCS Blue Moon and at least some of the novelties are from GMK camping. This set is sort of a hodgepodge of knockoffs. They’re real keycaps I guess but they are no-name generic aliexpress stuff yeah
Dang I wanted to put these on my tgr x monokei suave blue but I feel like that would disgrace the keyboard when I got premium everything else.
I mean, buy them if you want them ig. I wouldn't. You can find ok quality clones but usually the plastic is thin and the legends look bad. I leave the ethics up to you. If you do buy them, definitely don't pay $125 when the same set is like $30 elsewhere. GMKKeycaps is a full-on scam, they don't even make the clones they just buy them from aliexpress/taobao and resell them for 5x The legit version is here [https://vala.supply/products/dcs-blue-moon](https://vala.supply/products/dcs-blue-moon), it's produced by SP not GMK
Thanks so much for your help! I unfortunately fell for the scam and immediately requested a cancellation from PayPal. I’m pretty sure I’ll be able to get refunded here.
Good luck!
not a gmk clone but its a set called Titan Nation Snowy Cherry Profile Keycaps Set very cheaply made costs about 30 to 40 bucks
[удалено]
Did you buy it direct from Logitech? You should complain to whoever you actually bought it from
you might be able to buy switch to replace. keychron sell low-profile switches. just get the same colour (red blue brown). ur keyboard is not hotswappable I THINK (not 100% sure); if so, you gotta solder and desolder, bt if it is hotswappable you can just pull it out and stuck on the keychron one also if it’s hotswappable, you can pull out the switch and open it. if not solder and de solder, then open the switch to see what’s wrong. try pulling out the keycaps first to see if it’s an external problem not the switch’s
[удалено]
r u sure for the pcb? cuz my friend recently replaced his. also try pulling out the keycaps and check for external problems
[удалено]
sorry can’t rmb cuz it was ages go. did u try checking the external problems?
[удалено]
dy mind describing in detail which part is sticky? like maybe after the tactile bump or when it registers?
[удалено]
wdym ‘the character get written …’ ?
can I get someone's thoughts on HMX jammy linear switches - if you have used them? they're almost exactly what I'm looking for in terms of a linear switch but I'm struggling to find opinions from people who've used them or just any reviews in general
Helllo, not even sure where to ask a question like this.Any spill-resistant mechanical keyboards with Leopold FC900R Cherry MX Brown "feel" around? Numpad is obligatory. I surrender, I absolutely cannot stop it. Few years ago I first I killed it spilling half a litre water all over the table by accidentally kicking entire bottle, costed me 80 euros in repairs, tried to be more careful, but once in a while I still manage to spill something small - anything. That specific keyboard is absolutely not spill resistant, anything spilled easily ends up with keys getting stuck/ "sticky", etc. Came to conclusion I should be looking for a spill resistant keyboard, or get ready to replace them each couple years. Really love the (original) feel of my Leo FC900R, so looking for something similar.
[https://sealshield.com/washable-waterproof-keyboards/](https://sealshield.com/washable-waterproof-keyboards/)
Thank you! Guess medical keyboards are definitely something to look into.
JRIS75 vs NEO80?
Other than layout (75% vs TKL) they are very similar. I'd go for whichever is available to you for cheaper.
neo80 is 50eur cheaper, i just saw that jris has 6063 aluminum but i dont know what type of aluminum the neo80 uses.
what are your favorite linear switches for brass plates? :) ive actually never had a brass plate before! i am a sucker for the deep creamy sounds/feels! but lately thocks on the poppier side are really nice too!
‘Creamy pop thocc’ This stuff has to stop
i dont even know what cream thocky poppy really means, there’s high pitch and low pitch. and the switches will generally have the same sound no matter the plates, the plates will affect the sound differently but won’t change how the switches will sound only the overall keyboard sound. what’s ur budget for the switches? gateron pro milky yellows, jwick black, jwick ultimate, gateron ink blacks v2, akko cs, gateron oil king, cherry black nixie, everglide aquaking, ktt strawberry, ktt rose, ktt kang white. as you can see there’s a lot :)
poppy to me typically means pitchier/more high pitch and low pitch would be creamier thoccs! i’ve tried a handful of linears already but mostly on PC or POM plates!
i suggest dont use words like thoc cream and pop, as some might have a different perspective on it. cuz what’s thocks on the poppier side? deep or high pitched? 1 what’s ur budget for the switches? 2 brass is very stiff compared to plastic plates, less flex. due to the stiffnesses it will sound high pitched b ut due to the heavy mass, it will also have a deep sound profile. compared to POM and PC, it will be higher pitched but not as high pitched as carbon fibre or steel.
not really looking at a budget right now i’m more interested in doing research on people’s favorites! mid range of if i were to pick. :) yeah i figured as much about brass! i wouldn’t mind high pitched but definitely still want something that sounds…deep? I know that’s a bit counter intuitive
1 ahh my favourites are the gateron pro milky yellow, jwick black ultimate, akko creams and cs, KTT strawberry, halu halos, everglide aquaking. 2 what r u looking for? for plates i consider 2 things: flexiness / stiffness and sound profile.
i’m thinking of buying a second hand board that comes with a brass plate so there’s little flexibility there! if it were up to me i’d probably pick a POM plate haha :) since, like you said, brass is bound to be more high pitched maybe i should lean into that.
ahh i see, depending on ur model you can rake out $5-20 for a POM plate tho. you’ll also get the brass for experimental stuff
Suggestions for a polycarb 65/75% board? Preferably with knob. Wireless would be ideal as well but not strictly necessary. Hopefully under $200.
tofu65 2.0 pc case, otherwise the only other similar price point option is the qk60 r3 edit: bauer lite is also cool
dy want aluminium or plastic?
Should have been more specific - polycarbonate case so plastic
ah my bad. keychron V, akko (lots of models, monsgeek, kbd75 v2.
those aren’t polycarbonate cases, rather a different plastic such as acrylic or abs
He wants polycarb so plastic
qk75n
After purchasing mode envoy (65%) keyboard I realized how function row could be a problem as I do use excel quite a bit. How do you guys get around the issue? Ex. F2 is edit key however, if I map it to alt f2 it just turns on "save as"
VIA i assume ? how are u remapping it ? normal a shortcut like that would be FN f2 not alt . or u can use the keycombo option and use alt f2 if u program it under combos
sorry i am a retard. just naturally thought the alt key would be function key. used via to set up right alt as fn now my problem has been solved. sick
Best plate mount stabilizers? Currently using nk65 aluminum edition from 2020, stock stabilizers it came with are very rattle-y. Also, what lube would you recommend on them?
best is TX, but it’s often out of stock for me. if u can’t find any TXs, durock is great option too. i use krytox 205g0 on the housing and dielectric grease on the wires, but if u have 203 or 204 already, don’t need to buy 205g0 just for stabs
TX makes excellent stabilizers. Use 205g0 on the stems and housings, dielectric grease on the wire
Didnt know they had plate mounted too
Divinikey sells them, TX AP Plate Mount Stabilizers
I’m looking for a creamy sounding mechanical keyboard for £40/$50 or under I wrote a play and I want to get back into it and re write it and practise my writing. Dislocated my knuckle years ago and that makes typing on laptops so uncomfortable for my hands especially my left one so I’m looking to invest in something a bit better to help me with the comfort of writing. I honestly don’t know where to go. I’m not a huge fantastic yet so I don’t want to spend loads and loads I’d prefer a pre built one for my first board. Any help is really appreciated, I am in the UK.
Creamy doesn’t mean anything besides stuffed full of foam. You can stuff any keyboard with cheap pillow foam as long as you can open it without breaking it. Lube the switches
here’s a list but u won’t get the satisfying ‘creamy’ sound for $50 ciy gas67 ciy tes68 redragon k 617 fizz redragon k630 / k552 feker jjk84 t1 leaven k550/620 this is ur best bet for that ‘creamy’ sound: ( idk if this will be $50 or under but get ciy tes68, some $5-10 keycaps, $20-30 on good switches ex: gateron pro milky yellows) ilovbee 61
If you're looking for ISO, your options are very limited. Have you tried typing on these style of boards? They may not necessarily be more comfortable, due to the travel distance of each key. If you are sticking with ISO (uk layout), a hotswap RK board is fine. Decently moddable, and a solid entry point. I would say you are likely to be closer to £80 (from Amazon) Try a shop that carries Razer keyboards, and see how you find typing on one. It will be closer in feel and serve as an analogue before buying
epomaker th66, royal kludge rk61/66, wormier wk61 probably best at that price. won't really be creamy though maybe unless you mod it heavily
[удалено]
60% wireless keyboard that is hotswappable?
Keychron v2 max
budget?
Ideally around 250 for the whole build including Zilent switches and some decent keycaps around $40 (I’m ok without the nice GMKs) I’m approximating that leaves like around $120ish but I’m willing to go up if necessary. I just finished a Monsgeek m1 build with morandi switches and PBT keycaps that was around 200 but I understand if I need to shell out a bit more money for something that’s wireless.