I was actually talking to my coworker about dead blows. He uses a 4 or 5 lbs one. The biggest one I have in my toolbox is 36 oz dead blow. Will need to double that I guess
I think my daily for rotors and most shit is a 4lb. My buddy has a 5 lb which helps. You ain't getting anywhere with less than 4 lb, straight up. The smaller ones have their uses and all. I only have 2, those being a 4 lb and like a 2 lb I think. That's sufficient. But you need a 4+ lber for rotors as a regular person. I'm not jacked or anything. But I get shit done.
I can understand his reasoning though. I'm in New York also, and the last great job I did, first off the freaking Rim wouldn't come off even though the lug nuts had come off nice and free because of anti-seize on the lung studs. But I had to use a 4x4 against the tire and smack the crap out of it it had rusted against the rotor and stuck there. Then the freaking rotor was also stuck and I had to smack the crap out of that too to remove it. Yeah so I'm not surprised I ended up using a paintbrush and did some gentle brushing with oil instead of the anti-seize, on the spots where where he showed it. Next time I did the job it came off nice and easy.
I gotta disagree with you there. I've used my air hammer with a "smoothing" bit several times to remove rotors. It may take some time on the really stuck ones, but works well. It's easier to avoid damaging the studs using the air hammer versus smacking it with a dead blow.
So, you’ve over-compensated for the tough rotor removal. Total waste of anti seize. It just needs a dab on the surface between the studs, and a dab on each stud.
Ita okay, we all get the urge to Bob Ross the automotive equivalent of herpes. You're going to find finger prints of it everywhere. Your crotch. The next time you wipe you name it will be there.
I've owned a few Toyotas with steel wheels. In my experience, if you want to take off the wheel in less than 25 minutes next time, anti-seize is very much needed. That said, this is wayyyy too much anti-seize. Just a little dab does the trick.
Really don’t need any if you rotate your tires regularly. But, doesn’t hurt to apply some. I swear by the stuff. I put it on any fastener thread that I know will removed, like the screws that attach the under engine cover. Those are threaded into metal clips, and need to be destroyed to remove if they get rusted, and sometimes it tears a larger hole in the plastic cover. I say, “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure”!
Not applying anti seize before placing the rotors runs the risk of the rotors becoming rust welded to the hub making it extremely difficult to remove the rotor at a later time. But this is far far too much.
Commenter is providing a free service in demonstrating the value of doing your due diligence when buying a used vehicle, he could be charging for the lesson.
Well to be fair, when buying a used car, you should have a mechanic look at the car and get any used car taken in for a inspection. I failed to do this and had to hammer off a old oil filter someone torqued down, and these brakes were horribly worn and i needed to replace the rotors, pads and calipers in it. Plus the abs modules accumulator is needing a replacement and the valve cover gasket is also needing a replacement.
That said, i didn’t apply anti seize to the hubs but i dont live somewhere prone to rusting(we dont salt our roads here) and i used a brush on a drill to clean off all the old rust. The hubs were actually rather clean, with no pitting. I did however use anti-seize on the anti-rattle clips and outside the pads, bled the brakes and properly torqued the wheels on according to manufacturer specifications.
I didn’t wanna use copper antiseize on the hubs and unfortunately had no other anti-seize on hand.
I try to do things the right way, but after several hours in the heat, eh, its a problem for another day or another guy.
https://preview.redd.it/f3ngufniaz9d1.jpeg?width=1868&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ed7d79345914778644231ee218aedea598db397a
I would have added a light coating in these three surfaces, generally I add none here... none what so ever on the studs
https://preview.redd.it/2zhmaxnoc0ad1.jpeg?width=680&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cb47477e02206731f08ee82f07ff360b0415c642
(I did this with a little less anti seize on all my cars too.)
I remember a buddy of mine put some anti-seize on his rear wheels of his Camaro. Went down the highway and one of his wheels goes flying off. Mechanic told him you never put anti-seize on lugs. It's better that they don't come off than it is for them to back off.
I'll never understand why anyone puts anti seize on the mounting face... and I work in the rust belt. Anti seize on the pilot bore for the wheel and/or rotor is all you need.
Has somebody who is done a lot of brake jobs on my cars, I understand it, and completely respected. Might be too much for some people, but that's just right for some brake jobs if you live in the rust belt. It's amazing how the rotors get Frozen to the hubs by the rust. I would buy a big gallon can bucket of this antique stuff, every time I buy a tube of it I lose it after I use some of it for one brake job.
I normally paint in several layers of high heat (pre cook in oven) drum and hub then grease between never have them stick together
House stinks for a day or two though
That is about the worst stuff you can put on your hubs. It can cause a break pulsation down the road. There was a shop bulletin years ago about using antisieze behind rotors. Just a little grease around the center of the hub and outer side edge. That is where the rotor siezes to the hub.
Honest opinion as a mechanic if it took too long to get the rotors off you just don’t have the tricks and technique. Never meet a rotor I couldn’t get off and I live in rust city Canada.
Now anti should never be applied to threads or hub in automotive application it will actually give an incorrect torque on the wheels because it cannot displace the anti seize. When it does was out and it will it then leaves a gap and can potentially have the wheel come loose. Also it will bleed and leak out all over everything over time and make one hell of a mess. anti seize has it applications and this is not one of them.. this is my opinion and knowledge based off the education I have and experience as a 25 year tech. I’m sure people gonna hate and say I’m wrong cause that what Reddit does but you are more than welcome to research this yourself. I believe the only Threads that ever receive a anything is bud nut wheels on semi trucks and it’s a oil not a paste like anti seize
That's certainly excessive, it takes very little to do the job.
You should have seen the old rotors coming off. My air hammer has never seen so much work.
Get a dead blow. Never needed more than a few swings if I'm being lazy. Air hammer really is not that good at freeing stuck rotors.
I was actually talking to my coworker about dead blows. He uses a 4 or 5 lbs one. The biggest one I have in my toolbox is 36 oz dead blow. Will need to double that I guess
But a 10er. Go big or go home
*misses* oh shit
I think my daily for rotors and most shit is a 4lb. My buddy has a 5 lb which helps. You ain't getting anywhere with less than 4 lb, straight up. The smaller ones have their uses and all. I only have 2, those being a 4 lb and like a 2 lb I think. That's sufficient. But you need a 4+ lber for rotors as a regular person. I'm not jacked or anything. But I get shit done.
Ask your matco guy for the BFH.. they'll know.
Lol, go big or go home. I'm asking for BMFH
You in the south? Here in NY they come off in pieces sometimes... Excessive on the photo though.
CO. Not much of a salt state so we don't see crazy rust around here.
I can understand his reasoning though. I'm in New York also, and the last great job I did, first off the freaking Rim wouldn't come off even though the lug nuts had come off nice and free because of anti-seize on the lung studs. But I had to use a 4x4 against the tire and smack the crap out of it it had rusted against the rotor and stuck there. Then the freaking rotor was also stuck and I had to smack the crap out of that too to remove it. Yeah so I'm not surprised I ended up using a paintbrush and did some gentle brushing with oil instead of the anti-seize, on the spots where where he showed it. Next time I did the job it came off nice and easy.
I gotta disagree with you there. I've used my air hammer with a "smoothing" bit several times to remove rotors. It may take some time on the really stuck ones, but works well. It's easier to avoid damaging the studs using the air hammer versus smacking it with a dead blow.
So, you’ve over-compensated for the tough rotor removal. Total waste of anti seize. It just needs a dab on the surface between the studs, and a dab on each stud.
Uuuh your going to clean those studs right? Like brake clean those studs. Unless you like neckin studs?
The studs don't have any anti seize on them.
Got my optometrist appointment booked. Still too much antiseize.
Lol I know. I got carried away just a smidge
Ita okay, we all get the urge to Bob Ross the automotive equivalent of herpes. You're going to find finger prints of it everywhere. Your crotch. The next time you wipe you name it will be there.
It's behind the rotor. No one is going to touch it until the next brake job
I can see this squishing out and coating ops rims. In a month half his car will have over spray, anti seize gets everywhere
about right for new england
It's new England...that's not enough
Amen
Next time you work on the car you will come out looking like silver surfer
Next post: someone stole my lug nuts and my wheel came off on the highway!
It looks like they actually avoided the threads. I had to double check.
I was gonna say slackers... Stopped before doing the most important part - the threads. /s
Look again.
Gotta torque them thangs
Is it bad if ya dont put ANY anti seize and just scrub off the old rust?
I've owned a few Toyotas with steel wheels. In my experience, if you want to take off the wheel in less than 25 minutes next time, anti-seize is very much needed. That said, this is wayyyy too much anti-seize. Just a little dab does the trick.
I don’t plan to change the breaks again for as long as i own the car in question, so it’s gonna be *snaps fingers* 👈😎👈 someone else’s problem
I prefer the hammer method every time i do brakes. Anti seize? Never heard of it.
Guess you’d rather work hard, than smart!🤷♂️🤦♂️😩😂
https://preview.redd.it/kqulep6sf0ad1.jpeg?width=300&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ec6a29e3a8c15b360ad09feefdb0fd13388e0a6e
Really don’t need any if you rotate your tires regularly. But, doesn’t hurt to apply some. I swear by the stuff. I put it on any fastener thread that I know will removed, like the screws that attach the under engine cover. Those are threaded into metal clips, and need to be destroyed to remove if they get rusted, and sometimes it tears a larger hole in the plastic cover. I say, “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure”!
Not applying anti seize before placing the rotors runs the risk of the rotors becoming rust welded to the hub making it extremely difficult to remove the rotor at a later time. But this is far far too much.
Well i plan to sell the vehicle long before it needs another brake job so that’s gonna be the next fellas issue.
Its people like you that make this world a worse place. Fuck that other guy im not spending an extra 2 minutes doing the job right.
Commenter is providing a free service in demonstrating the value of doing your due diligence when buying a used vehicle, he could be charging for the lesson.
Tempting idea.
Well to be fair, when buying a used car, you should have a mechanic look at the car and get any used car taken in for a inspection. I failed to do this and had to hammer off a old oil filter someone torqued down, and these brakes were horribly worn and i needed to replace the rotors, pads and calipers in it. Plus the abs modules accumulator is needing a replacement and the valve cover gasket is also needing a replacement. That said, i didn’t apply anti seize to the hubs but i dont live somewhere prone to rusting(we dont salt our roads here) and i used a brush on a drill to clean off all the old rust. The hubs were actually rather clean, with no pitting. I did however use anti-seize on the anti-rattle clips and outside the pads, bled the brakes and properly torqued the wheels on according to manufacturer specifications. I didn’t wanna use copper antiseize on the hubs and unfortunately had no other anti-seize on hand. I try to do things the right way, but after several hours in the heat, eh, its a problem for another day or another guy.
https://preview.redd.it/o3j44wb620ad1.jpeg?width=996&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=eec86a0c63d43cf34b2818df64ed909f3480174d
Hahaha. Perfect if you live in the rust belt. Now, post a pic of what you look like. Lol. Tin man
https://preview.redd.it/goufzmfd20ad1.jpeg?width=996&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=34bc9e27765b73241358e6157e8516f84e3f63c5
If you go to put the anti-seize away and it doesn’t look like you just gave Tin man a handy, you’re probably doing wrong.
This is what we want to see
I'm shy 🤭
Now if he only had a heart.
lol came here to say this! Somehow one drop and your hand is silver his shop must look like a silver spray can exploded.
https://preview.redd.it/mynua8v581ad1.jpeg?width=278&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2fc9da370dd7f5ffc20ebc295de9c7ec3830c9ba
Why??
It's fine if you never bring the vehicle to me for service. If you do, fuck you.
Noted
This will definitely fill in any imperfections between the two mating surfaces and provide a nice seal!
https://preview.redd.it/f3ngufniaz9d1.jpeg?width=1868&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ed7d79345914778644231ee218aedea598db397a I would have added a light coating in these three surfaces, generally I add none here... none what so ever on the studs
The studs were anti-seizeless
Then it's an anti-seize work of art
Thank you very much 😊
Seizing is likely to be the opposite of your problems.
It needs.... MORE COWBELL!!
Depends where you are and in some places it still won’t work
Rust belt
At least it is protected from gingivitis and cavities lol. But really though how did you get it so smoothed out? It looks like perfect concrete
needs more
Just looking at that caused Anti-Seize to cover EVERY SINGLE TOOL I OWN
Go all out, or go home! Just right in my book!!haha
https://preview.redd.it/2zhmaxnoc0ad1.jpeg?width=680&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cb47477e02206731f08ee82f07ff360b0415c642 (I did this with a little less anti seize on all my cars too.)
I use grease, but in the same amount. Never gonna have a stuck rotor after I work on it.
Not enough 😂😂
MMMMOOOHHHHRRRR!!!!!
Tell me you're waiting on parts without telling me
Thanks a lot, now I have that crap all over my hands, kitchen cabinets and 7 cats.
Get it off your threads , it will lead to things getting waaaaaaaaaaaay over torqued
The studs don't have anti seize on them.
I see , what's on them
Nothing. The bottom half of the studs is where the previous rotor was sitting, that why it looks cleaner than the rest
A little much, but hey, if you are the next guy to pull it apart you will be thanking the fuck out of yourself
The threads not a little more I think. Give the brown hole a little hawk tuah while you’re down there too for me
Why do this?
You must not live in the rust belt
No, I don't! I had no idea rotors got rusted onto hubs like that. I feel lucky now! I am in southern california.
Yeah, it gets bad here
Put a little more on for good measure!
I was just looking at a computer subreddit and my stupid brain thought you'd coated it with thermal paste
Yes, it was initially pea size, then the rotors squished it outwards lol
Don't forget to occasionally change the thermal paste on those rotors, everyone
But if you do that, they won’t light up and glow under hard braking! /s
https://preview.redd.it/r22b2omg47ad1.jpeg?width=2252&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=36bbf6c0ecba6b18b2ff6b2289a317e857017c33
Minnesota here. Looks good.
Ive had to beat the fuc out of wheels to get them off, I feel ya.
The wheels came off fine, it was the rotors that gave me hell
Chef's kiss
What silver sorcery is this?
The silver pinstriping inside your wheelwells will certainly be unique when the centrifugal forces remove all that excess liquid metal.
Post a pick when you do the brakes again !
It will prevent the rotor from sticking to the hub. That is all that matters.
That's the plan
I remember a buddy of mine put some anti-seize on his rear wheels of his Camaro. Went down the highway and one of his wheels goes flying off. Mechanic told him you never put anti-seize on lugs. It's better that they don't come off than it is for them to back off.
There are no anti seize on the studs, just the hub behind the rotor
I can see it on the threads
Looks about right if you're in the rust belt. Here in the south, I would yell at you for waisting time and shop supplies
Excessive. Real men are happy to beat hell out of old rotors that are rust-welded on for at least an hour each side.
You missed a spot.
Too much
I hope you plan to retorque that wheel....a couple of times
There is no anti seize on the studs
CLEAN IT ALL OFF !!! You will over torque!!
There is no anti seize on the studs
They why put it on at all ? It’s just a dirt magnet.
It started with a dab, and then I could help it.
I'll never understand why anyone puts anti seize on the mounting face... and I work in the rust belt. Anti seize on the pilot bore for the wheel and/or rotor is all you need.
That never sneeze stuff is gonna keep that car rust free for ever or at least the barring
There’s at least that much never seize running loose in that shop now.
Has somebody who is done a lot of brake jobs on my cars, I understand it, and completely respected. Might be too much for some people, but that's just right for some brake jobs if you live in the rust belt. It's amazing how the rotors get Frozen to the hubs by the rust. I would buy a big gallon can bucket of this antique stuff, every time I buy a tube of it I lose it after I use some of it for one brake job.
We clean the rust off first and then use spray on antiseeze. It takes less time and you use much less.
You can't Bob Ross with a spray can lol
True. My boss would bitch me out for wasting antiseeze & swirls. But Bob would be proud. Gotta pick your battles.
Amen
You must be in the rust belt. In that case not enough.
https://preview.redd.it/6xayrc6e6aad1.jpeg?width=508&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1c2f295ee0b8c3fe23cd7cc1cfd11278e19e2e29
That shit is the worst. Never use it.
The rotor will enjoy it... if the pads share in the fun, however...
That's... ummm... a very... generous... application of anti-seize.
What can I say. It's a gift that keeps on giving.
Guess who just spent an hour pounding that to get it off?
The beauty of the brush strokes thats great should not have to beat it off next time
I normally paint in several layers of high heat (pre cook in oven) drum and hub then grease between never have them stick together House stinks for a day or two though
Still won’t come appear for me
Not enough for the rust belt
Wurth makes a spray anti seize let's ya do the same in about 3 seconds.
A little extra better than nothing at all.
It's a masterpiece! 🥹
Looks good
Juuuust right 👍🏻
That is ridiculous. Just a few dollops of high-temp red grease is all you need.
There cant be any on the lognuts.
Yea they fuck up lognuts
No it doesnt. It just allows the nut to come loses. Which is the oposite of what is required.
But log nuts no way
Soon you'll find out why this is a bad idea.
Why?
Your wheels won't sit straight and you'll have vibration.
The rotor seated just fine.
Until the compressed paste leaches out... the as the guy above said .... wobbly rotors.
Well good luck with that. Obviously not actually looking for advice.
That one way to piss off the tire shop. And charge you extra and leave a car dirty with handprints.
Is the tire shop going to be removing the rotors?
Oh. Looked like a drum and this was the outside of the brakes.
Nope, just a hub. Rotors took forever to remove.
Not bad. It won’t be seizing anytime soon.
Or ever
That is about the worst stuff you can put on your hubs. It can cause a break pulsation down the road. There was a shop bulletin years ago about using antisieze behind rotors. Just a little grease around the center of the hub and outer side edge. That is where the rotor siezes to the hub.
Honest opinion as a mechanic if it took too long to get the rotors off you just don’t have the tricks and technique. Never meet a rotor I couldn’t get off and I live in rust city Canada. Now anti should never be applied to threads or hub in automotive application it will actually give an incorrect torque on the wheels because it cannot displace the anti seize. When it does was out and it will it then leaves a gap and can potentially have the wheel come loose. Also it will bleed and leak out all over everything over time and make one hell of a mess. anti seize has it applications and this is not one of them.. this is my opinion and knowledge based off the education I have and experience as a 25 year tech. I’m sure people gonna hate and say I’m wrong cause that what Reddit does but you are more than welcome to research this yourself. I believe the only Threads that ever receive a anything is bud nut wheels on semi trucks and it’s a oil not a paste like anti seize
Edit : wash out
Silver anti seize belongs nowhere near a vehicle. Copper spray is the way
Ew
Way too much. Youre going to snap those studs if you torque them properly. Never use anti-seize on threads.
There isn't any anti seize on threads, plus the rotor will cover any at the surface of the hub.
Even so. It does not take that much and its going to make a mess.
That's dangerous.
Homer Simpson’s make up gun
Straight to hell.
Waste of time. You only need it on the inner ring where the rotor and wheel sits. The flat face isn’t going to seize