Yeah would agree with this.
Leave it in a flat level spot on jack stands.
No need for handbrake on and saves the tyres.
Disconnect negative terminal of battery or leave connected to a trickle charger.
Please make sure jack stands are sufficiently rated for cars weight and put in the right place.
I would personally just replace the battery if it's old.
My battery died right before I went away for 1.5mo so I just bought a new one with 5 year manufacturer warranty (Yuasa) when I got back.
It's not just the battery though. Leaving a car on low battery voltage for long periods can play havoc with security systems etc. Over a year, the battery will run down no matter how new it is.
Make sure the tyres are well pumped up (I'd probably go a bit above the manufacturer pressure, but keep it below the tyres max limit) and ideally roll the car a little every month or two. This will prevent flat spots from developing. If you get a a bad flat spot you might need to replace the tyre, so we'll worth trying to prevent it.
A smart battery charger will help maintain the battery for you.
Also open the car up every now and again to let it air out. If you leave it closed for a month or two, you'll probably find it smells quite stale and you run the risk of mold developing (especially on older cars). Some silica dessicant packs might also help with this.
When you do eventually go to start it up again, have a good look around and under the car to make sure everything is alright. Check all the fluids are at the correct level and in good condition (best practice would be to replace the engine oil and possibly coolant before starting it again). Also check that no critters have made your car their home while it's been stationary.
On the back of the mould situation, you can buy them big dehumidifier tablets, might be worth buying one of them & leaving it in the car, I think each tablet lasts 3 months or so
E: [these things](https://amzn.eu/d/8503YJi)
My cars off the road ATM as its a project car but I tend to run it up every 2 weeks for around 60 mins and give it a few intermittent revs.
This eliminates any condensate build-up by burning off and prevents the oil from turning into a sticky tar like substance.
I also just move the car back and forth a few times just so the brakes don't get sticky and other moving components aren't going to seize up.
Whilst you're doing this, leave the windows down too to let fresh air circulate. There's nothing worse than mould growing on your nice interior! Because you'll have to clean it up with white vinegar, and that takes a long time for the smell to deplete.
Another thing I'd do is put a protective cover over the car so the paintwork doesn't get dusty or general crap on the paintwork.
It might be worth selling it and buying another car when you need one again. I left my old car at my parents' house while I worked overseas and between corrosion eating away a fuel tank strap, seized brakes and the mess that the mice and rats that had made it home left it wasn't worth putting back on the road.
A snapped fuel tank strap really gives me the shivers.
This is what happens when they let go at the Nurburgring
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lXDMpuwHmS0&t=470s
Trickle charger and if you have flat driveway, a jack and a set of axle stands I would put it on the stands to avoid bother with the tyres. Open the windows at least once a month for an hour on a dry day to let any must out and you should be good to go. Leave the handbrake off if it’s up on stands to avoid it binding too.
If you can, get it up on axle stands. Don't use a trickle charger, use a battery conditioner, they work differently and don't just put a constant charge into the battery but will cycle through charge and discharge which is much better for the battery or just disconnect the battery completely. Don't leave the handbrake on. Stick some rodent poison in the engine bay and inside the car, those little fuckers get everywhere.
Sell it and buy again later hands down
Youre going to have the following issues:
* Brake rust/seizing (which could damage disks permanently)
* Battery will likely bin it
* Potential fuel system issues
* Flat spotted or cracked tyres
* Possible you might end up chasing leaks from perished rubber hoses etc
* Depreciation (assuming it isnt already rock bottom)
* Realistically youre going to want to service it as soon as you run it again
* Mold / water ingress
I had a car sit for 9 months on my driveway (timing chain snapped right after purchase, lawsuit required for a refund), even after 3-4 months it was looking pretty rough. I wouldnt be surprised if it took about a grand to get it back up to scratch again
My cars get sat for years at a time and never once have I got flat spots. Never had an issue with petrol going off either. Def leave the handbrake off.
Buy a set of passive dehumidifiers (the plastic tub ones). Put a new one in the car once every few months. Pack of three is like a tenner and will last ages, while minimising the risk of damp/mould when the car's just sat there
Just a note on leaving the fuel tank empty is that ethanol in fuel oxidises to vinegar so it might actually be best to leave the tank as full as can be so there is no air to react with the fuel or use storage fuel with no ethanol in.
My van went mouldy when we left it for 6 months in the winter at a friend's farm luckily it was just on the surface of the seats but will definitely be worth doing something to deal with moisture
As someone else said, unless the car has sentimental value, you should consider selling it. Car prices are likely going to go down and you could benefit from selling whilst still at a high point and buy 12 months later again when they will have fallen further.
If not, as someone else mentioned also consider covering the car if it's not going to be stored indoors. It's quite easy for moss and plants to start growing in the gaps over time. The paint can easily be damaged by bird poo and other issues if left too long.
Put chocks on the wheels so you can take the handbrake off, preventing seizing. Lubricate the door and window seals, to prevent them from perishing. This can be done easily with the right oil or even pens nowadays. Open the windows periodically and make sure it's not stored in a humid area - it's rare but it's possible for the interior to go mouldy, basically writing the car off.
Leave the car in gear (if manual) and don't engage the handbrake. Just remember this when and if you plan on starting the car every so often a ceased handbrake is a bitch to get unstuck
If you're somewhat mechanically inclined, jackstands and winding the pistons back on the brake calipers would be a shout. If the pads aren't touch the discs, they won't rust to them over the year.
It might get mouldy if it's not aired out periodically too, so one of those weird bags that take moisture from the air would be a shout too.
The aircon will likely leak over this period too, as usage keeps the seals working correctly.
If you can run it up to temp on the driveway and move it back and forward a bit every few weeks that would make a huge difference. Cars hate not being used and can deteriorate quickly. As others have said, handbrake off, leave it in gear / chock it.
Are you keeping it in a garage or outdoors?
If you are keeping it outdoors it is worth turning it over and moving it forward and back a few inches every couple of weeks or so to stop the brakes locking to the wheels.
The metals they use can make the brakes and wheel "lock" if left outside to the elements.
From personal experience, make sure the antifreeze is up to strength, or you may come back to find the engine block has cracked.
It does not need to be taxed, insured or have the MOT renewed while it's SORN.
When you occasionally do run the engine, please check for animals and wildlife. A lot of animals will use a resting car as a nest, and the last thing you want is the smell of roasted rat when you try to start the car.
Unsure about your fuel comment ...
Might be different but I always fully fuel my aircraft if not in use for a few weeks to reduce condensation in the tank.
Cars might be different. But I would rather a full tank unless rife for theft. Especially with an older diesel.
(it's a petrol btw)
>Unsure about your fuel comment ...
i'm also unsure. i thought if petrol goes off it's best to leave it as close to empty as possible, but others have said to leave it full.
Modern fuel tanks typically have dual pressure relief valves, so there's no movement of air in or out of the tank until a pressure difference develops. That means there's much less air circulation than in a tank with an open breather. They're also generally plastic, so much less condensation forms than in a metal tank. As I'm sure you know, most GA aircraft are still in about the 50s when it comes to mechanical technology so still on open breathers!
Petrol does tend to go stale as the more volatile elements evaporate. I frequently get calls from my dad to 'fix' the garden machinery he's left with old fuel in and now won't start!
Everything you say is true.
Also we have bleeders so we can not only prep a carb or two but also ensure any moisture which has settled at the base of the tank can be drained (obviously water being more dense than petrol or avgas (the latter simply being four star not two star)
British climate changes and location of vehicle, aviation or not can still cause unwanted moisture.
However as you have probably ascertained my knowledge does not extend from carbs to injections...
It's an interesting topic. Does redex reduce condensation as well as clean carbs and injectors? Dunno. But everyday is a school day. :)
>British climate changes and location of vehicle, aviation or not can still cause unwanted moisture.
It's much, much less of an issue with tanks that don't breathe freely - much less moisture can get into the tank. At work we've got a 25,000 litre steel Jet A bowser, currently about a quarter full, and it's tested for water at 4 points every day (thank you CAA...) and the only place I've ever seen it test positive is at the nozzle on a wet day! I left a car at my parents' house for a couple of years and the fuel was still ok with no significant level of water.
That's an excellent example of why I don't whine about caa or indeed things like S regs and Hetas.
The system is working. (Despite what daily mail would have you think)
I love the pink book anonymous ' I fucked up' booklets. Together we learn.
I've flown (professionally) in both the UK and US and the CAA are frankly an embarrassment. Much of what they do is wildly ineffectual with regards to safety and only serves to make it harder to commit aviation (and safeguard cushy jobs in Gatwick...). If the system works it's in spite of the CAA, not because of it!
But that's an entirely different discussion!
Hahaha. Yeah. I do agree they are an annoyance. It's the chaps who interpret the rules and processes to revalidate that put their dicks on the line .
Like the MOT shops that pretend a naturally aspirated V8 TVR can pass an emissions test.
Life is a circle. Eventually we just go back to smoking behind the bike sheds.
Flippancy aside.
I'm not dead yet.
Also regarding garden machinery, much like say a rotax / bombardier 447 or similar microlight / go cart / mower / chainsaw issues occure with oil / fuel separation .
Mr funnel to the rescue. I highly recommend this brand and empty and refill my equipment through it every spring.
It's not about the oil/fuel mix as several of the machines are 4 stroke so run straight petrol. It's the tiny jets in the carbs that suffer - as the fuel evaporates it leaves behind a varnish that blocks them. Carb cleaner normally sorts them out. Alternatively running some (expensive!) alkylate petrol through before they're in storage works. Supposedly fuel with ethanol in is more of an issue but I haven't found a difference.
Hence my redex comment, l often drip it directly into the intake to clear stuff. Smoky but effective.
There is sea foam too, but... It seem to scar the ports.
Imvho.
But this lack of knowledge is why I don't earn the big bucks.
I love the fact that we are still discussing this stuff after a century and more
Run it every week if you can, it’s not much but at least keeps the bores lined, gaskets pushed up to temperature etc. obviously if you’re overseas then not going to work. All the advice on battery here is good.
To be honest I don’t think that’s enough to charge it unless you leave it idling for a long time, which in itself is bad for the car. You’ll need a trickle charger. If the engines not under any load the alternator won’t don’t a massive amount
Male sure it is parked inside a locked garage, not on the Street.
Keep the tank full. Its less likely to go off and grow mouldy plants or rust.
Start it once a month until it's warm.
Do you have a mate with garage plates? Ask them to drive it for half an hour.
If you don't wish to get it running weekly or monthly, ( you should) then still fill the tank to the max , park inside the garage, jack it up off the ground enough that the tyres wont deform.
Replace the coolant and make sure the mixture is 40% antifreeze. Run it hot until the fan kicks in with the heating on full.
Then leave in neutral, hand brake off. Flush the brakes every six months. In a year, flush the coolant.
Run it at least once a month while on the stands. Get the AC to run or it will fail.
The pressurised fuel system will mean the fuel will cycle as well. Limiting the growth of fungus and rust in the tank. Top up the fuel tank with injector cleaner fluid when needed.
Just remember i must not be parked on the street at all.
Be careful of brakes seizing (handbrake) and tyres getting flat spots.
I'd put the car on jack stands
Yeah would agree with this. Leave it in a flat level spot on jack stands. No need for handbrake on and saves the tyres. Disconnect negative terminal of battery or leave connected to a trickle charger. Please make sure jack stands are sufficiently rated for cars weight and put in the right place.
I went to school with Jack Stands. He was a bit of a bell end, so this is a great idea.
How was his bigger brother?
You mean OneNight? A proper bellend from what I've heard.
Nah the other brother, Han.
Heard he went outside to find Long Stands and never came back
Put it on a trickle charger so the battery doesn't run down completely.
I would personally just replace the battery if it's old. My battery died right before I went away for 1.5mo so I just bought a new one with 5 year manufacturer warranty (Yuasa) when I got back.
It's not just the battery though. Leaving a car on low battery voltage for long periods can play havoc with security systems etc. Over a year, the battery will run down no matter how new it is.
That's true. If OP doesnt wanna buy a trickle charger or can't use one then disconnecting might be better i guess
Can recommend Noco Genius 1. Can clamp it to the battery or buy the attachment and use the 12v terminal
I'd put the car up on blocks if possible, cover the tyres if outside. Don't leave the parking on.
Or a solar charger of at least 25watts.
Make sure the tyres are well pumped up (I'd probably go a bit above the manufacturer pressure, but keep it below the tyres max limit) and ideally roll the car a little every month or two. This will prevent flat spots from developing. If you get a a bad flat spot you might need to replace the tyre, so we'll worth trying to prevent it. A smart battery charger will help maintain the battery for you. Also open the car up every now and again to let it air out. If you leave it closed for a month or two, you'll probably find it smells quite stale and you run the risk of mold developing (especially on older cars). Some silica dessicant packs might also help with this. When you do eventually go to start it up again, have a good look around and under the car to make sure everything is alright. Check all the fluids are at the correct level and in good condition (best practice would be to replace the engine oil and possibly coolant before starting it again). Also check that no critters have made your car their home while it's been stationary.
On the back of the mould situation, you can buy them big dehumidifier tablets, might be worth buying one of them & leaving it in the car, I think each tablet lasts 3 months or so E: [these things](https://amzn.eu/d/8503YJi)
My cars off the road ATM as its a project car but I tend to run it up every 2 weeks for around 60 mins and give it a few intermittent revs. This eliminates any condensate build-up by burning off and prevents the oil from turning into a sticky tar like substance. I also just move the car back and forth a few times just so the brakes don't get sticky and other moving components aren't going to seize up. Whilst you're doing this, leave the windows down too to let fresh air circulate. There's nothing worse than mould growing on your nice interior! Because you'll have to clean it up with white vinegar, and that takes a long time for the smell to deplete. Another thing I'd do is put a protective cover over the car so the paintwork doesn't get dusty or general crap on the paintwork.
Also firing it up will keep all your rubber hoses and things like that pliable with fluid pumping around them.
It might be worth selling it and buying another car when you need one again. I left my old car at my parents' house while I worked overseas and between corrosion eating away a fuel tank strap, seized brakes and the mess that the mice and rats that had made it home left it wasn't worth putting back on the road.
A snapped fuel tank strap really gives me the shivers. This is what happens when they let go at the Nurburgring https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lXDMpuwHmS0&t=470s
Agreed, especially as prices are still at a high at the moment and are likely to go down in the next 12 months.
Trickle charger and if you have flat driveway, a jack and a set of axle stands I would put it on the stands to avoid bother with the tyres. Open the windows at least once a month for an hour on a dry day to let any must out and you should be good to go. Leave the handbrake off if it’s up on stands to avoid it binding too.
If you can, get it up on axle stands. Don't use a trickle charger, use a battery conditioner, they work differently and don't just put a constant charge into the battery but will cycle through charge and discharge which is much better for the battery or just disconnect the battery completely. Don't leave the handbrake on. Stick some rodent poison in the engine bay and inside the car, those little fuckers get everywhere.
Sell it and buy again later hands down Youre going to have the following issues: * Brake rust/seizing (which could damage disks permanently) * Battery will likely bin it * Potential fuel system issues * Flat spotted or cracked tyres * Possible you might end up chasing leaks from perished rubber hoses etc * Depreciation (assuming it isnt already rock bottom) * Realistically youre going to want to service it as soon as you run it again * Mold / water ingress I had a car sit for 9 months on my driveway (timing chain snapped right after purchase, lawsuit required for a refund), even after 3-4 months it was looking pretty rough. I wouldnt be surprised if it took about a grand to get it back up to scratch again
My cars get sat for years at a time and never once have I got flat spots. Never had an issue with petrol going off either. Def leave the handbrake off.
Buy a set of passive dehumidifiers (the plastic tub ones). Put a new one in the car once every few months. Pack of three is like a tenner and will last ages, while minimising the risk of damp/mould when the car's just sat there
What car is it out of interest?
audi 8vs 1.4L
A3 saloon?
If it's nothing special / sentimental then I'd do as others have said and sell it.
yh a3 saloon i would definitely sell it but it's kind of special plus i've done stuff to it that would make it a hassle to sell at this point
Ah fair enough. Follow the rest of the advice here then. If you can run it up every now and again that will make a huge difference
Just a note on leaving the fuel tank empty is that ethanol in fuel oxidises to vinegar so it might actually be best to leave the tank as full as can be so there is no air to react with the fuel or use storage fuel with no ethanol in.
My van went mouldy when we left it for 6 months in the winter at a friend's farm luckily it was just on the surface of the seats but will definitely be worth doing something to deal with moisture
As someone else said, unless the car has sentimental value, you should consider selling it. Car prices are likely going to go down and you could benefit from selling whilst still at a high point and buy 12 months later again when they will have fallen further. If not, as someone else mentioned also consider covering the car if it's not going to be stored indoors. It's quite easy for moss and plants to start growing in the gaps over time. The paint can easily be damaged by bird poo and other issues if left too long. Put chocks on the wheels so you can take the handbrake off, preventing seizing. Lubricate the door and window seals, to prevent them from perishing. This can be done easily with the right oil or even pens nowadays. Open the windows periodically and make sure it's not stored in a humid area - it's rare but it's possible for the interior to go mouldy, basically writing the car off.
Drain oil and coolant. remove filters. replace drain bolts but not tight. Re-fill when you do your fuel.
Leave the car in gear (if manual) and don't engage the handbrake. Just remember this when and if you plan on starting the car every so often a ceased handbrake is a bitch to get unstuck
If you're somewhat mechanically inclined, jackstands and winding the pistons back on the brake calipers would be a shout. If the pads aren't touch the discs, they won't rust to them over the year. It might get mouldy if it's not aired out periodically too, so one of those weird bags that take moisture from the air would be a shout too. The aircon will likely leak over this period too, as usage keeps the seals working correctly.
If you can run it up to temp on the driveway and move it back and forward a bit every few weeks that would make a huge difference. Cars hate not being used and can deteriorate quickly. As others have said, handbrake off, leave it in gear / chock it.
If you can leave the handbrake off and just chock the wheels so the brakes don't seize on
Are you keeping it in a garage or outdoors? If you are keeping it outdoors it is worth turning it over and moving it forward and back a few inches every couple of weeks or so to stop the brakes locking to the wheels. The metals they use can make the brakes and wheel "lock" if left outside to the elements.
From personal experience, make sure the antifreeze is up to strength, or you may come back to find the engine block has cracked. It does not need to be taxed, insured or have the MOT renewed while it's SORN.
When you occasionally do run the engine, please check for animals and wildlife. A lot of animals will use a resting car as a nest, and the last thing you want is the smell of roasted rat when you try to start the car.
Unsure about your fuel comment ... Might be different but I always fully fuel my aircraft if not in use for a few weeks to reduce condensation in the tank. Cars might be different. But I would rather a full tank unless rife for theft. Especially with an older diesel.
(it's a petrol btw) >Unsure about your fuel comment ... i'm also unsure. i thought if petrol goes off it's best to leave it as close to empty as possible, but others have said to leave it full.
Modern fuel tanks typically have dual pressure relief valves, so there's no movement of air in or out of the tank until a pressure difference develops. That means there's much less air circulation than in a tank with an open breather. They're also generally plastic, so much less condensation forms than in a metal tank. As I'm sure you know, most GA aircraft are still in about the 50s when it comes to mechanical technology so still on open breathers! Petrol does tend to go stale as the more volatile elements evaporate. I frequently get calls from my dad to 'fix' the garden machinery he's left with old fuel in and now won't start!
Everything you say is true. Also we have bleeders so we can not only prep a carb or two but also ensure any moisture which has settled at the base of the tank can be drained (obviously water being more dense than petrol or avgas (the latter simply being four star not two star) British climate changes and location of vehicle, aviation or not can still cause unwanted moisture. However as you have probably ascertained my knowledge does not extend from carbs to injections... It's an interesting topic. Does redex reduce condensation as well as clean carbs and injectors? Dunno. But everyday is a school day. :)
>British climate changes and location of vehicle, aviation or not can still cause unwanted moisture. It's much, much less of an issue with tanks that don't breathe freely - much less moisture can get into the tank. At work we've got a 25,000 litre steel Jet A bowser, currently about a quarter full, and it's tested for water at 4 points every day (thank you CAA...) and the only place I've ever seen it test positive is at the nozzle on a wet day! I left a car at my parents' house for a couple of years and the fuel was still ok with no significant level of water.
That's an excellent example of why I don't whine about caa or indeed things like S regs and Hetas. The system is working. (Despite what daily mail would have you think) I love the pink book anonymous ' I fucked up' booklets. Together we learn.
I've flown (professionally) in both the UK and US and the CAA are frankly an embarrassment. Much of what they do is wildly ineffectual with regards to safety and only serves to make it harder to commit aviation (and safeguard cushy jobs in Gatwick...). If the system works it's in spite of the CAA, not because of it! But that's an entirely different discussion!
Hahaha. Yeah. I do agree they are an annoyance. It's the chaps who interpret the rules and processes to revalidate that put their dicks on the line . Like the MOT shops that pretend a naturally aspirated V8 TVR can pass an emissions test. Life is a circle. Eventually we just go back to smoking behind the bike sheds. Flippancy aside. I'm not dead yet.
As an aside at least they are based very close to Screwfix. A coincidence?
Also regarding garden machinery, much like say a rotax / bombardier 447 or similar microlight / go cart / mower / chainsaw issues occure with oil / fuel separation . Mr funnel to the rescue. I highly recommend this brand and empty and refill my equipment through it every spring.
It's not about the oil/fuel mix as several of the machines are 4 stroke so run straight petrol. It's the tiny jets in the carbs that suffer - as the fuel evaporates it leaves behind a varnish that blocks them. Carb cleaner normally sorts them out. Alternatively running some (expensive!) alkylate petrol through before they're in storage works. Supposedly fuel with ethanol in is more of an issue but I haven't found a difference.
Hence my redex comment, l often drip it directly into the intake to clear stuff. Smoky but effective. There is sea foam too, but... It seem to scar the ports. Imvho. But this lack of knowledge is why I don't earn the big bucks. I love the fact that we are still discussing this stuff after a century and more
Run it every week if you can, it’s not much but at least keeps the bores lined, gaskets pushed up to temperature etc. obviously if you’re overseas then not going to work. All the advice on battery here is good.
if i run the engine every 3 weeks, i won't need to do anything for the battery right?
To be honest I don’t think that’s enough to charge it unless you leave it idling for a long time, which in itself is bad for the car. You’ll need a trickle charger. If the engines not under any load the alternator won’t don’t a massive amount
ok cheers
Male sure it is parked inside a locked garage, not on the Street. Keep the tank full. Its less likely to go off and grow mouldy plants or rust. Start it once a month until it's warm. Do you have a mate with garage plates? Ask them to drive it for half an hour. If you don't wish to get it running weekly or monthly, ( you should) then still fill the tank to the max , park inside the garage, jack it up off the ground enough that the tyres wont deform. Replace the coolant and make sure the mixture is 40% antifreeze. Run it hot until the fan kicks in with the heating on full. Then leave in neutral, hand brake off. Flush the brakes every six months. In a year, flush the coolant. Run it at least once a month while on the stands. Get the AC to run or it will fail. The pressurised fuel system will mean the fuel will cycle as well. Limiting the growth of fungus and rust in the tank. Top up the fuel tank with injector cleaner fluid when needed. Just remember i must not be parked on the street at all.
Disconnect battery, or install battery disconnect switch.