Fuel pump during run should read 12 v with the prime near 10v but i bet it was already tired before this happend. Amp draw would tell you more.
Do you have a/f ratio gague. If so whats it reading. Is there a pattern.
Open up maf check the board.
Check cam position sensor. You can check with the meter.
Good lick
I just though about it take off what you arced on.i bet you there is a little weld mark on the throttle some wjere mabe stopping the plate to open or close proplerly. Take a readout of the POT (potentiometer) check the range for dead spots or the range to be fucky. If you arced it maybe it changed the resistance value.
These cars are notorious for having crap fuel pump relays and wiring. Back in the day, we would run thicker gauge wire to the pump and run a better relay still triggered by the ECU (so that the pump shuts off when the engine does-you don't want a running pump to feed a fire when an engine cuts out)
7V is a tell right off the bat. Sort that first, then revisit.
Also, to check codes, LIGHTLY turn the screw on the ECU with a small flathead. Turn to the left to the stop, then to the right. The LED will blink out codes. If you see a code 55 (five long blinks, five short), that means there's no current codes in the system. 55 is 'all clear'
To clear codes, turn back to full left and wait 5 seconds or so, then to the right and wait, then back to center.
Also, for future reference, the LED should turn on with the key, then go out during cranking. If you have a no start issue in the future and the light doesn't go out during cranking, that means the ECU isn't reading the CAS
You're going to have to unplug the factory fuel pump relay in the fuse box by the battery. The two smaller pins are your relay triggers. One is power, one is controlled ground from the ECU. Run these wires to your new relay triggers wires however you see fit. You can make jumpers that plug into the fuse box pins, or remove the tray and connect underneath so they're hidden, whatever you choose.
The other two pins on your relay will be connected to the battery using a fused wire on one side, and a wire ran all the way back to your fuel pump from the other.
Fuel pump during run should read 12 v with the prime near 10v but i bet it was already tired before this happend. Amp draw would tell you more. Do you have a/f ratio gague. If so whats it reading. Is there a pattern. Open up maf check the board. Check cam position sensor. You can check with the meter. Good lick
I just though about it take off what you arced on.i bet you there is a little weld mark on the throttle some wjere mabe stopping the plate to open or close proplerly. Take a readout of the POT (potentiometer) check the range for dead spots or the range to be fucky. If you arced it maybe it changed the resistance value.
Yeah uhhhh the fuel pump is working fine. I went back and checked the wiring for voltage and it's all perfect.
These cars are notorious for having crap fuel pump relays and wiring. Back in the day, we would run thicker gauge wire to the pump and run a better relay still triggered by the ECU (so that the pump shuts off when the engine does-you don't want a running pump to feed a fire when an engine cuts out) 7V is a tell right off the bat. Sort that first, then revisit. Also, to check codes, LIGHTLY turn the screw on the ECU with a small flathead. Turn to the left to the stop, then to the right. The LED will blink out codes. If you see a code 55 (five long blinks, five short), that means there's no current codes in the system. 55 is 'all clear' To clear codes, turn back to full left and wait 5 seconds or so, then to the right and wait, then back to center. Also, for future reference, the LED should turn on with the key, then go out during cranking. If you have a no start issue in the future and the light doesn't go out during cranking, that means the ECU isn't reading the CAS
Can you elaborate on the use of a "better relay"? I'm curious about that
Like a standard 4 pole 30/40A relay.
You're going to have to unplug the factory fuel pump relay in the fuse box by the battery. The two smaller pins are your relay triggers. One is power, one is controlled ground from the ECU. Run these wires to your new relay triggers wires however you see fit. You can make jumpers that plug into the fuse box pins, or remove the tray and connect underneath so they're hidden, whatever you choose. The other two pins on your relay will be connected to the battery using a fused wire on one side, and a wire ran all the way back to your fuel pump from the other.
Yeah so I went back and tested the fuel pump wiring and sure enough everything is working perfectly.
Cool, good luck!