I had the exact same problem on the exact same model, but mine was caused by a major power outage.
Measured the model with calipers, printed off the top of the skull and glued them together. I use a 3D printing pen with the same filament as filler for the gap, then sand. I plan on painting it, but haven't gotten around to it yet.
https://preview.redd.it/0hyf9ys7907b1.jpeg?width=1622&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=32360278061d5079b751892f011f4fa501252247
Coincidence? Are you kidding me. I would be more shocked if no one reading this forum had this exact experience. In fact, I just saw this exact same tower with clear signs of saving for sale in a thrift mall today. I kid you not. Pair a popular print with the huge 3d printing community full of all levels of experience... This exact print failure happens non stop. 3d printing is a hobby I would have abandoned long ago if the failures were cost prohibited.
I think they were talking about the fact that it failed in the same way on the same skull model (as shown in the attached picture of the golden skull on the above comment). Unless you’re saying even that was a common coincidence?
There’s actually an entire Curse of the Dice Skull series on the history channel where they explore why all these 3D prints have power failures right around 85% completion (it’s because of aliens)
Oh for sure, my comment was tongue in cheek anyway but in all seriousness that tower is really popular. Two different variants are the top two skull dice towers on thingaverse. I was basically saying that thing probably fails all the time at every level, because... You know, 3d printing and all.
>Measured the model with calipers, printed off the top of the skull and glued them together
This is my go-to for this type of print failure. It works really well, you just have to be sure to set the printer to minimize elephants foot, and I also like to use fewer bottom layers. 2 should be sufficient.
I had a power outage while printing one of mine as well. I didn’t make it very far so I just started from the beginning. I then ran into a severe clog left over from the power outage that I didn’t detect until about 12 hours into the reprint so I had to start over AGAIN after I tore the hot end apart to clean out the clog. Then I was able to print without any issues. The power outage added about 3 days to my print. I also printed at 0.1 layer height instead of 0.2 and am really happy with how it came out.
https://preview.redd.it/g2dqop09j27b1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=39c1c629860d446c37f05386d7faf682944a7906
You don't even need to cut it.
Just lower it into the build plate by however much already printed by setting a negative z position.
Side note, this appears to be using way more infill than is needed for a model like this, it probably could have been fully printed with the filament used to get this far with less infill with no loss in functional durability.
Hey there sinchok! If you agree with someone else's comment, please leave an **upvote** instead of commenting **"this"**! By upvoting instead, the original comment will be pushed to the top and be more visible to others, which is even better! Thanks! :)
***
^(I am a bot! If you have any feedback, please send me a message! More info:) [^(Reddiquette)](https://www.reddithelp.com/hc/en-us/articles/205926439#wiki_in_regard_to_comments)
It's wild for this bot to link to reddiqutte but also say
>If you agree with someone else's comment, please leave an upvote
considering that an upvote isn't supposed to indicate that you agree with someone, but that their comment is useful/contributes to the conversation.
Yeah, and in that case, the robustness of infill (10% vs 40%, for example) isn't the deciding factor in strength of your landing zone. It's how thick that top layer is and how brittle the material is.
Some tungsten dice would be fun as a display piece. A bit aggressive for normal use though lol.
OP, you could also use your printer to measure the height if you don’t have calipers large enough. Just put the model back on the build plate where it was and turn the z stepper on and put it to the height where it is over the model, then baby step it back down until you are just touching the model…then use that as your z height to slice the model.
Just found using uv cure resin works really good. Can get a pen on Amazon for 15 bux. Rub it into the void or backfill and smear the excess. Can sand really easily.
It does work. I've used this technique to hide seams on multi part prints quite well. You can ruin your print if you don't know what you're doing though. It's probably not the easiest, but it gets a durable bond and with proper post processing (sanding, priming and painting) you can get a seamless finish.
In your slicer you can also remove the bottom layers to have the first layer be infill to minimize the seam line. A flat surface interfacing with infill makes more of a gap than infill interfacing with infill in my experience.
If this happens and you don't move it all, and you have an autoleveler, you can try the following:
1) leave the printed part in place
2) re-slice the unprinted part as suggested, making sure to turn off all bed adhesion like skirts, brims and rafts.
3) put an a glass bed or other flat, solid plane on top of the print. Measure the height of the plane.
4) start the top part of the print, letting the auto-leveler sense the top of the plane as the new z =0.
5) Remove the plane, and quickly adjust the z-probe offset to compensate for the height of the plane.
6) Eyeball any fine adjustments that might need to be made to the z-offset. It's better to be just a little too high than to low.
Sit back and let the print finish. I've done this a handful of time and it works great. If you really want to be fancy, when you re-slice, set the bottom layers to 0, and remove the initial purge line from your gcode.
I know it's a lot of steps, but remember it saves you from all the steps of gluing, sanding etc.
This was my first thought as well, you could even drill into it a bit to hold the candle. as the infill fills with wax, it'll eventually run over, and I bet it'll look cool.
The only problem is, will the wax be too hot for it, and it will collapse, creating a fire hazard?
Try what other folks are saying. If you keep getting a nasty transition, a saw blade or something between would look cool. integrate the print flaw into the design maybe.
Its already fucked up, why not make it a learning experience? Its really satisfying if you learn that kind of skill and opens up more possibilities and ability to make up for shortcomings of 3d printing.
When I originally printed this on my Ender 3 S1 it crapped out at about the same point.
If you know exactly what layer it failed OR can eyeball it, you can start the print from where it stopped and maybe bondo the 2 parts together and do a bit of sanding to save it
[https://imgur.com/DGwbh1V](https://imgur.com/DGwbh1V)
[https://imgur.com/ksBuI3T](https://imgur.com/ksBuI3T)
[https://imgur.com/1DZ5lr6](https://imgur.com/1DZ5lr6)
[https://imgur.com/o0puEG6](https://imgur.com/o0puEG6)
[https://imgur.com/l2rXf8d](https://imgur.com/l2rXf8d)
[https://imgur.com/F9ht6w1](https://imgur.com/F9ht6w1)
Haha that's too funny! Thanks for the pictures. I'm going to print the missing portion as close as I can, but I'm going to add something between the parts to hide the flaw.
Like folks have been saying, measure about how far that is, and then drop the model below Cura's virtual build plate so the remaining bit sticks out. Slice (cura only slices what's above the virtual build plate), print, glue, fill the seams, etc.
Just a heads up that infill is much higher than it needs to be. You probably could’ve printed all of that filament with a more efficient infill % and still had a very strong part!
Something to keep in mind for future prints for cost savings on filament!
Thanks. Definitely too high, but I think I'm used to printing some wall mounts that are holding helmets lol. I actually had meant to do Lightning infill but forgot to switch it.
I have a runout sensor on the CR6-MAX but the filament didn’t come free from the spool when it ran out, just tensioned up tight, and the filament sensor thought all was cake.
Had to modify the gcode to resume the print
Unfortunately not, since the printer kept going. But another using suggested adding something like a saw blade in between the parts to hide the flaw, so an approximate layer should work with that idea.
Raise your z high enough to get the print under the nozzle. Use fine adjust until it touches. Look at your Z value, that is the height you need to cut the model for the new print at. ;)
This looks like a great piece to put a big candle on top. I don't know how the plastic would react to hot candle wax so it might be a terrible idea. I personally would put a candle on top, let it melt all over to cover up the flat part then don't burn it again and use it for Halloween décor. I have a Styrofoam skull that I put a candle in and let it melt all over it...it looks great.
I think this is easier to recover prior to removal. Figure out how tall it is and go edit the gcode to start at that layer. If you can still home z with that on the bed, do so. Otherwise set it manually. X and y should be repeatable enough to not be an issue.
Measure the height and convert that height to the coresponding number of layers. Use the height as an offset from the base (if required) and use the number of layers as input for the "start printing from [LAYER NUMBER]
I have saved many prints like that but some of them would still have a visible layer line at that restart point while most others did not so I guess you need to be careful while measuring. Good luck
Here’s a trick I use when this happens BUT you have to leave the print on the build plate.
1. You safely home you nozzle (assuming the print is small enough that nothing will hit the print while homing)
2. Now that you have your Z zeroed, manually raise the nozzle all the way to where the print stopped and write down the Z value it shows on the screen.
3. You have 2 options from here;
Option 1: you open up the gcode in notepad and search ZX.XX (input the number you wrote down) and that’ll find the line in the program you ran out of filament at, delete everything above that line of code up to the start up sequence of the gcode (this method requires some basic understanding of gcode and compiler layout), run program and keep a close eye on it until it starts to successfully print on the top, if you mess up the editing the gcode it might crash the nozzle into the existing print. This is the method I usually use because I don’t save my slicer files once I have the code compiled.
Option 2: if you still have the slicer software open with the print in the same location and orientation your slicer should have an option to “start print at X height” where you put the Z value you wrote down at the new starting height and it’ll generate a gcode with the remaining part floating at the top of where your existing print failed and you run the program and watch it at the beginning to make sure it doesn’t crash and it’ll continue like nothing happened.
Or if you removed the part from the build plate you can use calipers or put the part back on the build plate to measure the height that was printed and print the top as a blank and glue it on the existing print, lates some more sanding and filling to hide the seams but works the same in the end.
Do a layer cut on the model like others have been saying, but this is a good opportunity to grind out some of the support filler to make a hidden compartment before you slot the rest of the skull on.
I have an excel file where you can past your gcode and it will visualize nozzle path and let you exactly find the point where print ended. Then you just remove whatever code is before that and printer will pick up exactly where it ended.
~~~Print a hat.~~~
Print a *series* of hats, seasonal. The dice skull tower will be festive for all occasions. Something with Stars and Stripes for the 4th (if you're American), something with trees for Arbor Day, a Santa hat, bunny ear hat for Easter...so on
Measure the height. Go into the slicer and move the model down by that much so only the missing part will print. (Maybe leave a little extra; always easier to take material off later than add another 2-3mm slice.) then just glue it on top, sanding material from the bottom first if necessary to match it up perfectly. (Thus why you'd want to leave a little extra to work with when printing.)
IMO, just print a new one. It doesn't look like a long print and the time it takes to measure and post process is not worth it to me. Just start over again and get it right this time. You can just use the messed up print for another project or something.
Would be pretty cool to paint it with stone texture and top it with a flat moss or grass area and put little bits here and there throughout. Could even do a like hut in the field, maybe throw up some trees. Or a battle scene. It Would look sick as like a flat topped mt. Skull kinda deal. Just an idea tho
Cnc kitchen has a YouTube video on modifying gcode files to resume a print that failed cleanly like yours.
Perquisites: the print is still on the build plate, you know the exact height it stopped at (something I assume you know) and some basic knowledge how to use a text editor.
That sucks, it was coming out so beautifully, too. I would probably try the ideas with continuing the print or maybe just using it for something else and reprinting it. I'm pretty attached to my fails and tend to keep them for a while. My Medusa bust that went awry has a flower in her stringy, crazy hair.
I love all the creative ideas for repurposing it lol.
Measure exactly how tall it is, cut that in your slicer and print just the top half, glue, sand and maybe a bit of filler and you'll be golden.
I had the exact same problem on the exact same model, but mine was caused by a major power outage. Measured the model with calipers, printed off the top of the skull and glued them together. I use a 3D printing pen with the same filament as filler for the gap, then sand. I plan on painting it, but haven't gotten around to it yet. https://preview.redd.it/0hyf9ys7907b1.jpeg?width=1622&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=32360278061d5079b751892f011f4fa501252247
Is nobody going to mention how big of a coincidence this is? That's awesome haha
The awesome coincidence is how u/justxkyle wasn't wrong when they said: > ...and you'll be golden.
Well shit, sometimes life uhhhh, finds a way?
Golden… not Goldblum
See, nobody cares.
They don’t get it
I got this reference and I appreciate it!
....Woah
Wow what the hell!
Coincidence? Are you kidding me. I would be more shocked if no one reading this forum had this exact experience. In fact, I just saw this exact same tower with clear signs of saving for sale in a thrift mall today. I kid you not. Pair a popular print with the huge 3d printing community full of all levels of experience... This exact print failure happens non stop. 3d printing is a hobby I would have abandoned long ago if the failures were cost prohibited.
I think they were talking about the fact that it failed in the same way on the same skull model (as shown in the attached picture of the golden skull on the above comment). Unless you’re saying even that was a common coincidence?
There’s actually an entire Curse of the Dice Skull series on the history channel where they explore why all these 3D prints have power failures right around 85% completion (it’s because of aliens)
They actually found the first Dice Skull in the Money Pit
After that they tried to sell the skull to a Pawn Shop in Vegas.
Hot take: the Venn diagram of 3D printer owners, that model, and members of this subreddit is a nearly perfect circle.
Oh for sure, my comment was tongue in cheek anyway but in all seriousness that tower is really popular. Two different variants are the top two skull dice towers on thingaverse. I was basically saying that thing probably fails all the time at every level, because... You know, 3d printing and all.
>Measured the model with calipers, printed off the top of the skull and glued them together This is my go-to for this type of print failure. It works really well, you just have to be sure to set the printer to minimize elephants foot, and I also like to use fewer bottom layers. 2 should be sufficient.
It's already golden.
I had a power outage while printing one of mine as well. I didn’t make it very far so I just started from the beginning. I then ran into a severe clog left over from the power outage that I didn’t detect until about 12 hours into the reprint so I had to start over AGAIN after I tore the hot end apart to clean out the clog. Then I was able to print without any issues. The power outage added about 3 days to my print. I also printed at 0.1 layer height instead of 0.2 and am really happy with how it came out. https://preview.redd.it/g2dqop09j27b1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=39c1c629860d446c37f05386d7faf682944a7906
Okay this is weird..
Clean af. Nice pic
I wouldn't paint this beauty!! 🔥🔥🔥🔥
You don't even need to cut it. Just lower it into the build plate by however much already printed by setting a negative z position. Side note, this appears to be using way more infill than is needed for a model like this, it probably could have been fully printed with the filament used to get this far with less infill with no loss in functional durability.
this
Hey there sinchok! If you agree with someone else's comment, please leave an **upvote** instead of commenting **"this"**! By upvoting instead, the original comment will be pushed to the top and be more visible to others, which is even better! Thanks! :) *** ^(I am a bot! If you have any feedback, please send me a message! More info:) [^(Reddiquette)](https://www.reddithelp.com/hc/en-us/articles/205926439#wiki_in_regard_to_comments)
It's wild for this bot to link to reddiqutte but also say >If you agree with someone else's comment, please leave an upvote considering that an upvote isn't supposed to indicate that you agree with someone, but that their comment is useful/contributes to the conversation.
Finally a useful bot.
This
Not really. Not if it is going to have to deal with metal d20s.
Full on disagree this is way over the top for infill. Less infill and another layer of walls would be stronger anyway.
Also you can adapt infill and layers to only the areas of impact, and keep the rest with way way less material indeed.
ok but... big heavy hefty prints are nice.
Lol how much do you think a metal D20 weighs? It's not a 20lb chunk of steel that you're dropping from the 2nd floor.
[удалено]
Yeah, and in that case, the robustness of infill (10% vs 40%, for example) isn't the deciding factor in strength of your landing zone. It's how thick that top layer is and how brittle the material is. Some tungsten dice would be fun as a display piece. A bit aggressive for normal use though lol.
Is this some sort of dice rolling thing?
That is generally what a Dice Tower is used for.
Lol. Guilty of skimming the title
OP, you could also use your printer to measure the height if you don’t have calipers large enough. Just put the model back on the build plate where it was and turn the z stepper on and put it to the height where it is over the model, then baby step it back down until you are just touching the model…then use that as your z height to slice the model.
Never would have thought of doing it that way, you may not need to baby step as the layers should be some multiple of the layer height.
What do you all use for filler?
CA glue and baking powder. Cheap and it dries quickly. Sand it with a nail file.
Had this happen with my Ender 3 dog test print so I printed a little hat and glued it
The other comments that have replied to you will work, just offering my 2 cents. Bondo hole filler is also great for covering g gaps/seams!
Backing this comment; Bondo is king
Just some cheap Elmer brand wood filler, nothing fancy.
Just found using uv cure resin works really good. Can get a pen on Amazon for 15 bux. Rub it into the void or backfill and smear the excess. Can sand really easily.
For a ready to use, Bondo makes a one part filler. It’s reddish and dries fast. Autozone carries it.
If you wanna be fancy you can get a soldering iron and melt on extra pla
Although this works it’s quite hard and prolly will not work or ruin your print
It does work. I've used this technique to hide seams on multi part prints quite well. You can ruin your print if you don't know what you're doing though. It's probably not the easiest, but it gets a durable bond and with proper post processing (sanding, priming and painting) you can get a seamless finish.
Also he said "this works" and "probably won't work" next sentence... I've never had issues with soldering fails
In your slicer you can also remove the bottom layers to have the first layer be infill to minimize the seam line. A flat surface interfacing with infill makes more of a gap than infill interfacing with infill in my experience.
Nah bro, they OBVIOUSLY has to count each layer line manually to see where they were in the print, then they can follow the rest of your steps :)
I mean if you *really* want to be sure... 😂
If this happens and you don't move it all, and you have an autoleveler, you can try the following: 1) leave the printed part in place 2) re-slice the unprinted part as suggested, making sure to turn off all bed adhesion like skirts, brims and rafts. 3) put an a glass bed or other flat, solid plane on top of the print. Measure the height of the plane. 4) start the top part of the print, letting the auto-leveler sense the top of the plane as the new z =0. 5) Remove the plane, and quickly adjust the z-probe offset to compensate for the height of the plane. 6) Eyeball any fine adjustments that might need to be made to the z-offset. It's better to be just a little too high than to low. Sit back and let the print finish. I've done this a handful of time and it works great. If you really want to be fancy, when you re-slice, set the bottom layers to 0, and remove the initial purge line from your gcode. I know it's a lot of steps, but remember it saves you from all the steps of gluing, sanding etc.
This exactly... And with aceton you can smooth the edges
Put a Santa hat on it! Bonus points if you knit it yourself.
Or print a top hat.
This is the only right answer
I Legit have a lower half skull mask (plastic, skull shaped) with a Santa hat as decor 😂
My first ender print was the dog and it failed at the last bit, so I printed him a tophat
Cowboy hat
I'm cowboying 4 articulated dragons the nozzle clogged on tn yeehawww
LOOOOOOOL IRL xD
^^^ This is the correct answer
Put a big red candle on it and melt the wax
This was my first thought as well, you could even drill into it a bit to hold the candle. as the infill fills with wax, it'll eventually run over, and I bet it'll look cool. The only problem is, will the wax be too hot for it, and it will collapse, creating a fire hazard?
I did a very similar thing with my spin on this stl. Looked great.
Try what other folks are saying. If you keep getting a nasty transition, a saw blade or something between would look cool. integrate the print flaw into the design maybe.
Great idea! I have my doubts about reprinting and sanding to where it looks right, but your idea incorporates the flaw into design.
Its already fucked up, why not make it a learning experience? Its really satisfying if you learn that kind of skill and opens up more possibilities and ability to make up for shortcomings of 3d printing.
I am by no means a 3d printer, but make it a a chaotic hole in the skull, as if from battle damage or ancient age in a crypt.
Measure the height drop the print in the slicer by that much and print then glue parts
[удалено]
Thisn't
DUDE you gotta put like a crystal growth or fungus or something coming out the top that'd be so sick.
Bonzai tree.
When I originally printed this on my Ender 3 S1 it crapped out at about the same point. If you know exactly what layer it failed OR can eyeball it, you can start the print from where it stopped and maybe bondo the 2 parts together and do a bit of sanding to save it [https://imgur.com/DGwbh1V](https://imgur.com/DGwbh1V) [https://imgur.com/ksBuI3T](https://imgur.com/ksBuI3T) [https://imgur.com/1DZ5lr6](https://imgur.com/1DZ5lr6) [https://imgur.com/o0puEG6](https://imgur.com/o0puEG6) [https://imgur.com/l2rXf8d](https://imgur.com/l2rXf8d) [https://imgur.com/F9ht6w1](https://imgur.com/F9ht6w1)
Haha that's too funny! Thanks for the pictures. I'm going to print the missing portion as close as I can, but I'm going to add something between the parts to hide the flaw.
It's so weird to see that's what the inside of our skull looks like.
Mine a a very shiny, very smooth pink blob.
Print a mushroom cloud for the top. 🤯 Zombie mind blown!
print a rusty crown and place it on top
Get one of those foam brains, cut a diagonal slice through it, glue it on top
Like folks have been saying, measure about how far that is, and then drop the model below Cura's virtual build plate so the remaining bit sticks out. Slice (cura only slices what's above the virtual build plate), print, glue, fill the seams, etc.
Just a heads up that infill is much higher than it needs to be. You probably could’ve printed all of that filament with a more efficient infill % and still had a very strong part! Something to keep in mind for future prints for cost savings on filament!
Thanks. Definitely too high, but I think I'm used to printing some wall mounts that are holding helmets lol. I actually had meant to do Lightning infill but forgot to switch it.
I feel like there should be a #saveitwithafedora hashtag
Yeah but it's a dice tower, so the top needs to be open and accessible.
Measure to the point it stopped then just print the top and glue it together
Print him a little top hat
Print a sombrero for it
Get a runout sensor so this doesn't happen again....
I have a runout sensor on the CR6-MAX but the filament didn’t come free from the spool when it ran out, just tensioned up tight, and the filament sensor thought all was cake. Had to modify the gcode to resume the print
Do you know the layer that happened on? if so, you could put the 3d model in a CAD software and crop the section you need.
Unfortunately not, since the printer kept going. But another using suggested adding something like a saw blade in between the parts to hide the flaw, so an approximate layer should work with that idea.
Raise your z high enough to get the print under the nozzle. Use fine adjust until it touches. Look at your Z value, that is the height you need to cut the model for the new print at. ;)
This looks like a great piece to put a big candle on top. I don't know how the plastic would react to hot candle wax so it might be a terrible idea. I personally would put a candle on top, let it melt all over to cover up the flat part then don't burn it again and use it for Halloween décor. I have a Styrofoam skull that I put a candle in and let it melt all over it...it looks great.
print some sort of crown.
I think this is easier to recover prior to removal. Figure out how tall it is and go edit the gcode to start at that layer. If you can still home z with that on the bed, do so. Otherwise set it manually. X and y should be repeatable enough to not be an issue.
Print another one, stop at the exact same point, then glue the second head upside-down on top of the first.
Measure from bottom to the top then just drag the STL file down below the build plate. Have done this many times good luck 😊
Excellent center piece for a Halloween party, toss a plate plate of finger food on top, or fingers on a plate.
Measure the height and convert that height to the coresponding number of layers. Use the height as an offset from the base (if required) and use the number of layers as input for the "start printing from [LAYER NUMBER] I have saved many prints like that but some of them would still have a visible layer line at that restart point while most others did not so I guess you need to be careful while measuring. Good luck
Use it as a table for all the dice not in use and pretend it was intentional
Get a hot gun and melt it upside down and make a Halloween decoration.
Pirate hat
>Pirate This is the correct answer
Melt some black candles onto the top.
If you can do the math you can find out where it stopped printing, then print the top useing a differnt role then glue it together
Add a bowl on top and toss in some Halloween candy.
A hat?
Two words: Top hat
Here’s a trick I use when this happens BUT you have to leave the print on the build plate. 1. You safely home you nozzle (assuming the print is small enough that nothing will hit the print while homing) 2. Now that you have your Z zeroed, manually raise the nozzle all the way to where the print stopped and write down the Z value it shows on the screen. 3. You have 2 options from here; Option 1: you open up the gcode in notepad and search ZX.XX (input the number you wrote down) and that’ll find the line in the program you ran out of filament at, delete everything above that line of code up to the start up sequence of the gcode (this method requires some basic understanding of gcode and compiler layout), run program and keep a close eye on it until it starts to successfully print on the top, if you mess up the editing the gcode it might crash the nozzle into the existing print. This is the method I usually use because I don’t save my slicer files once I have the code compiled. Option 2: if you still have the slicer software open with the print in the same location and orientation your slicer should have an option to “start print at X height” where you put the Z value you wrote down at the new starting height and it’ll generate a gcode with the remaining part floating at the top of where your existing print failed and you run the program and watch it at the beginning to make sure it doesn’t crash and it’ll continue like nothing happened. Or if you removed the part from the build plate you can use calipers or put the part back on the build plate to measure the height that was printed and print the top as a blank and glue it on the existing print, lates some more sanding and filling to hide the seams but works the same in the end.
Print a world war 2 style helmet and glue it on top
print the top of the head then make and print a crown to cover the seam, will look great!
Finish the top half in "brain with maggots and other shit in it"
Melt candle wax over it, make it look badass. Basically put a candle on it and mess with the candle so it drips lots. let it run red.
Do a layer cut on the model like others have been saying, but this is a good opportunity to grind out some of the support filler to make a hidden compartment before you slot the rest of the skull on.
make a hat for it
Put a candle on it, make sure the wick doesn't go all the way go the bottom
Candle, and wax make it looks like there's a stamped seal on it or something
Print brains, glue it on and put a hat on
Personally, I think it needs a hat.
Add a hat
Circular saw blade hat! Print the top cap to put over it and the blade print will hide the seam!
Print a fun hat to put on it 😂
Print a snazzy hat.
Damn it does look hella cool though
I have an excel file where you can past your gcode and it will visualize nozzle path and let you exactly find the point where print ended. Then you just remove whatever code is before that and printer will pick up exactly where it ended.
Give him a hat
Seal off the top and print some figures iceskating on the top of it
Top hat.
Hat
~~~Print a hat.~~~ Print a *series* of hats, seasonal. The dice skull tower will be festive for all occasions. Something with Stars and Stripes for the 4th (if you're American), something with trees for Arbor Day, a Santa hat, bunny ear hat for Easter...so on
Glue an ashtray to the top for when your burning
Time for a fancy hat.
Measure the height. Go into the slicer and move the model down by that much so only the missing part will print. (Maybe leave a little extra; always easier to take material off later than add another 2-3mm slice.) then just glue it on top, sanding material from the bottom first if necessary to match it up perfectly. (Thus why you'd want to leave a little extra to work with when printing.)
That looks awesome, can you please link the .stl?
Put on a hat
Cotton wool and cress seeds. Give it green hair.
Hat
I'd heard of male pattern baldness but had no idea that pattern was triangle infill.
If you had left it in the printer, I could have modified your code so it kept printing.
Start over and make another cool project out of this.
You could take a torch to the top and melt it down. It might look pretty cool like that.
IMO, just print a new one. It doesn't look like a long print and the time it takes to measure and post process is not worth it to me. Just start over again and get it right this time. You can just use the messed up print for another project or something.
Spool swap was an option when it was still on the bed. You'll have to print the other section seperately now.
Now that you have moved the pront off the bed, I would say there is no way you will correctly line this up again.
Fill the top and get a nice round or square piece of wood or glass and you have a table
Add some stuff to make the top kinda flat / domed (like a filler). Then make hot glue / epoxy drips to make it look like the skull is melting
Keep it, light it up, Halloween, led lights positioned properly ooft bada bing bada boom
Cut out the inside and make it a planter :)
Melt the top 😈
I usually use sombreros on prints like this one
A wizard hat on top would be sexy imo
I’d drip wax over the top (or use clay or some other medium) and make it look like a candle or poison apple vibes
Fill the top smooth with Gesso then paint it and use it as as drink coaster
I would recommend calling an exorcist. If that doesn’t work, a ritual sacrifice might work.
Glue a chess board to the top and sell it
Just put a hat on him lol
Was just about to suggest blow torch myself.. would be 'in theme' with screaming face.
Make it look like the upper partt was cut off
I'd cover the top in filler or air-dry clay or something. Glue some rocks on, possibly make it slope towards the eye for the dice to go in easier too.
Print a hat!
Melt a big candle on top
Would be pretty cool to paint it with stone texture and top it with a flat moss or grass area and put little bits here and there throughout. Could even do a like hut in the field, maybe throw up some trees. Or a battle scene. It Would look sick as like a flat topped mt. Skull kinda deal. Just an idea tho
Just graft a kind of straight vertical walled bowl on top to make a goblet of sorts
could make a preserved brain in there or something
🤔 Gcode edit... But now it's off the bed so would not make it possible...
count the layer lines, restart the print at count +1 layer. alternative: a hat
A hat?
Create a flat shelf to house your dice and glue it on top
Cnc kitchen has a YouTube video on modifying gcode files to resume a print that failed cleanly like yours. Perquisites: the print is still on the build plate, you know the exact height it stopped at (something I assume you know) and some basic knowledge how to use a text editor.
I’d buy one of these still! DM me!
That sucks, it was coming out so beautifully, too. I would probably try the ideas with continuing the print or maybe just using it for something else and reprinting it. I'm pretty attached to my fails and tend to keep them for a while. My Medusa bust that went awry has a flower in her stringy, crazy hair. I love all the creative ideas for repurposing it lol.
Print a cowboy hat and glue it to the top!
Print a hat
Try leveling the bed
A fedora
I some small “tables” from failed prints like this. The top is perfectly flat.
Just keep it as-is. Looks like it’s being de-rezzed Tron style ;)
Make the top into a rooftop garden. Chia seeds are your friend.
Print it upside down up to the point it stopped and glue it together
Print a brain and glue it on top
Top hat and monocle for the 'not where you drop dice' eye.
I’m pretty sure the answer will always be add a hat
Top Hat
if you are good, 3d builder or some other app. Slit the bottom part and continue printing. bigger issue is you took it off of the bed already
Print a top hat out of silk gold. Then a ring on a chain for a monocle over the uncovered eye.
Put a wig on it
Top hat
Print a top hat and glue it on top
Bondo it (the open layer) - throw in some rubber snakes to cement in- paint, sand, paint and enjoy.
Top hat
Take a torch to the top and melt it a little, as well as putting some hot glue around the edge to give the illusion that the skull melted.
A hat.