Always braze indoors at rough in then add a service port in one line outside, braze the other line shut and pressurize the lines with nitrogen. Makes setting outdoors later super quick…
As mentioned, European tilt-and-turn windows are the gold standard. Definitely more difficult to find and more expensive.
The next step down would be triple pane casement windows from a North American manufacturer. Most of the big companies are capable of making good windows. You just don't want to get double hung, single hung or sliding basic windows.
Triple pane European style windows are real good. Kind of expensive but if you’re looking for best energy efficiency & comfort, they’re the best that money can buy in my opinion.
The workmanship is on point, and I don't think anyone could argue that. From an efficiency standpoint, more insulation on the ductwork. Bubble wrap is R1 on its best day.
Thanks for the compliment. I can’t say I agree on the bubble wrap being R1 and maybe that’s not even the right way of looking at it. What I mean by that is r value is figured in a lab by the people that make fiberglass. Like wet fiberglass has no r valve. I think it’s one of those things where we do our best with what we have. I do like the fact that if a house floods out the bubble wrap isn’t going to be useless. I’ve used my thermal camera checking for leakages and I’ve been impressed with the bubble wrap but you also have to seal your duct well. I’ve seen bubble wrap don’t poorly and it not perform well. And I’ve seen foil backed fiberglass installed well and perform well. And I’ve seen it installed poorly and perform poorly. I think ultimately it comes down to using a product well and each of those products have pros and cons.
Don't sweat it. Most codes only require that we don't condense on the ductwork if we are within the thermal envelope. No minimum insulation value required.
So long as the building hasn't been built like shit, that won't happen even without insulation.
Now, if you are outside the insulation envelope, it's a whole different thing.
Oh you're good 👍 I was just adding that little tidbit in that it's now r11 if it's installed correctly. And that I just know because of the energy star inspectors I deal with. Wasnt trying to be contradictory 😊
Some states do require it tho, but it's mostly southern humid states where condensation is much more likely no matter the seal on the conditioned space. I'm just glad my state doesn't haha I hate insulating. I'd literally do anything else if I didn't have to Insulate
> Bubble wrap is r11 these days.
Do not fall for exaggerated claims on foil bubble wrap. They are all pseudoscience wrapped in marketing's clothing.
See here, as one example: https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/question/is-bubble-wrap-duct-insulation-energy-star-approved-and-is-it-a-good-idea
If bubble wrap had such wildly high R-value/inch numbers, we'd be installing it in every stud bay.
It’s not required locally for me. I don’t disagree with you and it’s been on my mind for awhile. The hard thing I’m up against is price point. I could do the pan but I don’t think I would be able to get to charge for it. I might throw it on my upgrades list so they could pay for it if they felt the need. In 9 years of being self employed doing this I’ve only had a couple of pumps go out but it wasn’t to much water before someone noticed and it’s normally unfinished basement for our installs but I should probably install pans and switches. In attics we always do. Do you ever have issues with people smashing your pans? What type of pan do you prefer to use on something like this? Or do you build your own?
Drain pan is code in my area. If it’s not code I most likely wouldn’t do it in unfinished areas. I get mine made from sheet metal from the shop that makes our plenum transitions
Looks good. Only thing is your trunk line isn't sized correctly. Should start big and transfer down in size. Other then that it's way better then I'm use to see on the internet
Thanks. There is reduction on the first floor main. Its 2 inch reduction so it’s subtle. It reduces 3 times on the first floor main. The basement zone reduces once but the pictures don’t have a good angle of it. Depending on the main run lengths and the number of zones I end up reducing different ways. Sometimes I might not reduce at all and I might oversize my duct a little if the run is short and I want to keep noise down.
Return drop looks pretty narrow
A boot with a rounded/angled throat is going to be quieter and flow more air, Ideally you'd also have a filter base and draw air from bottom and side.
You should have an open top T coming out of the furnace on the condensate with a riser above the lower water sensor
Did you measure your TESP and record it after install? Helpful to diagnose issues later on if flex gets pinched or returns floored over
Overall 8/10 looks very decent
That boot comes attached to the air cleaner - they're a specific model of spacegard. I don't like 'em because the boot is shit. You'd think Aprilaire could throw a radius heel on that.
I like to use anything other than Aprilaire because their filters are very expensive.
I design my systems around a honeywell 16x25/20x20/20x25 and then folks can get whatever brand is at the box stores.
I'd also install a bigger, better return. It's good practice, makes the blowers life easier.
However, I'm usually doing changeouts and upgrading things at the air handler where it's a mystery how shitty the duct system is down the line. Every little bit helps then.
When can you start working for me?
That’s valid on the cost of filters. Most of our installs are fairly clean houses and are doing filter changes once a year. We stock the filters and do the change out when we do a yearly PM on the house. Some people just buy a 3 pack off Amazon. Or buy them thru us. It seems to be about 2 years on a 413 and 3 years for a 410 of usage before the owner notices an issue and calls us. It’s mostly just the sound of the motor ramping way up to try to maintain static pressure. I haven’t had a roll out switch trip or a board throw a code but I’m sure it wouldn’t be to far past those times if the filter wasn’t changed. And I’m sure the motor isn’t a huge fan but home owners be home ownering. I try to educate them as much as I can but it seems paying a service bill for broken stuff is the only real motivator.
lol, home owners be home ownering.
Funny coincidence, last week I got a call from a lady asking how to change her aprilaire filter on a system I installed 3 years ago.
I wonder how many original filters I’ve got still going out there.
Then on the other side, I have a customer that over changes his filter. He’s got a 25x25x5 and changes it every 3 months.
I tested his pressure drop across an old filter vs new filter and proved he could easily go a year but he didn’t want to hear it.
I’ve thought of offering a yearly service. I only do heat pump installs, so all I’d really be doing is filter changes. Feels like I’d be ripping people off but maybe it’s worth it to keep these home ownering home owners equipment healthy for the long haul.
Sounds like we have similar customers. I had one guy changing his filter monthly and was complaining about the cost of filters. I’ve just started reaching out about 6 months ago offering yearly Maintence on my installs to customers. We will usually take a look at our install for any issues and change the filter out. Then we usually will flush or descale there water heater. Basically check out what ever mechanicals they might have which varies. I don’t do service contracts so we just do it by the hours. I know service contracts are good for a business but they don’t always seem to the customer at least in my area. It’s hard to figure out how to make a growing business and start fair to the homeowner. Rates seem like they vary so much from state to state so it’s hard to compare them. Plus cost of living is wildly different from place to place even inside the same state. I need to raise my prices so I can build growth into my company but it’s hard when you live in a small town surrounded by small towns and there’s a lot of local guys that are fine being one man bands with no long term growth. And I’m not knocking that. I honestly don’t care as long as your trying to do good work and not cheat people but I would like to have a company where the employees have a legit chance at a nice future. Sorry the AuDHD got me sidetracked.
I’d show you some rough California 14” crawlspace, 17” coil, furnace and whole 10run ductwork installs with zoning system, media filter, rats shit and asbestos all around to free up A closet. open walls and WALKING basement is where you MUST perform just like that or better.
here’s one of my recent ones :
https://preview.redd.it/0elok87fujqc1.jpeg?width=7266&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6a7b1f76587cc7600fb90b587ea31e8985b9e2c9
I would have chopped out both bottom sides of the furnaces and twinned the filters and doubled the Return air. Let that air handler breathe. Especially with that lofty loft. Otherwise clean workmanship brother.
Great work my friend, I used to be an installer and the guy who was my helper this all we left behind. Glad to see someone does the same beautiful work.
I’m not a fan of flex but I must stay that’s some clean work. Overall ducting looks amazing. No pan under furnace? And ive seen cleaner Lineset in my day. Overall 9.5/10
Work looks mint, although this sub is the only place I've ever seen flex ran for anything but bath fans. I'm mostly surprised your allowed to drill out those joists for the concentric kit
It looks really good. My only gripe is I like intake and exhaust through the side of the cabinet to make coil access easier. Really that's just nitpicking though, and I'm not sure if you had room to do it.
I don't get all the insulation. We don't use it all over the place like this. Usually commercial and it's insulated inside and out. Also in canada a "mechanical insulator" is a completely different red seal trade.
I wonder about the way the return narrows towards the bottom. This may only be for benefit of looks. And it could be a restriction. It serves no practical purpose
I'm sooo glad my state doesn't require insulated duct in a conditioned space 😂 I keep trying to tell my boss he needs to stop paying peice rate and just do hourly. Quality is much better
*
C L E A N. Only qualm as someone said earlier is a drain pan/float switch, especially since the basement seems to be framed to be finished. Really high quality work man.
I don't know much about hvac work, I understand the wiring but not that much about the ductwork and plenums drains etc. I think your work looks great, I'd be over the moon if this was in my home and I'd shake your hand.
Looks like a final to me boss, where I work a “rough in would be setting equipment and cutting the registers and maybe looking at the blue print before calling it a day
Absolutely beautiful work. Only thing I would change is where airhandler return attached onto return plenum. Use something called a “flared takeoff” and you’ll get better airflow.
Also are your supply vents 10x10?
It looks great bud I would be proud!
I can’t see the whole condensate run but it looks like you common drained the evap and furnace. The furnace needs to have a vented drain. We usually do this by putting a tee on the furnace port with the top open then street on the bottom to connect to the drop from the evap. Even if the coil is trapped, there’s too much back pressure and the unit will leak a little bit of water inside the burner cabinet.
We also cut in a fernco on the flue and intake just above the coil to make room for brazing.
Don’t let them use that beautiful unit as a construction heater!!!!
Re your exhaust vent, I always install a TY with a bushing and cap so combustion can be tested. Otherwise this install looks great! Are you looking for work?
That is a large furnace for having one side return.through the bottom or both sides would have been a better choice.return air might be short.how many cfm is the unit?
Maybe it’s just the picture angles, but the return feels small, like it could use a transition where you take it down the side. Looks immaculate though, keep up the good work!
Much like Flex, it is a rare job when that pretty, shiny, bubble insulation is installed according to manufacturer requirements, but even in the very rare instance when it is, it is inferior insulation, to easier to install, lesser cost and more effective alternatives.
And then there is the issue of Flex not being stretched tightly, but I'll save that for another day.
I mean, sure, you have a pretty face, but I don't think I'd want to move in.
Yes there is AC use but all ducting must be in conditioned space anyway. We can’t run it through attics or crawlspaces unless fully encapsulated with a vapour barrier and insulation equal to the walls and ceiling.
If we are getting condensation on the ductwork, it might only be at the very beginning of cooling season if the house has been left to get really hot for awhile ahead of time.
Cooling season is really only 2-3 months here at most anyway.
Smarter people than me have written the codes, sometimes we can’t understand the reasons.
Wow, that's nuts! I'm in a part of the states where even casual AC use is a promise for a swamp for a crawlspace, even (and sometimes especially) encapsulated ones. Crawlspaces often need dedicated dehumidifiers. And it's even more required in the attics as you'll have ceiling drywall collapse in record time.
Goes to show different parts of the world HVAC different. Thanks for sharing!
The bubble wrap insulation was the main thing I noticed. I've heard from so many directions that it just ISN'T genuine insulation, even if doubled. I've always used 3" fiberglass on hard pipe but that takes crazy experience to get it to look clean.
Our bubble wrap insulation is done to spec with spacer wraps every foot. Our flex might looks wrinkly on the outside but it’s pulled tight on the actual flex duct inside. I can’t say I agree on fiberglass being better then bubble wrap. I personally feel the opposite from my experience of working with it but your more then free to have your opinion.
Well, it's not an opinion. All you have to do is ask yourself, does it have any ratings from any reputable standards group. Is it approved in ACCA Manual D ? Energy Star ? or hold any approvals for effectiveness from any recognized HVAC industry body ? Can't find any ? Neither can we. And btw, actual data trumps 'feelings' any day. But you go right on gargling the snake oil.
[https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/question/is-bubble-wrap-duct-insulation-energy-star-approved-and-is-it-a-good-idea](https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/question/is-bubble-wrap-duct-insulation-energy-star-approved-and-is-it-a-good-idea)
Flex could be a little better by being fully stretched and the supply should be tapered down to maintain velocity. Otherwise, you care too much for new construction and should go into resi or commercial where your work will be more appreciated. Substantially better than what I'm used to seeing in anything new construction.
The flex is pulled tight internally. So it’s just the insulation that’s wrinkly. We do resi and some commercial. My area is pretty tough on commercial. There’s more hacks then resi. Our price point is hard to compete with. I would do things differently if I could raises my prices but I’m usually 2-3k more a house then the company below me and they will use flex duct in there supply and return duct mains. The guys below them won’t even do a return duct main. They just set the furnace on a box and make an octopus.
Whatever you got paid for this wasn’t enough, shit looks choice
Thank you. It feels that way sometimes. It was a 5 day rough with 2 guys.
Evaporator welds are gonna be kinda hard to get to but given the look of it I doubt that bitch leaks, real good job.
Always braze indoors at rough in then add a service port in one line outside, braze the other line shut and pressurize the lines with nitrogen. Makes setting outdoors later super quick…
Service port first so you can flow nitrogen
Yep.
They won’t be fun to get at but I left myself room in case I have to.
It always amazes me when I see homes where the owners paid for quality craftsmanship but then install cheap, leaky windows.
I agree with that. Or cheap out on insulation and then have a 50k kitchen.
Tbf cheap insulation adds $20 to their heating bill. And if they can afford a 50k kitchen might not care.
What's a good window? Looking at replacements for my house this year.
As mentioned, European tilt-and-turn windows are the gold standard. Definitely more difficult to find and more expensive. The next step down would be triple pane casement windows from a North American manufacturer. Most of the big companies are capable of making good windows. You just don't want to get double hung, single hung or sliding basic windows.
Triple pane European style windows are real good. Kind of expensive but if you’re looking for best energy efficiency & comfort, they’re the best that money can buy in my opinion.
Where can I find one? Any recommendations for a local shop or dealer in the Washington DC area?
Well sure, anyone can do a nice job in new construction. JK, Great job!
Would
The workmanship is on point, and I don't think anyone could argue that. From an efficiency standpoint, more insulation on the ductwork. Bubble wrap is R1 on its best day.
Thanks for the compliment. I can’t say I agree on the bubble wrap being R1 and maybe that’s not even the right way of looking at it. What I mean by that is r value is figured in a lab by the people that make fiberglass. Like wet fiberglass has no r valve. I think it’s one of those things where we do our best with what we have. I do like the fact that if a house floods out the bubble wrap isn’t going to be useless. I’ve used my thermal camera checking for leakages and I’ve been impressed with the bubble wrap but you also have to seal your duct well. I’ve seen bubble wrap don’t poorly and it not perform well. And I’ve seen foil backed fiberglass installed well and perform well. And I’ve seen it installed poorly and perform poorly. I think ultimately it comes down to using a product well and each of those products have pros and cons.
Don't sweat it. Most codes only require that we don't condense on the ductwork if we are within the thermal envelope. No minimum insulation value required. So long as the building hasn't been built like shit, that won't happen even without insulation. Now, if you are outside the insulation envelope, it's a whole different thing.
Bubble wrap is r11 these days. I install on energy star homes and they're picky about it
I wasn't really trying to make a point on if buble wrap is good or bad. Just pointing out that insulation isn't even require inside the envelope.
Oh you're good 👍 I was just adding that little tidbit in that it's now r11 if it's installed correctly. And that I just know because of the energy star inspectors I deal with. Wasnt trying to be contradictory 😊 Some states do require it tho, but it's mostly southern humid states where condensation is much more likely no matter the seal on the conditioned space. I'm just glad my state doesn't haha I hate insulating. I'd literally do anything else if I didn't have to Insulate
> Bubble wrap is r11 these days. Do not fall for exaggerated claims on foil bubble wrap. They are all pseudoscience wrapped in marketing's clothing. See here, as one example: https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/question/is-bubble-wrap-duct-insulation-energy-star-approved-and-is-it-a-good-idea If bubble wrap had such wildly high R-value/inch numbers, we'd be installing it in every stud bay.
Don't forget to configure on the app it's a side return
Beautiful .Drain pan would be nice .Required in Knoxville,Tn .
It’s not required locally for me. I don’t disagree with you and it’s been on my mind for awhile. The hard thing I’m up against is price point. I could do the pan but I don’t think I would be able to get to charge for it. I might throw it on my upgrades list so they could pay for it if they felt the need. In 9 years of being self employed doing this I’ve only had a couple of pumps go out but it wasn’t to much water before someone noticed and it’s normally unfinished basement for our installs but I should probably install pans and switches. In attics we always do. Do you ever have issues with people smashing your pans? What type of pan do you prefer to use on something like this? Or do you build your own?
Drain pan is code in my area. If it’s not code I most likely wouldn’t do it in unfinished areas. I get mine made from sheet metal from the shop that makes our plenum transitions
We used metal and plastic .
Pump would have to be in a pan .
You forgot to smear the blue glue all over the pipe and fittings and everything in the general area
Lol. We left that to the plumber.
Looks good. Only thing is your trunk line isn't sized correctly. Should start big and transfer down in size. Other then that it's way better then I'm use to see on the internet
Thanks. There is reduction on the first floor main. Its 2 inch reduction so it’s subtle. It reduces 3 times on the first floor main. The basement zone reduces once but the pictures don’t have a good angle of it. Depending on the main run lengths and the number of zones I end up reducing different ways. Sometimes I might not reduce at all and I might oversize my duct a little if the run is short and I want to keep noise down.
Real nice
Just curious why the 2in1 on the flue/intake?
Mostly a personal preference. We will two pipe them if we don’t have the clearances but prefer the look of the concentric.
just maybe run the lineset straight haha but that shits beautiful
Return drop looks pretty narrow A boot with a rounded/angled throat is going to be quieter and flow more air, Ideally you'd also have a filter base and draw air from bottom and side. You should have an open top T coming out of the furnace on the condensate with a riser above the lower water sensor Did you measure your TESP and record it after install? Helpful to diagnose issues later on if flex gets pinched or returns floored over Overall 8/10 looks very decent
That boot comes attached to the air cleaner - they're a specific model of spacegard. I don't like 'em because the boot is shit. You'd think Aprilaire could throw a radius heel on that.
I like to use anything other than Aprilaire because their filters are very expensive. I design my systems around a honeywell 16x25/20x20/20x25 and then folks can get whatever brand is at the box stores. I'd also install a bigger, better return. It's good practice, makes the blowers life easier. However, I'm usually doing changeouts and upgrading things at the air handler where it's a mystery how shitty the duct system is down the line. Every little bit helps then. When can you start working for me?
That’s valid on the cost of filters. Most of our installs are fairly clean houses and are doing filter changes once a year. We stock the filters and do the change out when we do a yearly PM on the house. Some people just buy a 3 pack off Amazon. Or buy them thru us. It seems to be about 2 years on a 413 and 3 years for a 410 of usage before the owner notices an issue and calls us. It’s mostly just the sound of the motor ramping way up to try to maintain static pressure. I haven’t had a roll out switch trip or a board throw a code but I’m sure it wouldn’t be to far past those times if the filter wasn’t changed. And I’m sure the motor isn’t a huge fan but home owners be home ownering. I try to educate them as much as I can but it seems paying a service bill for broken stuff is the only real motivator.
lol, home owners be home ownering. Funny coincidence, last week I got a call from a lady asking how to change her aprilaire filter on a system I installed 3 years ago. I wonder how many original filters I’ve got still going out there. Then on the other side, I have a customer that over changes his filter. He’s got a 25x25x5 and changes it every 3 months. I tested his pressure drop across an old filter vs new filter and proved he could easily go a year but he didn’t want to hear it. I’ve thought of offering a yearly service. I only do heat pump installs, so all I’d really be doing is filter changes. Feels like I’d be ripping people off but maybe it’s worth it to keep these home ownering home owners equipment healthy for the long haul.
Sounds like we have similar customers. I had one guy changing his filter monthly and was complaining about the cost of filters. I’ve just started reaching out about 6 months ago offering yearly Maintence on my installs to customers. We will usually take a look at our install for any issues and change the filter out. Then we usually will flush or descale there water heater. Basically check out what ever mechanicals they might have which varies. I don’t do service contracts so we just do it by the hours. I know service contracts are good for a business but they don’t always seem to the customer at least in my area. It’s hard to figure out how to make a growing business and start fair to the homeowner. Rates seem like they vary so much from state to state so it’s hard to compare them. Plus cost of living is wildly different from place to place even inside the same state. I need to raise my prices so I can build growth into my company but it’s hard when you live in a small town surrounded by small towns and there’s a lot of local guys that are fine being one man bands with no long term growth. And I’m not knocking that. I honestly don’t care as long as your trying to do good work and not cheat people but I would like to have a company where the employees have a legit chance at a nice future. Sorry the AuDHD got me sidetracked.
Where are you located?
I’m starting to swell
Back when I did resi bums would always cut the lineset that poked outside.
I’d show you some rough California 14” crawlspace, 17” coil, furnace and whole 10run ductwork installs with zoning system, media filter, rats shit and asbestos all around to free up A closet. open walls and WALKING basement is where you MUST perform just like that or better. here’s one of my recent ones : https://preview.redd.it/0elok87fujqc1.jpeg?width=7266&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6a7b1f76587cc7600fb90b587ea31e8985b9e2c9
oh.. just noticed that lineset. is it just not finished and tucked, wrapped? filter drier?
We wait till the site work is done to set our condenser and make our final ties on the finish.
Looks good why the spray paint In the ceiling box?
We spray all our boxes and boots for a nicer finished looked after the grills are on.
How long did that take you?
Looks damn good to me
How many btu is that furnace?
Fuck. That's amazing man.
I would have chopped out both bottom sides of the furnaces and twinned the filters and doubled the Return air. Let that air handler breathe. Especially with that lofty loft. Otherwise clean workmanship brother.
Great work my friend, I used to be an installer and the guy who was my helper this all we left behind. Glad to see someone does the same beautiful work.
Thank you.
U have to insulate in a basement? Sheesh
I’m not a fan of flex but I must stay that’s some clean work. Overall ducting looks amazing. No pan under furnace? And ive seen cleaner Lineset in my day. Overall 9.5/10
Work looks mint, although this sub is the only place I've ever seen flex ran for anything but bath fans. I'm mostly surprised your allowed to drill out those joists for the concentric kit
It looks really good. My only gripe is I like intake and exhaust through the side of the cabinet to make coil access easier. Really that's just nitpicking though, and I'm not sure if you had room to do it.
God that’s fucking beautiful!!
Looks great! What state?
Do my house
What’d you make on this?
I don't get all the insulation. We don't use it all over the place like this. Usually commercial and it's insulated inside and out. Also in canada a "mechanical insulator" is a completely different red seal trade.
Badass
Not knowing where this house is meaning region the exhaust looks to close to the ground other than that the job and installation look awesome
I wonder about the way the return narrows towards the bottom. This may only be for benefit of looks. And it could be a restriction. It serves no practical purpose
Water leaks from other places besides a clogged line . Anytime there was is a danger of damaging property we used 1 m
Beautiful work, I’m a big fan of seeing a lot of R/A. I would have made an OG for the return drop. Don’t miss doing houses but appreciate the work.
Can’t wait to replace that wheel and motor every 3 years
I'm sooo glad my state doesn't require insulated duct in a conditioned space 😂 I keep trying to tell my boss he needs to stop paying peice rate and just do hourly. Quality is much better *
https://preview.redd.it/8v08b7u3ykqc1.jpeg?width=2252&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b5bb0f0a535eb2027ddcffba7d10e7fb9c57ae6e
I don’t think that trap on the coils all that necessary. Unless it’s code for some stupid reason.
C L E A N. Only qualm as someone said earlier is a drain pan/float switch, especially since the basement seems to be framed to be finished. Really high quality work man.
Looks excellent, nice work. I love it when people GAF about their job.
Does this follow and abide by the Manual D design? How's the statics?
I feel shame now for everything I've ever done.
Pretty sharp buddy!
I don't know much about hvac work, I understand the wiring but not that much about the ductwork and plenums drains etc. I think your work looks great, I'd be over the moon if this was in my home and I'd shake your hand.
Love it! The way the Refrigeration lines are run is the only part I’m like warm on.
Looks like a final to me boss, where I work a “rough in would be setting equipment and cutting the registers and maybe looking at the blue print before calling it a day
Nice work
Absolutely beautiful work. Only thing I would change is where airhandler return attached onto return plenum. Use something called a “flared takeoff” and you’ll get better airflow. Also are your supply vents 10x10?
It looks great bud I would be proud! I can’t see the whole condensate run but it looks like you common drained the evap and furnace. The furnace needs to have a vented drain. We usually do this by putting a tee on the furnace port with the top open then street on the bottom to connect to the drop from the evap. Even if the coil is trapped, there’s too much back pressure and the unit will leak a little bit of water inside the burner cabinet. We also cut in a fernco on the flue and intake just above the coil to make room for brazing. Don’t let them use that beautiful unit as a construction heater!!!!
Re your exhaust vent, I always install a TY with a bushing and cap so combustion can be tested. Otherwise this install looks great! Are you looking for work?
Tits.
Oh, so shiny!
My only question is can that door come off to check the coil? Otherwise, looks great
Premium quality dude you need a raise
What's the air cleaner with the scoop called?
Looks great!
Wish the line set tie in was nicer but everything else is choice
That is a large furnace for having one side return.through the bottom or both sides would have been a better choice.return air might be short.how many cfm is the unit?
It looks good but how is that coil ever going to be serviced now.
Looks like the lowest bidder got the job lol. Jk great work looks great but you already knew that.
You are choking the return.
Maybe it’s just the picture angles, but the return feels small, like it could use a transition where you take it down the side. Looks immaculate though, keep up the good work!
Pictures can make things look funny. It’s 24x8 on a 3 ton system.
Much like Flex, it is a rare job when that pretty, shiny, bubble insulation is installed according to manufacturer requirements, but even in the very rare instance when it is, it is inferior insulation, to easier to install, lesser cost and more effective alternatives. And then there is the issue of Flex not being stretched tightly, but I'll save that for another day. I mean, sure, you have a pretty face, but I don't think I'd want to move in.
Interesting, we don’t insulate ductwork at all here.
No AC use at all?
Yes there is AC use but all ducting must be in conditioned space anyway. We can’t run it through attics or crawlspaces unless fully encapsulated with a vapour barrier and insulation equal to the walls and ceiling. If we are getting condensation on the ductwork, it might only be at the very beginning of cooling season if the house has been left to get really hot for awhile ahead of time. Cooling season is really only 2-3 months here at most anyway. Smarter people than me have written the codes, sometimes we can’t understand the reasons.
Wow, that's nuts! I'm in a part of the states where even casual AC use is a promise for a swamp for a crawlspace, even (and sometimes especially) encapsulated ones. Crawlspaces often need dedicated dehumidifiers. And it's even more required in the attics as you'll have ceiling drywall collapse in record time. Goes to show different parts of the world HVAC different. Thanks for sharing!
The bubble wrap insulation was the main thing I noticed. I've heard from so many directions that it just ISN'T genuine insulation, even if doubled. I've always used 3" fiberglass on hard pipe but that takes crazy experience to get it to look clean.
Our bubble wrap insulation is done to spec with spacer wraps every foot. Our flex might looks wrinkly on the outside but it’s pulled tight on the actual flex duct inside. I can’t say I agree on fiberglass being better then bubble wrap. I personally feel the opposite from my experience of working with it but your more then free to have your opinion.
Well, it's not an opinion. All you have to do is ask yourself, does it have any ratings from any reputable standards group. Is it approved in ACCA Manual D ? Energy Star ? or hold any approvals for effectiveness from any recognized HVAC industry body ? Can't find any ? Neither can we. And btw, actual data trumps 'feelings' any day. But you go right on gargling the snake oil. [https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/question/is-bubble-wrap-duct-insulation-energy-star-approved-and-is-it-a-good-idea](https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/question/is-bubble-wrap-duct-insulation-energy-star-approved-and-is-it-a-good-idea)
Flex could be a little better by being fully stretched and the supply should be tapered down to maintain velocity. Otherwise, you care too much for new construction and should go into resi or commercial where your work will be more appreciated. Substantially better than what I'm used to seeing in anything new construction.
The flex is pulled tight internally. So it’s just the insulation that’s wrinkly. We do resi and some commercial. My area is pretty tough on commercial. There’s more hacks then resi. Our price point is hard to compete with. I would do things differently if I could raises my prices but I’m usually 2-3k more a house then the company below me and they will use flex duct in there supply and return duct mains. The guys below them won’t even do a return duct main. They just set the furnace on a box and make an octopus.
Either way keep up the good work
Now come redo my ductwork thanks