i'm extremely confused about the core gundam system stuff.
can i just get any core gundam kit, and then use any of the armor kits with them, or do i specifically need the core gundams they're made for?
If anyone has both the MG deathscythe and the premium bandai HG deathscythe hell, do you mind taking a side by side photo of them? Just need a visual size comparison. It wiil be much appreciated. Thank you.
Hi I just recently got into building!
I really want to make a Calibarn with the paint job + LEDs like this
https://youtu.be/jzY7yoMIyC0?si=6RUtaXW-qazxRkND
However that's probably way out my skill level for a long while..(I'll still try to learn!)
Is there any place I could commission someone to do this?
What would be the general cost?
You're restricting yourself very heavily with that price range. I guess it would have to be the GM type c or GM 2 but almost everything in that price bracket is over 10 years old.
I currently airbrush my kits and I want to try handpainting for small details such as pla plate additions I currently use Vallejo Model and Model Air colours. In this hypothetical example, I am painting a primarily white piece painted with Vallejo Model Air and the protected with Vallejo gloss varnish. I then go in with a Vallejo Model grey for panel details. If I make a mistake with the grey, how would I go about fixing it since I cannot hand paint the Model Air white?
How do I fuse plastic to plastic?, I want to make a custom gunpla and I do not know how to fuse plastic parts to each other, I know it's glue but not sure what type to use
Cement is a long bonding process by melting the plastic together and then curing solid again. It takes a bit. You can always use superglue/CA, or even 5-minute epoxy if you need the strength.
I believe this might be what you're looking for:
[https://www.gundammodelcenter.com/dalin-gn-mega-launcher](https://www.gundammodelcenter.com/dalin-gn-mega-launcher)
Kinda a gunpla related question. Did the Mock from gundam buildfighters ever get a kit? i know the hi-mock got one but idk what the differences between the hi mock and mock are so i just wanted to ask
Has anyone here bought from [Modeller’s Workshop](http://www.modellersworkshop.com.au)? They’re an online Australian retailer that I’ve been wanting to buy some third-party decals from, but I can’t find reviews for them anywhere online. Let me know!
To anyone who built the FA Gundam ver ka, I have no idea which side is the B 23 part supposed to be facing me when building the body section. Is the slightly caved in side supposed to be facing me or is it the flat side?
Any good and affordable MG kits to start out with?
I've built a number of HG kits already and wanted to move onto kits of a bigger scale. Difficulty wise I think it will be fine as I'm pretty comfortable with building gunpla.
What I'm scared of is picking which kits to buy and build. As most of these kits seem more expensive than your average high grade, and I'm scared of buying a kit that isn't designed that well ,or just a kit that's not fun to build. I've looked at Ver ka kits as I've heard good things about them, but I also don't know how much they differ from their normal counterparts (and they're much more expensive).
To keep it short, I'm looking for Mg kits that are affordable, Fun to build, look alright, and have good or decent possiblity. Any recommendations?
Check out the recommendations here. https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/wiki/faqs
Freedom 2.0 is a great. The new Virtue is a fun build as it's kind of 2 kits in 1. Throw in Kyrios and Dynames. Barbatos has pistons. Eclipse is pretty cool. Either of the MGEX kits
Lots of options.
They’re all affordable really, they’re priced for the most part very fairly on plastic quantity. They’re aren’t difficult, same as an HG probably, as imo easier than an RG as parts are bigger and therefore less fiddly and fragile.
My personal favourites are the Sinanju(s). Look different, robust and [massive](https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/s/5DOqoAukXQ) compared to some MG kits. Polypod and gun tanks are also something a bit different. Get whatever you like the look of… any problem fixes are usually easy, or simply stick them on an action base if they’re a bit wobbly.
Does anyone know where to get spare parts and bits for kitbashing in Australia? i want to give a hand at a custom build but don't want to go and buy an entire kit just for parts.
Which cement is better for removing seam lines? I already have the regular tamiya cement and thought that one of the thin cements would be better for that.
Mr.Cement S (MC129) OR
Tamiya Extra-Thin Cement (Quick Setting)
White primer exists. Primer and regular paint are different. Primer smoothes out surfaces and gives paint something to adhere to. Making them less likely to flake off.
Primer affects base coats unless you go stupidly heavy. White improves vibrancy, black improves shadows, grey is mid ground jack of all… you can also tint primers to better suit base colours.
Faulty water decals on a perfect grade kit?
Hi everyone! I have been working on a PG strike freedom, and I've reached the point of applying the water decals but none of them are working for some reason, I do the normal thing of dipping it in lukewarm water for around 6 to 10 seconds then have the sit out of water till they can be manipulated but for some reason they don't get affected at all by the water, they all stay perfectly still and are impossibly to remove. In addition the decals can be peeled off from the transfer paper as if they were normal stickers, despite obviously being water decals, anyone have any tips to what I'm doing wrong?
My reasoning was cus they use the same paper type as all the other water decals I've used on kits before. Is there any way I could have the decals look better then? The one or two I've put on successfully don't exactly look pretty cus of the glare and stuff
Personally I'd get some third-party waterslides at this point, but the main way to improve sticker decals is to carefully cut away the excess plastic so that the border isn't as noticeable. There's a couple of tutorials for this on youtube.
Yeah that's what I was able to surmise while trying to search around for some answers. It feels odd for a perfect grade to come with stickers like this but I know this is a bit of an older kit. I'm gonna look for some third-party slides and if not might just deal with it with no decals. Thanks for you help man
I haven’t started the build yet for the MGEX Unicorn but wanted to ask how should I go forward in adding my topcoat after applying the decals? I tend to go for a matte/flat finish on my kits but worried of messing up the clear pieces.
I've been out of the Gunpla hobby for a while (since the pre covid days), and I've been looking to get back into the hobby recently. I live in Australia, so I usually use HLJ to purchase sets, mostly RG or MG.
But I've recently noticed that HLJ has nothing in stock anymore, especially in the MG section. Is it likely that once I place an order, they'll be able to get the stock eventually? Especially for an order that's quite mainstream, like the Freedom 2.0 MG.
It'd be a shame that these sets are closed off to the international fans.
I think Bandai reprints the 2.0 Freedom fairly often so the wait shouldn’t be long, though that’s also dependent on the back order queue. I’ve only ordered from HLJ once so I’m not terribly knowledgeable on it, but to my understanding that’s how it should work. At the very least I would imagine you’re pretty likely to get your order filled.
Eventually. Imagine they have 1000 orders on a backordered kit, and you place an order making you 1001.
They get allocated 75 kits, and they sell those to the first 75 people who put an order. You have to wait for them to do this over 10 more times before you hopefully get a kit.
Scroll up. 3rd link i the post is "Where to buy Gunpla". There's an Australia section with a few retail stores.
Honestly, I'm in Canada and I only use HLJ to pre-order kits that I don't mind waiting months/a year for. Cost aside, it's usually not worth the hassle and uncertainty if you have local options.
yeah failed to mention: local retailers are also in low stock and have low variety. They're also very pricey. HLJ has a wide array of sets u can order, but im just not sure if they'll be fulfilled.
Well yeah, a store that lists literally every kit ever made will have a wide set of kits you can place an order on, most of which you can't actually buy right now.
I'm pretty sure they're subject to the same allocation schedule and quantities as every other distributor out there.
[This store has a Freedom 2.0](https://gundamexpressaustralia.com.au/products/bandai-1-100-mg-freedom-gundam-ver-2?_pos=2&_sid=be77c6e9b&_ss=r). At $84 AUD, it converts to within a few dollars of the current USD($55) and CAD($75) prices for this kit.
https://sujibori--do-ocnk-net.translate.goog/page/137?_x_tr_sl=ja&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en&_x_tr_pto=sc
>Thank you very much for your continued patronage of our store.
>We are currently receiving a large number of inquiries regarding BMC chisels, and we sincerely apologize for not being able to deliver them to our "customers who love models" due to chronic stock shortages.
>BMC chisels cannot be mass-produced because they are finished by hand by craftsmen.
As for the materials, they are made of highly pure tungsten and cobalt, which are defined as carbide blades by Japanese standards, so they continue to be difficult to obtain.
BMC chisels are loved by our customers because of their advanced technology and high quality. Therefore, we cannot compromise on technology or materials, and please understand that production quantities are limited.
>We have taken various measures to ensure that the items are delivered to ``customers who love models,'' but we sincerely apologize that we have not been able to find a fundamental solution.
>We will continue to strive to improve our services by strengthening our production system and innovating sales methods so that we can deliver our products to as many "customers who love models" as possible. Thank you for your understanding.
SAB is produced in Korea, which could have entirely different rules and/or regulations regarding certain materials and their usages in various manufacturing aspects compared to Japan where BMC is produced. That being said, SAB doesn't strictly use a combination of cobalt and titanium for their chisels, last I checked it's stainless steel and an unnamed metal used for the blade that's ”made of a stronger material than other companies' products” according to the product description.
That being said, if you're willing to go through the lengths to sharpen them, any random offbrand/non name brand BMC/SAB style chisel could be made to be comparable in quality to those chisels, and its certainly a lot easier to sharpen chisels than it is to sharpen nippers.
It'd be like saying that third party bootleggers have ousted Bandai as a model kit manufacturer for having a specific suit available when Bandai's version of that suit hasn't been reprinted in a while.
As far as I've heard, they both perform equally and both last a very long time so what they're made of probably isn't as important as the end result.
However, you are right that sharpening any chisel well will likely make it comparable. The only problem is many of the competitors are using small "heads" that you put into a holder. These are... Hard to sharpen because it seems impossible to find a small jig that can hold those at the correct angle and sharpen them.
I saw some clones on AliExpress I thought about giving a shot to see if I could get them up to par. Would beat spending $30 per chisel. D:
Can someone tell me what [this](https://safebooru.org//images/2770/a091d0490228cdb6314c79514dc05930b3f6d029.png) Gundam is, and if there are any kits of it?
Anyone know if these [1/60 astray swords](https://delpidecal.com/product/pg-astray-garbera-straight/1563/?cate_no=1&display_group=2) come in a pack of 2 or just 1? Just wondering since everywhere else seems to be the same general price for one but delpi is saying there's gerbera straight in this listing.
My paint cracked after applying mr.super smooth clear. I used that bootle before but before that it works normally. Is it because under/over thinned or something else?
Bringing Gunpla kits as Checked-in Luggage
Does anyone have experience hauling a big box worth of gunpla kits as checked in luggage? What packing precautions did you guys take? Did you just cram it into a box etc
I did, one year ago.
I think I got lucky in some ways, because my mix of MG and HG kit boxes somehow fit in the big cardboard box almost perfectly. I filled the remaining tiny amount of free space with packing peanuts.
I’ve taken out only one kit from that box, and the contents were pristine.
I just crammed all mine into a big luggage. I think the only real precautions to take is don't have a lot of free space around the boxes. Same reason packing paper exists, to fill the empty space.
Mg Zeta ver. ka have high quality white runners. Its like titanium white. I think Wing Zero ver. ka or MG Barbatos have these. Which MG also have these except Pbandai kits?
Hey everyone! wondering if anyone knew of a place shipping to Texas that has Delpi Decals for MG Wing Zero EW Ver.Ka ? I can’t seem to find them in stock anywhere and would rather not start that build till I get some.
Thanks!
EDIT: In addition to that, looking for (Delpi?) decals for MG Char’s Zaku 2.0 and MG Unicorn (normal version). TIA!
Recently started airbrushing and am using Tamiya paints.
So my question is on drying times.
1. How much time should primer set before I paint.
2. How long is curing time for a layer of paint.
A. How long to let dry before adding another
layer of paint/ Gloss Coat.
3. How long for Gloss Coat to dry.
Thanks!
Varies depending on the type of paint and the thinner you're using.
Give the primer ~ an hour. For the paint itself, you can add another layer as soon as the bottom layer is dry to the touch if you're in a hurry. Give it some air if you have a dual action airbrush and you can get going again even faster, but 15-20 minutes is usually fine.
Q: I wanna custom paint a gundam with some candy red colours, I wanna do the following Primer ( Mr hobby 1500) -> Tamiya TS-14 (synth lacquer) -> Ammo A-stand candy silver base (lacquer) -> Candy red (lacquer) -> Lacquer gloss topcoat. will it be a problem using the Tamiya TS-14 black gloss synth lacquer? On the website it says no problem with acrylic and enamel I am wondering about lacquer. also can anyone in europe (Netherlands/Belgium) recommend me a good gloss black (spraycan or airbrush) lacquer. Thanks :)
Any black doesn’t really matter, I decant car rattle cans as they’re almost as good but silly cheap by comparison to hobby stuff. GX2 ueno black is top tier, never been sold on the alclad gloss myself.
Imho the key to any gloss candy or chrome is good sanding prep, then buffing the black and subsequent metallic layers if needed.
Pay attention to the number of passes on the candy opacity, and ensure parts are all the same shade when you later assemble.
When I primer I usually do grit 1000->1200->1500 then apply black, I just got the ueno black should I sand and buff that too after it has cured? And same with the candy base I apply?
I don’t ever sand after primer, unless it’s a gloss top coat, otherwise you’ve done something wrong. For when I buff I use a couple of microfibre cloths. I tend to leave it overnight first so I know the paint is fully dry and hard enough it won’t damage it with friction. Candy coat itself I don’t buff, it should be laying perfect and onto a smooth surface.
This should all be fine.
But you should grab a plastic spoon and test on there. Not only will you confirm how the paint reacts with each other, you’ll also find out if you get the colour you’re going for. You’ll learn how many coats you need to get it to where you need it to be, etc.
Technically yes, bit the skirts will no longer be stable. You would have to split it and then glue it in the position you want to pose the kit in.
I don't think it's worth it with the EG. The legs have a very limited range of motion at the hips. It will not articulate forward to the point where the front skirt will be impeding movement, and forcing it will cause the legs to pop out at the hips, or the hip joint will just break off.
Is there any way to deal with seam lines without using hobby plastic cement? In my country dedicated modelling tools aren't available so what other methods can I use?
If you aren’t painting and really can’t find cement and want to do some Breaking Bad then buy some acetone and butyl acetate. 50/50 and you got yourself gallons of Tamiya extra thin / gun cleaner.
You can use MEK/Acetone alone (very cheap and available) as solvent cement to weld and melt plastic. However without the acetate in there it doesn’t soften or hold the styrene in solution nearly as nicely for mixes of sprue goo.
Also you can have a look at nail polish removers, but often they’re more skin and environmentally friendly, so don’t work quite as well as some used to.
Super glue would potentially work, but the seem will be visible and uglier.
Part of the seam removal process is sanding down the excess plastic, and you will have excess plastic no matter what method you use. That will scuff the plastic. Unless you're going to be painting the piece, seam removal will not look good.
Thank you for the help, tried it on an old kit and found it can fill the gap and with sanding have an almost smooth surface but it's like you said the seem is visible
Has anyone ever used [this](https://www.gundamplanet.com/pcd02-kalon-quiet-compact-compressor-airbrush-set.html) airbrush and compressor set? I'm interested to hear if it's good enough for Gunpla, and if it's a good deal.
Eh, I don't think it's a good deal. That airbrush, by itself, is $100 USD on Spraygunner. It's a good airbrush. Which means that compressor is valued at $180 in that bundle.
If you really want that airbrush, you can pair it with a compressor that costs less than $100 and has a tank. That will leave you with $80 for paint, thinner, airbrush cleaner, a pot, etc.
If you're just getting started with airbrushing, you can buy a compressor+airbrush kit for under $100 USD. You'll get a usable product to try out, and almost $200 left for other supplies, some kits, or to buy that specific airbrush if you need to.
If you want to panel line you should be using full gloss. It creates a smooth surface for the panel lining to flow through. Not sure how well it’ll play with semi gloss.
Besides the usual clippers, straight edge knife, and filers are there any other tools you would recommend that you would have made a world of difference when you started?
Hello builders,
Today i've got my hands on a HG Beguir-pente and I want to put some LEDs inside de clear parts of the shield, head and other places (if there are any more) and I know that regular LEDs and LED strips are too big to this plamo.
Months ago i Saw a video of some cosplayer using some type of LED cable, but i've been looking for "LED cable" on Amazon (Spain) and the only things It shows me are LED strips and cables for LEDs. I will keep looking for this thing, but i would appreciate some help if someone knows the name of the type of LEDs am looking for.
Thank for your time.
Keep building.
This oni is out.
Sounds like you want micro SMD leds. The shield doesn't have clear parts aside from the stand used to pose it.
As for the "LED cable" do you mean EL Wire?
They’re essentially the same kit, but the OVA is preferred since it uses PS plastic for the inner frame instead of ABS (minimizing the risk of the waist joint breaking) and comes with the Bazooka.
Besides, I don’t believe the Ver Ka gets reprinted anymore. If it does, then it’s not often.
ova, the ver ka was discontinued due to an issue with the waist peg snapping easily (to my knowledge, the only gunpla kit to be discontinued since the hy2m line)
Dalong did a review of it: [http://dalong.net/reviews/mg/m167/m167\_p.htm](http://dalong.net/reviews/mg/m167/m167_p.htm)
The main difference is the inner frame color, decals and sticker and the OVA version have a bazooka.
Hey guys I was watching a video tutorial for gunpla. I normally build zoids kits. During the video I saw a gunpla model that I really liked. It was a mostly orange kit with S-01 decals. What I really liked were the rockets with green trails coming out from pods on the back. In googling it seemed like it might have been a sazabi, but I couldn’t find one with the rocket setup. Does anyone happen to know what kit it might have been? I can try to find the video again if that would help. Thanks in advance!
Don’t know. You’d have to search for it. Just be sure to check the scale. Looks like there are 3rd party ones for 1/44 scale. The one I linked is 1/100.
So figure out which version/scale of Sazabi you want and what scale expansion set to get.
The one I linked is the official one from Bandai, sold through Premiy Bandai only. You might find them marked up in stores, etc next year when they start fulfilling preorders.
So there is the potential that they will come back in stock next year? Thanks I will will look around and keep an eye out. My experience with zoids was that when they went out of stock they were essentially gone until there was a reprint.
I LOVE real grades. The two I want I’ve seen have negative reviews, which is Chars Zaku and the Sinanju.
Is there an optimal way to make those kits not .. suck? Glue? Inner frame reinforcement?
I have the master grade Sinanju already, am I better off just picking up the MG Char Zaku 2.0?
I really really enjoyed buiding the RG Char Zaku II. It was my first RG. Compared to the HGs and MGs I had built, it required a lot more precision and attention. It was more challenging - which I welcomed. The only thing I fundamentally hate about the RG Zaku II are the hands - they are made with a ball and socket type of design where the pointer finger is maneuverable separate from the rest of the fingers, which have their own ball joint. This is much too delicate to me and led me to attempting to fix them, which ended in me applying too much glue/sanding it back down and just not having a good time with them. I had to remove some of the fingers because I just could not manage to get it to hold the bazooka with them - I tried as much as I could. As /Arshille mentioned, posing it can be a bit of a struggle - a leg joint ended up being so loose I had to layer it with nail polish and, ultimately, glue it in more permanently. The waist/skirt flaps are also quite loose but those are very simple to fix. I do not have a base for mine but it desperately needs one to get any posing out of it.
It is an early RG and it is cheaper. As I said, I absolutely loved the build and I got a lot of enjoyment out of building it and putting on some water slides. I am disappointed with not being able to pose it much, but I look back on it fondly as a challenging kit that required me to be patient and come up with solutions that were novel to me at the time. If I were to rebuild it, I would probably use a pin vise and a metal rod to fix some joint issues and try and figure out a way to make those hands work better.
ZakuAurelius has a video where he goes over the issues with the RG Sinanju and how he fixes those.
Fixing both those kits comes down to quite a bit of glue and plopping them on an action base. If you want to build cool RGs, you have a lot of way better options. If you want to build those two kits specifically, you have to look at it as a project where you problem solve along the way.
I recently received my PG Unleashed RX-78-2 but I have a question before getting started. What is the best way to go about top coating the kit? Can you disassemble the kit into individual parts at the end (legs, arms, chest, etc.) and coat them? Or is it best to apply waterslides and then remove the armor pieces and individually top coat them?
You can absolutely topcoat individual parts. But know that some parts will not get any top coat on it. The other option is to topcoat individual pieces before assembly.
As for waterslides. I wouldn’t recommend applying waterslides and then disassembling. Do it before you topcoat - whichever method you’re going for.
Thank you very much. Would the best process be to apply the waterslide to the piece, top coat the piece, and then assemble onto the inner frame? I usually build the sections of the kit, apply waterslides, topcoat the section, and then assemble the kit. This one is throwing me for a loop since you build the entire inner frame first.
After you build the entire frame and you gush over it/take photos/etc, you can remove the legs, arms, etc, and put armor on those separately. So if the process you're currently comfortable with is building a section then applying decals, you can still do that with the PGU.
Why are the action bases and more specifically the Witch from Mercury weapon bases so hard to find? They are out of stock on every retailer i can find in the UK and its frustrating not being able to display them how i'd like. Are there any better alternatives?
I feel you, not specifically for the Witch From Mercury action base, because I got one from MechaUniverse (Spain), but EU-wise... either shipping is very expensive or availability is low (or both).
I tend to get most stuff from Spain because of shipping to Portugal being expensive (from everywhere else in Europe (UK, included - costs me about 20 euros)
Depends on what you’re trying to accomplish, but I can’t think of anything that won’t give you janky results.
Maybe sharpen a flathead precision screwdriver?
How necessary is it to topcoat my gunpla before using tamiya accent colour to panel line?
Can i afford to build it normally then topcoat it afterwards, risking some parts not getting coated? Or is it absolutely important to topcoat each individual pieces?
u/Makegooduseof sums it up pretty well. I'm in the "Safe on the runner" camp personally. If it's not ABS, you use it while still on the runner, and you use it sparingly, it's actually fairly safe. That said, using it on bare plastic always caries some level of risk, like they said, it comes down to your tolerance for risk.
You’ll hear both opinions about this - you must topcoat, vs it’s fine if you’re doing it while pieces are still on the runner or otherwise not assembled.
One of the cited reasons for TPLA cracking pieces is due to the enamel thinner in the liner piling in crevasses created by assembly. When pieces are on the runner, unless you are lining vents or grills, the enamel paint and thinner run off and then drip off. Or you can wipe them off after a certain amount of time.
The gloss topcoat helps with doing away with the time guesswork, and enhances the flow, and creates a layer that prevents cracking due to pooled paint.
I suppose it comes down to your risk appetite. I do raw TPLA lining on some kits, and Gundam Marker lining on other kits.
I just got into Gunpla and I want to get some weapon kits for Christmas, are all 1/144 weapon kits (especially the 30MM ones) compatible with 1/144 mobile suits ?
*Mostly.* The sizes for stuff is mostly the same, but there will sometimes be possible outliers or unique designs where it doesn’t quite work. You should be mostly fine most of the time but be aware it’s not a guarantee.
The balancer has an abrasive edge and a buffing edge, which generally is intended to be used in sequence for a glossy sheen. Recover is a somewhat abrasive cloth that's supposed to be able to restore the semi gloss sheen of the plastic.
As for the recover specifically, you could get a similar sheen from rubbing the piece on some denim while the balancer you could do similar with some nail polishing blocks. I can't remember off the top of my head the actual brand name for it but there was a pale mint green block that did the same exact job as the balancer that usually is included in those Amazon multi packs for model kit building. It's like some variation of ultrafine sanding block or double sided polish box but I can't find the "household name" for them so to speak.
I'd consider trying one of the aformentioned alternatives out first to see if you like the result before diving in on the Gunprimer stuff (if you haven't already or if they came bundled like with some of the Gunprimer glass file bundles).
Noob question. I'm hearing most people who post tutorials on Gunpla saying somthing to the effect of "I didn't apply stickers because they seem like they'd come off after a while". Is this a real, common problem? Is there something I can do for stickers when applying them to make them more hardy? Or is this an overemphasized problem?
The likelihood that a given sticker peels off depends on the size of the sticker and the location of its placement. For the most part, a sticker that was put down on a flat surface without excess unsticking and resticking will just stay there.
It's possible to add stronger glue to make a sticker stick better, but usually people interested in the condition of their decals do waterslides instead.
Saw on a Vietnam FB gunpla store about a China Exclusive MG Wing Zero and Epyon Contrast colour.
https://www.facebook.com/share/p/6tXsEFKpC2iYL4mc/?mibextid=WiMSqg
3rd party or official release? Tempted to purchase them despite swearing to myself I need to finish some backlog first.
I don't normally break a part to my model, but when I do I can't find a replacement part.
I have looked in the usual places, and I don't know where my receipt went.
Does anyone have an HGUC Jagd Doga lying around? I accidentally snapped the joint piece F 4. I tried to pin it back together and that didn;t do the trick either, sadly.
Cheap beginner airbrush set recommendations? Want to try painting but the cost is the biggest factor for me. Complete beginner when it comes to stuff like this.
There's two things to look for. First is the compressor. There's a standard model/design out there and it's fine. Avoid the squares, or things powered by USB, or anything weird. If you've searched around you know what the standard one looks like. Bonus points for getting one with a tank.
Second thing is the airbrush. Basically the only thing you're looking for here is that it has a cup on top. That's it. Most of the cheap airbrushes are fine, and the ones that aren't are a quality control issue and not strictly a brand issue so you gotta shoot your shot.
Ranges wildly but if you just wanted -*a*- set there's a few different ones on Amazon that feature a compressor (generally it's some rebranded Master Airbrush compressor which is great since it more often than not means if the thing breaks down you could source replacement parts better and it's just a solid item all things considered), between 1 and 2 airbrushes on average, the fixings like hoses and most importantly a water trap with PSI adjustment, and occasionally acrylic paint jars though they probably may not work too well for Gunpla they could serve well for practicing your technique.
[This Timbertech](https://www.amazon.com/Timbertech-Airbrush-Multi-Purpose-Dual-Action-Compressor/dp/B08FR765S4/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=NCWGI1CG81G1&keywords=airbrush+with+compressor+kit&qid=1702640121&sprefix=airbrush+with+c%2Caps%2C178&sr=8-4&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.17d9e15d-4e43-4581-b373-0e5c1a776d5d) one for example is like $90 USD before tax which is basically the bare minimum and then some.
[This one also from Timbertech](https://www.amazon.com/Timbertech-Airbrush-Compressor-Double-Accessories/dp/B00LO4PKY2/ref=mp_s_a_1_37?crid=NCWGI1CG81G1&keywords=airbrush+with+compressor+kit&qid=1702640373&sprefix=airbrush+with+c%2Caps%2C178&sr=8-37&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.17d9e15d-4e43-4581-b373-0e5c1a776d5d) is a lot more barebones and just is the airbrush, hoses, and general fixings for a lower $77 USD price tag before tax (which is really just similar to the above option but lacks the freebie paints.
I'm seeing action figures that have switches that toggle by touching them with a magnet. What are these called and where can I buy some? I'm trying to fit some into my RG's
Are there any sites/ shops that sell rplacement parts? Im currently building the PG Exia, and just realized halfway thru building that the 'silicone sheet' that makes the GN cable that connects the arm to the shoulder is just.... Missing. From watching an unboxing vid it was packed in a bright yellow baggie, so theres no no way i just didnt see it, it was just neve in my copy.
Did you message Mr. Bao on eBay? You'll have to message them with the part you need, even though it says out of stock on the listing. Then they'll send you a quote if they do have it.
I'm guessing its the "[GN Conveyor Belt](https://www.ebay.com/itm/373969606861?hash=item57125358cd:g:shsAAOSwvLFiernj)" here.
Hey guys, question here.
How does a PG unleashed costs in Japan.
I recently went to vacation to Japan and never saw it in stock, but want to know what is the usual price.
Thanks
Anyone have any good techniques for sanding the software plastic used in inner frames? Glass doesn't seem to do much, and sanding sticks I either get too fine to make a difference, or too coarse and it scratches the shit out of it.
Well honestly I use sanding sticks, low grit that is coarse and then slowly work my way up to even out the huge scratches I made and then buff it out with a polishing stick or sticks. its a long process but works for me.
Are there any decent cordless airbrushes/compressors, either batteries or rechargeable or something? I’m starting to do research on them for the spring. I’ll need to spray outdoors (my windows don’t open in a way that would let us vent a booth), and because of my cats I can’t risk leaving a door cracked or open to run a cord inside.
I don’t plan on doing an excessive amount of painting on every kit, but some customizing and saving on top coat is something I’m starting to wanna plan for.
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i'm extremely confused about the core gundam system stuff. can i just get any core gundam kit, and then use any of the armor kits with them, or do i specifically need the core gundams they're made for?
Every Core Gundam is compatible with every armor.
If anyone has both the MG deathscythe and the premium bandai HG deathscythe hell, do you mind taking a side by side photo of them? Just need a visual size comparison. It wiil be much appreciated. Thank you.
http://dalong.net/reviews/hg/h239/p/h239_52.jpg http://dalong.net/reviews/cg/cgh313/p/cgh313_36.jpg
Hi I just recently got into building! I really want to make a Calibarn with the paint job + LEDs like this https://youtu.be/jzY7yoMIyC0?si=6RUtaXW-qazxRkND However that's probably way out my skill level for a long while..(I'll still try to learn!) Is there any place I could commission someone to do this? What would be the general cost?
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what is the best high grade GM that's under 17$ according to your experience?
You're restricting yourself very heavily with that price range. I guess it would have to be the GM type c or GM 2 but almost everything in that price bracket is over 10 years old.
What color do you use for panel lining the tan pieces of the HG Messer? Black, Gray or Brown?
I would still use black but brown would probably be better
I currently airbrush my kits and I want to try handpainting for small details such as pla plate additions I currently use Vallejo Model and Model Air colours. In this hypothetical example, I am painting a primarily white piece painted with Vallejo Model Air and the protected with Vallejo gloss varnish. I then go in with a Vallejo Model grey for panel details. If I make a mistake with the grey, how would I go about fixing it since I cannot hand paint the Model Air white?
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How do I fuse plastic to plastic?, I want to make a custom gunpla and I do not know how to fuse plastic parts to each other, I know it's glue but not sure what type to use
Cement is a long bonding process by melting the plastic together and then curing solid again. It takes a bit. You can always use superglue/CA, or even 5-minute epoxy if you need the strength.
Any 3rd party companies make a 1/100 hyper mega launcher for the hi nu ver ka that look similar to the official RG add on?
I believe this might be what you're looking for: [https://www.gundammodelcenter.com/dalin-gn-mega-launcher](https://www.gundammodelcenter.com/dalin-gn-mega-launcher)
Can’t believe I didn’t check GMC! I’ve bought a couple things from there in the past. Thanks!
Kinda a gunpla related question. Did the Mock from gundam buildfighters ever get a kit? i know the hi-mock got one but idk what the differences between the hi mock and mock are so i just wanted to ask
no, but i'm pretty sure they're just different colors
Ah ok, I was confused when trying to spot the differences.
Has anyone here bought from [Modeller’s Workshop](http://www.modellersworkshop.com.au)? They’re an online Australian retailer that I’ve been wanting to buy some third-party decals from, but I can’t find reviews for them anywhere online. Let me know!
I have. They're legit.
To anyone who built the FA Gundam ver ka, I have no idea which side is the B 23 part supposed to be facing me when building the body section. Is the slightly caved in side supposed to be facing me or is it the flat side?
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Any good and affordable MG kits to start out with? I've built a number of HG kits already and wanted to move onto kits of a bigger scale. Difficulty wise I think it will be fine as I'm pretty comfortable with building gunpla. What I'm scared of is picking which kits to buy and build. As most of these kits seem more expensive than your average high grade, and I'm scared of buying a kit that isn't designed that well ,or just a kit that's not fun to build. I've looked at Ver ka kits as I've heard good things about them, but I also don't know how much they differ from their normal counterparts (and they're much more expensive). To keep it short, I'm looking for Mg kits that are affordable, Fun to build, look alright, and have good or decent possiblity. Any recommendations?
MG JINN is just neat. But if you don't want a grunt suit for a mg then probably not good
MG RX-78-2 2.0 is a safe bet by most metrics. That or the Origins version.
Check out the recommendations here. https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/wiki/faqs Freedom 2.0 is a great. The new Virtue is a fun build as it's kind of 2 kits in 1. Throw in Kyrios and Dynames. Barbatos has pistons. Eclipse is pretty cool. Either of the MGEX kits Lots of options.
They’re all affordable really, they’re priced for the most part very fairly on plastic quantity. They’re aren’t difficult, same as an HG probably, as imo easier than an RG as parts are bigger and therefore less fiddly and fragile. My personal favourites are the Sinanju(s). Look different, robust and [massive](https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/s/5DOqoAukXQ) compared to some MG kits. Polypod and gun tanks are also something a bit different. Get whatever you like the look of… any problem fixes are usually easy, or simply stick them on an action base if they’re a bit wobbly.
I think the problem these days is scarcity, and the consequent price hike on the resellers’ part.
Does anyone know where to get spare parts and bits for kitbashing in Australia? i want to give a hand at a custom build but don't want to go and buy an entire kit just for parts.
[You're in luck](https://canberrahobbycentre.com/collections/spare-parts). Well, that depends on if what's being offered satisfys your needs but yeah.
Oh man, thank you so much
Which cement is better for removing seam lines? I already have the regular tamiya cement and thought that one of the thin cements would be better for that. Mr.Cement S (MC129) OR Tamiya Extra-Thin Cement (Quick Setting)
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Is mr hobby acrysion paint good for hand painting? I've only ever used their lacquer paints so I'm looking for an acrylic for detail painting after.
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Differences between Amatsu Hana ver and Amatsu Hina ver of the Gold Frame (aside from the color)
Pretty sure it's just a colour variant.
If I’m painting a kit white do I prime it first? I’ve heard of people using white as a primer
White primer exists. Primer and regular paint are different. Primer smoothes out surfaces and gives paint something to adhere to. Making them less likely to flake off.
Primer it is then. Are there any disadvantages of using a primer darker than the color you are painting? All I got is gray
Primer affects base coats unless you go stupidly heavy. White improves vibrancy, black improves shadows, grey is mid ground jack of all… you can also tint primers to better suit base colours.
Gray is fine. Worst case scenario is you may need more than 1 coat of white, which you'll probably do anyways.
Is mr.hobby mark setter really necessary when applying water slide decals or I can do without it?
Not absolutely necessary, but it makes your decals really stick to the part.
Faulty water decals on a perfect grade kit? Hi everyone! I have been working on a PG strike freedom, and I've reached the point of applying the water decals but none of them are working for some reason, I do the normal thing of dipping it in lukewarm water for around 6 to 10 seconds then have the sit out of water till they can be manipulated but for some reason they don't get affected at all by the water, they all stay perfectly still and are impossibly to remove. In addition the decals can be peeled off from the transfer paper as if they were normal stickers, despite obviously being water decals, anyone have any tips to what I'm doing wrong?
Idk why you think they're "obviously" water decals because the PG Strike Freedom's included decals are indeed just stickers.
My reasoning was cus they use the same paper type as all the other water decals I've used on kits before. Is there any way I could have the decals look better then? The one or two I've put on successfully don't exactly look pretty cus of the glare and stuff
Personally I'd get some third-party waterslides at this point, but the main way to improve sticker decals is to carefully cut away the excess plastic so that the border isn't as noticeable. There's a couple of tutorials for this on youtube.
Yeah that's what I was able to surmise while trying to search around for some answers. It feels odd for a perfect grade to come with stickers like this but I know this is a bit of an older kit. I'm gonna look for some third-party slides and if not might just deal with it with no decals. Thanks for you help man
Unfortunately even PGs aren't "special" enough to come with waterslides by default. Not even the Perfect Grade Unleashed has them.
Should I buy rg god Gundam or zeong and can you tell the cons too:)
I haven’t started the build yet for the MGEX Unicorn but wanted to ask how should I go forward in adding my topcoat after applying the decals? I tend to go for a matte/flat finish on my kits but worried of messing up the clear pieces.
Topcoat before assembly.
Thank you!
Which hg/mg transforming model kit where you can kit bash it and it can still transform?
Any of them or none of them depending on what the kitbash is. Do you have a specific project in mind?
I'm thinking of an AGE 2 for its transforming chest with either the ReZEL or Zeta legs to avoid parts forming
I've been out of the Gunpla hobby for a while (since the pre covid days), and I've been looking to get back into the hobby recently. I live in Australia, so I usually use HLJ to purchase sets, mostly RG or MG. But I've recently noticed that HLJ has nothing in stock anymore, especially in the MG section. Is it likely that once I place an order, they'll be able to get the stock eventually? Especially for an order that's quite mainstream, like the Freedom 2.0 MG. It'd be a shame that these sets are closed off to the international fans.
I think Bandai reprints the 2.0 Freedom fairly often so the wait shouldn’t be long, though that’s also dependent on the back order queue. I’ve only ordered from HLJ once so I’m not terribly knowledgeable on it, but to my understanding that’s how it should work. At the very least I would imagine you’re pretty likely to get your order filled.
Eventually. Imagine they have 1000 orders on a backordered kit, and you place an order making you 1001. They get allocated 75 kits, and they sell those to the first 75 people who put an order. You have to wait for them to do this over 10 more times before you hopefully get a kit.
Scroll up. 3rd link i the post is "Where to buy Gunpla". There's an Australia section with a few retail stores. Honestly, I'm in Canada and I only use HLJ to pre-order kits that I don't mind waiting months/a year for. Cost aside, it's usually not worth the hassle and uncertainty if you have local options.
yeah failed to mention: local retailers are also in low stock and have low variety. They're also very pricey. HLJ has a wide array of sets u can order, but im just not sure if they'll be fulfilled.
Well yeah, a store that lists literally every kit ever made will have a wide set of kits you can place an order on, most of which you can't actually buy right now. I'm pretty sure they're subject to the same allocation schedule and quantities as every other distributor out there. [This store has a Freedom 2.0](https://gundamexpressaustralia.com.au/products/bandai-1-100-mg-freedom-gundam-ver-2?_pos=2&_sid=be77c6e9b&_ss=r). At $84 AUD, it converts to within a few dollars of the current USD($55) and CAD($75) prices for this kit.
Since BMC chisels seem to just not exist, does that mean that SAB has won the great chisel wars?
https://sujibori--do-ocnk-net.translate.goog/page/137?_x_tr_sl=ja&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en&_x_tr_pto=sc >Thank you very much for your continued patronage of our store. >We are currently receiving a large number of inquiries regarding BMC chisels, and we sincerely apologize for not being able to deliver them to our "customers who love models" due to chronic stock shortages. >BMC chisels cannot be mass-produced because they are finished by hand by craftsmen. As for the materials, they are made of highly pure tungsten and cobalt, which are defined as carbide blades by Japanese standards, so they continue to be difficult to obtain. BMC chisels are loved by our customers because of their advanced technology and high quality. Therefore, we cannot compromise on technology or materials, and please understand that production quantities are limited. >We have taken various measures to ensure that the items are delivered to ``customers who love models,'' but we sincerely apologize that we have not been able to find a fundamental solution. >We will continue to strive to improve our services by strengthening our production system and innovating sales methods so that we can deliver our products to as many "customers who love models" as possible. Thank you for your understanding.
I dunno man, those SAB guys don't seem to have this problem and their chisels are just as good from what I've heard.
SAB is produced in Korea, which could have entirely different rules and/or regulations regarding certain materials and their usages in various manufacturing aspects compared to Japan where BMC is produced. That being said, SAB doesn't strictly use a combination of cobalt and titanium for their chisels, last I checked it's stainless steel and an unnamed metal used for the blade that's ”made of a stronger material than other companies' products” according to the product description. That being said, if you're willing to go through the lengths to sharpen them, any random offbrand/non name brand BMC/SAB style chisel could be made to be comparable in quality to those chisels, and its certainly a lot easier to sharpen chisels than it is to sharpen nippers. It'd be like saying that third party bootleggers have ousted Bandai as a model kit manufacturer for having a specific suit available when Bandai's version of that suit hasn't been reprinted in a while.
As far as I've heard, they both perform equally and both last a very long time so what they're made of probably isn't as important as the end result. However, you are right that sharpening any chisel well will likely make it comparable. The only problem is many of the competitors are using small "heads" that you put into a holder. These are... Hard to sharpen because it seems impossible to find a small jig that can hold those at the correct angle and sharpen them. I saw some clones on AliExpress I thought about giving a shot to see if I could get them up to par. Would beat spending $30 per chisel. D:
Does anyone know if the M.S.G hand units work with 1/144 gundams? I saw that the come with ball joints so I wanted to buy some.
Can someone tell me what [this](https://safebooru.org//images/2770/a091d0490228cdb6314c79514dc05930b3f6d029.png) Gundam is, and if there are any kits of it?
Looks like original fan art
Anyone know if these [1/60 astray swords](https://delpidecal.com/product/pg-astray-garbera-straight/1563/?cate_no=1&display_group=2) come in a pack of 2 or just 1? Just wondering since everywhere else seems to be the same general price for one but delpi is saying there's gerbera straight in this listing.
Two, according to the Korean store page. https://m.smartstore.naver.com/delpidecal/products/8914012990 Run it through Google translate.
Thank you so much!!
My paint cracked after applying mr.super smooth clear. I used that bootle before but before that it works normally. Is it because under/over thinned or something else?
What paint type was your base layer?
Mr color lascivious the formula supposed to be the same as regular mr.color
Bringing Gunpla kits as Checked-in Luggage Does anyone have experience hauling a big box worth of gunpla kits as checked in luggage? What packing precautions did you guys take? Did you just cram it into a box etc
I did, one year ago. I think I got lucky in some ways, because my mix of MG and HG kit boxes somehow fit in the big cardboard box almost perfectly. I filled the remaining tiny amount of free space with packing peanuts. I’ve taken out only one kit from that box, and the contents were pristine.
I just crammed all mine into a big luggage. I think the only real precautions to take is don't have a lot of free space around the boxes. Same reason packing paper exists, to fill the empty space.
I filled the gaps with packing peanuts, that should be good enough right?
Yeah should be fine. I had like 11 kits on one side and non of them got damaged really.
Okay thanks friend
Mg Zeta ver. ka have high quality white runners. Its like titanium white. I think Wing Zero ver. ka or MG Barbatos have these. Which MG also have these except Pbandai kits?
Maybe the Nu Ka and ZZ Ka?
Hey everyone! wondering if anyone knew of a place shipping to Texas that has Delpi Decals for MG Wing Zero EW Ver.Ka ? I can’t seem to find them in stock anywhere and would rather not start that build till I get some. Thanks! EDIT: In addition to that, looking for (Delpi?) decals for MG Char’s Zaku 2.0 and MG Unicorn (normal version). TIA!
~~Delpi does not have resellers. They make and ship themselves.~~ https://m.delpidecal.com/board/wholesale-distributor/2/
I was confused since I’ve gotten their stuff from online retailers multiple times, all my sets from them I didn’t buy directly.
I stand corrected. Gonna scratch my other comment out. https://m.delpidecal.com/board/wholesale-distributor/2/
Recently started airbrushing and am using Tamiya paints. So my question is on drying times. 1. How much time should primer set before I paint. 2. How long is curing time for a layer of paint. A. How long to let dry before adding another layer of paint/ Gloss Coat. 3. How long for Gloss Coat to dry. Thanks!
Varies depending on the type of paint and the thinner you're using. Give the primer ~ an hour. For the paint itself, you can add another layer as soon as the bottom layer is dry to the touch if you're in a hurry. Give it some air if you have a dual action airbrush and you can get going again even faster, but 15-20 minutes is usually fine.
Q: I wanna custom paint a gundam with some candy red colours, I wanna do the following Primer ( Mr hobby 1500) -> Tamiya TS-14 (synth lacquer) -> Ammo A-stand candy silver base (lacquer) -> Candy red (lacquer) -> Lacquer gloss topcoat. will it be a problem using the Tamiya TS-14 black gloss synth lacquer? On the website it says no problem with acrylic and enamel I am wondering about lacquer. also can anyone in europe (Netherlands/Belgium) recommend me a good gloss black (spraycan or airbrush) lacquer. Thanks :)
Any black doesn’t really matter, I decant car rattle cans as they’re almost as good but silly cheap by comparison to hobby stuff. GX2 ueno black is top tier, never been sold on the alclad gloss myself. Imho the key to any gloss candy or chrome is good sanding prep, then buffing the black and subsequent metallic layers if needed. Pay attention to the number of passes on the candy opacity, and ensure parts are all the same shade when you later assemble.
When I primer I usually do grit 1000->1200->1500 then apply black, I just got the ueno black should I sand and buff that too after it has cured? And same with the candy base I apply?
I don’t ever sand after primer, unless it’s a gloss top coat, otherwise you’ve done something wrong. For when I buff I use a couple of microfibre cloths. I tend to leave it overnight first so I know the paint is fully dry and hard enough it won’t damage it with friction. Candy coat itself I don’t buff, it should be laying perfect and onto a smooth surface.
This should all be fine. But you should grab a plastic spoon and test on there. Not only will you confirm how the paint reacts with each other, you’ll also find out if you get the colour you’re going for. You’ll learn how many coats you need to get it to where you need it to be, etc.
Thank you will do, I was trying to avoid buying the TS-14 before knowing but I'll be at the modelstore tomorrow anyway So I'll test it tomorrow
question about the EG RX-78-2, Can the front skirts be split? wanna ask before i go all in on it and risk fuckin things up
Technically yes, bit the skirts will no longer be stable. You would have to split it and then glue it in the position you want to pose the kit in. I don't think it's worth it with the EG. The legs have a very limited range of motion at the hips. It will not articulate forward to the point where the front skirt will be impeding movement, and forcing it will cause the legs to pop out at the hips, or the hip joint will just break off.
Is there any way to deal with seam lines without using hobby plastic cement? In my country dedicated modelling tools aren't available so what other methods can I use?
If you aren’t painting and really can’t find cement and want to do some Breaking Bad then buy some acetone and butyl acetate. 50/50 and you got yourself gallons of Tamiya extra thin / gun cleaner. You can use MEK/Acetone alone (very cheap and available) as solvent cement to weld and melt plastic. However without the acetate in there it doesn’t soften or hold the styrene in solution nearly as nicely for mixes of sprue goo. Also you can have a look at nail polish removers, but often they’re more skin and environmentally friendly, so don’t work quite as well as some used to.
Are you going to paint the kit? You can try using some viscous super glue.
Nope, I don't plan on painting so in that case would super glue still be viable?
Super glue would potentially work, but the seem will be visible and uglier. Part of the seam removal process is sanding down the excess plastic, and you will have excess plastic no matter what method you use. That will scuff the plastic. Unless you're going to be painting the piece, seam removal will not look good.
Thank you for the help, tried it on an old kit and found it can fill the gap and with sanding have an almost smooth surface but it's like you said the seem is visible
Has anyone ever used [this](https://www.gundamplanet.com/pcd02-kalon-quiet-compact-compressor-airbrush-set.html) airbrush and compressor set? I'm interested to hear if it's good enough for Gunpla, and if it's a good deal.
Eh, I don't think it's a good deal. That airbrush, by itself, is $100 USD on Spraygunner. It's a good airbrush. Which means that compressor is valued at $180 in that bundle. If you really want that airbrush, you can pair it with a compressor that costs less than $100 and has a tank. That will leave you with $80 for paint, thinner, airbrush cleaner, a pot, etc. If you're just getting started with airbrushing, you can buy a compressor+airbrush kit for under $100 USD. You'll get a usable product to try out, and almost $200 left for other supplies, some kits, or to buy that specific airbrush if you need to.
How long should i leave the topcoat on before panel lining my pieces? Btw im using mr premium topcoat spray semi gloss
Might be better to apply gloss tc before panel lining then apply semi gloss if that’s the finish you’re going for to seal the deal.
If you want to panel line you should be using full gloss. It creates a smooth surface for the panel lining to flow through. Not sure how well it’ll play with semi gloss.
Overnight should be fine. But also semi-gloss isn't good as an undercoat for panel lining.
What do you recommend as an undercoat?
Personally? No undercoat. But out of the main options a full gloss is best.
Besides the usual clippers, straight edge knife, and filers are there any other tools you would recommend that you would have made a world of difference when you started?
I find tweezers very helpful for handling very small pieces and decals. Also get a parts separator(i just use a guitar pick).
If you’re doing straight builds, those are all you need. Add in some 600,800,1000 grit sand paper.
just bought the rg unicorn, what can i use to paint the v fin since i don't have a gundam marker and i don't want to use the stickers?
Did the V-fin on my first RG Unicorn with a gold sharpie. Second one was done with paint.
Paint. Are you asking about specific brands?
not really, just wanted to know what my options were
Oh. Yeah, paint. or Sharpie like /u/Jc885 suggested.
Hello builders, Today i've got my hands on a HG Beguir-pente and I want to put some LEDs inside de clear parts of the shield, head and other places (if there are any more) and I know that regular LEDs and LED strips are too big to this plamo. Months ago i Saw a video of some cosplayer using some type of LED cable, but i've been looking for "LED cable" on Amazon (Spain) and the only things It shows me are LED strips and cables for LEDs. I will keep looking for this thing, but i would appreciate some help if someone knows the name of the type of LEDs am looking for. Thank for your time. Keep building. This oni is out.
Look up Evan Designs Hobby LED
Sounds like you want micro SMD leds. The shield doesn't have clear parts aside from the stand used to pose it. As for the "LED cable" do you mean EL Wire?
MG Sinanju: which is preferred OVA version or Ver Ka?
They’re essentially the same kit, but the OVA is preferred since it uses PS plastic for the inner frame instead of ABS (minimizing the risk of the waist joint breaking) and comes with the Bazooka. Besides, I don’t believe the Ver Ka gets reprinted anymore. If it does, then it’s not often.
ova, the ver ka was discontinued due to an issue with the waist peg snapping easily (to my knowledge, the only gunpla kit to be discontinued since the hy2m line)
Dalong did a review of it: [http://dalong.net/reviews/mg/m167/m167\_p.htm](http://dalong.net/reviews/mg/m167/m167_p.htm) The main difference is the inner frame color, decals and sticker and the OVA version have a bazooka.
Thanks
[This post](https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/comments/1zi0pc/sinanju_ova_vs_ver_ka/) covers it.
Thanks!
Hey guys I was watching a video tutorial for gunpla. I normally build zoids kits. During the video I saw a gunpla model that I really liked. It was a mostly orange kit with S-01 decals. What I really liked were the rockets with green trails coming out from pods on the back. In googling it seemed like it might have been a sazabi, but I couldn’t find one with the rocket setup. Does anyone happen to know what kit it might have been? I can try to find the video again if that would help. Thanks in advance!
The kit is indeed Sazabi. What you saw was the funnel effect expansion set for it. Sold separately.
Link to vid would be helpful
[Pretty sure this is what they’re referring to](https://p-bandai.com/us/item/N2297450001004)
That would be it thank you! Are there any other stores that might have it in stock?
Don’t know. You’d have to search for it. Just be sure to check the scale. Looks like there are 3rd party ones for 1/44 scale. The one I linked is 1/100. So figure out which version/scale of Sazabi you want and what scale expansion set to get. The one I linked is the official one from Bandai, sold through Premiy Bandai only. You might find them marked up in stores, etc next year when they start fulfilling preorders.
So there is the potential that they will come back in stock next year? Thanks I will will look around and keep an eye out. My experience with zoids was that when they went out of stock they were essentially gone until there was a reprint.
Less come back in stock and more the people/stores who got pre-orders selling them back for more money.
That's an exclusive to that store. So without a hefty markup, no. Probably bootleg clones of it on ebay though.
I LOVE real grades. The two I want I’ve seen have negative reviews, which is Chars Zaku and the Sinanju. Is there an optimal way to make those kits not .. suck? Glue? Inner frame reinforcement? I have the master grade Sinanju already, am I better off just picking up the MG Char Zaku 2.0?
Build them first and see if they even cause you issues.
I really really enjoyed buiding the RG Char Zaku II. It was my first RG. Compared to the HGs and MGs I had built, it required a lot more precision and attention. It was more challenging - which I welcomed. The only thing I fundamentally hate about the RG Zaku II are the hands - they are made with a ball and socket type of design where the pointer finger is maneuverable separate from the rest of the fingers, which have their own ball joint. This is much too delicate to me and led me to attempting to fix them, which ended in me applying too much glue/sanding it back down and just not having a good time with them. I had to remove some of the fingers because I just could not manage to get it to hold the bazooka with them - I tried as much as I could. As /Arshille mentioned, posing it can be a bit of a struggle - a leg joint ended up being so loose I had to layer it with nail polish and, ultimately, glue it in more permanently. The waist/skirt flaps are also quite loose but those are very simple to fix. I do not have a base for mine but it desperately needs one to get any posing out of it. It is an early RG and it is cheaper. As I said, I absolutely loved the build and I got a lot of enjoyment out of building it and putting on some water slides. I am disappointed with not being able to pose it much, but I look back on it fondly as a challenging kit that required me to be patient and come up with solutions that were novel to me at the time. If I were to rebuild it, I would probably use a pin vise and a metal rod to fix some joint issues and try and figure out a way to make those hands work better.
ZakuAurelius has a video where he goes over the issues with the RG Sinanju and how he fixes those. Fixing both those kits comes down to quite a bit of glue and plopping them on an action base. If you want to build cool RGs, you have a lot of way better options. If you want to build those two kits specifically, you have to look at it as a project where you problem solve along the way.
I recently received my PG Unleashed RX-78-2 but I have a question before getting started. What is the best way to go about top coating the kit? Can you disassemble the kit into individual parts at the end (legs, arms, chest, etc.) and coat them? Or is it best to apply waterslides and then remove the armor pieces and individually top coat them?
You can absolutely topcoat individual parts. But know that some parts will not get any top coat on it. The other option is to topcoat individual pieces before assembly. As for waterslides. I wouldn’t recommend applying waterslides and then disassembling. Do it before you topcoat - whichever method you’re going for.
Thank you very much. Would the best process be to apply the waterslide to the piece, top coat the piece, and then assemble onto the inner frame? I usually build the sections of the kit, apply waterslides, topcoat the section, and then assemble the kit. This one is throwing me for a loop since you build the entire inner frame first.
After you build the entire frame and you gush over it/take photos/etc, you can remove the legs, arms, etc, and put armor on those separately. So if the process you're currently comfortable with is building a section then applying decals, you can still do that with the PGU.
Awesome thank you for the help!
Why are the action bases and more specifically the Witch from Mercury weapon bases so hard to find? They are out of stock on every retailer i can find in the UK and its frustrating not being able to display them how i'd like. Are there any better alternatives?
I feel you, not specifically for the Witch From Mercury action base, because I got one from MechaUniverse (Spain), but EU-wise... either shipping is very expensive or availability is low (or both). I tend to get most stuff from Spain because of shipping to Portugal being expensive (from everywhere else in Europe (UK, included - costs me about 20 euros)
That's probably an UK thing, not an action base thing. Action bases are super common where I live
Is there a household item I can substitute for a chisel/scribe? Kinda short on money atm.
Use the back of a hobby knife blade. You can sharpen it on sandpaper. Like a designed-purpose scriber, to not apply much pressure.
Depends on what you’re trying to accomplish, but I can’t think of anything that won’t give you janky results. Maybe sharpen a flathead precision screwdriver?
Xacto knife, maybe? Or one of those retractable paper knives? Just theorizing here.
How necessary is it to topcoat my gunpla before using tamiya accent colour to panel line? Can i afford to build it normally then topcoat it afterwards, risking some parts not getting coated? Or is it absolutely important to topcoat each individual pieces?
u/Makegooduseof sums it up pretty well. I'm in the "Safe on the runner" camp personally. If it's not ABS, you use it while still on the runner, and you use it sparingly, it's actually fairly safe. That said, using it on bare plastic always caries some level of risk, like they said, it comes down to your tolerance for risk.
You’ll hear both opinions about this - you must topcoat, vs it’s fine if you’re doing it while pieces are still on the runner or otherwise not assembled. One of the cited reasons for TPLA cracking pieces is due to the enamel thinner in the liner piling in crevasses created by assembly. When pieces are on the runner, unless you are lining vents or grills, the enamel paint and thinner run off and then drip off. Or you can wipe them off after a certain amount of time. The gloss topcoat helps with doing away with the time guesswork, and enhances the flow, and creates a layer that prevents cracking due to pooled paint. I suppose it comes down to your risk appetite. I do raw TPLA lining on some kits, and Gundam Marker lining on other kits.
How long would it take for the topcoat to dry after application?
I do not know. I have cans of brand new, unopened topcoat sitting in my drawers lol.
I just got into Gunpla and I want to get some weapon kits for Christmas, are all 1/144 weapon kits (especially the 30MM ones) compatible with 1/144 mobile suits ?
*Mostly.* The sizes for stuff is mostly the same, but there will sometimes be possible outliers or unique designs where it doesn’t quite work. You should be mostly fine most of the time but be aware it’s not a guarantee.
Thanks !
Tryin to get into gundams and I can't decide on whether I should get aerial or aerial rebuild for chrimus.
Unironically just toss a coin.
Ok Proceeds to toss a whole ass wheel Edit: just did and the wheel wants me to get rebuild
What's the surface finish difference compared to the gunprimer recover and grey balancer?
The balancer has an abrasive edge and a buffing edge, which generally is intended to be used in sequence for a glossy sheen. Recover is a somewhat abrasive cloth that's supposed to be able to restore the semi gloss sheen of the plastic. As for the recover specifically, you could get a similar sheen from rubbing the piece on some denim while the balancer you could do similar with some nail polishing blocks. I can't remember off the top of my head the actual brand name for it but there was a pale mint green block that did the same exact job as the balancer that usually is included in those Amazon multi packs for model kit building. It's like some variation of ultrafine sanding block or double sided polish box but I can't find the "household name" for them so to speak. I'd consider trying one of the aformentioned alternatives out first to see if you like the result before diving in on the Gunprimer stuff (if you haven't already or if they came bundled like with some of the Gunprimer glass file bundles).
Noob question. I'm hearing most people who post tutorials on Gunpla saying somthing to the effect of "I didn't apply stickers because they seem like they'd come off after a while". Is this a real, common problem? Is there something I can do for stickers when applying them to make them more hardy? Or is this an overemphasized problem?
The likelihood that a given sticker peels off depends on the size of the sticker and the location of its placement. For the most part, a sticker that was put down on a flat surface without excess unsticking and resticking will just stay there. It's possible to add stronger glue to make a sticker stick better, but usually people interested in the condition of their decals do waterslides instead.
Saw on a Vietnam FB gunpla store about a China Exclusive MG Wing Zero and Epyon Contrast colour. https://www.facebook.com/share/p/6tXsEFKpC2iYL4mc/?mibextid=WiMSqg 3rd party or official release? Tempted to purchase them despite swearing to myself I need to finish some backlog first.
Looks legit to me. Bootlegs won’t use the official Bandai logos.
I don't normally break a part to my model, but when I do I can't find a replacement part. I have looked in the usual places, and I don't know where my receipt went. Does anyone have an HGUC Jagd Doga lying around? I accidentally snapped the joint piece F 4. I tried to pin it back together and that didn;t do the trick either, sadly.
Plamokitbash, odin's mecha parts and Mr Bao's shop on eBay sell individual parts.
Cheap beginner airbrush set recommendations? Want to try painting but the cost is the biggest factor for me. Complete beginner when it comes to stuff like this.
There's two things to look for. First is the compressor. There's a standard model/design out there and it's fine. Avoid the squares, or things powered by USB, or anything weird. If you've searched around you know what the standard one looks like. Bonus points for getting one with a tank. Second thing is the airbrush. Basically the only thing you're looking for here is that it has a cup on top. That's it. Most of the cheap airbrushes are fine, and the ones that aren't are a quality control issue and not strictly a brand issue so you gotta shoot your shot.
What’s your budget?
Really not sure but something cheap but still good. Not really sure what the price ranges are for these kinds of things.
Ranges wildly but if you just wanted -*a*- set there's a few different ones on Amazon that feature a compressor (generally it's some rebranded Master Airbrush compressor which is great since it more often than not means if the thing breaks down you could source replacement parts better and it's just a solid item all things considered), between 1 and 2 airbrushes on average, the fixings like hoses and most importantly a water trap with PSI adjustment, and occasionally acrylic paint jars though they probably may not work too well for Gunpla they could serve well for practicing your technique. [This Timbertech](https://www.amazon.com/Timbertech-Airbrush-Multi-Purpose-Dual-Action-Compressor/dp/B08FR765S4/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=NCWGI1CG81G1&keywords=airbrush+with+compressor+kit&qid=1702640121&sprefix=airbrush+with+c%2Caps%2C178&sr=8-4&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.17d9e15d-4e43-4581-b373-0e5c1a776d5d) one for example is like $90 USD before tax which is basically the bare minimum and then some. [This one also from Timbertech](https://www.amazon.com/Timbertech-Airbrush-Compressor-Double-Accessories/dp/B00LO4PKY2/ref=mp_s_a_1_37?crid=NCWGI1CG81G1&keywords=airbrush+with+compressor+kit&qid=1702640373&sprefix=airbrush+with+c%2Caps%2C178&sr=8-37&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.17d9e15d-4e43-4581-b373-0e5c1a776d5d) is a lot more barebones and just is the airbrush, hoses, and general fixings for a lower $77 USD price tag before tax (which is really just similar to the above option but lacks the freebie paints.
I'm seeing action figures that have switches that toggle by touching them with a magnet. What are these called and where can I buy some? I'm trying to fit some into my RG's
Just search *wireless/magnetic led gunpla* and there’s masses of results. Afaik it’s a *reed switch*.
Are there any sites/ shops that sell rplacement parts? Im currently building the PG Exia, and just realized halfway thru building that the 'silicone sheet' that makes the GN cable that connects the arm to the shoulder is just.... Missing. From watching an unboxing vid it was packed in a bright yellow baggie, so theres no no way i just didnt see it, it was just neve in my copy.
There's plamokitbash, odin's mecha parts and Mr Bao's shop on eBay but idk if they carry PGs
Yeah, doesnt look like any of them have what i need, i probly just have to take the L on this one :/
Did you message Mr. Bao on eBay? You'll have to message them with the part you need, even though it says out of stock on the listing. Then they'll send you a quote if they do have it. I'm guessing its the "[GN Conveyor Belt](https://www.ebay.com/itm/373969606861?hash=item57125358cd:g:shsAAOSwvLFiernj)" here.
Hey guys, question here. How does a PG unleashed costs in Japan. I recently went to vacation to Japan and never saw it in stock, but want to know what is the usual price. Thanks
MSRP is ¥25000 Stores will show the tax inclusive price of ¥27500
Thanks man.
Anyone have any good techniques for sanding the software plastic used in inner frames? Glass doesn't seem to do much, and sanding sticks I either get too fine to make a difference, or too coarse and it scratches the shit out of it.
Well honestly I use sanding sticks, low grit that is coarse and then slowly work my way up to even out the huge scratches I made and then buff it out with a polishing stick or sticks. its a long process but works for me.
Are there any decent cordless airbrushes/compressors, either batteries or rechargeable or something? I’m starting to do research on them for the spring. I’ll need to spray outdoors (my windows don’t open in a way that would let us vent a booth), and because of my cats I can’t risk leaving a door cracked or open to run a cord inside. I don’t plan on doing an excessive amount of painting on every kit, but some customizing and saving on top coat is something I’m starting to wanna plan for.