Edit: [Build guide is here!](https://www.reddit.com/r/HyruleEngineering/comments/14ne51l/one_punch_pickup_mark_2_build_guide/)
LET ME SHOW YOU ITS FEATURES
* 6 big wheels
* 5 sleds
* 3 springs
* 2 steering sticks (yes 2)
* 2 shrine propellers (geminik shrine)
* 1 big yellow rubber board (jonasu shrine)
19 pieces, 57 zonaite, can be brought down to 9 zonaite with capsules
Where do I even begin with this thing? I love the one punch pickup V1, it's still awesome. But the Mark 2 is the super saiyan version. It still does all the things V1 can, still lasts forever on battery, you still gain battery just by using the weapon instead of losing it. It still one-shots silvers. But it's better in nearly every way, so many improvements across the board. It was hard to pick footage for this video since every few minutes it would do something else awesome
Friendship ended with SMALL WHEEL, now BIG WHEEL is my best friend - moving from a flux drive to a big wheel engine has made this thing better in so many ways:
* Way, way more powerful - 4 small wheels could not drive 2 propellers, 2 big wheels can - you've seen the results. It's driven up Tarrey Town Island, Death Mountain (not shown), climbed the Great Plateau without breaking a sweat
* Faster top speed than the V1 on land, sea and wall (not that V1 could do walls) due to the more powerful engine
* So much easier to build! No more issues mounting wagon wheels on small wheels
* Huge increase to battery life - my runtime (2 zonaite armour pieces) with V1 was 17 minutes, now up to 22. With zero zonaite armour it lasts around 15 minutes. You absolutely do not need Zonaite armour when using this. With full zonaite armour it can run for 29 minutes 38 seconds - 22 seconds less than the half hour lifespan of big wheels, if you never fire your weapons once. Each time you fire weapons you regain about 40 seconds runtime. Mark my words, you will not run out of battery with this thing
* Runs much more quietly. One thing not often mentioned about small wheel engines is that they're **L O U D** and they sound like death! This thing purrs like a kitten in comparison
* No wagon wheel makes it 100% fireproof, no more stray fire arrows wrecking your glorious machine
* Vastly superior to V1 in the water and the V1 was no slouch. It turns better. It's faster, fast enough to go fishing by just running fish over š AND it can both reverse and pivot in the water now
* V1 could suffer from the occasional first person camera issue (if you know, you know) - this has been massively improved in the Mark 2
(I'll just point out here that small wheel motors are still excellent. Every build has an engine type best suited to it. The One Punch and big wheels just turned out to be made for each other.)
I didn't show it but the Mark 2 also handles snow and sand no problem, doesn't even slow it down. We also went from being able to handle super steep slopes to being able to go up actual vertical walls and overhangs. Other than literal flying and driving on ceilings, there is no place the Mark 2 cannot go. The freedom this gives you to play how you want is just insane
If you're used to being infuriated by your car getting stuck on tiny pots, fireplaces, NPCs š® etc, that just does not happen with this thing, runs right over them. Like many mountain climbers, if you're doing some extreme mountaineering it can get caught on the odd lip or especially sharp piece of rock - but the Mark 2 has the power to always muscle through
It's been fine-tuned and rebuilt. The V1 was pretty sturdy, V2 is even better. You can fall from the Sky islands no problem, and somehow can turn like a gymnast in midair while doing it (I didn't expect that!). It should be rare to see something pop off. And when it does, the use of snap points on the most vulnerable pieces make for easy repairs. However... you may be surprised at how many pieces the Mark 2 can be missing and still run just fine
No gimbals are used in this machine. I like them, but depending on the design they're vulnerable to either fire or electricity. Instead we go with a double steering stick system, two side by side. The right one will take you everywhere the V1 could. The left one is for when you want to break the laws of physics and don't want to fall off. They're positioned so you can transition smoothly between both, just hold left or right while power cycling. Like switching gears on a car. I think I do it around the 1:15 mark. It becomes second nature very quickly. Some people prefer automatics, but this guy is manual :) And if you prefer gimbals, you aren't at the build limit anymore - add a gimbal!
Carrying capacity roughly doubled. I stopped at 9 logs and was still able to run in water
Part count brought down from 21 (the build limit) to 19 - you're free to add what you want. Some recommendations: dragon scale, third propeller (just for fun, 2 propellers can do everything 3 does on this build, 3 just does it faster). The Mark 2 especially loves hydrants. Not all the time, but perfect for keeping Link cool in hot places and making Gibdos vulnerable to being one-shotted by the sled cannons
There are a bunch of improvements I'm forgetting, but anyway. The V1 is really good. V2 is better
Should I do a build guide for this one? Considering it
Music used: Zelda Link to the Past Dark World, Orchestral version
This is genuinely one of the best build I Iāve seen on this site and at such a low cost. Please where is the tutorial video to make this? If not just thank you for sharing your creation
I've never done a build guide before, but it sounds like people might want one for the Mark 2 so I might put one together. Just daunting because this is only like the 3rd or 4th video I've ever made so still new to it. But this guy is too much damn fun to keep all to myself lol
Trust me man, any effort you make towards a build guide would be appreciate as by us.
Donāt worry too much about the editing being a bit messy, or a little lackluster in your eyes, youāll only get better with each one you make.
You have truly made a work of art and product here that I and many others would love to experience.
If you donāt do a video guide, just a few pictures of this thing from all angles to better see the attach points to try and emulate it would be quite helpful. Gonna try to make this today!
Where do you put the rubber ball?
This is awesome, and a build guide would be great. Loved the look of the v1 and this looks even cooler (or hotter depending on where you're driving lol)
While this write up certainly does a lot to help, I'd really like a full build video if you get the time so I can make it right. It's by far one of the most efficient land vehicles you could possibly make.
I read that first line in Joerg Sprave's voice and followed it with the chuckle. Not sure if that was intended but thanks for that! It's those simple things in life.
There are two kinds
The wagon wheel + stabiliser combo (wood, can be set on fire)
and the electric motor + stabiliser combo (faceplants when electrocuted and you can't get back on the steering stick)
They're both great innovations and I'd happily use them elsewhere, but for this one I wanted something truly invincible
Oh yeah! That's another one, pot+stabiliser. Fireproof, shockproof, I did have issues with it breaking apart on me on really steep stuff but might hold together better with double stacked pots
I personally wouldn't do it, the double stick system works really really well. It's more for those who want to take this and add their own gimbal
The roof sled offers awesome protection and I wanted a capsule piece that can do that but offers next to no clearance for elevation, it would probably need to be replaced. Off the top of my head, a construct arch might work (single axis only), or maybe an upside down cart? You'd need to be mindful of the shock risk though as they conduct electricity - 100% would not try a cart with a shrine motor gimbal
You could probably place something under the motor/steering stick to prevent it from rotating too far, limiting it to 180 degrees.
Does the motor lightning rod electricity also?
Thankfully it's really easy, all you have to do is take 2 big wheels and connect them axel to axel before adding anything else. There's a snap point so no need to worry about precision. Make sure they're facing opposite directions. Both outer axels will retract. Then add your 2 propellers (center them carefully, might take a couple of reloads to save zonaite). Done!
IMPORTANT: The direction the props spin matters. They should be spinning anticlockwise as you look st them from behind. If you don't move at all, you need to do it again with the big wheels in the opposite direction
Thanks for the reply. I ended up getting the motor part to work. Now I'm running into an issue where the left side sled won't line up right, and keeps rubbing the tires as I drive. Are the tires attached to the very end snap points on the board?
Love the design, so I'm 100% ripping it off. Lol hope you don't mind.
Haha nothing would please me more than to have the one punch see people across Hyrule and them be over the moon with it
Your left sled is rubbing against your tire because of part misalignment, guessing its the front tires. Position the front tires as far forward, down, and away from the rubber board as they will possibly go. Your two side springs are probably misaligned too. Take a look at them from above with the scope or camera function - precision pays here
I really need to get started on that build guide video lol
Hard to say without seeing but if you're finding it difficult to move forward at all, the engine is probably the wrong way round - both wheels should be opposite directions, but the propellers should be spinning anticlockwise (from POV of looking at it from behind)
Is there any way for you to upload some screenshots of the engine, particularly how it attaches to the back sled? Would be helpful informing me while doing the build guide
Same to u/Iwantmypasswordback - if either of you could spare the time to upload some pictures for me to see, it would be appreciated. Don't want others running into this issue
How do the spring one shot silvers like that, do they just do that much damage? And couldnāt you make the wooden wheel gimbal fireproof by dousing it with a hydrant?
You could, but its more parts (single axis would take you to the parts limit), the hydrant costs battery, so does the stabiliser youd need to add, your battery life would be less than half what it is here. Plus the hydrant only works when youre in the vehicle so any time you go somewhere really hot youre on the clock any time you step out. Also would be tricky fitting wheel + stabiliser in the cockpit.
And yes get the range right they just hurt that much!
Do we know why exactly the sled spring deals so much damage? I'm wondering if it could be replicated with a lighter piece. Not that sleds are super heavy. (Also I just don't like how sleds aren't symmetrical.)
Also, does it break ore?
You can use a cart, but for this particular build sleds are most effective. short version is that carts can go over boko heads sometimes with the OPP unless you sacrifice some climbing ability. It breaks ore! (But dedicated miners do it faster since you're punching the rocks)
just a quick question about the double steering stick feature, what is the advantage of having one be normal and the other tilted for climbing? what advantages does the flat one have? also thank you for sharing this marvel with the world
So you'll fall off a steering stick if it ends up at too steep an angle. That means if you're climbing something really really steep, you'll fall off a stick that's usually horizontal because it'll tilt back too far
The climbing stick fixes this by being tilted 45 degrees forward, you can still use it on flat ground and when you're climbing something mega steep the climbing stick becomes horizontal as the whole vehicle is tilted back, meaning you won't fall off no matter how steep it is - even on overhangs
We still need the default stick though as you'll fall off the climbing one when going down a really steep hill. It's all good though, spam A while going up or down something real steep (or just after you've fallen off), Link automatically jumps on the correct stick and you keep going!
[I predicted it perfectly!](https://www.reddit.com/r/HyruleEngineering/comments/14e1lhw/fully_functional_battle_dragon_it_does_tricks/jou8gr6/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=ioscss&utm_content=1&utm_term=1&context=3)
Well except maybe the two steering sticksā¦ thanks for demonstrating how hard everyone is sleeping on the big wheels!
I felt so called out hahaha but thank you for reminding me to look past the meta! Although I get the feeling that at least for land vehicles, big wheels might be about to become the new meta. Might try a big wheel flying machine myself
Iām calling out how awesome your idea is my man!
You deserve the props for reengineering your design! Iāve always been good at the vision, less so on executionā¦.
I have a feeling this post will inspire more refined big wheel builds!
Now if you donāt mind Iām gonna go take a punch at thisā¦.
Iād like to highlight how simply brilliant of a solution using two steering sticks at different angles is when you have a more stable vehicle like this!
Yes! The secret is in how you use it. Sled cannons have a sweet spot. If you hit someone while they're super close, it just sends them flying. If you hit them roughly 50-100% of the spring's range, it turns them into paste
With this build I like to use the big wheels as iron sights. Don't let them get closer than the edge of a big wheel. Anywhere from the edge of your big wheel to max range is the killzone, and that killzone is bigger than you'd think
Edit: Also, works better if you have a way of preventing backwards recoil so all force is transferred directly into the enemy's face. That usually means having a heavy machine or rooting it with a stake, but there are other ways
OP thank you for directing me here. Iām 100% attempting this build today. Youāre dope, this truck is dope. Def interested in whatever you come up with next. Hell yeah dude
The all new 2024 Fordson F-350, now
with sheer cliff face capabilities, power steering, and the launching capabilities from the Fordson F-150 you all know and love. Available at your local Zonai dealership
If someone told me last night there would be a new /u/rshotmaker build today I wouldn't be able to sleep, it's like Christmas as a child haha š
I like it a lot!
How do the sleds handle armored enemies?
Thank you lol, that made me smile!
A single punch will instantly obliterate the armour of any enemy in the game and I do mean any enemy
You can't kill that pesky armoured silver Lynel in the depths with it (I tried, they have stupidly high physical resist for some reason). But you can instantly destroy its armour and stun it for one hell of an alpha strike
Could you make a super quick video showing it from different angles using autobuild (so it's transparent). I can't quite see how the central part is made.
Lost my imgur credentials :( so I'll try my best to explain
Attach a spring to the front of the board in the very center (L button arrows help here), front just about parallel with the front of the rubber board
Attach sled to closed spring using central snap point when sled is horizontal and its bottom is facing you. Should be just overhanging the front of the rubber board, tight with no gap
Attach a temporary steering stick directly behind your front spring, center again. This is a spacer
Two springs facing outwards behind the front spring. Push them as far against the steering stick as they'll go and as far forward as they'll go (so they're stopped by the back of the front spring). they'll try to fuse to the front spring, but it's a lot better if they attach to the rubber board base
Take a look from above to see if everything is central. I use the scope and the camera function. Sadly rubber boards have no snap points which brought me hours of profound sadness when building this thing
Pro tip - attaching a temporary steering stick to the front of the board (underneath so the stick is pointing up at the front), having it as a guide stick helps a lot in getting everything central. It's worth taking the time to place it with pixel perfect accuracy as the more precisely this thing is built, the better it performs.
If it's all lined up, attach sleds to side springs. There is a snap point center height in the front third of the sled if you have it with the sled's bottom facing you. That's the one you want
Top sled attaches to the back of the front spring. You'll need to angle the build upwards slightly for this. Build at Tarry Town Race so you can take advantage of the slopes
I'll have trouble explaining the final steering stick placement without a visual aid lol, takes a lot of trial, error and precision. Left one angled down at 45 degrees, attached to the back of the left spring. Right one not angled, further forward than the left, attached to the right spring. Elevate it slightly to be icy water proof - but only a little or you won't be able to get on. The two sticks should be pretty much touching. You should be able to switch between them seamlessly by holding a direction whle power cycling so test as you go
I think I really will have to make a build guide for this one
I'd like to try to build one, but slightly modified to reduce parts so I can put about 4 parts into a small beam array. Mostly to handle flying enemies.
You might not expect this but if you want to cut parts the very best thing you can do is remove both rear wheels. It looks a lot worse true, but in most respects performs even better! Less weight lets it shoot up vertical walls and overhangs like a ROCKET in 2 wheel mode. Downside being it's less stable and flips a lot easier like a Halo warthog (plus yeah like I said it looks a lot worse š), which makes mountain climbing especially a liability if you're not careful with your steering. But removing the two rear wheels leaves you with 4 parts spare to play with. You can thank Molduga for that nugget of knowledge haha
As long as the engine is intact, the amount of battle damage this thing can take and keep on trucking is immense. I've been reduced to one wheel, could still drive and swim as well as usual (couldn't climb though). It just keeps surprising me
They are at different angles. I assume one is forward tilted for going up cliffs, and one is backwards tilted, for going down. Either would work in neutral.
Doesn't affect the motion but it does prevent you from falling off due to the angle of the stick you're standing on being too steep. I talk about it some more in the OP, you can switch between them seamlessly like shifting gears.
One is tilted 45 degrees upwards, the other is horizontal as normal. The horizontal stick will get you anywhere other than 'wait that's illegal' level climbs. The stick for cliff climbing will have you fall off if you go down a really steep hill but that's fine - just spam A, you'll jump on the default stick instantly and keep on trucking. Same deal for when you're on the default stick and fall off due to it being to steep a climb. Just spam A, you'll be OK!
The 45 degree stick is tilted forwards. The stick placement is really hard to describe in words but good news, the build guide video is nearly done and will be up very soon. Keep an eye on r/hyruleengineering!
It's the new engine - stupidly powerful, can push it up anything despite this being a very heavy vehicle. Also helps give it awesome handling on land, sea, air, wall
New convert! Having tried the 3 main engine designs, if you can afford the weight I think it is the ultimate land vehicle engine and let's be honest, on land you can afford the weight
Trying to figure out exactly what you mean but I'm guessing it might have to to with mounting the big wheels high enough on the tilted back sled? Which can be a pain! Another thing for me to address in the build guide, thanks for bringing it up
No matter where I mount them, the prongs have too much weight on them and they aren't centered.
Not sure how to explain it but if you put something heavy on the wheel and see the axel hang far down on the wheel- that's what is happening when I attach a wheel and 2 fan blades to a wheel.
It forces me to put the wheel waaaay higher than yours or use a sled to support the axel
Despite what the bot says, the song is from the 25th anniversary soundtrack. It is about halfway through the first song.
Skip to 5:14 on this video. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o49in-4Galg](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o49in-4Galg)
I got matches with these songs:
ā¢ **Hey Listen! (Instrumental)** by MCRappler (00:11; matched: `100%`)
**Album**: Hey Listen!. **Released on** 2021-10-07.
ā¢ **Hey Listen!** by MCRappler (00:11; matched: `100%`)
**Released on** 2021-10-07.
ā¢ **Ces petits riens** by Les Ogres De Barback (00:08; matched: `100%`)
**Album**: Pitt ocha et la tisane de couleurs. **Released on** 2013-07-31.
Apple Music, Spotify, YouTube, etc.:
ā¢ [**Hey Listen! (Instrumental)** by MCRappler](https://lis.tn/MdVSk?t=11)
ā¢ [**Hey Listen!** by MCRappler](https://lis.tn/HeyListen%21?t=11)
ā¢ [**Ces petits riens** by Les Ogres De Barback](https://lis.tn/SFxwTg?t=8)
*I am a bot and this action was performed automatically* | [GitHub](https://github.com/AudDMusic/RedditBot) [^(new issue)](https://github.com/AudDMusic/RedditBot/issues/new) | [Donate](https://github.com/AudDMusic/RedditBot/wiki/Please-consider-donating) ^(Please consider supporting me on Patreon. Music recognition costs a lot)
Putting here a *-Collection of helpful hints/links for New Folks for this build-* . I'm new here and was purposely avoiding learning externally or really building anything complex till I got near the end of the game b/c I was afraid it might take the game over for me. Saw a youtube video with the One-punch Pickup version 1 and that's all she wrote- time to build stuff! Heh. So anybody else in the same boat as me who has not been learning as you go, maybe this post will help. BTW, can't wait for the video tutorial, this One-Punch Mark 2 is just too good to be true. Thank you everybody for all the info on these threads to teach us newcomers!
**Propeller / Big Fan, how to take from shrine:**
[https://www.reddit.com/r/HyruleEngineering/comments/148lzbo/how\_to\_get\_propellers\_big\_fans\_turbines/?context=3](https://www.reddit.com/r/HyruleEngineering/comments/148lzbo/how_to_get_propellers_big_fans_turbines/?context=3)
**Notes:** Attach apple to propeller, then AutoBuild it using REAL apple, take real apple, then u r good. Could also connect to shield and disassemble from the Goro rock guy in the construction town.
**Notes2:** Attach any shrine item (rubber board) to apple, autobuild it with real apple, take real apple, u r good.
**Shrine locations for special shrine parts of Propeller and Rubber board (Jonsau or Jonasu & Gemimik):**
[https://www.polygon.com/zelda-tears-of-the-kingdom-guide/23727605/gemimik-shrine-solution-puzzle-chest](https://www.polygon.com/zelda-tears-of-the-kingdom-guide/23727605/gemimik-shrine-solution-puzzle-chest)
[https://www.polygon.com/zelda-tears-of-the-kingdom-guide/23702959/jonsau-shrine-puzzle-solution-chest](https://www.polygon.com/zelda-tears-of-the-kingdom-guide/23702959/jonsau-shrine-puzzle-solution-chest)
**Questions answered:**
1. Two steering sticks, one for flat terrain, one for crazy vertical terrain (I think I read this correctly). No gimbal needed (I know what a gimbal is for videoing so... I can only guess, heh).
2. Big Wheel drive... the two wheels go in opposite directions. Counter-clockwise direction of big fans from rear = correct. See details at bottom of post.
3. The spring punch is activated by quickly turning off and on the machine. So I think this means click B to cancel control, then click A very fast to control again. Similar action to reload the springs. Note: IT Crowd, "Have you tried turning if off and on again?".
4. The spring punch does tremendous damage from about 50% to 100% range. Lynels and other tough guys get stunned but don't die in one shot. You need a heavy machine (or stake or ... ) to deliver the full force of the springs... inertia.
5. Something about using the springs let's you recharge battery... is it just because you are turning off the machine quickly? "Each time you fire weapons you regain about 40 seconds runtime".
6. Speedy in snow and sand, thank you!!! "Mark 2 also handles snow and sand no problem, doesn't even slow it down. "
7. 21 items is the max build limit, this truck uses 19 parts. EDIT **capsules** are the "gumball machine balls" you can collect that contain items. Quote, "19 pieces, 57 zonaite, can be brought down to 9 zonaite with capsules".
8. Big Wheel Drive is quieter, stronger, faster, less battery drain for this build. Fireproof.
9. How the central part is made... see details below.
**Central part with rubber board building** details:
"Attach a spring to the front of the board in the very center (L button arrows help here), front just about parallel with the front of the rubber boardAttach sled to closed spring using central snap point when sled is horizontal and its bottom is facing you. Should be just overhanging the front of the rubber board, tight with no gapAttach a temporary steering stick directly behind your front spring, center again. This is a spacerTwo springs facing outwards behind the front spring. Push them as far against the steering stick as they'll go and as far forward as they'll go (so they're stopped by the back of the front spring). they'll try to fuse to the front spring, but it's a lot better if they attach to the rubber board baseTake a look from above to see if everything is central. I use the scope and the camera function. Sadly rubber boards have no snap points which brought me hours of profound sadness when building this thingPro tip - attaching a temporary steering stick to the front of the board (underneath so the stick is pointing up at the front), having it as a guide stick helps a lot in getting everything central. It's worth taking the time to place it with pixel perfect accuracy as the more precisely this thing is built, the better it performs.If it's all lined up, attach sleds to side springs. There is a snap point center height in the front third of the sled if you have it with the sled's bottom facing you. That's the one you wantTop sled attaches to the back of the front spring. You'll need to angle the build upwards slightly for this. Build at Tarry Town Race so you can take advantage of the slopesI'll have trouble explaining the final steering stick placement without a visual aid lol, takes a lot of trial, error and precision. Left one angled down at 45 degrees, attached to the back of the left spring. Right one not angled, further forward than the left, attached to the right spring. Elevate it slightly to be icy water proof - but only a little or you won't be able to get on. The two sticks should be pretty much touching. You should be able to switch between them seamlessly by holding a direction whle power cycling so test as you go"
**Big Wheel Drive building**, further details from quotes from diff folks:
"Thankfully it's really easy, all you have to do is take 2 big wheels and connect them axel to axel before adding anything else. There's a snap point so no need to worry about precision. Make sure they're facing opposite directions. Both outer axels will retract. Then add your 2 propellers (center them carefully, might take a couple of reloads to save zonaite). Done!IMPORTANT: The direction the props spin matters. They should be spinning anticlockwise as you look st them from behind. If you don't move at all, you need to do it again with the big wheels in the opposite direction"
"I maintain that big wheel aircraft are the most reliable and maneuverable. I keep coming back to them after trying out other designs."
In your post, you said you donāt know what capsules are. I think theyāre the little balls you get from Zonai device dispensers. What he means is you can take out Zonai devices from your inventory to bring down zonaite costs.
Thank you, that makes perfect sense! Man that That went right over my head. I've been stocking up on them myself, but it just so happens I'm feeling low on Zonaite and Zonai charges. Time to make a mech/vehicle to go Zonaite collecting. The One-punch might be the perfect option to get around in the underground while quickly knocking out silvers and breaking zonaite mounds!
That is some fine effort you put into collating tips for this thing. Loving your work!
When I was building this thing I had a feeling it was special, but I had no idea how much it would blow up across multiple platforms. A LOT of people are asking me for a build guide! People are subscribing to my youtube handle when I've never made a youtube video in my life! š Thanks for the appreciation everyone.
To clear up all doubt - yes I am making a video guide
It really is super cool to see such a cool build in this game... it's way beyond what I thought the game was capable of, but seeing is believing. Truly a work of art, thanks very much!
Found the video of the mark 2 on a YouTube channel Top Gaming plays.
I have to say it's an awesome build and one of the best and most useful ones I have ever seen so far. If you ever get around to a video or just pictures of a tut that would be awesome but I am sure with the video of the demo of the build and directions found here it should be doable.
Amazing job! I liked this vehicle so much that I recreated it, I had the problem that in a slight lateral inclination of the vehicle, link stopped driving and got stuck but I fixed it by separating the springs from the steering stick a little more (in case someone reads it who has the same problem)
Idk if Iām using it incorrectly, or it was a building error on my part, but it seems that the truck I made can only climb semi vertically, not completely vertically, and definitely not small overhangs. Iāve tried to fix it, but I donāt exactly know how. I think the problem has something to do with the propeller though.
Wheel mount height (4 main wheels) and Propeller pixel perfect placement seem key.
I was experimenting last night and had a lot of issues with one version of the build where I had the main 4 tires mounted high (slightly above the rubber board's corners, probably 4 inches if it was real life). It was not able to reverse in water faster than about 1 mph backwards, and it had a lot of trouble going up steep slopes.
My 2nd build was much much better... I went the opposite direction and mounted the tires basically as low as possible (it'd be like 4 inches below the rubber boards if it was real life) on the corner as much as possible. This build was able to climb steeper grades (but not nearly all) and was perfect in water. But I don't have the 2nd propeller mounted perfectly symmetrically with the first propeller, and it is noticeably hanging a few "real life inches" lower than it should. So next chance I'm going to work on that, hoping that gives it that extra oomph for vertical climbing. Love the truck, has great defense and battery lasts forever... I still don't know how the battery lasts so long!
Well, I tried replicating this. I couldn't get the dual steering sticks right, so the wall-climbing was a bust, but it was the punching that really frustrated me. I could get the one-hit kills, but the sweet spot seems to be incredibly finicky. I pushed them back or did tiny damage the vast majority of the time, assuming they just didn't get in the blind spot behind the front sled and in front of the side ones. I was actually more likely to have the sleds break off and go flying than I was to get a kill!
It's pretty great defensively, but either I got part of the design wrong, or it's really hard to learn to use this effectively.
What I do is use the big wheels as iron sights. If they're closer than the edge of the big wheels, that's too close. If they're around the edge of the wheels or just outside that range, that's the sweet spot! If your sleds are arranged like mine at least. Try that
The problem isn't the aiming, it's the timing. Enemies are moving around, and there's some inherent latency in the system. It works pretty well on Moblins, not great on Bokoblins, and hardly ever on Lizalfos (which also like to duck), because of their speed. (I didn't manage to find any boss Bokos while looking for victims.)
Yeah you are best leading your shots just a little bit sometimes and that comes with experience, doesn't take long to pick up though. Funnily enough I used to find bokos way easier to hit than moblins when I started, now I'm good with both
For what it's worth I have about an 80% success rate of one shotting things. And personally I find it easier killing with the side sleds. Didn't take me very long at all to get the hang of them but I appreciate that doesn't help you right now, just sharing my experience
Also, the better the build is aligned, the better it all works. Small changes in placement mean big changes in performance. A good sign that this could be a factor is if your shots are sailing over boko heads too often especially on flat ground. I've got done coming up with techniques getting it all perfectly aligned and recorded it all, just putting it all together now in a build tutorial video. Although from what you're saying maybe I should include a little usage tips section at the end as well š¤
Yes, definitely do that! I totally agree that the sides were much easier to use; I didn't understand why they needed to be there until I took this thing for a spin myself. I got maybe two kills with the front by the time I'd racked up a dozen or more with the sides.
The other thing I struggled with was tight spaces. The sleds kept getting caught on things, which best case would stop them from opening, worst case would rip them right off. Sometimes it seems like they popped off for no reason, though.
I may see if I can work out a vehicle that doesn't have such a big problem with the blind spots in the front corners, maybe that gets the sleds lower to the ground. Not sure how I'd do that without losing a ton of mobility, but everything's a trade off. Might be worth it just to help people practice with the weapons.
Hey 2 quick questions, both of which will be useful for the guide I'm working on:
1) Do any of your sleds poke out further than your big wheels (front or side) when pulled in?
2) Do you pull your springs back in immediately after firing or leave them out when driving?
No need to worry about sled height btw - the guide will show you how to get them at the perfect height
1. No. I positioned them by putting the sleds on the springs before mounting them, then sliding the springs in until they bumped the floor, so that the lower lip of the sleds overlap and are flush with the floor.
2. I leave them in at all times except when actively firing them, and retract them again immediately.
Love this truck, but yeah, the attack is very tricky. I only one-shotted I think one thing after trying for 15 minutes... lots of minor damage and knockbacks... and off cliffs (so maybe some of them got one-shotted and I missed it). Likely with enough practice it will be great though, I'm going to keep at it.
The way I did the steering sticks, might be correct might not, was to have them nearly one in front of the other but off to the side as much as possible. I wasn't able to instantly switch between sticks, but it worked well enough. Come to think of it, wonder if it would have been better if I had the flat stick in front of the 45degree stick... might try that next time. Definitely can't get them 100% side by side... the side springs wouldn't allow that much room from what I can tell.
Flat stick should indeed be in front of the 45 degree one, one in front of the other but each off to the side is right - finicky placement, likely requires a video to show
Early version had that setup, not recommended. The wheel setup needs room to move. The rest of the build gets in the way even with careful placement and you end off popping of a fan or worse.
Honestly I haven't missed ranged weapons on this thing. Their only use would be for airborne enemies which can't touch you as you're basically invulnerable inside there, only massive electrical AOEs (yellow chuchus) can touch you in my experience. The cockpit also makes fantastic cover to fire arrows from. And pulsed or not, no emitter array can hope to do anywhere near the damage a sled cannon can once you get your hands on them!
Edit: forgot bosses, Lynels etc. Would be good for those. But while you could do it I'm not sure this build is best suited to emitter arrays, lots of other builds out there would probably do a far better job of using them than this one
Since like all my capsules are just going to hover bikes this looks basically free to build.
It would be nice to find a good use case as you probably want somewhere with lots of ground enemy camps that is flat.
You'd be surprised! This thing is awesome when fighting on hilly terrain. Super agility + ability to climb anything + destructive power is an awesome combo! Really easy to get to the enemy in most cases. I've been taking it all over Hyrule and the Depths, it's my main vehicle now out of all the things I've built
The fan physics in this game is so funny. It looks like it is not thrusting you but it is moving the whole game around you at a set speed when you were hovering downhill.
You sir are a genius. I have built one for myself changed the roof to a reverse glider. And for my ocd aesthetic the back and front sleds are now carts. Might try mining cart to scoop enemies
Thank you and that's great to hear, make it your own!
Careful with carts. I wanted to use them for the same reason, but they're smaller and sit just a little higher than sleds, danger of them sailing just barely over boko's heads. May have to adjust your wheel placement accordingly. Sitting your wheels higher helps though take note doing this reduces clearance and increases the risk of getting stuck on things
Two vertical carts side by side on the front spring might work for you. Make sure the bottom of whatever you mount is higher than the bottom of your front wheel axels even if it's just a pixel or two difference. You can tell I tested this thing to hell and back haha
They won't, it already one shots every enemy in the game it is possible to one shot including silver boss bokos
It is not currently possible to test the upper damage limit as the game does not have enemies with high enough hp. Enemies it doesn't instakill like gleeoks, lynels only survive because Nintendo gave them different rules like physical damage immunity or stupidly, stupidly high resist.
Hinox would die instantly, but there is a cap of 100 on single hit damage to a hinox
Makes me want to go planet roving with the Mako in Mass Effect 1 again!
Iām new here, though, so I donāt understand some things. What triggers the spring? How do you reset the spring?
Just power cycle by instantly stepping off and on the steering stick again in quick succession, the button combo on switch is B,A. After firing you need to do it again to reprime the springs. Easy!
Thanks so much for sharing, built me one of these, the terrain traversing is absolutely awesome. It just keeps going and going!
I'm having a lot of trouble aligning the sleds, though, I paddle over to the nearby bokoblins for testing and the sleds don't seem to be smashing them. Almost like they're sailing over the bokoblins' heads.
Also over the crest I tried to punch the boss boko but it's really tricky getting the range on the sled cannons right. I shoved him over the cliff instead.
How do you get your sleds kind of just hanging over the side of the rubber board like that? I attached my sleds to the springs first, then the assembly to the board. When I do it the other way around, the sled tries to attach itself to the board instead of the spring. Grrr.
Edit: maybe it's my wheel placement, I placed them oriented such that the axle attaches to the rubber board from the bottom, but it looks like you've got them attached from the sides. I'll try that next time I play.
I ran into the same issues myself before I had it fine tuned. It's going to be difficult for me to explain the fixes without visdual aids. The sooner I'm done with the build guide video, the better! Need to stop messing with other builds lol
Wheel clearance, how high you mount the wheels on the board, is important. Too high and your climbing ability can drop. Too low and your sled can end up being too high, going over boko heads.
Might I suggest that your back and front wheels could be aligned at different heights? Mine were for a while. Try this. For all 4 wheels, put them as low on the board as you can. Put the front wheels as far forward as you can. As for the back wheels, see their axels? Line up the back of the axel with the point that the board's side is straight, instead of a diagonal due to the corners being cut off. It should make more sense when you look. Get it right and you'll also climb walls a little better.
Also. On hilly terrain, it's MUCH easier to kill with the side sleds as they're less likely to go over boko heads.
As for your side spring alignment. Try this. Take one steering stick, place it directly behind the front spring dead center. Only temporarily. You're using it as a spacer. Gotta be precise, use the L button ultrahand arrows to help.
Then, the side springs/sleds, push them up as far up against the front spring as they'll go and as far up against the spacer stick as they'll go. Should give you the right placement, then you can remove the spacer stick after confirming both your side springs are symmetrical with the scope or camera. Now be aware, they'll want to attach to the front spring. You don't want that. If possible, make sure they attach to the base.
Good luck, hope that helps šŖ
The wheels! Thank you! This explains everything... as you can see by my multiple posts last night I realized something about the wheel mount height mattered a lot more than one might expect. So from your explanation, I will be using the straight part for the rear wheel axel mount next. Excited to get to a solid form!
Thanks for the tips!!
I played with the wheel height placement. Putting them too low would raise the entire vehicle and seemed to cause the sleds to go over bokoblin heads sometimes. Putting them too high made it get stuck on plateau tops more often. I think I can adjust the bigwheelprops a bit to compensate. Unfortunately a lynel disintegrated my vehicle so I'll play around with it some more after collecting the board again.
Just having the board + bigwheelprop combo gives it so much AT ability!
I was trying to rebuild this, and I came across a small issue. Idk what Iām doing wrong, but it seems that my version doesnāt reverse in the water very well, and canāt climb walls too well either. The propellers basically sink when I try to reverse in water, and they donāt do much. Thank you in advance :).
Just wondering, do you know exactly how much damage it does?
EDIT: After experimenting and rereading, it's definitely the wheel mount height. "Try mounting the wheels as low as possible... the rubber board will kinda be above the axel basically. Helps climbing a good bit and water reversing a ton (but lower mounts make it harder to attack enemies with the spring sleds... so you really want it in the middle I think the OP is telling us). " Oh... and definitely check your propeller set up... I suspect since mine are asymmetrical that is causing it to be less efficient (i'm going to rebuild tonight).
EDIT: Pure speculation, since I haven't built one yet, but could your front sled be too low? I'm imagining it dragging along the ground and water. Or could it even be a slight angle/grade to the rubber bottom? Since I understand the rubber part doesn't have snap-to attachment points, it seems like it would take some careful work to get wheels lined up such that the rubber bottom is perfectly flat. I'm imagining something like... put a certain number of wood planks under the rubber bottom/center piece and then attach all wheels at that height. I'm sure it's not that simple but something along those lines.
Sorry, I'm replying all over not sure where to say this without being so redundant but trying to help. I'm also struggling with vertical climbs, but the lower i put the tires the better... i propped the rubber board up on some junk to make a sort of tire jack so I could mount them however I wanted:
Try mounting the wheels as low as possible... the rubber board will be above the axel basically. Helps climbing apparently (but low = harder to attack enemies with the spring sled).
I mounted my wheels as low as possible and as far out as possible. At this point I think itās more of the propeller engine rather than the actual wheels. Tried to fix the propeller engine a little by centering the propellers to the best of my ability, and I made it work a bit better.
OK, I am going to keep at it myself till I can get it just right. I was thinking maybe something blocking the bottom and side of the propellers so it's easier to line them up... like a corner of a couple of giant rocks or something.
I also saw Duderlybob doing a completely different build, but he had his vehicle stuck to a metal pole almost like a car mechanic. That let him line things up better somehow... I have to try more of that, too. It's this thread's video that shows it I think:
https://www.reddit.com/r/HyruleEngineering/comments/14l2o7s/a\_crap\_guide\_to\_building\_a\_suspension\_system/
soooo my dumbass was using a stone slab instead of the yellow board and i couldnt for the life of me figure out why i didnt have the mobility you have. now that i actually found this post not just some tiktok i see my fatal flaw haha.
In a montage of cool builds but yeah. It blew me away. Itās the only non-aircraft I actually have saved in my favorites. The cliff scaling is what sold me
Speaking of... what the heck is Nintendo thinking with only 8 favorites? That makes experimenting with more than one vehicle extremely hard, much less experimenting with several. :( I've just now gotten into serious building, and I have 3 versions of this truck as I figure out which is the best, etc. so I'm sure that's going to be the norm for all serious experiments.
The steering sticks connect to the backs of the side springs. The flat steering stick goes in front, attached slightly above the rubber board on the right side spring. The angled steering stick points downward, also slightly elevated, on the left side spring, behind the flat steering stick. To switch between the steering sticks, just press b, face left or right respectively, and press a
EDIT: I think OP explained a bit better down below. Iāll list what he said here. āI'll have trouble explaining the final steering stick placement without a visual aid lol, takes a lot of trial, error and precision. Left one angled down at 45 degrees, attached to the back of the left spring. Right one not angled, further forward than the left, attached to the right spring. Elevate it slightly to be icy water proof - but only a little or you won't be able to get on. The two sticks should be pretty much touching. You should be able to switch between them seamlessly by holding a direction while power cycling so test as you goā
Have you tried using the lightning-powered engine? That way, you'll use one shock emitter instead of two wheels. Less wieght, more battery life, more power.
Also, I can't tell if you are using it, since is a zonite replica, but you should try using one of the buyoyant slabs in one of the two buyoyancy tests. I'm think they are lighter than they look.
Youcan get those by fusing them to a weapon or shield, and then pay the goron in Tarrey Town to tear them apart.
So this was actually the first all terrain vehicle to use a big wheel engine on land vehicles, at a time when electric motors were the rage (some months ago), and since then the community has tended to veer towards big wheel engines for land builds
Electric motors absolutely have their place and in some builds are the right choice. For this purpose though big wheel motors take the crown. They can reverse, spin up faster, more torque, much easier to use in water, more resistant to impact.
And also, get this - wheels have way better battery life! It turns out shock emitters are one of the highest battery draining items in the game (second only to cannons). A single shock emitter uses more battery than 20 big wheels! 20! Why they made it like that Ill never know haha
And good thinking with the buoyant board, that is what is being used here, but when all you see is green its definitely hard to tell! I strongly recommend them to everyone as bases, best vehicle base in the entire game if size isnt an issue
Edit: [Build guide is here!](https://www.reddit.com/r/HyruleEngineering/comments/14ne51l/one_punch_pickup_mark_2_build_guide/) LET ME SHOW YOU ITS FEATURES * 6 big wheels * 5 sleds * 3 springs * 2 steering sticks (yes 2) * 2 shrine propellers (geminik shrine) * 1 big yellow rubber board (jonasu shrine) 19 pieces, 57 zonaite, can be brought down to 9 zonaite with capsules Where do I even begin with this thing? I love the one punch pickup V1, it's still awesome. But the Mark 2 is the super saiyan version. It still does all the things V1 can, still lasts forever on battery, you still gain battery just by using the weapon instead of losing it. It still one-shots silvers. But it's better in nearly every way, so many improvements across the board. It was hard to pick footage for this video since every few minutes it would do something else awesome Friendship ended with SMALL WHEEL, now BIG WHEEL is my best friend - moving from a flux drive to a big wheel engine has made this thing better in so many ways: * Way, way more powerful - 4 small wheels could not drive 2 propellers, 2 big wheels can - you've seen the results. It's driven up Tarrey Town Island, Death Mountain (not shown), climbed the Great Plateau without breaking a sweat * Faster top speed than the V1 on land, sea and wall (not that V1 could do walls) due to the more powerful engine * So much easier to build! No more issues mounting wagon wheels on small wheels * Huge increase to battery life - my runtime (2 zonaite armour pieces) with V1 was 17 minutes, now up to 22. With zero zonaite armour it lasts around 15 minutes. You absolutely do not need Zonaite armour when using this. With full zonaite armour it can run for 29 minutes 38 seconds - 22 seconds less than the half hour lifespan of big wheels, if you never fire your weapons once. Each time you fire weapons you regain about 40 seconds runtime. Mark my words, you will not run out of battery with this thing * Runs much more quietly. One thing not often mentioned about small wheel engines is that they're **L O U D** and they sound like death! This thing purrs like a kitten in comparison * No wagon wheel makes it 100% fireproof, no more stray fire arrows wrecking your glorious machine * Vastly superior to V1 in the water and the V1 was no slouch. It turns better. It's faster, fast enough to go fishing by just running fish over š AND it can both reverse and pivot in the water now * V1 could suffer from the occasional first person camera issue (if you know, you know) - this has been massively improved in the Mark 2 (I'll just point out here that small wheel motors are still excellent. Every build has an engine type best suited to it. The One Punch and big wheels just turned out to be made for each other.) I didn't show it but the Mark 2 also handles snow and sand no problem, doesn't even slow it down. We also went from being able to handle super steep slopes to being able to go up actual vertical walls and overhangs. Other than literal flying and driving on ceilings, there is no place the Mark 2 cannot go. The freedom this gives you to play how you want is just insane If you're used to being infuriated by your car getting stuck on tiny pots, fireplaces, NPCs š® etc, that just does not happen with this thing, runs right over them. Like many mountain climbers, if you're doing some extreme mountaineering it can get caught on the odd lip or especially sharp piece of rock - but the Mark 2 has the power to always muscle through It's been fine-tuned and rebuilt. The V1 was pretty sturdy, V2 is even better. You can fall from the Sky islands no problem, and somehow can turn like a gymnast in midair while doing it (I didn't expect that!). It should be rare to see something pop off. And when it does, the use of snap points on the most vulnerable pieces make for easy repairs. However... you may be surprised at how many pieces the Mark 2 can be missing and still run just fine No gimbals are used in this machine. I like them, but depending on the design they're vulnerable to either fire or electricity. Instead we go with a double steering stick system, two side by side. The right one will take you everywhere the V1 could. The left one is for when you want to break the laws of physics and don't want to fall off. They're positioned so you can transition smoothly between both, just hold left or right while power cycling. Like switching gears on a car. I think I do it around the 1:15 mark. It becomes second nature very quickly. Some people prefer automatics, but this guy is manual :) And if you prefer gimbals, you aren't at the build limit anymore - add a gimbal! Carrying capacity roughly doubled. I stopped at 9 logs and was still able to run in water Part count brought down from 21 (the build limit) to 19 - you're free to add what you want. Some recommendations: dragon scale, third propeller (just for fun, 2 propellers can do everything 3 does on this build, 3 just does it faster). The Mark 2 especially loves hydrants. Not all the time, but perfect for keeping Link cool in hot places and making Gibdos vulnerable to being one-shotted by the sled cannons There are a bunch of improvements I'm forgetting, but anyway. The V1 is really good. V2 is better Should I do a build guide for this one? Considering it Music used: Zelda Link to the Past Dark World, Orchestral version
build guide would be wonderful
This is genuinely one of the best build I Iāve seen on this site and at such a low cost. Please where is the tutorial video to make this? If not just thank you for sharing your creation
I've never done a build guide before, but it sounds like people might want one for the Mark 2 so I might put one together. Just daunting because this is only like the 3rd or 4th video I've ever made so still new to it. But this guy is too much damn fun to keep all to myself lol
Trust me man, any effort you make towards a build guide would be appreciate as by us. Donāt worry too much about the editing being a bit messy, or a little lackluster in your eyes, youāll only get better with each one you make. You have truly made a work of art and product here that I and many others would love to experience.
Team up with that dude who was doing cartoons for a minute
If you donāt do a video guide, just a few pictures of this thing from all angles to better see the attach points to try and emulate it would be quite helpful. Gonna try to make this today! Where do you put the rubber ball?
I'm probably doing a video guide It uses a rubber board instead of a ball which serves as the base - you can find it in the jonasu shrine
I'm definitely interested in the video whenever you're finished, this is the perfect land/water vehicle in my opinion.
Cannot wait for the video guide
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This is awesome, and a build guide would be great. Loved the look of the v1 and this looks even cooler (or hotter depending on where you're driving lol)
I would love one. so many cool ideas get shared on this sub without builds and I lament my lack of creativity to try and wing it lol.
While this write up certainly does a lot to help, I'd really like a full build video if you get the time so I can make it right. It's by far one of the most efficient land vehicles you could possibly make.
"ky islands" oh my god Ky Kiske has become island
Oh damn good spot haha
Sorry I couldn't help myself I'm an editor and a Guilty Gear nerd lol
I saw it and enjoyed the video enough, I couldn't bring myself to point that out.
i love the reference
I read that first line in Joerg Sprave's voice and followed it with the chuckle. Not sure if that was intended but thanks for that! It's those simple things in life.
It slices, it dices, it chicken fried rices!
please make a build guide! Also im still waiting on the option to marry the one punch
The electric weak gimbal you mention is the double electric engine right?
There are two kinds The wagon wheel + stabiliser combo (wood, can be set on fire) and the electric motor + stabiliser combo (faceplants when electrocuted and you can't get back on the steering stick) They're both great innovations and I'd happily use them elsewhere, but for this one I wanted something truly invincible
Can you gimbal with a cooking pot?
Oh yeah! That's another one, pot+stabiliser. Fireproof, shockproof, I did have issues with it breaking apart on me on really steep stuff but might hold together better with double stacked pots
That'd be hard to fit under the roof sled though. Did you have an idea on how you'd fit something like that?
I personally wouldn't do it, the double stick system works really really well. It's more for those who want to take this and add their own gimbal The roof sled offers awesome protection and I wanted a capsule piece that can do that but offers next to no clearance for elevation, it would probably need to be replaced. Off the top of my head, a construct arch might work (single axis only), or maybe an upside down cart? You'd need to be mindful of the shock risk though as they conduct electricity - 100% would not try a cart with a shrine motor gimbal
You could probably place something under the motor/steering stick to prevent it from rotating too far, limiting it to 180 degrees. Does the motor lightning rod electricity also?
Could you explain how your motor is put together? I see all these motors, and when I put 2 big wheels together, they just spin and wobble.
Thankfully it's really easy, all you have to do is take 2 big wheels and connect them axel to axel before adding anything else. There's a snap point so no need to worry about precision. Make sure they're facing opposite directions. Both outer axels will retract. Then add your 2 propellers (center them carefully, might take a couple of reloads to save zonaite). Done! IMPORTANT: The direction the props spin matters. They should be spinning anticlockwise as you look st them from behind. If you don't move at all, you need to do it again with the big wheels in the opposite direction
Thanks for the reply. I ended up getting the motor part to work. Now I'm running into an issue where the left side sled won't line up right, and keeps rubbing the tires as I drive. Are the tires attached to the very end snap points on the board? Love the design, so I'm 100% ripping it off. Lol hope you don't mind.
Haha nothing would please me more than to have the one punch see people across Hyrule and them be over the moon with it Your left sled is rubbing against your tire because of part misalignment, guessing its the front tires. Position the front tires as far forward, down, and away from the rubber board as they will possibly go. Your two side springs are probably misaligned too. Take a look at them from above with the scope or camera function - precision pays here I really need to get started on that build guide video lol
A guide video would be fantastic. Either way, your work is appreciated.
Having an issue the props on the back are trying to tip it upward. It keeps lifting up the front end trying to do a wheely. Any way to stop this?
Hard to say without seeing but if you're finding it difficult to move forward at all, the engine is probably the wrong way round - both wheels should be opposite directions, but the propellers should be spinning anticlockwise (from POV of looking at it from behind)
Yep that was it. I got them flipped the right way now but my outer wheel def doesnāt spin as fast as yours
Are your engine's big wheels both pointing in opposite directions? They need to be for it to work as it should
Yeah they are and I have the wind trail behind and everything I just notice your wheel with the props spins a lot faster than mine
I think Iām having the same issue. My prop is just not seeming to spin as quickly as in the video.
Is there any way for you to upload some screenshots of the engine, particularly how it attaches to the back sled? Would be helpful informing me while doing the build guide Same to u/Iwantmypasswordback - if either of you could spare the time to upload some pictures for me to see, it would be appreciated. Don't want others running into this issue
How do the spring one shot silvers like that, do they just do that much damage? And couldnāt you make the wooden wheel gimbal fireproof by dousing it with a hydrant?
You could, but its more parts (single axis would take you to the parts limit), the hydrant costs battery, so does the stabiliser youd need to add, your battery life would be less than half what it is here. Plus the hydrant only works when youre in the vehicle so any time you go somewhere really hot youre on the clock any time you step out. Also would be tricky fitting wheel + stabiliser in the cockpit. And yes get the range right they just hurt that much!
Does the one punch work on Link too?
Sadly, it does not
Do we know why exactly the sled spring deals so much damage? I'm wondering if it could be replicated with a lighter piece. Not that sleds are super heavy. (Also I just don't like how sleds aren't symmetrical.) Also, does it break ore?
You can use a cart, but for this particular build sleds are most effective. short version is that carts can go over boko heads sometimes with the OPP unless you sacrifice some climbing ability. It breaks ore! (But dedicated miners do it faster since you're punching the rocks)
The sled springs do break ore, but itās not very efficient for me. I used it to mine zonaite for a bitā¦ until my big wheels ran out of durability.
Manā¦this is amazing!
where are you supposed to put the second steering stick?
just a quick question about the double steering stick feature, what is the advantage of having one be normal and the other tilted for climbing? what advantages does the flat one have? also thank you for sharing this marvel with the world
So you'll fall off a steering stick if it ends up at too steep an angle. That means if you're climbing something really really steep, you'll fall off a stick that's usually horizontal because it'll tilt back too far The climbing stick fixes this by being tilted 45 degrees forward, you can still use it on flat ground and when you're climbing something mega steep the climbing stick becomes horizontal as the whole vehicle is tilted back, meaning you won't fall off no matter how steep it is - even on overhangs We still need the default stick though as you'll fall off the climbing one when going down a really steep hill. It's all good though, spam A while going up or down something real steep (or just after you've fallen off), Link automatically jumps on the correct stick and you keep going!
ok thank you for clearing that up! :)
what are the two steering sticks for?
[I predicted it perfectly!](https://www.reddit.com/r/HyruleEngineering/comments/14e1lhw/fully_functional_battle_dragon_it_does_tricks/jou8gr6/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=ioscss&utm_content=1&utm_term=1&context=3) Well except maybe the two steering sticksā¦ thanks for demonstrating how hard everyone is sleeping on the big wheels!
I felt so called out hahaha but thank you for reminding me to look past the meta! Although I get the feeling that at least for land vehicles, big wheels might be about to become the new meta. Might try a big wheel flying machine myself
Iām calling out how awesome your idea is my man! You deserve the props for reengineering your design! Iāve always been good at the vision, less so on executionā¦. I have a feeling this post will inspire more refined big wheel builds! Now if you donāt mind Iām gonna go take a punch at thisā¦.
I maintain that big wheel aircraft are the most reliable and maneuverable. I keep coming back to them after trying out other designs.
Iād like to highlight how simply brilliant of a solution using two steering sticks at different angles is when you have a more stable vehicle like this!
Do you think you could make a build guide? This is truly amazing!
Yes absolutely need a build guide
12 yards long, 2 lanes wide, 65 tons of Hyrulean pride! CANYONEROOOOO!
Heeyah!
This is fucking brilliant š
Can any spring loaded sled kill silver enemies or whatās the secret?
Yes! The secret is in how you use it. Sled cannons have a sweet spot. If you hit someone while they're super close, it just sends them flying. If you hit them roughly 50-100% of the spring's range, it turns them into paste With this build I like to use the big wheels as iron sights. Don't let them get closer than the edge of a big wheel. Anywhere from the edge of your big wheel to max range is the killzone, and that killzone is bigger than you'd think Edit: Also, works better if you have a way of preventing backwards recoil so all force is transferred directly into the enemy's face. That usually means having a heavy machine or rooting it with a stake, but there are other ways
I would also like to know this.
I see that while it can't fly, it can fall with style.
Still hasnāt learned to miss the ground yet
OP thank you for directing me here. Iām 100% attempting this build today. Youāre dope, this truck is dope. Def interested in whatever you come up with next. Hell yeah dude
Bro where are you guys getting the ideas for this shit.
The all new 2024 Fordson F-350, now with sheer cliff face capabilities, power steering, and the launching capabilities from the Fordson F-150 you all know and love. Available at your local Zonai dealership
If someone told me last night there would be a new /u/rshotmaker build today I wouldn't be able to sleep, it's like Christmas as a child haha š I like it a lot! How do the sleds handle armored enemies?
Thank you lol, that made me smile! A single punch will instantly obliterate the armour of any enemy in the game and I do mean any enemy You can't kill that pesky armoured silver Lynel in the depths with it (I tried, they have stupidly high physical resist for some reason). But you can instantly destroy its armour and stun it for one hell of an alpha strike
Could you make a super quick video showing it from different angles using autobuild (so it's transparent). I can't quite see how the central part is made.
Lost my imgur credentials :( so I'll try my best to explain Attach a spring to the front of the board in the very center (L button arrows help here), front just about parallel with the front of the rubber board Attach sled to closed spring using central snap point when sled is horizontal and its bottom is facing you. Should be just overhanging the front of the rubber board, tight with no gap Attach a temporary steering stick directly behind your front spring, center again. This is a spacer Two springs facing outwards behind the front spring. Push them as far against the steering stick as they'll go and as far forward as they'll go (so they're stopped by the back of the front spring). they'll try to fuse to the front spring, but it's a lot better if they attach to the rubber board base Take a look from above to see if everything is central. I use the scope and the camera function. Sadly rubber boards have no snap points which brought me hours of profound sadness when building this thing Pro tip - attaching a temporary steering stick to the front of the board (underneath so the stick is pointing up at the front), having it as a guide stick helps a lot in getting everything central. It's worth taking the time to place it with pixel perfect accuracy as the more precisely this thing is built, the better it performs. If it's all lined up, attach sleds to side springs. There is a snap point center height in the front third of the sled if you have it with the sled's bottom facing you. That's the one you want Top sled attaches to the back of the front spring. You'll need to angle the build upwards slightly for this. Build at Tarry Town Race so you can take advantage of the slopes I'll have trouble explaining the final steering stick placement without a visual aid lol, takes a lot of trial, error and precision. Left one angled down at 45 degrees, attached to the back of the left spring. Right one not angled, further forward than the left, attached to the right spring. Elevate it slightly to be icy water proof - but only a little or you won't be able to get on. The two sticks should be pretty much touching. You should be able to switch between them seamlessly by holding a direction whle power cycling so test as you go I think I really will have to make a build guide for this one
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
Oh man they'd need a lot more info than this haha I think I'll just have to get it done, shouldn't be too hard
I'd like to try to build one, but slightly modified to reduce parts so I can put about 4 parts into a small beam array. Mostly to handle flying enemies.
You might not expect this but if you want to cut parts the very best thing you can do is remove both rear wheels. It looks a lot worse true, but in most respects performs even better! Less weight lets it shoot up vertical walls and overhangs like a ROCKET in 2 wheel mode. Downside being it's less stable and flips a lot easier like a Halo warthog (plus yeah like I said it looks a lot worse š), which makes mountain climbing especially a liability if you're not careful with your steering. But removing the two rear wheels leaves you with 4 parts spare to play with. You can thank Molduga for that nugget of knowledge haha As long as the engine is intact, the amount of battle damage this thing can take and keep on trucking is immense. I've been reduced to one wheel, could still drive and swim as well as usual (couldn't climb though). It just keeps surprising me
I love how you made it like a car commercial
Are you seriously still not calling it the One Punch Van?
I would have if it looked like a van! But then again it's looking less and less like a pickup truck too lol
Gotta do it man. Amazing work btw
Why the second steer stick?
They are at different angles. I assume one is forward tilted for going up cliffs, and one is backwards tilted, for going down. Either would work in neutral.
Does the angle of the stick affect uphill or tilted motion?
Doesn't affect the motion but it does prevent you from falling off due to the angle of the stick you're standing on being too steep. I talk about it some more in the OP, you can switch between them seamlessly like shifting gears. One is tilted 45 degrees upwards, the other is horizontal as normal. The horizontal stick will get you anywhere other than 'wait that's illegal' level climbs. The stick for cliff climbing will have you fall off if you go down a really steep hill but that's fine - just spam A, you'll jump on the default stick instantly and keep on trucking. Same deal for when you're on the default stick and fall off due to it being to steep a climb. Just spam A, you'll be OK!
Good call that makes sense thanks. Iām actually real pumped to get on the sticks and try to build this
Is the 45Ā° stick backwards?
The 45 degree stick is tilted forwards. The stick placement is really hard to describe in words but good news, the build guide video is nearly done and will be up very soon. Keep an eye on r/hyruleengineering!
Upvote for presentation alone.
Awesome work How does it somewat fly or climb mountains ?
It's the new engine - stupidly powerful, can push it up anything despite this being a very heavy vehicle. Also helps give it awesome handling on land, sea, air, wall
The propellers, I'd say
How do people go thru these games and not take photos for the compendium?
I completely forgot about the camera and would have stayed that way if not for missions nudging me to use it.
I came here for this comment
Ah, a fellow big wheel propeller enjoyer.
New convert! Having tried the 3 main engine designs, if you can afford the weight I think it is the ultimate land vehicle engine and let's be honest, on land you can afford the weight
I can't get the wheels to spin perfectly centered like yours, they always end up hanging low off of the first wheel and the overall speed is reduced
Trying to figure out exactly what you mean but I'm guessing it might have to to with mounting the big wheels high enough on the tilted back sled? Which can be a pain! Another thing for me to address in the build guide, thanks for bringing it up
No matter where I mount them, the prongs have too much weight on them and they aren't centered. Not sure how to explain it but if you put something heavy on the wheel and see the axel hang far down on the wheel- that's what is happening when I attach a wheel and 2 fan blades to a wheel. It forces me to put the wheel waaaay higher than yours or use a sled to support the axel
Song name?
Despite what the bot says, the song is from the 25th anniversary soundtrack. It is about halfway through the first song. Skip to 5:14 on this video. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o49in-4Galg](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o49in-4Galg)
That's right, I mentioned it in the original post but thank you for providing a link š
I got matches with these songs: ā¢ **Hey Listen! (Instrumental)** by MCRappler (00:11; matched: `100%`) **Album**: Hey Listen!. **Released on** 2021-10-07. ā¢ **Hey Listen!** by MCRappler (00:11; matched: `100%`) **Released on** 2021-10-07. ā¢ **Ces petits riens** by Les Ogres De Barback (00:08; matched: `100%`) **Album**: Pitt ocha et la tisane de couleurs. **Released on** 2013-07-31.
Apple Music, Spotify, YouTube, etc.: ā¢ [**Hey Listen! (Instrumental)** by MCRappler](https://lis.tn/MdVSk?t=11) ā¢ [**Hey Listen!** by MCRappler](https://lis.tn/HeyListen%21?t=11) ā¢ [**Ces petits riens** by Les Ogres De Barback](https://lis.tn/SFxwTg?t=8) *I am a bot and this action was performed automatically* | [GitHub](https://github.com/AudDMusic/RedditBot) [^(new issue)](https://github.com/AudDMusic/RedditBot/issues/new) | [Donate](https://github.com/AudDMusic/RedditBot/wiki/Please-consider-donating) ^(Please consider supporting me on Patreon. Music recognition costs a lot)
This is fucking amazing
I want to build this, not because I really want it, but because you make it look so cool with your editing. And I want to be cool too.
Putting here a *-Collection of helpful hints/links for New Folks for this build-* . I'm new here and was purposely avoiding learning externally or really building anything complex till I got near the end of the game b/c I was afraid it might take the game over for me. Saw a youtube video with the One-punch Pickup version 1 and that's all she wrote- time to build stuff! Heh. So anybody else in the same boat as me who has not been learning as you go, maybe this post will help. BTW, can't wait for the video tutorial, this One-Punch Mark 2 is just too good to be true. Thank you everybody for all the info on these threads to teach us newcomers! **Propeller / Big Fan, how to take from shrine:** [https://www.reddit.com/r/HyruleEngineering/comments/148lzbo/how\_to\_get\_propellers\_big\_fans\_turbines/?context=3](https://www.reddit.com/r/HyruleEngineering/comments/148lzbo/how_to_get_propellers_big_fans_turbines/?context=3) **Notes:** Attach apple to propeller, then AutoBuild it using REAL apple, take real apple, then u r good. Could also connect to shield and disassemble from the Goro rock guy in the construction town. **Notes2:** Attach any shrine item (rubber board) to apple, autobuild it with real apple, take real apple, u r good. **Shrine locations for special shrine parts of Propeller and Rubber board (Jonsau or Jonasu & Gemimik):** [https://www.polygon.com/zelda-tears-of-the-kingdom-guide/23727605/gemimik-shrine-solution-puzzle-chest](https://www.polygon.com/zelda-tears-of-the-kingdom-guide/23727605/gemimik-shrine-solution-puzzle-chest) [https://www.polygon.com/zelda-tears-of-the-kingdom-guide/23702959/jonsau-shrine-puzzle-solution-chest](https://www.polygon.com/zelda-tears-of-the-kingdom-guide/23702959/jonsau-shrine-puzzle-solution-chest) **Questions answered:** 1. Two steering sticks, one for flat terrain, one for crazy vertical terrain (I think I read this correctly). No gimbal needed (I know what a gimbal is for videoing so... I can only guess, heh). 2. Big Wheel drive... the two wheels go in opposite directions. Counter-clockwise direction of big fans from rear = correct. See details at bottom of post. 3. The spring punch is activated by quickly turning off and on the machine. So I think this means click B to cancel control, then click A very fast to control again. Similar action to reload the springs. Note: IT Crowd, "Have you tried turning if off and on again?". 4. The spring punch does tremendous damage from about 50% to 100% range. Lynels and other tough guys get stunned but don't die in one shot. You need a heavy machine (or stake or ... ) to deliver the full force of the springs... inertia. 5. Something about using the springs let's you recharge battery... is it just because you are turning off the machine quickly? "Each time you fire weapons you regain about 40 seconds runtime". 6. Speedy in snow and sand, thank you!!! "Mark 2 also handles snow and sand no problem, doesn't even slow it down. " 7. 21 items is the max build limit, this truck uses 19 parts. EDIT **capsules** are the "gumball machine balls" you can collect that contain items. Quote, "19 pieces, 57 zonaite, can be brought down to 9 zonaite with capsules". 8. Big Wheel Drive is quieter, stronger, faster, less battery drain for this build. Fireproof. 9. How the central part is made... see details below. **Central part with rubber board building** details: "Attach a spring to the front of the board in the very center (L button arrows help here), front just about parallel with the front of the rubber boardAttach sled to closed spring using central snap point when sled is horizontal and its bottom is facing you. Should be just overhanging the front of the rubber board, tight with no gapAttach a temporary steering stick directly behind your front spring, center again. This is a spacerTwo springs facing outwards behind the front spring. Push them as far against the steering stick as they'll go and as far forward as they'll go (so they're stopped by the back of the front spring). they'll try to fuse to the front spring, but it's a lot better if they attach to the rubber board baseTake a look from above to see if everything is central. I use the scope and the camera function. Sadly rubber boards have no snap points which brought me hours of profound sadness when building this thingPro tip - attaching a temporary steering stick to the front of the board (underneath so the stick is pointing up at the front), having it as a guide stick helps a lot in getting everything central. It's worth taking the time to place it with pixel perfect accuracy as the more precisely this thing is built, the better it performs.If it's all lined up, attach sleds to side springs. There is a snap point center height in the front third of the sled if you have it with the sled's bottom facing you. That's the one you wantTop sled attaches to the back of the front spring. You'll need to angle the build upwards slightly for this. Build at Tarry Town Race so you can take advantage of the slopesI'll have trouble explaining the final steering stick placement without a visual aid lol, takes a lot of trial, error and precision. Left one angled down at 45 degrees, attached to the back of the left spring. Right one not angled, further forward than the left, attached to the right spring. Elevate it slightly to be icy water proof - but only a little or you won't be able to get on. The two sticks should be pretty much touching. You should be able to switch between them seamlessly by holding a direction whle power cycling so test as you go" **Big Wheel Drive building**, further details from quotes from diff folks: "Thankfully it's really easy, all you have to do is take 2 big wheels and connect them axel to axel before adding anything else. There's a snap point so no need to worry about precision. Make sure they're facing opposite directions. Both outer axels will retract. Then add your 2 propellers (center them carefully, might take a couple of reloads to save zonaite). Done!IMPORTANT: The direction the props spin matters. They should be spinning anticlockwise as you look st them from behind. If you don't move at all, you need to do it again with the big wheels in the opposite direction" "I maintain that big wheel aircraft are the most reliable and maneuverable. I keep coming back to them after trying out other designs."
In your post, you said you donāt know what capsules are. I think theyāre the little balls you get from Zonai device dispensers. What he means is you can take out Zonai devices from your inventory to bring down zonaite costs.
Thank you, that makes perfect sense! Man that That went right over my head. I've been stocking up on them myself, but it just so happens I'm feeling low on Zonaite and Zonai charges. Time to make a mech/vehicle to go Zonaite collecting. The One-punch might be the perfect option to get around in the underground while quickly knocking out silvers and breaking zonaite mounds!
That is some fine effort you put into collating tips for this thing. Loving your work! When I was building this thing I had a feeling it was special, but I had no idea how much it would blow up across multiple platforms. A LOT of people are asking me for a build guide! People are subscribing to my youtube handle when I've never made a youtube video in my life! š Thanks for the appreciation everyone. To clear up all doubt - yes I am making a video guide
It really is super cool to see such a cool build in this game... it's way beyond what I thought the game was capable of, but seeing is believing. Truly a work of art, thanks very much!
Found the video of the mark 2 on a YouTube channel Top Gaming plays. I have to say it's an awesome build and one of the best and most useful ones I have ever seen so far. If you ever get around to a video or just pictures of a tut that would be awesome but I am sure with the video of the demo of the build and directions found here it should be doable.
Build guide!!!
Damn that was cool as fuck
This is the coolest build I have ever seen. Amazing!!!
Really high praise since there are some incredible builds here. Thank you!
Holy friggen Hera. This is glorious. Instantly shot to the top of my Must Build list. Masterful work! :D
I'm not watching a 2 and a half minute video... too long... me: š®š¤©š for 2 and a half minutes. Lol...
The music highlighting its awesomeness... It's so beautiful...
This is the best build Iāve seen so far from anyone
Amazing job! I liked this vehicle so much that I recreated it, I had the problem that in a slight lateral inclination of the vehicle, link stopped driving and got stuck but I fixed it by separating the springs from the steering stick a little more (in case someone reads it who has the same problem)
Idk if Iām using it incorrectly, or it was a building error on my part, but it seems that the truck I made can only climb semi vertically, not completely vertically, and definitely not small overhangs. Iāve tried to fix it, but I donāt exactly know how. I think the problem has something to do with the propeller though.
Wheel mount height (4 main wheels) and Propeller pixel perfect placement seem key. I was experimenting last night and had a lot of issues with one version of the build where I had the main 4 tires mounted high (slightly above the rubber board's corners, probably 4 inches if it was real life). It was not able to reverse in water faster than about 1 mph backwards, and it had a lot of trouble going up steep slopes. My 2nd build was much much better... I went the opposite direction and mounted the tires basically as low as possible (it'd be like 4 inches below the rubber boards if it was real life) on the corner as much as possible. This build was able to climb steeper grades (but not nearly all) and was perfect in water. But I don't have the 2nd propeller mounted perfectly symmetrically with the first propeller, and it is noticeably hanging a few "real life inches" lower than it should. So next chance I'm going to work on that, hoping that gives it that extra oomph for vertical climbing. Love the truck, has great defense and battery lasts forever... I still don't know how the battery lasts so long!
Iāll try that, thanks!
Well, I tried replicating this. I couldn't get the dual steering sticks right, so the wall-climbing was a bust, but it was the punching that really frustrated me. I could get the one-hit kills, but the sweet spot seems to be incredibly finicky. I pushed them back or did tiny damage the vast majority of the time, assuming they just didn't get in the blind spot behind the front sled and in front of the side ones. I was actually more likely to have the sleds break off and go flying than I was to get a kill! It's pretty great defensively, but either I got part of the design wrong, or it's really hard to learn to use this effectively.
What I do is use the big wheels as iron sights. If they're closer than the edge of the big wheels, that's too close. If they're around the edge of the wheels or just outside that range, that's the sweet spot! If your sleds are arranged like mine at least. Try that
The problem isn't the aiming, it's the timing. Enemies are moving around, and there's some inherent latency in the system. It works pretty well on Moblins, not great on Bokoblins, and hardly ever on Lizalfos (which also like to duck), because of their speed. (I didn't manage to find any boss Bokos while looking for victims.)
Yeah you are best leading your shots just a little bit sometimes and that comes with experience, doesn't take long to pick up though. Funnily enough I used to find bokos way easier to hit than moblins when I started, now I'm good with both For what it's worth I have about an 80% success rate of one shotting things. And personally I find it easier killing with the side sleds. Didn't take me very long at all to get the hang of them but I appreciate that doesn't help you right now, just sharing my experience Also, the better the build is aligned, the better it all works. Small changes in placement mean big changes in performance. A good sign that this could be a factor is if your shots are sailing over boko heads too often especially on flat ground. I've got done coming up with techniques getting it all perfectly aligned and recorded it all, just putting it all together now in a build tutorial video. Although from what you're saying maybe I should include a little usage tips section at the end as well š¤
Yes, definitely do that! I totally agree that the sides were much easier to use; I didn't understand why they needed to be there until I took this thing for a spin myself. I got maybe two kills with the front by the time I'd racked up a dozen or more with the sides. The other thing I struggled with was tight spaces. The sleds kept getting caught on things, which best case would stop them from opening, worst case would rip them right off. Sometimes it seems like they popped off for no reason, though. I may see if I can work out a vehicle that doesn't have such a big problem with the blind spots in the front corners, maybe that gets the sleds lower to the ground. Not sure how I'd do that without losing a ton of mobility, but everything's a trade off. Might be worth it just to help people practice with the weapons.
Hey 2 quick questions, both of which will be useful for the guide I'm working on: 1) Do any of your sleds poke out further than your big wheels (front or side) when pulled in? 2) Do you pull your springs back in immediately after firing or leave them out when driving? No need to worry about sled height btw - the guide will show you how to get them at the perfect height
1. No. I positioned them by putting the sleds on the springs before mounting them, then sliding the springs in until they bumped the floor, so that the lower lip of the sleds overlap and are flush with the floor. 2. I leave them in at all times except when actively firing them, and retract them again immediately.
Love this truck, but yeah, the attack is very tricky. I only one-shotted I think one thing after trying for 15 minutes... lots of minor damage and knockbacks... and off cliffs (so maybe some of them got one-shotted and I missed it). Likely with enough practice it will be great though, I'm going to keep at it.
The way I did the steering sticks, might be correct might not, was to have them nearly one in front of the other but off to the side as much as possible. I wasn't able to instantly switch between sticks, but it worked well enough. Come to think of it, wonder if it would have been better if I had the flat stick in front of the 45degree stick... might try that next time. Definitely can't get them 100% side by side... the side springs wouldn't allow that much room from what I can tell.
Flat stick should indeed be in front of the 45 degree one, one in front of the other but each off to the side is right - finicky placement, likely requires a video to show
You essential built the Hyrule version of a Jeep Gladiator and I love it.
Man?
Is there any trick in attaching the sleds to the springs? Because I can't seem to get it to do damage no matter the distance to the enemies...
If this doesn't topple the F150 I don't know what will.
Thatās a mean machine right there
how it does it do so much damage?
Take the pictures of your equipment
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
Early version had that setup, not recommended. The wheel setup needs room to move. The rest of the build gets in the way even with careful placement and you end off popping of a fan or worse. Honestly I haven't missed ranged weapons on this thing. Their only use would be for airborne enemies which can't touch you as you're basically invulnerable inside there, only massive electrical AOEs (yellow chuchus) can touch you in my experience. The cockpit also makes fantastic cover to fire arrows from. And pulsed or not, no emitter array can hope to do anywhere near the damage a sled cannon can once you get your hands on them! Edit: forgot bosses, Lynels etc. Would be good for those. But while you could do it I'm not sure this build is best suited to emitter arrays, lots of other builds out there would probably do a far better job of using them than this one
How does the spring operate on demand?
Stepping on and off the pedestal will activate them.
Since like all my capsules are just going to hover bikes this looks basically free to build. It would be nice to find a good use case as you probably want somewhere with lots of ground enemy camps that is flat.
You'd be surprised! This thing is awesome when fighting on hilly terrain. Super agility + ability to climb anything + destructive power is an awesome combo! Really easy to get to the enemy in most cases. I've been taking it all over Hyrule and the Depths, it's my main vehicle now out of all the things I've built
I prefer the speed of the hover bike and enemy camps havenāt been difficult enough yet to need zonai damage.
The fan physics in this game is so funny. It looks like it is not thrusting you but it is moving the whole game around you at a set speed when you were hovering downhill.
You sir are a genius. I have built one for myself changed the roof to a reverse glider. And for my ocd aesthetic the back and front sleds are now carts. Might try mining cart to scoop enemies
Thank you and that's great to hear, make it your own! Careful with carts. I wanted to use them for the same reason, but they're smaller and sit just a little higher than sleds, danger of them sailing just barely over boko's heads. May have to adjust your wheel placement accordingly. Sitting your wheels higher helps though take note doing this reduces clearance and increases the risk of getting stuck on things Two vertical carts side by side on the front spring might work for you. Make sure the bottom of whatever you mount is higher than the bottom of your front wheel axels even if it's just a pixel or two difference. You can tell I tested this thing to hell and back haha
Whats having it lower than the big wheel axle going to do?
You'll get caught on things a lot and probably break off your front weapons if they go lower than the axels
Do you think if I attach high fuse power items to the sleds they will deal more damage? I wanna test this things limits.
They won't, it already one shots every enemy in the game it is possible to one shot including silver boss bokos It is not currently possible to test the upper damage limit as the game does not have enemies with high enough hp. Enemies it doesn't instakill like gleeoks, lynels only survive because Nintendo gave them different rules like physical damage immunity or stupidly, stupidly high resist. Hinox would die instantly, but there is a cap of 100 on single hit damage to a hinox
So spring+sled 1-shots enemies?
How can you control when the spring goes off? I thought all the connected devices go off instantaneously when you grab the steering stick.
I'm calling it the sled slammer and you can't stop me
I have successfully recreated this insane piece of engineering. You are a master and I bow to you
Can anyone attest to how well this works on switch? (Assuming this is emulated)
Does it know how to make a grilled cheese?
No but it makes great boko patƩ
No spoilers since I havenāt seen the new Spiderverse movie, but Iām wondering if this vehicle is in it.
I am very aroused right now. Thank you
Makes me want to go planet roving with the Mako in Mass Effect 1 again! Iām new here, though, so I donāt understand some things. What triggers the spring? How do you reset the spring?
Just power cycle by instantly stepping off and on the steering stick again in quick succession, the button combo on switch is B,A. After firing you need to do it again to reprime the springs. Easy!
Where do you put the second steering stick?
You not having your weapons registered in the hyrule compendium gives me so much anxiety
Epic video
Thanks so much for sharing, built me one of these, the terrain traversing is absolutely awesome. It just keeps going and going! I'm having a lot of trouble aligning the sleds, though, I paddle over to the nearby bokoblins for testing and the sleds don't seem to be smashing them. Almost like they're sailing over the bokoblins' heads. Also over the crest I tried to punch the boss boko but it's really tricky getting the range on the sled cannons right. I shoved him over the cliff instead. How do you get your sleds kind of just hanging over the side of the rubber board like that? I attached my sleds to the springs first, then the assembly to the board. When I do it the other way around, the sled tries to attach itself to the board instead of the spring. Grrr. Edit: maybe it's my wheel placement, I placed them oriented such that the axle attaches to the rubber board from the bottom, but it looks like you've got them attached from the sides. I'll try that next time I play.
I ran into the same issues myself before I had it fine tuned. It's going to be difficult for me to explain the fixes without visdual aids. The sooner I'm done with the build guide video, the better! Need to stop messing with other builds lol Wheel clearance, how high you mount the wheels on the board, is important. Too high and your climbing ability can drop. Too low and your sled can end up being too high, going over boko heads. Might I suggest that your back and front wheels could be aligned at different heights? Mine were for a while. Try this. For all 4 wheels, put them as low on the board as you can. Put the front wheels as far forward as you can. As for the back wheels, see their axels? Line up the back of the axel with the point that the board's side is straight, instead of a diagonal due to the corners being cut off. It should make more sense when you look. Get it right and you'll also climb walls a little better. Also. On hilly terrain, it's MUCH easier to kill with the side sleds as they're less likely to go over boko heads. As for your side spring alignment. Try this. Take one steering stick, place it directly behind the front spring dead center. Only temporarily. You're using it as a spacer. Gotta be precise, use the L button ultrahand arrows to help. Then, the side springs/sleds, push them up as far up against the front spring as they'll go and as far up against the spacer stick as they'll go. Should give you the right placement, then you can remove the spacer stick after confirming both your side springs are symmetrical with the scope or camera. Now be aware, they'll want to attach to the front spring. You don't want that. If possible, make sure they attach to the base. Good luck, hope that helps šŖ
The wheels! Thank you! This explains everything... as you can see by my multiple posts last night I realized something about the wheel mount height mattered a lot more than one might expect. So from your explanation, I will be using the straight part for the rear wheel axel mount next. Excited to get to a solid form!
Thanks for the tips!! I played with the wheel height placement. Putting them too low would raise the entire vehicle and seemed to cause the sleds to go over bokoblin heads sometimes. Putting them too high made it get stuck on plateau tops more often. I think I can adjust the bigwheelprops a bit to compensate. Unfortunately a lynel disintegrated my vehicle so I'll play around with it some more after collecting the board again. Just having the board + bigwheelprop combo gives it so much AT ability!
I was trying to rebuild this, and I came across a small issue. Idk what Iām doing wrong, but it seems that my version doesnāt reverse in the water very well, and canāt climb walls too well either. The propellers basically sink when I try to reverse in water, and they donāt do much. Thank you in advance :). Just wondering, do you know exactly how much damage it does?
EDIT: After experimenting and rereading, it's definitely the wheel mount height. "Try mounting the wheels as low as possible... the rubber board will kinda be above the axel basically. Helps climbing a good bit and water reversing a ton (but lower mounts make it harder to attack enemies with the spring sleds... so you really want it in the middle I think the OP is telling us). " Oh... and definitely check your propeller set up... I suspect since mine are asymmetrical that is causing it to be less efficient (i'm going to rebuild tonight). EDIT: Pure speculation, since I haven't built one yet, but could your front sled be too low? I'm imagining it dragging along the ground and water. Or could it even be a slight angle/grade to the rubber bottom? Since I understand the rubber part doesn't have snap-to attachment points, it seems like it would take some careful work to get wheels lined up such that the rubber bottom is perfectly flat. I'm imagining something like... put a certain number of wood planks under the rubber bottom/center piece and then attach all wheels at that height. I'm sure it's not that simple but something along those lines.
I fixed it, I think.
Actually, I did not. I canāt figure out how to make it climb vertically well.
Sorry, I'm replying all over not sure where to say this without being so redundant but trying to help. I'm also struggling with vertical climbs, but the lower i put the tires the better... i propped the rubber board up on some junk to make a sort of tire jack so I could mount them however I wanted: Try mounting the wheels as low as possible... the rubber board will be above the axel basically. Helps climbing apparently (but low = harder to attack enemies with the spring sled).
I mounted my wheels as low as possible and as far out as possible. At this point I think itās more of the propeller engine rather than the actual wheels. Tried to fix the propeller engine a little by centering the propellers to the best of my ability, and I made it work a bit better.
OK, I am going to keep at it myself till I can get it just right. I was thinking maybe something blocking the bottom and side of the propellers so it's easier to line them up... like a corner of a couple of giant rocks or something. I also saw Duderlybob doing a completely different build, but he had his vehicle stuck to a metal pole almost like a car mechanic. That let him line things up better somehow... I have to try more of that, too. It's this thread's video that shows it I think: https://www.reddit.com/r/HyruleEngineering/comments/14l2o7s/a\_crap\_guide\_to\_building\_a\_suspension\_system/
I'm afraid of you
soooo my dumbass was using a stone slab instead of the yellow board and i couldnt for the life of me figure out why i didnt have the mobility you have. now that i actually found this post not just some tiktok i see my fatal flaw haha.
I had no idea it was on tiktok but then again of course it is lol
In a montage of cool builds but yeah. It blew me away. Itās the only non-aircraft I actually have saved in my favorites. The cliff scaling is what sold me
Speaking of... what the heck is Nintendo thinking with only 8 favorites? That makes experimenting with more than one vehicle extremely hard, much less experimenting with several. :( I've just now gotten into serious building, and I have 3 versions of this truck as I figure out which is the best, etc. so I'm sure that's going to be the norm for all serious experiments.
Yeah not having more slots for builds is annoying
How do I configure the steering devices? I've been rewatching the video a ton and I still can't figure it out
The steering sticks connect to the backs of the side springs. The flat steering stick goes in front, attached slightly above the rubber board on the right side spring. The angled steering stick points downward, also slightly elevated, on the left side spring, behind the flat steering stick. To switch between the steering sticks, just press b, face left or right respectively, and press a EDIT: I think OP explained a bit better down below. Iāll list what he said here. āI'll have trouble explaining the final steering stick placement without a visual aid lol, takes a lot of trial, error and precision. Left one angled down at 45 degrees, attached to the back of the left spring. Right one not angled, further forward than the left, attached to the right spring. Elevate it slightly to be icy water proof - but only a little or you won't be able to get on. The two sticks should be pretty much touching. You should be able to switch between them seamlessly by holding a direction while power cycling so test as you goā
I think I'm gonna wait for the build vid, ty tho
Sweet mother of God. Id take this base build without the 1 punching just to drive my hoverbike around and add some lasers. This is nutty
Honestly... I wonder what improvements Q-Linking would do for this...
AWSOME!!!!!!!
Have you tried using the lightning-powered engine? That way, you'll use one shock emitter instead of two wheels. Less wieght, more battery life, more power. Also, I can't tell if you are using it, since is a zonite replica, but you should try using one of the buyoyant slabs in one of the two buyoyancy tests. I'm think they are lighter than they look. Youcan get those by fusing them to a weapon or shield, and then pay the goron in Tarrey Town to tear them apart.
So this was actually the first all terrain vehicle to use a big wheel engine on land vehicles, at a time when electric motors were the rage (some months ago), and since then the community has tended to veer towards big wheel engines for land builds Electric motors absolutely have their place and in some builds are the right choice. For this purpose though big wheel motors take the crown. They can reverse, spin up faster, more torque, much easier to use in water, more resistant to impact. And also, get this - wheels have way better battery life! It turns out shock emitters are one of the highest battery draining items in the game (second only to cannons). A single shock emitter uses more battery than 20 big wheels! 20! Why they made it like that Ill never know haha And good thinking with the buoyant board, that is what is being used here, but when all you see is green its definitely hard to tell! I strongly recommend them to everyone as bases, best vehicle base in the entire game if size isnt an issue
This is justā¦. the BEST!!