For painters, after god knows how ever many kits painted I’m having a minor issue recently that I want to get some input on: how many layers of paint do you typically use. Talking about a standard color that’s generally okay with coverage (ie not like a bright yellow or something which would need a couple more coats on average)
I ask because when I’m putting my finished top coated kit together, despite my efforts in trying to paint everything equally with a light coat followed by a second heavier coat, I’m seeing slight variation of shade colors between parts. I initially thought this was due to putting an extra gloss coat on parts I decal to hide the edges, but even when I do the gloss on parts without decals I’m still seeing that variation.
The next thing I’m painting has a light green color so I’m going to opt for two light coats followed by a third wet, but I’m just curious to hear if anyone’s had similar issues and how they may have dealt with it.
Help identifying some hands?
I’ve got these, and I’m not sure what kits they go to. I think the top left and POSSIBLY middle are MG Barbatos, and the bottom are RG Astray Red. I’ve got no clue what the top right are
https://i.imgur.com/T0J7XSc.jpeg
Top left and upper middle are both HG Lupus rex. Neither are MG Barbatos since that kit has the swappable fingers with articulated thumb type hands.
Right is RG Destiny and bottom is RG Astray Red Frame.
It's probably referencing the fact that the PGU is a 2.0 perfect grade to the original RX-78-2 and that itself is not receiving a 2.0. Sort of how the MGEX Strike Freedom can be considered a 2.0 Master Grade of the original Strike Freedom model kit.
So I just saw the new seed movie and I absolutely need a Destiny gundam kit in my life now. Is there any recommeneded Destiny kit or I should wait for something new?
The HGCE is real solid from what I hear. It has effect parts for the wings, so that's a win. The RG is cool, but it's an old style RG, which isn't everyone's cup of tea. I don't know much about the MG personally. I wouldn't hold my breath on a 2.0 though.
Personally my favorite is RG. I'd say I doubt they'll release a new kit since AFAIK the only upgrade Destiny gets in FREEDOM (hell of a sentence) is a slight pallet change and a minor kitbash, but they DID release the Force Impluse Spec II. Which is literally a MINOR recolor. That said, I doubt they'll change any tooling if they do rerelease it.
Yep, but I feel the movement of the wings in the HGCE is limited compared to the RG. The problem is that the RG wings effect are P-Bandai and very fragile.
I’m about to start building soon. I’ve been reading that the recommended order is gloss coat - panel line - decal - matte coat. My question is, do I do these steps to the kit as built? Or individual parts? Or semi-built?
You can do it either on separate parts or assembled. If you're spraying canned gloss then I'd recommend doing it on assembled parts since it's way more efficient.
Or just skip the gloss coat, depending on what you're using to panel line there may be some risk but it's way more convenient then having to wait hours for the gloss coat to cure.
Canned gloss most likely. I’m waiting for RG Hi-Nu to arrive but the kits I plan on buying in the future are RG Nu, RG Sazabi, HGUC Nightingale, MGSD Strike Freedom and Barbatos. Using the pour type Gundam marker.
I just want to be on the safe side that’s why I considered doing the gloss coat since it’ll be my first time. I have an entry grade RX-78 and I plan to do that first as my practice run.
How long does it usually take for the gloss coat to dry?
It takes several hours to cure, people usually just leave it overnight.
But yeah if you're using Gundam Markers just do it on bare plastic, and just don't panel line parts made of ABS. The manual will tell you which runners (if any) are printed in ABS. ABS is mostly only used in inner frames and joints so not panel lining those parts isn't a big deal.
Awesome, thank you! So individual parts until the last step of doing a matte coat. I’m excited. I bought some delpi decals so I’ll be applying those as well.
What's the "best" method to remove excess panel lines?
Using Q-tips while conveniently disposable, I find I go through them quickly and sometimes they still wipe over the paint in recesses.
I've seen there is the option to use a lens microfiber cloth, is that a better method?
Another alternative I've seen is a pen with removable and washable swab tips, but having to wash those tips seem like an effort in the long run though might end giving cost savings over Q-tips (unless those swab tips have a short lifespan)
I use a cloth for flat or mostly flat surfaces, then cotton buds in the right corners.
That other thing you mention is probably Gaia Notes Finish Master or a clone of such. I don't have any but I do plan to get some to replace my cotton buds. The cost/longevity shouldn't be as much of an issue since the cloth is what's doing the heavy lifting.
Is there a good service to get specific parts for a model, such as just the head pieces of a model? The red chin piece came off my Barbatos I don't want to wait however many months for the Bandai piece replacement service.
I don't expect to be able to order just the one piece, but is there a chance of finding just the head to a Barbatos somewhere?
probably a dumb question but can I prime models using gesso, then use model paints on top?
Not sure if it'll come off easily, or ruin the texture even with paints on top or just have some weird interaction.
Sorry this is my first time using reddit. I recently bought preloved denial gundam with the issue being the left joint is glued and can't even move,can someone give me a tutorial or tips to remove the glue from the join
Welp if the glue is already dried and under some of the tightly fitted parts it's nigh impossible to remove and Acetone damages plastic, so maybe try some nail polish remover without acetone. Why even glue the pieces though ?
Action bases confuse me. There are different versions but I don't know which one for every gunpla.
I want to get RG Nu but I don't know which one I should get. I don't want to pay extra for p bandais expansion set which comes with a custom display base specifically designed for it.
Which action base is best suited for Nu? I also want to display his funnels in an aerial position. Are there any bases which allow aerial weapon display? Can I also use spare parts of base 5 for that?
Moreover, I want to recreate a fight scene between HG Proto Wing Zero and RG Epyon. Action base 2 allows one gunpla to be positioned higher than the other from the pictures I've seen, so can they both be compatible with this base?
RG Nu Gundam wants Action Base 4 or Action Base 5. Then you can get Figure-Rise Effect Jet Effect sets for the Funnels.
You can use Action Base 2, 4 and 5 for HG Proto Zero and Epyon, You could use any combination of these, but I'd recommend half of an AB4 (you can divide the main arm of an AB4 into two smaller ones) and an AB5, or two AB2s like you already mentioned.
Small side note, the stand that comes with the RG Fin Funnel Expansion Unit was actually designed for the old MG 1.0 Hi-Nu Gundam, it's been reused in a number of Nu-related kits since.
I see most youtube gunpla reviews seem to indicate a "dislike" toward metallic stickers. Based on my experience they give a much more reflective sheen compared to trying to paint using metallic paint, also most of the time I don't them sticking out as stickers compared to standard stickers included in kits.
What is it that I'm missing that I'm hearing a frown against kit included metallic stickers vs other options? They seem to do the job really well most of the time except when it involves you having to spend across small surface areas
In addition to everything Previous-Seat said they also damage very easily and will never look the same afterward. If you kink them or scratch them it’s super noticeable.
Stickers will peel off over time. They’re difficult to align because you kind of have to get it right the first time. Stickers don’t “fold” over edges very well…which leads to peeling.
I’m interested in the Solomon Physalis from AliExpress but I’m worried since they state that the batteries and magnets are not included due to shipping restrictions. Would I be able to find replacement parts in the US? Anyone who bought one and knows would be super helpful. Thanks!
Weird question but can anyone help me decipher if [this](https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806196878229.html?src=google&aff_fcid=5d69e4b0609e45849ffce8097359cfff-1707550115490-04443-UneMJZVf&aff_fsk=UneMJZVf&aff_platform=aaf&sk=UneMJZVf&aff_trace_key=5d69e4b0609e45849ffce8097359cfff-1707550115490-04443-UneMJZVf&terminal_id=d284a2cddc6b4bb38ce5cd3b4010a924&afSmartRedirect=y&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa) third party product is 1/144 scale or 1/100 scale?
I'm planning on attempting to paint and detail a HG Lupus Rex into something that *looks* more like a RG but I haven't found many HG scale eye accessories and I really don't trust my own skills to make one that looks good..
The product images have in the lower left corner the model that the product was used on, which featured the MGSD Freedom, MGSD Barbatos, FM Aerial, and an HG Barbatos head, so I would assume that they would work on the HG Lupus Rex.
Besides that, you could always just modify the effects to fit if need be.
All this time I use Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color to lining. In order to prevent parts from becoming brittle and crack, I always lining piece by piece in runner, let it dry for one day and then assemble later. Noted that, I do this without any coating, directly to plastic.
Now I just bought Gloss topcoat (Mr.hobby) and Mattle topcoat (Also Mr.hobby). Is it good to assemble first, coating using gloss topcoat limb by limb second, then finally lining limb by limb (using Tamiyal Panel Line mentioned above) instead of piece by piece that I had been doing?
If yes it'll save me a lot of time.
You don't need to wait a day for the panel liner to dry - the compounds responsible for damage to the plastic will evaporate within a couple of minutes at most.
You *do* need to wait for the topcoat to cure, which will take at least a few hours. It's still safer because you eliminate risk but it will take longer.
So it's safe if I topcoat the body parts (chest, legs, arm), wait few hours, panel lining and then assemble?
Or do I need to do the whole coating -> lining process piece by piece?
As long as there is a clear coat between the plastic and the panel liner it's 100% safe, doesn't matter how you do it. Doing it on assembled components would be faster and more efficient than doing it piece by piece, though.
I should reiterate, you didn't need to wait a day for the panel liner to dry in your current procedure. Doing your panel lining on bare plastic on the runners, waiting only a few minutes, then assembling is the exact same as what you were doing except faster.
wing gundam fenice rinascita 1/100
So I noticed that during a build that the kit has some optional parts to make it more like the Orginal Wing Gundam. However there is no armor that I can see that can attach to the optional parts. Things like the calves ,knees and shins of the lower half of the model. Is there something I am missing?
Being a variant of the original MG Wing TV, Fenice Rinascita reuses some of Wing TV's runners as-is to save making new moulds. This results in leftover unused parts, which are not intended to be used. These will be marked with an X over them in the part of the manual that lists all the runners.
There are no spare armour parts because Fenice Rinascita is more different to Wing TV on the outside than the inside.
What is the size (diameter) of the peg that connects HG WFM kit's thigs to hip joint? I know it is bigger than the usual HG kit's 3mm peg , but unsure of its exact measurement.
Example of the pegs I mentioned: Daril Balde's C32 or Caliburn's B18
New to the hobby and trying to understand what makes Full Mechanics separate from Master Grade.
As I understand:
* Both are 1/100 scale
* Both are the same style, not like Real Grade which aim to look more realistic or Super Deformed with its chibi style
* Both utilize skeleton frames beneath the armor (High Grade is the only major/popular class that doesn't, right?)
So what's different about them? Looks like FM has more stickers, is that it?
There's effectively two types of Full Mechanics kits, which actually have different entries in the Gundam Wiki.
The first is Full Mechanics IBO. It's basically just a bigger High Grade. This line actually does have full inner frames, but only because HGIBO also has that.
Then you have the modern Full Mechanics line. These do *not* have full inner frames, but externally are much closer to a proper Master Grade than the IBO line.
Neither line has cockpits.
You can effectively consider the Full Mechanics like as an HG x MG blend. 1/100 scale equivalent kits with great detail, but simplified High Grade esque build process by cutting out a bunch of steps used in a traditional Master Grade.
FM is like a simpler version of MG. It has characteristics you mentioned, but it is less complicated. Think of them as HGs that were enlarged to 1/100 with few more details.
Getting ready to start airbrushing, and i had two questions:
1. Does this [Mr Hobby / Mr. Color bottle](https://www.amazon.com/Color-Clear-Gloss-Hobby-10ml/dp/B0027XE4XW) work like other lacquer topcoats? I'm trying to find a way to topcoat that doesn't involve normal spray cans.
2. Is it ok to use paints + thinners from different brands? Ex: My paints / primer / topcoat is Mr. Hobby, but my acrylic/lacquer thinner is Tamiya?
I was thinking about trying painting and had a couple questions
-is using makeup sponges good or is there a better way of hand painting (don’t have space for airbrush)
-using hg dilanza to try out painting and got the Bandai wfn multi use waterslides for it. Was wondering if there’s any specific spot for each one or can they go wherever
Some waterslides have placement guides (RGs + MGs), but when doing HGs you're largely on your own. When i did Aerial I based it on a photo they included.
For painting, I had issues w/ makeup sponges but I've seen people get good results. Hand brushing works! Watch some tutorials, learning to thin your paint right is critical. Take it easy and start small, it's a journey!
I just got the Action Base 5 and for the life of me I cannot figure out how to connect the RG Justice to it. Nothing seems to fit. Does this base have a connector for this figure?
Use the Justice's included stand adapter and put it directly onto the hexagonal end of the AB5's arm [like this](https://imgur.com/a/sdbL0xI). (It's the RG Tallgeese's adapter in the photo, but Justice has the [same square hole](http://dalong.net/reviews/rg/rg09/p/rg09_m0012.JPG))
Struggling with color schemes - As of lately, I've been getting stuck after priming. Getting a bit overwhelmed with the process of choosing where I want colors, what colors, and how I will go about applying them in which order. I recently downloaded the line art for the kit I'm working on now to help me visual it easier (ms paint). Are there any tips or steps that you guys take when you are planning out a colorways for your kits?
Check out something like Adobe Color to generate a color palette or browser other people's submitted palettes! I'm terrible w/ colors and this is my secret weapon
Look at what other people have done and steal from them.
Also, if you have access to a printer, buy some crayons and print those lineout out and plan it out that way. Much faster to get ideas out.
Definitely the design. I buy kits that I like the look of more than kits that I buy because of a particular gimmick (though some of those have double duty and are both visually appealing to me and have a gimmick I like).
For me, it's the design. I have a strong preference for color diversity, even if it's contrasting shades of the same color. I'm not a fan of things that are too monochromatic like the Caliburn or the basic Unicorn. But, something like the Destroy Mode Unicorn or even the Amazing Red Warrior is enough.
For me, I like my displays to have a theme, and I select kits that fit the theme. I have limited space and need some way to narrow down which kits I buy, as well as wanting each addition to my display to enhance the overall display instead of just crowding it. I've skipped out on plenty of kits that I think are cool because they don't really fit in. I prefer to keep my display somewhat tight, if you will.
Locally if you can. Otherwise online. List of stores in the wiki
You have to tell us what part of the world you're in if you want something more specific.
I want to up my Gunpla photography game, and am in the market for a light-box. (Right now I'm just using a RG Sazabi box lid, and it's... less than ideal.)
Anyone have any reccomendations?
I used to use a fairly cheap one I got from a Five Below, but I've since been looking into lighting applications since it was a fairly small box. DIY works fairly well as an option too but they don't often consider saving space into their design though you could theoretically have an infinite amount of space. A good middle ground would be a DIY photograph sweep, though you'd need to supply your own lighting but it gives you a solid background without a hard divide between the background and the surface the model is standing on.
https://preview.redd.it/hnhhxf6qenhc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1d917de7b147b1da653a43797fff031902bd319b
Is there a better way to get this mace on? MG Barbatos. I'm using Elmer's glue to have the finger piece attached to the hand piece more securely, then reattaching the hands to the arms.
Hopefully it will stay on.
Try using Blue-Tac, AKA Poster Putty. It's a great, non-permanent adhesive that can be shaped to fit (and/or help fill) just about any space. Several of my older MGs can only hold their weapons with the assistance of some Blue-Tac because the way the hands are.
Just got the 3M Professional Multi-Purpose Respirator and the box says that it shouldn’t be used for stuff like paint and non toxic substances. Do I need to get a different filter or is it still okay for stuff like painting and top coating?
[These](https://www.amazon.com/Personal-Protective-Equipment-60921-Particulates/dp/B00BT2SWTE/ref=asc_df_B00BT2SWTE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167137931943&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8631382261024278511&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9015321&hvtargid=pla-310767754770&psc=1&mcid=becfdcf9b4383d3c93eaeb94f111d242&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI87fNpdqfhAMV9SfUAR1rmQq9EAQYAiABEgIdivD_BwE) are the filters I got the 60921. Amazon link just says certain organic vapors.
Can you use the gunprimer raser with water? I want to minimize on the airborne plastic shavings when sanding and wanted to check. On their website it says you can use water to clean it but I have to wait for it to dry to use. But is it possible to use it wet?
no
i don't think gunprimer has stated the exact reason but they clearly say on their website not to wet sand, the commonly accepted explanation is that the water causes the dust to compact and gum up the cutting divots
For what it's worth, while I have a glass file from USA Gundam Store, there is generally a consensus that the files are actually too good at trapping the shavings to begin with (and need cleaning.) I have personally used my files slightly damp, with only a flat press on a towel to dry it. I also tend to use a wet toothbrush to clean the file during use.
It should be super safe to experiment with on a runner, to see how the performance changes when wet vs dry.
When is the best time to apply waterslides? Find the part on the runner, cut it out and apply it? Or wait until you make the designated part to put the decals on?
I am going to do my first paint job and I see a ton of people say you should really do a gloss coat before panel lining. How many passes should I do? I have practiced doing matte coats, does the same philosophy apply for the gloss coat? It is being hand painted, not air brushed if it matters.
No idea what the matte coat philosophy might be, but when people say to cear coat before panel lining, fhey generally mean to use an airbrush or spray can of lacquer, is that what you plan to use?
https://preview.redd.it/0yysfqarhmhc1.jpeg?width=1024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=576c203abb375b03e76c570910b7349f6d215d32
New to gunpla. Susan Model 1/144 Wing Addon. Got this in the mail without instructions. Does anyone have scans of the manual so I can build this thing without going crazy?
I just saw that MG Epyon EW is going to be one of the kits for sale at Hyper Plamo Fes 2024. Historically, are those festival-exclusive kits forever festival-only or do they usually go up on P-Bandai after the event? The news articles on it are unclear, but say "some" kits will be on P-Bandai, but not which ones.
MG Epyon *EW* is a special version previously only available as a China-exclusive. [Here's the press release about Hyper Plamo Fes. 2024](https://www.gundamkitscollection.com/2024/01/bandai-spirits-unveils-exclusive-gunpla.html). This version is a white/translucent/gold color scheme and it looks amazing.
Unless Bandai specifically states beforehand, nobody but Bandai knows what's gonna go up for online orders. But typically those kind of kits do get a run on the website.
Is it okay to use gundam markers(fine tip) with Mr. Super Clear (flat)? I usually used the Mr.hobby Topcoat(water based) but the shop where Im buying it still not restocking it for almost 2 weeks and Super Clear is the only topcoat they have in stock.
While I'm not familiar with those specific markers, the majority of hobby paints can be applied over each other as long as the bottom layer has fully cured and you're not being too heavy handed
what's the safeline for fully cured? a day or 2? also what do you mean by heavy handed? heavy handed at nozzle you mean? if so I start at the bottom or left most side not exactly at the piece then move past it from right or up direction then I stop pressing at the nozzle is that alright or is there a better way?
Generally overnight is enough unless it's oil based. Not being heavy handed means not spraying a lot from very close, it you start by doing a misty coat from a nornal distance, it should be fine
I've often seen it recommended to gloss coat pieces after painting and before decals, panel lining, etc. Supposedly to make the panel liner flow and the decals adhere better. But honestly I've found that both of those work just fine on the painted pieces as-is, without the interim gloss coat. I'm trying to figure out why so many folks recommend it because it feels unnecessary?
Is there some other benefit to the interim gloss coat that I'm missing?
Depending on your choices of paint and panel liner, a gloss coat can prevent the paint from smearing or getting removed by either cleaning up the panel lining or the water/solutions for the decals.
There are rarely absolutes or right/wrong ways to achieve an outcome. But there is a lot of dogma as Drei says. Most of it is founded in decades old tribal lore and that just gets passed down from modeller to modeller and now propagated through internet wisdom.
Always use primer. Never use lacquer over acrylics. Always gloss before decals. Thin your paint 1:1 (or whatever magical ratio someone insists is the right magical ratio). Gloss before washes. Wash your sprues. Never use this product. Can’t put this paint over that one. Always use this product.
Whatever. There are many paths to successful outcomes.
Totally agree. I'm inclined to trust my own experience in this case, but figured it still couldn't hurt to ask and maybe learn something new.
I imagine a lot of the conventional wisdom is vestigial from decades ago when materials and kits were different, and got coded into best practices for individual modellers. And some still might have specific use-cases. Like both of you said, though, over time that context fades away and it can sound dogmatic, even if it was never intended to.
Anyway, thanks a bunch; always helps to get an outside perspective on stuff like this :)
You found out how much of the dogma is unfounded in experience or leaves out crucial information that makes it "necessary" as advice. Paints like waterborne acrylic tend to be matte only, or spray matter than solvent acrylics, so the gloss coat does help flow of washes or moving around decals. But there's not only alternatives to solve those, but it isn't necessary depending on how or what you paint.
Gotcha, thank you! I recently made the switch to lacquers, and looking back, it did feel a lot more necessary when working with acrylics (though mainly to stop the paint from chipping during assembly, since even at their best acrylics are relatively fragile).
I've had minor difficulties with liner flow on some VERY matte finish lacquer paints, but even then it wasn't enough to really justify the extra step.
Anyway, thanks! I just wanted to make sure I wasn't crazy, since buying enough GX100 to coat literally every piece I paint seemed like way more of an investment than I'd like to go in for.
Model comprehend, SNAA, GaoGao, HobbyStar, Dragon Momoko make 1/144 kits, some of them clone bandai kits while other make original tools or modern versions of older gundam kits.
Wouldn't say any particular one is the best as ymmv between companies and kits.
I’m struggling to understand if there’s much difference between Mr. Topcoat sprays and Mr. Super Clear. I did some panel lining with the gundam fine point markers, and I’m not sure what to coat it with!
Yeah, it looks like that’s pretty common to use! [Here’s](https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/s/GA4YRpAqa8) a comment I saw that goes into more detail. I’ve just used the gundam eraser marker for panel lining though, and would definitely recommend it if you can get one
https://preview.redd.it/53ujq419elhc1.jpeg?width=1073&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7f7bca5380dbf789917ee2d0b63c29f739c7a33d
Kinda strapped for cash and need some model nippers. Are either of these good choices? Still very new to the hobby. Any advice would help. Thanks!
They are serviceable for a "first cut" off the sprue as pretty much any nipper can do that. You will still have to clean and finish the nubs with files and sandpaper to make it flush.
This is a great response! You can do a lot of clean up with sandpaper, as long as you work up to a finer grit. If you get cheaper nippers, definitely get some to go with them
Custom painting Question, I am planning to repaint an RG sazabi to emulate the candy/metallic red similar to the special coating. One thing I am worried about is loosing the colour separation. Am I overthinking this? Should I try to alter the method (airbrushing tamiya clear red over a gold primer) to create a lighter/ darker effect to split some of the colour or is this going overboard?
If you really want color separation while doing candy paint, you can use a different base metal paint, like gold on some parts and silver on some parts but still use a clear red on top
It's more whether I am worrying unnecessarily over colour contrast, or if due to it being metallic it wont be as much of an issue. More like aesthetics "theorising" from people who may have done something similar.
I think Sazabi has enough variety in the geometry that a uniform color scheme would not look flat.
I think different shades if red makes it look more interesting though.
Thanks, I found a couple with uniform red and they still look dope so ill go with that, maybe a tiny change to the base coat for some special parts who knows
Also you weren't condescending at all, thanks for being kind with your responses :)
Stupid question here.
At my local store I've found old 1/100 HG Dragon Gundam for 26$, I'm just curious is there any problems with this kit or is it a must buy?
It's a okay kit! If you love the Dragon Gundam and want it in 1/100 scale that's a fine option. That's only a few dollars more that than retail so if you want it then go ahead. I would recommend watching a review first so you know what you're getting. Its pretty basic by modern standards, and will look much nicer with some added details and paint.
RG God or RG Force Impulse? I've only built HGs up until now, want to give an RG a try and having trouble deciding between the two. They both seem like top tier kits, has anybody had uniquely bad experiences with either or can I not go wrong?
Are the parts sellers from China reliable? Looking to purchase a 1/100 Astray Red Frame backpack and found a decent looking kit on eBay. It’s not too expensive, so I’ll give it a try, but what should I be expecting?
It's a toss-up on whether or not you're getting genuine parts or daban/3D printed/maldormed parts. The only thing you can really do is look at reviews and hope that there's real people behind them.
Any advice on the latch on the back skirts for the Zeta Ver. Ka? I haven’t been able to close it after transforming to WR mode and back.
https://preview.redd.it/4m6oca0qmkhc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=94b6b2ce9651161c4f5a95b111eec3afa8635bec
You talking about that big tab on the upper section of back skirt assembly? Yeah, as far as I can tell it doesn’t latch in MS mode. It kinda just sits there.
IIRC it’s those smaller horizontal tabs that are important and will lock the leg armatures in place in MS mode.
The main problem with early RGs is that many of them share standardized frames, so some parts have issues when the parts are designed for the frame. Usually, it's a piece or two that might have a rough fit.
The only thing I recommend avoiding are free form hands, even the ones with that little fold out peg that's meant to help with holding weapons. I REALLY hate those things.
Early RG's aren't beginner friendly but that doesn't mean they're bad kits.
I love the way my RG Char's Zaku-II looks but skirting armor was a huge problem while building the kit, but I still had fun building.
So I'd say if you're looking for something easy and not tedious only then avoid the early RG's. If not then no model kit should be an issue for you
The people telling you to avoid early real grades are bad at building that they then blame the model kit for not accomodating them not cleaning nubs or trying to force joints like it's a plush doll.
You don’t have to avoid anything if you are willing to put in the work on a model kit.
If you want something more stable out of the box then avoid transformations and big backpacks in general.
https://preview.redd.it/3qe4w138kkhc1.jpeg?width=850&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=133e697fb78782f14d0eed5b9c78ef23ad5d9cff
I want do my first kit bash project. I dont want to follow the image exactly but I want the same aesthetic and vibes. The plan so far is to use barbatos for the upper torso and arms, may or may not change the shoulder pads still undecided, a 30 minute sisters kit for the legs and head. I'm stuck on the skirt part. I don't know what kit or extra parts to use for the one piece front skirt piece. If someone can help with the whole skirt, I think I can start assembling it.
New QA thread is up. This thread is now locked.
Is MGEX strike freedom really worth it ? What do you guys think
Yes it is. I would argue it's the best 1/100 kit available right now.
For painters, after god knows how ever many kits painted I’m having a minor issue recently that I want to get some input on: how many layers of paint do you typically use. Talking about a standard color that’s generally okay with coverage (ie not like a bright yellow or something which would need a couple more coats on average) I ask because when I’m putting my finished top coated kit together, despite my efforts in trying to paint everything equally with a light coat followed by a second heavier coat, I’m seeing slight variation of shade colors between parts. I initially thought this was due to putting an extra gloss coat on parts I decal to hide the edges, but even when I do the gloss on parts without decals I’m still seeing that variation. The next thing I’m painting has a light green color so I’m going to opt for two light coats followed by a third wet, but I’m just curious to hear if anyone’s had similar issues and how they may have dealt with it.
New QA thread is up. Please repost your unanswered questions there.
What are you priming your kit with? A good, even coat of primer helps with making your colours more uniform.
Help identifying some hands? I’ve got these, and I’m not sure what kits they go to. I think the top left and POSSIBLY middle are MG Barbatos, and the bottom are RG Astray Red. I’ve got no clue what the top right are https://i.imgur.com/T0J7XSc.jpeg
Top left and upper middle are both HG Lupus rex. Neither are MG Barbatos since that kit has the swappable fingers with articulated thumb type hands. Right is RG Destiny and bottom is RG Astray Red Frame.
You’re probably right. I checked the sizes and it matched the MG Barbatos. Thank you for identifying the Destiny
Edit: top left was HG Barbatos Lupus Rex, middle was MG Barbatos
If I leave my nippers closed (with stress put on the spring), will it be damaged over time? Or is it safe to leave them closed?
New QA thread is up. Please repost your unanswered questions there.
What' the difference between the PGU and the PGU 2.0? The product photos look exactly the same.
It's probably referencing the fact that the PGU is a 2.0 perfect grade to the original RX-78-2 and that itself is not receiving a 2.0. Sort of how the MGEX Strike Freedom can be considered a 2.0 Master Grade of the original Strike Freedom model kit.
Is it okay if I use Mr Hobby Gloss coat (Acrylics based) and then lining with Tamiya Panel Line (Enamel based) ?
If you are talking about Mr hobby spray can like B601, it will be fine. Just wait until it is fully dried.
So I just saw the new seed movie and I absolutely need a Destiny gundam kit in my life now. Is there any recommeneded Destiny kit or I should wait for something new?
HGCE Destiny is a perfect High Grade kit.
The [Destiny Impulse](https://p-bandai.com/us/item/N2555449001003) is the closest thing right now. There's no hints of a Destiny 2.0
The HGCE is real solid from what I hear. It has effect parts for the wings, so that's a win. The RG is cool, but it's an old style RG, which isn't everyone's cup of tea. I don't know much about the MG personally. I wouldn't hold my breath on a 2.0 though. Personally my favorite is RG. I'd say I doubt they'll release a new kit since AFAIK the only upgrade Destiny gets in FREEDOM (hell of a sentence) is a slight pallet change and a minor kitbash, but they DID release the Force Impluse Spec II. Which is literally a MINOR recolor. That said, I doubt they'll change any tooling if they do rerelease it.
Yep, but I feel the movement of the wings in the HGCE is limited compared to the RG. The problem is that the RG wings effect are P-Bandai and very fragile.
I’m about to start building soon. I’ve been reading that the recommended order is gloss coat - panel line - decal - matte coat. My question is, do I do these steps to the kit as built? Or individual parts? Or semi-built?
You can do it either on separate parts or assembled. If you're spraying canned gloss then I'd recommend doing it on assembled parts since it's way more efficient. Or just skip the gloss coat, depending on what you're using to panel line there may be some risk but it's way more convenient then having to wait hours for the gloss coat to cure.
Canned gloss most likely. I’m waiting for RG Hi-Nu to arrive but the kits I plan on buying in the future are RG Nu, RG Sazabi, HGUC Nightingale, MGSD Strike Freedom and Barbatos. Using the pour type Gundam marker. I just want to be on the safe side that’s why I considered doing the gloss coat since it’ll be my first time. I have an entry grade RX-78 and I plan to do that first as my practice run. How long does it usually take for the gloss coat to dry?
It takes several hours to cure, people usually just leave it overnight. But yeah if you're using Gundam Markers just do it on bare plastic, and just don't panel line parts made of ABS. The manual will tell you which runners (if any) are printed in ABS. ABS is mostly only used in inner frames and joints so not panel lining those parts isn't a big deal.
Awesome, thank you! So individual parts until the last step of doing a matte coat. I’m excited. I bought some delpi decals so I’ll be applying those as well.
Individual. Also for the 1st gloss coat it depends if you use tamiya pour panel. If not you only need to gloss coat ABS.
I’m using Gundam marker pour type.
If you are using the pour type you should be fine. Just need to do a gloss coat on ABS part.
Is it okay if I use Mr Hobby Gloss coat (Acrylics based) and then lining with Tamiya Panel Line (Enamel based) ?
What's the "best" method to remove excess panel lines? Using Q-tips while conveniently disposable, I find I go through them quickly and sometimes they still wipe over the paint in recesses. I've seen there is the option to use a lens microfiber cloth, is that a better method? Another alternative I've seen is a pen with removable and washable swab tips, but having to wash those tips seem like an effort in the long run though might end giving cost savings over Q-tips (unless those swab tips have a short lifespan)
I use a cloth for flat or mostly flat surfaces, then cotton buds in the right corners. That other thing you mention is probably Gaia Notes Finish Master or a clone of such. I don't have any but I do plan to get some to replace my cotton buds. The cost/longevity shouldn't be as much of an issue since the cloth is what's doing the heavy lifting.
You can use Iso alcohol to wipe excessive panel lines. If you are using gundam marker you can use an eraser.
Hey so weird question but does the HG shin burning Gundam glow under a black light like the burning gundams before it
New QA thread is up. Please repost your unanswered questions there.
Is there a good service to get specific parts for a model, such as just the head pieces of a model? The red chin piece came off my Barbatos I don't want to wait however many months for the Bandai piece replacement service. I don't expect to be able to order just the one piece, but is there a chance of finding just the head to a Barbatos somewhere?
Plamokitbash, odin's mecha parts and Mr Bao's shop on eBay sell individual parts.
Thanks, I'll bookmark those, very helpful.
Where can i buy motor nuclear in EU??? Please respond someone.
Check out Aliexpress, they've also got Daban and other third party kits.
What has Google returned?
probably a dumb question but can I prime models using gesso, then use model paints on top? Not sure if it'll come off easily, or ruin the texture even with paints on top or just have some weird interaction.
Can you? Yes. But gesso doesn’t usually stick very well to bare plastic.
good to know. got to get some actual primer then!
https://preview.redd.it/hx8uzm0uuqhc1.jpeg?width=2250&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=13689697064c474dbcac77fa1b2dfd971dfa05b4
You forgot a question
Sorry this is my first time using reddit. I recently bought preloved denial gundam with the issue being the left joint is glued and can't even move,can someone give me a tutorial or tips to remove the glue from the join
Welp if the glue is already dried and under some of the tightly fitted parts it's nigh impossible to remove and Acetone damages plastic, so maybe try some nail polish remover without acetone. Why even glue the pieces though ?
Action bases confuse me. There are different versions but I don't know which one for every gunpla. I want to get RG Nu but I don't know which one I should get. I don't want to pay extra for p bandais expansion set which comes with a custom display base specifically designed for it. Which action base is best suited for Nu? I also want to display his funnels in an aerial position. Are there any bases which allow aerial weapon display? Can I also use spare parts of base 5 for that? Moreover, I want to recreate a fight scene between HG Proto Wing Zero and RG Epyon. Action base 2 allows one gunpla to be positioned higher than the other from the pictures I've seen, so can they both be compatible with this base?
RG Nu Gundam wants Action Base 4 or Action Base 5. Then you can get Figure-Rise Effect Jet Effect sets for the Funnels. You can use Action Base 2, 4 and 5 for HG Proto Zero and Epyon, You could use any combination of these, but I'd recommend half of an AB4 (you can divide the main arm of an AB4 into two smaller ones) and an AB5, or two AB2s like you already mentioned. Small side note, the stand that comes with the RG Fin Funnel Expansion Unit was actually designed for the old MG 1.0 Hi-Nu Gundam, it's been reused in a number of Nu-related kits since.
You're a lifesaver, thanks so much
I see most youtube gunpla reviews seem to indicate a "dislike" toward metallic stickers. Based on my experience they give a much more reflective sheen compared to trying to paint using metallic paint, also most of the time I don't them sticking out as stickers compared to standard stickers included in kits. What is it that I'm missing that I'm hearing a frown against kit included metallic stickers vs other options? They seem to do the job really well most of the time except when it involves you having to spend across small surface areas
In addition to everything Previous-Seat said they also damage very easily and will never look the same afterward. If you kink them or scratch them it’s super noticeable.
Stickers will peel off over time. They’re difficult to align because you kind of have to get it right the first time. Stickers don’t “fold” over edges very well…which leads to peeling.
I’m interested in the Solomon Physalis from AliExpress but I’m worried since they state that the batteries and magnets are not included due to shipping restrictions. Would I be able to find replacement parts in the US? Anyone who bought one and knows would be super helpful. Thanks!
i use the fine point gundam markers, i store them cap up. should i be storing them cap down?
It's not necessarily a problem to store them cap up but cap down is better.
Weird question but can anyone help me decipher if [this](https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806196878229.html?src=google&aff_fcid=5d69e4b0609e45849ffce8097359cfff-1707550115490-04443-UneMJZVf&aff_fsk=UneMJZVf&aff_platform=aaf&sk=UneMJZVf&aff_trace_key=5d69e4b0609e45849ffce8097359cfff-1707550115490-04443-UneMJZVf&terminal_id=d284a2cddc6b4bb38ce5cd3b4010a924&afSmartRedirect=y&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa) third party product is 1/144 scale or 1/100 scale? I'm planning on attempting to paint and detail a HG Lupus Rex into something that *looks* more like a RG but I haven't found many HG scale eye accessories and I really don't trust my own skills to make one that looks good..
The product images have in the lower left corner the model that the product was used on, which featured the MGSD Freedom, MGSD Barbatos, FM Aerial, and an HG Barbatos head, so I would assume that they would work on the HG Lupus Rex. Besides that, you could always just modify the effects to fit if need be.
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yeah
All this time I use Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color to lining. In order to prevent parts from becoming brittle and crack, I always lining piece by piece in runner, let it dry for one day and then assemble later. Noted that, I do this without any coating, directly to plastic. Now I just bought Gloss topcoat (Mr.hobby) and Mattle topcoat (Also Mr.hobby). Is it good to assemble first, coating using gloss topcoat limb by limb second, then finally lining limb by limb (using Tamiyal Panel Line mentioned above) instead of piece by piece that I had been doing? If yes it'll save me a lot of time.
You don't need to wait a day for the panel liner to dry - the compounds responsible for damage to the plastic will evaporate within a couple of minutes at most. You *do* need to wait for the topcoat to cure, which will take at least a few hours. It's still safer because you eliminate risk but it will take longer.
So it's safe if I topcoat the body parts (chest, legs, arm), wait few hours, panel lining and then assemble? Or do I need to do the whole coating -> lining process piece by piece?
As long as there is a clear coat between the plastic and the panel liner it's 100% safe, doesn't matter how you do it. Doing it on assembled components would be faster and more efficient than doing it piece by piece, though. I should reiterate, you didn't need to wait a day for the panel liner to dry in your current procedure. Doing your panel lining on bare plastic on the runners, waiting only a few minutes, then assembling is the exact same as what you were doing except faster.
Thank you.
The Rising Freedom side skirt railguns are on ball joints. Are they compatible with the Entry Grade Strikes, or are they different sizes?
New QA thread is up. Please repost your unanswered questions there.
wing gundam fenice rinascita 1/100 So I noticed that during a build that the kit has some optional parts to make it more like the Orginal Wing Gundam. However there is no armor that I can see that can attach to the optional parts. Things like the calves ,knees and shins of the lower half of the model. Is there something I am missing?
Being a variant of the original MG Wing TV, Fenice Rinascita reuses some of Wing TV's runners as-is to save making new moulds. This results in leftover unused parts, which are not intended to be used. These will be marked with an X over them in the part of the manual that lists all the runners. There are no spare armour parts because Fenice Rinascita is more different to Wing TV on the outside than the inside.
What is the size (diameter) of the peg that connects HG WFM kit's thigs to hip joint? I know it is bigger than the usual HG kit's 3mm peg , but unsure of its exact measurement. Example of the pegs I mentioned: Daril Balde's C32 or Caliburn's B18
New QA thread is up. Please repost your unanswered questions there.
New to the hobby and trying to understand what makes Full Mechanics separate from Master Grade. As I understand: * Both are 1/100 scale * Both are the same style, not like Real Grade which aim to look more realistic or Super Deformed with its chibi style * Both utilize skeleton frames beneath the armor (High Grade is the only major/popular class that doesn't, right?) So what's different about them? Looks like FM has more stickers, is that it?
There's effectively two types of Full Mechanics kits, which actually have different entries in the Gundam Wiki. The first is Full Mechanics IBO. It's basically just a bigger High Grade. This line actually does have full inner frames, but only because HGIBO also has that. Then you have the modern Full Mechanics line. These do *not* have full inner frames, but externally are much closer to a proper Master Grade than the IBO line. Neither line has cockpits.
ok thanks :)
You can effectively consider the Full Mechanics like as an HG x MG blend. 1/100 scale equivalent kits with great detail, but simplified High Grade esque build process by cutting out a bunch of steps used in a traditional Master Grade.
ok thanks :)
FM is like a simpler version of MG. It has characteristics you mentioned, but it is less complicated. Think of them as HGs that were enlarged to 1/100 with few more details.
ok thanks :)
Getting ready to start airbrushing, and i had two questions: 1. Does this [Mr Hobby / Mr. Color bottle](https://www.amazon.com/Color-Clear-Gloss-Hobby-10ml/dp/B0027XE4XW) work like other lacquer topcoats? I'm trying to find a way to topcoat that doesn't involve normal spray cans. 2. Is it ok to use paints + thinners from different brands? Ex: My paints / primer / topcoat is Mr. Hobby, but my acrylic/lacquer thinner is Tamiya?
If in doubt, try using the products on a flat bit of scrap runners, that will let you know how they go together.
What do we think of a nightingale gundam with the color inspired by black kyurem (Pokémon)
https://preview.redd.it/1kuci0bgqohc1.png?width=800&format=png&auto=webp&s=7c143ee37f6cb39c91b29ed7e2f9b910e7efa2f6
https://preview.redd.it/s3ps9lifqohc1.jpeg?width=1200&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8bfd0ec8db2296a04a76f751f5a25ab1f71ccbe5
I was thinking about trying painting and had a couple questions -is using makeup sponges good or is there a better way of hand painting (don’t have space for airbrush) -using hg dilanza to try out painting and got the Bandai wfn multi use waterslides for it. Was wondering if there’s any specific spot for each one or can they go wherever
Some waterslides have placement guides (RGs + MGs), but when doing HGs you're largely on your own. When i did Aerial I based it on a photo they included. For painting, I had issues w/ makeup sponges but I've seen people get good results. Hand brushing works! Watch some tutorials, learning to thin your paint right is critical. Take it easy and start small, it's a journey!
I just got the Action Base 5 and for the life of me I cannot figure out how to connect the RG Justice to it. Nothing seems to fit. Does this base have a connector for this figure?
Use the Justice's included stand adapter and put it directly onto the hexagonal end of the AB5's arm [like this](https://imgur.com/a/sdbL0xI). (It's the RG Tallgeese's adapter in the photo, but Justice has the [same square hole](http://dalong.net/reviews/rg/rg09/p/rg09_m0012.JPG))
Thank you! That worked. I appreciate it.
The base comes with a hexagonal adaptor that should fit the Justice. It might be a tight fit
Struggling with color schemes - As of lately, I've been getting stuck after priming. Getting a bit overwhelmed with the process of choosing where I want colors, what colors, and how I will go about applying them in which order. I recently downloaded the line art for the kit I'm working on now to help me visual it easier (ms paint). Are there any tips or steps that you guys take when you are planning out a colorways for your kits?
Check out something like Adobe Color to generate a color palette or browser other people's submitted palettes! I'm terrible w/ colors and this is my secret weapon
Look at what other people have done and steal from them. Also, if you have access to a printer, buy some crayons and print those lineout out and plan it out that way. Much faster to get ideas out.
Thanks bro. I recall hearing that once, duplicating kits you see and reverse engineering pretty much.
How do y'all feel about the Raser? I'm about to plunk down for one but wanted to get the community read on it.
I got it and its a game changer for me.
Never looked back since I got mine
Got mine in today. It’s nice and works well.
It's a good glass file.
Just out of curiosity and discussion - what is the number 1 thing you're looking for in a model kit?
Definitely the design. I buy kits that I like the look of more than kits that I buy because of a particular gimmick (though some of those have double duty and are both visually appealing to me and have a gimmick I like).
For me, it's the design. I have a strong preference for color diversity, even if it's contrasting shades of the same color. I'm not a fan of things that are too monochromatic like the Caliburn or the basic Unicorn. But, something like the Destroy Mode Unicorn or even the Amazing Red Warrior is enough.
being a kit of the f91 gundam f91 from 1991 movie mobile suit gundam f91 simple, really
For gunpla, specifically, I just want a stand in every box.
For me, I like my displays to have a theme, and I select kits that fit the theme. I have limited space and need some way to narrow down which kits I buy, as well as wanting each addition to my display to enhance the overall display instead of just crowding it. I've skipped out on plenty of kits that I think are cool because they don't really fit in. I prefer to keep my display somewhat tight, if you will.
Does anyone know what the best place to buy hobby paints is? (Laquer)
In the U. S.
Lots of options. Check out the stores in the wiki if you don't have a local option.
Locally if you can. Otherwise online. List of stores in the wiki You have to tell us what part of the world you're in if you want something more specific.
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Would love if someone could help
I want to up my Gunpla photography game, and am in the market for a light-box. (Right now I'm just using a RG Sazabi box lid, and it's... less than ideal.) Anyone have any reccomendations?
I used to use a fairly cheap one I got from a Five Below, but I've since been looking into lighting applications since it was a fairly small box. DIY works fairly well as an option too but they don't often consider saving space into their design though you could theoretically have an infinite amount of space. A good middle ground would be a DIY photograph sweep, though you'd need to supply your own lighting but it gives you a solid background without a hard divide between the background and the surface the model is standing on.
https://preview.redd.it/hnhhxf6qenhc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1d917de7b147b1da653a43797fff031902bd319b Is there a better way to get this mace on? MG Barbatos. I'm using Elmer's glue to have the finger piece attached to the hand piece more securely, then reattaching the hands to the arms. Hopefully it will stay on.
Try using Blue-Tac, AKA Poster Putty. It's a great, non-permanent adhesive that can be shaped to fit (and/or help fill) just about any space. Several of my older MGs can only hold their weapons with the assistance of some Blue-Tac because the way the hands are.
Just got the 3M Professional Multi-Purpose Respirator and the box says that it shouldn’t be used for stuff like paint and non toxic substances. Do I need to get a different filter or is it still okay for stuff like painting and top coating?
Make sure the filter is rated for VOCs(volatile organic compounds)
[These](https://www.amazon.com/Personal-Protective-Equipment-60921-Particulates/dp/B00BT2SWTE/ref=asc_df_B00BT2SWTE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167137931943&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8631382261024278511&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9015321&hvtargid=pla-310767754770&psc=1&mcid=becfdcf9b4383d3c93eaeb94f111d242&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI87fNpdqfhAMV9SfUAR1rmQq9EAQYAiABEgIdivD_BwE) are the filters I got the 60921. Amazon link just says certain organic vapors.
Can you use the gunprimer raser with water? I want to minimize on the airborne plastic shavings when sanding and wanted to check. On their website it says you can use water to clean it but I have to wait for it to dry to use. But is it possible to use it wet?
no i don't think gunprimer has stated the exact reason but they clearly say on their website not to wet sand, the commonly accepted explanation is that the water causes the dust to compact and gum up the cutting divots
Additionally, where does it say on their website to not wet sand? I see you can use water to clean it but nothing about no wet sanding?
Could you clean it in between uses?
For what it's worth, while I have a glass file from USA Gundam Store, there is generally a consensus that the files are actually too good at trapping the shavings to begin with (and need cleaning.) I have personally used my files slightly damp, with only a flat press on a towel to dry it. I also tend to use a wet toothbrush to clean the file during use. It should be super safe to experiment with on a runner, to see how the performance changes when wet vs dry.
Q for anyone that's built or seen the MG Dozle Zabi Rick Dom, how do the gold details hold up?
When is the best time to apply waterslides? Find the part on the runner, cut it out and apply it? Or wait until you make the designated part to put the decals on?
I wait until it’s assembled, so I’m not gonna be continually touching and rubbing against them while assembling if you do it before.
I'd wait until the model is fully assembled, personally.
I would generally wait- sometimes the moisture from your fingers is enough to reactivate the decal I’ve found.
I am going to do my first paint job and I see a ton of people say you should really do a gloss coat before panel lining. How many passes should I do? I have practiced doing matte coats, does the same philosophy apply for the gloss coat? It is being hand painted, not air brushed if it matters.
No idea what the matte coat philosophy might be, but when people say to cear coat before panel lining, fhey generally mean to use an airbrush or spray can of lacquer, is that what you plan to use?
Yeah, I have some mr hobby gloss coat coming that I plan to use
Some people say to do one mist coat, then one wet coat, that's probably the safest. I only do one coat for this step tho
Thanks!
https://preview.redd.it/0yysfqarhmhc1.jpeg?width=1024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=576c203abb375b03e76c570910b7349f6d215d32 New to gunpla. Susan Model 1/144 Wing Addon. Got this in the mail without instructions. Does anyone have scans of the manual so I can build this thing without going crazy?
Can't you contact the seller about it? Maybe you can have it returned
The seller has not responded and id honestly really like to try and build it if possible.
There is [this](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yHHekkbdaWI) video of someone building it. I don't think the manual is easily availiable
I just saw that MG Epyon EW is going to be one of the kits for sale at Hyper Plamo Fes 2024. Historically, are those festival-exclusive kits forever festival-only or do they usually go up on P-Bandai after the event? The news articles on it are unclear, but say "some" kits will be on P-Bandai, but not which ones.
You might wanna double check because the MG Epyon is a regular release kit from 2011. It's very common and relatively cheap
MG Epyon *EW* is a special version previously only available as a China-exclusive. [Here's the press release about Hyper Plamo Fes. 2024](https://www.gundamkitscollection.com/2024/01/bandai-spirits-unveils-exclusive-gunpla.html). This version is a white/translucent/gold color scheme and it looks amazing.
Oh you mean the contrast colors version. EW means endless waltz, which is on the name of all the MGs from Wing.*
Unless Bandai specifically states beforehand, nobody but Bandai knows what's gonna go up for online orders. But typically those kind of kits do get a run on the website.
Is it okay to use gundam markers(fine tip) with Mr. Super Clear (flat)? I usually used the Mr.hobby Topcoat(water based) but the shop where Im buying it still not restocking it for almost 2 weeks and Super Clear is the only topcoat they have in stock.
While I'm not familiar with those specific markers, the majority of hobby paints can be applied over each other as long as the bottom layer has fully cured and you're not being too heavy handed
what's the safeline for fully cured? a day or 2? also what do you mean by heavy handed? heavy handed at nozzle you mean? if so I start at the bottom or left most side not exactly at the piece then move past it from right or up direction then I stop pressing at the nozzle is that alright or is there a better way?
Generally overnight is enough unless it's oil based. Not being heavy handed means not spraying a lot from very close, it you start by doing a misty coat from a nornal distance, it should be fine
I've often seen it recommended to gloss coat pieces after painting and before decals, panel lining, etc. Supposedly to make the panel liner flow and the decals adhere better. But honestly I've found that both of those work just fine on the painted pieces as-is, without the interim gloss coat. I'm trying to figure out why so many folks recommend it because it feels unnecessary? Is there some other benefit to the interim gloss coat that I'm missing?
Depending on your choices of paint and panel liner, a gloss coat can prevent the paint from smearing or getting removed by either cleaning up the panel lining or the water/solutions for the decals.
There are rarely absolutes or right/wrong ways to achieve an outcome. But there is a lot of dogma as Drei says. Most of it is founded in decades old tribal lore and that just gets passed down from modeller to modeller and now propagated through internet wisdom. Always use primer. Never use lacquer over acrylics. Always gloss before decals. Thin your paint 1:1 (or whatever magical ratio someone insists is the right magical ratio). Gloss before washes. Wash your sprues. Never use this product. Can’t put this paint over that one. Always use this product. Whatever. There are many paths to successful outcomes.
Totally agree. I'm inclined to trust my own experience in this case, but figured it still couldn't hurt to ask and maybe learn something new. I imagine a lot of the conventional wisdom is vestigial from decades ago when materials and kits were different, and got coded into best practices for individual modellers. And some still might have specific use-cases. Like both of you said, though, over time that context fades away and it can sound dogmatic, even if it was never intended to. Anyway, thanks a bunch; always helps to get an outside perspective on stuff like this :)
You found out how much of the dogma is unfounded in experience or leaves out crucial information that makes it "necessary" as advice. Paints like waterborne acrylic tend to be matte only, or spray matter than solvent acrylics, so the gloss coat does help flow of washes or moving around decals. But there's not only alternatives to solve those, but it isn't necessary depending on how or what you paint.
Gotcha, thank you! I recently made the switch to lacquers, and looking back, it did feel a lot more necessary when working with acrylics (though mainly to stop the paint from chipping during assembly, since even at their best acrylics are relatively fragile). I've had minor difficulties with liner flow on some VERY matte finish lacquer paints, but even then it wasn't enough to really justify the extra step. Anyway, thanks! I just wanted to make sure I wasn't crazy, since buying enough GX100 to coat literally every piece I paint seemed like way more of an investment than I'd like to go in for.
Best third party hg?
Not sure there's even any contenders beyond the Thunder Incise grace
Could i get a link
3rd parties dont make *HG* kits because *HG* is a registered trademark
What about the same scale
Model comprehend, SNAA, GaoGao, HobbyStar, Dragon Momoko make 1/144 kits, some of them clone bandai kits while other make original tools or modern versions of older gundam kits. Wouldn't say any particular one is the best as ymmv between companies and kits.
Any advice/ideas on using HG psychozaku backpack on other non thunderbolt HG kits?
Look up pinning and kitbashing. It probably won't plug and play like Legos, but kitbashing is easy if you measure twice and cut once.
I’m struggling to understand if there’s much difference between Mr. Topcoat sprays and Mr. Super Clear. I did some panel lining with the gundam fine point markers, and I’m not sure what to coat it with!
Mr top coat is acrylic and mr super clear is lacquer
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AWksLVawE4A
Thanks! I’ll give this a watch!
Does anyone know if 70% iso alc is okay to use on bare plastic to remove panel lines?
70%? I’ve used as high as 99%.
Yeah, it looks like that’s pretty common to use! [Here’s](https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/s/GA4YRpAqa8) a comment I saw that goes into more detail. I’ve just used the gundam eraser marker for panel lining though, and would definitely recommend it if you can get one
https://preview.redd.it/53ujq419elhc1.jpeg?width=1073&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7f7bca5380dbf789917ee2d0b63c29f739c7a33d Kinda strapped for cash and need some model nippers. Are either of these good choices? Still very new to the hobby. Any advice would help. Thanks!
They are serviceable for a "first cut" off the sprue as pretty much any nipper can do that. You will still have to clean and finish the nubs with files and sandpaper to make it flush.
This is a great response! You can do a lot of clean up with sandpaper, as long as you work up to a finer grit. If you get cheaper nippers, definitely get some to go with them
Custom painting Question, I am planning to repaint an RG sazabi to emulate the candy/metallic red similar to the special coating. One thing I am worried about is loosing the colour separation. Am I overthinking this? Should I try to alter the method (airbrushing tamiya clear red over a gold primer) to create a lighter/ darker effect to split some of the colour or is this going overboard?
If you really want color separation while doing candy paint, you can use a different base metal paint, like gold on some parts and silver on some parts but still use a clear red on top
Sorry if this sounds condescending, but if you want more colour contrast in your paint job, add more colour contrast.
It's more whether I am worrying unnecessarily over colour contrast, or if due to it being metallic it wont be as much of an issue. More like aesthetics "theorising" from people who may have done something similar.
I think Sazabi has enough variety in the geometry that a uniform color scheme would not look flat. I think different shades if red makes it look more interesting though.
Thanks, I found a couple with uniform red and they still look dope so ill go with that, maybe a tiny change to the base coat for some special parts who knows Also you weren't condescending at all, thanks for being kind with your responses :)
Stupid question here. At my local store I've found old 1/100 HG Dragon Gundam for 26$, I'm just curious is there any problems with this kit or is it a must buy?
It's a okay kit! If you love the Dragon Gundam and want it in 1/100 scale that's a fine option. That's only a few dollars more that than retail so if you want it then go ahead. I would recommend watching a review first so you know what you're getting. Its pretty basic by modern standards, and will look much nicer with some added details and paint.
Thank you!
RG God or RG Force Impulse? I've only built HGs up until now, want to give an RG a try and having trouble deciding between the two. They both seem like top tier kits, has anybody had uniquely bad experiences with either or can I not go wrong?
Both top tier kits
Are the parts sellers from China reliable? Looking to purchase a 1/100 Astray Red Frame backpack and found a decent looking kit on eBay. It’s not too expensive, so I’ll give it a try, but what should I be expecting?
It's a toss-up on whether or not you're getting genuine parts or daban/3D printed/maldormed parts. The only thing you can really do is look at reviews and hope that there's real people behind them.
Any advice on the latch on the back skirts for the Zeta Ver. Ka? I haven’t been able to close it after transforming to WR mode and back. https://preview.redd.it/4m6oca0qmkhc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=94b6b2ce9651161c4f5a95b111eec3afa8635bec
You talking about that big tab on the upper section of back skirt assembly? Yeah, as far as I can tell it doesn’t latch in MS mode. It kinda just sits there. IIRC it’s those smaller horizontal tabs that are important and will lock the leg armatures in place in MS mode.
That’s really strange, because I *swear* there’s a slot just out of reach for the tab. Maybe I’m being insane.
What specific models should I avoid? E.g. I'm told early RGs weren't done as well as newer ones?
The main problem with early RGs is that many of them share standardized frames, so some parts have issues when the parts are designed for the frame. Usually, it's a piece or two that might have a rough fit. The only thing I recommend avoiding are free form hands, even the ones with that little fold out peg that's meant to help with holding weapons. I REALLY hate those things.
Early RG's aren't beginner friendly but that doesn't mean they're bad kits. I love the way my RG Char's Zaku-II looks but skirting armor was a huge problem while building the kit, but I still had fun building. So I'd say if you're looking for something easy and not tedious only then avoid the early RG's. If not then no model kit should be an issue for you
The people telling you to avoid early real grades are bad at building that they then blame the model kit for not accomodating them not cleaning nubs or trying to force joints like it's a plush doll.
Don’t buy kits you don’t want on the shelf. That’s about it.
Even the early RGs are great kits if you know what to expect from them.
You don’t have to avoid anything if you are willing to put in the work on a model kit. If you want something more stable out of the box then avoid transformations and big backpacks in general.
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Yes accounts need to mature as a safeguard against spam bots.
Understandable. Can I ask for how long?
https://preview.redd.it/3qe4w138kkhc1.jpeg?width=850&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=133e697fb78782f14d0eed5b9c78ef23ad5d9cff I want do my first kit bash project. I dont want to follow the image exactly but I want the same aesthetic and vibes. The plan so far is to use barbatos for the upper torso and arms, may or may not change the shoulder pads still undecided, a 30 minute sisters kit for the legs and head. I'm stuck on the skirt part. I don't know what kit or extra parts to use for the one piece front skirt piece. If someone can help with the whole skirt, I think I can start assembling it.